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Einleitung

Hier wird der Austausch des Netzteils gezeigt.

    • Befestige je einen Heavy Duty Saugheber in den beiden oberen Ecken der Glasscheibe.

    • Um die Saugheber zu befestigen, platziere sie erst mit dem beweglichen Henkel parallel zur Glasscheibe (wie im zweiten Bild gezeigt).

    • Halte den Saugheber leicht an der Scheibe und hebe den beweglichen Henkel bis er parallel mit dem anderen ist (wie im dritten Bild gezeigt).

    • Wenn deine Saugheber sich nicht befestigen lassen, reinige sie und den Bildschirm mit einem angefeuchteten, faserfreien Tuch. (Am besten verwende destilliertes Wasser und, wenn das nicht hilft, ein 50/50-Gemisch aus Weißwein und destilliertem Wasser.)

    • Trage die Glasscheibe nicht nur an den Saughebern, da sie dir sonst runterfällt, wenn ein Saugheber sich löst.

    • Die Box vom iMac ist ein guter Ort, um die Glasscheibe abzulegen. Andernfalls tut es auch eine weiche und ebene Fläche, zum Beispiel ein Handtuch auf einem Tisch.

    You can easily lift the glass panel off the magnets with only your fingernails (or something thin like a credit card or a guitar pick). No need to buy suction cups you will only use once.

    Nick Caron - Antwort

    Yes, you don't need the specific suction cups to remove the display cover - it's held on by magnets, and if you start at the center by the iSight you can work out to the edges and remove it. I had an iPhone screen suction cup around and it helped with balancing the screen when you pull it out fully, but by no ways is it required.

    jtowner - Antwort

    Great guide and pretty straight forward the only thing that took me ages and I didn't manage to undo were the power btn cable (step 28) and the thermal sensor (step 25) Seemed like they were glued on! Very difficult to remove and obviously conscious so I didn't break anything!

    Eddie - Antwort

    Thanks!!! Worked excellently.

    I used a plunger (clean first ;-) to get the screen off, and http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/ for fan control.

    Then, i did not take out the whole display and left it in the hinges on the bottom side and held it up with two small cardboard boxes. Easy enough to disconnect the hdd then.

    I replaced with an ssd, put that into a ssd enclosure. Had to drill an extra hole in it to fasten the pins that hold it in place.

    Used Carbon Copy Cloner to make an image from the old hdd, with the sad connected via usb. Checked it of it booted via System Preferences > Startup Disk. It worked so the took the imac apart and replaced the disk. Booted, everything was working as always, only faster!

    Frank303 - Antwort

    I'm replacing my optical drive too. what exactly needs to be plugged into the SSD? I don't have the kit - as I am not sure one is required if I buy something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056OB...

    Can you please advise? Can I do it with this piece, or do I need to get the entire bracket kit?

    Allen Borza -

    My display data cable forks, with a smaller section going up near the camera board. Where it forks, it is attached to the aluminum plate that attaches around the cpu board. I haven't seen any images that look similar, and I'm stumped at how to remove this second section of the cable. 2010 i7 build to order

    Awolf - Antwort

    Agree with the other comments here. Despite buying suction cups, not sure they were necessary as the screen removed very easily. A sat nav suction cup would do the job fine.

    Stuart Bloomfield - Antwort

    I can confirm that it is possible to remove the front glass using fingernails rather than suction cups. It isn’t easy, but if you try you should be able to pry off the glass.

    I did this twice: once at the beginning of the procedure and once again at the end, when I realized that a big pice of lint was trapped under the glass.

    gordonhamachi - Antwort

    Don’t use suction cups. totally unnecessary. screen pops off with fingernails.

    Kieran Hobbs - Antwort

    The reason for caution about suction cups tends to be making sure you don’t apply uneven pressure on the edges of the glass and crack it in the process of removal. I do agree however that some pretty small suction cups would do fine. These suction cups can be had at your local princess auto (Harbor freight) for a few bucks and are useful elsewhere as well. if you use your fingernails or other items just try and do it evenly :)

    Abirinder Brar - Antwort

    good duct tape or gaffer tape wrapped around your hands makes an excellent glass removal 'tool'. Even clear packing tape works a charm.

    Stu Blair - Antwort

    A great first step that minimizes that first gust of dust migration when the glass is lifted is to clean the glass, sides *and the back* before lifting the glass, and then lift SLOWLY. Most of that dust is already trapped inside and pulled up as the screen lifts, but with care you can keep it there (or gently vacuum out with a micro vac…).

    John - Antwort

    before starting any of this…there is a device that you can use that comes with the IFixit kit to format and either clone or restore your hard drive to the new drive…it will save you a lot of headaches..it is a SSD enclosure that you can plug into your existing computer …

    Tom Richter - Antwort

    Thanks for the instructions. Before doing this the first time, suggest to everyone, read through at least twice. This is the easiest step, as you’ll soon see. As for removing the glass, USE suction cups, either the ones the sell here, or others. DON’T skimp. Also wear gloves when handling the glass. Don’t take chances.

