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Repariere deine Sachen

Recht auf Reparatur

Werkzeug & Ersatzteile

Einleitung

Verwende diese Anleitung, um das Frontglas und die Touch Screen Einheit auf einem iPad Air LTE zu ersetzen. Dies ist nützlich, wenn zum Beispiel dein Frontglas Risse aufweist oder nicht mehr auf Berührung reagiert. Wenn du das Display selbst ersetzen musst, benutze diese Anleitung

In Teilen dieser Anleitung wurde das Wi-Fi Modell genutzt, weshalb das Innenleben etwas anders aussehen kann, als beim LTE Modell. Die Schritte sind für beide Modelle die gleichen, außer wo es explizit erwähnt wird.

  1. Wir empfehlen die Mikrowelle vor dem Gebrauch zu reinigen, da sonst Essensreste oder Ähnliches am iOpener hängenbleiben können. Lege den iOpener in die Mitte der Mikrowelle.
    • Wir empfehlen die Mikrowelle vor dem Gebrauch zu reinigen, da sonst Essensreste oder Ähnliches am iOpener hängenbleiben können.

    • Lege den iOpener in die Mitte der Mikrowelle.

    • Für sich drehende Mikrowellen: Stelle sicher, dass der Teller sich drehen kann. Wenn der iOpener hängenbleibt kann er sich überhitzen und sogar Feuer fangen.

    which temperature must be used for heating? Thx

    fbarletta - Antwort

    I found you need to be very patient when using the iOpener. It's worth taking your time, giving the heat time to work on the glue. When I finally got the battery out, there were some strips of glue left behind that I just cleaned off with some isopropanol before installing the new battery.

    By the way, I had to run the iOpener for longer in my microwave for it to get hot enough. When it was too hot to touch, I figured it was hot enough for the batteries.

    Fredrik -

    I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.

    windizy - Antwort

    I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.

    Martin Gray - Antwort

    I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier

    Jan Van Puymbroeck - Antwort

    I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.

    Laurie Higgins - Antwort

    Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.

    Yousef Ghalib - Antwort

    Not everybody has a microwave. You need to state how long and at what temperature in a conventional oven.

    Esmond Pitt - Antwort

    My microwave just died, can i heat it with boiled water?

    Alex COLOMBANI - Antwort

    Taping as shown is impractical when using hair dryer method—tape simply comes off in the heat and gets in way of getting out the shards on the sides. If the thing wasn’t shattered, then taping unnecessary.

    B. A. Computer Services - Antwort

    I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).

    ian cheong - Antwort

    Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener

    Tim Feyaerts - Antwort

    The “Galaxy S8 Replacement Battery” that you are selling with the kit is the wrong battery, the one that you are selling is a 3000mAh (which is the wrong amperage) as the OEM Samsung Galaxy S8 battery is “Model #: EB-BG892ABA / 4000mAh / Normal Voltage: 3.85V / Charge Voltage: 4.4V / A/S: 1588-3366 4000mAh 15.0Wh

    stevengenat - Antwort

    The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.

    polleyphony - Antwort

    The iOpener did not work at all for me.

    I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.

    Mike Jeanette - Antwort

    Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.

    Kyle - Antwort

    The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.

    laurentvidu - Antwort

    I’ve tried for 2 days and cannot get this to work. I should have just taken it to my local iphone fixit shop. This is a frustrating purchase to say the least.

    jeffrey hill - Antwort

    Step 1 should be: now that you have looked over the tools of this repair kit, take your ipad to the nearest repair store and let them handle it. Sure you will waste about $65 by purchasing this kit and the cost of the repair but you will not tear your ipad up and you will have at least 2 days of your life that you can spend time with your family.

    jeffrey hill - Antwort

    Just replaced the battery in my iPad mini LTE. Followed the Ifix step by step instructions and they worked very well. The only thing i would change is step 42. You do not have to lift the LCD connector from the logic board. So don’t. It’s an unnecessary step. Other then that all was good. It took me about 2 1/2 hours from start to finish but I took my time and I recommend you take your time also. Very exciting too finish doing it and see it come to life afterwards. Tested everything and everything still works

    Anybody want to buy my iFix battery replacement tool kit only used once cheap?

    kaplang - Antwort

    i opener sucks! it’s incapable of heating factory glue enough to take a sealed phone apart and caused my backglass to shatter. i removed it the rest of the way with a soldering iron!

    Elijah Marvin - Antwort

    You should, at least, mention which wattage is used for the 30 seconds heating - 750 isn’t enough, obviously. Display shatterered . Thanks.

    dr_baeschtlr - Antwort

  2. Erhitze den iOpener für dreißig Sekunden.
    • Erhitze den iOpener für dreißig Sekunden.

    • Im Verlauf der Reparatur kühlt sich der iOpener wieder ab. Erhitze ihn dann noch einmal für dreißig Sekunden.

    • Achte darauf, den iOpener während der Reparatur nicht zu überhitzen. Eine Überhitzung bringt den iOpener möglicherweise zum Platzen.

    • Berühre niemals den iOpener, falls er aufgeschwollen aussieht.

    • Falls der iOpener in der Mitte immer noch zu heiß ist, um ihn anzufassen, dann benutze ihn weiter, bis er ein wenig herunter gekühlt ist, bevor du ihn erneut erhitzt. Ein ordnungsgemäß erhitzter iOpener sollte für bis zu 10 Minuten warm bleiben.

