Einleitung
Durch den Austausch der Wärmeleitpaste wird dein iMac wieder viel besser gekühlt.
Was du brauchst
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Löse die Kreuzschlitzschraube in der Mitte des Schutzblechs.
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Entferne das Schutzblech vom iMac.
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Setze zwei Saugheber auf gegenüberliegende Ecken der Glasscheibe.
My GPS unit's car mount suction cup worked nicely here - couldn't find any at the store and didn't want to wait for mail order!
Two cups would make it easier but one is fine if you place it in the center and are careful to pull the panel straight out.
Why use suction cups when some finger nails will do the job nicely, though a plastic spudger might work too. Start at a top corner. Prize the glass away from the case and leave finger nails in. Move the other hand along the top edge and then with finger spread peel the screen cover away. Be careful not to twist plastic I suppose, but I've had no difficulties.
3M Command Strip hooks in opposite corners is another fabulous option when suction cups are not available!
Suction cups usually available at Home Depot or Lowes, in the flooring section. (They're used to handle large ceramic & stone floor tiles.)
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Ziehe die Glasscheibe gerade nach oben vom iMac ab.
In order to avoid unnecessary smudges and what not I covered the LCD itself with some plastic wrap while doing the hard drive upgrade. When I reinstalled it all I needed to do was blow off a few dust particles.
While you are at it, it is worth cleaning out dust within the case to help with cooling - particularly around the fans and vents.
For the screen I used a lens cleaner from my camera bag. These have very fine fibers and won't leave detritus.
Note that the front glass panel is quite light. When reassembling I found it impossible to get the LCD free of dust with the computer lying on its back. I had success with standing the computer up, tilting the LCD down as far as it goes, holding the glass panel upright in front of the computer (about 1 foot away), lightly spraying both the LCD and the back side of the glass panel with compressed air, and then attaching the glass panel (with the computer upright). It took me 5 tries before it was completely clean of dust once the front glass was on.
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Entferne die folgenden 12 Schrauben, welche die Frontblende am dahinter liegenden Gehäuse befestigen:
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Acht 13 mm T8 Torx.
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Vier 25 mm T8 Torx.
Note for the less experienced.. the case is plastic and the metal coarse thread screws will easily cut a new thread in the hole if you don't line up the screw in the original thread. Do this a few times and the hole will be stripped and the screw no longer tightens.
TIP:- place the screw in the hole and rotate BACKWARDS/counter clockwise (for RH threads) until you hear/feel it click/drop into the original thread then tighten the screw down. rotate it a couple times to get the feel of things. If there is any significant resistance you probably don't have the original thread.
This trick also works on the fine metal thread screws and can help avoid cross threading them.
HIH
This step is not really explained here with pictures. But you can check this same step in another guide to help you : iMac Intel 20" EMC 2266 Frontblende austauschen
I think you're missing this step: With the iMac lying on its back screen facing up, grasp the aluminum sides of the bezel and carefully pull it straight up. Then disconnect the microphone cable. Took me a while to figure it out.
I found it helpful to use a few lids from spaghetti sauce jars to hold the different screws. I used a sharpie to mark the inside of the lid w/ location taken from or the step number from directions. Then I placed a small magnet under the lid to hold the screws inside the lid in case I accidentally jostle something on the table. Worked great! You can also use a magnetic knife bar to line up the lids in sequential for the project.
I cut a hardwood block and drew the outline of the the iMac shape with the base as key. I then drew another two lines at 1/2” and 1” all around from the outline. This done I drilled holes for each screw (12 Outer securing the front bezel to the rear case , and 8 Inner screws securing the display panel to the rear case ). That way I don’t lose any or get them mixed up.
I think the title of this chapter could be (in french) désinstallation but not Installation with is the contrary. Idem for the other chapters.
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Lege deine Hände auf die oberen Ecken der Blende (an der Seite) und hebe die Blende 2-3 cm oben vom Gehäuse ab. Danach kannst du die Blende auch unten aushängen (Die Speichermodule haben verhindert, dass du die Blende zuerst unten abnehmen kannst). Beim Zusammenbau musst du unten anfangen.
