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Einleitung

Verwende diese Anleitung, um die Mittelrahmen Einheit in deinem Samsung Galaxy S6 zu ersetzen. Die Mittelrahmen Einheit beinhaltet die Induktionsspule, Einschalt- und Lautstärketasten, Kameralinse und Lautsprecher.

Diese Anleitung erfordert den Ausbau der Rückglasabdeckung, das zerstört den Kleber, der sie befestigt. Benutze diese Anleitung, um sie wieder einzusetzen.

  1. Fahre mit einer Büroklammer oder einem SIM Karten Auswurfwerkzeug in das kleine Loch am SIM Karten Slot. Er befindet sich auf der gleichen Seite wie die Einschalttaste des Smartphones. Drücke, um das SIM Kartenfach auszuwerfen.
    • Fahre mit einer Büroklammer oder einem SIM Karten Auswurfwerkzeug in das kleine Loch am SIM Karten Slot. Er befindet sich auf der gleichen Seite wie die Einschalttaste des Smartphones.

    • Drücke, um das SIM Kartenfach auszuwerfen.

    • Drücke nicht zu fest, da du sonst unter Umständen das SIM Kartenfach beschädigst.

    It really needs to be stated at the outset that if doing this repair to replace the daughterboard, there is a high likelihood that the display will be destroyed (even if you don’t break the display, the foil backing on it will likely be destroyed rendering it unusable). The PDF version of this guide states this at the beginning, but this online version does not.

    David White - Antwort

  2. Entferne das SIM Kartenfach vom Smartphone.
    • Entferne das SIM Kartenfach vom Smartphone.

  3. Wir empfehlen die Mikrowelle vor dem Gebrauch zu reinigen, da sonst Essensreste oder Ähnliches am iOpener hängenbleiben können. Lege den iOpener in die Mitte der Mikrowelle.
    • Wir empfehlen die Mikrowelle vor dem Gebrauch zu reinigen, da sonst Essensreste oder Ähnliches am iOpener hängenbleiben können.

    • Lege den iOpener in die Mitte der Mikrowelle.

    • Für sich drehende Mikrowellen: Stelle sicher, dass der Teller sich drehen kann. Wenn der iOpener hängenbleibt kann er sich überhitzen und sogar Feuer fangen.

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - Antwort

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Antwort

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Antwort

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Antwort

    Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: https://youtu.be/16GkvjVyOJA It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.

    Fletcher Carpenter - Antwort

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Antwort

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Antwort

    Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.

    Esmond Pitt - Antwort

    Hi, the microware have multiple power 1 to 9, what must be used ?

    Regards,

    Cedric

    Cedric VINCENT - Antwort

    My microwave just died, can i heat it with boiled water?

    Alex COLOMBANI - Antwort

    Taping as shown is impractical when using hair dryer method—tape simply comes off in the heat and gets in way of getting out the shards on the sides. If the thing wasn’t shattered, then taping unnecessary.

    B. A. Computer Services - Antwort

  4. Erhitze den iOpener für dreißig Sekunden auf höchster Stufe.
    • Erhitze den iOpener für dreißig Sekunden auf höchster Stufe.

    • Während des Reperationsprozesses kühlt sich der iOpener wieder ab. Erhitze ihn dann noch einmal zusätzlich einmal für 30 Sekunden.

    • Achte darauf, den iOpener während der Reparatur nicht zu überhitzen. Eine Überhitzung bringt den iOpener möglicherweise zum Platzen.

    • Berühre niemals den iOpener, falls er dir geschwollen vorkommt.

    • Falls der iOpener in der Mitte immer noch zu heiß ist, um ihn anzufassen, dann benutze ihn weiter, bis er ein wenig herunter gekühlt ist, bevor du ihn erneut erhitzt. Ein ordnungsgemäß erhitzter iOpener sollte für bis zu 10 Minuten warm bleiben.

    May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

    yamayhuang - Antwort

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Antwort

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Antwort

    I don't own a microwave.

    mdanihy - Antwort

    Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

    Jon - Antwort

    I don't have a microwave???

