Einleitung
Hier wird der Austausch des optischen Laufwerks gezeigt.
Was du brauchst
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Befestige je einen Heavy Duty Saugheber in den beiden oberen Ecken der Glasscheibe.
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Halte den Saugheber leicht an der Scheibe und hebe den beweglichen Henkel bis er parallel mit dem anderen ist (wie im dritten Bild gezeigt).
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Hebe die Glasscheibe rechtwinklig so weit vom Display weg, dass sich die metallenen Befestigungsstifte an der Unterseite der Oberkante lösen.
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Ziehe die Glasscheibe weg von der unteren Kante des iMac und lege sie vorsichtig beiseite.
you should do this mac up, because, for me, one of the suction cup failed, and the glass fall into the lcd screen. Now there is a big hole in it...
do you still have this panel?
Reassembly: After powering on and running for a few minutes, found a large whitish patch on the screen. Persists after powerdown.
Turned out to be condensation, though it didn't look like it - more like fine white powder rubbed in. Humidity is very high this time of the year. Fix: start airconditioner in a room, leave it running a while, take iMac in, prise open the glass again. Condensation vanishes instantly. Keep it out for a ~15 minutes running infinite loops to get iMac nicely heated up and fans running. Snap glass back.
I used a Swiffer dry cloth to get all the dust off the screen while just blowing with my mouth at a steep angle. I know I didn't get every speck, but the screen looks perfect once assembled and lit again. Removing the glass from the screen is pretty easy if you need to re-clean it.
I used a microfiber cloth instead, which worked well. The same type as yo use to clean eye glasses, but in a larger form factor.
Daniel -
The Swiffer idea worked great! I just brush it over the LCD and glass panel lightly, and all dust particles are gone quickly. The screen after boot up looked beautiful. Thanks!
dtsai2 -
I didn't crack the screen, but it popped out of the shims and then popped back in, as if the glass edge is magnetic or has steel in it to connect to magnets. Be careful with this step — it is pretty nerve-wracking, but doable!
You need a big clean surface free, or at least 2 or more free surfaces because the iMac, the glass and the LCD display are quite bulky. You'll also probably need space for a tablet or a laptop to read this guide while you are working. And don't forget room to work on the optical unit and for the tools you are going to use. I covered a large table with a double layer of bubble wrap. In my opinion it's better to put the glass face down to limit powder sticking on the internal surface.
Thanks good advice! I was wondering exactly about the working space issue!
I am doing this repair now. After successfully lifting off the glass panel (yay!), dust blew out of the lower open edge. So I sprayed a can of air around edges. But a poof of the “air” condensated on the LCD. Does anyone know if I can clean the LCD same as how the glass is cleaned (damp cloth with equal parts white distilled vinegar/distilled water) and if not then how?
Hi Amy,
To clean the LCD panel, I would suggest using a clean microfiber cloth and rubbing alcohol. Distilled water can be used, but avoid regular water, which contains minerals. Make sure the microfiber cloth is absolutely clean and has no hard particles sticking on the surface, which will scratch your LCD when you wipe it.
Wet the surface with some alcohol and gently wipe with the microfiber cloth. Wipe in one direction.
I find that the LCD is not as fragile as we all think. they are very much like any LCD on a tv or monitor. There is no extra glass on the front of a monitor. Not the 23 HP Pro Displays I have anyway. I know this because I punctured one moving my video wall. so I took it apart to know how its put together. I will say, there are several 'lens’ like sheets and a reflective (silver} sheets that are the same size as the panel. and a 1/8”piece of acrylic, all behind the LCD panel. Take care with them and clean as you would your monitor.
My suggestion is to stand the iMac up after the panel is secured back into the body of the iMac and clean while its vertical. took me 3 attempts before I realized that while laying flat the surface is large and collects dust with mind blowing speed.
If the LCD glass is badly cracked and broken you need to be extra careful removing as the sharp shard of broken glass can scratch/harm the underlying screen as they may “fall in or onto” the screen below.
I found that strategically putting sheets of 8x11 paper(s) under the sharpest, largest broken sections help protect the underlying screen. A vacuum was also helpful removing some of the small glass shards.
Be advised: I did a perfect replacement of the hard drive, temperature sensor to the SSD, LCD screwed in, glass cleaned. I went to put back the final glass, I set the bottom edge in place and as I slowly moved to have the magnets take hold, they pulled the screen out of my gingerly held fingers, and smacked into place……cracking the glass! Ugh! So, on this last step, hold tight as you put the glass back in slowly. It will cost you about 40-50 bucks for a new glass (mine is on it’s way).
