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  1. , Zugangsklappe: Schritt 1, Bild 1 von 2 , Zugangsklappe: Schritt 1, Bild 2 von 2
    • Löse die beiden unverlierbaren Kreuzschlitzschrauben, mit deinen die Zugangsklappe am iMac befestigt ist..

    • Entferne die Zugangsklappe zum iMac.

    • Bevor du mit der Reparatur beginnst, ziehe den Netzstecker des iMac und drücke den Ein-/Aus-Schalter für 20-30 Sekunden, um die internen Kondensatoren zu entladen.

    That is a really, really unnecessarily complex way of fitting a new hard drive. Thanks, but no thanks...

    annax - Antwort

    Zitat von annax:

    That is a really, really unnecessarily complex way of fitting a new hard drive. Thanks, but no thanks...

    annax, if you can suggest a simpler way we're all ears!

    Jake Simmonds - Antwort

    I found this guide to be very useful. The installation was super easy, especially since I've never opened my iMac before. I was able to skip steps 6, 7, 9, 10 and 14. Wish I had one of those long skinny magnetic torx screwdriver's though. I had to use duct tape to hold the screws on the end of the bit for step 12.

    I used this opportunity to vacuum out the dust with mini attachments. Much needed after 3 years ;0)

    Awesome site!!! Thanks for sharing your knowledge and saving me time and $$$!

    Eric Patten - Antwort

    Yes I did it! thanks for this very good manual

    Philippe d Anfray - Antwort

  2. , Frontblende: Schritt 2, Bild 1 von 1
    • Entferne die folgenden vier Schrauben:

    • Drei 6 mm T8 Torx.

    • Eine 8 mm T8 Torx.

    T8's on the MA590LL 17" iMac.

    Endareth - Antwort

    8mm screw is 2nd from left - useful when reassembly

    Stefano Speriani - Antwort

  3. : Schritt 3, Bild 1 von 2 : Schritt 3, Bild 2 von 2
    • Drehe den iMac um und lege ihn mit der Standseite nach unten auf eine ebene Fläche.

    • Um die vordere Blende vom iMac abzuheben, führe die folgenden Schritte gleichzeitig durch:

    • Verwende deinen Daumen, um die RAM-Arme einzudrücken und den iMac festzuhalten.

    • Benutze deinen Zeigefinger, um die kleine Brücke an der vorderen Blende zu dir hin zu ziehen.

    • Hebe die vordere Blende mit den Zeigefingern an.

    • Sobald die kleine Materialbrücke die RAM-Arme passiert hat, hebe die vordere Blende an ihrer unteren Kante gerade genug an, um die untere Kante des hinteren Gehäuses zu überwinden.

  4. : Schritt 4, Bild 1 von 3 : Schritt 4, Bild 2 von 3 : Schritt 4, Bild 3 von 3
    • Richte deinen iMac so aus, dass er aufrecht auf dem Fuss steht.

    • Führe eine Plastikkarte in die Ecke des Belüftungsschlitzes in der Nähe der Oberseite des hinteren Gehäuses ein.

    • Schiebe die Karte in Richtung Oberseite des iMacs, um die Verriegelung der Frontblende zu lösen.

    • Ziehe die Frontblende vom restlichen Gehäuse weg.

    • Wiederhole diesen Vorgang für die andere Seite der Frontblende.

    • Eventuell ist es nötig mehrere Schichten Klebeband auf der Oberseite der Plastikkarte aufzubringen, um das Lösen der Verriegelungen zu ermöglichen.

    • Sollte sich die Blende nicht lösen lassen, drücke die untere Kante wieder auf das hintere Gehäuse und wiederhole den Vorgang mit der Plastikkarte.

    Apple uses a powerful magnet to release these latches, but the official tool is not available. If you have access to a few failed hard drives, you can take out the magnets from those, and stack them up to have a magnet strong enough to easily open these latches.

    Simply place the magnet on an upper corner of the machine, and when you hear a click, gently pull the corner of the front case forward. Repeat the process for the other upper corner. Use care not to pull on the iSight cables.

    Note: Use care when handling the hard drive magnets, they are powerful, and you don't want them to snap together on your fingers. OUCH!

