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Einleitung

Diese Anleitung zeigt dir wie du die Home Button Einheit inklusive Dichtung und Kabel an deinem iPad Air 2 WiFi auswechseln kannst. Beachte, dass Home Buttons mit ihrem jeweiligen Logic Board gepaart ist, daher wird die Touch ID Funktion nach dem Ersetzen der Home Button Einheit nicht mehr funktionieren.

Warnhinweis: Die in der Anleitung beschriebene Methode zum Isolieren des Akkus ist überholt. Du kannst mit ihr die Akkukontakte dauerhaft beschädigen, bzw zerstören. Wenn du trotzdem den Akku auf diese Weise isolieren willst, dann befolge die Warnhinweise ganz genau und arbeite sehr sorgfältig. Wenn du aber weiterarbeitest, ohne den Akku zu isolieren, dann vermeide den Gebrauch von Metallwerkzeugen, außer wo unbedingt notwendig (z.B. um Schrauben zu entfernen). Dadurch beugst du einem Kurzschließen des Akkus und der empfindlichen Elektronik vor.

  1. Wir empfehlen die Mikrowelle vor dem Gebrauch zu reinigen, da sonst Essensreste oder Ähnliches am iOpener hängenbleiben können. Lege den iOpener in die Mitte der Mikrowelle.
    • Wir empfehlen die Mikrowelle vor dem Gebrauch zu reinigen, da sonst Essensreste oder Ähnliches am iOpener hängenbleiben können.

    • Lege den iOpener in die Mitte der Mikrowelle.

    • Für sich drehende Mikrowellen: Stelle sicher, dass der Teller sich drehen kann. Wenn der iOpener hängenbleibt kann er sich überhitzen und sogar Feuer fangen.

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Antwort

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Antwort

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Antwort

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Antwort

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Antwort

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - Antwort

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - Antwort

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - Antwort

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - Antwort

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - Antwort

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - Antwort

    I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Antwort

    My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.

    trebor65 - Antwort

    My experience pt2

    Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.

    trebor65 - Antwort

    Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.

    I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier

    gazza667 - Antwort

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).

    Dennis - Antwort

    Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg

    Manu R - Antwort

    If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.

    Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?

    mpulliam - Antwort

    Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …

    Esmond Pitt - Antwort

    Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.

    Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.

    doug - Antwort

    I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.

    The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.

    Richard O'Brien - Antwort

    No, everyone does not have a hairdryer. Some of us don’t even have hair. Thank goodness I already had an IR thermometer, though.

    nin10doh -

    #### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######

    Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…

    T z - Antwort

    I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.

    Mizzoo, s.r.o. - Antwort

    I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.

    Randal Haufler - Antwort

    I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?

    janderson martin - Antwort

    WARNING - DO NOT MICROWAVE ON A METAL MICROWAVE RACK

    The metal microwave rack can heat up and melt through the iOpener cover letting the contents leak out.

    Not a big issue for me as I have a heat gun and used that instead.

    Run Up A Tree - Antwort

    I opened my iPad with the iOpener. Be patient! It may take quite a bit longer to it the iOpener in the microwave than it says in the guide. My microwave can only do 800W and I had to put the iOpener in several times (maybe a total of 90-120 seconds). I recommend that you have the transparent side up an watch the bag carefully. As long a the bag doesn't bloat up and the liquid doesn't start bubbling you should be fine. But I recommend to take the iO out from time to time to check it. (More comments in Step 6.)

    marcelflueeler - Antwort

  2. Erhitze den iOpener für dreißig Sekunden.
    • Erhitze den iOpener für dreißig Sekunden.

    • Im Verlauf der Reparatur kühlt sich der iOpener wieder ab. Erhitze ihn dann noch einmal für dreißig Sekunden.

    • Achte darauf, den iOpener während der Reparatur nicht zu überhitzen. Eine Überhitzung bringt den iOpener möglicherweise zum Platzen.

    • Berühre niemals den iOpener, falls er aufgeschwollen aussieht.

    • Falls der iOpener in der Mitte immer noch zu heiß ist, um ihn anzufassen, dann benutze ihn weiter, bis er ein wenig herunter gekühlt ist, bevor du ihn erneut erhitzt. Ein ordnungsgemäß erhitzter iOpener sollte für bis zu 10 Minuten warm bleiben.

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Antwort

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Antwort

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Antwort

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Antwort

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Antwort

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Antwort

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Antwort

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - Antwort

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - Antwort

    Great idea with using the heat packs. I will try that next time. Thank you

    Collins -

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - Antwort

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - Antwort

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - Antwort

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - Antwort

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Miesch -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.

    breadandbits - Antwort

    Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.

    I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.

    G Trieste -

    Get a heat gun.

    alesha adamson - Antwort

    I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.

    Dennis - Antwort

    I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…

    cvela90 - Antwort

    After reading previous comments I didn't even use the i-opener. Used the heatgun ( hairdryer ) which works great for me. Maybe I was lucky as this is my first attempt at replacing a cellphone battery. Motoz 3

    Collins - Antwort

    It appeared 30 seconds were not enough, so I heated it more, by 5 seconds at a time until I got the right temperature about 70 degrees Celsius (measured with infrared pistol) to get the screen heated up to 60 C, the best for softening the glue. But the heat was quickly dissipating by the big aluminum back cover, so the best I got in 2 minutes of applying iOpener was around 45 C, which made the procedure difficult and having risk of breaking the screen. So I eventually abandoned iOpener and user a hot air gun with precise temperature setup. I set it to 90 C, which allowed me to open my iPad quickly and safely.

    Sergey Kofanov - Antwort

  3. Halte den iOpener an einem der flachen Enden und vermeide die heiße Mitte, während du ihn aus der Mikrowelle nimmst.
    • Halte den iOpener an einem der flachen Enden und vermeide die heiße Mitte, während du ihn aus der Mikrowelle nimmst.

    • Der Beutel wird sehr heiß, sei vorsichtig beim Gebrauch. Lege dir am besten einen Topflappen bereit.

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Antwort

    I did too, you get far more control and no expense on fancy equipment.

    Billinski -

    Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.

    breadandbits - Antwort

    I used an electric griddle set to the lowest setting. It seemed to work very well.

    John - Antwort

    I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.

    Robin - Antwort

    This thing melts when placed up side down in the microwave…

    Mark - Antwort

  4. Solltest du keine Mikrowelle haben oder benutzen wollen, folge diesem Schritt, um den iOpener in kochendem Wasser zu erhitzen. Fülle einen Topf oder eine tiefe Pfanne mit ausreichend Wasser, um den iOpener komplett damit bedecken zu können.
    • Solltest du keine Mikrowelle haben oder benutzen wollen, folge diesem Schritt, um den iOpener in kochendem Wasser zu erhitzen.