Yikes... that sucks. thanks for sharing this information. I took everyone's advice and removed and placed this back very very carefully.
Don't trust the suction cups after you remove the screen cover. Used both hands to hold this piece carefully!
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Drehe die acht T10 Torx Schrauben heraus, die das LCD am äußeren Gehäuse befestigen.
All screws were exactly the same for me.
There were only eight screws holding the lcd in place on the sides 4X4
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Lege den iMac vorsichtig seitlich auf eine flache Oberfläche.
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Benutze dieses Werkzeug, um eine Seite der oberen Kante des Bildschirms an ihrem metallen Rahmen zu hochzuheben.
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Halte den Bildschirm hoch genug, um an die Kabel zu gelangen.
I followed the procedure in the Apple Technician Guide and it was a lot easier. Stand the iMac upright on the stand (as per normal operation) and then carefully tilt the top of the unit towards you while holding the top of the LCD. The LCD just falls forward into you hands. It is also then easier to disconnect the cables.
This procedure can be VERY dangerous. Why? Because there is the possibility of a gravity disaster if you lose control of the screen and it falls before you disconnect the interface cables. I know. It happened to me. After studying the Apple directions I came to the conclusion that I would need both hands on releasing a couple go the cables and decided to tape off the screen in the open position - which I did very carefully and securely. What I did not account for was the tape not adhering. Needless to say when it came loose the screen fell and ruined the connector sockets (and my computer). This could also happen just trying to hold the screen with one hand while spudging the connectors apart with the other as well. SO. LAY THE iMAC DOWN! DO **N O T** GIVE GRAVITY THE CHANCE TO RUIN YOUR DAY like it did mine!
It’s the fourth time I follow this guide, power supply, gpu and dual hd operations carried successfully and I feel and works munch more relaxed with the iMac laying horizontal on his back. I’m lifting the screen with two hooks at the same time, no torsion on the frame makes munch easier to lift it.
Then I put in the corners two pieces (two short pencils do the job) of about 3 1/2”, 9 cm, to maintain lifted the screen while disconnecting the ribbons.
Now the GPU I’ve changed in 2017 has lasted less than three years and here I am to change it again.
After disconnecting the first ribbon you can lift the screen more than 5”, enough to access the other ribbons easily.
As others have posted here, Do NOT let gravity assist you. Put the iMac on it’s back when doing the remaining steps. Also, use some type of hook to assist you in terms of lifting out the display assembly. Expect some resistance, since it does weigh a few pounds. Also, as you’ll see in the next step, you can help yourself by using something to brace it at each corner to keep it lifted. Some have suggested chop sticks, bic pens, etc. Use something approx. 4-5” in length. That will give enough clearance, and not put strain on the cables.
To spare a paperclip, I had better to use a good needlenose plier, catch the iron frame just near the corner, and hook up.
Used plastic spudgers as levers, one pointed to start in the corner, then two flat, working across gently. When I got to the middle and pried a bit, the top lifted all the way across, allowing access to the cable in the next step. I decided against doing this with the unit standing vertically.
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Löse das Kabel für die Vertikalsynchronisierung in der oberen linken oberen Ecke des Bildschirms. Drücke mit der Spudgerspitze auf die Seitenlaschen des Verbinders und lasse diesen so ganz vorsichtig aus seinem Anschluss heraus wandern.
After disconnecting the VSync cable, I was able to keep the screen wedged apart by 8" which gave me enough working room to extract and replaced the hard drive without having to remove Step 6 - 8. This resulted in a faster change out of the hard drive.
Amen brother! These are great guides, but could be improved with tips to simplify some processes. I just did the same as you, and it was quick and easy, with less chance to damage cable connections.
thank you for the tip. faster swap-out and less risky. cheers
Eric -
Totally agree. I did exactly the same. Less chance for mistakes having to do and then undo steps 6-8 and faster and easier. The whole process was shockingly simple. Sad I waited so long.
JLTX -
After disconnecting the first cable, I was getting ready to disconnect the second cable when I realized that the amount of opening necessary to get to the second cable, is also sufficient to get to the hard drive, so why go the extra steps. I used a wedge I had close by to very carefully keep the screen up, to enable removing the hard drive with both hands. If you are replacing the hard drive, skip to Step 11.
Bret -
I did this and supported the LCD with two chopsticks. Jumped right to step 11. Power supply replaced; no fuss. Great suggestion. Thanks.
