Schwierigkeitsgrad
Moderat
Schritte
34
Zeitaufwand
1 - 2 Stunden
- Bildschirm 24 Schritte
- Linker Lautsprecher 6 Schritte
- Festplatte 4 Schritte
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Diese Anleitung wird von den iFixit-Mitarbeitern als außergewöhnlich gut eingestuft.
Einleitung
Wenn du die Festplatte austauschen willst, musst du zuerst das Display vom Rahmen trennen und den linken Lautsprecher entfernen.
'''Bevor du am iMac arbeitet: Ziehe den Netzstecker und drücke den Einschaltknopf mindestens 10 sec lang, um die Kondensatoren des Netzteils zu entladen.'''
Sei sehr vorsichtig und berühre keine Anschlüsse der Kondensatoren und auch keine der Lötstellen auf der Netzplatine.
Werkzeuge
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Beginne an der linken Seite des Bildschirms, auf der Seite der Ein-/Aus-Taste, und schiebe das iMac Opening Tool zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse.
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Benutze das Werkzeug wie einen Pizzaschneider - rolle es entlang des Schlitzes zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse und es wird den Kleber durchschneiden.
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Fahre mit dem Werkzeug entlang der linken Gehäuseseite.
In my experience the cutter also worked very well for cutting the original adhesive. Unfortunately when I was reinstalling the display with the new adhesive strips, somehow the display power connector came loose. I had to open the display a second time and the cutter was not as effective against the new adhesive. I managed to break the cutter tool plastic wheel and cause a few small cracks in the edge of the displays glass as I worked! Be careful and go slowly!
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Schneide den Kleber entlang der oberen linken Gehäuseseite durch.
The pizza cutter will sink in all the way to the tool handle when the adhesive is full cut, but don’t feel you have to do this in one motion. Some parts cut easier and some require a lot (like 20x) of gentle back and forth.
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Schneide den Rest des Klebers an der rechten Seite des Gehäuses bis ganz nach unten durch.
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Lege den iMac mit dem Bildschirm nach oben auf einen Tisch.
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Beginne an der oberen rechten Seite des iMacs und schiebe eine Plastikkarte zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse.
I actually DESTROYED my display (black vertical strips) by pushing the card in a bit TOO DEEP. So it is REALLY important to insert the card only a bit (1-2mm) more than the cutter wheel, in particular at the top side, where many flat cables connect the panel with the PCB. These can be damaged very easily!
Same thing with me…. Pushed cards to far…. new panel needed…€600…..
i think ifixit needs to place a bigger caveat, as I have missed it the first time
i successfully upgraded two imacs. one opened with ifixit pizza knife and another with a regular paper knife. however, when i had to open the first one once again i broke its screen glass. it seems ifixit adhesive strips are too strong. next time i’ll try to use heater to weaken glue tension.
I broke one too. And even if you think you did it correctly, you’ll not be able to see where you might have gone too far. You would think it’s very protected behind that metal plate, but no. Take special care with this offence to “right to repair” This should have been designed WAY better. I mean replacing a hardrive that is very likely to fail over the course of time, or even a simple desire to upgrade to an ssd!.
Bummer
I’m thinking I might just use vinyl tape to keep the screen in place for at least a little while after an upgrade. The extra strength of the replacement tape sounds scary.
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Verdrehe die Plastikkarte leicht, um den Abstand zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse zu vergrößern. Trenne allen Kleber in der Nähe der Ecke auf.
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Zu viel Kraft kann das Display zerbrechen. Arbeite vorsichtig. Versuche nicht, den Spalt mehr als 6 mm breit zu machen.
My children tend to collect cards like this from hotels, Disneyland, old IDs, iTunes cards, gift cards etc. They came in handy for this step. After wedging in the first card into the left corner, I wedged the left corner, then added cards along the bottom edge. Finally I continued to push in additional cards to existing cards and found that this created a smooth even pressure along the display top. At 2-3 card-thickness the last of the adhesive let go, gentle as a baby.
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Schiebe die Karte in Richtung der Bildschirmmitte, um den Rest des Klebers durchzutrennen.
