Einleitung

Ersetze ein beschädigtes oder nicht funktionierendes LCD an einem iPad 6.

Wir empfehlen die Mikrowelle vor dem Gebrauch zu reinigen, da sonst Essensreste oder Ähnliches am iOpener hängenbleiben können.
  • Wir empfehlen die Mikrowelle vor dem Gebrauch zu reinigen, da sonst Essensreste oder Ähnliches am iOpener hängenbleiben können.

  • Lege den iOpener in die Mitte der Mikrowelle.

    • Für sich drehende Mikrowellen: Stelle sicher, dass der Teller sich drehen kann. Wenn der iOpener hängenbleibt kann er sich überhitzen und sogar Feuer fangen.

which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

fbarletta - Antwort

I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

Fredrik -

I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

windizy - Antwort

I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

Martin Gray - Antwort

I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

Jan Van Puymbroeck - Antwort

Use a hair dryer! Watch this vid: https://youtu.be/16GkvjVyOJA It is much easier to do if you heat it from the other side.

Fletcher Carpenter - Antwort

I wonder how many people actually wrapped in their iPhone into iOpener and put this "sandwich" into microwave??

putinaspiliponis - Antwort

I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

Laurie Higgins - Antwort

Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

Yousef Ghalib - Antwort

I've been with Samsung for 8 years now!! Never did i have a case on any of my phones My Samsung 8 is 2 months old the case protector around the edge pop off and broke my phone it's like someone put a bullet hole in it

Sherry Carew - Antwort

Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.

Esmond Pitt - Antwort

Hi, the microware have multiple power 1 to 9, what must be used ?

Regards,

Cedric

Cedric VINCENT - Antwort

Erhitze den iOpener für dreißig Sekunden auf höchster Stufe.
  • Erhitze den iOpener für dreißig Sekunden auf höchster Stufe.

    • Während des Reperationsprozesses kühlt sich der iOpener wieder ab. Erhitze ihn dann noch einmal zusätzlich einmal für 30 Sekunden.

  • Achte darauf, den iOpener während der Reparatur nicht zu überhitzen. Eine Überhitzung bringt den iOpener möglicherweise zum Platzen.

  • Berühre niemals den iOpener, falls er dir geschwollen vorkommt.

  • Falls der iOpener in der Mitte immer noch zu heiß ist, um ihn anzufassen, dann benutze ihn weiter, bis er ein wenig herunter gekühlt ist, bevor du ihn erneut erhitzt. Ein ordnungsgemäß erhitzter iOpener sollte für bis zu 10 Minuten warm bleiben.

May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

yamayhuang - Antwort

I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

whale13 - Antwort

DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

Alex Jackson - Antwort

I don't own a microwave.

mdanihy - Antwort

Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

Jon - Antwort

I don't have a microwave???

Joe Blow - Antwort

30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

Sam Stieg - Antwort

can i use just ordinary microwave???

juneseok kwon - Antwort

If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

Mohideen Rifay - Antwort

I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

Travis Dixon - Antwort

There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

assortedrubbish - Antwort

I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

dave - Antwort

If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

Patrick Storey - Antwort

I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

mark fitzgerald - Antwort

30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

K

Karl Marble - Antwort

  • Halte den iOpener an einem der flachen Enden und vermeide die heiße Mitte, während du ihn aus der Mikrowelle nimmst.

  • Der Beutel wird sehr heiß, sei vorsichtig beim Gebrauch. Lege dir am besten einen Topflappen bereit.

Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

Me berg - Antwort

Yes, as does a heat gun.

anonymous 4602 - Antwort

I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

Cobus de Beer - Antwort

  • Wenn dein Touch Screen gebrochen ist, vermeide weitere Brüche und verletze dich nicht beim Berühren des Glases.

  • Klebe Paketband über den Touch Screen des iPads, sodass die ganze Oberseite bedeckt ist.

    • Das Klebeband deckt Splitter ab und hält den Touch Screen während dem Entfernen zusammen.

