Einleitung
Als der VRAM an meinem 24" iMac von Anfang 2009 kaputt ging, dachte ich schon, dass er entsorgt werden müsste. Es gab Hinweise, dass die Grafikkarte am Logic Board angelötet wäre, aber das gilt nur für das Basismodell. Modelle mit der ATI-Karte lassen sich reparieren/aufrüsten. Dies wird hier gezeigt.
Zur Reparatur müssen alle Kabel vom Logic Board gelöst, das Logic Board losgeschraubt und entfernt werden, dann kannst du die Grafikkarte auswechseln.
Was du brauchst
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Nach dem Ausbau des Displays kann man gut sehen, was auf dich wartet.
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Das Logic Board ist hier rot markiert. Es muss ganz ausgebaut werden, da die Grafikkarte auf der Rückseite sitzt. Vorher müssen 17 Stecker gelöst werden.
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Die Grafikkarte ist teilweise orange markiert. Die GPU befindet sich rechts, die speziellen Kühlrippen links, im Luftstrom der Kühlrippen für die CPU.
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Nach dem Ablösen der Kabelverbindungen musst du auch das Gehäuse des rechten Lautsprechers entfernen, da es eine Ecke des Logic Boards überdeckt. Es ist mit einer gut sichtbaren Schraube befestigt.
Traducción al Español:
Una vez que haya retirado la pantalla LCD del dispositivo, podrá ver en qué está.
La placa lógica se describe aquí en rojo. Tenemos que eliminarlo completamente ya que la tarjeta de video está instalada en la parte posterior. Antes de hacer eso, tenemos que separar cuidadosamente 17 conectores.
Puedes ver partes de la tarjeta gráfica resaltadas en naranja. La GPU está a la derecha y los disipadores de calor dedicadas están a la izquierda, ubicadas justo a "encima" del ventilador de la CPU.
DESPUÉS DE QUE desconectemos todos los cables, también debe quitar la carcasa del altavoz derecho ya que cubre la esquina de la placa lógica. Este se retiene con un tornillo.
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An dieser Stelle auf dem Logic Board befinden sich drei eng aufeinander sitzende Stecker für die Einschalttaste, den Temperatursensor und den CPU-Lüfter. Löse sie ab.
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Löse die drei Stecker für den Temperatursensor der Festplatte, den Temperatursensor des optischen Laufwerks und den Lüfter der Festplatte ab.
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Jeder dieser drei Stecker hat eine unterschiedliche Anzahl von Kontakten, sie können deswegen nicht verwechselt werden. Danke, Apple.
I followed your indications with great success to revive my old iMac 24" (early 2008) by baking its burned-out Nvidia 8800GS !
This is a great step-by-step guide. Thank you very much for publishing it ! I'd like to add some commentaries : the 3 connectors (red point) are rather hard to unplug. Don't loose patience ! You have to pull them slowly with your nails and tweezers to avoid damaging the tiny wires. Don't be afraid, just take your time, because as indicated perfectly by Jeff, each connector has a different size.
Traducción al Español:
Esta posición en la placa lógica tiene tres conectores muy próximos entre sí para el botón de encendido, el sensor de temperatura ambiente y el ventilador de la CPU. Desenchúfelos.
Desconecte estos tres conectores para el sensor de temperatura HD, el sensor de temperatura de la unidad óptica y el ventilador del disco duro.
Cada uno de estos tres conectores tiene una cantidad diferente de pines, por lo que no puede mezclarlos cuando se vuelva a conectar. Gracias, Apple!
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Löse den Stecker des Lüfters für das optische Laufwerk.
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Löse an dieser Stelle vier Stecker ab: für den SATA-Bus, das Mikrofon, den rechten und den linken Lautsprecher.
RED: On my iMac 24" (early 2008), the plug for the optical drive fan is located just on the right side of the SATA bus plug. I'd like to publish a picture of it but I don't know if it's possible here.
ORANGE: On my iMac 24" (early 2008), the SATA plug is tighten by two little screws of the same size than those of the screen data plug. They are easy to remove. All the connectors are different so that it's impossible to mix them up. As said before, some of them could be a bit hard to remove but take your time, they will loosen.
Traducción al Español:
Desconecte el enchufe del ventilador de la unidad óptica.
Tiene cuatro enchufes para desconectar en esta ubicación: bus SATA, micrófono y los cables de altavoz izquierdo y derecho.