    May I know the temperate limit about heating iOpener? (maximum 150 degrees Celsius?) thx so much.

    yamayhuang - Antwort

    I had to heat mine up for more than 30 seconds. After 30 seconds on high it was only warm. It had to keep trying different times and checking it until it got hot. I think the initial time that I put it in for was over a minute.

    whale13 - Antwort

    DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.

    Alex Jackson - Antwort

    I don't own a microwave.

    mdanihy - Antwort

    Its again waterproof when you change iphone 7 battery?

    Jon - Antwort

    I don't have a microwave???

    Joe Blow - Antwort

    30 sec at which equivalent watts setting and what temperature does iOpener heats up to for 30 secs. Only just bought it so needs info before using it. Thanks

    Sam Stieg - Antwort

    can i use just ordinary microwave???

    juneseok kwon - Antwort

    If I don't have a microwave then I try to use hot air gun so how many munuts i want to heat ?

    Mohideen Rifay - Antwort

    I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.

    Travis Dixon - Antwort

    There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(

    assortedrubbish - Antwort

    All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone

    Greg Latta -

    I used a hot water bottle, works well as it covers the whole screen and stays hot for longer.

    dave - Antwort

    If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own

    Patrick Storey - Antwort

    I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.

    mark fitzgerald - Antwort

    30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.

    60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.

    I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.

    K

    Karl Marble - Antwort

    I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.

    Bernhard Keim - Antwort

    Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.

    Larry Bennett - Antwort

    I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!

    Fixrights - Antwort

    iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.

    digital_only - Antwort

    Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit

    Berard Romain - Antwort

    Bonjour,

    Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.

    Claire Rapp -

  3. Halte den iOpener an einem der flachen Enden und vermeide die heiße Mitte, während du ihn aus der Mikrowelle nimmst.
    • Halte den iOpener an einem der flachen Enden und vermeide die heiße Mitte, während du ihn aus der Mikrowelle nimmst.

    • Der Beutel wird sehr heiß, sei vorsichtig beim Gebrauch. Lege dir am besten einen Topflappen bereit.

    Will a hair dryer work for heating the glass?

    Me berg - Antwort

    Can you use an oven instead?

    Rafael -

    Yes, as does a heat gun.

    anonymous 4602 - Antwort

    I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.

    Cobus de Beer - Antwort

    microwave on WHAT WATTAGE ??? 100 W OR 1600 W ??? NOT THE SAME

    Ivor Pocrnja - Antwort

    This was not easy. I finally got a pick under the glass of my moto x4 phone after placing my phone on my kitchen hot plate and letting the hot plate go up to about 160F—measuring with a candy thermometer. I was scared of it(either the phone or the iopener) getting too hot—I checked in with another online video and saw they used a 100C heat gun for 2 min on the left side: When I figured that was 212F I got braver with heating the phone.—My screen and display were already broken. I can’t say exactly how long the phone was on the hot plate at 150-160 because the hotplate annoyingly goes on and off not sustaining a stable temperatureprobably a few

    Nahariyah Mosenkis - Antwort

  4. Wenn dein Touch Screen gebrochen ist, vermeide weitere Brüche und verletze dich nicht beim Berühren des Glases. Klebe Paketband über den Touch Screen des iPads, sodass die ganze Oberseite bedeckt ist. Das Klebeband deckt Splitter ab und hält den Touch Screen während dem Entfernen zusammen.
    • Wenn dein Touch Screen gebrochen ist, vermeide weitere Brüche und verletze dich nicht beim Berühren des Glases.

    • Klebe Paketband über den Touch Screen des iPads, sodass die ganze Oberseite bedeckt ist.

    • Das Klebeband deckt Splitter ab und hält den Touch Screen während dem Entfernen zusammen.

    • Bitte befolge die restliche Anleitung wie beschrieben. Wenn das Glas einmal gebrochen ist, wird es während der Reparatur weiter brechen. Eventuell benötigst du einen Metallspatel, um das Glas zu entfernen.

    • Trage eine Sicherheitsbrille, um deine Augen zu schützen. Sei vorsichtig und beschädige nicht das LCD.

    If you add clear packaging tape, it will create bubbles and the suction cup will become inefficient. To me it was impossible to remove the glass with the suction cup. Since the glass was very cracked, I had to resort to some tweaking with strong tape and pull the this off.

    jfmartin67 - Antwort

    If your screen is significantly cracked to the left edge, abandon this entire setup, prepare yourself for a 5-6 hour repair, expect a lot of patience, a lot of cursing and some good old American ingenuity. The suction cup and picks will not work. You have to carefully crack the glass yourself (w/out damaging the panel underneath and carefully pull it apart from the inside to the outside edges. Use a hairdryer to soften the glue under the cracked panel along the edges. Then use an exacto-knife to separate the pieces of the glued panel from the frame body, all the way around the device. Watch out for the home button ribbon connector when using the exacto-knife. There will be glue residue left over, carefully apply some goo-gone to a small area of a paper towel and wipe gently around the frame body to loosen the glue. Then use the plastic spudger tool to scrape off the excess glue.

    The iPad repair is VERY difficult. If you are a working adult, hire a pro. This is not for the faint of heart.

    aaroncope - Antwort

    The hairdryer option was way faster and easier than the iOpener. Be VERY careful not to damage the LCD- one small mistake will cost you an extra $100!

    Mike Martin -

    but I’m not American

    Andrew Williams -

    If your digitizer is shattered, the tape will help, but you’re going to need extra picks. Or a razor blade. See below.