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Zum Entfernen der Blende musst du den Mikrofonstecker ablösen, wenn nötig das Klebeband abziehen.
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Wenn das Mikrofonkabel angeschlossen bleiben soll, dann lasse es mit dem Logic Board verbunden und lege die Blende auf das Gehäuse drauf, wobei das Mikrofonkabel wie ein Gelenk geformt wird.
I avoided this step by just flipping the housing over and having it lay flat on the table. The tape on mine was on really tight, and I risking ripping the wires out of the connector if I messed with it (I didn't have some really small scissors which might have helped removing it). I would suggest either securing the body of the iMac and the housing to the table you're working on, or somehow securing the housing to the body, so that it doesn't move around accidentally, since it's only hanging on by a very thin wire at that point.
^^^ This! This tutorial should be amended for this step. Much, much easier and less damage-prone.
(There really oughta be a step addressing the removal of the bezel as well.)
cklarson -
Make sure you do not pull this apart by the wires. Have a firm grasp on the plastic parts. Do not force back together. It only goes back together one way. Also, it is crucial when placing the aluminum bezel back in place that this wire is out of the way. It often gets in the way and is easily damaged.
CAUTION - To disconnect the cable, you'll need to support the bezel while you carefully extract slack microphone cable which is tightly tucked within the iMac. (I didn't have this guide's 'notes on' and missed robgendreau's warning - then inadvertently shifted the bezel and busted my microphone cable in this step.)
Don't forget to pull the microphone cord out before you put the panel back on. Otherwise you will have to go back and remove screws to find that microphone cord
As robgendreau says, avoid this whole step by opening the bezel and laying it upside down above the iMac, still connected by the mic cord, just carefully. Then replace the battery, suck/blow out your dust, and carefully rotate the front bezel back over the iMac from where you removed it. No cord manipulation or damage at all!
When reassembling the bezel, you should actually gently pull the microphone connector (and cables) through the ~1 inch long slot in the bezel next to the iSight camera, when lowering the top part of the bezel onto the chassis . Then further lower the bezel onto the chassis of the iMac, while making sure there’s no room / play between the bottom of the bezel and the bottom of the body (where the memory slots reside). . This way you’ll avoid damaging the microphone cable. Finally gently push the microphone wires and connector through that sale long slot in the bezel to conceal them inside the bezel.
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How about no?
The tutorial video is great, but they were fortunate to have such a long microphone cable to work with. The iMac I just upgraded had a cable on the system side (not the one on the bezel) that is barely long enough to provide enough play to be able to grasp the connectors when re-attaching them.
Disconnecting the microphone cable is done automatically, when you breathe on it. Or look at it. Or reattach the bezel and get it screwed down.
However, it should be noted that this connector is a LUXURY compared to the first-gen ("polycarbonate") Intel iMacs. Those come configured with the auto-slice microphone cable: the cable simply shears off during disassembly of the case.
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Schiebe das Kabel und den Stecker des Mikrofons vorsichtig in die Öffnung neben dem Kameraboard.
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Ziehe den Stecker vorsichtig durch die Öffnung im Rahmen rechts neben der iSight Kamera. Schiebe den Stecker nach der Montage des Rahmens wieder durch die Öffnung zurück.
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Ziehen Sie den Stecker des LCD-Temperatursensors gerade nach oben aus dem Sockel auf der Hauptplatine.
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Ziehe dabei falls erforderlich das Kabel des Sensors hinter der Hauptplatine hervor.
This was the most confusing step, because the video shows MJ just tilting the monitor open, and I had a ribbon cable hooked up to it. Finally figured out that the ribbon cable was connected to the LCD temp sensor cable, and it was neatly tucked under the adjacent fan. Had to pull it pretty hard to get it out from under the fan, and then could tilt the LCD. Instructions are not completely clear about this, only that you may have to reroute the cable around the motherboard.