I did this and I agree. I don’t know about the alternative (doing steps 6-8) because this is my first time doing this but it was definitely quick and “safer” than disconnecting a bunch of cables (the Vsync cable alone was scary bc it feels so fragile). Only downside is you have to replace the HDD while holding a heavy panel with one hand. That being said, there was more than enough room to get around.
This quicker method also came in handy when I had to open it up again right after closing it because I forgot to install a piece 😂🤦🏻♂️
adam -
Once I put the tip of a very small flat-head screwdriver on the other side of the spudger tip, the connector popped out.
This is the answer :-) After 10 mins of faffing about on my own I read the manual (this) and this tip took less than 1 second to get the connector out. Thank you so much, me fellow workers were getting annoyed at my swearing.
simonf -
I've managed to break off the fitting in step 6 trying to remove the screen, would anyone know the part to buy or how to fix this?
It is very hard to detach the connector with the spudger. I tried forcing the connector out with the spudger by pushing on one side and then the other repeatedly. After several times it finally came out. A tool would be useful for this; there must be special plyers for doing this. Fingernails on either side seems most obvious, but maybe there is a downside to this ?
Rocking it back and forth with some “outward” pressure on both sides was the key. This was the only connector in this upgrade that gave me a problem.
with some confidence and mechanical inclinations this is the only cable you need to disconnect to replace the hard drive. pointer finger on one side thumb the other, pull up.
Use either a spudger or a small flat head screwdriver to loosen the sides of the connector. Then use small needle nose pliers to disconnect the cable. It’s easier than trying to wedge your hand in there.
I broke the vsync cable removing it. Any tips on how to replace it? The wire is hair thin and I have trouble stripping even much bigger ones. I don't suppose iFixit sells a replacement?
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Löse das Kabel der LED Rückbeleuchtung, indem du die Sperrklinke mit der Hand herunterdrückst und diesen in Richtung der Unterkante des Bildschirms gleiten lässt.
Do step 7 first. The cable is much shorter and more fragile, you'll have more space to remove the other cables if that one is removed first. On my mac, the cable in step 7 was glued down and had to be freed up before I could pull the connecter out of its socket.
Just skip step 6,7,8 and 9 with this powerful tools: two bic pen holding the frame.
Look at pictures: https://www.dropbox.com/sh/5jwam38drgcov...
I also used two pens to hold the display panel up and I had to detach only the vertical sync cable from the display on step 5. Much easier!
Hello Fabio, can you please re-up the picture? It doesnt seem to be online anymore :(
Thanx a bunch!
Good idea! I used two chopsticks as they are longer. Placed them near the corner and use one of the T10 screw's hole in the side of LCD panel to prop it up. Fit perfectly and very sturdy. This gave me plenty of space to work with the replacement.
dtsai2 -
I don’t get how smite six can be skipped—we’re these steps renumbered at some point? How could you even lift the display if you didn’t remove the screws in step 6?
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Ziehe die schwarze Lasche gerade nach oben, um den ZIF Verbinder des Datenkabels zum Bildschirm zu öffnen.
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Ziehe weiterhin in Richtung der Oberkante des Gerätes, um das Datenkabel abzulösen.
me too. All went well expect replace this flat cable which is tricky almost when my view is low and I've got big finger. I broke the cable end connector to motherboard but I don't know if I damaged the connector on motherboard. I'm waiting from Apple service for diagnostic.
I would suggest on the guide to add a step to explain how sensitive is to replace this cable. iMac should lay on the back and it should have some stuff to maintain the motherboard elevated in order to insert the display port flat cable to the motherboard on a less stressful way.
This image is 100% inaccurate. My mac has a different style connector that needed to be pinched on each side to release the cable.
Its not 100% incorrect for him as this was his connector. It was only incorrect for you.
asthomas -
Its accurate for my Mid 2011 3.4ghz iMac so it could be different for different iMac model years.
Chris -
How do you get the ZIF connector back in? Some screenshot or instruction would be very helpful. I cannot get mine back in.
This is really difficult, but essentially it slides in - with no discernible click. A *slight* tug on the lever lets you know its connected. Horrible thing.
Use the ‘bic pen’ trick and you don’t have to remove this for most things but I had to go ‘back in’ to remove the super drive. I then used the tip next down and removed this connector at the screen also and put this end back in first with no screen in the way.