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Schiebe die Karte zurück in die Ecke des Bildschirms und lasse sie dort stecken, um zu verhindern, dass der Kleber den Bildschirm wieder festklebt.
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Schiebe eine zweite Karte zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse an der oberen linken Seite.
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Drehe die Karte leicht, um den Abstand zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse zu vergrößern.
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Schiebe die Plastikkarte in Richtung Mitte und höre wieder vor der Mitte auf, um die iSight Kamera nicht zu beschädigen.
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Wie im Bild gezeigt, inseriere die Karten zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse und fange an, diese leicht zu drehen, um den Abstand zwischen Gehäuse und Bildschirm zu vergrößern.
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Wenn Teile des Bildschirms sich nicht zu lösen scheinen, dann nimm eine weitere Karte, um in diesen Bereichen den Kleber ein weiteres Mal durchzutrennen.
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Beginne, die obere Seite des Bildschirms nach oben vom Gehäuse zu entfernen.
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Während du den Bildschirm mit einer Hand nach oben hältst, trenne mit der anderen Hand das Stromkabel, welches zum Bildschirm führt.
Mark all cable connectors with a spot of white correction fluid before removal. This will remove the risk, when reinserting them later, of getting them the wrong way round. Yes - I know they will only plug in one way round, but it does make life easier if you are not in perfect lighting!
At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.
I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.
Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.
The display cable, the wider one, has a lock on it , usually a plastic tape lift tab to release it, once thats flipped it should come out fairly easily, if your experiencing resistance and the cable isn’t coming out then check for this lock/latch, the power cable just pulls out, just don’t rush it everything should go fine, fairly easy to do with the end result a working iMac
Is it possible to replace the power cable if its damaged? I can’t seem to find anything about this.
After finishing my hard drive replacement I reconnected these connectors to test my display before using new adhesive. Everything was working beautifully. But then when I applied the new adhesive and went to seal the display on for good - the display power cable somehow became disconnected! I had to reopen the Mac for a second time which was far more difficult with new adhesive. When reinstalling double and triple check that the cables are securely inserted before the final seal. Sounds obvious but it’s quite the annoyance if something goes wrong at this point.
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Klappe die Metalllasche am Anschluss des Bildschirm-Datenkabels um.
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Trenne das Kabel vom Logic Board.
I replaced HDD to SSD and assembled parts again. When I boot up the iMac, I found black lines on display (looks partly not broken).
I searched Internet, and some says graphic card problem, but I didn't touch anything but cable to lift up.
Could the damaged display data cable cause this situation? I hope I could fix this by just replacing the cables..
Sorry, Black lines is a damaged display assembly ;-{ In the process of removing it you either pushed the tool into deep or you torqued the glass severing the tiny wire traces.
Dan -
Same trouble here, is it cable trouble or connector trouble?
Sorry damaged display
Dan -
I think whenever words like "...is a delicate connection that can be broken. Be sure to pull the [cable in a certain direction] ANYTIME.... It is worth either a closeup or 2, maybe one with annotations or insertion directions and maybe a motion direction arrow with the something like and 'X' char or a circle division slash over the wrong one.
I agree! +1
Yes, John is absolutely correct on this one. I damaged the display cable trying to get it back in. A close up would have helped and now my computer might have actually been fixed.
[|There are 2 cables to disconnect on my Mac (?). Also, I don’t see a metal retaining bracket. I can take a picture, but cannot attach. I got the glass loose with no problem, but am worried about damaging the cables]
Hi Jim! You can go to our Answers Forum to post some better images of your situation!
At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.
I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.
Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.
First: During reassembly, I highly recommend you connect these cables and do a test boot BEFORE you remove the protective tape on the adhesive strips. That way you can fix any issues(like a damaged cable) if something is not right and you have not re-glued the screen back down which will cause a problem. If you have a second person and everything is working after test boot, you can just leave the cables connected, lift the bottom of the screen and have 2nd person pull the protective tape on the adhesive strips and you can set the screen in place. Second I damaged the video data cable during reassembly on my late 2015 iMac- I did not get the connector straight and I damaged the wires on the cable. I recommend you have someone else hold the screen while you attach the cables - they are fragile. Luckily, the data cable was easily replaced for only about $20. If you must do this by yourself, just be careful I highly recommend have 2 people at this step during reassembly.
