Einleitung

Hier wird der Austausch des SD Kartenlesers gezeigt.

  • Befestige je einen Heavy Duty Saugheber in den beiden oberen Ecken der Glasscheibe.

  • Um die Saugheber zu befestigen, platziere sie erst mit dem beweglichen Henkel parallel zur Glasscheibe (wie im zweiten Bild gezeigt).

  • Halte den Saugheber leicht an der Scheibe und hebe den beweglichen Henkel bis er parallel mit dem anderen ist (wie im dritten Bild gezeigt).

  • Wenn deine Saugheber sich nicht befestigen lassen, reinige sie und den Bildschirm mit einem angefeuchteten, faserfreien Tuch. (Am besten verwende destilliertes Wasser und, wenn das nicht hilft, ein 50/50-Gemisch aus Weißwein und destilliertem Wasser.)

  • Trage die Glasscheibe nicht nur an den Saughebern, da sie dir sonst runterfällt, wenn ein Saugheber sich löst.

  • Die Box vom iMac ist ein guter Ort, um die Glasscheibe abzulegen. Andernfalls tut es auch eine weiche und ebene Fläche, zum Beispiel ein Handtuch auf einem Tisch.

You can easily lift the glass panel off the magnets with only your fingernails (or something thin like a credit card or a guitar pick). No need to buy suction cups you will only use once.

Nick Caron - Antwort

Yes, you don't need the specific suction cups to remove the display cover - it's held on by magnets, and if you start at the center by the iSight you can work out to the edges and remove it. I had an iPhone screen suction cup around and it helped with balancing the screen when you pull it out fully, but by no ways is it required.

jtowner - Antwort

Great guide and pretty straight forward the only thing that took me ages and I didn't manage to undo were the power btn cable (step 28) and the thermal sensor (step 25) Seemed like they were glued on! Very difficult to remove and obviously conscious so I didn't break anything!

Eddie - Antwort

Thanks!!! Worked excellently.

I used a plunger (clean first ;-) to get the screen off, and http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/ for fan control.

Then, i did not take out the whole display and left it in the hinges on the bottom side and held it up with two small cardboard boxes. Easy enough to disconnect the hdd then.

I replaced with an ssd, put that into a ssd enclosure. Had to drill an extra hole in it to fasten the pins that hold it in place.

Used Carbon Copy Cloner to make an image from the old hdd, with the sad connected via usb. Checked it of it booted via System Preferences > Startup Disk. It worked so the took the imac apart and replaced the disk. Booted, everything was working as always, only faster!

Frank303 - Antwort

I'm replacing my optical drive too. what exactly needs to be plugged into the SSD? I don't have the kit - as I am not sure one is required if I buy something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056OB...

Can you please advise? Can I do it with this piece, or do I need to get the entire bracket kit?

Allen Borza -

My display data cable forks, with a smaller section going up near the camera board. Where it forks, it is attached to the aluminum plate that attaches around the cpu board. I haven't seen any images that look similar, and I'm stumped at how to remove this second section of the cable. 2010 i7 build to order

Awolf - Antwort

Agree with the other comments here. Despite buying suction cups, not sure they were necessary as the screen removed very easily. A sat nav suction cup would do the job fine.

Stuart Bloomfield - Antwort

I can confirm that it is possible to remove the front glass using fingernails rather than suction cups. It isn’t easy, but if you try you should be able to pry off the glass.

I did this twice: once at the beginning of the procedure and once again at the end, when I realized that a big pice of lint was trapped under the glass.

gordonhamachi - Antwort

Hebe die Glasscheibe rechtwinklig so weit vom Display weg, dass sich die metallenen Befestigungsstifte an der Unterseite der Oberkante lösen. Ziehe die Glasscheibe weg von der unteren Kante des iMac und lege sie vorsichtig beiseite. Trage die Glasscheibe nicht nur an den Saughebern, da sie dir sonst runterfällt, wenn ein Saugheber sich löst.
  • Hebe die Glasscheibe rechtwinklig so weit vom Display weg, dass sich die metallenen Befestigungsstifte an der Unterseite der Oberkante lösen.

  • Ziehe die Glasscheibe weg von der unteren Kante des iMac und lege sie vorsichtig beiseite.