I agree, there is no sign of how to remove the bezel (it took me several minutes to understand it was even the bezel that came off here) in these steps (in all the guides for this model, in fact). On step 4 says remove the LCD screws, and suddenly step 6 shows innards and fans etc - !! - What about showing the bezel being removed here - super confusing and not up to usual ifixit high standards.
If you rush through the reassembly, it's very easy to miss reconnecting the LCD Temp Display cable. I just did it and one of the fans came on full-speed and stayed there through a new macOS install. Did a Google search and found mention of this symptom. At first I was thinking I switched one or more of the inverter cables but this guide shows that this is not a problem. Once I reviewed this step, the problem was obvious as was the solution. Thanks again, iFixit, for saving my nappy behind.
I can speak from experience, this cable’s a pain. It came out of where I tucked it and snuck behind one of the bottom screws, which pierced it during reassembly, afterward it would not boot properly. It’ll boot without the cable plugged in, but the fan runs near max. I’m glad it can at least be used while I wait for the replacement cable to ship. What a weird (lazy) design choice from Apple.
In case the iMac hasn’t been opened for years (typical situation), then you may want to first carefully and prudently remove the piled up dust with a vacuum cleaner and a soft brush. Definitely not with a can of compressed air, as then you’ll spill the debris everywhere (and on the display). Otherwise you won’t be able to get hold of the right cable, connector or screw. In addition, it will help increase the air flow hence reduce heat (and allow the fans to operate at a lower speed).
hi could some one help me with this cable replacing as it has been damaged i mean i would like to know if i could repair the wire or simply replace it and also what type of wire i would need and how could i find one please i m new thanks
kazi
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Entferne die zwei 5,3 mm Torx T6 Schrauben, welche das Bildschirmkabel an der Hauptplatine befestigen.
Removing these screws was the most difficult part of the whole job. They were tight and felt as if the heads were about to chew up. I had to press really hard and jerk the screwdriver counter clockwise to loosen them. Despite others' warnings, I managed to drop a screw when reinserting.
The only tool I needed to buy was the T6 Star Bit - the first auto store I went to had it. These screws are tiny so you have to be careful not to drop them!
Yes, this step is very difficult. I finally used a magnet to magnetize the torx driver, and that helped immensely...however, that was AFTER I lost the right one inside the computer. You really only need one screw to reattach the monitor connector, however.
Argh! I dropped my right screw into the bowels of the iMac. I can't find it anywhere and am loath to leave it rattling around as well as to tear down the machine any further.
Well, I followed the instructions for right-speaker removal and optical drive fan removal and still couldn't find the right screw. I couldn't hear it rattle either so figured it was wedged somewhere. Using an inspection mirror and flashlight, I finally found it. It had fallen down and wedged between the PCB and the plastic housing (below the ports). I was able to slide it toward the right until it came to the void left by the right speaker where it fell out into my hand.
It's true, these were super tight. I only had a T5 which worked on the first screw, but the second wouldn't budge. Ended up filing the tip off the T5 bit - presto! - instant T6.
Note that just below where you are working is the PRAM battery. If you have never replaced this, now is a good time so you won't have to open the machine up again in the near future. The battery is a CR2032.
Taking all the warnings into account about losing these tiny screws, during removal and replacement I held onto the screws tightly with a very fine needle nose tweezer. Fortunately I managed not to lose them either out or in. I highly recommend using a small gripper during this step.
These screws are Torx 7 - at least that was what
I used on them and got a prefect tight fit ... .
torx 6 didn't do it, needed torx 7
If you do manage to lose one of these screws, will the cable still be held in properly if you reinstall it with only one?
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Nutze die schwarze Ziehlasche, um das Bildschirmkabel von der Hauptplatine abzuziehen.
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Entferne die acht 12 mm Torx T8 Schrauben, welche den Bildschirm am hinteren Gehäuse befestigen.
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Hebe den Bildschirm von seiner linken Kante her an und drehe ihn in Richtung der rechten Seite des iMac.