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Hebe den Bildschirm bis in eine fast senkrechte Position an.
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Entferne so viel vom Klebstoff wie möglich. Fasse ihn dazu an den Außenkanten an und ziehe oder rolle ihn nach innen.
Thanks Stef, this has saved me! Simple yet very effective.
Yep, I cracked the lower corner of the display as well. I failed to work the adhesive enough to loosen it sufficiently. Be careful, I just had to buy my customer another screen!
There seems to be missing a step or two. As I was removing the old display, there are two wires that need to get transferred to the new replacement display. There is not note about these two wires located at the top of the display. The 1.128-inch ribbon cable and then this other 4-inch long, two-wire cable that goes to a very small circuit board that is 1/4 by 3/8 of an inch and seems to be adhered to the panel.I have not been able to get this cable off the old display. There is a port for it on the replacement display.
Note: When ordering this screen, and plastic cards as noted tools, ifixit.com did not list the pizza cutter or the new replacement adhesive strips. So now I’m not sure how to get the new one on and secure.
The adhesive strip along the bottom is designed with a pull tab on each outer end. Rather than lever and pull the screen simply carefully pull the tab which removes that half of the lower adhesive strip and frees up the screen.
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Wenn nötig, kann eine Plastikkarte helfen, den übriggebliebenen Kleber zu lösen.
Would have been helpful to box the same red area when using the plastic card to separate the glue. Since the red blocked picture is inverted, if someone doesn't pay close attention it may not be obvious that the area of concern is at the right top of the graphic pictures in which the plastic card use is being demonstrated..
you don't need to cut the bottom part as the bottom tape is stuck on each side and you can easily pull it out
[|I opened up my iMac and there’s no HDD or SSD in that spot. its just empty.]
Please update the picture to include the RED BOXED IN AREA that you refer to on all three pictures in this step. I have had a few zaps from these supplies and it is not pleasant.
J’ai réussi à intervenir dans l’iMac sans décoller l’ensemble de l’écran. Je l’ai ouvert en laissant la dernière partie collée (vers le logo Apple) et qui sert comme une charnière. Bien calé et assuré l’écran n’a pas bougé et j’ai pu changer mon disque dur facilement. Le grand avantage et d’avoir l’écran toute suite juste quand on le recolle par la suite.
Well, I of course touched a soldering point in the red area as my hand slipped. I heard and felt a tiny “click” and after replacing the HDD with SSD etc I can not power the iMac up anymore. Not a sign of life :-( I suppose I broke the power supply. Can someone confirm? Or could something else have broken too?
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Hebe den Bildschirm aus dem Rahmen nach oben und entferne ihn anschließend aus dem iMac. Lege das Display auf eine flache und weiche Oberfläche mit dem Bildschirm nach unten.
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Möglicherweise musst du an einer Seite anfangen, den Bildschirm langsam anzuheben, um den Rest des Klebebandes zu lösen.
You really should be using film handling or surgical type gloves to handle the screen to minimise finger grease on any of it. Even if it’s possible to clean most of it off, it can be corrosive over time.
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Wenn sich ein Kabel oder ein Draht unter einem Klebeband befinden, dann ziehe das Klebeband immer vorher ab.
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Wenn das Kabel am Rahmen festgeklebt ist, dann musst du erst die Klebestelle mit einem iOpener oder einem Haartrockner erwärmen. Du kannst dann ein Plektrum unter das Kabel schieben und es ablösen. Ziehe niemals direkt an empfindlichenh Steckern.
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Schiebe ein Plektrum unter die Schaumstoffformteile, um sie vom Display abzulösen und ziehe sie vorsichtig ab. Eventuell musst du sie mit doppelseitigem Klebeband am neuen Display befestigen.