    Blair Miller - Antwort

    Friendly observation that the image on this step is actually of an older ipad model as the side bezels are far too big. I don't know if that matters to anybody but a noob might see it and think this manual doesn't apply to them. : )

    notalawyer - Antwort

    I had the same experience. My glass was cracked all the way to the left side and the suction cup would not pull the glass up. The packaging tape also didn't help. The heat caused it to lift. I finally abandoned the tape, used a heat gun aimed very carefully at each broken piece of the screen. The picks did work with patience, but I just pulled off each broken part of the glass. I also found that pulling up on one broken part while heating in front of me would let the next piece pull up. I continued heating and breaking all the way around. Do the right side last. Took about 1 hour to get it off, and another hour to clean the old glue off the frame. BTW thanks to this web site and all the comments! No way I would have done this without all the help here! I am now clean and waiting for my new digitizer. I couldn't free the battery (below), so I left it powered up, and verified it till worked before throwing away the old glass. Vince

    Vince Asbridge - Antwort

    Taping with package tape doesn't work. You'll need a very large piece of tape if you go this route.

    Travis Dixon - Antwort

    Just finished successful repair. I would add this: most folks will be here because of cracked screen. This is not easy; believe the 'complex' rating on this repair. I put tape on my screen because it was badly cracked. This made the suction cup useless, because it just sucked the tape off the scree.n. I used the razor blade technique which worked great, it should be used in the demo, and a good blade should be in the kit.

    dale kingsbury - Antwort

  5. Lege den erhitzten iOpener auf die lange Seite links des Home Buttons. Lass den iOpener für mindestens eine Minute liegen, um den Kleber zu erhitzen und zu lösen.
    • Lege den erhitzten iOpener auf die lange Seite links des Home Buttons.

    • Lass den iOpener für mindestens eine Minute liegen, um den Kleber zu erhitzen und zu lösen.

    The iOpener doesn't work because the heat isn't strong enough. I used a hair dryer which proved to be much more efficient.

    jfmartin67 - Antwort

    The iOpener didnt work for me either. seems like it gets hot enough but it must not. I spent 30 min with the iOpener, then tried a hair dryer.

    kinchma - Antwort

    “At least a minute.” Bullshit. Get the iOpener good and hot, place it on the area you’re going to work on clear side down, and cover it with a towel. Walk away for 2 minutes. Make yourself a drink — you’ll need steady hands later.

    Blair Miller - Antwort

    I've done this with an iOpener and at least in my case, it worked fine. You may have to modify the heating instructions though, since not all microwaves are created equal.

    Jeff Suovanen - Antwort

    ii i just did this and it took a while but i figured it out it is true this thing doesnt get hot enough BUT heat it 2 times and then the 3rd time when u place it on the ipad put the ipad box on top and then maybe a second ipad on top of the box so it kinda smashes i down but not too much for it to break and then wait for it to turn warm THEN use the succion THEN the gap appears. the glue is super strong on the ipads so yea it will take some time lol

    Joel Tyson - Antwort

    Doesn't work. Perhaps include more copy on exactly how to do it?

    Travis Dixon - Antwort

    The iOpener does not work. It simply it is not hard enough to soften the glue. The heat hair dryer method does not work either.

    Javier Lozada - Antwort

    The goal is simply to weaken the glue enough that you can use your suction cup to open up a tiny gap under the glass, so you can insert an opening pick and slice through the adhesive. It doesn't actually take all that much heat; the picks will do most of the work once you get them in there. iOpeners, hair dryers, heat guns all work fine in my experience—the iOpener is just a bit more foolproof because it won't get hot enough to cook the display panel underneath.

    Jeff Suovanen - Antwort

    I used iron..surprise!! yeah pretty fast tho…put a layer of fabric (towel in my case) ontop, along the edge of screen and start ironing..

    :-)

    carvelera - Antwort

    If using a hair dryer or heat gun make sure it is not too high heat. My heat gun has two settings, one 750 degree and an 1100. After using it on high I discolored the digitizer and warped the LCD slightly (only shows on pure white backgrounds). Low worked for the rest of the repair just fine. Also using a razor blade or something besides the pick works nice for the initial pry. Once you have a gap big enough, insert the pic and you’re all set.

    Robert - Antwort

    I don’t have an iOpener, my heat gun wasn’t handy. The last time I did something like this it was a 90-100 degree day, so I just put it out in the sun for a while, and it worked great. This time it’s fall, so I used a 420W halogen Light that I have for photography. (A standard heat lamp would probably work too, but might take longer.) I held it close to the light until it felt hot to the touch, just a couple minutes, then I left is sitting about 16” below the light for 5-10 minutes to sink in and warm uniformly. It worked great.

    For me, steps 8-31 were basically one step "Carefully pry off the digitizer glass with the plastic tools" took all of 30 seconds.

    Seth Childers - Antwort

    Although very hard this does work. The first time opening the ipad after buying it 8+ years ago it took about 3 times of heating the iopener. It did require an amount of pressure I did not expect but it did come open as instructed. I did add a towel and apply pressure to the iopener to make sure the heat transferred.

    hmcarbajal - Antwort

    The iOpener didn’t work for me at all, zero, it literally did nothing. I resorted to my heat gun on low and yeah you need to be super careful, but once I started the adhesive came off pretty easy.