I was able to disconnect the two connectors to the front easily. With those off, I just rotated the LCD out of the way to expose the hard drive. Again, make sure it's stabilized if you do this so that when you yank on something else you don't send it flying.
I did a HD replacement on my 24 inch iMac. It's basically the same, but it does not have disconnectable invertercables. Instead, there's just one cable that's can't be disconnected. It sits too tight to rotate the display to the degree that you can lean it against something, so the only way to get the job done was to call in an extra set of hands to hold the display while I took out the hard drive.
On the 2134 model, I found that the LCD must be lifted from the RIGHT (not the left as per the 2133 guide) - the connector wires are covered in nylon housing and it's way easier just having someone hold the LCD vertical whilst you replace the HDD, unless you have small fingers and feel like disconnecting completely ...
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Entferne bei angehobenem Bildschirm die vier Stromkabel.
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Sollte beim Austausch der Festplatte eine weitere Person helfen, so ist es (nach Lösung des Temperatursensors und des Bildschirmkabels im vorherigen Schritt) möglich, den Austausch bei angehobenem Display vorzunehmen.
This was the only step different for my 2134 - it is just one cable that connects to the monitor - disconnect the monitor end rather than the motherboard side.
For 24" iMacs, a single power cable is attached on the left side of the screen. To remove the cable, lift the screen from the right side and rotate it to the left. Remove the black plastic protector on the back of the screen and disconnect the cable.
So does it matter which ones are connected to which?
That is, at each end there are two connectors (one pink/black the other light blue/dark blue on the "male" side). The "female side appear identical. Does it matter if the pink/black "male" one is connected to the wrong "female" one?
Mark, did you ever get an answer about the connectors?
Mike -
Agreed this is an unspecified issue and i'm surprised it's not covered? Did everyone else just guess?
Yes, mark each female end in a way that distinguishes itself from the other. I put “P” on the harnesses with the pink wires and “B” on the harnesses with the blue wires.
steven -
So let’s say hypothetically I didn’t label them as I failed to notice that they were identical before disconnection. What should I do to resolve this issue?
Managed to avoid this step just lifting the lcd panel and holding it with my... head ;)
Yes, I agree. If you just prop the panel up on the left (carefully!) with your head, or as I used a box, or get a friend to hold it up, this step can be bypassed. It is a tight squeeze inside to work with getting the HD in and out but its totally do-able. If using an SSD, which of course you should, you can just tape it down inside, as they weigh almost nothing.
I'm trying to find some information on replacing the power supply temperature sensor cable. Mine broke during removal of a bad power supply.
Re: Scorps comment above - I got the “beeping” too. Does anyone know how to resolve it, i.e. identify which goes with which? Other than trying every combination?
My screen is just Grey? anyone else have this happen?
I tagged the inverter cables with different color sharpies so as to get them connected back the way they were.
Step 9…. before I took those tiny screws out for the data display cable on the logic board, I put the tip of the torx tool on a magnet (magnets on the front cover worked fine) for a few minutes. this magnetizes the screws so you are less likely to drop them when you go to put them back in.
I replaced the internal hard drive. worked fine. putting everything back together, the CD drive wont insert or eject discs when I tighten the screws on the right side that holds the display in place, or when I put the cover back on. CDs work fine if I leave the screws loose and/or leave the cover off. cant figure out why, i never touched the CD drive at all…
anyone else have this issue after opening the unit up, and how did u fix it?
This happened to me and I found that a cable that had been wrapped around the side of the DVD drive had slid over top of it while I had it open. When I closed it all up, the pressure of the cable against the surface of the DVD drive was enough to impact it. I reopened the machine and pushed the cable back around the side of the DVD drive and it worked fine.
I went with the option of not detaching the screen. I have horror stories around inverters, mostly on notebooks, but still, don’t approach/touch if you don’t have to.
Ask your wife/somebody to hold the screen while you go through the steps below, without detaching the cables in step 11. It is a couple minute to step 18 and having the drive out.
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Löse den Stecker am Kabel zum linken Lautsprecher von der Audioplatine, indem du ihn gerade aus seinem Sockel heraus ziehst.