Be extremely careful removing the LCD Temp Sensor from the rear of the screen. If you pull the wire, you run the risk of severing the metal wire from the connector but not notice it because the surrounding plastic insulation may still be intact. Use a razor blade so “shave off” the sensor under the adhesive. I just had the screen replaced by a local shop and, upon boot, the fan was running full-speed and the Mac’s speed was miserable; Excel took 30 bounces in the Dock to launch rather than the expected 4-5. Novabench showed the Mac running at 4% of its expected speed (overall). The tech examined the sensor carefully, found the broken connection, soldered it back into place, and all was fine. Note that the (partially disconnected) sensor actually showed up when I ran Macs Fan Control in an attempt to work-around this. No problem controlling the fan speed then but the iMac’s running speed was awful until the disconnected sensor wire was fixed.
Hi barryjaylevine,
I’ve had my LCD replaced on my iMac 27 / 2013 and there is no LCD Temp Sensor cable on the replacement screen.
I’m experiencing the same performance issues.
I’ve ordered a new sensor, do you have any pointers as to how to install it?
Thanks,
Simon
UK
hey Simon, I used 2-sided tape….this is assuming the new sensor doesn’t already come with an adhesive surface already applied.
a roll of kapton tape for your own peace of mind will make sure nothing detaches from thermally-induced adhesive crystallization
make sure you position it in such a way that you can easily plug the lead back into the mobo….not a lot of length to that wire
Howdy folks,
Thanks for all the tips, LCD sensor fitted and iMac back in action.
Never again!
Simon
Hello all. So I’m trying to pinpoint my backlight issue on my 2015 retina 5k - I noticed I’m missing my thermal sensor on the LCD. Would this help with the backlight? I’m sure it will keep my fans from going crazy. Any help would be appreciated! Note: I have LEDs except the 4th one. Thanks!
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Reparaturen sind relativ schwierig, wenn der iMac aufrecht steht und man keine iMac Reparaturhilfe verwendet. Man kann den iMac zwar auch für Reparaturen hinlegen, jedoch ist es einfacher und schneller den iMac in aufgerichtetem Zustand zu reparieren.
La traduction française est tronquée : “…plus faciles avec une cale de maintien pour iMac”
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Entferne zwei 10.0 mm T10 Schrauben.
If you just want access to the HD, there is no need to remove any speaker wires - it slides over enough to access the HD screws.
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Ziehe das linke Lautsprecherkabel aus dem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board. Achte darauf, den Stecker gerade aus der Buchse zu ziehen.
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Entferne das Kabel aus der Lücke zwischen der Festplatte und dem Logic Board.
I didn’t unplug and de-route this cable. Later, Step 29, has you remove the left speaker. This isn’t necessary. If you can just move the speaker over to expose the hard drive mounting screws, so if you’re not going to remove the speaker, you don’t need to unplug it.
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Verwende einen Spudger, um den Netzstecker aus der Buchse auf dem Logic Board zu trennen.
there is no need to disconnect the speaker, just unscrew it and move aside slightly to reach the HDD screws (about 5mm) - if you want to replace just the main HDD
Take note of exactly what direction this tiny little wire was.
If I leave my iMac unplugged for an extended period, say 24 or 48 hours, is it still possible to get an electric shock from the PSU? Do the capacitors eventually discharge?
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Hebe den linken Lautsprecher gerade nach oben an, bis das An/Aus-Schalter-Kabel frei liegt (ca. 1,27 cm).
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Schiebe das Netzkabelkabel vorsichtig aus der Nut des linken Lautsprechers.
Pay attention: if pulling out the loudspeaker tear off the wire of the power button, Apple have not any service parts except for the whole rear housing!
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Hebe den linken Lautsprecher gerade nach oben und entferne ihn vom iMac.
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Ziehe an das Ende vom Konnektor während du den Lautsprecher entfernst, um den Kabel unter der rechten Abdeckung der Festplatte zu ziehen.
I found it wasn't necessary to remove the speaker from the left side to remove the hard drive. You can remove the screws, and then slide it over to the left — giving more than enough room to access the hard drive.
me too. don't need to remove it if you only want to change the hd
Agreed, wast of time to fully remove the speaker.