    David Yutzy - Antwort

  6. Es befinden sich viele empfindliche Komponenten unter dem Glas des iPads. Um Schäden zu vermeiden, erhitze und heble das Glas nur an den beschriebenen Stellen. Wenn du die einzelnen Schritte ausführst, pass besonders an folgenden Stellen auf, wenn du das Glas entfernst: Frontkamera
    • Es befinden sich viele empfindliche Komponenten unter dem Glas des iPads. Um Schäden zu vermeiden, erhitze und heble das Glas nur an den beschriebenen Stellen.

    • Wenn du die einzelnen Schritte ausführst, pass besonders an folgenden Stellen auf, wenn du das Glas entfernst:

    • Frontkamera

    • Antennen

    • Display und Touch Screen Kabel

    Don't assume anything!! I thought I was pulling on the screen connector and I was pulling on an antenna component instead. Didn't ruin its connection range but I sure remember doing it and now my iPad has a little internal flaw only I'm aware of.

    Travis Dixon - Antwort

    Correct me if I’m wrong but the LTE version apparently has 2 antennas on each side of the front-facing camera and it’s not shown on this post to avoid prying. I just scratched one of them following these instructions.

    Pacman - Antwort

  7. Befestige einen Saugheber auf der linken Seite in der Mitte des iPads. Drücke den Saugnapf flach auf den Touch Screen. Halte das iPad mit der einen Hand fest und hebe mit der anderen vorsichtig den Touch Screen vom Gehäuse.
    • Befestige einen Saugheber auf der linken Seite in der Mitte des iPads.

    • Drücke den Saugnapf flach auf den Touch Screen.

    • Halte das iPad mit der einen Hand fest und hebe mit der anderen vorsichtig den Touch Screen vom Gehäuse.

    • Wenn das Display deines iPads sehr zersplittert ist, kann es hilfreich sein, es mit durchsichtigem Klebeband abzukleben, damit der Saugheber hält. Sonst kannst du auch ein Stück starkes Paketklebeband so falten, dass es einen Griff bildet.

    In this picture above, the glass isn't cracked at all so it helps the suction cup to be effective as it is hermetic. With cracked display, it won't work.

    jfmartin67 - Antwort

    Suction cup would not work for me. No amount of heating with iOpener or hair dryer would allow even the slightest gap to form. I ended up looking at some YouTube videos and used a razor blade. I put the razor blade perpendicular to the top glass, right at the edge of the glass and pushed down until the blade went down 1/4". Then heated some more and pried up the glass enough to put in an opening pick. I spent a lot of time working with the suction cup. Glue was just too strong.

    kinchma - Antwort

    It's funny that iFixit changed the image they used. Even they themselves realized how stupid it was to try a suction cup on taped up surface. C'mon guys! You should at least make foot notes for your readers and let them know what to do if the glass is already shattered. It's a slow methodical process that involves working with a iOpener type tool. I personally have one that looks like a prison shank (lol)

    Scott S - Antwort

    Not sure what you are referring to there—I see no evidence in the document history of the photos having been changed. Suction cup + packing tape can work, but it depends how badly the glass is broken and the quality of the tape. Sometimes it takes a couple attempts. You can also skip the suction cup and try using tape alone to pull on the panel, if your tape is sticky enough. There are no guarantees though, which is why we have the disclaimer right in Step 4 that the procedure can be pretty fussy if you're working with a shattered panel. Depending on where it's broken and how badly, you're going to have to improvise.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Jeff, the change is evident from image 4, where all the surface is taped up. In this picture you show a clean not broken surface and yes, the suction cup works...

    Simone Gabbriellini -

    Ah, I see what you're saying! I can understand why you guys would assume that, but in reality the entire guide was originally photographed using an intact panel. We later added a step showing how to protect yourself if you have a shattered panel (with photos to go along with, obviously). I'm afraid it wouldn't be practical to re-shoot the entire guide every time we make a small change like that.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    The suction cup is useless if your glass is shattered. Use a new, sharp razor blade, and insert it vertically between the edge of the glass and the metal back of the iPad. Don’t worry about pressing too hard — there’s a lip that stops the blade from going in too far and damaging anything. You’ll probably have to do this several times, but eventually the blade will “bite” into the edge of the glass well enough for you to pry it up. Insert a pick underneath the razor, then remove the razor and continue as directed.

    Blair Miller - Antwort

    After having to read several comments on this screen removal and the clear packing tape, I too have to agree that the tape method does not work well at all if your screen is already shattered. I combined several methods, with lots of patience to remove the screen on my iPad Air 2. What I found it very helpful was the heat gun used for paint removal. The heat gun generates a lot of concentrated heat at lower air velocity, unlike generic hair dryer, so you must be very careful not to ruin the electronics, and risk burning your hands and anything around it. My heat gun that I purchased from Home Depot had a nozzle to direct and focus the heat on a small area. That was helpful in working small area at a time. This method work thoroughly well.

    Taiji Saotome - Antwort

    It would work if you leave iopener in microwave for 1 minute.

    Don’t trust the instruction from ifixit.

    you can put iopener in microwave for 1 minute without any harm.

    Note. you have to make sure that it is in cold position before you put it into microwave.

    phongsiri nirachornkul - Antwort

    Suction cup didn’t work for me either, went the razor blade route (using an exacto knife blade) with very minimal damage to the aluminum shell. Be warned, if your screen has cracked along the edge (as it almost 100% certainly has if you’re reading this guide), the screen will continue to shatter and splinter as you make your way around the edge. That’s when having the screen taped up well will be to your advantage. There’s also a good chance you’ll have to re-insert the razor blade on the other side of a fracture and start the lifting process again, but keep going, being sure to avoid the points called out in this guide and you should be fine.