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Fädle das Kabel zum linken Lautsprecher aus der Führung am CPU Lüfter. Fahre fort, das Kabel auzufädeln und entferne es von der Unterseite der Infrarotplatine und vom Kühlkörper.
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Löse den Stecker vom Kabel des Umgebungstemperatursensors, indem du ihn gerade vom Logic Board wegziehst.
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Hebe, falls nötig, das Kabel zum Umgebungstemperatursensor unter den Kabeln zum Einschaltknopf heraus.
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Entferne die einzelne 28 mmTorx T10 Schraube, welche den linken Lautsprecher am Gehäuse befestigt.
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Hebe den linken Lautsprecher aus dem Rückgehäuse heraus. Versuche nicht ihn seitlich heraus zu schieben, da es unter dem oberen Ende des Lautsprechergehäuses einen Plastikstift gibt, der ihn ihn seinem Sitz befestigt.
I found it impossible to lift the speaker out without breaking the plastic mounting pin. All I can say is don't worry about it if it happens. When I put it back and tightened the screw, it seemed solidly in place.
just completed this step without breaking positioning pin. it appears a small amount of clear liquid adhesive was used to secure this top pin. i slid my hand underneath the speaker and rear case and used my other hand to guide the speaker straight up and with considerable force pulled the housing free of positioning pin without damage.
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Trenne den Netzschalter und den CPU-Lüfter, indem du ihre Anschlüsse gerade nach oben von der Hauptplatine abziehst.
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Trenne das SATA-Datenkabel von der Hauptplatine, indem du es vorsichtig und gerade aus dem Sockel ziehst.
It is necessary to remove the stuck on plastic cover that covers the RAM sockets in order to remove the speaker and SATA cables.
Care is needed because it is easy to snap the plastic which has probably aged by the time dismantling takes place!
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Ziehe das SATA-Datenkabel aus seinem Kanal in der Hauptplatine heraus und lege es in der Nähe der linken Kante des hinteren Gehäuses zur Seite.
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Trenne das Gleichstrom-Eingangskabel, indem du die beiden Verriegelungsarme gleichzeitig drückst und den Stecker von der Buchse auf der Hauptplatine abziehst.
Thing won’t move!
Used Metal spudger with thin edge- alternating wedge action in between male & female pulling male to the left carefully. alternate pulling top them bottom.
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Verwende das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um die beiden AirPort-Antennenstecker von der AirPort-Karte abzuziehen
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Bewege beide AirPort-Antennen in Richtung der Unterkante des iMac, so dass sie die Hauptplatine nicht berühren.
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Verwende das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um den Bluetooth-Antennenstecker von der Bluetooth-Platine zu lösen.
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Ziehe den Stecker des Kamerakabels gerade nach oben aus der Buchse auf der Hauptplatine.
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Ziehe den rechten Lautsprecherkabelstecker gerade nach oben aus seiner Buchse auf der Audioplatine.
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Entferne die einzelne 12-mm-T10-Torx-Schraube, mit der der rechte Lautsprecher am hinteren Gehäuse befestigt ist.
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Hebe den rechten Lautsprecher nach oben und aus dem hinteren Gehäuse heraus, um die Kunststoffbefestigungsstifte darunter zu entfernen.
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Ziehe den Lüfterstecker des optischen Laufwerks gerade nach oben aus seiner Buchse auf der Hauptplatine.
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Verwende das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um die Kabelklemme des optischen Laufwerks vom Anschluss des optischen Laufwerks zu lösen.
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Hebe die Kabelklemme des optischen Laufwerks von der Hauptplatine ab.
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Schiebe den Kabelanschluss des optischen Laufwerks in Richtung der Oberseite des iMac, um ihn von der Hauptplatine zu trennen.
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Ziehe den Stecker des Mikrofonkabels gerade nach oben aus seiner Buchse auf der Audioplatine.
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Entferne ggf. das Klebeband, mit dem der Wärmesensor und die Lüfterkabel am Gehäuse befestigt sind.