    ECJohansen - Antwort

  1. Hebe die Glasscheibe rechtwinklig so weit vom Display weg, dass sich die metallenen Befestigungsstifte an der Unterseite der Oberkante lösen. Ziehe die Glasscheibe weg von der unteren Kante des iMac und lege sie vorsichtig beiseite. Trage die Glasscheibe nicht nur an den Saughebern, da sie dir sonst runterfällt, wenn ein Saugheber sich löst.
    • Hebe die Glasscheibe rechtwinklig so weit vom Display weg, dass sich die metallenen Befestigungsstifte an der Unterseite der Oberkante lösen.

    • Ziehe die Glasscheibe weg von der unteren Kante des iMac und lege sie vorsichtig beiseite.

    • Trage die Glasscheibe nicht nur an den Saughebern, da sie dir sonst runterfällt, wenn ein Saugheber sich löst.

    • Löse die Saugheber, nachdem du die Glasscheibe sicher abgelegt hast, da der Unterdruck auf Dauer das Glas beschädigen kann.

    • Denk dran, den Bildschirm und die Innenseite der Glasscheibe vor dem Wiederzusammenbau sorgfältig zu putzen, da eingeschlossener Staub oder Fingerabdrücke deutlich sichtbar sind, sobald du das Display einschaltest.

    you should do this mac up, because, for me, one of the suction cup failed, and the glass fall into the lcd screen. Now there is a big hole in it...

    Lau - Antwort

    do you still have this panel?

    Alpha Dimension -

    Reassembly: After powering on and running for a few minutes, found a large whitish patch on the screen. Persists after powerdown.

    Turned out to be condensation, though it didn't look like it - more like fine white powder rubbed in. Humidity is very high this time of the year. Fix: start airconditioner in a room, leave it running a while, take iMac in, prise open the glass again. Condensation vanishes instantly. Keep it out for a ~15 minutes running infinite loops to get iMac nicely heated up and fans running. Snap glass back.

    ganesh - Antwort

    I used a Swiffer dry cloth to get all the dust off the screen while just blowing with my mouth at a steep angle. I know I didn't get every speck, but the screen looks perfect once assembled and lit again. Removing the glass from the screen is pretty easy if you need to re-clean it.

    Jay Gillibrand - Antwort

    I used a microfiber cloth instead, which worked well. The same type as yo use to clean eye glasses, but in a larger form factor.

    Daniel -

    The Swiffer idea worked great! I just brush it over the LCD and glass panel lightly, and all dust particles are gone quickly. The screen after boot up looked beautiful. Thanks!

    dtsai2 -

    I strongly recomment to detach the suction cups while working at the rest of the steps. In my case after half an our i heart a crack noise behind me on the table... The vacuum of one of the suction cups braked the glass! maybe there should be a warning in the Repair guide

    shippe - Antwort

    I didn't crack the screen, but it popped out of the shims and then popped back in, as if the glass edge is magnetic or has steel in it to connect to magnets. Be careful with this step — it is pretty nerve-wracking, but doable!

    Alex Reynolds - Antwort

    You need a big clean surface free, or at least 2 or more free surfaces because the iMac, the glass and the LCD display are quite bulky. You'll also probably need space for a tablet or a laptop to read this guide while you are working. And don't forget room to work on the optical unit and for the tools you are going to use. I covered a large table with a double layer of bubble wrap. In my opinion it's better to put the glass face down to limit powder sticking on the internal surface.

    Roberto Blandino - Antwort

    Thanks good advice! I was wondering exactly about the working space issue!

    matteoslataper -

    I am doing this repair now. After successfully lifting off the glass panel (yay!), dust blew out of the lower open edge. So I sprayed a can of air around edges. But a poof of the “air” condensated on the LCD. Does anyone know if I can clean the LCD same as how the glass is cleaned (damp cloth with equal parts white distilled vinegar/distilled water) and if not then how?

    Amy C - Antwort

    Hi Amy,

    To clean the LCD panel, I would suggest using a clean microfiber cloth and rubbing alcohol. Distilled water can be used, but avoid regular water, which contains minerals. Make sure the microfiber cloth is absolutely clean and has no hard particles sticking on the surface, which will scratch your LCD when you wipe it.

    Wet the surface with some alcohol and gently wipe with the microfiber cloth. Wipe in one direction.

    Arthur Shi -

    I find that the LCD is not as fragile as we all think. they are very much like any LCD on a tv or monitor. There is no extra glass on the front of a monitor. Not the 23 HP Pro Displays I have anyway. I know this because I punctured one moving my video wall. so I took it apart to know how its put together. I will say, there are several 'lens’ like sheets and a reflective (silver} sheets that are the same size as the panel. and a 1/8”piece of acrylic, all behind the LCD panel. Take care with them and clean as you would your monitor.