    Zaphod - Antwort

    You can use a credit card. Mine survived, though it did get a little bent.

    David Bendory - Antwort

    I used two credit cards for extra thickness and the latches released very easily.

    James French - Antwort

    The magnetic latches are about 2-3 cm from the left and right edges right at the top edge of the case. I just ran a rare-earth magnet over the from of the bezel in this area. You can hear it click when it disengages. RadioShack has these kind of magnets for $3, the call them "super magnets".

    James - Antwort

    This was a nuisance. Had to really move the card around to get it to finally release.

    Tim Dougherty - Antwort

    Be very careful not to damage the metal clips with a credit card. My iMac was very stubborn and I ended up bending the clips in a way they cannot be bent back. The clips do still work and the front bezel does still go back on, however it no longer sits flush with the back of the iMac.

    Gary Lefebvre - Antwort

    The double credit card worked for me. Have to be persistent. It's a very light latch, no force needed or anything, or any click when it releases.

    Julian Wood - Antwort

  5. : Schritt 5, Bild 1 von 1
    • Lege deinen iMac mit der Standfläche nach unten auf einen Tisch.

    • Hebe die Frontblende von der unteren Kante an und drehe die Blende vom Rest des iMac weg, wobei du auf die RAM-Hebel achten mußt, die sich verfangen könnten.

    • Lege die Frontblende über den Rest des iMac.

    I found that it is much easier if you remove the top of the case first, then lay computer back on the stand & remove the bottom as directed.

    G A Long - Antwort

  6. : Schritt 6, Bild 1 von 1
    • Wenn nötig, entferne das gelbe Kapton Klebeband (es ist ok es dann wegzuwerfen), welches um die Mikrofon- und Kamerakabel gewickelt ist.

    I was able to skip Steps 6 & 7 entirely. The microphone and camera cables had enough slack to flip the front cover off and lie it flat above the rest of the computer.

    Carly Hobeef - Antwort

    Step 4 is completely unnessecary. Just lift the bezel up and wiggle it until the metal clips let go. Then lift the bezel straight up.

    Cloudsurfer - Antwort

  7. : Schritt 7, Bild 1 von 2 : Schritt 7, Bild 2 von 2
    • Trenne die Kamera- und Mikrofon-Steckverbindungen.

    Make sure the white wire is on the same side of both parts of the connector before reconnecting.

    It is possible to reconnect the microphone cable in the wrong/reversed orientation with the connector. The microphone will still work but will be muted and result in a "tinny" sound on the receiver's end.

    creecher - Antwort

    Can anyone ID these connectors (at least the camera connector) so that I may make an extension (to move the camera out and re-house it myself). I probably have the gear to do the mic already.

    Is the camera connector some standard I can order M & F versions online to terminate to an extension cable?

    hutchwilco - Antwort

  8. Dieser Schritt ist noch nicht übersetzt. Hilf mit, ihn zu übersetzen!

    : Schritt 8, Bild 1 von 1
    • Peel up the lower EMI shield from the rear case.

    • It is only necessary to peel the shield up from three sides. Leave it attached to the display.

    • We have found it helpful to tape the EMI shield against the display to keep it out of the way.

  9. Dieser Schritt ist noch nicht übersetzt. Hilf mit, ihn zu übersetzen!

    : Schritt 9, Bild 1 von 2 : Schritt 9, Bild 2 von 2
    • Remove the two 4.8 mm T6 Torx screws securing the display data cable to the logic board.

    • Grab the display data cable connector by its black tab and pull it straight up off the logic board.

  10. Dieser Schritt ist noch nicht übersetzt. Hilf mit, ihn zu übersetzen!

    : Schritt 10, Bild 1 von 1
    • Inverter cable on 24inch iMac pulls off to the left.

    • Pull the inverter cable connector straight up off its socket on the logic board.

    The inverter connector had a different location for me. It was situated next to the top left corner of the right speaker, just under the display. I didn't figure this out until I actually lifted the display off the computer.

    Cloudsurfer - Antwort

    My 17" iMac also has the inverter cable. It located in the upper right just below the display.