    • Trage die Glasscheibe nicht nur an den Saughebern, da sie dir sonst runterfällt, wenn ein Saugheber sich löst.

    • Löse die Saugheber, nachdem du die Glasscheibe sicher abgelegt hast, da die dauerhafte Spannung das Glas beschädigen kann.

  • Denk dran, den Bildschirm und die Innenseite der Glasscheibe vor dem Wiederzusammenbau sorgfältig zu putzen, da eingeschlossener Staub oder Fingerabdrücke deutlich sichtbar sind, sobald du das Display einschaltest.

you should do this mac up, because, for me, one of the suction cup failed, and the glass fall into the lcd screen. Now there is a big hole in it...

Lau - Antwort

do you still have this panel?

Alpha Dimension -

Reassembly: After powering on and running for a few minutes, found a large whitish patch on the screen. Persists after powerdown.

Turned out to be condensation, though it didn't look like it - more like fine white powder rubbed in. Humidity is very high this time of the year. Fix: start airconditioner in a room, leave it running a while, take iMac in, prise open the glass again. Condensation vanishes instantly. Keep it out for a ~15 minutes running infinite loops to get iMac nicely heated up and fans running. Snap glass back.

ganesh - Antwort

I used a Swiffer dry cloth to get all the dust off the screen while just blowing with my mouth at a steep angle. I know I didn't get every speck, but the screen looks perfect once assembled and lit again. Removing the glass from the screen is pretty easy if you need to re-clean it.

Jay Gillibrand - Antwort

I used a microfiber cloth instead, which worked well. The same type as yo use to clean eye glasses, but in a larger form factor.

Daniel -

The Swiffer idea worked great! I just brush it over the LCD and glass panel lightly, and all dust particles are gone quickly. The screen after boot up looked beautiful. Thanks!

dtsai2 -

I strongly recomment to detach the suction cups while working at the rest of the steps. In my case after half an our i heart a crack noise behind me on the table... The vacuum of one of the suction cups braked the glass! maybe there should be a warning in the Repair guide

shippe - Antwort

I didn't crack the screen, but it popped out of the shims and then popped back in, as if the glass edge is magnetic or has steel in it to connect to magnets. Be careful with this step — it is pretty nerve-wracking, but doable!

Alex Reynolds - Antwort

You need a big clean surface free, or at least 2 or more free surfaces because the iMac, the glass and the LCD display are quite bulky. You'll also probably need space for a tablet or a laptop to read this guide while you are working. And don't forget room to work on the optical unit and for the tools you are going to use. I covered a large table with a double layer of bubble wrap. In my opinion it's better to put the glass face down to limit powder sticking on the internal surface.

Roberto Blandino - Antwort

Thanks good advice! I was wondering exactly about the working space issue!

matteoslataper -

Drehe die acht T10 Torx Schrauben heraus, die das LCD am äusseren Gehäuse befestigen.
  • Drehe die acht T10 Torx Schrauben heraus, die das LCD am äusseren Gehäuse befestigen.

  • Fasse den Bildschirm nicht mit den Fingern an, da das Fett Rückstände darauf lassen könnte, die schwer zu beseitigen sind.

  • Mittig an der Oberkante der Displayeinheit befinden sich die EMI Dichtungen. Wenn nötig, musst du diese vorsichtig ablösen.

The screws on the top (left-top, and right-top) are slightly longer than the other six screws.

henryhsu - Antwort

Lege den iMac vorsichtig seitlich auf eine flache Oberfläche. Das Display ist mit sehr knapp eingebaut, deshalb musst du einen dünnen Haken benutzen, um ihn aus dem Gehäuse zu bekommen. Auf dem ersten Foto siehst du, dass wir dazu eine Büroklammer entsprechend gebogen haben. Als Alternative bietet sich unser Dual Hard Drive Kit an. Er enthält eine gebogene Pinzette, die dafür sehr gut geeignet ist.
  • Lege den iMac vorsichtig seitlich auf eine flache Oberfläche.

  • Das Display ist mit sehr knapp eingebaut, deshalb musst du einen dünnen Haken benutzen, um ihn aus dem Gehäuse zu bekommen. Auf dem ersten Foto siehst du, dass wir dazu eine Büroklammer entsprechend gebogen haben.

