Einleitung

Wenn du die Festplatte austauschen willst, musst du zuerst das Display vom Rahmen trennen und den linken Lautsprecher entfernen.

'''Bevor du am iMac arbeitet: Ziehe den Netzstecker und drücke den Einschaltknopf mindestens 10 sec lang, um die Kondensatoren des Netzteils zu entladen.'''

Sei sehr vorsichtig und berühre keine Anschlüsse der Kondensatoren und auch keine der Lötstellen auf der Netzplatine.

  1. Beginne an der linken Seite des Bildschirms, auf der Seite der Ein-/Aus-Taste, und schiebe das iMac Opening Tool zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse.
    • Beginne an der linken Seite des Bildschirms, auf der Seite der Ein-/Aus-Taste, und schiebe das iMac Opening Tool zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse.

    • Das iMac Opening Tool verhindert, dass es zu tief in das Gerät gesteckt wird. Solltest du jedoch ein anderes Werkzeug benutzen, stelle sicher, dass du es nicht weiter als 9,5 mm in den iMac steckst. Es besteht sonst die Gefahr, Antennenkabel oder andere Komponenten zu beschädigen.

    Would a heat gun make this step easier? Or damage the iMac?

    Clark Green - Antwort

    A heat gun wouldn’t help you here as you still need to cut though the adhesive. You also risk damaging the display with the excessive heat.

    Dan -

    Removing the original adhesive is easier than removing newly applied adhesive (e.g., if you have to reopen iMac).  If you should happen to need to reopen the iMac, please use extreme caution and highly consider my suggestions below.

    When using the pizza cutter tool, do the first few steps in reverse starting with step 8.  Starting on the left side is better since this is where the adhesive is narrowest.  The right side has two antennas and the top right has one, see the pictures for step 18-21, they are the brass colored metal rectangles near the edges.  The adhesive on these pieces are wider and therefore have more holding power.  The thickness of the pizza cutter tool is enough to crack the glass.

    Walter Hayden - Antwort

    Continuing from my previous comment.  To remove the adhesive on the right side you’ll need to create a very slight gap to give the pizza cutter some more room.  Do this by cutting the adhesive on the left side up and around to the camera.  Before attempting to cut the right side. Carefully slide the plastic cards (I purchased two sets) to ensure the adhesive on the left top and side is completely free.  Now slowly move towards the right side.  After every inch or two of removing new adhesive, slide the card over to create this slight gap.  Be careful to not move the card too close to where the adhesive has not been cut.  You want to create a very slight gap without creating too much pressure.  Use extra caution with approaching the areas where the antenna are since the adhesive is stronger here and will need some additional cutting.  Follow this approach all the way around the right side.  Be careful to not create too much pressure at any one time.  Good Luck!.

    Walter Hayden - Antwort

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - Antwort

    I performed this on a Late 2015 iMac and there weren’t any significant differences to these steps, but I did find the repair to be nerve-wracking. My model cost nearly $3,000 and about 10 steps into this guide (which I did fully read ahead of time) I was thinking, “what have I got myself into?” But I didn’t rush and happily I’m typing this on my repaired iMac! I found a video from OWC that was more useful than the photos in this guide for certain steps: https://vimeo.com/139364064

    Anthony Zimmerman - Antwort

  2. Benutze das Werkzeug wie einen Pizzaschneider - rolle es entlang des Schlitzes zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse und es wird den Kleber durchschneiden.
    • Benutze das Werkzeug wie einen Pizzaschneider - rolle es entlang des Schlitzes zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse und es wird den Kleber durchschneiden.

    • Stelle sicher, dass du den Griff immer hinter dem Rad hinterher schiebst. Ansonsten könnte das Rad aus dem Griff herausrutschen.

    • Fahre mit dem Werkzeug entlang der linken Gehäuseseite.

    I found the 'pizza cutter' surprisingly smooth at cutting through four-year-old adhesive.

    Gerry - Antwort

    • Fahre mit dem Werkzeug um die obere linke Ecke.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Schneide den Kleber entlang der oberen linken Gehäuseseite durch.

    The pizza cutter will sink in all the way to the tool handle when the adhesive is full cut, but don’t feel you have to do this in one motion. Some parts cut easier and some require a lot (like 20x) of gentle back and forth.

    Anthony Zimmerman - Antwort

    • Zerschneide den Kleber weiter entlang der oberen Gehäuseseite.