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Ziehe das SATA Daten-/Stromkabel gerade nach oben, um es von der Festplatte zu trennen.
Is the WD hard drive an Apple Special with some internal rom or other thing? Planning to put in a Seagate Firecuda 2TB. Is there some special plug or temperature sensor requirement? Seems like there is only the SATA connector. Will I encounter fast fans? (can load the software to stop that). Think it’s a swap and is “easy”.
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Entferne die beiden 7,3 mm T10 Schrauben, die die linke Festplattenhalterung am Gehäuse befestigen.
Thank you iFixit for sending a T10 with magnetic tip. You saved me!
The bracket screws are T10. The screws on the left side of the SILVER hard drive itself, are T8. If you seem to need a T8, you are actually trying to remove the wrong two screws. Look immediately to the left of the hard drive & you will see the BLACK bracket frame with two screws that use T10.
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Fasse die Festplatte und linke Festplattenhalterung zusammen.
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Kippe die linke Seite nach oben und weg vom Gehäuse und schiebe die ganze Einheit nach links.
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Entferne die Festplatte und die linke Festplattenhalterung vom iMac.
Two notes here: If you are using OWC’s Thermal Sensor HDD Upgrade Cable, be sure to tuck the cable under the hard drive slightly. You cannot allow the connector to sit near the top edge since this will not allow the monitor to sit flush with the chassis when it is reattached. Additionally, the SATA connector does not seem to fit together as snuggly as when it was connect to the HDD, so tape or a plastic cable tie to keep the connection tight may be good insurance to prevent it from coming loose.
If you are planning on dual booting with Windows 10, the Windows 10 installed failed when the SSD and HDD were both connected at the same time. I had to disconnect the HDD until Windows 10 was installed. Note: I did a fresh install on a new SSD not configured as a fusion drive. If you are planning on doing this as well, use packing tape (or something similar) to hold the monitor in place until after installing the OSs. Then reconnect the HDD and apply the adhesive to the monitor for a permanent seal. Good Luck!
Hi Walter, i’m looking to replace the broken fusion drive with a SSD, do i have to get the OWC’s Thermal Sensor HDD Upgrade Cable?
Full removal of the speaker is unnecessary - just very carefully unplug the two-conductor power button cable, which is routed through the groove along the edge of the speaker enclosure. Next, unfasten the two large torx screws holding the speaker enclosure to the chassis. Now you can easily scoot the speaker away from the drive mount - move it over just enough to reach the drive mount’s 2 torx fasteners beneath the edge of the speaker (a CM or two). There’s now enough room to easily remove and replace the drive assembly .
Just wondering if the HDD 3.5 (3TB) in my 2015 27’ 5K iMac case are the ones with the temp control firmware onboard. Just got quote from Auhorised repair centre for 2x the normal price of a 3TB drive. They say I can drop in one i source myself if I like but I don’t want to get it back and have the fans run all the time. Thanks in advance :)
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Entferne die linke Festplattenhalterung.
This step is unnecessary. Just leave the bracket in place and set the assembly aside.
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Um deinen iMac wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge, und benutze die Anleitung für Klebestreifen, um das Display wieder festzukleben.
Um deinen iMac wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge, und benutze die Anleitung für Klebestreifen, um das Display wieder festzukleben.
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40 Kommentare
I did successed this. But after just turn on, main fan spins faster than ordinary status. About 1600 rpm. Ordinary rpm is just 1200.
How can I fix it? Not by software solution(i.e., fan control app), help me by hardware solutions, plz.
*Replacement HDD : WDC WD40EZRX-00SPEB0
*iMac (Retina 5K, 27-inch, Late 2014)
*3.5 GHz Intel Core i5
*AMD Radeon R9 M290X 2048 MB
Dear Changwon, i also own a Retina imac (i7 Radeon 295). Harddisk has been changed by the distributor – they sell customized "Edition iMacs". Now i have the same problem as you subscribed - from day one. Fan speeds up to 1700 / 1750 rpm after a few seconds after power on. Next week my Apple certified distributor will check my iMac and hopefully fix that "noisy" problem. I will inform you, when we will be successful ... Have a great time so long. Greetings, Markus (mr@i-map.de)
Markus -
Did you use a original HDD with apple Firmware or a normal HDD? If u use a nomal HDD with non apple Firmware, you have the Fan Problem.
