Einleitung
Hier wird der Austausch der Ladebuchse gezeigt.
Was du brauchst
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Lege das Gerät mit der Vorderseite zu dir.
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Fange an einer der abgerundeten Ecken an. (Vergleiche mit Bild 2).
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Setze ein Plastiköffnungswerkzeug zwischen Vorderteil und Rückteil.
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Wenn du das Werkzeug einsetzen konntest, dann schiebe es rings um das Gerät, um die Teile zu trennen.
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Hebe den Rückdeckel vom Gerät weg.
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Entferne den Klebestreifen und klappe den Sicherungsbügel am ZIF Verbinder des Akkus hoch.
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Schiebe das orangene Flachbandkabel zum Akku aus dem ZIF-Verbinder heraus.
BEWARE!!! later on Samsung tablets the tab holding the main cable (marked “MAIN”) breaks as soon as you attempt to lift the tab to remove the ribbon! I reckon Samsung designed this breakabloe tab to not only avoid the warranty, but the render the tablet useless!
Happened to me also, in order to replace that broken tab, do you think it will be necessary to replace the motherboard? I highly doubt we can find the parts to fix (replace) the flip-tab.
LOOK what I found!!! its the replacement for the connector we broke!!!https://www.parts4repair.com/samsung-gal...
i just wonder how u gonna solder this tiny thingie
I wish I had read this thread before I removed the cable and broke the connector. Unfortunately I have not been able to reattach the cable and my tablet is dead.
If there is no way to remove this cable, why is this fix even posted here? I find this exceptionally uncool!
Whoever broke the connector was trying to open it the wrong way. I have oil spilled in mine after I replaced my screen and digitizer together if you only replace the screen it is more difficult. I say changing both together is simpler. And I will share a pic either way I just might mess up MY connector. To be continued
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Entferne den Klebestreifen, hebe den Sicherungsbügel hoch und ziehe das weiße Flachbandkabel zum Lautsprecher heraus.
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Hebe den Sicherungsbügel hoch und ziehe das schwarze Flachbandkabel zum LCD heraus.
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Der Akku ist mit zehn 4 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben #000 gesichert. Drehe sie heraus.
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Schiebe ein Plastiköffnungswerkzeug unter den Akku in der Nähe der Lautsprecher und hebe ihn hoch.
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Klappe die Sicherungsbügel an den beiden ZIF Verbindern auf der Hauptplatine mit einem Plastiköffnungswerkzeug hoch.
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Schiebe die beiden orangenen Flachbandkabel aus den Verbindern heraus.
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Entferne die Frontkamera.
This step omits the disconnection of the battery from the motherboard , which is shown disconnected in this picture but was connected in the previous step
Thanks for bringing this to our attention. We added the relevant battery disconnection steps—hope this helps!
If the model you are working on is the T585 you will need to carefully pry up the blue antennae cable and disconnect the sim card slot from the motherboard.
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Trenne die Kopfhörerbuchse von der Hauptplatine ab.
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Entferne sechs 4 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben #000.
die ganze Platine musste ich gar nicht ausbauen. Ich konnte die Kopfhörerbuchse vorsichtig mit einem kleinen flachen Schrubendreher lösen.
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Setze das Plastiköffnungswerkzeug unter die Hauptplatine und hebe sie aus dem Tablet.
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Entferne die Metallhalterung unter der Ladebuchse und lege sie zur Seite.
I have tab a charging and show on screen but not starting at all motherboard water damage I clean all there any way make it start by motherboard with out power button
TIP: Before next step (or sooner), cover cracked/broken glass with transparent tape to avoid (I didn't) or minimize small shards of glass falling into work area and onto your clothing.
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Lege Entlötlitze auf eine der vier Lötstellen am oberen Ende der Hauptplatine.
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Setze den Lötkolben auf die Entlötlitze und entlöte so die Lötstelle. Wenn du unsicher bist hilft dir diese Anleitung .
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Wenn es dir schwer fällt die Ladebuchse zu entlöten, dann erhitze die ganze Platine mit einem Heißluftgebläse. Unter der Ladebuchse befinden sich kleine rechteckige Kontakte, die beim Erhitzen verrutschen können. Sie müssen wieder an die gleiche Stelle zurück.
Please be sure not to hold the soldering iron by the hot end as shown in the picture
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Wiederhole für die anderen drei Lötstellen.
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Hebe das kleine graue Metallstück aus dem Gerät.
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Um dein Gerät wieder zusammen zu setzen musst du ein neues Metallstück dort einsetzen, wo das alte war, und an der Hauptplatine in den vier Löchern auf der Rückseite der Hauptplatine festlöten.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammen zu setzen musst du ein neues Metallstück dort einsetzen, wo das alte war, und an der Hauptplatine in den vier Löchern auf der Rückseite der Hauptplatine festlöten.