    Clinton - Antwort

    I couldnt get this cable off, so I skipped this step. If you have this problem, just proceed; when you get to step 13, lift the display carefully as this cable will still be attached. You'll now easily be able to grip the connector and remove it.

    David Bendory - Antwort

  11. Dieser Schritt ist noch nicht übersetzt. Hilf mit, ihn zu übersetzen!

    : Schritt 11, Bild 1 von 1
    • Peel back the aluminum EMI tape from the two vertical edges of the display.

    • During reassembly, it is helpful to use several small strips of tape to hold the EMI shielding along the left and right edges of the display footprint out of the way before lowering the display into the rear case of your iMac.

    Only peel back the black EMI tape that overlaps the edge of the display, not the silver tape on the display itself.

    Odesseus - Antwort

    The above note sounds as if one should peel the aluminum-foil colored tape back from the frame. Do NOT do this; instead, peel the BLACK-colored aluminum tape back from the display frame to reveal the crevice between the display and the case and the mounting screws you are about to remove.

    Valdaquende - Antwort

    I didn't actually need to peel anything at all. The screws would have been visible had I looked more carefully.

    David Bendory - Antwort

  12. Dieser Schritt ist noch nicht übersetzt. Hilf mit, ihn zu übersetzen!

    : Schritt 12, Bild 1 von 2 : Schritt 12, Bild 2 von 2
    In diesem Schritt verwendetes Werkzeug:
    TR10 Torx Security Screwdriver
    $5.99
    Kaufen
    • Allow the EMI shield to hang down from the display.

    • Remove the four 8 mm with 2 mm thick head coarse-thread T10 Torx screws securing the display to the rear case.

    • These screws are recessed, so a thin screwdriver such as this is essential for removal. Bit drivers tend to be too short for this application.

    • It is strongly recommended to use a magnetized screwdriver so the screws won't fall into the iMac.

    To put the T10 screws back, you'll need a magnetic head T10 screwdriver or a long, tweezer-like device found in a good set of computer tools. The screws are WAY down there and it is difficult if not impossible without the right tools.

    Monkee - Antwort

    If your thin torx driver is not magnetized, you can hold another, magnetized, driver against it as a temporary solution.

    Si B - Antwort

    If you really want to tackle it without proper tools: with a non-magnetised thin torx loosen the screw till its ready to come out, then wrap a little bit of duct tape (sticky side out) around the head of a spare thin screwdriver, gently push the duct taped screwdriver on top of the loosened screw. The magic tape will lift the screws out.

    When re-assembling, it's also a good way to fish out the screws that missed the holes completely when your expert fingers skills are classed as clumsy.

    Mark - Antwort

    You must have a magnetized Torx 10, 2 to 3 inches in length to safely get these screws out. Fortunately if you have the T10 you can magnetize it with your iMac.

    Inside the front bezel are two magnets that hold your apple remote to the case, simply tap the T10 to the larger magnet 3 or 4 times and test it's strength in holding a weighty screw. You are good to go. I did this and the scary lose a screw into the iMac was diminished with a firm hold in both removal and install.

    rwpete63 - Antwort

    If you don't have a magnetic screwdriver or they are aluminum screws, you can use this old mechanics tip: Use a small piece of paper or celophane tape on the head of the screw, then press the screwdriver into it, this creates a nice snug hold so you can reinstall the screws.

    Greg Olson - Antwort

    I was able to slightly bend the plastic case to get my driver to seat. This was the most challenging part of the teardown and reassembly because I did not have the proper tool.

    Tim Dougherty - Antwort

  13. Dieser Schritt ist noch nicht übersetzt. Hilf mit, ihn zu übersetzen!

    : Schritt 13, Bild 1 von 1
    • Lift the display from its lower edge and pull it toward yourself to peel off the EMI shield attached to its top edge.

    • Be mindful of any cables that may get caught during removal.

    Steps 14 & 15; If you remove the top screw, and just loosen the bottom screw you can rotate the optical drive clip out of the way, tighten it, then screw the top screw back in to hold the logic board down for later trying to remove the connector. You also save three more parts kicking around on the desktop.

    dentoni - Antwort

  14. Dieser Schritt ist noch nicht übersetzt. Hilf mit, ihn zu übersetzen!

    : Schritt 14, Bild 1 von 1
    • Remove the 30 mm T10 Torx screw securing the left speaker to the rear case.