ROJO: en mi iMac 24 "(principios de 2008), el conector del ventilador de la unidad óptica se encuentra justo en el lado derecho del conector del bus SATA. Me gustaría publicar una imagen del mismo, pero no sé si es posible aquí
NARANJA: en mi iMac 24 "(principios de 2008), el tapón SATA se aprieta con dos tornillos pequeños del mismo tamaño que los del tapón de datos de la pantalla. Se pueden quitar fácilmente. Todos los conectores son diferentes, por lo que es imposible mezclar Como se dijo antes, algunos de ellos podrían ser un poco difíciles de quitar, pero tómate tu tiempo, se relajarán.
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On my iMac 24" (early 2008), this cable and the power supply one are covered by a plastic fin that you'll have to bend a little to extract the two cables underneath (left speaker and power supply).
Traducción al Español:
Tome nota aquí de cómo el cable para el altavoz de audio izquierdo (lo estoy pellizcando) se enruta de manera holgada por encima de las ranuras de RAM. Después de volver a instalar la placa lógica, debe volver a colocarlo en un estilo similar.
En mi iMac 24 "(principios de 2008), este cable y la fuente de alimentación están cubiertos por una aleta de plástico que deberá doblar un poco para extraer los dos cables que se encuentran debajo (altavoz izquierdo y fuente de alimentación).
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Fast fertig! Jetzt wird der Mac wirklich drahtlos, da die drei WiFi und Bluetooth Antennen abgetrennt werden. Die Stecker sind empfindlich, ziehe sie behutsam nach oben. Wenn du darunter suchst, findest du auch das Kabel zur ISight-Kamera. Trenne es ab. Beim Zusammenbau musst du hierdran denken.
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Löse als Letztes das Netzkabel und das SATA-Kabel zur Festplatte ab. Der obere Anschluss ist im Foto bereits abgetrennt. Achte beim Ablösen darauf, dass du die Laschen an den Kanten zusammendrückt, um die Rasten zu lösen. An der Festplatte befindet sich ein herkömmlicher SATA-Stecker mit Zuglasche.
ORANGE: On my iMac 24" (early 2008), the main power cord is marked «MLB» and is located in the wifi cables area. My iMac motherboard is a bit different than Jeff's one. But the differences are small. For instance, in my case, there is a small plastic fin above the memory slots that you'll have to bend a little to take out the power and left speaker cables. There is also a small cooler plate in the area above the memory slots.
Traducción al Español:
¡Ya esta casi! Es hora de ir realmente a la red inalámbrica desconectando las tres antenas WiFi y Bluetooth. Estas son pequeñas broches, así que tira suavemente hacia arriba. Además, entrando sigilosamente desde abajo, encontrarás el cable de la cámara iSight. Desenchúfelo. Este es un aspecto que debe tener en cuenta al reinstalar la placa lógica.
Por último, desconectará el cable de alimentación principal y el cable SATA del disco duro. Fotografié el superior ya desconectado; asegúrese de apretar las lengüetas del borde para liberar los ganchos de la abrazadera. El conector HDD SATA tiene una pestaña de extracción conveniente.
NARANJA: En mi iMac 24 "(principios de 2008), el cable de alimentación principal está marcado como« MLB »y está ubicado en el área de cables wifi. Mi placa base iMac es un poco diferente a la de Jeff. Pero las diferencias son pequeñas. También hay una pequeña placa de refrigeración en el área sobre las ranuras de memoria.
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Die Kabel sind abgetrennt. Das Logic Board ist mit zehn Torx T10-Schrauben in drei unterschiedlichen Längen befestigt:
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Lange (2,5 mm x 24 mm)
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Kurze (2,5 mm x 7 mm)
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Eine kurze mit Feingewinde (2,5 mm x 7 mm)
RED: On my iMac 24" (early 2008), the motherboard has just one more long screw located in the middle of the motherboard, below the top one indicated by Jeff in his picture. All the other screws are like those indicated by Jeff.
Traducción al Español:
Cables desconectados.. Ahora para desenroscarlo. Hay diez tornillos Torx T-10 que sujetan la placa lógica a la caja en tres tamaños diferentes:
Rojos: Los largos (2.5mm x 24mm)
Naranjas: Las cortas (2.5mm x 7mm)
Amarillos: uno corto con un hilo fino (2.5mm x 7mm)
ROJO: En mi iMac 24 "(principios de 2008), la placa base solo tiene un tornillo más largo ubicado en el centro de la placa base, debajo de la parte superior indicada por Jeff en su foto. Todos los otros tornillos son como los indicados por Jeff.
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Wenn noch nicht geschehen, musst du jetzt die rechte Lautsprechereinheit entfernen. Drehe dazu eine einzige Torx T10-Schraube (2,5 mm x 14 mm) heraus.