    • Fülle einen Topf oder eine tiefe Pfanne mit ausreichend Wasser, um den iOpener komplett damit bedecken zu können.

    • Erhitze das Wasser (ohne den iOpener) bis es kocht. Schalte die Wärmezufuhr (Platte) aus.

    • Lege den iOpener für etwa 2-3 Minuten in das heiße Wasser. Stelle sicher, dass der iOpener komplett mit Wasser bedeckt ist.

    • Nimm den iOpener mit einer Küchenzange aus dem Wasser heraus.

    • Trockne den iOpener gründlich mit einem Küchen- oder Handtuch ab.

    • Der iOpener speichert die Hitze, und ist daher sehr heiß. Sei vorsichtig, und halte den iOpener nur an den Endlaschen, nicht in der Mitte.

    • Der iOpener kann jetzt verwendet werden. Solltest du den iOpener erneut erwärmen müssen, erhitze das Wasser nochmal bis zum Siedepunkt, schalte die Wärmezufuhr aus, und lege den iOpener wieder für 2-3 Minuten vollständig in das Wasser.

    What do I do if I don’t have a iopener?

    alexdelarge103@gmail.com - Antwort

    2 or 3 cups Rice in a sock, heat for about 2 minutes. But, I recommend the iopener.

    Robert Garcia - Antwort

    When boiling in water you can put the iopener in a ziplock to keep it dry.

    Robert Garcia - Antwort

  5. Wenn das Glas zerbrochen ist kannst du weiteres Zersplittern und die Verletzungsgefahr verringern, indem du das Glas mit Klebefolien sicherst. Belege das Display ganz mit überlappenden Streifen von festem durchsichtigem Klebeband. Dieses Verfahren hält die Glasscherben zusammen und du kannst das Display leichter an einem Stück hochheben.
    • Wenn das Glas zerbrochen ist kannst du weiteres Zersplittern und die Verletzungsgefahr verringern, indem du das Glas mit Klebefolien sicherst.

    • Belege das Display ganz mit überlappenden Streifen von festem durchsichtigem Klebeband.

    • Dieses Verfahren hält die Glasscherben zusammen und du kannst das Display leichter an einem Stück hochheben.

    • Gehe diese Anleitung so sorgfältig wie möglich durch. Trotzdem könnte das Glas weiter brechen. Dann musst du eventuelle Teilstücke mit geeignetem Werkzeug heraus zupfen.

    • Schütze deine Augen mit einer Schutzbrille und achte darauf, den LCD Schirm nicht zu beschädigen.

    Why does it says in red letter to be sure not to damage the LCD screen? I thought the whole point of this guide is to replace a broken screen and the new screen comes with a new LCD since apparently they cannot be separated

    Stranger Danger - Antwort

    Because some people are opening the ipad to replace the battery! Like me~

    stephenwithph - Antwort

    The picture is a picture of an ipad 4 lol

    iCare Electronic Repair - Antwort

    The opening procedure is the same on many iPad models, so some photos are reused for all models.

    Daniele Carminati -

  6. In den folgenden Schritten wird ein iOpener benutzt, um den Kleber der Displayeinheit aufzuweichen. Erhitze den iOpener nicht mehr als 30 Sekunden in der Mikrowelle.
    • In den folgenden Schritten wird ein iOpener benutzt, um den Kleber der Displayeinheit aufzuweichen. Erhitze den iOpener nicht mehr als 30 Sekunden in der Mikrowelle.

    • Fasse ihn nur an den beiden Laschen am Ende an und lege den erhitzten iOpener auf die obere Kante des iPad.

    • Lasse ihn dort zwei Minuten liegen, um den Klebstoff zu lösen, der das Frontpanel am Rest des iPads festhält.

    Yeah, this part took longer than written. Over 30 minutes and had to reheat the iOpenner since it got cool enough to only feel warm.

    Christopher Lowder - Antwort

    So true, the adhesive is really strong.

    Benjamin Black -

    I would recommend using a hair dryer on high instead. Heat a certain area 60 seconds at a time and keep the hair dyer moving at a slow but constant speed.

    Alexander Chrisman - Antwort

    Hi!

    Is the quality of the iOpener so different, that for some people this guide works. but for most people including me, this 30 sec do not hotten the iOpener enough..

    Couldn't anybody do a new guideline with proper info, how many sec on which watt, etc. Pretty please!

    BUT, with that said, I would like thank You people on ifixit.com, for make all this tools. I f. love it! But plz make a new guide for at least iPad Air 2, screen replacement!

    Big love from Sweden and me Magni =) <3

    Magnifika Mole - Antwort

    Hello Magni!

    Microwave power can be vary, so you may need to microwave your iOpener longer in order to get it hot enough. The iOpener should be hot to the touch, about 80-100°C.

    Arthur Shi -

    Why do these instructions say to heat the top of the iPad for 2 minutes, but then prior open the bottom? The instruction below seem to indicate heating the side that you are about to pry open.

    mpulliam - Antwort

    I saw in some “How To”videos, the repair shop had expensive heating pads to assist in screen removal. If I ever find myself making a similar repair to an iPad of iPhone, I’m going to try using a heating pad I have for my back. Set it to high and let the iPad/iPhone set on it screen down for 15 minutes or so. Should do the trick.

    Charles Meitin - Antwort

    결국 히팅건을 사용했습니다. Bosch GHG 500-2 패드 알루미늄이 뜨거워질 때까지 가볍게 가열하십시오. 손가락으로 만지면 견딜 수 없을 정도로 뜨거워질 때까지 천천히 가열했습니다. iopener는 시간이 많이 걸리고 성공하지 못했습니다.

    jinwoo KIM - Antwort

    I used a heat gun from about 3 feet away with my hand right next to the iPad to gauge how hot it was. In the end you need the edge of the screen almost but not too hot to touch

    Rich Pepp - Antwort

    Did it with the IOppener! Just be patient. It seems the les harmfull way of doing it. I just had to reheat it few times.

    Lucarelli Dorian - Antwort

    Wish I'd have known alk these tools were here before I tried replacing the battery on my iPad Air 2 only to mess up the digitizer or the LCD screen one. Since they come together in replacement guess doesn't really matter which one is messed up. Or does it? Hmmm.