    • Du solltest mit dem Gerät immer etwas vor- und zurückrollen durch den Teil, den du bereits durchgeschnitten hast, um so viel wie möglich von dem Kleber zu lösen.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Fahre nun um die obere rechte Ecke mit dem Werkzeug.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Fahre mit dem Werkzeug entlang der rechten Gehäuseseite abwärts.

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    • Schneide den Rest des Klebers an der rechten Seite des Gehäuses bis ganz nach unten durch.

    • Jetzt solltest du das Werkzeug noch einmal zurück um das Gerät schieben, um so viel wie möglich von dem Kleber zu lösen.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Das Opening Tool hat schon den größten Teil der Arbeit erledigt, jedoch klebt der Bildschirm immer noch etwas am Gehäuse. Eine Plastikkarte ist nötig, um noch den letzten Rest an Kleber zu lösen.

    • Lege den iMac mit dem Bildschirm nach oben auf einen Tisch.

    • Beginne an der oberen rechten Seite des iMacs und schiebe eine Plastikkarte zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse.

      • Sei vorsichtig und stelle sicher, dass du die Karten nicht weiter als 9,5 mm in den iMac steckst. Es besteht sonst die Gefahr, Antennenkabel oder andere Komponenten zu beschädigen.

    I actually DESTROYED my display (black vertical strips) by pushing the card in a bit TOO DEEP. So it is REALLY important to insert the card only a bit (1-2mm) more than the cutter wheel, in particular at the top side, where many flat cables connect the panel with the PCB. These can be damaged very easily!

    Peter Fischer - Antwort

    Same thing with me…. Pushed cards to far…. new panel needed…€600…..

    i think ifixit needs to place a bigger caveat, as I have missed it the first time

    Edgar Broekema - Antwort

    i successfully upgraded two imacs. one opened with ifixit pizza knife and another with a regular paper knife. however, when i had to open the first one once again i broke its screen glass. it seems ifixit adhesive strips are too strong. next time i’ll try to use heater to weaken glue tension.

    Eugene Kharkov - Antwort

    • Verdrehe die Plastikkarte leicht, um den Abstand zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse zu vergrößern. Trenne allen Kleber in der Nähe der Ecke auf.

    • Zu viel Kraft kann das Display zerbrechen. Arbeite vorsichtig. Versuche nicht, den Spalt mehr als 6 mm breit zu machen.

    My children tend to collect cards like this from hotels, Disneyland, old IDs, iTunes cards, gift cards etc. They came in handy for this step. After wedging in the first card into the left corner, I wedged the left corner, then added cards along the bottom edge. Finally I continued to push in additional cards to existing cards and found that this created a smooth even pressure along the display top. At 2-3 card-thickness the last of the adhesive let go, gentle as a baby.

    Anthony Zimmerman - Antwort

    • Höre vor der iSight Kamera auf, den Kleber durchzutrennen. Ansonsten besteht die Gefahr, sie zu beschädigen.

    • Schiebe die Karte in Richtung der Bildschirmmitte, um den Rest des Klebers durchzutrennen.

    was denn jetzt? Vor der Kamera aufhören, oder in Richtung Bildschirmmitte schieben, um DEN REST zu entfernen? Wenn ich vor der Kamera aufhöre, kann ich nicht alles an Kleber entfernen.

    Julia S. - Antwort

    • Schiebe die Karte zurück in die Ecke des Bildschirms und lasse sie dort stecken, um zu verhindern, dass der Kleber den Bildschirm wieder festklebt.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

  3. Frohes Fest, frohes Tüfteln
    Pack's ein, pack's aus, pack's an: Erhalte 12 € Rabatt auf deinen Einkauf ab 50 € mit dem Code FIXMAS12
    Frohes Fest, frohes Tüfteln
    Pack's ein, pack's aus, pack's an: Erhalte 12 € Rabatt auf deinen Einkauf ab 50 € mit dem Code FIXMAS12
    • Schiebe eine zweite Karte zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse an der oberen linken Seite.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Drehe die Karte leicht, um den Abstand zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse zu vergrößern.

    • Genau wie an der anderen Seite, bewege die Karte nur langsam, damit der Kleber genügend Zeit hat, um sich zu lösen, und das Glas nicht überbeansprucht wird.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Schiebe die Plastikkarte in Richtung Mitte und höre wieder vor der Mitte auf, um die iSight Kamera nicht zu beschädigen.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Schiebe die Karte wieder an die obere, linke Ecke und lasse sie dort stecken.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Hebe den Bildschirm nur einige Zentimeter an. Er ist immer noch mit dem Logic Board des iMacs mit Kabeln verbunden.

