Einleitung
So gehst du vor:
- Öffne die Time Capsule
- Löse die Kabel des Netzteils und entferne es.
- Installiere ein neues Netzteil für das defekte alte. Oder das Alte, weil du das nur zum Vergnügen machst..
Was du brauchst
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Um die Time Capsule zu öffnen, muss als erstes die Gummifläche entfernt werden, unter der sich die Schrauben verbergen.
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Benutze eine Heißluftpistole oder einen Haartrockner, um den Boden zu erwärmen; dies weicht den Klebstoff unter der Gummiabdeckung etwas an.
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Beginne an einer Ecke vorsichtig den Boden anzuheben. Benutze einen Plastikheber oder Ähnliches, um das Gummi vom Metall zu trennen.
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Sobald der Gummiboden entfernt ist, können die acht PH0 Schrauben ausgedreht werden, die den Metallboden festhalten.
Instead of removing the rubber floor, I cut windows in the rubber base at the designated places and dug them out. To do this, I had rectified the photo and printed it out as a square with an edge length of 19.8 cm and used it as a stencil.
Statt den Gummiboden zu entfernen, habe ich an den bezeichneten Stellen Fenster in die Gummiplatte geschnitten und ausgehoben. Dazu hatte ich das Foto entzerrt und als Quadrat mit der Kantenlänge 19,8 cm ausgedruckt und als Schablone benutzt.
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Hebe die linke Seite der Metallplatte an und kippe sie über die rechte Seite.
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Da vielen Leuten beim Lösen des Steckers der Stecker kaputtgeht, ist es nicht zu empfehlen, ihn zu lösen! Sei sehr vorsichtig mit ihm, er ist sehr empfindlich. Wenn du ihn wirklich lösen musst, löse ihn SEHR vorsichtig mit einem Spudger oder einer Pinzette.
I'd destroyed the connection between my fan and logic board by trying to remove the fan. This is a bigger problem than a broken hard drive. DO NOT TRY TO DISCONNECT THE FAN. Instead be careful with the base (making sure not to stretch the fan wire) as your proceed to step four.
I wish I had read the comments too!! DO NOT try to disconnect the fan!!!! The connector broke off with out a lot of force. Now I have a worthless piece of metal and plastic!!!!
This is not my guide, but in order to try to prevent future damage, I've edited the guide to warn against disconnecting the fan from the logic board. Hopefully the update will be approved soon :0\
Jeff G -
I had no issues removing the fan plug from the board.
It seems to me that the fan on the lid is not installed correctly. The air intake is blocked by a lid. The exhaust rests against the hard drive. It is more logical to turn the fan over, then the air intake will open, and the air flow will be along the components of the motherboard
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Im blauen Rahmen ist das Netzteil zu sehen.
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Ziehe den Stecker, der zum Netz führt senkrecht heraus.
should read "remove the AC plug" -- it's not a DC plug (as that's what the mains lead plugs into :)
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Mit einem Spudger kann man das Kabel lösen, welches die Hauptplatine versorgt. Eine kleine Verriegelung hält den Stecker fest, entriegele das, bevor du den Stecker ziehst.
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Mit dem Spudger kannst du auch das HDD Kabel lösen.
When I did this with a version 1 TC, I found it easier to pull out the SATA plug first to move it out the way, then squeeze the clip on the motherboard power connector while pulling it up (with the other hand). I have fat fingers, but this way worked for me.
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Hebe das Netzteil aus seinen Befestigungen.
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Die Befestigungen können ein bisschen mit der Hauptplatine hakeln. Mit etwas Fummelei kriegst du das heraus.
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Um dein Gerät wieder zusammen zu setzen folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammen zu setzen folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
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13 Kommentare
Hi there,
thanks a lot for this topic,
I have no problems getting there to change the power supply, my only concern is where can i find a replacement power supply?
thanks
Hi there,
if you like me want the cheapest repair for your time capsule, it is possible to repair the power supply for as less as 2$
The power supply has electrolytic condensers. they age: the electrolyte evaporates, or the leads corrode. you can solder them out and replace them. mine died after 6 years because the 39uF 400volt, the long ones kicked the bucket. i replaced them for 5euro each and my unit is back online
Wilfried - is there a way to know which capacitors are dead/need to be replaced? It looks like you had to replace: "39uF 400volt, the long ones", and Jorcorand had to replace "2 x 1500 uF capacitors". Are they the same or different? Are there more to choose from? What's the best way to identify the dead ones?
Joshua -
Thanks, I recently moved to a new house, and of course reinstalled my old TC (model A1355). When I plugged it in, nothing, no light. Following the above instructions, I removed the rubber-foot and plugged it in again. The TC worked again. A few days later, with the TC unpowered for two days, when powered, no light, the TC did not work. Heated the base of the unit again with a hairdryer a bit, plugged it in, all was working fine again.
This was a very helpful set of instructions. My A1302 is up and running again! Thanks!
I simply removed and checked all the capacitors. Different brands were used: Rubycon, Samson, Koshin and Su’scon. I simply used the capacitance checker on my multimeter. Only the Su’scon capacitor’s capacitance appeared to be about 50% below spec! In fact, very much in line with the quality ranking published on good’ol Tom’s Hardware (https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/pow...). Eventually replaced all capacitors for which I could buy a replacement at the local electronic components store; a bike ride distance. The 47uF’s (C3 and C4) were the only ones for which I couldn’t find a replacement so quickly; they were still within spec, so I placed them back.
After replacement of the other capacitors, I added the (repaired) power-unit cover and the machine became alive again.
Great Guide :).
My Power supply is broken. Question: It’s a 614-0464 (12 V - 1 A / 5.1 V - 4.3A). Is it possible to use a 614-0440 (12 V - 1.2 A / 5.1 V - 3.8 A)? We have 220/230 V.
Thanks for help,
Dikki
Slowly start peeling at one corner... worked better than shown on the pictures.
Markus - Antwort
Slow down particularly near the bottom label where it is stiffer. Either that or I needed to give it more heat. Going too fast can risk tearing the rubber base if the adhesive is strong.
ElvinC - Antwort
If you are wondering if the Time Capsule will still work as a router if you remove the HDD and leave it out, the answer (according to another webpage I read) is YES, it will still work. Apparently, you get a warning with the AIrPort Utility about a missing HDD, but it still works. I wanted to keep and reuse the 1TB Hitachi HDD for offsite data backup.
CraigH - Antwort
Use an iron instead of a heating gun or hairdryer!
Gradually raise the temperature while checking for separation, while moving over the rubber. I first cleaned the rubber with some soap, to avoid scorching dust or grease. The setting for synthetic fabrics seemed to do the job with my Tefal iron; probably a little over 100 degrees centigrade. No steam off course!
Worked like a charm without leaving almost any residual glue.
Sticking the rubber sole back after the repair was also successful.
Frits de Bruijn - Antwort
Thanks for sharing this.
kenatkenichikato - Antwort
Adhesive tape used is Nitto No. 5015. I found a piece of a back-paper left underneath the rubber…
vesa - Antwort
Is there a possibility to change an already changed 2TB SATA to a bigger one? Mine is full. because I added another MacBook Pro, but I’d rather not buy a newer TimeCapsule
Bette Rose - Antwort
I have a heater plate from my beer fermenting days. Sat the router on this rubber side down for an hour or so and the rubber came off easily and cleanly. A pet bed heater may work just as nicely.
publiclee - Antwort