    Darlene - Antwort

  7. Von außen sieht das iPad gleichförmig aus, aber unter der Glasoberfläche gibt es an verschiedenen Stellen empfindliche Bauteile. Um Schäden zu vermeiden, darfst du nur die in jedem Schritt beschriebenen Stellen erwärmen und an ihnen arbeiten. Passe bei den folgenden Schritten besonders auf und vermeide es dort zu hebeln: Am Home Button
    • Von außen sieht das iPad gleichförmig aus, aber unter der Glasoberfläche gibt es an verschiedenen Stellen empfindliche Bauteile. Um Schäden zu vermeiden, darfst du nur die in jedem Schritt beschriebenen Stellen erwärmen und an ihnen arbeiten.

    • Passe bei den folgenden Schritten besonders auf und vermeide es dort zu hebeln:

    • Am Home Button

    • An der Frontkamera

    • An der Hauptkamera

    you should be careful with the screen connector on the bottom right when opening

    Elyazee Eble Altenawe - Antwort

    I accidentally cut the volume cable as when I tried to gently pry that corner area with the iFixit triangular plastic openers, one needed to be pushed quite hard to open the screen and slipped, the cable was stuck to both the screen digitiser glue and the case, so when I pried the screen off, the cable tore. iPad still works but annoying the glue is so strong.

    Mork Olimorph - Antwort

    Well, there is actually only 2mm at the bottom just around the home button. Be careful! I broke mine since iFixit didn’t point that out!

    Konzentrat - Antwort

  8. Setze einen Saugnapf über die Frontkamera des iPads und drücke ihn fest, damit er sich festsaugt. Um die größte Hebelwirkung zu erzielen, setze den Saugnapf so nahe wie möglich an der Kante an, gehe aber nicht über den Rand des Displays.
    • Setze einen Saugnapf über die Frontkamera des iPads und drücke ihn fest, damit er sich festsaugt.

    • Um die größte Hebelwirkung zu erzielen, setze den Saugnapf so nahe wie möglich an der Kante an, gehe aber nicht über den Rand des Displays.

    This is the trickiest and scariest part of the procedure. (read all of the comments in Steps 1 and 2 and at the end of the guide). The iOpener also did not work for me - it simply would not soften the glue enough. I used a blowdryer. Have lots of patience and be gentle! I did not pull up on the suction cup very much. I softened the glue enough that I could get my fingernail under the glass, then I was able to wedge the pick in beside it. The rest of the screen removal went easy with the blowdryer and blue picks.

    Nancy Hansen - Antwort

    It helps to know that the adhesive is v narrow (2-3 mm) tapes, not great globs of bitumen. Once the seal is broken, you’ve won. Also, the shiny bezel is part of the metal body, not the screen, so get your widget between the glass and the bezel. And be patient. Even with a heat gun and IR thermometer it still took me 30 mins to get the screen off.

    Richard O'Brien - Antwort

    The screen glass can only be pulled up a fraction of a millimetre, just enough to insert the mere tip of an opening pick.

    The glue then gives way very slowly. Give it time to release before moving the pick slowly further in. If you pull the pick out without wedging the gap open with another pick the glue will re bind and you are back where you started.

    I used a very cheap Aldi laser thermometer to check temperatures. The glue seems to loosen at 41C+, although the heat takes time to penetrate.

    David Kennedy - Antwort

    When I purchased a new replacement battery, it came with a suction cup. That cheap cup wasn’t able to hold on the screen. luckily I had a set of heavy duty suction cups when I made a repair on my iMac. I recommend investing in the heavy duty cups.

    Heavy-Duty Suction Cups (Pair)

    These provide an excellent vacuum seal and leverage to lift the screen. Be careful and make sure you soften up the adhesive or you will crack the screen.

    Charles Meitin - Antwort

  9. Ziehe kräftig am Saugnapf, um einen kleinen Spalt zwischen der Vorderscheibe und dem Rückgehäuse zu schaffen. Ziehe aber auch nicht zu stark sonst könnte die Scheibe splittern. Wenn der Spalt groß genug ist, kannst du ein Plektrum hinein schieben, so bleibt die Klebestelle offen.
    • Ziehe kräftig am Saugnapf, um einen kleinen Spalt zwischen der Vorderscheibe und dem Rückgehäuse zu schaffen.

    • Ziehe aber auch nicht zu stark sonst könnte die Scheibe splittern.

    • Wenn der Spalt groß genug ist, kannst du ein Plektrum hinein schieben, so bleibt die Klebestelle offen.

    Even using a heat gun in an effort to soften the remarkably tenacious adhesive, I found it impossible to use the suction cup to lift the edge of the screen sufficiently high to insert a pick. I ended up using an exacto knife and a single-edge razor blade to make the initial opening, after which I was able to insert and use picks per the instructions.

    James Steffy - Antwort

    If you have the screen hot enough then it does lift and leave a small gap. I was really surprised. I was using the stronger suction cup that you can buy separately though

    Rich Pepp - Antwort

  10. Fahre mit dem Plektrum an der Kante des Displays in Richtung der Ohrhörerbuchse entlang. Wenn doch noch ein stärkerer Widerstand dabei zu spüren ist, wiederhole die Erwärmprozedur mit dem iOpener. Achte sehr darauf mit dem Plektrum nicht in die Verbindung zwischen Frontglas und LCD Schirm zu geraten, das könnte das Display irreparabel schädigen.
    • Fahre mit dem Plektrum an der Kante des Displays in Richtung der Ohrhörerbuchse entlang.

    • Wenn doch noch ein stärkerer Widerstand dabei zu spüren ist, wiederhole die Erwärmprozedur mit dem iOpener.

    • Achte sehr darauf mit dem Plektrum nicht in die Verbindung zwischen Frontglas und LCD Schirm zu geraten, das könnte das Display irreparabel schädigen.

    • Als gute Faustregel gilt, das Plektrum nie mehr als 6 mm in das iPad einzusetzen.

    I think I accidently slid my tool into the fused lcd and front panel and now the entire screen is doing weird lines and different colors and just is not natural its not even usable. I was gonna replace the battery because the batter was popping the entire front panel and lcd off of the base of the device and then when i was openingit up the rest of the way I slipped and it hit something and now its all glitchy. what should i do?? is it even worth fixing anymore? it;s too old for apple care and I already voided the warranty and displays are expensive what should I do? email me @ andrew.heidorn1@gmail.com thanks :)

    Andrew Heidorn - Antwort

    “a quarter of an inch” might be OK for the US/UK… what about pretty much the rest of the world using the metric system? When giving measurements, please always include them also in mm/cm

    Denis Hay - Antwort

    A quick google search will give you the answer

    Stranger Danger -

    Metric is for engineers. Last place on earth to use inches is US car industry. NASA uses metric. You know it makes sense.