    Joe Blow - Antwort

    30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

    Sam Stieg - Antwort

    can i use just ordinary microwave???

    juneseok kwon - Antwort

    If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

    Mohideen Rifay - Antwort

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Antwort

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Antwort

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Antwort

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Antwort

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Antwort

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - Antwort

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - Antwort

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - Antwort

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - Antwort

  5. Halte den iOpener an einem der flachen Enden und vermeide die heiße Mitte, während du ihn aus der Mikrowelle nimmst.
    • Halte den iOpener an einem der flachen Enden und vermeide die heiße Mitte, während du ihn aus der Mikrowelle nimmst.

    • Der Beutel wird sehr heiß, sei vorsichtig beim Gebrauch. Lege dir am besten einen Topflappen bereit.

    Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

    Me berg - Antwort

    Yes, as does a heat gun.

    anonymous 4602 - Antwort

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Antwort

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  7. Wenn du das  Smartphone öffnest, werden seine wasserfesten Dichtungen beschädigt. Halte Ersatzklebstoff bereit, bevor du zu repariren beginnst, oder vermeide es das Gerät beim Zusammenbau Feuchtigkeit auszusetzen, ohne den Klebstoff zu ersetzen. Falls das Glas gesplittert ist, fixiere das gesamte Panel mit Paketklebeband. So wird es zusammengehalten.
    • Wenn du das Smartphone öffnest, werden seine wasserfesten Dichtungen beschädigt. Halte Ersatzklebstoff bereit, bevor du zu repariren beginnst, oder vermeide es das Gerät beim Zusammenbau Feuchtigkeit auszusetzen, ohne den Klebstoff zu ersetzen.

    • Falls das Glas gesplittert ist, fixiere das gesamte Panel mit Paketklebeband. So wird es zusammengehalten.

    • Lege den erwärmten iOpener für etwa zwei Minuten über das ganze Panel, um den Kleber rund um den Rand des Glases zu lösen.

    • Wahrscheinlich musst du den iOpener mehrfach erwärmen und wieder auflegen, um das Smartphone heiß genug zu bekommen. Befolge die Anleitung für den iOpener, um Überhitzung zu vermeiden.

    • Verschiebe den iOpener, um den restlichen Bereich des Panels für weitere zwei Minuten zu erwärmen.

    • Du kannst auch einen Haartrockner, eine Heizplatte oder ein Heißluftgebläse benutzen. Sei aber vorsichtig und überhitze das Smartphone nicht. Das OLED Display und der Akku sind durch zu viel Wärme leicht zu beschädigen.

    are there any option out there that allows you to heat the adhesive outdoors without any power plug?

    Brotan Store - Antwort

    There's a star in the center of our solar system, you could try that.

    John Joiner -

    the way we do it at Get it fixed cellphone repair calgary is with a heat gun, wich is way easier than this, make sure to wear some gloves and dont worry to use to much heat as long as you point just to the back of the phone, (the back panel is thick enough to protect the logic board from over heat) instead of the usual blue plastic piece i sugest to use the thinnest metal razor knife and a business card so you can insert the business card and move it all around the frame, those blue plastic things are way too thick that will break the glass panel if you apply to much pressure

    get it fixed - Antwort

    After did that with my own heat pad, the white paint got ripped off but luckily glass back cover did not break. So I scratched all white part of the back cover and now its all transparent.

    Jae Chung - Antwort

    I used a purpose built heating device at 100 degree celsius. Lower temperatures didn't work.

    ken - Antwort

    I used a blow dryer, attached my multimeter heat sensor to the back to monitor the temperature. At 54 degrees Celsius I could separate the back with a suction cup from my phone without damaging the paint.

    LRD - Antwort

    I gave up on the hot bag after 4 heat and apply cycles. I was only getting the back up to 60c using an infrared thermometer. I switched to a harbor freight 1500w heat gun set to Low, moving constantly around the back, until the back read 95c. The back came off easily at that point.