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Trenne die folgenden drei Kabel von der Hauptplatine:
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Thermosensor für die Festplatte.
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Thermosensor für optisches Laufwerk.
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Festplattenlüfter.
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Entferne die folgenden 13 Schrauben, mit denen die Hauptplatine am hinteren Gehäuse befestigt ist:
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Sechs T10-Torx-Schrauben mit 7,2 mm Grobgewinde.
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Zwei 6,8 mm T8 Torx. Ziehe diese beiden Schrauben beim Wiedereinbau nicht zu fest an, da die Kunststofflaschen, die sie halten, dünn und spröde sind und brechen können.
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Drei 7-mm-T10-Torx-Schrauben mit Feingewinde.
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Zwei 24-mm-T10-Torx-Schrauben.
Assume you mean 2, not 1 - on my 2133, all screws in this step were T10.
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Hebe die Hauptplatine aus dem hinteren Bereich des Gehäuses und achte dabei auf Kabel, die sich möglicherweise eingeklemmt haben.
Than you for all expirt information .
Please, one question?
After disassemble my IMAC for cleaning cooling system then restored all part and cable.. found that audio not working . I can hear any sound . W I can do?
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Ziehe den Stecker des Temperatursensors vom Kühlkörper gerade nach oben aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board heraus und trenne ihn ab.
By the time I got to this step, this picture didn't resemble anything I see in my 20" early-2008 iMac. I don't know if you forgot the step about removing the fan, but the heat sink isn't visible until you do. Even then, there's no temperature sensor where your illustration indicates there is.
There's definitely a skipped step here, and there may be some difference between the board you're showing here and the board in the early-2008 iMac. From what I can tell, it's both.
Newbies, proceed with caution.
Well, I figured it out. The view shown in this step is from the underside of the logic board, once it's already been removed from the iMac.
Newbies beware: there are several crucial missing steps in this guide.
To get to this point in the repair/upgrade, please see steps 13-31 in "iMac Intel 20" EMC 2133 and 2210 Logic Board Replacement" iMac Intel 20" EMC 2133 und 2210 - Austausch der Hauptplatine. If I had followed these steps, I wouldn't have ruined my board trying to attempt this repair.
Authors, please add these steps.
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Drehe das Logic Board um, so dass der Kühlkörper unten liegt.
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Ziehe - falls nötig - die durchsichtige Schutzfolie von der Halterung des Kühlkörpers ab.
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Drehe die vier 5 mm Torx T8 Schrauben mit Feingewinde heraus, mit denen der Kühlkörper am Logic Board befestigt ist.
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Entferne die 4,3 mm Torx T10 Schraube, die den Kühlkörper an der Halterung befestigt.
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Drücke den Kühlkörper behutsam von der Halterung weg, um ihn vom Logic Board abzulösen.
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Hebe das Logic Board vom Kühlkörper ab.
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Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
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2 Kommentare
GPU Heatsink not Work ( is empty ? ) GPU has 128° and shot down - who can i by new Heatsink or how can i fixit
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GPU Heatsink ist defekt ( sensor hat 128° ) und schaltet sich dan ab - wo bekommt man einen neuen Heatsink oder wie Reparieren
Je suis arrivé par deux fois a changer le CPU et la je m'aperçois que l'iMac ne démarre plus (pas de booool) et ensuite je me rend compte que j'ai pris un proc compatible iMac 8,1 penryn (E8335 1066 FSB) alors que je suis en 7,1 (T7300 800 FSB)...en regardant les commentaires donc c'est un T9300, ou tout autre Intel Penryn a 800 FSB pour passer a Sierra
isn't it actually pc2-5300s ?
grze - Antwort
It is for the 2133, the 2210 uses 6400
maccentric - Antwort
There are comments elsewhere in this step by step re. the bezel removal. That step does NOT show how to remove it. Well, take the 5:39 secs to watch the above video. It clearly shows how the aluminum framed bezel easily comes off once you've seen it done. To whoever decided to preface these instructions with that video, thank you.
ECJohansen - Antwort