Einleitung

Hier wird gezeigt, wie du einen defekten SD Kartenleser austauschen kannst.

  1. Ziehe den Stecker, bevor du anfängst. Lege den iMac auf eine weiche Oberfläche, so wie gezeigt.
    • Ziehe den Stecker, bevor du anfängst. Lege den iMac auf eine weiche Oberfläche, so wie gezeigt.

    • Befestige einen Saugnapf in jeder der oberen Ecken der Scheibe.

    • Um die Saugnäpfe, die wir verkaufen, anzubringen, musst du erst den Saugnapf mit dem beweglichen Griff parallel zur Scheibe aufsetzen. Halte den Saugnapf gegen die Scheibe und klappe den Griff hoch, bis er parallel mit dem anderen ist.

    • Wenn der Saugnapf sich nicht festsaugt, dann versuche die Scheibe und den Saugnapf mit einem milden Reinigungsmittel zu säubern.

    imac 2544 2.5 core i5 i touched the motherboard to supply and it spark now it is not powering

    please tell me the directions

    thanks witting for answering .

    tahir - Antwort

    Im sorry to say, If it sparked when you touched it your motherboard s now fried. You need a new one.

    Robert Wacker -

    Very easy to lift the glass out. Don't jerk too hard.

    kctipton - Antwort

    Success replacing the stock ST31000528AS with a STBD3000100 (Dead 1TB to new 3TB, both Seagate). First try. Using another Mac and a quality Firewire 800 cable, I formatted it using Target Disk mode, 2 partitions (defaults, except I made the first one bigger than the second). To the second, smaller one, I copied a bootable Install OS X Mavericks partition. Tried to boot. It booted, and I installed; nary a glitch. (Running the Installer over Firewire would have been faster, but I didn't want to reboot this machine.)

    See part 2 below...

    Matthew Elvey - Antwort

    (Part 2:)

    I SKIPPED steps 6, 7 AND 8! Instead, after doing Step 5, I noticed I then had enough room and cable length to access the screws in Step 11 if I lifted the LCD up an inch or so, rotated it about 20-30 degrees clockwise and moved it a couple inches toward the base, and put it down. After removing them (Step 11), I propped up the LCD (with a spare spudger) and had enough room to do Steps 12, 13, and 14 without much difficulty. Felt safer/less work and risk than not skipping steps 6-8. No risk of the damage Ersan and Michael caused performing Step 7!

    Matthew Elvey -

    I just edited that step to add a note about the shortcut.

    Matthew Elvey -

    What the ???

    Geoff Wacker has REJECTED my edit: https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/history/ste...

    I wonder why. What's the deal, Geoff? I mean I'd understand if I suggested folks didn't need the suction cups, as that could cut into iFixit's income stream, but what's wrong with suggesting that a few steps aren't needed? It worked for me; the EMC 2389 I fixed is humming along with a new 3TB HD I installed while skipping those steps.

    Matthew Elvey -

    I did not have to remove a single cable! After undoing the torx screws from the sides, I was able to rotate the LCD out of the way enough to reach all the screws holding in the ODD bracket. One of them was a bit challenging to get to, but I never felt that I was risking the cables by leaving them connected. Also, it wasn't totally clear, but you have to actually remove the ODD itself from the ODD bracket - 4 torx screws. The SDD mounts into the hard drive enclosure, then the enclosure is screwed into the bracket. Those holes (enclosure <-> Bracket) did not line up correctly for me, and I had to go with only three of them connected in the end. Seems to work fine.

    cdansmith1 - Antwort

    Another comment on DATA & LCD Temp. Sensor cables: I had to remove the vertical sync, and the backlight cable, however, if you have an assistant or/can carefully rotate the screen clockwise/and then have it held up about 5" to 6" at a slight angle, you do not need to remove LCD data cable or LCD thermal cable, however - IMPORTANT: you must have a second pair of hands/or way to securely prop up the LCD. Also, don't rotate too much, since then you will pull out LCD data cable, and it renders the whole exercise moot, or can damage the cable or connector.