    • Als Alternative bietet sich unser Dual Hard Drive Kit an. Er enthält eine gebogene Pinzette, die dafür sehr gut geeignet ist.

  • Benutze diesen Haken, um eine Seite der oberen Kante des Bildschirms an ihrem metallen Rahmen zu hochzuheben.

  • Wenn eine Seite der Oberkante des Displays etwas angehoben ist, halte sie ausserhalb des Gehäuses, während du die andere Seite ebenfalls mit dem Haken anhebst.

  • Halte den Bildschirm hoch genug, um an die Kabel zu gelangen.

  • Hebe aber die Oberkante des Bildschirms auch nicht zu hoch über das Gehäuse an, da die beiden Komponenten über verschiedene kurze Flachbandkabel immer noch verbunden sind.

I followed the procedure in the Apple Technician Guide and it was a lot easier. Stand the iMac upright on the stand (as per normal operation) and then carefully tilt the top of the unit towards you while holding the top of the LCD. The LCD just falls forward into you hands. It is also then easier to disconnect the cables.

iandh - Antwort

This procedure can be VERY dangerous. Why? Because there is the possibility of a gravity disaster if you lose control of the screen and it falls before you disconnect the interface cables. I know. It happened to me. After studying the Apple directions I came to the conclusion that I would need both hands on releasing a couple go the cables and decided to tape off the screen in the open position - which I did very carefully and securely. What I did not account for was the tape not adhering. Needless to say when it came loose the screen fell and ruined the connector sockets (and my computer). This could also happen just trying to hold the screen with one hand while spudging the connectors apart with the other as well. SO. LAY THE iMAC DOWN! DO **N O T** GIVE GRAVITY THE CHANCE TO RUIN YOUR DAY like it did mine!

Gary Kimes - Antwort

Löse das Kabel für die Vertikalsynchronisierung in der oberen linken oberen Ecke des Bildschirms. Drücke mit der Spudgerspitze auf die Seitenlaschen des Verbinders und lasse diesen so ganz vorsichtig aus seinem Anschluss heraus wandern.
  • Löse das Kabel für die Vertikalsynchronisierung in der oberen linken oberen Ecke des Bildschirms. Drücke mit der Spudgerspitze auf die Seitenlaschen des Verbinders und lasse diesen so ganz vorsichtig aus seinem Anschluss heraus wandern.

After disconnecting the VSync cable, I was able to keep the screen wedged apart by 8" which gave me enough working room to extract and replaced the hard drive without having to remove Step 6 - 8. This resulted in a faster change out of the hard drive.

ITSupportGuy - Antwort

Amen brother! These are great guides, but could be improved with tips to simplify some processes. I just did the same as you, and it was quick and easy, with less chance to damage cable connections.

Hobowan Kenobi -

thank you for the tip. faster swap-out and less risky. cheers

Eric -

Once I put the tip of a very small flat-head screwdriver on the other side of the spudger tip, the connector popped out.

Alex Reynolds - Antwort

I've managed to break off the fitting in step 6 trying to remove the screen, would anyone know the part to buy or how to fix this?

jonostainsby - Antwort

It is very hard to detach the connector with the spudger. I tried forcing the connector out with the spudger by pushing on one side and then the other repeatedly. After several times it finally came out. A tool would be useful for this; there must be special plyers for doing this. Fingernails on either side seems most obvious, but maybe there is a downside to this ?

Daniel - Antwort

Rocking it back and forth with some “outward” pressure on both sides was the key. This was the only connector in this upgrade that gave me a problem.

Stephen Genusa - Antwort

with some confidence and mechanical inclinations this is the only cable you need to disconnect to replace the hard drive. pointer finger on one side thumb the other, pull up.

jason kawaja - Antwort

In diesem Schritt gelangen deine Hände in die Nähe der offenliegenden Rückseite der Stromversorgung. Berühre nie die Rückseite der Stromversorgung, die vielen großen Kondensatoren können heftige und gefährliche Stromschläge austeilen.
  • In diesem Schritt gelangen deine Hände in die Nähe der offenliegenden Rückseite der Stromversorgung. Berühre nie die Rückseite der Stromversorgung, die vielen großen Kondensatoren können heftige und gefährliche Stromschläge austeilen.