  • Bitte befolge die restliche Anleitung wie beschrieben. Wenn das Glas einmal gebrochen ist, wird es während der Reparatur weiter brechen. Eventuell benötigst du einen Metallspatel, um das Glas zu entfernen.

  • Trage eine Sicherheitsbrille, um deine Augen zu schützen. Sei vorsichtig und beschädige nicht das LCD.

If you add clear packaging tape, it will create bubbles and the suction cup will become inefficient. To me it was impossible to remove the glass with the suction cup. Since the glass was very cracked, I had to resort to some tweaking with strong tape and pull the this off.

jfmartin67 - Antwort

If your screen is significantly cracked to the left edge, abandon this entire setup, prepare yourself for a 5-6 hour repair, expect a lot of patience, a lot of cursing and some good old American ingenuity. The suction cup and picks will not work. You have to carefully crack the glass yourself (w/out damaging the panel underneath and carefully pull it apart from the inside to the outside edges. Use a hairdryer to soften the glue under the cracked panel along the edges. Then use an exacto-knife to separate the pieces of the glued panel from the frame body, all the way around the device. Watch out for the home button ribbon connector when using the exacto-knife. There will be glue residue left over, carefully apply some goo-gone to a small area of a paper towel and wipe gently around the frame body to loosen the glue. Then use the plastic spudger tool to scrape off the excess glue.

The iPad repair is VERY difficult. If you are a working adult, hire a pro. This is not for the faint of heart.

aaroncope - Antwort

The hairdryer option was way faster and easier than the iOpener. Be VERY careful not to damage the LCD- one small mistake will cost you an extra $100!

Mike Martin -

If your digitizer is shattered, the tape will help, but you’re going to need extra picks. Or a razor blade. See below.

Blair Miller - Antwort

Friendly observation that the image on this step is actually of an older ipad model as the side bezels are far too big. I don't know if that matters to anybody but a noob might see it and think this manual doesn't apply to them. : )

notalawyer - Antwort

I had the same experience. My glass was cracked all the way to the left side and the suction cup would not pull the glass up. The packaging tape also didn't help. The heat caused it to lift. I finally abandoned the tape, used a heat gun aimed very carefully at each broken piece of the screen. The picks did work with patience, but I just pulled off each broken part of the glass. I also found that pulling up on one broken part while heating in front of me would let the next piece pull up. I continued heating and breaking all the way around. Do the right side last. Took about 1 hour to get it off, and another hour to clean the old glue off the frame. BTW thanks to this web site and all the comments! No way I would have done this without all the help here! I am now clean and waiting for my new digitizer. I couldn't free the battery (below), so I left it powered up, and verified it till worked before throwing away the old glass. Vince

Vince Asbridge - Antwort

Taping with package tape doesn't work. You'll need a very large piece of tape if you go this route.

Travis Dixon - Antwort

Just finished successful repair. I would add this: most folks will be here because of cracked screen. This is not easy; believe the 'complex' rating on this repair. I put tape on my screen because it was badly cracked. This made the suction cup useless, because it just sucked the tape off the scree.n. I used the razor blade technique which worked great, it should be used in the demo, and a good blade should be in the kit.

dale kingsbury - Antwort

  • Lege den erhitzten iOpener auf die lange Seite links des Home Buttons.

  • Lass den iOpener für mindestens eine Minute liegen, um den Kleber zu erhitzen und zu lösen.

The iOpener doesn't work because the heat isn't strong enough. I used a hair dryer which proved to be much more efficient.

jfmartin67 - Antwort

The iOpener didnt work for me either. seems like it gets hot enough but it must not. I spent 30 min with the iOpener, then tried a hair dryer.

kinchma - Antwort

“At least a minute.” Bullshit. Get the iOpener good and hot, place it on the area you’re going to work on clear side down, and cover it with a towel. Walk away for 2 minutes. Make yourself a drink — you’ll need steady hands later.

Blair Miller - Antwort

I've done this with an iOpener and at least in my case, it worked fine. You may have to modify the heating instructions though, since not all microwaves are created equal.