    Also, do not apply the suction cup to an area of the screen with cracks and no tape. If you’re near the edge you run the risk of brutally shattering that area of the glass if the glass gives before the suction cup.

    Micah Sledge - Antwort

    In order to get this to work for me I had to heat the IOpener to over 104 C - I needed to get the screen over 40 C before the adhesive would loosen.

    Also I had to put the ipad on a towel - the granite countertop it was on was sucking the heat out too fast.

    Jack Williams - Antwort

    This step was brutal on my nerves - read about too many people ruining their iOpener and I don’t have a heat gun. I had to keep heating the iOpener incrementally hoping I wouldn’t pop it. … but if you’re patient, persistent, and cautious, you can definitely tell when you’re seeing separation. The iOpener ended up being WAY hotter than 30 seconds was getting me - borderline scorching my hands.

    William Thompson - Antwort

    Could not loosen the adhesive using the iOpener. Had to use hair dryer.

    Erwin yi - Antwort

    As the others noted, the suction cup is useless on a cracked screen, especially if you’ve applied tape (like the instructions say you should). The screen I was working on was busted up pretty bad, I ended up removing it and then going back to remove the edge glass and adhesive. When you have a really busted screen just take your time and use a heat gun or good hot hair dryer and it will eventually come off.

    I used an iSesame tool vs a razor to pry the edge (from a previous replacement project) but again, the iOpener and suction cup are useless.

    David Yutzy - Antwort

    Thank you for the comments above. I was using the iOpener unsuccessfully, then turned to the hair dryer and heated it up for over 3 minutes. This gave me the gap I needed to insert the opening pick and begin the process. So, with patience and a hair dryer, I was able to get the digitizer off.

    0812mgr - Antwort

  8. Platziere den Opening Pick in dem entstandenen Spalt. Schiebe den Pick nicht tiefer in das iPad als den lackierten Rand. Andernfalls kannst du das LCD beschädigen. Löse nun den Saugnapf vom Touch Screen.
    • Platziere den Opening Pick in dem entstandenen Spalt.

    • Schiebe den Pick nicht tiefer in das iPad als den lackierten Rand. Andernfalls kannst du das LCD beschädigen.

    • Löse nun den Saugnapf vom Touch Screen.

    I found it much easier to use a single edge razor blade instead of the pick. After getting that inserted, it was easy to slip the pick between the blade and the case. Disclaimer - Razor blades are very sharp and you could easily hurt yourself or your iPad if you use one.

    donprius - Antwort

    This is an amazing tip! After trying for 10 minutes to use the pick with no luck, I grabbed a small razor blade and that worked perfectly to get me started!! Thanks!!

    Ashley Garner - Antwort

    The suction cup also didn’t work to create a gap - it cracked the screen when i tried to lift (the screen was already cracked). This was after rotating between the iOpener and a microwavable hot pack for food. The iOpener was around 175 degrees, it brought the surface of the iPad to 130. I was finally able to lift the glass using a razor blade and then the picks like donprius. I continued to use the iOpener to loosen the glue around the rest of the iPad but I think a heat gun would have been more efficient.

    Marc Ducret - Antwort

    You have to heat the glue really much, or you will, as i did, crack the glass.

    Linus Grüne - Antwort

    Best bet is to mark the pick with a sharpie line on how far your maximum limit is so you don’t damage the LCD.

    Jon Snyder - Antwort

  9. Erhitze den iOpener erneut und lege ihn erneut auf die linke Seite.
    • Erhitze den iOpener erneut und lege ihn erneut auf die linke Seite.

    • Überhitze den iOpener nicht während der Reparatur, sondern warte mindestens 2 Minuten, bevor du ihn erneut erhitzt.

    This says "Always wait at least two minutes before reheating the iOpener", however the iOpener itself has a warning printed upon it that says wait at least 10 minutes. And that 10 minutes warning is also mentioned in Step 2 above.

    Scott - Antwort

    Sorry about that! We fixed the text on this step. The two-minute interval was for an older version of the iOpener—the text printed on your iOpener will have the correct interval, which is indeed ten minutes. It can burst if overheated or reheated too quickly.

    Jeff Suovanen -

  10. Platziere nun einen weiteren Pick in dem entstandenen Spalt und ziehe diesen  zur unteren Ecke. Dabei sollte sich der Kleber lösen. Platziere nun einen weiteren Pick in dem entstandenen Spalt und ziehe diesen  zur unteren Ecke. Dabei sollte sich der Kleber lösen. Platziere nun einen weiteren Pick in dem entstandenen Spalt und ziehe diesen  zur unteren Ecke. Dabei sollte sich der Kleber lösen.
    • Platziere nun einen weiteren Pick in dem entstandenen Spalt und ziehe diesen zur unteren Ecke. Dabei sollte sich der Kleber lösen.

    You guys really need to show how it's done when your iPad isn't perfect like the one pictured above.. C'mon..

    Scott S - Antwort

    This is for BATTERY REPLACEMENT not CRACKED SCREEN REPLACEMENT!!