  • Löse das Kabel der LED Rückbeleuchtung, indem du die Sperrklinke mit der Hand herunterdrückst und diesen in Richtung der Unterkante des Bildschirms gleiten lässt.

Do step 7 first. The cable is much shorter and more fragile, you'll have more space to remove the other cables if that one is removed first. On my mac, the cable in step 7 was glued down and had to be freed up before I could pull the connecter out of its socket.

maccentric - Antwort

Just skip step 6,7,8 and 9 with this powerful tools: two bic pen holding the frame.

Look at pictures: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/5jwam38drgcov...

fabio4 - Antwort

I also used two pens to hold the display panel up and I had to detach only the vertical sync cable from the display on step 5. Much easier!

Timo Laak -

Hello Fabio, can you please re-up the picture? It doesnt seem to be online anymore :(

Thanx a bunch!

Esteban Garcia -

Good idea! I used two chopsticks as they are longer. Placed them near the corner and use one of the T10 screw's hole in the side of LCD panel to prop it up. Fit perfectly and very sturdy. This gave me plenty of space to work with the replacement.

dtsai2 -

I skipped step 6, 7 and 8 and were using some flip chart pens to put them between the frame and the display to make the work on the hard drive. Works great.

Rita - Antwort

Thanks for the tip. Works a treat!

john -

Ziehe die schwarze Lasche gerade nach oben, um den ZIF Verbinder des Datenkabels zum Bildschirm zu öffnen. Ziehe nicht zu kräftig sonst könntest du Verbinder und Anschluss beschädigen.
  • Ziehe die schwarze Lasche gerade nach oben, um den ZIF Verbinder des Datenkabels zum Bildschirm zu öffnen.

  • Ziehe nicht zu kräftig sonst könntest du Verbinder und Anschluss beschädigen.

  • Ziehe weiterhin in Richtung der Oberkante des Gerätes, um das Datenkabel abzulösen.

i mess up my date zif connector is it fixable?

LUIS - Antwort

me too. All went well expect replace this flat cable which is tricky almost when my view is low and I've got big finger. I broke the cable end connector to motherboard but I don't know if I damaged the connector on motherboard. I'm waiting from Apple service for diagnostic.

I would suggest on the guide to add a step to explain how sensitive is to replace this cable. iMac should lay on the back and it should have some stuff to maintain the motherboard elevated in order to insert the display port flat cable to the motherboard on a less stressful way.

strcarlos - Antwort

This image is 100% inaccurate. My mac has a different style connector that needed to be pinched on each side to release the cable.

Alex Nelson - Antwort

Its not 100% incorrect for him as this was his connector. It was only incorrect for you.

asthomas -

The ZIF display cable is tricky to get back in. I would suggest that this cable be the first one to be put back during reassembly. You need maximum wiggle room and visibility for this. Push in the display power cable *after* this one.

ganesh - Antwort

How do you get the ZIF connector back in? Some screenshot or instruction would be very helpful. I cannot get mine back in.

Brian Bowlin - Antwort

This is really difficult, but essentially it slides in - with no discernible click. A *slight* tug on the lever lets you know its connected. Horrible thing.

Use the ‘bic pen’ trick and you don’t have to remove this for most things but I had to go ‘back in’ to remove the super drive. I then used the tip next down and removed this connector at the screen also and put this end back in first with no screen in the way.

Jem Marsh -

I found the best way for me to reinstall the ZIF cable in was to lay LCD panel on its face and gently peel the black tape on upper part of lcd to expose and remove the connector there. At this point the ribbon cable is free and you can insert the hard to align connector to the board. Set LCD into imac and connect the small push connector next to the ribbon cable on board. It was easier to see and then reconnect the cable to the upper portion of LCD and tape it back over. Reinstall other connectors etc. This way worked best on my 27" iMac as it was much easier.

thewiseone71 - Antwort

The is a great tip

Jem Marsh -

I had to replace the cable due to damage from trying to reinsert it at the logic board and I found it best to re-attach it exactly the way that thewiseone71 describes it above. If you disconnect the part at the top with the tape around it, this goes much easier and there is less of a chance of damaging the port on the logic board where it attaches at the other end. I think some photos of this port, and the way this cable goes back in would be a great addition to this tutorial. Replacing this cable would also make a great tutorial.

lana.lawrence - Antwort

What would be really helpful to this guide, and this image is the closest I can find in the sequence, is a quick summary of exactly where the diagnostic LEDs are on this model (and what they mean, although the latter is easily googleable). I only mention this as I believe my PSU is goosed as no LEDs are illuminated anywhere, however I can only find references to 2009 and 2010 of the similar MYs which evidently have diagnostic LEDs in a different place, hidden under tape, and I suspect numbered differently. So I can't be 100% certain!