    Peter Goodall - Antwort

    I shattered the glass on my iPad during this step.

    To melt the adhesive, you have to heat the glass A LOT, to at least 80°C. I was using a portable infrared thermometer while doing this. Heating the iOpener in my microwave for 60 seconds only raised its temperature to about 90°C, and leaving it on the glass for a few minutes didn’t raise the temperature of the glass to more than about 40°C. I switched to a hair dryer and heated the glass to about 70°C, which was barely enough to be able to insert one pick. As soon as I tried to slide it across, the glass broke.

    I recommend having a reliable way to measure the temperature, and finding something that can heat more effectively than the iOpener. Also take caution to heat all along the top, not just the point where you’re inserting the pick. In theory the iOpener is designed for this, but it doesn’t get hot enough.

    I wish the iOpener came with a specific heat rating. It has many warnings against overheating it but it’s not clear exactly how much is too much.

    Daniel Corks - Antwort

    6mm is far too much at the side. There is only 4mm from edge of glass to the display unit . I guess I damages my display because the pledge had gone between glass and display.

    tobiasscholand - Antwort

    The picks should have a 5mm indent on them so you can’t push them in to far, at least on one of the tips

    mpulliam - Antwort

    warning! The gap just below the home button is 2mm. Be very careful. It is the thinnest space!

    jinwoo KIM - Antwort

    Yep, this is the single most important instruction and where I like others screwed up. You really can't insert the pick more that 4mm otherwise it risks going between the screen and the digitiser. There is almost no resistance so it is very easy to do. It is almost worth marking a 4 mm depth on each pick before starting. Getting the adhesive to lift was really easy it the screen is hot enough, sticking the pick in too far is also too easy :(

    Rich Pepp - Antwort

  11. Setze ein zweites Plektrum in der Nähe der Frontkamera ein. Setze ein zweites Plektrum in der Nähe der Frontkamera ein.
    • Setze ein zweites Plektrum in der Nähe der Frontkamera ein.

  12. Fahre mit dem zweiten Plektrum an der Oberkante des iPad entlang in Richtung des Aufweckknopfes. Fahre mit dem zweiten Plektrum an der Oberkante des iPad entlang in Richtung des Aufweckknopfes. Fahre mit dem zweiten Plektrum an der Oberkante des iPad entlang in Richtung des Aufweckknopfes.
    • Fahre mit dem zweiten Plektrum an der Oberkante des iPad entlang in Richtung des Aufweckknopfes.

  13. Setze ein drittes Plektrum bei der Frontkamera ein. Setze ein drittes Plektrum bei der Frontkamera ein.
    • Setze ein drittes Plektrum bei der Frontkamera ein.

  14. Fahre mit dem rechten Plektrum herunter und  um die rechte obere Ecke des iPads. Fahre mit dem rechten Plektrum herunter und  um die rechte obere Ecke des iPads. Fahre mit dem rechten Plektrum herunter und  um die rechte obere Ecke des iPads.
    • Fahre mit dem rechten Plektrum herunter und um die rechte obere Ecke des iPads.

  15. Fahre mit dem linken Plektrum um die linke obere Ecke des iPad. Fahre mit dem linken Plektrum um die linke obere Ecke des iPad. Fahre mit dem linken Plektrum um die linke obere Ecke des iPad.
    • Fahre mit dem linken Plektrum um die linke obere Ecke des iPad.

  16. Erwärme den iOpener wieder und lege ihn auf die rechte Kante des Displays, um den darunterliegenden Kleber auszuweichen.
    • Erwärme den iOpener wieder und lege ihn auf die rechte Kante des Displays, um den darunterliegenden Kleber auszuweichen.

  17. Schiebe das rechte Plektrum bis etwa zur Mitte der rechten Seite. Schiebe das rechte Plektrum bis etwa zur Mitte der rechten Seite. Schiebe das rechte Plektrum bis etwa zur Mitte der rechten Seite.
    • Schiebe das rechte Plektrum bis etwa zur Mitte der rechten Seite.

    take care not to insert more than 4mm!

    tobiasscholand - Antwort

    100% agree with the above comment - this wrecked my screen

    Nicholas Giles - Antwort

  18. Erwärmen den iOpener wieder und lege ihn auf die linke Seite des iPad.
    • Erwärmen den iOpener wieder und lege ihn auf die linke Seite des iPad.

  19. Schiebe das linke Plektrum bis etwa zur Mitte der Kante des Displays. Schiebe das linke Plektrum bis etwa zur Mitte der Kante des Displays. Schiebe das linke Plektrum bis etwa zur Mitte der Kante des Displays.
    • Schiebe das linke Plektrum bis etwa zur Mitte der Kante des Displays.

  20. Schiebe das gegenüberliegende Plektrum bis an die rechte untere Ecke des iPad. Erwärme falls nötig wieder den Kleber an der rechten Kante um die Displayeinheit zu lösen. Erwärme falls nötig wieder den Kleber an der rechten Kante um die Displayeinheit zu lösen.
    • Schiebe das gegenüberliegende Plektrum bis an die rechte untere Ecke des iPad.

    • Erwärme falls nötig wieder den Kleber an der rechten Kante um die Displayeinheit zu lösen.

    This is it. This was the step where I cracked the screen and ruined the device. Things had been going so well up to this point. Like many others I struggled with the iOpener, so I used a heat gun along with a temperature sensor and very carefully and slowly went back and forth along the edges keeping the temperature at exactly 200 degrees F. I got the pick in, went around the top corners, down the sides to the middle. But on this step where you finish sliding the pick to the bottom right corner, I got 3/4ths of the way down and CRACK. The glass shattered pretty badly in the corner, and there’s a crack running diagonally along the entire device. I put clear packing tape on top to keep it from cracking further, but sections of the screen are non-responsive. I can’t tell you how upset my 5 year old is going to be when he wakes up tomorrow and I have to tell him daddy wrecked his iPad. :( I believe strongly in the Right to Repair and this kit is fine. But GO SLOWLY, and BE CAREFUL.

    George Mann - Antwort

    I also cracked the screen at this same point. The glue has to be heated well, and the sliding should be smooth and easy, not too tight. Go slow, and heat frequently.

    arunpgi - Antwort

  21. Fahre das linke Plektrum die Kante des Displays herunter bis zur Ecke. Fahre das linke Plektrum die Kante des Displays herunter bis zur Ecke. Fahre das linke Plektrum die Kante des Displays herunter bis zur Ecke.
    • Fahre das linke Plektrum die Kante des Displays herunter bis zur Ecke.