Jeff Suovanen - Antwort

ii i just did this and it took a while but i figured it out it is true this thing doesnt get hot enough BUT heat it 2 times and then the 3rd time when u place it on the ipad put the ipad box on top and then maybe a second ipad on top of the box so it kinda smashes i down but not too much for it to break and then wait for it to turn warm THEN use the succion THEN the gap appears. the glue is super strong on the ipads so yea it will take some time lol

Joel Tyson - Antwort

Doesn't work. Perhaps include more copy on exactly how to do it?

Travis Dixon - Antwort

The iOpener does not work. It simply it is not hard enough to soften the glue. The heat hair dryer method does not work either.

Javier Lozada - Antwort

The goal is simply to weaken the glue enough that you can use your suction cup to open up a tiny gap under the glass, so you can insert an opening pick and slice through the adhesive. It doesn't actually take all that much heat; the picks will do most of the work once you get them in there. iOpeners, hair dryers, heat guns all work fine in my experience—the iOpener is just a bit more foolproof because it won't get hot enough to cook the display panel underneath.

Jeff Suovanen - Antwort

  • Es befinden sich viele empfindliche Komponenten unter dem Glas des iPads. Um Schäden zu vermeiden, erhitze und heble das Glas nur an den beschriebenen Stellen.

  • Wenn du die einzelnen Schritte ausführst, pass besonders an folgenden Stellen auf, wenn du das Glas entfernst:

    • Frontkamera

    • Antennen

    • Display und Touch Screen Kabel

Don't assume anything!! I thought I was pulling on the screen connector and I was pulling on an antenna component instead. Didn't ruin its connection range but I sure remember doing it and now my iPad has a little internal flaw only I'm aware of.

Travis Dixon - Antwort

  • Befestige einen Saugnapf auf der linken Seite in der Mitte des iPads.

    • Drücke den Saugnapf flach auf den Touch Screen.

  • Halte das iPad mit der einen Hand fest und hebe mit der anderen vorsichtig den Touch Screen vom Gehäuse.

In this picture above, the glass isn't cracked at all so it helps the suction cup to be effective as it is hermetic. With cracked display, it won't work.

jfmartin67 - Antwort

Suction cup would not work for me. No amount of heating with iOpener or hair dryer would allow even the slightest gap to form. I ended up looking at some YouTube videos and used a razor blade. I put the razor blade perpendicular to the top glass, right at the edge of the glass and pushed down until the blade went down 1/4". Then heated some more and pried up the glass enough to put in an opening pick. I spent a lot of time working with the suction cup. Glue was just too strong.

kinchma - Antwort

It's funny that iFixit changed the image they used. Even they themselves realized how stupid it was to try a suction cup on taped up surface. C'mon guys! You should at least make foot notes for your readers and let them know what to do if the glass is already shattered. It's a slow methodical process that involves working with a iOpener type tool. I personally have one that looks like a prison shank (lol)

Scott S - Antwort

Not sure what you are referring to there—I see no evidence in the document history of the photos having been changed. Suction cup + packing tape can work, but it depends how badly the glass is broken and the quality of the tape. Sometimes it takes a couple attempts. You can also skip the suction cup and try using tape alone to pull on the panel, if your tape is sticky enough. There are no guarantees though, which is why we have the disclaimer right in Step 4 that the procedure can be pretty fussy if you're working with a shattered panel. Depending on where it's broken and how badly, you're going to have to improvise.

Jeff Suovanen -

Jeff, the change is evident from image 4, where all the surface is taped up. In this picture you show a clean not broken surface and yes, the suction cup works...

Simone Gabbriellini -

Ah, I see what you're saying! I can understand why you guys would assume that, but in reality the entire guide was originally photographed using an intact panel. We later added a step showing how to protect yourself if you have a shattered panel (with photos to go along with, obviously). I'm afraid it wouldn't be practical to re-shoot the entire guide every time we make a small change like that.