    Nathan Wray - Antwort

    using a blowtorch on low heart for 3-5 seconds at close range also works

    Achi Namaratne - Antwort

    I found another site that said temps of 203F/95C were required to soften the glues. Once I started using those temps with my heat gun, as well as a tool I made by just cutting the flat front/back panel from a package of screws (any plastic package that has a flat panel will work) , I had the back off in no time. Had I continued to use the plastic pick shown in the instructions, I really doubt I would have gotten the back off since I couldn’t get enough force on the back from my suction cup. The thin package plastic acted almost like a knife as I moved it around the outside edge. WARNING: If you have to reheat the back, REMOVE THE PACKAGE PLASTIC!! It will start to melt from the heat of a heat gun. Good Luck!!

    morttormjch - Antwort

  8. Wenn die Glasscheibe so heiß  ist, dass du sie kaum anfassen kannst, kannst du einen Saugnapf nahe der Unterkante anbringen. Hebe den Saugnapf hoch, um einen kleinen Spalt unter dem rückseitigen Glas zu schaffen. Setze dort ein Plektrum ein. Wenn du willst, kannst du noch ein paar Tropfen Isopropylalkohol in den Spalt  einfließen lassen. Das schwächt den Kleber und hilft bei den folgenden Schritten.
    • Wenn die Glasscheibe so heiß ist, dass du sie kaum anfassen kannst, kannst du einen Saugnapf nahe der Unterkante anbringen.

    • Hebe den Saugnapf hoch, um einen kleinen Spalt unter dem rückseitigen Glas zu schaffen. Setze dort ein Plektrum ein.

    • Wenn du willst, kannst du noch ein paar Tropfen Isopropylalkohol in den Spalt einfließen lassen. Das schwächt den Kleber und hilft bei den folgenden Schritten.

    If the rear screen is cracked/smashed, you will not be able to use a suction cup to remove it. The suction could would not seal because of the cracks. I tried masking tape, 3M shiny HVAC tape, and others, and the suction could would not seal to those surfaces either.

    I ended up using the sharp point of the smudger to remove some shards of glass to get underneath the cover to leverage it up and out. Definitely use gloves and safety glasses if you have to do this.

    dougpender - Antwort

    Thank you for your comment. I needed to see this particular instance of what to do when the back cover was cracked. I was going to try to suction it with tape covering it. This saved me some heartache. You're an angel!!

    Jessie Brooks -

    Be careful during this step- reapply heat before attempting this one (battery issues tend to melt internal “areas” ) and this area is most prone to crack during the lifting of the back plate.

    Briannah - Antwort

  9. Fahre mit dem Plektrum entlang der Unterkante des Smartphones um den Kleber, der das rückseitige Glas festhält, aufzutrennen. Es ist dann hilfreich, wenn du danach das Plektrum an Ort und Stelle lässt und für den nächsten Schritt ein weiteres Plektrum benutzst. Wenn das Plektrum stecken bleibt verhindert es, dass sich der eben aufgetrentte Kleber wieder verbindet.
    • Fahre mit dem Plektrum entlang der Unterkante des Smartphones um den Kleber, der das rückseitige Glas festhält, aufzutrennen.

    • Es ist dann hilfreich, wenn du danach das Plektrum an Ort und Stelle lässt und für den nächsten Schritt ein weiteres Plektrum benutzst. Wenn das Plektrum stecken bleibt verhindert es, dass sich der eben aufgetrentte Kleber wieder verbindet.

    • Erwärme das rückseitige Glas immer wieder, um zu verhindern, dass der Klebstoff wieder erkaltet und fest wird.

  10. Wiederhole diese Prozedur des Erwärmens und Aufschneidens für die restlichen drei Seiten des Smartphones. Lasse ein Plektrum unter jeder Kante stecken, damit sich der Kleber nicht wieder verbinden kann. Lasse ein Plektrum unter jeder Kante stecken, damit sich der Kleber nicht wieder verbinden kann.
    • Wiederhole diese Prozedur des Erwärmens und Aufschneidens für die restlichen drei Seiten des Smartphones.

    • Lasse ein Plektrum unter jeder Kante stecken, damit sich der Kleber nicht wieder verbinden kann.

    At this stage I didn’t use a plastic pick as I think they are too thick and will crack a screen that’s not already cracked. I used a stainless steel

    I sesame blade which does a much better job of cutting through the adhesive. Just be careful not to insert it in too far. I sometimes put a mark on my blade to ensure it doesn’t go in too far.

    Wayne Lyell - Antwort

    I used a card like the ones people use to play poker or any card game with. Only one was needed to separate the back without any damage to the paint.

    LRD - Antwort

    Be sure to apply a decent amount of heat when removing the last bit of the rear glass, cracked the rear of my screen (only a small amount mind) trying too use too much force not enough heat for the last spot.

    spank2103 - Antwort

  11. Schneide mit einem Plektrum durch alle noch verbliebenen Kleberreste. Entferne das rückseitige Glas.
    • Schneide mit einem Plektrum durch alle noch verbliebenen Kleberreste.