    MaximBorzov - Antwort

    You don't need suction cups. The screen, held by magnets, can simply be pried off using a very thin blade such as a screw driver and fingers.

    Deepsurvival - Antwort

    That's a bad idea. using a metal tool to pry off glass is likely to end with an expensive broken front glass.

    Suction cups are common. Find a couple and do it the safe way. I use some cheap ones that came with iPhone repair kit.

    max damage -

    Hello, I just need to replace a slightly cracked screen on my iMac. Where is it best to place the suction cups? Thanks in advance

    michelemiller0 - Antwort

    No need for suction cups, I just stuck my nails (short like guys usually have) between the top part of the screen and body, and it came off easily. I've never done it before, so it seems to be very easy.

    Nikolas Lintulaakso - Antwort

    Nails worked for me too

    Rob Dale - Antwort

    Just completed the replacement of the optical drive with an SSD using an OWC Data Doubler kit. Attempted to remove the optical drive without disconnecting any cables but found it a bit fiddly to orient the screen for good access. I bit the bullet and disconnected them and found the process less daunting than I imagined. Reconnecting them was similarly straightforward if you're careful.

    Tip: you can skip the step for removing the optical drive thermal sensor connector from the motherboard. Still need to remove the sensor from the optical drive but you can leave that hanging and reattach it to the SSD later.

    osienna - Antwort

    I have an odd question -- I want to remove the polarizer from the LCD. With some monitors this is trivial, others not so much. My question is whether it is bonded to the Liquid crystal, or whether it's loose, or cutting it with a razor blade would remove it. Obviously I'd like to know before I go to the trouble of dismantling the thing... Thanks. Paul

    Paul Kwiat - Antwort

    I use Garmin GPS suction cup. Work very well

    jc3Dcx - Antwort

    I’ve just successfully installed a 1TB SSD in place of my optical drive thanks to the information here- thank you to everyone who has contributed!

    3 comments- the procedure described here seems to vary between HD replacement and dual HD/optical drive replacement. This can be confusing at times.

    Expect there to be minor differences between the layout described and what you find when you open up your iMac. There are also, surprisingly, differences between the HD enclosure description, and the article provided by ifixit.

    I was able to replace the DVD/HD enclosure single-handedly without fully removing the LCD, or deconnecting any of the cables (steps 5-11). It’s a bit cramped, and fiddly, but I was not happy removing any of the cables despite watching videos, etc., since they all seemed to involve applying more force than I was comfortable with. A more detailed description of how to release them might have helped, but even here, there may be minor variations even within the 2389 model.

    Good luck!

    ivan birks - Antwort

  2. Hebe die Scheibe vorsichtig senkrecht zum LCD an, gerade soweit um die Metallstifte, die oben an der Unterseite der Scheibe  angebracht sind zu befreien.
    • Hebe die Scheibe vorsichtig senkrecht zum LCD an, gerade soweit um die Metallstifte, die oben an der Unterseite der Scheibe angebracht sind zu befreien.

    • Ziehe die Scheibe von der Unterkante des iMac weg und lege sie sorgfältig zur Seite.

    • Achte beim Zusammenbau darauf, die Innenseite der Scheibe und das LCD peinlich genau zu reinigen. Jeglicher Staub und Fingerabdrücke werden sichtbar, sobald die Maschine eingeschaltet ist.

    What's the best product to clean the face of the LCD?

    Steve Speirs - Antwort

    Microfiber Cloth

    Leonardo Fournier -

    • Drehe die acht 8 mm T10 Torx Schrauben heraus, die das Display am Gehäuse befestigen.

    • Die beiden letzten Bilder sind Detailaufnahmen jeder Seite des Displays.