Jeff Suovanen -

The suction cup is useless if your glass is shattered. Use a new, sharp razor blade, and insert it vertically between the edge of the glass and the metal back of the iPad. Don’t worry about pressing too hard — there’s a lip that stops the blade from going in too far and damaging anything. You’ll probably have to do this several times, but eventually the blade will “bite” into the edge of the glass well enough for you to pry it up. Insert a pick underneath the razor, then remove the razor and continue as directed.

Blair Miller - Antwort

After having to read several comments on this screen removal and the clear packing tape, I too have to agree that the tape method does not work well at all if your screen is already shattered. I combined several methods, with lots of patience to remove the screen on my iPad Air 2. What I found it very helpful was the heat gun used for paint removal. The heat gun generates a lot of concentrated heat at lower air velocity, unlike generic hair dryer, so you must be very careful not to ruin the electronics, and risk burning your hands and anything around it. My heat gun that I purchased from Home Depot had a nozzle to direct and focus the heat on a small area. That was helpful in working small area at a time. This method work thoroughly well.

Taiji Saotome - Antwort

It would work if you leave iopener in microwave for 1 minute.

Don’t trust the instruction from ifixit.

you can put iopener in microwave for 1 minute without any harm.

Note. you have to make sure that it is in cold position before you put it into microwave.

phongsiri nirachornkul - Antwort

Suction cup didn’t work for me either, went the razor blade route (using an exacto knife blade) with very minimal damage to the aluminum shell. Be warned, if your screen has cracked along the edge (as it almost 100% certainly has if you’re reading this guide), the screen will continue to shatter and splinter as you make your way around the edge. That’s when having the screen taped up well will be to your advantage. There’s also a good chance you’ll have to re-insert the razor blade on the other side of a fracture and start the lifting process again, but keep going, being sure to avoid the points called out in this guide and you should be fine.

Also, do not apply the suction cup to an area of the screen with cracks and no tape. If you’re near the edge you run the risk of brutally shattering that area of the glass if the glass gives before the suction cup.

Micah Sledge - Antwort

In order to get this to work for me I had to heat the IOpener to over 104 C - I needed to get the screen over 40 C before the adhesive would loosen.

Also I had to put the ipad on a towel - the granite countertop it was on was sucking the heat out too fast.

Jack Williams - Antwort

This step was brutal on my nerves - read about too many people ruining their iOpener and I don’t have a heat gun. I had to keep heating the iOpener incrementally hoping I wouldn’t pop it. … but if you’re patient, persistent, and cautious, you can definitely tell when you’re seeing separation. The iOpener ended up being WAY hotter than 30 seconds was getting me - borderline scorching my hands.

William Thompson - Antwort

  • Platziere den Opening Pick in dem entstandenen Spalt.

    • Schiebe den Pick nicht tiefer in das iPad als den lackierten Rand. Andernfalls kannst du das LCD beschädigen.

  • Löse nun den Saugnapf vom Touch Screen.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Erhitze den iOpener erneut und lege ihn erneut auf die linke Seite.

    • Überhitze den iOpener nicht während der Reparatur, sondern warte mindestens 2 Minuten, bevor du ihn erneut erhitzt.

This says "Always wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener", however the iOpener itself has a warning printed upon it that says wait at least 10 minutes. And that 10 minutes warning is also mentioned in Step 2 above.

Scott - Antwort

Sorry about that! We fixed the text on this step. The two-minute interval was for an older version of the iOpener—the text printed on your iOpener will have the correct interval, which is indeed ten minutes. It can burst if overheated or reheated too quickly.

Jeff Suovanen -

  • Platziere nun einen weiteren Pick in dem entstandenen Spalt und ziehe diesen zur unteren Ecke. Dabei sollte sich der Kleber lösen.

You guys really need to show how it's done when your iPad isn't perfect like the one pictured above.. C'mon..

Scott S - Antwort

This is for BATTERY REPLACEMENT not CRACKED SCREEN REPLACEMENT!!

Corey Barcus -

How do you slide the picks when the glass is broken? Even with the glass taped, it pulls away from the tape rather than the housing. I've just further shattered the glass with my attempts.

chrisweiler - Antwort

  • Führe den Pick an der Seite des Displays entlang, um den Kleber zu lösen.