    • Wie im Bild gezeigt, inseriere die Karten zwischen Bildschirm und Gehäuse und fange an, diese leicht zu drehen, um den Abstand zwischen Gehäuse und Bildschirm zu vergrößern.

    • Wenn Teile des Bildschirms sich nicht zu lösen scheinen, dann nimm eine weitere Karte, um in diesen Bereichen den Kleber ein weiteres Mal durchzutrennen.

    • Beginne, die obere Seite des Bildschirms nach oben vom Gehäuse zu entfernen.

    I would recommend using suction cups at this stage to lift the display.

    Marco De Palma - Antwort

    • Während du den Bildschirm mit einer Hand nach oben hältst, trenne mit der anderen Hand das Stromkabel, welches zum Bildschirm führt.

      • Hebe den Bildschirm zwar so weit an, dass du genug Platz hast, um an den Anschluss zu kommen, jedoch nicht so weit, dass du das Kabel dehnst und den Anschluss beanspruchst (~20cm).

    Mark all cable connectors with a spot of white correction fluid before removal. This will remove the risk, when reinserting them later, of getting them the wrong way round. Yes - I know they will only plug in one way round, but it does make life easier if you are not in perfect lighting!

    Alastair Lack - Antwort

    At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - Antwort

    The display cable, the wider one, has a lock on it , usually a plastic tape lift tab to release it, once thats flipped it should come out fairly easily, if your experiencing resistance and the cable isn’t coming out then check for this lock/latch, the power cable just pulls out, just don’t rush it everything should go fine, fairly easy to do with the end result a working iMac

    Ed tabickman - Antwort

    • Klappe die Metalllasche am Anschluss des Bildschirm-Datenkabels um.

    • Trenne das Kabel vom Logic Board.

      • Dies ist ein empfindlicher Anschluss, der relativ einfach beschädigt werden kann. Ziehe das Kabel gerade zur oberen Kante des iMacs aus dem Anschluss heraus.

    I replaced HDD to SSD and assembled parts again. When I boot up the iMac, I found black lines on display (looks partly not broken).

    I searched Internet, and some says graphic card problem, but I didn't touch anything but cable to lift up.

    Could the damaged display data cable cause this situation? I hope I could fix this by just replacing the cables..

    chansung park - Antwort

    Sorry, Black lines is a damaged display assembly ;-{ In the process of removing it you either pushed the tool into deep or you torqued the glass severing the tiny wire traces.

    Dan -

    Same trouble here, is it cable trouble or connector trouble?

    redfoxydarrest - Antwort

    Sorry damaged display

    Dan -

    I think whenever words like "...is a delicate connection that can be broken. Be sure to pull the [cable in a certain direction] ANYTIME.... It is worth either a closeup or 2, maybe one with annotations or insertion directions and maybe a motion direction arrow with the something like and 'X' char or a circle division slash over the wrong one.

    john - Antwort

    I agree! +1

    Jim Reitz -

    [|There are 2 cables to disconnect on my Mac (?). Also, I don’t see a metal retaining bracket. I can take a picture, but cannot attach. I got the glass loose with no problem, but am worried about damaging the cables]

    Jim Kelly - Antwort

    Hi Jim! You can go to our Answers Forum to post some better images of your situation!

    Sam Lionheart -

    At this step, if you mess up anything with these 2 cables, especially when plugging them back in, even if you think you’re following the instructions here to a T, then you’re screwed.

    I would highly, highly, highly recommend AGAINST doing this at home. I followed these instructions to a T, and still somehow managed to have the screen not be able to turn on after the hard drive replacement. Then, once you’ve opened your Mac yourself, Apple will refuse to fix anything on the computer, and even other third party, Apple-authorized repair facility will refuse to repair it for you, and you will have to locate a non-authorized Apple repair facility. There, I am having to pay ~$600 to fix things that got screwed up, even though I followed the instructions here to a T, step by step, and did everything slowly and methodically.

    Beware, if you’ve never done this before, that be locked out of ever being able to use an Apple repair facility, or Apple-authorized repair facility, if you mess things up here now.

    Luke Gibson - Antwort

    Can anybody upload an image of how the display can get damaged from removing it? I find it hard to believe (though I’m reading the horror stories here) that a whole display can get damaged. Especially when many of us were following to a T and being VERY CAREFUL.

    Thanks.

    Bryan - Antwort

    • Hebe den Bildschirm bis in eine fast senkrechte Position an.