    My suggestion is to stand the iMac up after the panel is secured back into the body of the iMac and clean while its vertical. took me 3 attempts before I realized that while laying flat the surface is large and collects dust with mind blowing speed.

    Stu Blair - Antwort

    If the LCD glass is badly cracked and broken you need to be extra careful removing as the sharp shard of broken glass can scratch/harm the underlying screen as they may “fall in or onto” the screen below.

    I found that strategically putting sheets of 8x11 paper(s) under the sharpest, largest broken sections help protect the underlying screen. A vacuum was also helpful removing some of the small glass shards.

    Mark Hilliard - Antwort

  2. Drehe die acht T10 Torx Schrauben heraus, die das LCD am äußeren Gehäuse befestigen.
    • Drehe die acht T10 Torx Schrauben heraus, die das LCD am äußeren Gehäuse befestigen.

    • Fasse den Bildschirm nicht mit den Fingern an, da das Fett Rückstände darauf lassen könnte, die schwer zu beseitigen sind.

    • Mittig an der Oberkante der Displayeinheit befinden sich die EMI Dichtungen. Wenn nötig, musst du diese vorsichtig ablösen.

    The screws on the top (left-top, and right-top) are slightly longer than the other six screws.

    henryhsu - Antwort

    All screws were exactly the same for me.

    Michael Grace - Antwort

  3. Lege den iMac vorsichtig seitlich auf eine flache Oberfläche. Das Display ist mit sehr engen Toleranzen eingebaut, deshalb musst du einen dünnen Haken benutzen, um ihn aus dem Gehäuse zu bekommen. Auf dem ersten Foto siehst du, dass wir dazu eine Büroklammer entsprechend gebogen haben. Eine angewinkelte Pinzette kann auch gute Dienste leisten. Benutze dieses Werkzeug, um eine Seite der oberen Kante des Bildschirms an ihrem metallen Rahmen zu hochzuheben.
    • Lege den iMac vorsichtig seitlich auf eine flache Oberfläche.

    • Das Display ist mit sehr engen Toleranzen eingebaut, deshalb musst du einen dünnen Haken benutzen, um ihn aus dem Gehäuse zu bekommen. Auf dem ersten Foto siehst du, dass wir dazu eine Büroklammer entsprechend gebogen haben. Eine angewinkelte Pinzette kann auch gute Dienste leisten.

    • Benutze dieses Werkzeug, um eine Seite der oberen Kante des Bildschirms an ihrem metallen Rahmen zu hochzuheben.

    • Wenn eine Seite der Oberkante des Displays etwas angehoben ist, halte sie ausserhalb des Gehäuses, während du die andere Seite ebenfalls mit dem Haken anhebst.

    • Halte den Bildschirm hoch genug, um an die Kabel zu gelangen.

    • Hebe aber die Oberkante des Bildschirms auch nicht zu hoch über das Gehäuse an, da die beiden Komponenten über verschiedene kurze Flachbandkabel immer noch verbunden sind.

    I followed the procedure in the Apple Technician Guide and it was a lot easier. Stand the iMac upright on the stand (as per normal operation) and then carefully tilt the top of the unit towards you while holding the top of the LCD. The LCD just falls forward into you hands. It is also then easier to disconnect the cables.

    iandh - Antwort

    This procedure can be VERY dangerous. Why? Because there is the possibility of a gravity disaster if you lose control of the screen and it falls before you disconnect the interface cables. I know. It happened to me. After studying the Apple directions I came to the conclusion that I would need both hands on releasing a couple go the cables and decided to tape off the screen in the open position - which I did very carefully and securely. What I did not account for was the tape not adhering. Needless to say when it came loose the screen fell and ruined the connector sockets (and my computer). This could also happen just trying to hold the screen with one hand while spudging the connectors apart with the other as well. SO. LAY THE iMAC DOWN! DO **N O T** GIVE GRAVITY THE CHANCE TO RUIN YOUR DAY like it did mine!

    Gary Kimes - Antwort

    The right side was much more stuck in place then the left

    John - Antwort

    It’s the fourth time I follow this guide, power supply, gpu and dual hd operations carried successfully and I feel and works munch more relaxed with the iMac laying horizontal on his back. I’m lifting the screen with two hooks at the same time, no torsion on the frame makes munch easier to lift it.

    Then I put in the corners two pieces (two short pencils do the job) of about 3 1/2”, 9 cm, to maintain lifted the screen while disconnecting the ribbons.

    Now the GPU I’ve changed in 2017 has lasted less than three years and here I am to change it again.

    Cesar Martin - Antwort

    After disconnecting the first ribbon you can lift the screen more than 5”, enough to access the other ribbons easily.