    Corey Barcus -

    How do you slide the picks when the glass is broken? Even with the glass taped, it pulls away from the tape rather than the housing. I've just further shattered the glass with my attempts.

    chrisweiler - Antwort

  11. Führe den Pick an der Seite des Displays entlang, um den Kleber zu lösen. Wenn der Pick am Kleber festhängt oder stockt, dann "rolle" den Pick an der Seite entlang, um den Kleber weiter zu lösen. Wenn der Pick am Kleber festhängt oder stockt, dann "rolle" den Pick an der Seite entlang, um den Kleber weiter zu lösen.
    • Führe den Pick an der Seite des Displays entlang, um den Kleber zu lösen.

    • Wenn der Pick am Kleber festhängt oder stockt, dann "rolle" den Pick an der Seite entlang, um den Kleber weiter zu lösen.

    This gives a false illusion to the difficulty of these repairs when you guys make guides using perfect devices. What about devices with dinged corners? A reader is gonna slap on a new screen and shatter it the second they apply pressure thinking it will fit into a dented corner lol

    Scott S - Antwort

  12. Führe nun den ersten Pick hinauf bis zur oberen Ecke des iPads. Siehst du den Pick durch das Glas? Keine Panik – ziehe es einfach wieder etwas raus. Meistens wird dadurch nichts beschädigt. Versuche dies aber zu vermeiden, weil der Kleber sonst das LCD oder Glas berühren könnte und sehr schwer zu reinigen ist. Siehst du den Pick durch das Glas? Keine Panik – ziehe es einfach wieder etwas raus. Meistens wird dadurch nichts beschädigt. Versuche dies aber zu vermeiden, weil der Kleber sonst das LCD oder Glas berühren könnte und sehr schwer zu reinigen ist.
    • Führe nun den ersten Pick hinauf bis zur oberen Ecke des iPads.

    • Siehst du den Pick durch das Glas? Keine Panik – ziehe es einfach wieder etwas raus. Meistens wird dadurch nichts beschädigt. Versuche dies aber zu vermeiden, weil der Kleber sonst das LCD oder Glas berühren könnte und sehr schwer zu reinigen ist.

    I managed to get a couple of fingerprints on the LCD.

    What's the best way to clean 'em off?

    What's the safest way?

    Mike McIntosh - Antwort

    What I’ve read, and seems to work, is gentle circular pressure with a very clean, dry microfiber cloth. Lacking that, use a TINY drop of water ON THE CLOTH, not on the LCD. Small amounts of alcohol can be used, in my experience, but only if the above don’t work, and with better results if used in small amounts and applied to the cloth, not the LCD.

    Bonnie Baxter - Antwort

    Can confirm. Microfiber with a little isopropyl worked great to clean off any adhesive or fingerprints from mine. Thanks for the tip.

    Robert -

  13. Erhitze den iOpener erneut und platziere ihn auf dem oberen Rand des iPads über der Frontkamera.
    • Erhitze den iOpener erneut und platziere ihn auf dem oberen Rand des iPads über der Frontkamera.

    • ACHTUNG: Den iOpener während des Reparaturprozesses nicht überhitzen. Warte mindestens zwei Minuten, bevor du ihn erneut erhitzt.

    • Wenn du einen flexiblen iOpener besitzt, kannst du ihn so verbiegen, dass er gleichzeitig die obere linke Ecke und den oberen Rand erwärmt.

  14. Schiebe das Opening Pick um die obere linke Ecke herum, damit der Klebstoff gelöst wird. Schiebe das Opening Pick um die obere linke Ecke herum, damit der Klebstoff gelöst wird. Schiebe das Opening Pick um die obere linke Ecke herum, damit der Klebstoff gelöst wird.
    • Schiebe das Opening Pick um die obere linke Ecke herum, damit der Klebstoff gelöst wird.

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  16. Ziehe das Opening Pick entlang der oberen Kante bis kurz vor die Frontkamera und halte dann an. Das dritte Bild zeigt, wo die Frontkamera und ihr Gehäuse im iPad platziert sind. Versuche, nicht mit dem Opening Pick über die Frontkamera zu streifen, denn sonst könntest du Klebstoff auf die Linse schmieren oder sogar die Kamera beschädigen. Die folgenden Schritte beschreiben genau, wie du Komplikationen mit der Frontkamera am besten vermeiden kannst.
    • Ziehe das Opening Pick entlang der oberen Kante bis kurz vor die Frontkamera und halte dann an.

    • Das dritte Bild zeigt, wo die Frontkamera und ihr Gehäuse im iPad platziert sind.

    • Versuche, nicht mit dem Opening Pick über die Frontkamera zu streifen, denn sonst könntest du Klebstoff auf die Linse schmieren oder sogar die Kamera beschädigen. Die folgenden Schritte beschreiben genau, wie du Komplikationen mit der Frontkamera am besten vermeiden kannst.

  17. Ziehe das Opening Pick leicht heraus und schiebe die Spitze sehr vorsichtig am oberen Rand des iPads auf Höhe der Frontkamera entlang. Ziehe das Opening Pick leicht heraus und schiebe die Spitze sehr vorsichtig am oberen Rand des iPads auf Höhe der Frontkamera entlang. Ziehe das Opening Pick leicht heraus und schiebe die Spitze sehr vorsichtig am oberen Rand des iPads auf Höhe der Frontkamera entlang.
    • Ziehe das Opening Pick leicht heraus und schiebe die Spitze sehr vorsichtig am oberen Rand des iPads auf Höhe der Frontkamera entlang.