    • Entferne das rückseitige Glas.

    The rear glass is very fragile. I cracked mine across the camera opening while cleaning off the old sealant. Next time ( I will have to order one and do it again…doh) I’ll place it on a flat surface while cleaning it.

    Greg Scott - Antwort

  12. Ziehe alle verbliebenen Kleberreste mit einer Pinzette von der Glasscheibe und vom Rahmen des Smartphones ab.
    • Ziehe alle verbliebenen Kleberreste mit einer Pinzette von der Glasscheibe und vom Rahmen des Smartphones ab.

    • Reinige dann die Klebeflächen mit hoch konzentriertem Isopropylalkohol (mindestens 90%) und einem fusselfreien Tuch. Wische nur in eine Richtung, nicht vor und zurück. Die Oberfläche wird so für den neuen Kleber vorbereitet.

    • Folge dieser Anleitung, um das Rückpanel wieder einzubauen.

    You should note that the adhesive strip may need to be fully removed from the frame in order to proceed with repairs. The adhesive on my phone covered all of the screws exposed in the next step.

    Sean Cruz - Antwort

    When I did my battery, the adhesive stayed almost 100% on the back glass and was still in good shape. What didn’t remain attached only lifted slightly and I was able to coax it back to its original location with tweezers. I didn’t bother to remove and replace the adhesive layer because mine was still good. I set the glass out of the way where it wouldn’t get dirt on the adhesive while I finished the battery swap. I added some additional heat (hair dryer) after reattaching the glass to make sure the adhesive made the best seal.

    Wayne Thomason - Antwort

  13. Entferne die dreizehn 3,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben #00, mit denen der Mittelrahmen am Smartphone befestigt ist.
    • Entferne die dreizehn 3,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben #00, mit denen der Mittelrahmen am Smartphone befestigt ist.

    Make sure you do not mix up these thirteen screws with a hidden 14th screw under the mid-frame chassis, on the left side of the headphone port, on daughter-board. This 14th screw is shorter than the other screws, so make sure you do not replace it with one of the longer screws. It will push up against the front glass and lift it away from the adhesive.

    David Whyte - Antwort

  14. Fasse die Kante der Mittelrahmen Einheit und halte sie gut fest. Hebe die Mittelrahmen Einheit an, während du den Akku nach unten drückst, um die Mittelrahmen Einheit vom Rest des Smartphones zu trennen. Achte darauf, dass der Mittelrahmen sich nicht an der Kopfhörerbuchse oder der Ladebuchse verhakt, während du ihn anhebst.
    • Fasse die Kante der Mittelrahmen Einheit und halte sie gut fest.

    • Hebe die Mittelrahmen Einheit an, während du den Akku nach unten drückst, um die Mittelrahmen Einheit vom Rest des Smartphones zu trennen.

    • Achte darauf, dass der Mittelrahmen sich nicht an der Kopfhörerbuchse oder der Ladebuchse verhakt, während du ihn anhebst.

    • Du musst unter Umständen die Kanten des Displays erhitzen und einen iOpener verwenden, um den Kleber am Display zu lösen, falls der Mittelrahmen sich nur schwer abtrennen läßt.

    FIRMLY GRASP IT! - Patrick

    Armen Orbelyan - Antwort

    Bei diesem Schritt sicher sein, dass SIM Card Fach entfernt ist!

    zikal - Antwort

    I found the glue still very sticky here, i had to go around with my picks to free it, its very stuck with a UK version, beware!!

    databeat1 - Antwort

    I damaged my screen here a bit, be careful not too slide your pick between the digitizer and the screen.

    Anton -

    i suggest to apply heat on the corners of the front screen to lose the adhesive a lil bit and push from the bottom back of the phone right where the wireless charger is because of the charging port

    get it fixed - Antwort

    When grabbing from the bottom, you fun the risk of damaging the charging port and headphone jack. I would suggest starting from the top. This is because the two ports at the bottom slide down into the frame. There is also adhesive that will give you a little resistance.