    • Es gibt immer noch einen Klebestreifen an der unteren Kante des Bildschirms, der den Bildschirm wie eine Art Scharnier mit dem Gehäuse verbindet. Klappe den Bildschirm einige Male auf und zu, um den Kleber zu lösen.

    • Entferne so viel vom Klebstoff wie möglich. Fasse ihn dazu an den Außenkanten an und ziehe oder rolle ihn nach innen.

    Thank you Stef, that's what i will do next time, i cracked the lower part of the screen went opening very slowly, that's probably why those "tabs are for !!

    dforgues - Antwort

    Thanks Stef, this has saved me! Simple yet very effective.

    David Zemsky - Antwort

    Yep, I cracked the lower corner of the display as well. I failed to work the adhesive enough to loosen it sufficiently. Be careful, I just had to buy my customer another screen!

    Peter Haigh - Antwort

    There seems to be missing a step or two. As I was removing the old display, there are two wires that need to get transferred to the new replacement display. There is not note about these two wires located at the top of the display. The 1.128-inch ribbon cable and then this other 4-inch long, two-wire cable that goes to a very small circuit board that is 1/4 by 3/8 of an inch and seems to be adhered to the panel.I have not been able to get this cable off the old display. There is a port for it on the replacement display.

    Note: When ordering this screen, and plastic cards as noted tools, ifixit.com did not list the pizza cutter or the new replacement adhesive strips. So now I’m not sure how to get the new one on and secure.

    Todd Derek - Antwort

    The adhesive strip along the bottom is designed with a pull tab on each outer end. Rather than lever and pull the screen simply carefully pull the tab which removes that half of the lower adhesive strip and frees up the screen.

    Andrew Stephens - Antwort

    • Wenn nötig, kann eine Plastikkarte helfen, den übriggebliebenen Kleber zu lösen.

    • Berühre auf keinen Fall die Lötpunkte auf der Unterseite des Netzteils und die Beine der Kondensatoren. Es besteht Lebensgefahr! Das Netzteil ist in rot im dritten Bild markiert.

    Would have been helpful to box the same red area when using the plastic card to separate the glue. Since the red blocked picture is inverted, if someone doesn't pay close attention it may not be obvious that the area of concern is at the right top of the graphic pictures in which the plastic card use is being demonstrated..

    Wizbang FL - Antwort

    you don't need to cut the bottom part as the bottom tape is stuck on each side and you can easily pull it out

    Thomas Webb - Antwort

    What is the twisted wire taped to the back of the display that can bee seen in the upper right of the first two pictures? I have an 27” iMac without a screen an my replacement does not have this wire. I think it is a temperature sensor but do not know where it connects to.

    Eric - Antwort

    [|I opened up my iMac and there’s no HDD or SSD in that spot. its just empty.]

    John Warmann - Antwort

    Please update the picture to include the RED BOXED IN AREA that you refer to on all three pictures in this step. I have had a few zaps from these supplies and it is not pleasant.

    Charlie Nancarrow - Antwort

    • Sei vorsichtig bei der Handhabung des Bildschirms. Er ist groß, schwer und aus Glas. Die Kanten des Displays sind zerbrechlich. Vermeide es, ihn an den Ecken hochzuheben.

    • Hebe den Bildschirm aus dem Rahmen nach oben und entferne ihn anschließend aus dem iMac. Lege das Display auf eine flache und weiche Oberfläche mit dem Bildschirm nach unten.

    • Möglicherweise musst du an einer Seite anfangen, den Bildschirm langsam anzuheben, um den Rest des Klebebandes zu lösen.

    • Nachdem der Kleber durchschnitten worden ist, kann er nicht mehr zu Verkleben desDisplays verwendet werden. Folge dieser Anleitung, um nach der Reparatur die Klebestreifen zu ersetzen, welche das Display am rückseitigen Gehäuse befestigen.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Wenn du das Displaypanel austauschst, musst du wahrscheinlich einige Bauteile vom alten Panel auf das neue übertragen. Vergleiche die Rückseite des alten Panels mit dem neuen. Achte auf alle Kabel, Sensoren und Schaumstoffformteile, welche auf dem neuen Display fehlen.

      • Wenn sich ein Kabel oder ein Draht unter einem Klebeband befinden, dann ziehe das Klebeband immer vorher ab.

      • Wenn das Kabel am Rahmen festgeklebt ist, dann musst du erst die Klebestelle mit einem iOpener oder einem Haartrockner erwärmen. Du kannst dann ein Plektrum unter das Kabel schieben und es ablösen. Ziehe niemals direkt an empfindlichenh Steckern.