    Cesar Martin - Antwort

    As others have posted here, Do NOT let gravity assist you. Put the iMac on it’s back when doing the remaining steps. Also, use some type of hook to assist you in terms of lifting out the display assembly. Expect some resistance, since it does weigh a few pounds. Also, as you’ll see in the next step, you can help yourself by using something to brace it at each corner to keep it lifted. Some have suggested chop sticks, bic pens, etc. Use something approx. 4-5” in length. That will give enough clearance, and not put strain on the cables.

    ECJohansen - Antwort

  4. Löse das Kabel für die Vertikalsynchronisierung in der oberen linken oberen Ecke des Bildschirms. Drücke mit der Spudgerspitze auf die Seitenlaschen des Verbinders und lasse diesen so ganz vorsichtig aus seinem Anschluss heraus wandern.
    • Löse das Kabel für die Vertikalsynchronisierung in der oberen linken oberen Ecke des Bildschirms. Drücke mit der Spudgerspitze auf die Seitenlaschen des Verbinders und lasse diesen so ganz vorsichtig aus seinem Anschluss heraus wandern.

    After disconnecting the VSync cable, I was able to keep the screen wedged apart by 8" which gave me enough working room to extract and replaced the hard drive without having to remove Step 6 - 8. This resulted in a faster change out of the hard drive.

    ITSupportGuy - Antwort

    Amen brother! These are great guides, but could be improved with tips to simplify some processes. I just did the same as you, and it was quick and easy, with less chance to damage cable connections.

    Hobowan Kenobi -

    thank you for the tip. faster swap-out and less risky. cheers

    Eric -

    Totally agree. I did exactly the same. Less chance for mistakes having to do and then undo steps 6-8 and faster and easier. The whole process was shockingly simple. Sad I waited so long.

    JLTX -

    Once I put the tip of a very small flat-head screwdriver on the other side of the spudger tip, the connector popped out.

    Alex Reynolds - Antwort

    This is the answer :-) After 10 mins of faffing about on my own I read the manual (this) and this tip took less than 1 second to get the connector out. Thank you so much, me fellow workers were getting annoyed at my swearing.

    simonf -

    I've managed to break off the fitting in step 6 trying to remove the screen, would anyone know the part to buy or how to fix this?

    jonostainsby - Antwort

    It is very hard to detach the connector with the spudger. I tried forcing the connector out with the spudger by pushing on one side and then the other repeatedly. After several times it finally came out. A tool would be useful for this; there must be special plyers for doing this. Fingernails on either side seems most obvious, but maybe there is a downside to this ?

    Daniel - Antwort

    Rocking it back and forth with some “outward” pressure on both sides was the key. This was the only connector in this upgrade that gave me a problem.

    Stephen Genusa - Antwort

    with some confidence and mechanical inclinations this is the only cable you need to disconnect to replace the hard drive. pointer finger on one side thumb the other, pull up.

    jason kawaja - Antwort

    display propped carefully and two spudgers rocking simultaneously worked great for me to get this free.

    THEN still be careful, a small loop of tape held the cable to the back - that has to be gently pulled away to let the screen lift.

    John - Antwort

    Hi do you sell new sync cables? The little plastic piece on the end that attaches to the motherboard smashed

    Jonathan - Antwort

    Use either a spudger or a small flat head screwdriver to loosen the sides of the connector. Then use small needle nose pliers to disconnect the cable. It’s easier than trying to wedge your hand in there.

    ECJohansen - Antwort

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  6. In diesem Schritt gelangen deine Hände in die Nähe der offenliegenden Rückseite der Stromversorgung. Berühre nie die Rückseite der Stromversorgung, die vielen großen Kondensatoren können heftige und gefährliche Stromschläge austeilen.
    • In diesem Schritt gelangen deine Hände in die Nähe der offenliegenden Rückseite der Stromversorgung. Berühre nie die Rückseite der Stromversorgung, die vielen großen Kondensatoren können heftige und gefährliche Stromschläge austeilen.

    • Löse das Kabel der LED Rückbeleuchtung, indem du die Sperrklinke mit der Hand herunterdrückst und diesen in Richtung der Unterkante des Bildschirms gleiten lässt.

    Do step 7 first. The cable is much shorter and more fragile, you'll have more space to remove the other cables if that one is removed first. On my mac, the cable in step 7 was glued down and had to be freed up before I could pull the connecter out of its socket.

    maccentric - Antwort

    Just skip step 6,7,8 and 9 with this powerful tools: two bic pen holding the frame.

    Look at pictures: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/5jwam38drgcov...

    fabio4 - Antwort

    I also used two pens to hold the display panel up and I had to detach only the vertical sync cable from the display on step 5. Much easier!

    Timo Laak -

    Hello Fabio, can you please re-up the picture? It doesnt seem to be online anymore :(

    Thanx a bunch!