    I made it one step farther than the person above me. Made it about 1 inch from the bottom left corner and the screen shattered. I probably let it cool too much as I think I was getting a little impatient by now. The kit is great though. I successfully removed the rest of the screen even after it broke with no damage to anything else. I continued on to replace the battery and bought a new LCD (This was a roughly $130 mistake). I stress, go slowly, heat often. Kit worked great otherwise.

    Joseph Eichinger - Antwort

  22. Erwärme nun mit dem iOpener auch die untere Kante des iPad.
    • Erwärme nun mit dem iOpener auch die untere Kante des iPad.

  23. Fahre mit dem rechten Plektrum um die rechte untere Ecke. Fahre mit dem rechten Plektrum um die rechte untere Ecke. Fahre mit dem rechten Plektrum um die rechte untere Ecke.
    • Fahre mit dem rechten Plektrum um die rechte untere Ecke.

  24. Wiederhole für das linke Plektrum. Falls nötig musst du den iOpener wieder anwenden. Warte zwischen den Anwendungen mindestens 10 min! Falls nötig musst du den iOpener wieder anwenden. Warte zwischen den Anwendungen mindestens 10 min!
    • Wiederhole für das linke Plektrum.

    • Falls nötig musst du den iOpener wieder anwenden. Warte zwischen den Anwendungen mindestens 10 min!

  25. Entferne das rechte Plektrum unten am iPad. Entferne das rechte Plektrum unten am iPad.
    • Entferne das rechte Plektrum unten am iPad.

    F…ing cracked the glass. This repair is a waste of time and money. The iOpener is b.s. You need to use a heat gun and/or a blow dryer. I had used the heat gun and a blow dryer to successfully separated the glass from the body until I reached the bottom. This is becuase I had left the heated iOpener on the bottom for at least 20 minutes. I used the blow dryer for the top and sides and it worked. When I turned the corner on the bottom, the glass shattered. The tip of pick was not in very far, maybe 2mm. Guess my only option now is a new iPad.

    mpulliam - Antwort

    same here, and I’m not using their $2 dinky microwave palm rest, I have a head gun and I’ve been heating this thing for 20 mintues side by side. Still cracked the class. Don’t attempt this, to do this successfully you should’ve had cracked 10 screens.

    Hussam Almuayad - Antwort

  26. Schiebe das linke Plektrum an der Unterkante des Displays entlang und entferne es dann von der rechten unteren Ecke des iPads. Sei am Home Button besonders vorsichtig und schiebe das Plektrum nicht tiefer als 2 mm unter ihn ein, um Schäden am Home Button zu vermeiden. Sei  links und rechts seitlich vom Home Button besonders vorsichtig und setze das Plektrum nicht tiefer als 6 mm hinein, um Schäden an den Displaykabeln darunter zu vermeiden.
    • Schiebe das linke Plektrum an der Unterkante des Displays entlang und entferne es dann von der rechten unteren Ecke des iPads.

    • Sei am Home Button besonders vorsichtig und schiebe das Plektrum nicht tiefer als 2 mm unter ihn ein, um Schäden am Home Button zu vermeiden.

    • Sei links und rechts seitlich vom Home Button besonders vorsichtig und setze das Plektrum nicht tiefer als 6 mm hinein, um Schäden an den Displaykabeln darunter zu vermeiden.

    warning! The gap just below the home button is 2mm. Be very careful. It is the thinnest space!

    jinwoo KIM - Antwort

    Well, there is actually only 2mm at the bottom just around the home button. Be careful! I broke mine since iFixit didn’t point that out!

    Konzentrat - Antwort

    Thanks for the comments! I’ll add the warning into the step.

    Arthur Shi - Antwort

  27. Drehe das letzte verbliebene Plektrum an der Frontkamera hin und her, um das obere Teil des Displays vom hinteren Gehäuse zu lösen. Drehe das letzte verbliebene Plektrum an der Frontkamera hin und her, um das obere Teil des Displays vom hinteren Gehäuse zu lösen. Drehe das letzte verbliebene Plektrum an der Frontkamera hin und her, um das obere Teil des Displays vom hinteren Gehäuse zu lösen.
    • Drehe das letzte verbliebene Plektrum an der Frontkamera hin und her, um das obere Teil des Displays vom hinteren Gehäuse zu lösen.

  28. Fahre fort die Displayeinheit von der Frontkamera-Seite aus anzuheben. Ziehe sie leicht von der Unterkante weg um sie ganz vom rückwärtigen Gehäuse zu lösen. Hebe weiter an, bis die Displayeinheit fast rechtwinklig zum Gehäuse des iPad steht.
    • Fahre fort die Displayeinheit von der Frontkamera-Seite aus anzuheben.

    • Ziehe sie leicht von der Unterkante weg um sie ganz vom rückwärtigen Gehäuse zu lösen.

    • Hebe weiter an, bis die Displayeinheit fast rechtwinklig zum Gehäuse des iPad steht.

    • Versuche noch nicht das Display ganz zu entfernen, es ist noch mit drei empfindlichen Flachbandkabeln mit dem hinteren Gehäuse verbunden.

  29. Eine einzelne 1,8 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube sichert die Batterieanschlüsse auf der Hauptplatine. Drehe sie heraus.
    • Eine einzelne 1,8 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube sichert die Batterieanschlüsse auf der Hauptplatine. Drehe sie heraus.

    Be very careful when replacing the screws not to lose them. They are micro small. I would even think about ordering a couple extra of each size just in case.

    David Christoff - Antwort

    What I did was, initially using a magnetic screwdriver bit, after removing putting them on a magnetic mat, then after removing cables I screwed them back into the original holes to hold them in safe place while completing the repair.

    Yes, those screws are some of the tiniest screws I have seen, on par with mechanical watch mechanism screws.

    Drop one of them, and you are screwed.

    G Trieste -

    I have damge this battery terminals to their contacts on the logic board when I remove the battery. So how to fix this? Can buy that hardware to make replacement? Urgent! Need Help!

    jackwong.123 - Antwort

    Hi jackwong,

    If you are talking about the small springs that contact the battery, there is no easy way to replace them. You can try removing the board, applying a lump of solder on the contact with the broken spring, and see if that will be sufficient to connect to the battery contact when the board is screwed down.

    Arthur Shi -

    If the LTE version being worked on, ensure the sim tray is removed before attempting to isolate the battery.

    Brendon Gould - Antwort

    Is the logic board on the iFixit battery replacement thicker than the Apple battery? I can’t screw in this 1.8mm screw.