  18. Lass das Opening Pick gleich hinter der Frontkamera stecken. Nimm ein zweites Opening Pick und setze vor der Frontkamera erneut an. Nun schiebe das Opening Pick in die linke Ecke, um den Klebstoff an diesem Rand vollends zu lösen. Nimm ein zweites Opening Pick und setze vor der Frontkamera erneut an. Nun schiebe das Opening Pick in die linke Ecke, um den Klebstoff an diesem Rand vollends zu lösen.
    • Lass das Opening Pick gleich hinter der Frontkamera stecken.

    • Nimm ein zweites Opening Pick und setze vor der Frontkamera erneut an. Nun schiebe das Opening Pick in die linke Ecke, um den Klebstoff an diesem Rand vollends zu lösen.

  19. Nun kannst du das erste Opening Pick wieder tiefer hineinschieben und von der Kamera weg bis in die Ecke ziehen. Nun kannst du das erste Opening Pick wieder tiefer hineinschieben und von der Kamera weg bis in die Ecke ziehen. Nun kannst du das erste Opening Pick wieder tiefer hineinschieben und von der Kamera weg bis in die Ecke ziehen.
    • Nun kannst du das erste Opening Pick wieder tiefer hineinschieben und von der Kamera weg bis in die Ecke ziehen.

  20. Behalte die drei Opening Picks in den Seiten des iPads an denen der Kleber schon gelöst wurde, sodass dieser sich nicht erneut verklebt.
    • Behalte die drei Opening Picks in den Seiten des iPads an denen der Kleber schon gelöst wurde, sodass dieser sich nicht erneut verklebt.

    • Erhitze den iOpener und platziere ihn auf der letzten unbearbeiteten Seite.

  21. Schiebe den Opening Pick in die obere rechte Ecke des iPads, um den Kleber dort vorsichtig zu lösen. Lasse den Opening Pick an Ort und Stelle, um zu verhindern, dass der Kleber sich wieder versiegelt und nimm dir für den nächsten Schritt einen neuen Opening Pick.
    • Schiebe den Opening Pick in die obere rechte Ecke des iPads, um den Kleber dort vorsichtig zu lösen.

    • Lasse den Opening Pick an Ort und Stelle, um zu verhindern, dass der Kleber sich wieder versiegelt und nimm dir für den nächsten Schritt einen neuen Opening Pick.

  22. Führe einen neuen Opening Pick in das iPad ein und schiebe ihn in die Mitte der rechten Kante des iPads, um den Kleber der Kante entlang zu lösen. Die Display-Kabel befinden sich etwa auf halbem Weg von der Unterseite des iPads. Stoppe mit dem Opening Pick, wenn du dich ca. 11 cm von der Unterseite des iPads entfernt befindest. Die Display-Kabel befinden sich etwa auf halbem Weg von der Unterseite des iPads. Stoppe mit dem Opening Pick, wenn du dich ca. 11 cm von der Unterseite des iPads entfernt befindest.
    • Führe einen neuen Opening Pick in das iPad ein und schiebe ihn in die Mitte der rechten Kante des iPads, um den Kleber der Kante entlang zu lösen.

    • Die Display-Kabel befinden sich etwa auf halbem Weg von der Unterseite des iPads. Stoppe mit dem Opening Pick, wenn du dich ca. 11 cm von der Unterseite des iPads entfernt befindest.

    Why there’s such an obsession with not damaging the cables is beyond me. Be careful, so as not to damage what the cables are connected to. But the cables are part of the replacement digitizer, so if you nick or even slice through them (like I did with the one closest to the bottom) don’t worry about it.

    Blair Miller - Antwort

    Keep in mind that some people are here to open an intact display to replace internal components! In those cases, keeping the cables un-harmed is quite important ;)

    Sam Goldheart -

    My digitizer WAS ok and I was only replacing the battery I wasn't careful enough when coming around the side with the pics and got a hold of the cable just enough with the pic to pull it off the underside of the panel. The battery replacement went great other than now I have to replace the digitizer. :(

    BE CAREFUL WITH THIS STEP!!!

    Dylan Bouterse - Antwort

    And if you are replacing the digitizer, you have to reuse the fingerprint sensor home button. I sliced through mine and now I’ll not have fingerprint sensor. Each home button is matched to the main board and if switched out you will loose that sensor ability.

    David - Antwort

    Like others, I damaged my digitizer cable while doing a battery replacement. It would be a good idea to use some blue tape to mark the spots to avoid during the glue slicing procedure.

    donprius - Antwort

  23. Lasse die Opening Picks an Ort und Stelle und lege den erneut aufgewärmten iOpener auf die Seite des iPads mit dem Home Button.
    • Lasse die Opening Picks an Ort und Stelle und lege den erneut aufgewärmten iOpener auf die Seite des iPads mit dem Home Button.

  24. Schiebe den unteren linken Opening Pick in die untere linke Ecke, um den Kleber auf dieser Ecke zu trennen. Lasse den Opening Pick in der Ecke. Gehe damit kein Stück weiter und entferne nicht den Opening Pick aus dem iPad. Das dritte Bild zeigt die beiden Antennen und den Hohlraum des Home Buttons im unteren Bereich des iPads.
    • Schiebe den unteren linken Opening Pick in die untere linke Ecke, um den Kleber auf dieser Ecke zu trennen.

    • Lasse den Opening Pick in der Ecke. Gehe damit kein Stück weiter und entferne nicht den Opening Pick aus dem iPad.