    Esteban Garcia -

    Good idea! I used two chopsticks as they are longer. Placed them near the corner and use one of the T10 screw's hole in the side of LCD panel to prop it up. Fit perfectly and very sturdy. This gave me plenty of space to work with the replacement.

    dtsai2 -

    I skipped step 6, 7 and 8 and were using some flip chart pens to put them between the frame and the display to make the work on the hard drive. Works great.

    Rita - Antwort

    Thanks for the tip. Works a treat!

    john -

    I don’t get how smite six can be skipped—we’re these steps renumbered at some point? How could you even lift the display if you didn’t remove the screws in step 6?

    Frank Stickney - Antwort

    With the help of an assistant, I was able to skip steps 7 - 10 to remove the hard drive. Once you remove the cable you move the forward and up. Have your assistant hold the display and you can easily remove and replace the hard drive.

    babuckman - Antwort

  7. Ziehe die schwarze Lasche gerade nach oben, um den ZIF Verbinder des Datenkabels zum Bildschirm zu öffnen. Ziehe nicht zu kräftig sonst könntest du Verbinder und Anschluss beschädigen.
    • Ziehe die schwarze Lasche gerade nach oben, um den ZIF Verbinder des Datenkabels zum Bildschirm zu öffnen.

    • Ziehe nicht zu kräftig sonst könntest du Verbinder und Anschluss beschädigen.

    • Ziehe weiterhin in Richtung der Oberkante des Gerätes, um das Datenkabel abzulösen.

    i mess up my date zif connector is it fixable?

    LUIS - Antwort

    me too. All went well expect replace this flat cable which is tricky almost when my view is low and I've got big finger. I broke the cable end connector to motherboard but I don't know if I damaged the connector on motherboard. I'm waiting from Apple service for diagnostic.

    I would suggest on the guide to add a step to explain how sensitive is to replace this cable. iMac should lay on the back and it should have some stuff to maintain the motherboard elevated in order to insert the display port flat cable to the motherboard on a less stressful way.

    strcarlos - Antwort

    This image is 100% inaccurate. My mac has a different style connector that needed to be pinched on each side to release the cable.

    Alex Nelson - Antwort

    Its not 100% incorrect for him as this was his connector. It was only incorrect for you.

    asthomas -

    Its accurate for my Mid 2011 3.4ghz iMac so it could be different for different iMac model years.

    Chris -

    The ZIF display cable is tricky to get back in. I would suggest that this cable be the first one to be put back during reassembly. You need maximum wiggle room and visibility for this. Push in the display power cable *after* this one.

    ganesh - Antwort

    How do you get the ZIF connector back in? Some screenshot or instruction would be very helpful. I cannot get mine back in.

    Brian Bowlin - Antwort

    This is really difficult, but essentially it slides in - with no discernible click. A *slight* tug on the lever lets you know its connected. Horrible thing.

    Use the ‘bic pen’ trick and you don’t have to remove this for most things but I had to go ‘back in’ to remove the super drive. I then used the tip next down and removed this connector at the screen also and put this end back in first with no screen in the way.

    Jem Marsh -

    I found the best way for me to reinstall the ZIF cable in was to lay LCD panel on its face and gently peel the black tape on upper part of lcd to expose and remove the connector there. At this point the ribbon cable is free and you can insert the hard to align connector to the board. Set LCD into imac and connect the small push connector next to the ribbon cable on board. It was easier to see and then reconnect the cable to the upper portion of LCD and tape it back over. Reinstall other connectors etc. This way worked best on my 27" iMac as it was much easier.

    thewiseone71 - Antwort

    The is a great tip

    Jem Marsh -

    I had to replace the cable due to damage from trying to reinsert it at the logic board and I found it best to re-attach it exactly the way that thewiseone71 describes it above. If you disconnect the part at the top with the tape around it, this goes much easier and there is less of a chance of damaging the port on the logic board where it attaches at the other end. I think some photos of this port, and the way this cable goes back in would be a great addition to this tutorial. Replacing this cable would also make a great tutorial.

    lana.lawrence - Antwort

    So like everyone else, I managed to screw this up. Do you remember where you picked up the replacement, or what I should look for specifically when looking for a new one? I looked on amazon, but the label on the one I found doesn’t match what is on mine.

    Thanks!

    Jeff McConnell -

    What would be really helpful to this guide, and this image is the closest I can find in the sequence, is a quick summary of exactly where the diagnostic LEDs are on this model (and what they mean, although the latter is easily googleable). I only mention this as I believe my PSU is goosed as no LEDs are illuminated anywhere, however I can only find references to 2009 and 2010 of the similar MYs which evidently have diagnostic LEDs in a different place, hidden under tape, and I suspect numbered differently. So I can't be 100% certain!