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Entferne die beiden Torx T9-Schrauben (2,5 mm x 7 mm) an der unteren rechten und linken Ecke des RAM-Einschubs, mit denen die schwarze Kunststoffhalterung am Rahmen befestigt ist.
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Hebe jetzt einfach das Logic Board heraus. Achte dabei auf all die eben gelösten Kabel. Die Kühlrippen sind am Logic Board befestigt und kommen mit ihm heraus.
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Beachte: ganz rechts, bei den Audioanschlüssen, ist etwas Folie eingeklebt. Sie muss beim Ausbau des Logic Boards mit abgelöst werden.
Traducción al Español
Si aún no lo ha hecho, retire el ensamblaje del altavoz a la derecha aflojando un solo tornillo T-10 (2,5 mm x 14 mm).
Retire los dos tornillos T-9 (2 mm x 7 mm) de las esquinas inferior derecha e izquierda de las ranuras de RAM que fijan el soporte de plástico negro al marco.
Ahora simplemente levante la placa lógica mientras observa atentamente todos los cables que acaba de desconectar. Las aletas del disipador de calor están unidas a la placa lógica y se levantan con ella.
Nota: Hay un poco de cinta de aluminio en el extremo derecho (por los puertos de audio) que también tendrá que sacar del estuche mientras levanta la placa base.
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Lege die Grafikkarte auf ein Tuch auf der Arbeitsfläche.
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Drehe die Karte herum. Auf der Rückseite sind einige Stecker und die raffinierteb kupfernen Wärmeleiter für die GPU und CPU.
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Diese Wärmeleiter führen zu Kühlrippen am Hauptlüfter. Darin hat sich jahrelang Staub abgesetzt, vielleicht die Ursache für den Defekt des VRAM.
Traducción a Español:
La placa lógica se mueve a mi superficie de trabajo acolchada.
Al voltear el tablero, encontrará todos los conectores del panel posterior y algunas tuberías de calor de cobre ingeniosas para la CPU y la GPU.
Esos tubos de calor fluyen a las aletas por encima del soplador principal. Así es como se ve 4 años de acumulación de polvo. ¿Es esta la razón por la que mi VRAM murió?
I’m thinking of replacing my iMac Graphics cards and RAM! My computer is getting extremely slow and I’m extremely surprised the computer has lasted this long; 10 years and going strong!
XD
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Die Grafikkarte ist mit zwei Torx T9 (2 mm x 5 mm) Schrauben auf der GPU-Platine befestigt...
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einer dritten Torx T9-Schraube (2mm x 4 mm) am Ende des Kühlkörpers...
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...und der allgegenwärtige Thermosensor Stecker.
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Löse alle ab.
On my iMac 24" (early 2008) equipped with a Nvidia 8800GS, there are 3 screws too, located at the exact same places than Jeff 's indications. Great job, Jeff ! Thanks again for your help !
La tarjeta gráfica está retenida por dos tornillos torx T-9 (2 mm x 5 mm) en la placa GPU ...
un tercer tornillo T-9 (2 mm x 4 mm) en el extremo del disipador de calor ...
y el conector del sensor térmico siempre presente.
Eliminar / desconectarlos todos.
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Geschafft! Die Grafikkarte wird einfach um 45° gekippt und aus dem MXM-Anschluss, dem Kühlkörper und allem anderen herausgeschoben.
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Im zweiten Bild ist die neue Grafikkarte (Apple Ersatzteil 661-5135) zu sehen. Der Schaumkleber und der Thermosensor sind bereits angebracht, so dass sie nur noch eingesteckt werden muss.
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World of Warcraft - Spieler stimmen sicher zu: die alte Grafikkarte gäbe eine prima 1H-Axt für Gnome ab!
On my iMac 24" (early 2008, Nvidia 8800GS), I had to unscrew 4 screws to release the graphic card from the cooler plate (don't be afraid, it's easy). Then I had to clean all the thermal paste from the upside of the graphic processor using small amount of 90º alcohol (holding the graphic card upside down so that alcohol doesn't pour inside the chips), unglue all the small stickers, then bake the graphic card during 7 min at 200ºC (graphic chip, up), then, after cooling down and reaching ambient temperature, apply small amount of thermal paste (a 2 mm nut) on the graphic chip, then reassemble everything. Voilà ! It's alive ! Infinite thanks to Jeff for his invaluable help !
¡Lo has hecho! La tarjeta gráfica simplemente se inclina 45 grados y se desliza hacia afuera del conector MXM, disipador de calor y todo. Me alegra poder ver cuán bien diseñada está esta pieza de hardware de Apple.