  15. Dieser Schritt ist noch nicht übersetzt. Hilf mit, ihn zu übersetzen!

    : Schritt 15, Bild 1 von 1
    • Remove the 17 mm T10 Torx screw from the right speaker.

  16. Dieser Schritt ist noch nicht übersetzt. Hilf mit, ihn zu übersetzen!

    : Schritt 16, Bild 1 von 1
    In diesem Schritt verwendetes Werkzeug:
    Metal Spudger
    $2.99
    Kaufen
    • Pull the SATA data cable connector away from its socket on the logic board.

    • The SATA connector on most iMacs tends to stick in its socket on the logic board. If you are having trouble disconnecting the SATA cable, insert a metal spudger or any other thin tool into the gap between the SATA connector and its socket and twist the spudger's shaft to safely separate the two pieces.

  17. Dieser Schritt ist noch nicht übersetzt. Hilf mit, ihn zu übersetzen!

    : Schritt 17, Bild 1 von 1
    • Disconnect the CPU fan by pulling its connector up off the logic board.

  18. Dieser Schritt ist noch nicht übersetzt. Hilf mit, ihn zu übersetzen!

    : Schritt 18, Bild 1 von 1
    • Disconnect the hard drive power cable by pulling its connector up off the logic board.

  19. Dieser Schritt ist noch nicht übersetzt. Hilf mit, ihn zu übersetzen!

    : Schritt 19, Bild 1 von 1
    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the AirPort Extreme antenna connector up off the AirPort Extreme card.

  20. Dieser Schritt ist noch nicht übersetzt. Hilf mit, ihn zu übersetzen!

    : Schritt 20, Bild 1 von 1
    • If necessary, remove any tape covering the left speaker cable.

  21. Dieser Schritt ist noch nicht übersetzt. Hilf mit, ihn zu übersetzen!

    : Schritt 21, Bild 1 von 2 : Schritt 21, Bild 2 von 2
    • Lift the left and right speakers out of the rear case.

    • The speaker cables are still attached to the logic board.

    • The right speaker cable may be routed under the power button cable or the CPU fan cable (or both). If so, disconnect both cables by pulling their connectors away from the face of the logic board.

  22. Dieser Schritt ist noch nicht übersetzt. Hilf mit, ihn zu übersetzen!

    : Schritt 22, Bild 1 von 1
    • Disconnect the speaker cable connector by pulling its connector away from the socket on the logic board.

    • Pull the connector parallel to the face of the logic board.

  23. Dieser Schritt ist noch nicht übersetzt. Hilf mit, ihn zu übersetzen!

    : Schritt 23, Bild 1 von 1
    • Pull the power button cable connector up off its socket on the logic board.

  24. Dieser Schritt ist noch nicht übersetzt. Hilf mit, ihn zu übersetzen!

    : Schritt 24, Bild 1 von 1
    • Disconnect the ambient light sensor by pulling its connector up off the socket on the logic board.

  25. Dieser Schritt ist noch nicht übersetzt. Hilf mit, ihn zu übersetzen!

    : Schritt 25, Bild 1 von 1
    • Disconnect the following four connectors by pulling them straight away from their sockets:

    • Camera cable.

    • Microphone cable.

    • Optical drive fan cable.

    • Hard drive fan cable.

    I could not get a good grip on this connectors and I decided to wait to disconnect. The cables were much easier to disconnect after the optical drive was removed.

    George Tedrick - Antwort

  26. Dieser Schritt ist noch nicht übersetzt. Hilf mit, ihn zu übersetzen!

    : Schritt 26, Bild 1 von 1
    • Disconnect the optical drive thermal sensor cable from its socket on the logic board.

  27. Dieser Schritt ist noch nicht übersetzt. Hilf mit, ihn zu übersetzen!

    : Schritt 27, Bild 1 von 1
    • Remove the two 7 mm fine thread T10 Torx screws securing the optical drive clip to the logic board.