    Mark Whitehead - Antwort

    I can see why some people are breaking the connector in step 7. You do initially pull the tab up, perpendicular to the logic board, which unlatches the connector, but then it is finally disconnected by then pulling the tab toward the top of the computer, parallel to the face of the logic board. I found it easier, after disconnecting the sync cable in step 5, to then prop up the bottom of the LCD, in order to better reach the ZIF connector, the LED backlight driver cable and the display power cable.

    randy3833 - Antwort

    I messed this bit up too. It says “pull up”. As the iMac laid flat on the table, I pulled towards the ceiling, bending the pins. It should say “pull towards the top of the machine” or something.

    I managed to straighten them out with a tweezer. Looked like a couple of pins were missing at the end, but it looks ok.

    Now I have to figure out what I have done to the temperature controller, the fans blow on full speed all the time here. :)

    Thor Hammer - Antwort

    Like others that have commented, this cable is a major PITA. I used both a headlamp to illuminate the area, and the iPhone’s Magnifier app to zoom in. The connector on the motherboard is flat, low profile and characterized by a thin narrow slot. The key to removing the cable is to slide the cable out, (after flipping that bar forward). Re-attaching the cable is the same - carefully sliding the cable into that slot, while keeping that bar pulled backward, until the cable was in place.

    For me, this was the most difficult part of the hard drive replacement. I spent more time on this than anything else.

    ECJohansen - Antwort

  8. Löse die Stromversorgung des Displays neben dem Datenkabels mit der Spudgerspitze.
    • Löse die Stromversorgung des Displays neben dem Datenkabels mit der Spudgerspitze.

    need more description than “disconnect” here. It took my awhile to figure out that it’s was a “back toward” connector.

    John Oakley - Antwort

    Thanks John, would you give a short suggestion on how to help other users to remove such a “back toward” connector to make it clearer?

    Angel -

    I broke 1 of the pins on the logic board side when reconnect. Now my iMac have no display. Not sure how to fix it.

    Need better description here with close-up photos to avoid accident like mine.

    quanghuymt - Antwort

    It’s pretty simple, using ifixit IC Extractor/Connector Puller by gripping gently and carefully the tips of the connector and pull straight up towards the HDD. You can also use a spudger and gently very slowly walk it up towards the HDD.

    Chris - Antwort

    I missed up the pins on display power cable. They are very very tiny and fragile.

    John Hill - Antwort

    Cheat on this one. Loosen the tape on the back of the display. That gives you more slack on the cable. The connector is pretty standard.

    ECJohansen - Antwort

  9. Ziehe nun ganz vorsichtig den Bildschirm in Richtung der Oberkante deines iMac und hebe ihn aus dem Gehäuse.
    • Ziehe nun ganz vorsichtig den Bildschirm in Richtung der Oberkante deines iMac und hebe ihn aus dem Gehäuse.

    When I opened up my iMac, I was surprised at how dusty it was inside. You might want to have a vacuum cleaner handy to vacuum up the dust inside the case. Be careful not to vacuum up the screws, though!

    johnhugh - Antwort

    do not use a vacuum cleaner, it has ESD!!!!!

    find a vacuum that is for computer use that has no ESD

    Kurt L Nelson -

    FYI...I did this fix, upgraded my mid 2011 27" to a Samsung 850 EVO SSD Hard Drive. Everything went great except for two parts...

    1. When I started up with my install media I got a three beep error and I could not install. I ended up using the CRTL-R at startup and did a network install that downloads an image of the original OS that comes with the system and allows you to install with the correct file.

    2. Hard drive fan was spinning at full speed the whole time. This was annoying to say the least. Another person on this thread commented on this and said that you had to buy a $30 piece of software to fix it, I actually found another one that is free and works quite well (http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/).

    zackduchene - Antwort

    Just completed the upgrade and put a 1TB SSD in. I have used this software and seems to do a good job. http://www.crystalidea.com/macs-fan-cont...

    adrianh -

    There seems to be a missing step here. All the while one is removing the cables from their sockets it is supposed that the screen which is quite heavy is suspended in mid air… no, you are holding it up with one hand while doing everything single handed while in all honesty it would be nice to have both hands if for nothing else to steady your movements. So. Lets add a step. Lets figure out a solution and use some kind of prop until the screen is removable.

    Gary Kimes - Antwort

    ESD = Electrostatic Discharge

    Gary Kimes - Antwort

  10. Lege das Display mit der Vorderseite nach unten auf eine glatte, weiche Unterlage.
    • Lege das Display mit der Vorderseite nach unten auf eine glatte, weiche Unterlage.

    • Falls das Display ersetzt werden soll, müssen einige zusätzliche Komponenten vom alten auf das neue Display übertragen werden. Vergleiche die Rückseite des alten Displays mit dem Ersatzdisplay. Schaue dir alles genau an und entferne alle Kabel, Sensoren und Schaumstoffteile, die bei dem Ersatzdisplay fehlen. Befestige sie am Ersatzdisplay.

    • Falls ein Kabel unter einem Klebeband befestigt ist, entferne immer erst das Klebeband. Ziehe nicht direkt am Kabel.