Klausi -
This may work:
So is it possible to replace the harddrive with an SSD drive?
I was surprised to read that the iMac has an SSD and a HDD?
I guess that is how the Fusion Drive works? "In software"?
I thought the Flash would be part of the HDD case and not seperatly on the logic board?
same problem , now have dual drives, not the fusion drive. been looking online for the last few days but all of the how to's don't actually help. I can't unmount the GD original drive to fuse them
Anyone know of a GOOD how to on using the terminal to make this a fictional Fusion Drive? I can't get mine to unmount, been trying for 2 days
I've used this twice to rebuild the core storage and create the Fusion drive::
http://apple.stackexchange.com/questions...
It requires you to wipe/reinstall but its worked fine for me running Yosemite and El Capitan.
If your 5k Imac only came with an SSD will the mounting brackets for a standard HDD be available when I open it up?
I too have this same question. Can I ADD a HD to an iMac Retina if factory configured with SSD? Is the bracket in there? Or the SATA cable? If not, does ifixit sell a kit to do this?
+1 on this. Any teardowns of a SSD-only 5K iMac yet?
I have some good news everyone. i have the late 2015 imac that was purchased ONLY with a 512 SSD WITHOUT fusion drive. i was also wondering the same thing and i can happily report that the new late 2015 iMACs DO HAVE THE BRACKETS IN PLACE. the more challenging piece was to find the custom SATA cable. i was finally able to get one used from powerbookmedic. the apple part number you need is 923-00092. another challenge was finding the hard drive mounting pins that go into the hard drive. After all however i installed a 5tb drive and i am waiting for my thermal sensor to reduce fan speeds. this is great news since i've been trying to find an answer for this myself FOR MONTHS!!
JDoes -
I talked with Apple Forum official Apple store in
Sweden today, and a seller there agreed that it was
possible to do an after sales custom modification
of a newly delivered Retina 27 Imac (512 GB or
1 TB) flash-PCIe-SSD only with (for example) an
additional 2 TB eSATA-SSD - but that this was
likely to cost like twice as much as buying the
additional SSD yourself ... .
So the implication is that a new Retina 27 Imac
with (512 GB or 1 TB) flash-PCIe-SSD as only
storage has a free eSATA-storage slot ... .
Anyone knows what's different between normal HDD and this apple HDD? I also want change my 1T HDD with larger ones (2T etc) due to current one was almost full. If changed it does the fan speed become high? Where can I buy apple HDD? Has anyone intalled that OWC In-line Digital Thermal Sensor with normal HDD?
Made the same mistake of going to with the FUSION Drive, the limited SSD compare to the previous version is really noticiable.
I maxed out my ram to 64gb and it felt slower than my macbook Air.
The reason why APPLE charge double is to cover replacement charge of a new display.
Even though I am some techie, I have broken my share of apple display screen. I took it to an certified Apple repair shop for an upgrade on my late
2015 imac, tech must of had issue with step 18-19. Came in for a hard drive replacement, came out with 3 inch grey vertical line.
I can't find where to purchase an Apple Authentic HDD. Additionally, I'd like to put a higher capacity HDD in my iMac anyway.
<p>
At the top of this article, under the parts section, there is an "iMac Intel 27" 5K Late 2014 and Mid 2015 Hard Drive Cable" for $19.95 listed. Does this cable eliminate the high revolution fan problem? Or does one need to use OWC's "In-line Digital Thermal Sensor"?
<p>
Anyone have experience with these cables? Has anyone replaced their HDD with a 2TB or 4TB drive and not had fan problems without getting such a cable?
I have the identical question and browsing on this site and other sites couldn' find an answer.