Rückgängig: Ich habe diese Anleitung nicht absolviert.
15 weitere Nutzer:innen haben diese Anleitung absolviert.
Besonderer Dank geht an diese Übersetzer:innen:
100%
VauWeh hilft uns, die Welt in Ordnung zu bringen! Wie kann ich mithelfen?
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Team
Cal Poly, Team S15-G6, Livingston Fall 2017 Mitglied von Cal Poly, Team S15-G6, Livingston Fall 2017
CPSU-LIVINGSTON-F17S15G6
4 Mitglieder
26 Anleitungen geschrieben
13 Kommentare
It is impossible to unmount the old damaged USB-Interface this way. Beside the four solder-points ist is also soldered to 5 extremely small points on the motherboards opposite side. These are SMD-mounted contacts and in my case trying to unsolder them damaged the motherbords layout.
I was able to desolder it with a hot air rework station + soldering iron without damaging the pcb then using a wick cut at an angle + the heat gun to clean the mounting holes you must clean then fully so the new part will mount flush.
Also take care with resoldering the new connector not to bridge the pins on the usb port.
what is the model of USB connector here? I would like to buy in advance before opening
These instructions are really incomplete. In addition to the 4 through-hole points mentioned, there are also 2 large ground pads under the connector, and 7 tiny surface-mount pins on the back. Removing this port pretty much requires low-temp (chip-quick) solder or a hot-air rework station. Soldering it back on with only an iron proved quite difficult - hot-air rework station highly recommended. This took me about an hour, and I’ve been soldering (hobby mostly) for the better part of 30 years.
Also, there’s no reason to remove the battery to change the charging port. The motherboard can be removed without removing the battery. And really, the cameras should be disconnected too, rather than leaving them dangling by their ribbon cables.
Please tell us what region you’re in and someone might be able to help with a relevant suggestion.
Sucessfully completed. More Flex cables to disconnect, but thats straightforward. Replacement part from ebay. Unsolder and soldering are complicated even with professionell hot air station, microscope etc. But now it works
Just a quick question. Does the USB port have to be fully removed? If the unit is not charging isn’t it more likely that one of the solder connections is simply broken?
Cheers,
A
What type of solder should be used to re-affix the new charging port?
Lead-free solder paste. Small amounts are sold in syringes, eBay is a good source
The circuit board will need some heat prior to using a hot-air solder station. You will need to remove both cameras before subjecting to a pre-heat. Pre-heat to between 150 and 200c then apply enough heat to reflow the solder joints. A pair of tweezers will help remove the old USB socket. Once removed desolder the throu-holes and clean the surface mount pads. Apply small amounts of solder paste on the solder pads and fill the trou-holes, before placing the new USB socket . The PCB will need pre-heating again before finally using the hot-air solder gun to flow the solder joints. Check SMD pads and throu-holes have all flowed properly.
Chris Halliwell knows what they are doing. If you don't have a hot air station, decent soldering station and surface mount soldering experience plus the sundries ie solder paste, good tweezers, good lighting, magnify glass as a minimum then don't even try.
Surface Mount soldering around temperature sensitive components is a risky game unless you are aware of the processes involved. Even then it only takes a few extra degrees in temperature to melt and fry surrounding part's.
This i see is not for the faint of heart.
AWESOME!! I was trying to open it from the “NOT OK” place and you saved me to broken the screen… thanks!!
David Leiva - Antwort
No problem, enjoy.
Roger L. Ortiz -
Felt it was easier for me to do it from the middles out.
Tanin Garcia - Antwort
@rogerlortiz You two seem to be miscommunicating. The author points out the location between the digitizer and frame in which to place a tool. While @Tanin Garcia, whom no longer seems to be member, was pointing out where along the edge from corner to corner it was best to start the separating process.
B. A. Computer Services -
Important: the display is sourrounded with a plastic frame. You need to get beween this frame an the backcover (not directly at glass edge as I tried it first and almost broke the glass). Get a closeup picture of it to clarify.
Oliver Dawid - Antwort
wer lesen kann, ist klar im Vorteil - ich hab die SD-Karte drin gelassen. Hat aber funktioniert…
Thomas Wolter - Antwort
Don’t use a very small flathead screwdriver as a spudger. Just shattered the screen :(
nikvoss - Antwort
Yes, shattered the screen. To the garbage, it goes. A little knowledge is a dangerous thing. This a repair better suited for a professional repair! Thanks for helping me make the decision to get another one!
vancega - Antwort