    • Ist ein Kabel mit Heißkleber an dem Chassis fixiert, benutze einen erhitzten iOpener oder einen Fön, um den Kleber zu aufzuweichen . Dann kann man ein Plektrum (Opening Pick) unterhalb des Kabels entlang schieben, um es zu lösen. Ziehe niemals an den sehr empfindlichen Steckern.

    • Schiebe ein Plektrum unter die Schaumstoffteile, um sie vom Display zu lösen und ziehe sie dann vorsichtig ab. Man benötigt unter Umständen dünnes, doppelseitiges Klebeband, um sie auf dem neuen Display zu befestigen.

  11. Die nächsten Schritte bringen deine Hände in die Nähe der offenliegenden  Platine des Netzteils. Die vielen Kondensatoren auf dem Netzteil können gefährliche Schläge austeilen. Fasse nicht auf die offenliegenden Flächen auf der Netzplatine. Löse das Kabel der Gleichstromversorgung, indem du mit dem Zeigefinger den Sicherungsmechanismus  auf der Rückseite des Steckers eindrückst und ihn gleichzeitig weg von seinem Sockel am Netzteil ziehst.
    • Die nächsten Schritte bringen deine Hände in die Nähe der offenliegenden Platine des Netzteils. Die vielen Kondensatoren auf dem Netzteil können gefährliche Schläge austeilen. Fasse nicht auf die offenliegenden Flächen auf der Netzplatine.

    • Löse das Kabel der Gleichstromversorgung, indem du mit dem Zeigefinger den Sicherungsmechanismus auf der Rückseite des Steckers eindrückst und ihn gleichzeitig weg von seinem Sockel am Netzteil ziehst.

    • Wenn der Sicherungsmechanismus den Stecker freigegeben hat, kannst du den Stecker vom Netzteil abziehen.

    I found it tricky to get a grip on this connector with the PSU still in place so I left this step until I had removed the torx screws holding the PSU in place. By lifting the PSU and rotating it toward the top of the iMac I was able to disconnect the DC cable easily.

    samusiskin - Antwort

    I did the same. I couldn’t press the release lever with it in.

    Fred Renault - Antwort

    Same for me - thanks. I disconnected the DC cable last as well. Also used spudger (sp?) to help nudge it out.

    Amy C - Antwort

    Once you depress the lock you can pull the cable lightly away from the power supply. I had the same trouble getting my big fingers under the connector in order to reach the lock.

    Diallo House - Antwort

  12. Löse den Stecker der Wechselstromversorgung, indem du den Sicherungsmechanismus eindrückst und den Stecker gleichzeitig aus dem Sockel ziehst.
    • Löse den Stecker der Wechselstromversorgung, indem du den Sicherungsmechanismus eindrückst und den Stecker gleichzeitig aus dem Sockel ziehst.

  13. Entferne folgende Torx T10 Schrauben, die das Netzteil am äußeren Gehäuse befestigen:
    • Entferne folgende Torx T10 Schrauben, die das Netzteil am äußeren Gehäuse befestigen:

    • Zwei T10 Torx Schulterschrauben mit Feingewinde

    • Eine T10 Torx Schulterschraube mit Grobgewinde

    • Eine kurze T10 Torx Schraube mit Grobgewinde

  14. Hebe das Netzteil  aus dem äußeren Gehäuse. Befreie es dabei vorsichtig von Kabeln, mit denen es sich verfangen könnte. Zwei Plastikhalterungen können zusammen mit dem Netzteil herauskommen. Ihre korrekte Einbaulage wird im zweiten Bild gezeigt.
    • Hebe das Netzteil aus dem äußeren Gehäuse. Befreie es dabei vorsichtig von Kabeln, mit denen es sich verfangen könnte.

    • Zwei Plastikhalterungen können zusammen mit dem Netzteil herauskommen. Ihre korrekte Einbaulage wird im zweiten Bild gezeigt.

    For anyone who is swapping out a potentially broken power supply:

    If the main issue was the iMac not receiving power, once you install a new power supply it should have your iMac booting up within minutes of installation. If it doesn't boot up in a short amount of time you may have to try a logic board swap.

    Barrythetech - Antwort

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

106 weitere Nutzer haben diese Anleitung absolviert.