I found the best way for me to reinstall the ZIF cable in was to lay LCD panel on its face and gently peel the black tape on upper part of lcd to expose and remove the connector there. At this point the ribbon cable is free and you can insert the hard to align connector to the board. Set LCD into imac and connect the small push connector next to the ribbon cable on board. It was easier to see and then reconnect the cable to the upper portion of LCD and tape it back over. Reinstall other connectors etc. This way worked best on my 27" iMac as it was much easier.
The is a great tip
I had to replace the cable due to damage from trying to reinsert it at the logic board and I found it best to re-attach it exactly the way that thewiseone71 describes it above. If you disconnect the part at the top with the tape around it, this goes much easier and there is less of a chance of damaging the port on the logic board where it attaches at the other end. I think some photos of this port, and the way this cable goes back in would be a great addition to this tutorial. Replacing this cable would also make a great tutorial.
So like everyone else, I managed to screw this up. Do you remember where you picked up the replacement, or what I should look for specifically when looking for a new one? I looked on amazon, but the label on the one I found doesn’t match what is on mine.
Thanks!
What would be really helpful to this guide, and this image is the closest I can find in the sequence, is a quick summary of exactly where the diagnostic LEDs are on this model (and what they mean, although the latter is easily googleable). I only mention this as I believe my PSU is goosed as no LEDs are illuminated anywhere, however I can only find references to 2009 and 2010 of the similar MYs which evidently have diagnostic LEDs in a different place, hidden under tape, and I suspect numbered differently. So I can't be 100% certain!
I can see why some people are breaking the connector in step 7. You do initially pull the tab up, perpendicular to the logic board, which unlatches the connector, but then it is finally disconnected by then pulling the tab toward the top of the computer, parallel to the face of the logic board. I found it easier, after disconnecting the sync cable in step 5, to then prop up the bottom of the LCD, in order to better reach the ZIF connector, the LED backlight driver cable and the display power cable.
I messed this bit up too. It says “pull up”. As the iMac laid flat on the table, I pulled towards the ceiling, bending the pins. It should say “pull towards the top of the machine” or something.
I managed to straighten them out with a tweezer. Looked like a couple of pins were missing at the end, but it looks ok.
Now I have to figure out what I have done to the temperature controller, the fans blow on full speed all the time here. :)
Like others that have commented, this cable is a major PITA. I used both a headlamp to illuminate the area, and the iPhone’s Magnifier app to zoom in. The connector on the motherboard is flat, low profile and characterized by a thin narrow slot. The key to removing the cable is to slide the cable out, (after flipping that bar forward). Re-attaching the cable is the same - carefully sliding the cable into that slot, while keeping that bar pulled backward, until the cable was in place.
For me, this was the most difficult part of the hard drive replacement. I spent more time on this than anything else.
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Löse die Stromversorgung des Displays neben dem Datenkabels mit der Spudgerspitze.
need more description than “disconnect” here. It took my awhile to figure out that it’s was a “back toward” connector.
Thanks John, would you give a short suggestion on how to help other users to remove such a “back toward” connector to make it clearer?
Angel -
I broke 1 of the pins on the logic board side when reconnect. Now my iMac have no display. Not sure how to fix it.
Need better description here with close-up photos to avoid accident like mine.
Cheat on this one. Loosen the tape on the back of the display. That gives you more slack on the cable. The connector is pretty standard.
I could not reconnect this cable. How to put back?
Jagat, it’s easier if you lift the other side of the display.
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Ziehe nun ganz vorsichtig den Bildschirm in Richtung der Oberkante deines iMac und hebe ihn aus dem Gehäuse.
When I opened up my iMac, I was surprised at how dusty it was inside. You might want to have a vacuum cleaner handy to vacuum up the dust inside the case. Be careful not to vacuum up the screws, though!
do not use a vacuum cleaner, it has ESD!!!!!
find a vacuum that is for computer use that has no ESD
FYI...I did this fix, upgraded my mid 2011 27" to a Samsung 850 EVO SSD Hard Drive. Everything went great except for two parts...
1. When I started up with my install media I got a three beep error and I could not install. I ended up using the CRTL-R at startup and did a network install that downloads an image of the original OS that comes with the system and allows you to install with the correct file.
2. Hard drive fan was spinning at full speed the whole time. This was annoying to say the least. Another person on this thread commented on this and said that you had to buy a $30 piece of software to fix it, I actually found another one that is free and works quite well (http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/).