    Taylor Kosiba - Antwort

  30. Die Bilder zeigen, wie der Akkuanschluss unter dem Logic Board aussieht. Schaue sie dir gut an, bevor du den Akku sicher abtrennst. Beachte, dass der Akkuanschluss durch Federn auf dem Logic Board nach unten gegen die Kontakte gedrückt wird. Zum Abtrennen musst du ein dünnes und flexibles Werkzeug zwischen die Kontakte einschieben. Beachte, dass der Akkuanschluss durch Federn auf dem Logic Board nach unten gegen die Kontakte gedrückt wird. Zum Abtrennen musst du ein dünnes und flexibles Werkzeug zwischen die Kontakte einschieben.
    • Die Bilder zeigen, wie der Akkuanschluss unter dem Logic Board aussieht. Schaue sie dir gut an, bevor du den Akku sicher abtrennst.

    • Beachte, dass der Akkuanschluss durch Federn auf dem Logic Board nach unten gegen die Kontakte gedrückt wird. Zum Abtrennen musst du ein dünnes und flexibles Werkzeug zwischen die Kontakte einschieben.

  31. Du kannst das Risiko eines Kurzschlusses verringern, wenn du ein spezielles Plektrum, das &quot;battery isolation pick&quot; (deutsch Akkublocker) verwendest, um den Akku abzuklemmen. Wenn du den Akku mit einem Akkublocker abtrennst, musst du sehr vorsichtig sein. Die Akkukontakte sind sehr empfindlich und können leicht verbogen und dauerhaft beschädigt werden.
    • Du kannst das Risiko eines Kurzschlusses verringern, wenn du ein spezielles Plektrum, das "battery isolation pick" (deutsch Akkublocker) verwendest, um den Akku abzuklemmen.

    • Wenn du den Akku mit einem Akkublocker abtrennst, musst du sehr vorsichtig sein. Die Akkukontakte sind sehr empfindlich und können leicht verbogen und dauerhaft beschädigt werden.

    • Schiebe den Akkublocker unter den Akkuanschluss auf dem Logic Board und lasse ihn dort, solange du arbeitet.

    • Du kannst auch mit Hilfe dieser Anleitung einen Akkublocker aus einer Spielkarte herstellen. Schiebe sie dann zum Abtrennen des Akkus unter den Anschluss unter dem Logic Board.

    Where am I supposed to get this part? I got the ifixit pro toolkit and didn't get this isolation pick

    Raid One - Antwort

    Since the battery blocker is a specialized tool used only for iPad repairs, we do not include it in the toolkit. You can purchase one here, or you can make one yourself by cutting a notch out of an opening pick.

    Arthur Shi -

    Can’t you just disconnect the battery?

    Pontus Sennerstam - Antwort

    So if this method is outdated, what is the current method to disconnecting the battery?

    Orochi - Antwort

    Orochi: right?? Come on guys, don’t tell us the method is outdated and then not explain what the better method is

    Subtle Hyperbole - Antwort

    A couple points: 1) You have piqued my interest! I’m now looking for the new, improved way to isolate the battery before embarking on the repair. 2) I have an iPad Air 2 with LTE, the area on ifixit.com for the LTE variant of the model does not have all the procedures that this WIFI only variant page has.

    bentley - Antwort

    Hey bentley,

    If you find a way to safely isolate the battery without the risk of damaging the connector pins, keep us posted!

    Arthur Shi -

    I did not do this part and had no problems. Just don’t bridge any metal parts with the screwdriver. (at least I assume this is what would cause a short)

    Nancy Hansen - Antwort

    Actually you can cause some shorts with your fingers too. You can skip this step, but you must bee very carefull going on.

    Daniele Carminati -

    Heat motherboard then use plastic stick or guitar pick to gently unstick motherboard enough to insert peace of paper where battery contacts are.

    Thank me later.

    Popka Durak - Antwort

    I took a business card and notched it like the shown pick. Just wide enough to fit and notched to clear the screw post. Worked like a champ.

    Charles Meitin - Antwort

    마더보드는 바닥판에 접착되어 있습니다. 이것은 배터리 접점에서 들어 올려져야(약간 구부러져야) 합니다. 사진을 자세히 보시면 터미널의 좌우 기판도 보입니다.

    jinwoo KIM - Antwort

    jinwoo KIM’s comment translated:

    The motherboard is glued to the bottom plate. This must be lifted (slightly bent) from the battery contacts. If you look closely at the photos, you will also see the left and right boards of the terminal.

    G Trieste - Antwort

    I recently successfully replaced a battery on this unit.

    I did not see why the warning at the top of this repair guide is necessary, as the battery is connected via several contacts surrounding the screw hole, and the insulating pick they show, or something similarly shaped, should work at isolating the battery. Of course this is only my observation, so take it as you may, I make no assurances of anything.

    Removing/replacing the battery is whole ‘nother ballgame however.

    The ipad’s contacts are pressed down on the battery contacts, around the hole, that screw hole has an elevated bump which the battery connections have to be slid up and over that bump, requiring the lifting of the ipad connector and possibly part of the motherboard — which is also thermal glued to the case; you may have to heat up the bottom of the case to release that enough to lift.

    I am going to post this info also on the battery replacement repair section for this model.

    G Trieste - Antwort

  32. Entferne die drei 1,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben  von der Halterung des Displaykabels. Entferne die Halterung. Entferne die Halterung.
    • Entferne die drei 1,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben von der Halterung des Displaykabels.

    • Entferne die Halterung.

  33. Entferne den Verbinder des Displaykabels aus seinem Anschluss auf der Hauptplatine. Entferne den Verbinder des Displaykabels aus seinem Anschluss auf der Hauptplatine.
    • Entferne den Verbinder des Displaykabels aus seinem Anschluss auf der Hauptplatine.

  34. Unter diesem Displaydatenkabel sind noch zwei weitere Digitizerkabel. Löse sie. Unter diesem Displaydatenkabel sind noch zwei weitere Digitizerkabel. Löse sie. Unter diesem Displaydatenkabel sind noch zwei weitere Digitizerkabel. Löse sie.
    • Unter diesem Displaydatenkabel sind noch zwei weitere Digitizerkabel. Löse sie.

    I don’t know where this repair guide is going at this point.

    It is supposed to be a guide to replace the battery, but goes on to a complete disassembly of the iPad. You don’t have to disassemble the whole iPad to replace the battery.