  • Wenn der Pick am Kleber festhängt oder stockt, dann "rolle" den Pick an der Seite entlang, um den Kleber weiter zu lösen.

This gives a false illusion to the difficulty of these repairs when you guys make guides using perfect devices. What about devices with dinged corners? A reader is gonna slap on a new screen and shatter it the second they apply pressure thinking it will fit into a dented corner lol

Scott S - Antwort

  • Führe nun den ersten Pick hinauf bis zur oberen Ecke des iPads.

  • Siehst du den Pick durch das Glas? Keine Panik – ziehe es einfach wieder etwas raus. Meistens wird dadurch nichts beschädigt. Versuche dies aber zu vermeiden, weil der Kleber sonst das LCD oder Glas berühren könnte und sehr schwer zu reinigen ist.

I managed to get a couple of fingerprints on the LCD.

What's the best way to clean 'em off?

What's the safest way?

Mike McIntosh - Antwort

What I’ve read, and seems to work, is gentle circular pressure with a very clean, dry microfiber cloth. Lacking that, use a TINY drop of water ON THE CLOTH, not on the LCD. Small amounts of alcohol can be used, in my experience, but only if the above don’t work, and with better results if used in small amounts and applied to the cloth, not the LCD.

Bonnie Baxter - Antwort

  • Erhitze den iOpener erneut und platziere ihn auf dem oberen Rand des iPads über der Frontkamera.

    • ACHTUNG: Den iOpener während des Reparaturprozesses nicht überhitzen. Warte mindestens zwei Minuten, bevor du ihn erneut erhitzt.

  • Wenn du einen flexiblen iOpener besitzt, kannst du ihn so verbiegen, dass er gleichzeitig die obere linke Ecke und den oberen Rand erwärmt.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Schiebe das Opening Pick um die obere linke Ecke herum, damit der Klebstoff gelöst wird.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Ziehe das Opening Pick entlang der oberen Kante bis kurz vor die Frontkamera und halte dann an.

  • Das dritte Bild zeigt, wo die Frontkamera und ihr Gehäuse im iPad platziert sind.

    • Versuche, nicht mit dem Opening Pick über die Frontkamera zu streifen, denn sonst könntest du Klebstoff auf die Linse schmieren oder sogar die Kamera beschädigen. Die folgenden Schritte beschreiben genau, wie du Komplikationen mit der Frontkamera am besten vermeiden kannst.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Ziehe das Opening Pick leicht heraus und schiebe die Spitze sehr vorsichtig am oberen Rand des iPads auf Höhe der Frontkamera entlang.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Lass das Opening Pick gleich hinter der Frontkamera stecken.

  • Nimm ein zweites Opening Pick und setze vor der Frontkamera erneut an. Nun schiebe das Opening Pick in die linke Ecke, um den Klebstoff an diesem Rand vollends zu lösen.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Nun kannst du das erste Opening Pick wieder tiefer hineinschieben und von der Kamera weg bis in die Ecke ziehen.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Behalte die drei Opening Picks in den Seiten des iPads an denen der Kleber schon gelöst wurde, sodass dieser sich nicht erneut verklebt.

    • Erhitze den iOpener und platziere ihn auf der letzten unbearbeiteten Seite.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Schiebe den Opening Pick in die obere rechte Ecke des iPads, um den Kleber dort vorsichtig zu lösen.

  • Lasse den Opening Pick an Ort und Stelle, um zu verhindern, dass der Kleber sich wieder versiegelt und nimm dir für den nächsten Schritt einen neuen Opening Pick.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Führe einen neuen Opening Pick in das iPad ein und schiebe ihn in die Mitte der rechten Kante des iPads, um den Kleber der Kante entlang zu lösen.

  • Die Display-Kabel befinden sich etwa auf halbem Weg von der Unterseite des iPads. Stoppe mit dem Opening Pick, wenn du dich ca. 11 cm von der Unterseite des iPads entfernt befindest.