Just completed the upgrade and put a 1TB SSD in. I have used this software and seems to do a good job. http://www.crystalidea.com/macs-fan-cont...
adrianh -
There seems to be a missing step here. All the while one is removing the cables from their sockets it is supposed that the screen which is quite heavy is suspended in mid air… no, you are holding it up with one hand while doing everything single handed while in all honesty it would be nice to have both hands if for nothing else to steady your movements. So. Lets add a step. Lets figure out a solution and use some kind of prop until the screen is removable.
ESD = Electrostatic Discharge
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Lege das Display mit der Vorderseite nach unten auf eine glatte, weiche Unterlage.
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Falls ein Kabel unter einem Klebeband befestigt ist, entferne immer erst das Klebeband. Ziehe nicht direkt am Kabel.
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Ist ein Kabel mit Heißkleber an dem Chassis fixiert, benutze einen erhitzten iOpener oder einen Fön, um den Kleber zu aufzuweichen . Dann kann man ein Plektrum (Opening Pick) unterhalb des Kabels entlang schieben, um es zu lösen. Ziehe niemals an den sehr empfindlichen Steckern.
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Schiebe ein Plektrum unter die Schaumstoffteile, um sie vom Display zu lösen und ziehe sie dann vorsichtig ab. Man benötigt unter Umständen dünnes, doppelseitiges Klebeband, um sie auf dem neuen Display zu befestigen.
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Ziehe mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers das optische Datenkabel aus dem optischen Laufwerk heraus.
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Ziehe mit der Spudgerspitze den Verbinder des Temperatursensor des optisches Laufwerks aus seinem Anschluss.
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Entferne die vier T10 Torx Schrauben, die das optische Laufwerk am Gehäuse des iMac befestigen.
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Hebe die linke Seite des optischen Laufwerks leicht an, ziehe es dann seitlich weg um die Zentrierstifte zu befreien.
There are two small plastic positioning pin holes on the right of the optical drive. When you replace the drive, make sure to align the pins with the holes as you slide the drive back into place.
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Löse den Teil des Klebebands aus Aluminium ab, welcher hier rot markiert ist. Lasse den restlichen Teil an der schwarzen Kunststoffhalterung kleben.
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Entferne die beiden Torx T10 Schrauben auf jeder Seite des optischen Laufwerks (also insgesamt vier).
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Drücke mit der Spudgersitze jede der Rasten in der Halterung aus ihren Vertiefungen am Boden des optischen Laufwerks heraus.
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Drehe die Halterung leicht weg vom optischen Laufwerk.
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Ziehe die Halterung des optischen Laufwerks weg vom offenen Ende des Laufwerks, achte dabei darauf, dass sich keine Kabel verfangen.
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Löse mit der Spudgerspitze das Stückchen Schaumstoff ab, welches den Thermosensor des optischen Laufwerks bedeckt.
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Heble vorsichtig mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers den Thermosensor aus seiner Klebeverbindung zum optischen Laufwerk.
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Wenn im Laufwerk noch eine Disc oder etwas anderes steckengeblieben ist, dann haben wir eine Anleitung, um dies zu reparieren.
Do I have to reattach the optical drive thermal sensor to the SSD?
Yes, just stick it onto the SSD and cover it with the buffer. Better than leaving it loose in the computer, or worse omitting it altogether.
looks like you cracked the edge of that sensor :)
Replacing an HDD was easy as PIE compared to this, the replacement Superdrive's holes did not line up the same way the original did. The original was a Sony drive, the replacement was made by H-L. But the shape was the same. By holding the bracket in place with my hand I was able to worm two screws in sideways until the pressure lined it up, then I was able to get the rest of the bracket screws back in. I had to do that while making sure the little tabs in the front of the drive were orientated properly - And not messing up the silver tape much. After that it was all relatively easy. The instructions were spot on and for the exact iMac (11,1) I was working on. The replacement Superdrive works perfectly despite the Brand change, I installed Bootcamp to make sure- It read and installed from my Windows 7 install DVD, NO Problem. I set the monitor screen in place without screwing it all back in just in case I had to open it back up again, not needed. Thank you SO much for your easily understood instructions.
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Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
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9 Kommentare
I replaced origin with an LG CA30P internal Slot-in Blueray Combo, works fine.
I have a 2011 27” iMac that I want to install a SSD to it and found a caddy that replaces the DVD drive with a second HDD or SSD. Has anyone here done this?
Doing it today, let you know how it goes.
did you get yours done?