    The battery is inserted underneath the motherboard’s power connection slot. There is a screw that secures it, which is removed during battery replacement. The screw hole is on an elevated bump which the battery contacts have to be slid up and over, requiring the partial lifting of the motherboard at the battery connection — if necessary heat up the bottom of the case there to lift it up.

    When secured, the insert contacts sit around the hole. The tricky part is lifting that part high enough so that the battery connector can get over the bump, and the holes line up.

    I have found a hack that makes this a lot easier. Simply snip a small slot at the front of the hole of the battery connector. This way it does not have to lift over the bump, but can slide around it on both sides.

    G Trieste - Antwort

    I would love to see a guide on how to replace the charging/data connector.

    There was a comment under the part-page that mentioned it was tricky to replace due to the soldering involved.

    Do i need a hot-air station or will my fine tipped iron be enough?

    Mark Hoekman - Antwort

  35. Entferne die Front Panel Einheit vom hinteren Gehäuseteil.
    • Entferne die Front Panel Einheit vom hinteren Gehäuseteil.

    • Wenn du vorhast, deine Displayeinheit wiederzuverwenden, musst du die Display-Klebestreifen ersetzen. Folge unserer Anleitung für iPad Klebestreifen, um die Display-Klebestreifen einzusetzen und dein Gerät wieder zu verschließen.

    Note on my iPad Air there was a little plastic cover around the front facing camera. Take that off an put it to one side as you will need it later for reassembly.

    John McDonnell - Antwort

    At this stage I found you do not need to do most of the rest of this guide although it does come with a warning. The battery is tethered to a metal ring which is the base of the retention screw in step 29. After Step 33, you can separate out the batteries from its adhesive now with a blow dryer or the iOpener (step 56). You will then find the battery free but hooked onto the ring. Take the blue opening tool (see step 55 for which tool this is) and wedge it where the battery is to make a gap. You can then lift the battery contact from its hook. After removing the battery, insert the new one into the small gap created by the wedge. The caveat is that you are bending the logic board a bit with the wedge so use this technique at your discretion.

    Raza Toosy - Antwort

    Thanks a lot! For my Celluar version (A1567 Air 2 Wi-Fi + Cellular), I followed the instructions to step 45 to remove all cables and connectors around the battery. Then I also jumped to step 56. To remove the middle part of the battery, I used a longer tool, a ruler, in addition to the enclosed "Plastic Cards". The glued battery could be removed by using the iOpener several times. In the end, the battery was only hanging on the clamp.

    Only now I understood that the battery was hanging on an eyelet on the back. The lever with the "iPad Battery Isolation Pick" was not enough. Therefore I cut an additional credit card with a small slot. The clamping point slipped out of the eyelet. The clamping point of the new battery could be plugged in again immediately.

    Josef Emmer -

    Thank you Raza for this shortcut. I used it as you explained and made a slight change. I noticed that the eye on the battery’s contact is not really locking the battery in place. It is the powerful glue that does. In addition, the screw in step 29 secures the contact assembly. So, to facilitate the positioning of the replacement battery, I cut the eye to make it a U, so that I could slide the eye around the holding ring without risking to bend the logic board.

    Richard Jacquot - Antwort

    I understand the process and reasoning for snipping the ring of the new battery to get it around that post, but how are you removing the old one without bending the logic board? You still have to get the ring of the old one up and over that raised post portion?

    Jason McCOy -

    2022-02-27 update: Manage to skip step 35 onward. I can change the battery without removing the logic board for my iPad Air 2 . It’s similar to the steps in iPad Air LTE Akku austauschen. Thanks Raza for the tips.

    Wex - Antwort

  36. Lege das Display mit dem Glas nach unten. Benutze einen Plastiköffnungswerkzeug um die Halteklammer von der Rückseite des Home Button zu hebeln. Benutze einen Plastiköffnungswerkzeug um die Halteklammer von der Rückseite des Home Button zu hebeln.
    • Lege das Display mit dem Glas nach unten.

    • Benutze einen Plastiköffnungswerkzeug um die Halteklammer von der Rückseite des Home Button zu hebeln.

    May require pushing back some tape to access the slot for the opening tool

    Terry Dactil - Antwort

    • Entferne die Klammer des Home Buttons und löse das daran befestigte Band.

    • Beim Zusammenbau musst du, nachdem der Home Button eingebaut ist, diese Klammer wieder an ihrer alten Stelle festkleben.

    • Kratze soviel von den alten Klebstoffresten auf der Klammer ab, wie du kannst. Reinige sie dann mit Azeton oder hochkonzentriertem (90% oder mehr) Isopropylalkohol.

    • Sicher die Klammer mit Heißkleber, Superkleber oder hochfestem doppelseitigem Klebeband Achte darauf, dass die Klammer korrekt ausgerichtet ist, bevor du den Kleber aushärten lässt, sonst wird der Home Button nicht richtig klicken, wenn du ihn drückst.

    attention à cette étape de ne pas décoller en même temps la gappe du bouton. Celui ci peux etre tordu et difficile à remettre.

    jipilabont - Antwort

  37. Löse das Band, welches den ZIF Verbinder des Home Buttons bedeckt. Löse das Band, welches den ZIF Verbinder des Home Buttons bedeckt. Löse das Band, welches den ZIF Verbinder des Home Buttons bedeckt.
    • Löse das Band, welches den ZIF Verbinder des Home Buttons bedeckt.

  38. Öffne die Halteklappe am Home Button Kabelanschluss  mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers. Öffne die Halteklappe am Home Button Kabelanschluss  mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers.
    • Öffne die Halteklappe am Home Button Kabelanschluss mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers.

  39. Ziehe das Flachbandkabel des Home Buttons aus seinem Stecker. Ziehe das Flachbandkabel des Home Buttons aus seinem Stecker.
    • Ziehe das Flachbandkabel des Home Buttons aus seinem Stecker.

  40. Hebe das Flachbandkabel des Home Buttons und den Steuerchip des Fingerabdrucksensors mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers an. Hebe das Flachbandkabel des Home Buttons und den Steuerchip des Fingerabdrucksensors mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers an. Hebe das Flachbandkabel des Home Buttons und den Steuerchip des Fingerabdrucksensors mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers an.
    • Hebe das Flachbandkabel des Home Buttons und den Steuerchip des Fingerabdrucksensors mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers an.

  41. Löse die noch übrige Ecke des Home Button Flachbandkabels ab. Löse die noch übrige Ecke des Home Button Flachbandkabels ab.
    • Löse die noch übrige Ecke des Home Button Flachbandkabels ab.

    What is the purpose of the contact finger that is exposed on the corner of the home button ribbon cable. What connects to this?

