Was du brauchst
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Entferne die vier 2 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, mit denen das LCD am Aluminiumrahmen festgemacht ist.
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Hebe die rechte Kante des LCDs mit einem Plastic Opening Tool oder einem Spudger aus dem iPad.
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Klappe das LCD der linken Kante entlang um und lege es oben auf dem Front Panel ab.
I skipped everything beyond this point and proceeded with the detachment of the battery starting from the right side, one section at a time, with a credit card and a glue remover. I then removed the three screws around the battery connector (on both logic boards) and the one of the battery connector itself. I then lifted the boards up jointly just enough to free the battery connector from the screw hole cylinder that keeps it in place. I then cleaned up and removed all the adhesive from the base, inserted the new battery and glued it to the base. I then put the screws back, mounted the LCD, closed the glass with new adhesive, and powered on. The iPad booted normally and I proceeded with the calibration. I am aware that removing the boards is safer, but if you are careful you save a lot of time disconnecting and reconnecting fragile connectors from the boards.
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End of teardown. Start of disassembling.
Dorothy Simler - Antwort
The top left screw may be covered by black adhesive tape.
Chat Pat - Antwort
The ribbon cable on my unit was too short to lay it all the way down. I had to let it sit sideways.
Petabyte Studios - Antwort