What exactly besides the tools for the replacement I have to have/buy in order to avoid fan issue if I upgrade HDD with "non-Apple" HDD on my 2015 iMac 27 Retina?
Hi All.
Can someone pls help clarify the firmware situation for me pls? I have a 27 inch 5K late 2014 iMac and the 3TB fusion drive has failed.
I have managed to determine that the conventional drive is the part at fault and I want to change it, but I am reading about custom firmware's. Is this true? or am I able to just swap out for a new "off the shelf" Western Digital 3TB drive?
If it is true about the firmware how do I get a compatible drive and how do i install the custom firmware.
If I buy an identical drive to the 3TB Seagate drive, Can i just swap over the circuit board from the dead drive? Would that contain the custom firmware?
Thank you for any advise you can offer.
I've just successfully finished this. I bought iMac 27" 5K Late 2014 with an SSD, without any HDD / Fusion drive.
First of all, big kudos to the author, I can't imaging doing it without the detailed steps including high resolution images.
As I struggled to find some details when ordering the parts here's for anyone looking for more information:
- Buy all the recommended tools, they are life-savers. Also buy the Adhesive Strips set.
- If you are adding an SSD drive to the SATA bay (Crucial in my case), you won't need the thermal sensor cable. At least I can't see that the fan would be going any high after installing the drive. (I'm on macOS Sierra.)
- If you don't have a HDD in your iMac yet (like me, I only had the PCIe SSD), you will also need the iMac hard drive cable as it is not in. It is the one that they are selling here on iFixit. (I had to order it from elsewhere as it was sold out)
!!! To attach the SATA cable, you will need to disassemble everything including the mother board.
To install the hard drive SATA cable, you will need to follow this (longer) guide: iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display Blade SSD ersetzen
One more thing you will need to order: the 4 hard drive pins / screws. Some websites sell them.
We don't have guides yet for the 2017 version, but from what I can tell the procedure is very nearly identical. You should be able to perform the swap using this guide and a little extra caution, especially if you have any past experience with iMac repair.
Also if replacing the hard drive with a ssd drive are there any cables or enclosure that should be purchased? Trying to put in an evo 850.
Depends on the iMac you have. For 2017 iMac you dont need any extra cables.
I'd like to replace my drive (I believe it has malfunctioned). What brand/make of drive should I buy to replace it so that it functions as it did prior to the drive failure? I don't want to break the Fusion capability nor the any other functionality. Any thoughts would be appreciated!
I just completed this on a mid-2017 iMac & all went well except for the fact that even though I replaced a Seagate with another Seagate (1TB to 3TB), the fan was constantly on full blast. So, I had to buy the OWC dongle and open up the iMac again to install it. Just completed that & now all seems well, nice & quiet!
Hi Matthew, can u explain to me what was wrong with a new 3TB (SSD?) hd, and what is it OWC dongle? cheers Tom
Would like to add one more point. Just completed it today but then the foam tape is no longer sticky enough to hold the screen. I almost broke the screen because of this. So it may be useful to add some double-sided tape on the edges of the case after the operation.
Hi Colin! This is precisely why the guide ends with “To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse and use our adhesive strip replacement guide to reattach the display glass.” You’ll need to get new adhesive, remove the old adhesive, apply the replacement, test the device, and seal it back up! Best of luck!
Hello all, I know this is quite old but I just replaced the drive to my 27 5k iMac 2014 and I didn’t need the SATA enclosure OR the expensive OWC Temp sensor! I was concerned cuz it was $40 and seemed like a rip-off. I bought a Samsung 860 Evo 1TB and decided to plug it and try it. If it gave me a jet engine fan I’d bite the bullet and buy the sensor. To my surprise fans were fine and I just used double sided 3M tape to tape the drive to the rear casing. So far no issues!
after having reassembled the monitor a white halo appears in the lower left corner, perceptible only when the monitor transmits a black image, from what can it be depended?
Probably what I just commented below
PLEASE NOTE !!!
DO NOT PUSH THE CARDS IN MORE THAN 1CM!!!! IT WILL DAMAGE THE FRAGILE RIBBONS FOR THE LCD.