    Steven Teraoka - Antwort

  42. Erwärme wieder deinen iOpener und lege ihn über die Unterkante des Displays um den Klebstoff an der Dichtung des Home Buttons aufzuweichen.
    • Erwärme wieder deinen iOpener und lege ihn über die Unterkante des Displays um den Klebstoff an der Dichtung des Home Buttons aufzuweichen.

    • Warte etwa zwei Minuten bis der Kleber weich ist und du zum nächsten Schritt übergehen kannst.

    Most screens don’t come with the home button adhesive so during reassembly the residue from the home button gasket is enough but the bracket needs new glue.

    Thaddeus Lee - Antwort

  43. In den folgenden Schritten wird die Dichtung des Home Buttons vom Frontpanel des iPad getrennt. Diese Dichtung ist äußerst empfindlich und reißt schnell. Wenn sie sich nicht leicht lösen lässt, musst du noch einmal Wärme mit Hilfe des iOpeners  anwenden, bevor du weitermachst. Benutze die Spitze des Spudgers um ganz vorsichtig die ganze Home Button Einheit vom Display abzuheben. Benutze die Spitze des Spudgers um ganz vorsichtig die ganze Home Button Einheit vom Display abzuheben.
    • In den folgenden Schritten wird die Dichtung des Home Buttons vom Frontpanel des iPad getrennt. Diese Dichtung ist äußerst empfindlich und reißt schnell. Wenn sie sich nicht leicht lösen lässt, musst du noch einmal Wärme mit Hilfe des iOpeners anwenden, bevor du weitermachst.

    • Benutze die Spitze des Spudgers um ganz vorsichtig die ganze Home Button Einheit vom Display abzuheben.

    Another option… heat it up a bit and then apply gentle pressure from the front of the button. Start with one “corner” and work your way around.

    Mine came out like very smoothly with this process.

    Good luck!

    John Monahan - Antwort

  44. Arbeite dich weiterhin ganz vorsichtig mit der Spudgerspitze  um die Kante der  Dichtung bis diese ganz vom Frontpanel gelöst ist. Arbeite dich weiterhin ganz vorsichtig mit der Spudgerspitze  um die Kante der  Dichtung bis diese ganz vom Frontpanel gelöst ist. Arbeite dich weiterhin ganz vorsichtig mit der Spudgerspitze  um die Kante der  Dichtung bis diese ganz vom Frontpanel gelöst ist.
    • Arbeite dich weiterhin ganz vorsichtig mit der Spudgerspitze um die Kante der Dichtung bis diese ganz vom Frontpanel gelöst ist.

    Salve tra il pannello anteriore e il tasto home nuovo va messa della colla?

    Alessia - Antwort

  45. Entferne die ganze Home Button Einheit. Wenn du die LCD Einheit austauschst, kannst du feststellen, dass manche Austauscheinheiten eine leicht abweichende Anordnung des Home Button Steckers haben. Du musst dann das Home Button Kabel in einer S-Form biegen, so wie im Bild gezeigt. Wenn du die LCD Einheit austauschst, kannst du feststellen, dass manche Austauscheinheiten eine leicht abweichende Anordnung des Home Button Steckers haben. Du musst dann das Home Button Kabel in einer S-Form biegen, so wie im Bild gezeigt.
    • Entferne die ganze Home Button Einheit.

    • Wenn du die LCD Einheit austauschst, kannst du feststellen, dass manche Austauscheinheiten eine leicht abweichende Anordnung des Home Button Steckers haben. Du musst dann das Home Button Kabel in einer S-Form biegen, so wie im Bild gezeigt.

    There is also a plastic waster around the hole which can be lifted and placed on the new screen - not just the grommet.

    John McDonnell - Antwort

    Yeah, that’s a big problem with this guide. Not to mention the home button bracket needs the little magnet in the circle dimple. I broke my original home button from trying to get the darn thing to work using a new home button bracket until I used the old bracket with the tiny magnet and suddenly it worked. Since the original home button ribbon had broken I can no longer use touch ID.

    Overall this guide is really lacking in critical details, like how exactly the home button assembly is put together and taken apart, like where the little plastic washer, and grommet go.

    Grant Godfrey - Antwort

    And this picture is out of focus, making it hard to differentiate the items that are mentioned/warned about in the written portion.

    Evan A Boyle - Antwort

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11 Kommentare

There is a small black plastic ring between the back of the glass and the home button gasket that no one seems to be mentioning. Do you see it? It does not appear on any of the photos. What's up with that?

Tim - Antwort

Its the washer, better to transfer to new screen if the screen does not come with the washer. Without the washer the home button will work fine, just feel weird. Good luck

hatrongminh -

Changing the home button, the touch ID stills working? Or we lose this function?

Jose - Antwort

As I understand it, the touch ID chip on the home button ribbon cable is paired to the logic board at the factory. Unless you put the same home button assembly back, you will lose the touch ID when a replacement home button assembly is installed. The home button will work but without touch ID

James Sturgeon - Antwort

I confirm it. I had personally checked it on iPhones and now on iPads. Thanks for the answer ;)

Jose - Antwort

I just received iFixit LCD/digitizer/glass replacement assembly for iPad Air 2 (A1566) and see the distance between the IC’s on either side of the home button ribbon cable is narrower than on the original LCD! There is no room for the Touch ID chip since the distance from the Ziff connector (where the home button ribbon cable attaches) to the IC next to where the Touch ID chip goes is narrower by about 8mm!

Is there a new version of the home button with a shorter ribbon cable or is this a mistake in the replacement screens? To re-use the original home button you would have to fold its ribbon cable or put the Touch chip up on the IC so it would probably not allow the screen assembly to seat properly.

Has anyone else had this problem?

James Sturgeon - Antwort

James, I am having the same problem. I think the iFixit stock is goofy in this regard. Not good.

William Setterberg -

Anyone have a fix for this? I am having a similar problem and can't get the home button to work

Joseph Graham -

Same issue. Their solution is to put an “s” curve on the ribbon. Mine has a stiff piece on it and I’m afraid I’ll tear it if I remove it. Very frustrating and very little help

Jack -

If the Home Button and Touch ID for an iPad Air 2 are not working.

What Part number would you recommend so I can replace them both and have the functionality of Home Button and Touch ID?

Please give me your recommendation.

Thank you, EA

eafg66 - Antwort

I replace the new screen of iPad Air 2 successfully with original same home button. Everything works except finger prints failed. I tried to fix from software but finger prints does not work, only home button function works. Any idea what is solution ?

iRepairMan - Antwort

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