      • Schiebe ein Plektrum unter die Schaumstoffformteile, um sie vom Display abzulösen und ziehe sie vorsichtig ab. Eventuell musst du sie mit doppelseitigem Klebeband am neuen Display befestigen.

    Be extremely careful removing the LCD Temp Sensor from the rear of the screen. If you pull the wire, you run the risk of severing the metal wire from the connector but not notice it because the surrounding plastic insulation may still be intact. Use a razor blade so “shave off” the sensor under the adhesive. I just had the screen replaced by a local shop and, upon boot, the fan was running full-speed and the Mac’s speed was miserable; Excel took 30 bounces in the Dock to launch rather than the expected 4-5. Novabench showed the Mac running at 4% of its expected speed (overall). The tech examined the sensor carefully, found the broken connection, soldered it back into place, and all was fine. Note that the (partially disconnected) sensor actually showed up when I ran Macs Fan Control in an attempt to work-around this. No problem controlling the fan speed then but the iMac’s running speed was awful until the disconnected sensor wire was fixed.

    barryjaylevine - Antwort

    Hi barryjaylevine,

    I’ve had my LCD replaced on my iMac 27 / 2013 and there is no LCD Temp Sensor cable on the replacement screen.

    I’m experiencing the same performance issues.

    I’ve ordered a new sensor, do you have any pointers as to how to install it?

    Thanks,

    Simon

    UK

    simon kennedy -

    hey Simon, I used 2-sided tape….this is assuming the new sensor doesn’t already come with an adhesive surface already applied.

    a roll of kapton tape for your own peace of mind will make sure nothing detaches from thermally-induced adhesive crystallization

    make sure you position it in such a way that you can easily plug the lead back into the mobo….not a lot of length to that wire

    placebomessiah - Antwort

    Howdy folks,

    Thanks for all the tips, LCD sensor fitted and iMac back in action.

    Never again!

    Simon

    simon kennedy - Antwort

    • Reparaturen sind relativ schwierig, wenn der iMac aufrecht steht und man keine iMac Reparaturhilfe verwendet. Man kann den iMac zwar auch für Reparaturen hinlegen, jedoch ist es einfacher und schneller den iMac in aufgerichtetem Zustand zu reparieren.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Entferne zwei 10.0 mm T10 Schrauben.

    If you just want access to the HD, there is no need to remove any speaker wires - it slides over enough to access the HD screws.

    johann beda - Antwort

    • Ziehe das linke Lautsprecherkabel aus dem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board. Achte darauf, den Stecker gerade aus der Buchse zu ziehen.

    • Entferne das Kabel aus der Lücke zwischen der Festplatte und dem Logic Board.

    • Wenn die Lücke zwischen der Festplatte und dem Logic Board für das Lautsprecherkabel zu schmal ist, trenne es und lasse das Kabel an Ort und Stelle.

    I didn’t unplug and de-route this cable. Later, Step 29, has you remove the left speaker. This isn’t necessary. If you can just move the speaker over to expose the hard drive mounting screws, so if you’re not going to remove the speaker, you don’t need to unplug it.

    Anthony Zimmerman - Antwort

    • Achte darauf, keine Lötverbindungen auf der Rückseite der Stromversorgung zu berühren. Kondensatoren können genug aufgeladen sein, um dir einen gefährlichen Schock zu verpassen.

    • Verwende einen Spudger, um den Netzstecker aus der Buchse auf dem Logic Board zu trennen.

    Can someone explain what are the solder joint? Or tell me what it looks it?

    brianyu - Antwort

    The silver spots on the circuit boards. You may not want to tackle this alone. If you touch these areas, you can possible get a shock -- harming you and your computer.

    Robert -

    there is no need to disconnect the speaker, just unscrew it and move aside slightly to reach the HDD screws (about 5mm) - if you want to replace just the main HDD

    Thomas Webb - Antwort

    Take note of exactly what direction this tiny little wire was.

    Joseph Ashe - Antwort

    • Hebe den linken Lautsprecher gerade nach oben an, bis das An/Aus-Schalter-Kabel frei liegt (ca. 1,27 cm).

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Schiebe das Netzkabelkabel vorsichtig aus der Nut des linken Lautsprechers.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Hebe den linken Lautsprecher gerade nach oben und entferne ihn vom iMac.