Why there’s such an obsession with not damaging the cables is beyond me. Be careful, so as not to damage what the cables are connected to. But the cables are part of the replacement digitizer, so if you nick or even slice through them (like I did with the one closest to the bottom) don’t worry about it.

Blair Miller - Antwort

Keep in mind that some people are here to open an intact display to replace internal components! In those cases, keeping the cables un-harmed is quite important ;)

Sam Lionheart -

My digitizer WAS ok and I was only replacing the battery I wasn't careful enough when coming around the side with the pics and got a hold of the cable just enough with the pic to pull it off the underside of the panel. The battery replacement went great other than now I have to replace the digitizer. :(

BE CAREFUL WITH THIS STEP!!!

Dylan Bouterse - Antwort

And if you are replacing the digitizer, you have to reuse the fingerprint sensor home button. I sliced through mine and now I’ll not have fingerprint sensor. Each home button is matched to the main board and if switched out you will loose that sensor ability.

David - Antwort

  • Lasse die Opening Picks an Ort und Stelle und lege den erneut aufgewärmten iOpener auf die Seite des iPads mit dem Home Button.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Schiebe den unteren linken Opening Pick in die untere linke Ecke, um den Kleber auf dieser Ecke zu trennen.

  • Lasse den Opening Pick in der Ecke. Gehe damit kein Stück weiter und entferne nicht den Opening Pick aus dem iPad.

  • Das dritte Bild zeigt die beiden Antennen und den Hohlraum des Home Buttons im unteren Bereich des iPads.

    • Die folgenden Schritte führen dich so, dass du Schäden an den Komponenten vermeiden wirst. Verwende Hitze und Hebelwirkung nur da, wo es von dir in der Anleitung verlangt wird.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Lasse den Opening Pick aus dem letzten Schritt genau dort wo du aufgehört hast, um zu verhindern, dass der Kleber sich wieder versiegelt.

  • Schneide mit einem neuen Opening Pick vorsichtig über die linke Antenne, stoppe kurz vor dem Home Button.

    • Schneide mit dem Opening Pick nur von der äußeren Kante Richtung der Mitte des iPads. Bewege das Opening Pick nicht zurück in Richtung der äußeren Kante, da die Bewegung in diese Richtung die Antenne beschädigen kann.

    • Wenn du den Opening Pick mehrmals über den unteren Bereich bewegen musst, entferne ihn und setze ihn an der äußeren Ecke wieder ein. Bewege dich dann wieder Richtung Mitte.

  • Lasse den Opening Pick an Ort und Stelle und springe zum nächsten Schritt.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Nimm ein neues Plektrum und schiebe es an die Stelle des vorherigen Plektrums.

  • Fahre am Home Button und der rechten Antenne nur mit der äussersten Spitze des Plektrums entlang, um den Kleber zu entfernen.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Wenn der Kleber gelöst ist, kannst du das Plektrum in der Nähe der rechten Ecke einsetzen.

    • Führe wie bei der linken Antenne das Plektrum nur von der äußeren Kante in Richtung Mitte. Andersherum könnte dies die Antenne beschädigen.

I think you’re missing a step here where you explicitly direct the reader to slide the pick from the bottom right corner towards the home button.

Fin Hirschoff - Antwort

  • Erhitze den iOpener und lege ihn auf die Seite der Lautstärketasten des iPads.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Sei sehr vorsichtig bei diesem Schritt. Nimm dir Zeit und sei dir sicher, dass der Kleber erwärmt und lose ist. Überprüfe außerdem, ob du den kompletten Kleber mit einem Plektrum gelockert hast. Sollte dies nicht der Fall sein, erwärme ggf. den iOpener wieder und führe die letzten Schritte noch einmal sorgfältig durch.

  • Auf der den Lautstärketasten gegenüberliegenden Seite solltest du ein Plektrum in jede Ecke eingesteckt haben. Drehe die Plektren um die Scheibe leicht an zu heben - so löst du auch den letzten Kleber entlang der Kante mit dem Displaykabel.