I did just that, and found my way to the many threads with this issue.
all of which, including myself, needs to cough up $500 for a replacement lcd assembly.
FFS!
Would a heat gun make this step easier? Or damage the iMac?
Clark Green - Antwort
A heat gun wouldn’t help you here as you still need to cut though the adhesive. You also risk damaging the display with the excessive heat.
Dan -
Removing the original adhesive is easier than removing newly applied adhesive (e.g., if you have to reopen iMac). If you should happen to need to reopen the iMac, please use extreme caution and highly consider my suggestions below.
When using the pizza cutter tool, do the first few steps in reverse starting with step 8. Starting on the left side is better since this is where the adhesive is narrowest. The right side has two antennas and the top right has one, see the pictures for step 18-21, they are the brass colored metal rectangles near the edges. The adhesive on these pieces are wider and therefore have more holding power. The thickness of the pizza cutter tool is enough to crack the glass.
Walter Hayden - Antwort
Continuing from my previous comment. To remove the adhesive on the right side you’ll need to create a very slight gap to give the pizza cutter some more room. Do this by cutting the adhesive on the left side up and around to the camera. Before attempting to cut the right side. Carefully slide the plastic cards (I purchased two sets) to ensure the adhesive on the left top and side is completely free. Now slowly move towards the right side. After every inch or two of removing new adhesive, slide the card over to create this slight gap. Be careful to not move the card too close to where the adhesive has not been cut. You want to create a very slight gap without creating too much pressure. Use extra caution with approaching the areas where the antenna are since the adhesive is stronger here and will need some additional cutting. Follow this approach all the way around the right side. Be careful to not create too much pressure at any one time. Good Luck!.
Walter Hayden - Antwort
I can confirm with Walter - trying to remove freshly applied adhesive is WAAAAY harder! My pizza cutter didn’t work correctly (the circle became a rectangle!) and I ended up with a small crack on the left of my screen. Dang it!
Benon Koebsch -
I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.
Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.
Luke Gibson - Antwort
I performed this on a Late 2015 iMac and there weren’t any significant differences to these steps, but I did find the repair to be nerve-wracking. My model cost nearly $3,000 and about 10 steps into this guide (which I did fully read ahead of time) I was thinking, “what have I got myself into?” But I didn’t rush and happily I’m typing this on my repaired iMac! I found a video from OWC that was more useful than the photos in this guide for certain steps: https://vimeo.com/139364064
Anthony Zimmerman - Antwort
First impressions so far: yes it can be a bit nerve wrecking if it is your first time doing this sort of thing and even with lots of experience with a 2011 model it’s still a bit unsettling haha (nervous laughter).
What I recommend: use a guitar pick to start cutting the glue. You’ll need a bit of pressure so do just the tip.
Once you’ve done the whole perimeter (minus bottom) do it again but now it should be easier to go deeper so go very slow and careful. Then get the old suction cups used to open older models and start lifting the display very carefully to see where it’s still glued and cut those as well.
Then you should be done and now the real fun begins! :D
Carlos Ferrari - Antwort
It’s ridiculous. Apple should pay for doing this. Like glue parts together to block a repair / make difficult. I smashed my iMac. FU Apple. Seriously, every product I owned had hardware issues. For example, bad solder joints. Never again Apple. I’m happy with Windows and in 2018 / 2019 there are many other manufacturers with high quality stuff. Apple is dying, if they do not change …
Depple - Antwort
NOTE: I followed every step word for word, but the adhesive strips supplied are as bad as double sided tape. Within 48hours the screen had slipped off and cracked. Now I need to fork out for a new screen and try again.
Not sure what to try next time with strips? Perhaps a bit of glue to help hold it??
Dan Kelly - Antwort
Where do i get the “iMac Opening Tool?” its neither in the list of tools nor could i find it on the tool page.
Patrick Cella - Antwort
Hi @snappadoodle! The opening tool is included in the adhesive kit included in the tool list, but you can purchase it separately here.
Sam Goldheart -