En la segunda foto, puede ver la tarjeta gráfica de reemplazo (parte de Apple # 661-5135) que obtuve de Impact Computers en Florida. Es un reemplazo directo. Incluso la espuma adhesiva y el sensor térmico ya están en su lugar. De hecho, es mejor que no le des la espalda o puede que olvides cuál es cuál.
Ustedes, jugadores de World of Warcraft, podrían estar de acuerdo con mi hijo y pensé que la vieja tarjeta de video es un hacha Gnomish 1H de aspecto bastante auténtico. ¡Gloria a la Alianza! :-)
On my EMC2267 (A1225), the layout is completely different. There is no heat upper heat sink for the MXM card and where that should be there is a blanking plate! There is none of the metal structure on the front of the motherboard supporting heatpipes. It is as if the MXM card and the subsystems supporting it are missing. I will remove motherboard tonight to see what is going on behind it!
It seem as if you have got the early 2009 base model with the 2.66 GHz CPU. This model has no dedicated GPU, but integrated graphics instead. If the iMac shows faulty graphics you’ve got to replace the entire logic board.
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Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenbauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge. Jetzt ist auch eine gute Gelegenheit, um allen Staub abzusaugen.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenbauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge. Jetzt ist auch eine gute Gelegenheit, um allen Staub abzusaugen.
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36 Kommentare
Aha! The "Apple part number" from step 11 is a great clue! Searching for these cards by this part number yields many online sellers.
There were three cards that could go in this model:
* NVIDIA GT120 (256Mb): part #661-4991
* NVIDIA GT130 (512Mb): part #661-4990
* ATI Radeon HD 4850 (512Mb): part #661-5135
The ATI card is generally marginally cheaper than the equivalent NVIDIA.
When I bought my iMac new, I remember the ATI card being the top-of-the-line option.
If you're going to try and substitute parts, I would start with the website I bought my video card from (http://www.impactcomputers.com/apple-ima...) and see if the video card(s) for that particular 2011 iMac match any of the part numbers aaaidan shows above.
I picked out one of the 2011 iMacs at random on the website and while the actual card looks the same (size and MXM connector) the heat sink is completely different. But you could try and dismantle the heat sink from the old and new cards and swap them. I would love to know if that works. An AMD Radeon HD6750M upgrade would be sweet :)
Hi. I did it, but separatet the cooler from the grafic-card. Removed als that "cooling-gum" on the RAM's and cleaned the CPU with tissue-paper. Heated my kitchen oven to 200°C, waited untill temp ist reached. Then put my grafic-card inside for exact 5 Minutes. After this, open the oven, DONT TOUCH THE CARD. Switch oven to off. Wait until the card has slowly reached room-temperature. Reassemble (using the cooling-goo on the rams, and some "Wärmeleitpaste (German-word; i am lazy)" on the CPU. Press the coolerplate firmly to the card (all the goo has to be flatened, to gain contact between the cooling plate and the cpu) - Reassembled, WORKS!
For a broken-card... at least worth a try. Dont blame me if it dosent work. There are thousand of threads out there about this topic - inform yourself.
BTW: Card is a NVIDIA GeForce 8800 GS 512 MB
Hello Heiko seems that this would only work on a 8800 (German: glaube nicht dass dies bei einer GT 130m funktioniert). But I shall give it a try
Rob -
Hi, for me the new graphic-card was to expensive. i take the card and put it in my oven for 20 min by 220 degrees. and... it works now. How long? i don't know...
IT WORKED! I baked my card at 200°C (about 400F) for 20 minutes yesterday. Mac is runnung smoothly so far...
Rob -
While it will work for a while, best bet is to find a repair place that replaces the NVIDIA chip when repairing the card.
I had the exact problem as described in the article. Bought a graphics board online. I could not locate any new ones, however, for a mid 2008 iMac. Followed this procedure and the referenced one for opening the iMac. Both very excellent guides. Thank you so much for posting them. I would only reiterate the part about being very careful when pulling up the outer glass. The alignment pins break off very easily. I broke 2 or 3. The good thing is that they don't seem to be essential to the screen as it is held in place very well with the magnets. Thanks again for the excellent guides!
Hey guys, i replace the card with a Dell G92-751-B1 M17X/M15X Nvidia GTX 260M 1GB MXM 3.0 and it works fine but gamma is too high (it is like take a look to the sun without sunglasses). I tried to low it with same programs but I cannot lower to to an acceptable level (fn f1 and fn f2 keys dont work). I install windows 7 on bootcamp and cannot install any nvidia drivers, always computer tell me that cannot install the specific driver. In mac the System Information card model correctly listed (gtx 260m). Any idea?