    • Remove the optical drive clip.

  28. Dieser Schritt ist noch nicht übersetzt. Hilf mit, ihn zu übersetzen!

    : Schritt 28, Bild 1 von 2 : Schritt 28, Bild 2 von 2
    • Squeeze the two optical drive bracket ears together while pulling the drive up toward yourself.

    • It may be helpful to hold the logic board down near the optical drive connector when pulling the drive toward yourself to avoid both components lifting together.

    • Pull the optical drive away from the side of the rear case and remove it from the iMac.

    • If your optical drive is particularly stubborn to remove, try the method used in the optical drive guide from the A1144 G5 iMac.

    The latch on my optical drive does not release no matter how much it is depressed. The latch further from the motherboard released with ease. I am stuck and afraid of damaging the drive or connector if I apply any more force. Does anyone have any tips on how to proceed? I have looked at iMac G5 17" Model A1144 Optical Drive Replacement and used a spudger to no avail.

    Daniel Fuciu - Antwort

    Ok I followed some advice on another guide and for anyone having trouble you can remove the screws holding the superdrive in to the plastic bracket and then easily remove it. Cheers!

    Daniel Fuciu -

  29. Dieser Schritt ist noch nicht übersetzt. Hilf mit, ihn zu übersetzen!

    : Schritt 29, Bild 1 von 1
    • De-route the bundle of power supply cables from behind the hard drive bracket.

    • Some logic boards can be removed without taking out the hard drive.

  30. Dieser Schritt ist noch nicht übersetzt. Hilf mit, ihn zu übersetzen!

    : Schritt 30, Bild 1 von 1
    • Press the hard drive bracket down to free it from the rear case, then rotate the top of the drive toward yourself.

    • Pressing the top of the hard drive bracket down to release it from the rear case requires a substantial amount of force, so we recommend laying your iMac stand-side down on a table to avoid knocking it over.

  31. Dieser Schritt ist noch nicht übersetzt. Hilf mit, ihn zu übersetzen!

    : Schritt 31, Bild 1 von 1
    • Lift the hard drive (with cables attached) straight up off its lower pins and remove it from the rear case.

    • Be mindful of the hard drive cables, as they may catch on the logic board during removal.

  32. Dieser Schritt ist noch nicht übersetzt. Hilf mit, ihn zu übersetzen!

    : Schritt 32, Bild 1 von 1
    • Unplug the power supply cable bundle from the logic board by simultaneously depressing the locking mechanism (toward yourself) with a spudger and pulling the connector away from its socket.

    • The locking mechanism faces the rear case.

  33. Dieser Schritt ist noch nicht übersetzt. Hilf mit, ihn zu übersetzen!

    : Schritt 33, Bild 1 von 1
    • Remove the following six screws securing the logic board to the rear case:

    • Three fine-thread 7 mm T10 Torx.

    • Three coarse-thread 7 mm T10 Torx.

  34. Dieser Schritt ist noch nicht übersetzt. Hilf mit, ihn zu übersetzen!

    : Schritt 34, Bild 1 von 1
    • Be sure to touch the chassis before proceeding to discharge any static.

    • Grab the logic board from its left edge and rotate it out from the rear case, using your other hand to press the RAM arms in enough to clear the rear case.

    • Be mindful of the ports attached to the rear of the logic board as they may stick to the rear case.

  35. Dieser Schritt ist noch nicht übersetzt. Hilf mit, ihn zu übersetzen!

    : Schritt 35, Bild 1 von 1
    • Pull the logic board straight out of the rear case, minding any cables that may get caught.

    • During reassembly of the logic board, pay attention to the position of the I/O connectors. When the board is back in the case, insert a USB or Thunderbolt cable into one of the connectors to align it perfectly.

Ziellinie

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2 Kommentare

I just have to say thank you to ifixit.com because I am no computer guy and I made it through this fix successfully. Even though the instructions for the iMac 17" Intel computer were slightly different from my board, I was still able to make it through. You're a lifesaver ifixit.

Mark - Antwort

Thanks for this great guide. Managed to fix up a broken iMac and put it back into use. Great stuff!

Ulf Springer - Antwort

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