Besonderer Dank geht an diese Übersetzer*innen:

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Phillip Takahashi

Mitglied seit: 22.08.2011

81.956 Reputation

87 Anleitungen geschrieben

It was a bit nerve wracking when it came to the ZIF connector because it is so small and delicate and my eyesight is not great. However I did disconnect and reconnect without damaging. The paperclip tool is a very good recommendation and luckily I had a couple of oversized ones which I have not added to my tool kit. I would suggest making two to allow you to pull on both sides at the same time. So I put everything back together again and now we have a beautifully silent (working!!) iMac. We had got so used to the constant buzzing noise so it is now fantastic to have silence. I am looking forward to repairing more!! One idea that I have is to buy a broken mac air on ebay and repair that for my son.

arjbowd - Antwort

Restez très précis, n'y allez pas en force cela ne sert à rien. La seule chose qui n'est pas indiquée mais qui va vous sauver la vie, munissez-vous d'une bombe d'air sec pour pouvoir dépoussiérer les surfaces des écrans (protection écran) une fois mises à jour. Car même dans une pièce très propre, une fine poussière se dépose et une fois fermé, c'est terminé ! @++

David - Antwort

Great guide, I made my repairs and it was easier than it seemed--The paper clip and the pen caps were innovative work arounds to having a third hand. Unfortunately, this did not fix my iMac from intermittently turning off. The computer worked for about 25 minutes before it shutdown again. Now I cannot turn it back on, next weekend I will go back into the machine to try again. Regardless, the guide and the tools gave me the confidence to try this repair. Thanks!

mikecallender2004 - Antwort

Excellent guide, easily replaced the power supply and my iMac is back to normal.

Thank you ifixit!

John - Antwort

how do i exactly know its my power supply that needs replacement ??? when i plug in the computer and press the power button nothing happens at all ???

dhanoaharpreet - Antwort

I did this replacement and it went great.

iMac turned on, but all the fans are blowing out of control.

I use Macs fan control now, but I would rather understand what I did wrong and how can I fix it.

Maybe I pulled the wrong wire somewhere? Although I swear I did it exactly as instructed.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

dean baram - Antwort

Have you solved this problem?

Maxim Luzhin -

I should have come here first. I watched another video that said to just lift on the sync cable. I broke the tabs (or at least one of them). I'm comfortable doing the rest of the install, but wondering if I rig that connection when I put back together. Ideas?

Marcus Nash - Antwort

COMPLETED!

I took a ton of time taking the screen off since this was the first time I've opened up my iMac - the connections are fragile, but once you know where they are and how they connect, it's quite simple. I found that my inverter board and power supply had been corroded by moisture - a couple years right next to an AC unit were suspect, I guess. My screen is at full brightness and I've had no issue so far! Thanks, ifixit!

Evan Lipkin - Antwort

Thank you iFixit!! I managed to replace the power supply and my iMac is back to normal! Excellent guide.

zemmhassim - Antwort

Amazing how many questions were never answered on here....

gmawiggly - Antwort

Guía excelente. Sustituí la fuente de alimentación hace tres meses y sigue funcionando. ¡Muchas gracias!

Cesar Martin - Antwort

My power supply board looks like the plastic is melting on the lower bottom portion of it . Any ideas? Couldn't post a pic

Cmp - Antwort

The lower left screw (circled orange in Step 12) had a thin black rubber washer underneath it. However, it seemed to expand in diameter such that the screw won't keep it down upon reassembly. Anyone else have this rubber washer and have this problem?

vannmiller - Antwort

Just did this, on my 2011 iMac.

No problems with the procedure, instruction were clear and easy to follow.

Knutur - Antwort

Watched the video guide and read this guide thoroughly, including all the comments, before starting the repair. It took me an hour, going slowly but surely. In the end the iMac powered up again and worked beautifully. For this repair, as some suggested here, I skipped steps 6 through 9 and only disconnected the vertical sync cable. I used two chopsticks (they are longer then pen) to prop up the LCD, using the holes of those T10 screws. Worked great, gave me two free hands and plenty of space to remove the power supply board (T10 screws, disconnect the two connectors), and put the new one in. Reconnect the V-sync cable, then remove the two chopsticks propping up the LCD and carefully lower the LCD back to its place. That's it. I figured the fewer connector touched, the better and it was a lot less stress. The magnet for the glass panel is very powerful. A couple of T10 when I tried to remove it got sucked over, but a small tweezer helped. BTW, be sure to clean any dust of the LCD. Thank you guys for the guide!

dtsai2 - Antwort

Excellent job!! Is it possible to fix or replace the iMAC power button?

I don´t see anything related with it.

Thanks,

Sérgio - Portugal

Sérgio Pinheiro - Antwort

My iMac 2429 has been constantly shutting down in a loop. I have seen that a lot of other people have had this problem. Hopefully switching the power supply would fix this issue.

David Shin - Antwort

Power supply replacement arrived within one day, and it took me less than an hour to replace it. The only difficult parts were the connectors. You either need a lot of strength or (in my case) use tools. Now my IMac 27 is noiseless again. Thanks for the fast delivery, and for the guides.

Eljay Bos

Eljay - Antwort

How can I test the power supply? My iMac not starting the operating system and restarts itself again and again. Is it the solution? I tried all software suggestions and got nothing. I think it's a hardware problem because the installation USB not starting too.

Mohsen Imami Mehrvarz - Antwort

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