    On reassembly, it is REALLY HARD to align those screws, because of the field of the strong magnets that hold the glass cover on. I'm sure there's a trick to it, but I'd love to know what it is for future reference.

    Peter Shenkin - Antwort

    I used needlenose pliers and the T10 to align the screw into the hole. Otherwise the screw keeps jumping to the magnet. And patience with this NON-CAPTIVE screw design (c’mon Apple, even **I** came up with that, and I’m an idiot!)

    finnik2d - Antwort

    A short piece of small gauge vinyl tubing that fits tightly over the head of the T-10 driver leaving an 8th of an inch or so in which to insert the screw to engage the head will hold the screw long enough to keep it away from the magnet and get it going in the hole.

    Paul Boudreau - Antwort

    • Hebe die Oberkante des Displays leicht aus dem äußeren Gehäuse.

    • Hebe es nicht zu weit hoch. Mehrere Kabel verbinden das Display noch mit dem Logic Board.

    When putting the display back I have resistance from the foam elements (on the top end where the iSight is) and have to press down really hard. Is that okay?

    gm.konsortium - Antwort

    Well, stupid me put the 3.5" to 2.5" cage the wrong side up. ;)

    gm.konsortium - Antwort

    Standing the imac upright on its stand really helps this step! Laying it falt makes getting under the panel a real hassle.

    finnik2d - Antwort

  3. Frohes Fest, frohes Tüfteln!
    Satte 12 € Rabatt auf jeden Einkauf ab 50 €. Einfach den Code FIXMAS12 am Ende deines Bestellvorgangs eingeben
    Frohes Fest, frohes Tüfteln!
    Satte 12 € Rabatt auf jeden Einkauf ab 50 €. Einfach den Code FIXMAS12 am Ende deines Bestellvorgangs eingeben
    • Ziehe das Flachbandkabel für die Vertikalsynchronisierung aus seinem Sockel auf der LED Treiberplatine nahe der oberen linken Ecke des iMac.

    • Das Ende dieses Flachbandkabels ähnelt einem ZIF Kabel, der Sockel hat aber keine Feststellklappe. Ziehe das Kabel einfach aus dem Sockel in Richtung des optischen Laufwerks, um es von der LED Treiberplatine zu trennen.

    The vertical sync cable was snug initially and now is loose. I checked and the cable is intact. Has anyone had experience with making it fit better?

    Rajan - Antwort

    Scotch tape on the upper side and sliding this in helped to secure the cable.

    Rajan - Antwort

    Reassembly of this part was the closest I came to disaster on this project. I tried inserting the connector a few times without success, and when I looked it it the leads, which are fragile, were all mangled. I smoothed them out by hand as best I could and and reinserted, very carefully this time. The trick is that the tip of the connector should be pointed somewhat upwards when reconnecting.

    I was pretty sure that when I was done, I would reboot but have no display; but fortunately, everything worked.

    Peter Shenkin - Antwort

    Hi, I still have a question. What is the "Job" of the vertical sync ribbon cable. Thanks

    Lutz Blum - Antwort

    So let’s say someone wanted to suck some of the dust off the back of the display before reassembly. Let’s just say that. Someone would likely suck this forsaken cable up into the vacuum tube then, wouldn’t they? They might. And if it were to oscillate in a rushing torrent of air, it might get munged? It might.

    Here’s how you overcome such a disaster:

    1) cut the end fresh, as close to the end as you can while cutting off any frayed end.

    2) abrade the end gently, repeatedly, along the connector wire axis. I used emory paper. Your goal is to expose the copper conductors in the last 1/4” of the fragile evil wire.

    3) Tape a small stiff cardstock to the back of the end of the connector. This is essential to press the connector wires into the connector.

    4) Gently insert, taking special caution to not peel the copper off of the connector.

    5) Tape that connector down deftly, without letting it move a millimeter and securing it for all time.

    sydnius - Antwort

    I just leave it connected. After disconnecting the other cables, there is enough slack to lay the display on its backside if you’re working on a flat surface.