  • Solltest du mehr Widerstand als gewöhnlich bemerken, lasse die Plektren wo sie sind. Erhitze den iOpener und lege ihn auf die Problemstellen auf, um den wiederspenstigen Kleber wieder zu erweichen.

You will end up having to scrape the outter ledge to remove the old screen. I bled and got glass shards everywhere. Good luck!

Travis Dixon - Antwort

  • Hebe langsam und vorsichtig das Display an, um den Kleber entlang der Kante mit dem Displaykabel zu lösen.

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  • Während du das Front Panel Glas hebst, nutze ein Plektrum, um auch den letzten Kleber zu lösen.

  • Sei sehr vorsichtig um die Displaykabel nicht zu beschädigen.

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  • Wenn erst einmal jeglicher Kleber entfernt bzw. gelöst wurde, kannst du das Front Panel Glas wie eine Buchseite öffnen und auf die Arbeitsfläche ablegen.

  • Reinige beim Wiederzusammenbau die Klebstoffreste auf dem Gehäuse sowie auf dem Front Panel Glas (sofern du es wieder verwendest) mit Isopropylalkohol und ersetze den Kleber mit vorgefertigten Klebestreifen.

  • Ein Flexkabel kann leicht zwischen dem Frontglas und dem iPad-Rahmen während der Wiedermontage eingeklemmte werden. Achte auf die Flexkabel und stelle sicher, dass sie vorsichtig unter dem Rahmen gefaltet und gesteckt sind. Wird ein Flexkabel vollständig flach gedrückt, kann es so beschädigt werden, dass eine Reparatur nicht mehr möglich ist.

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  • Entferne jegliches Klebeband, das die LCD-Schrauben verdeckt.

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  • Entferne die vier 4,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben #00, die das LCD befestigen.

Both of the iPad 6th gen models i have seen so for (note they were cellular also) had the LCD secured with a grey silicone kind of adhesive in each corner under the screws. So you can’t just lift the LCD as you normally would after removing screws, it would break. I found you could pick at the corner closest to the rear camera easiest, slightly lift that corner and gently separate the other side next to the headphone jack. Then while supporting the LCD , lever the other end free with a up-and-down motion making slight progress each time.

Anvil Electronics - Antwort

  • Versuche nicht, das LCD ganz zu entfernen. Es ist noch mit verschiedenen Kabeln am Ende mit dem Home Button angeschlossen. Hebe es nur am Ende mit der Frontkamera an.

  • Heble das LCD mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers gerade soweit aus seiner Vertiefung heraus, dass du es mit den Fingern fassen kannst.

  • Schlage das LCD wie eine Buchseite um, wobei du es in der Nähe der Kamera hochhebst und um das Ende des Gehäuses mit dem Home Button wendest.

    • Sei vorsichtig und achte beim Umwenden des LCD auf die Displaykabel.

  • Lege das LCD mit dem Glas nach unten, so dass du an die Displaykabel herankommst.

    • Lege das LCD auf eine weiche, saubere und fusselfreie Oberfläche.

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  • Entferne die einzelne 2,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube #000, welche den Akkustecker am Logic Board befestigt.

  • Mit einem speziellen Akkuisolierstück (Battery Isolation Pick) kannst du den Akkuanschlusses besser abtrennen und so einen Kurzschluss vermeiden.

    • Schiebe das Akkuisolierstück unter den Bereich des Akkusteckers auf dem Logic Board und belasse ihn während der ganzen Reparatur dort.

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  • Entferne drei Kreuzschlitzschrauben #000 von der Halterung des Displaykabels.

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  • Heble vorsichtig mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers die Displaykabelhalterung gerade vom Logic Board hoch.

  • Der Displaykabelstecker ist an der Unterseite der Halterung angebracht. Schiebe deshalb den Spudger nicht zu weit unter die Halterung, du könntest sonst den Stecker beschädigen.

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  • Entferne das LCD.

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Abschluss

Befolge diese Anleitung in umgekehrter Reihenfolge, um das Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen.

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