Follow the teardown instructions for the Afterglow Prismatic controller.
Using a voltmeter, check continuity from the gold contacts to the right of the USB connector. In the view in the image below, the order from left to right is:
Pin 1 = V or VCC Red wire
Pin 2 = D- or DATA -1 White wire
Pin 3 = D+ or DATA +1 Green wire
Pin 4 = G or GND1 Black wire
Pin 5 = Shield1 (also ground)
Check each gold contact with it's corresponding pin on the front of the connector as well as the remaining 4 pins to make sure that contact isn't crossed or shorted with another pin in the connector. The G and Shield1 should be the only 2 that have continuity with each other. This is why there isn't a gold contact on the board for the Shield1 pin #5.
I suspect that the solder or trace on the board for Pin 1 is either getting broken or shorted to metal on the connector, since the trace runs underneath the connector and wiggling the plug would cause the controller to intermittently turn on.
If it looks like the solder on the backside of the connector is broken, just use a heat gun to melt the solder back together. Then check continuity again to confirm the repair.
I recommend using a heat gun to remove the connector without damaging the board if the connector is bad. The female micro USB B connectors are oddball, but I found a 10 pack for pretty cheap on Amazon. This connector seems to be oriented upside down.
Before reassembling the controller, plug in a micro USB cord to the female connector on the board and check continuity again from the gold contacts on the board to the other end of the cord. If everything is good you know your board and cord are good. If you have continuity from the board to the pins inside the connector, but no continuity from the board to the other end of the cord, then your cord is bad.
Teardown, troubleshoot, and repair of the micro USB port on a Xbox one afterglow prismatic wired controller.