    Duane Johnson - Antwort

    I have replaced the hdd in this model about 8-10 times - I have never had to disconnect any cables other than the sata and temp sensor cables on the hdd. I just prop the lcd up with an egg carton (or something about 3 inches high that is soft and light) and access the hdd that way. The only thing I ever have trouble with are is putting the LCD screws back in around the magnets - but I have pretty much perfected that with a sissor/ tweezer tool.

    Suzanne Levy - Antwort

    • Kippe das Display weit genug aus aus dem äußeren Gehäuse, um das Kabel für die LED-Rückbeleuchtung von der LED-Treiberplatine zu trennen.

    • Löse das Kabel für die LED Rückbeleuchtung, indem du den Sicherungsmechanismus drückst, während du den Verbinder aus dem Sockel (in Richtung Unterkante des iMac).

    I found it easier to very slightly lift the front edge of the black connector with a small spudger, then gently pulling away towards the bottom of the iMac. Pressing felt a little crude and didn’t work for me.

    Antonio Caira - Antwort

    • Drücke die beiden Hebel am Verbinder des Display-Datenkabels zusammen, um sie vom Sockel auf dem Logic Board auszurasten.

    • Ziehe das Display-Datenkabel aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board heraus.

    in Step 7, my connector (new 21.5 iMac - Dec 2010) was not attached that way and just came of easily.

    erin - Antwort

    Aperte as duas exibição do conector do cabo de dados braços juntos para desbloqueá-lo de seu soquete na placa lógica.

    Darlan Perira da Silva - Antwort

    I accidently broke the data cable socket on step 7. Any advice on what i should do?

    Sam Tang - Antwort

    I feel pretty silly. I spent wayyyy too long trying to get these cables disconnected. Happy I found this guide; hopefully, I won't struggle with such simple things since you provide pretty good details! Thanks.

    J.w. - Antwort

    Pas beaucoup de place pour déconnecter ce cable ! En essayant d'ouvrir trop l'écran pour passer mes "grosses mains" j'ai cossé le connecteur : je suis dans le caca :-( (et pourtant j'en fait des démontages !) Alors ATTENTION !!!

    divers - Antwort

    Il vaut mieux déconnecter la partie du côté écran en premier (sous l'autocollant noir)

    divers - Antwort

    Je suis d’accord. C’est plus facile. Merci mon ami

    Antonio Caira -

    • Löse den Verbinder des LCD Thermosensorkabels aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    • Wenn später nach dem Zusammenbau der Ventilator immer mit voller Drehzahl läuft, musst du diese Verbindung oder den Thermosensor an der Festplatte überprüfen.

    This is important regarding the fan running full speed

    http://blog.macsales.com/19617-diagnosin...

    tobykirkland - Antwort

    Is there a way to test the power supply to see if it's dead?

    professorminh - Antwort

    Achtung! Dieser Stecker kann sehr fest sitzen, hier hilft ein guter Fingernagel um den Stecker abwechselnd rechts und links zu Hebeln

    bluesoundsmusic - Antwort

    • Ziehe sorgfältig das Display zum oberen Rand des iMac und hebe es aus dem Gehäuse. Achte darauf, dass sich dabei keine Kabel verfangen.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Schiebe den Stecker des Kabels zum SD Kartenleser mit der Spudgerspitze aus seinem Sockel.

    • Es vielleicht hilfreich, wenn du abwechselnd am oberen und unteren Ende des Steckers schiebst, bis er sich löst.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Entferne die einzelne Torx T8 Schraube, welche den SD Kartenleser am äußeren Gehäuse befestigt.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Hebe den SD Kartenleser am freien Ende hoch, um ihn vom Kunstoffgehäuse des Lüfters am optischen Laufwerk zu befreien. Ziehe ihn dann vom Rand des äußeren Gehäuses weg, damit er aus den beiden Haltestiften herauskommt.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

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