    Alex Philip - Antwort

    Step 18 is not correct, you have to start from the top. You can damage the charge port

    Daniel Yaben - Antwort

    On mine the adhesive actually tore away part of the colored film on the back of the screen glass rather than separating from it. I’m guessing applying heat to the screen corners first would help avoid this (I didn’t). https://imgur.com/a/V7vZQ

    Brian Hardie - Antwort

  15. Hebe die Mittelrahmen Einheit nach oben hin weg, um sie vom Rest des Smartphones zu trennen.
    • Hebe die Mittelrahmen Einheit nach oben hin weg, um sie vom Rest des Smartphones zu trennen.

    what do the numbers ZF-N2 AS WELL AS (F13) AT THE END OF THE MODEL NUMBER, THEN THERE IS REV 5-1-C W G 15221............... WHAT ALL HAS TO MATCH WHEN REPLACING THE MID FRAME.

    mike gentry - Antwort

    Achtung! Bei meiner Reperatur, besonders bei Schritt 14, Auf gar keinen Fall versuchen den Kleber mit einem der Plektren zu lösen. Dort kann man schnell zwischen Displayrahmen und Glas rutschen und so das Display beschädigen!!!

    TheECanyon - Antwort

    Once I got the back off I spotted my issue, This was a tough phone. 5 years of service in the marine industry. I spotted corrosion as I was unplugging. so I continued the battery had so much adhesive , you know the rest.

    digitize r! It had drowned at least four times, was still working but had to be on the charger unless it was in safe mode. So good luck !

    There are more symptoms for others to decide . I like this place reminds me as as a kid in the sixties, lol

    Gerald - Antwort

Abschluss

Arbeite die Schritte in umgekehrter Reihenfolge ab, um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen.

Zum Einbau der Rückglasabdeckung, folge dieser Anleitung.

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Dante Mazzanti

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Step 18

Is it really that "simple" to separate the midframe from the front of the phone? In most videos (even the one on ifixit) a suction cup is used (after warming the front) with some prying tools.

So, does Step 18 really work?

It appears that the front is hold together by only 4 adhesives in the corners. Are this damaged during the front removal process? (is there a replacement kit?)

Just another question, I damaged the heart sensor plastic cover, is it possible to buy just that part or do I need to buy a complete midframe?

paulo - Antwort

Can this step be exactly with a simple push as stated? Other sources required focusing heat on the 4 corners and run through with a pick....?

Secondly, how can one avoid damaging the lamination under the glass while removing it or trying to get the first foothold with the pick. Most guides I have seen appear to skip this step.

ahmad - Antwort

I have seen one phone parts site (EtradeSupply) list all different variants of the mid housing (G920F, G920V, G920R etc). But another site (WitRigs) has just one, as if they aren't specific.

Does anyone know? Because i'm in Australia and can't find G920i variant.

Also, has anyone simply swapped over the antennas, and crimped them onto the new housing?

Joshua Rayner - Antwort

Ok Guys I am definitely !#^&@@ off right now.... but to the point.

Please Edit to this guide --> @Step 18:

First of all: Heat the for corners with your iOpener to lose the adhesive which sits in the corners.

Be very very gentle when you push down on the battery and try to put a little pressure onto or maybe into the headphone jack when you first encounter that the display gets lose, because the headphone-jack fits very well in the frame and holds on a little corner.

Only go around the whole display with a spudger when the adhesive is really warm to lose it when it doesn't come out as easy as you thought. Because otherwise you may face that the display to display-glass laminate gets damaged. That just happened to me at the upper display side... so to get a perfect new looking phone I have to replace that as well....EXPENSIVE :(

Hope this may help you guys.

but ... nevertheless ... thank you guys from IFixit for your continous effort to help people repairing there stuff - heads up :-)

jakob - Antwort

Hi Jakob, thanks for your input! When writing this guide we used a device that had been previously disassembled, so our experience may have been different from yours. Just to be clear: you have an issue with step 18 because the adhesive between the midframe and front assembly is very strong and simply pushing the battery is not adequate? Are there other steps that need to be adjusted?

And, as a general note, you can edit this guide yourself! When you hover your cursor over any particular step, an "Edit" button will appear. Alternatively, you can scroll to the top of the page and click the "Edit" tab up there.

Evan Noronha -

I added some details from the comments into step 18.

Mordecai Veldt - Antwort

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