    • Wenn die Lücke zwischen der Festplatte und dem Logic Board zu schmal war, um das Lautsprecherkabel vorhin freizulegen, ziehe es vorsichtig frei, während du den Lautsprecher entfernst.

      • Ziehe an das Ende vom Konnektor während du den Lautsprecher entfernst, um den Kabel unter der rechten Abdeckung der Festplatte zu ziehen.

    I found it wasn't necessary to remove the speaker from the left side to remove the hard drive. You can remove the screws, and then slide it over to the left — giving more than enough room to access the hard drive.

    Robert - Antwort

    me too. don't need to remove it if you only want to change the hd

    Alber Einsten -

    Agreed, wast of time to fully remove the speaker.

    Matthew Gonzalez -

    • Ziehe das SATA Daten-/Stromkabel gerade nach oben, um es von der Festplatte zu trennen.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Entferne die beiden 7,3 mm T10 Schrauben, die die linke Festplattenhalterung am Gehäuse befestigen.

    If you have the iMac sitting upright, there is a potential risk of dropping the screws into the iMac casing. Be cautious or lay it down flat.

    Robert - Antwort

    Been there done that. Had to flip it and shake the heck out of it to get that srew to fall out!

    webmail54 - Antwort

    Left hard drive bracket screws are T8!! Had to remove HD first before derouting left speaker cable.

    lamajr - Antwort

    • Fasse die Festplatte und linke Festplattenhalterung zusammen.

    • Kippe die linke Seite nach oben und weg vom Gehäuse und schiebe die ganze Einheit nach links.

    • Entferne die Festplatte und die linke Festplattenhalterung vom iMac.

    Two notes here:  If you are using OWC’s Thermal Sensor HDD Upgrade Cable, be sure to tuck the cable under the hard drive slightly.  You cannot allow the connector to sit near the top edge since this will not allow the monitor to sit flush with the chassis when it is reattached.  Additionally, the SATA connector does not seem to fit together as snuggly as when it was connect to the HDD, so tape or a plastic cable tie to keep the connection tight may be good insurance to prevent it from coming loose.

    If you are planning on dual booting with Windows 10, the Windows 10 installed failed when the SSD and HDD were both connected at the same time.  I had to disconnect the HDD until Windows 10 was installed.  Note: I did a fresh install on a new SSD not configured as a fusion drive.  If you are planning on doing this as well, use packing tape (or something similar) to hold the monitor in place until after installing the OSs.  Then reconnect the HDD and apply the adhesive to the monitor for a permanent seal.  Good Luck!

    Walter Hayden - Antwort

    Hi Walter, i’m looking to replace the broken fusion drive with a SSD, do i have to get the OWC’s Thermal Sensor HDD Upgrade Cable?

    Gregorio Alvarado Sahli -

    Full removal of the speaker is unnecessary - just very carefully unplug the two-conductor power button cable, which is routed through the groove along the edge of the speaker enclosure. Next, unfasten the two large torx screws holding the speaker enclosure to the chassis. Now you can easily scoot the speaker away from the drive mount - move it over just enough to reach the drive mount’s 2 torx fasteners beneath the edge of the speaker (a CM or two). There’s now enough room to easily remove and replace the drive assembly .

    clinton - Antwort

    • Entferne die linke Festplattenhalterung.

    This step is unnecessary. Just leave the bracket in place and set the assembly aside.

    Anthony Zimmerman - Antwort

Abschluss

Um deinen iMac wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge, und benutze die Anleitung für Klebestreifen, um das Display wieder festzukleben.

130 weitere Nutzer haben diese Anleitung absolviert.

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Sam Lionheart

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I did successed this. But after just turn on, main fan spins faster than ordinary status. About 1600 rpm. Ordinary rpm is just 1200.

How can I fix it? Not by software solution(i.e., fan control app), help me by hardware solutions, plz.

*Replacement HDD : WDC WD40EZRX-00SPEB0

*iMac (Retina 5K, 27-inch, Late 2014)

*3.5 GHz Intel Core i5

*AMD Radeon R9 M290X 2048 MB

Changwon - Antwort

Dear Changwon, i also own a Retina imac (i7 Radeon 295). Harddisk has been changed by the distributor – they sell customized "Edition iMacs". Now i have the same problem as you subscribed - from day one. Fan speeds up to 1700 / 1750 rpm after a few seconds after power on. Next week my Apple certified distributor will check my iMac and hopefully fix that "noisy" problem. I will inform you, when we will be successful ... Have a great time so long. Greetings, Markus (mr@i-map.de)

Markus -

Did you use a original HDD with apple Firmware or a normal HDD? If u use a nomal HDD with non apple Firmware, you have the Fan Problem.

