Einleitung
Follow this guide to remove or replace the logic board in an iPad 7 for both Wi-Fi only and Cellular models.
Be very careful when you isolate the battery using a battery blocker. The battery contacts are easily damaged, resulting in irreversible damage. If you choose to complete the guide without isolating the battery, avoid using metal tools except when completely necessary (like when removing screws) to prevent shorting the battery and damaging sensitive circuit components.
Some photos in this guide are from a different model and may contain slight visual discrepancies, but they won't affect the guide procedure.
Werkzeuge
- Battery Blocker
- SIM Card Eject Tool
- Tweezers
- iOpener
- iFixit Opening Picks (Set of 6)
- Suction Handle
- Spudger
- Phillips #00 Screwdriver
- Phillips #000 Screwdriver
- Halberd Spudger
Optionale Werkzeuge
Ersatzteile
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Heat the iOpener for thirty seconds.
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Throughout the repair procedure, as the iOpener cools, reheat it in the microwave for an additional thirty seconds at a time.
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Remove the iOpener from the microwave, holding it by one of the two flat ends to avoid the hot center.
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Fill a pot or pan with enough water to fully submerge an iOpener.
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Heat the water to a boil. Turn off the heat.
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Place an iOpener into the hot water for 2-3 minutes. Make sure the iOpener is fully submerged in the water.
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Use tongs to extract the heated iOpener from the hot water.
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Thoroughly dry the iOpener with a towel.
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Your iOpener is ready for use! If you need to reheat the iOpener, heat the water to a boil, turn off the heat, and place the iOpener in the water for 2-3 minutes.
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If your display glass is cracked, keep further breakage contained and prevent bodily harm during your repair by taping the glass.
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Lay overlapping strips of clear packing tape over the iPad's display until the whole face is covered.
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Do your best to follow the rest of the guide as described. However, once the glass is broken, it will likely continue to crack as you work, and you may need to use a metal prying tool to scoop the glass out.
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Handling it by the tag, place the heated iOpener on the side of the iPad to the left of the home button assembly.
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Let the iOpener sit for at least a minute to soften the adhesive beneath the glass.
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As you follow the directions, take special care to avoid prying in the following areas:
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Front-facing camera
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Antennas
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Display cables
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Carefully place a suction cup halfway up the heated side.
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Be sure the cup is completely flat on the screen to get a tight seal.
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While holding the iPad down with one hand, pull up on the suction cup to slightly separate the front panel glass from from the rear case.
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Place an opening pick in the gap opened by the suction cup.
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Pull the suction cup's plastic nub to release the vacuum seal and remove the suction cup from the display assembly.
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Place a second opening pick alongside the first and slide the pick down along the edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.
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Continue moving the opening pick down the side of the display to release the adhesive.
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If the opening pick gets stuck in the adhesive, "roll" the pick along the side of the iPad, continuing to release the adhesive.
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Take the first pick you inserted and slide it up toward the top corner of the iPad.
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If you can see the tip of the opening pick through the front glass, don't panic—just pull the pick out just a little bit. Most likely, everything will be fine, but try to avoid this as it may deposit adhesive on the front of the LCD that is difficult to clean off.
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Reheat the iOpener and place it on the top edge of the iPad, over the front-facing camera.
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Slide the opening pick around the top left corner of the iPad to separate the adhesive.
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Slide the opening pick along the top edge of the iPad, stopping just before you reach the camera.
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Pull the pick out slightly, and slide the very tip gently along the top of the front-facing camera section of the top edge.
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Leave the opening pick in the iPad slightly past the front-facing camera.
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Take a second pick and insert it to the left of the camera, and then slide it to the corner of the iPad to finish cutting the adhesive on that edge.
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Insert the previous pick deeper into the iPad and slide it away from the camera toward the corner.
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Leave the three picks in the corners of the iPad to prevent re-adhering of the front panel adhesive.
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Reheat the iOpener and place it on the remaining side of the iPad—along the volume and lock buttons.
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Slide the opening pick around the top right corner of the iPad, releasing the adhesive there.
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Insert a new opening pick and slide it to the middle of the right edge of the iPad, releasing the adhesive as you go.
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Leave the opening picks in place, and set the reheated iOpener on the home button end of the iPad.
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Slide the lower left pick to the lower left corner to cut the adhesive on that corner.
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Leave the pick at the corner. Do not pry any farther, and do not remove the pick from the iPad.
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The following steps will direct you where to pry to avoid damage to these components. Only apply heat and pry where directed.
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With a new pick, slice gently over the left-hand antenna, stopping before the home button.
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Leave the pick in place before moving on.
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Take a new pick and slip it in to the right of the previous pick.
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Slide across the home button and right-hand antenna using only the very tip to remove the adhesive.
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With the adhesive loosened, you can now insert the pick near the right-hand corner. Slide the pick to the left, and stop just short of the Home button.
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On the side of the iPad opposite the volume controls, you should have a pick lodged into each corner. Twist the picks to lift the glass slightly, separating the last of the adhesive along the display cable edge.
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Lift slowly and gently to further detach the adhesive along the display cable edge.
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While supporting the front panel glass, use an opening pick to cut the last of the adhesive.
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Once all of the adhesive has been separated, open the front glass like a page in a book and rest it on your workspace.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four 4.3 mm-long screws securing the LCD to the frame.