Great guide. Thanks.
hi and thank you for a wonderful breakdown of the imac. i followed all your steps and it went off without a hitch. i have one question, all seemed fine but when i went to take out optical drive as i lifted it a bunch of black powder came out from under it. kind of like pencil lead. do you have any idea what it could be or maybe its just dirt although it clearly looks like black pencil lead thank you
Hi, it may have been dust that has stayed there a long time and turned black, I removed the dvd drive from my Mac and there was a bit of dust under it.
Quinn -
Thank you for the wonderful guide, I was able to remove the disc without any problems. But now I have the problem that there is a small metal lever at the slot for the CD that refuses to go into a position that allows a CD to be inserted. Can someone help me there?
Hermann, you have a small plastic peg up and down the slot inside the IMac. Did you notice them ?
You can easily lift the glass panel off the magnets with only your fingernails (or something thin like a credit card or a guitar pick). No need to buy suction cups you will only use once.
Nick Caron - Antwort
Yes, you don't need the specific suction cups to remove the display cover - it's held on by magnets, and if you start at the center by the iSight you can work out to the edges and remove it. I had an iPhone screen suction cup around and it helped with balancing the screen when you pull it out fully, but by no ways is it required.
jtowner - Antwort
Great guide and pretty straight forward the only thing that took me ages and I didn't manage to undo were the power btn cable (step 28) and the thermal sensor (step 25) Seemed like they were glued on! Very difficult to remove and obviously conscious so I didn't break anything!
Eddie - Antwort
Thanks!!! Worked excellently.
I used a plunger (clean first ;-) to get the screen off, and http://exirion.net/ssdfanctrl/ for fan control.
Then, i did not take out the whole display and left it in the hinges on the bottom side and held it up with two small cardboard boxes. Easy enough to disconnect the hdd then.
I replaced with an ssd, put that into a ssd enclosure. Had to drill an extra hole in it to fasten the pins that hold it in place.
Used Carbon Copy Cloner to make an image from the old hdd, with the sad connected via usb. Checked it of it booted via System Preferences > Startup Disk. It worked so the took the imac apart and replaced the disk. Booted, everything was working as always, only faster!
Frank303 - Antwort
I'm replacing my optical drive too. what exactly needs to be plugged into the SSD? I don't have the kit - as I am not sure one is required if I buy something like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056OB...
Can you please advise? Can I do it with this piece, or do I need to get the entire bracket kit?
Allen Borza -
My display data cable forks, with a smaller section going up near the camera board. Where it forks, it is attached to the aluminum plate that attaches around the cpu board. I haven't seen any images that look similar, and I'm stumped at how to remove this second section of the cable. 2010 i7 build to order
Awolf - Antwort
Agree with the other comments here. Despite buying suction cups, not sure they were necessary as the screen removed very easily. A sat nav suction cup would do the job fine.
Stuart Bloomfield - Antwort
I can confirm that it is possible to remove the front glass using fingernails rather than suction cups. It isn’t easy, but if you try you should be able to pry off the glass.
I did this twice: once at the beginning of the procedure and once again at the end, when I realized that a big pice of lint was trapped under the glass.
gordonhamachi - Antwort
Don’t use suction cups. totally unnecessary. screen pops off with fingernails.
Kieran Hobbs - Antwort
The reason for caution about suction cups tends to be making sure you don’t apply uneven pressure on the edges of the glass and crack it in the process of removal. I do agree however that some pretty small suction cups would do fine. These suction cups can be had at your local princess auto (Harbor freight) for a few bucks and are useful elsewhere as well. if you use your fingernails or other items just try and do it evenly :)
Abirinder Brar - Antwort
good duct tape or gaffer tape wrapped around your hands makes an excellent glass removal 'tool'. Even clear packing tape works a charm.
Stu Blair - Antwort
A great first step that minimizes that first gust of dust migration when the glass is lifted is to clean the glass, sides *and the back* before lifting the glass, and then lift SLOWLY. Most of that dust is already trapped inside and pulled up as the screen lifts, but with care you can keep it there (or gently vacuum out with a micro vac…).
John - Antwort
before starting any of this…there is a device that you can use that comes with the IFixit kit to format and either clone or restore your hard drive to the new drive…it will save you a lot of headaches..it is a SSD enclosure that you can plug into your existing computer …
Tom Richter - Antwort
Thanks for the instructions. Before doing this the first time, suggest to everyone, read through at least twice. This is the easiest step, as you’ll soon see. As for removing the glass, USE suction cups, either the ones the sell here, or others. DON’T skimp. Also wear gloves when handling the glass. Don’t take chances.
ECJohansen - Antwort
Duct tape works too!
Dani - Antwort