Klausi -

And it just show 1.8TB but that HDD is 4TB.. :( Help me anybody..

Changwon - Antwort

What does the Festplattendienstprogramm says? Can you see the 4GB there?

Klausi -

So is it possible to replace the harddrive with an SSD drive?

I was surprised to read that the iMac has an SSD and a HDD?

I guess that is how the Fusion Drive works? "In software"?

I thought the Flash would be part of the HDD case and not seperatly on the logic board?

Thorsten - Antwort

same problem , now have dual drives, not the fusion drive. been looking online for the last few days but all of the how to's don't actually help. I can't unmount the GD original drive to fuse them

William Evans -

Anyone know of a GOOD how to on using the terminal to make this a fictional Fusion Drive? I can't get mine to unmount, been trying for 2 days

William Evans - Antwort

I've used this twice to rebuild the core storage and create the Fusion drive::

http://apple.stackexchange.com/questions...

It requires you to wipe/reinstall but its worked fine for me running Yosemite and El Capitan.

John McCarthy -

If your 5k Imac only came with an SSD will the mounting brackets for a standard HDD be available when I open it up?

Cameron Berry - Antwort

I too have this same question. Can I ADD a HD to an iMac Retina if factory configured with SSD? Is the bracket in there? Or the SATA cable? If not, does ifixit sell a kit to do this?

pauljschneider -

+1 on this. Any teardowns of a SSD-only 5K iMac yet?

shaolindave -

I have some good news everyone. i have the late 2015 imac that was purchased ONLY with a 512 SSD WITHOUT fusion drive. i was also wondering the same thing and i can happily report that the new late 2015 iMACs DO HAVE THE BRACKETS IN PLACE. the more challenging piece was to find the custom SATA cable. i was finally able to get one used from powerbookmedic. the apple part number you need is 923-00092. another challenge was finding the hard drive mounting pins that go into the hard drive. After all however i installed a 5tb drive and i am waiting for my thermal sensor to reduce fan speeds. this is great news since i've been trying to find an answer for this myself FOR MONTHS!!

JDoes -

I talked with Apple Forum official Apple store in

Sweden today, and a seller there agreed that it was

possible to do an after sales custom modification

of a newly delivered Retina 27 Imac (512 GB or

1 TB) flash-PCIe-SSD only with (for example) an

additional 2 TB eSATA-SSD - but that this was

likely to cost like twice as much as buying the

additional SSD yourself ... .

So the implication is that a new Retina 27 Imac

with (512 GB or 1 TB) flash-PCIe-SSD as only

storage has a free eSATA-storage slot ... .

Patrik Albin - Antwort

Hi,

I own a late 2015 imac 27" with 1Tb Fusion Drive. I want to replace the HDD by an standard SSD. Do I need to use the owc thermal sensor?

Michael S - Antwort

Anyone knows what's different between normal HDD and this apple HDD? I also want change my 1T HDD with larger ones (2T etc) due to current one was almost full. If changed it does the fan speed become high? Where can I buy apple HDD? Has anyone intalled that OWC In-line Digital Thermal Sensor with normal HDD?

Yao - Antwort

Made the same mistake of going to with the FUSION Drive, the limited SSD compare to the previous version is really noticiable.

I maxed out my ram to 64gb and it felt slower than my macbook Air.

The reason why APPLE charge double is to cover replacement charge of a new display.

Even though I am some techie, I have broken my share of apple display screen. I took it to an certified Apple repair shop for an upgrade on my late

2015 imac, tech must of had issue with step 18-19. Came in for a hard drive replacement, came out with 3 inch grey vertical line.

si bui - Antwort

I can't find where to purchase an Apple Authentic HDD. Additionally, I'd like to put a higher capacity HDD in my iMac anyway.

<p>

At the top of this article, under the parts section, there is an "iMac Intel 27" 5K Late 2014 and Mid 2015 Hard Drive Cable" for $19.95 listed. Does this cable eliminate the high revolution fan problem? Or does one need to use OWC's "In-line Digital Thermal Sensor"?

<p>

Anyone have experience with these cables? Has anyone replaced their HDD with a 2TB or 4TB drive and not had fan problems without getting such a cable?

Steven Bunnell - Antwort

I have the identical question and browsing on this site and other sites couldn' find an answer.

What exactly besides the tools for the replacement I have to have/buy in order to avoid fan issue if I upgrade HDD with "non-Apple" HDD on my 2015 iMac 27 Retina?