Hi. I have a imac 24 a1225 model. Nvidia Geforce 7600 GT is compatible ?, and geforce GT210 is compatible ?. I expect an answer. Thank you
Hi, in step 6 on the 3rd picture there is black rounded rectangle little black dot on center. Right of the little orange square. What is it? is this infrared or something else? I broke this part today. is this important or can I live with it?
Yes, this is the Apple Infrared receiver for the Apple Remote. If you don't have or never used the Apple Remote, you won't be missing anything. I personally use the Apple Remote with Kodi (media player) to stream media, so I would miss it dearly. If you don't have an Apple Remote, you should be able to pick one up for less than $20. Fixing the infrared receiver might be more expensive though...
Great instructions! I replaced my card today with a used one found on Amazon. I took pictures along the way but still maybe something is not hooked up proper. The fan(s) are running at high speed and are audible. Ideas anyone?
Maybe you forgot to plug back some temperature sensor plug. Or maybe you damaged one of its little cables.
Great instructions ! I completed your step by step with some instructions about the same process regarding an early 2008 24" iMac with a Nvidia 8800GS (iMac8,1 - A1225 - 2211). I baked the videocard and everything is working fine now ! I'd like to add that, as I took my time to avoid damaging anything, this operation took me more than 5 hours.
FYI - as the graphics card’s heat vents are above the CPU’s and there is only 1 fan to cool them, We recommend that the computer be “serviced” to clean out the fan, also clean out the vents. This is especially true in a household that is high dust levels and had pets that shed fur. Side note: having the “hot” power supply above the vents further impedes the airflow.
i used this guide to remove gpu card from A1225 (EMC2211) 2008 3.06 iMac . found 1 additional screw holding the logic board and positions of some of the connectors were slightly different. rest of it same. Lucky for me I got a used 2008 really cheap and replacing the working GPU card to my iMac which lost its Nvidia GeForce 8800 GS (661-4664). I hope it works. Thanks to the original author for the instructions.
Hello
Im currently digging into this guide as well as other ones on iFixit.
I have this iMac, stored and I am looking for a solution so I can give it to my daughter for school purposes.
(iMac 24”, 2.66, early 2009)
https://everymac.com/systems/apple/imac/...
Mine has, obviously, a damaged GPU. I sent it to a repair shop a few years ago and it worked for a while then it stopped.
Would like to give it a try with a friend of mine who knows his ways into an iMac.
I believe that, with the help of this guide and we will make it work somehow.
my question for you all…In case the GPU is badly damaged and out of repair, which GPU can I alternatively look for to put back on this iMac?
Thank you for your help.
Ricardo
- from Portugal
seems like this particular model has a onboard gpu
Matthias -
Hi everyone,
I have two iMacs 2008 :
• One is a 20 inch, works well
• The other is 24, but the GPU is dead.
I’d like to use the video card from the first, to put in the second.
ATI references are the same, but after opening the two iMacs, I saw that there are 3 connectors on the 24”, and only 2 on the 20 inch GPU.
It should work to just leave it without the third connector, right ?
Does anybody know what the connector on the right does (see photo) ?
Could it break the iMacs ?
Thanks a lot for your help. :)
Photo here : VIDEO CARD > From 20 inches to 24 / (Aussi en français))
so I actually have the broken GPU (the ATI one) I pulled from my iMac when I wrote this guide. I looked at the edge connector and curiously it doesn’t look like either one of your pictures. My card has a single notch in the center of the connector and both ends go all the way to the edge of the card. If you look closely at the first of the last 3 photos in the guide you can see it.
The wrong card shouldn’t damage the Mac. It just won’t work.
hello From France.
Many thanks for this tutorial.
I’ve used it to change successfully the ATI Radeon 2600 Pro of an iMac 24” earlier 2008 (A2111)
There’s a few differences, but the tutorial helped a lot.
Best regards, Joan.
I have tried to install a quadro k1000m into the iMac 9.1 24inch early 2009 with the plastic backside and the smallest processor and I found out it has no graphics card to switch, it must be an onboard model. It seems like only the model with the 2,6 ghz processor has an onboard gpu.
I have the same model and there is no MXM GPU (or even a slot) on the motherboard for an MXM. The GPU chip is soldered to the motherboard, so no replacing with a K1100M, etc.
I removed the large square aluminum heatsink on the GPU chip and heat-gunned it for 8 minutes at 200°C and I am about to reassemble (after 30 minutes to cool) and see it that has made a temporary fix. If not, it’s going to be parted-out for pennies.
I have pictures of the alternative motherboard layout without the MXM GPU if anybody wants them.