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Remove any tape obscuring the LCD screws.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the LCD out of its recess just enough to grab it with your fingers.
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Flip the iPad LCD like a page in a book, lifting near the camera and turning it over the home button end of the rear case.
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Lay the LCD down onto a clean, soft, lint-free surface to allow access to the display cables.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the single 2.3 mm-long screw securing the battery connector to the logic board.
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Slide the battery blocker underneath the logic board's battery connector at a 35 degree angle.
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Leave the battery blocker in place as you work.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.4 mm-long screws securing the display cable bracket.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the LCD cable by lifting straight up on the press connector.
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Remove the LCD completely and rest it face down on a clean, soft, lint-free surface.
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Use a pair of tweezers to peel off the tape covering the home button cable ZIF connector.
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Use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the home button cable ZIF connector.
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Use a pair of tweezers to carefully pull the home button ribbon cable straight out of the ZIF connector.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the two digitizer cables by lifting straight up on the press connectors.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the vibration isolator below the SIM card reader.
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Remove the vibration isolator.
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Remove the front panel assembly.
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If you experience "ghost" or "phantom" touch input issues with your new display, this can be resolved by adding a layer of very thin insulating tape, such as Kapton (polyimide) tape, to the highlighted areas on the back of the panel. iFixit replacement digitizers come with the proper insulation and should not require the addition of any tape.
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Insert a SIM eject tool, bit, or straightened paper clip into the SIM card tray hole.
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Press firmly to eject the SIM card tray.
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Carefully peel the LCD buffer tape up off of the upper component bracket.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the five screws securing the upper component bracket.
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Three 1.4 mm-long screws
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Two 1.9 mm-long screws
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to lift up the upper component bracket until you can grip it with your fingers.
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Remove the upper component bracket.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the front camera cable by lifting straight up on the press connector.
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Use a spudger to lift the front camera out of its recess until you can grip it with your fingers.
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Use the spudger to pull the adhesive foam pad away from the front camera.
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Use a pair of tweezers to grip the front camera and rotate it to thread the cable through its slot in the rear case.
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Remove the front camera.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the headphone jack by lifting straight up on the press connector.
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Use a pair of tweezers to peel the headphone jack up from the logic board and fold the cable out of the way.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three 1.4 mm-long screws securing the cellular antennas to the rear case.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the right cellular antenna coaxial cable by prying up as close to the connector as possible.
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Disconnect the left antenna cable.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect both cellular antennas by lifting straight up on their press connectors.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the rear camera by lifting straight up on the press connector.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to disconnect the microphone assembly by lifting straight up on the press connector.
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Peel off any tape covering the button control cable ZIF connector.
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Use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the button control cable ZIF connector.
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Use a pair of tweezers to carefully pull the button control cable straight out of the ZIF connector.
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Peel off any tape covering the Smart Cover sensor cable ZIF connector.
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Use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the Smart Cover sensor cable ZIF connector.
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Use a pair of tweezers to carefully pull the Smart Cover sensor cable straight out of the ZIF connector.
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Use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on the SIM card reader cable ZIF connector.
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Use a pair of tweezers to carefully pull the SIM card reader cable straight out of the ZIF connector.
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Insert the pointed end of a spudger under the right antenna cable and lift straight up to disconnect it.
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Insert the pointed end of a spudger under the left antenna cable and lift straight up to disconnect it.
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Peel the left antenna cable away from the rear case, along the bottom edge of the iPad.
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Use the flat end of a spudger to pry up the vibration isolator at the bottom left corner of the iPad.
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Use a pair of tweezers to remove the vibration isolator.
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Use a pair of tweezers or your fingernail to peel up the tape covering the speaker connectors.
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Use the tip of a spudger, an opening tool, or your fingernail to flip up the small, hinged locking flap on both the left and right speaker cable ZIF connectors.
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Use a pair of tweezers to carefully pull the left and right speaker cables straight out of their respective ZIF connectors.
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Use the pointed end of a spudger to disconnect the Smart Connector coaxial cable by prying up as close to the connector as possible.
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Use a pair of tweezers to disconnect the Smart Connector cable connector by lifting straight up.
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Use a pair of tweezers to peel back the tape securing the Smart Connector cables to the rear case.
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Heat an iOpener and apply it to the bottom left corner of the rear case to soften the SIM card tray's adhesive for thirty seconds.
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Use an opening tool to pry up on the bottom edge of the SIM card reader with a slow and steady force.
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Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the four 2.2 mm-long screws securing the charging port to the rear case.
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Two 2.2 mm-long screws
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Two 3.2 mm-long screws
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Heat an iOpener and apply it to the bottom, top, and logic board side of the iPad for thirty seconds in each location.
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Insert an opening pick under the charging port cable near the logic board and slide it toward the charging port to slice the adhesive.
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Insert an opening pick under the charging port cable near the charging port and slide it towards the logic board to cut the adhesive.
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Insert an opening pick under the upper arm of the logic board and slide it toward the logic board to cut the adhesive securing it to the rear case.
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Leave the opening pick inserted to keep the adhesive from re-adhering.
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Insert an opening tool near the bottom of the logic board and pry up with a slow and steady force to peel it away from the rear case.
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Insert an opening tool near the middle of the logic board and pry up with a slow and steady force to peel it away from the rear case.
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Insert an opening tool near the top of the logic board and pry up with a slow and steady force to peel it away from the rear case.
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