Mark Whitehead - Antwort

Löse die Stromversorgung des Displays neben dem Datenkabels mit der Spudgerspitze.
  • Löse die Stromversorgung des Displays neben dem Datenkabels mit der Spudgerspitze.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Ziehe nun ganz vorsichtig den Bildschirm in Richtung der Oberkante deines iMac und hebe ihn aus dem Gehäuse.
  • Ziehe nun ganz vorsichtig den Bildschirm in Richtung der Oberkante deines iMac und hebe ihn aus dem Gehäuse.

When I opened up my iMac, I was surprised at how dusty it was inside. You might want to have a vacuum cleaner handy to vacuum up the dust inside the case. Be careful not to vacuum up the screws, though!

johnhugh - Antwort

do not use a vacuum cleaner, it has ESD!!!!!

find a vacuum that is for computer use that has no ESD

Kurt L Nelson -

FYI...I did this fix, upgraded my mid 2011 27" to a Samsung 850 EVO SSD Hard Drive. Everything went great except for two parts...

1. When I started up with my install media I got a three beep error and I could not install. I ended up using the CRTL-R at startup and did a network install that downloads an image of the original OS that comes with the system and allows you to install with the correct file.

2. Hard drive fan was spinning at full speed the whole time. This was annoying to say the least. Another person on this thread commented on this and said that you had to buy a $30 piece of software to fix it, I actually found another one that is free and works quite well (http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/).

zackduchene - Antwort

Just completed the upgrade and put a 1TB SSD in. I have used this software and seems to do a good job. http://www.crystalidea.com/macs-fan-cont...

adrianh -

There seems to be a missing step here. All the while one is removing the cables from their sockets it is supposed that the screen which is quite heavy is suspended in mid air… no, you are holding it up with one hand while doing everything single handed while in all honesty it would be nice to have both hands if for nothing else to steady your movements. So. Lets add a step. Lets figure out a solution and use some kind of prop until the screen is removable.

Gary Kimes - Antwort

ESD = Electrostatic Discharge

Gary Kimes - Antwort

Fasse den Verbinder des Kabels zum SD Kartenleser mit eine Pinzette an und ziehe ihn gerade aus seinem Sockel auf dem SD Kartenleser.
  • Fasse den Verbinder des Kabels zum SD Kartenleser mit eine Pinzette an und ziehe ihn gerade aus seinem Sockel auf dem SD Kartenleser.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Entferne die einzelne Torx T8 Schraube, welche den SD Kartenleser am äußeren Gehäuse befestigt.
  • Entferne die einzelne Torx T8 Schraube, welche den SD Kartenleser am äußeren Gehäuse befestigt.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Hebe den SD Kartenleser an seinem freien Ende hoch, um so das Plastikgehäuse des Lüfteres des optischen Laufwerks freizulegen. Ziehe ihn dann weg von der Kante des Gehäuses, um die beiden Haltestifte zu lösen.
  • Hebe den SD Kartenleser an seinem freien Ende hoch, um so das Plastikgehäuse des Lüfteres des optischen Laufwerks freizulegen. Ziehe ihn dann weg von der Kante des Gehäuses, um die beiden Haltestifte zu lösen.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Abschluss

Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

5 weitere Nutzer haben diese Anleitung absolviert.

Besonderer Dank geht an diese Übersetzer:

100%

VauWeh hilft uns, die Welt in Ordnung zu bringen! Wie kann ich mithelfen?
Beginne zu übersetzen ›

Phillip Takahashi

Mitglied seit 22.08.2011

72.097 Reputation

191 Anleitungen geschrieben

Kommentar hinzufügen

Statistik anzeigen:

Letzte 24 Stunden: 0

Letzte 7 Tage: 19

Letzte 30 Tage: 85

Insgesamt: 11,945