Nenad Stankovic -

If you just want to replace a broken screen, do you have to follow all the steps after the original screen is removed?

jujuhay - Antwort

Also I have a mac bought this year - will these instructions be suitable for it? The screen is broken!

jujuhay - Antwort

My screen shows a wide black line. What could it be? Cables or LCD display?

Arcano 17 - Antwort

Hi All.

Can someone pls help clarify the firmware situation for me pls? I have a 27 inch 5K late 2014 iMac and the 3TB fusion drive has failed.

I have managed to determine that the conventional drive is the part at fault and I want to change it, but I am reading about custom firmware's. Is this true? or am I able to just swap out for a new "off the shelf" Western Digital 3TB drive?

If it is true about the firmware how do I get a compatible drive and how do i install the custom firmware.

If I buy an identical drive to the 3TB Seagate drive, Can i just swap over the circuit board from the dead drive? Would that contain the custom firmware?

Thank you for any advise you can offer.

rossfarr - Antwort

I've just successfully finished this. I bought iMac 27" 5K Late 2014 with an SSD, without any HDD / Fusion drive.

First of all, big kudos to the author, I can't imaging doing it without the detailed steps including high resolution images.

As I struggled to find some details when ordering the parts here's for anyone looking for more information:

- Buy all the recommended tools, they are life-savers. Also buy the Adhesive Strips set.

- If you are adding an SSD drive to the SATA bay (Crucial in my case), you won't need the thermal sensor cable. At least I can't see that the fan would be going any high after installing the drive. (I'm on macOS Sierra.)

- If you don't have a HDD in your iMac yet (like me, I only had the PCIe SSD), you will also need the iMac hard drive cable as it is not in. It is the one that they are selling here on iFixit. (I had to order it from elsewhere as it was sold out)

!!! To attach the SATA cable, you will need to disassemble everything including the mother board.

David Zemsky - Antwort

To install the hard drive SATA cable, you will need to follow this (longer) guide: iMac Intel 27" Retina 5K Display Blade SSD ersetzen

One more thing you will need to order: the 4 hard drive pins / screws. Some websites sell them.

David Zemsky -

Are these instructions valid for the 2017 27 inch iMac?

Brandt - Antwort

We don't have guides yet for the 2017 version, but from what I can tell the procedure is very nearly identical. You should be able to perform the swap using this guide and a little extra caution, especially if you have any past experience with iMac repair.

Jeff Suovanen -

Also if replacing the hard drive with a ssd drive are there any cables or enclosure that should be purchased? Trying to put in an evo 850.

Brandt - Antwort

Depends on the iMac you have. For 2017 iMac you dont need any extra cables.

Dennis Sari -

I'd like to replace my drive (I believe it has malfunctioned). What brand/make of drive should I buy to replace it so that it functions as it did prior to the drive failure? I don't want to break the Fusion capability nor the any other functionality. Any thoughts would be appreciated!

Jay Macguyincali - Antwort

I just completed this on a mid-2017 iMac & all went well except for the fact that even though I replaced a Seagate with another Seagate (1TB to 3TB), the fan was constantly on full blast. So, I had to buy the OWC dongle and open up the iMac again to install it. Just completed that & now all seems well, nice & quiet!

Matthew Gonzalez - Antwort

Hi Matthew, can u explain to me what was wrong with a new 3TB (SSD?) hd, and what is it OWC dongle? cheers Tom

Tom Swoboda -

Would like to add one more point. Just completed it today but then the foam tape is no longer sticky enough to hold the screen. I almost broke the screen because of this. So it may be useful to add some double-sided tape on the edges of the case after the operation.

Colin Lai - Antwort

Hi Colin! This is precisely why the guide ends with “To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse and use our adhesive strip replacement guide to reattach the display glass.” You’ll need to get new adhesive, remove the old adhesive, apply the replacement, test the device, and seal it back up! Best of luck!

Sam Lionheart -

Hello all, I know this is quite old but I just replaced the drive to my 27 5k iMac 2014 and I didn’t need the SATA enclosure OR the expensive OWC Temp sensor! I was concerned cuz it was $40 and seemed like a rip-off. I bought a Samsung 860 Evo 1TB and decided to plug it and try it. If it gave me a jet engine fan I’d bite the bullet and buy the sensor. To my surprise fans were fine and I just used double sided 3M tape to tape the drive to the rear casing. So far no issues!

yingwang01 - Antwort

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