    • Das dritte Bild zeigt die beiden Antennen und den Hohlraum des Home Buttons im unteren Bereich des iPads.

    • Die folgenden Schritte führen dich so, dass du Schäden an den Komponenten vermeiden wirst. Verwende Hitze und Hebelwirkung nur da, wo es von dir in der Anleitung verlangt wird.

  25. Lasse den Opening Pick aus dem letzten Schritt genau dort wo du aufgehört hast, um zu verhindern, dass der Kleber sich wieder versiegelt. Schneide mit einem neuen Opening Pick vorsichtig über die linke Antenne, stoppe kurz vor dem Home Button. Schneide mit dem Opening Pick nur von der äußeren Kante Richtung der Mitte des iPads. Bewege das Opening Pick nicht zurück in Richtung der äußeren Kante, da die Bewegung in diese Richtung die Antenne beschädigen kann.
    • Lasse den Opening Pick aus dem letzten Schritt genau dort wo du aufgehört hast, um zu verhindern, dass der Kleber sich wieder versiegelt.

    • Schneide mit einem neuen Opening Pick vorsichtig über die linke Antenne, stoppe kurz vor dem Home Button.

    • Schneide mit dem Opening Pick nur von der äußeren Kante Richtung der Mitte des iPads. Bewege das Opening Pick nicht zurück in Richtung der äußeren Kante, da die Bewegung in diese Richtung die Antenne beschädigen kann.

    • Wenn du den Opening Pick mehrmals über den unteren Bereich bewegen musst, entferne ihn und setze ihn an der äußeren Ecke wieder ein. Bewege dich dann wieder Richtung Mitte.

    • Lasse den Opening Pick an Ort und Stelle und springe zum nächsten Schritt.

  26. Nimm ein neues Plektrum und schiebe es an die Stelle des vorherigen Plektrums. Fahre am Home Button und der rechten Antenne nur mit der äussersten Spitze des Plektrums entlang, um den Kleber zu entfernen. Fahre am Home Button und der rechten Antenne nur mit der äussersten Spitze des Plektrums entlang, um den Kleber zu entfernen.
    • Nimm ein neues Plektrum und schiebe es an die Stelle des vorherigen Plektrums.

    • Fahre am Home Button und der rechten Antenne nur mit der äussersten Spitze des Plektrums entlang, um den Kleber zu entfernen.

  27. Wenn der Kleber gelöst ist, kannst du das Plektrum in der Nähe der rechten Ecke einsetzen. Schiebe das Plektrum nach links und halte kurz vor dem Home Button an. Führe wie bei der linken Antenne das Plektrum nur von der äußeren Kante in Richtung Mitte. Andersherum könnte dies die Antenne beschädigen. Führe wie bei der linken Antenne das Plektrum nur von der äußeren Kante in Richtung Mitte. Andersherum könnte dies die Antenne beschädigen.
    • Wenn der Kleber gelöst ist, kannst du das Plektrum in der Nähe der rechten Ecke einsetzen. Schiebe das Plektrum nach links und halte kurz vor dem Home Button an.

    • Führe wie bei der linken Antenne das Plektrum nur von der äußeren Kante in Richtung Mitte. Andersherum könnte dies die Antenne beschädigen.

    This step needs a BIG CAVEAT to not insert the pick far enough to damage the home button/touch ID cable, as it is DIRECTLY above where you’re directing people to insert the pick. I just ruined a ribbon cable by following this guide too closely.

    tabormeister - Antwort

  28. Erhitze den iOpener und lege ihn auf die Seite der Lautstärketasten des iPads.
    • Erhitze den iOpener und lege ihn auf die Seite der Lautstärketasten des iPads.

  29. Sei sehr vorsichtig bei diesem Schritt. Nimm dir Zeit und sei dir sicher, dass der Kleber erwärmt und lose ist. Überprüfe außerdem, ob du den kompletten Kleber mit einem Plektrum gelockert hast. Sollte dies nicht der Fall sein, erwärme ggf. den iOpener wieder und führe die letzten Schritte noch einmal sorgfältig durch. Auf der den Lautstärketasten gegenüberliegenden Seite solltest du ein Plektrum in jede Ecke eingesteckt haben. Drehe die Plektren um die Scheibe leicht an zu heben - so löst du auch den letzten Kleber entlang der Kante mit dem Displaykabel.
    • Sei sehr vorsichtig bei diesem Schritt. Nimm dir Zeit und sei dir sicher, dass der Kleber erwärmt und lose ist. Überprüfe außerdem, ob du den kompletten Kleber mit einem Plektrum gelockert hast. Sollte dies nicht der Fall sein, erwärme ggf. den iOpener wieder und führe die letzten Schritte noch einmal sorgfältig durch.

    • Auf der den Lautstärketasten gegenüberliegenden Seite solltest du ein Plektrum in jede Ecke eingesteckt haben. Drehe die Plektren um die Scheibe leicht an zu heben - so löst du auch den letzten Kleber entlang der Kante mit dem Displaykabel.

    • Solltest du mehr Widerstand als gewöhnlich bemerken, lasse die Plektren wo sie sind. Erhitze den iOpener und lege ihn auf die Problemstellen auf, um den wiederspenstigen Kleber wieder zu erweichen.

    You will end up having to scrape the outter ledge to remove the old screen. I bled and got glass shards everywhere. Good luck!

    Travis Dixon - Antwort

  30. Hebe langsam und vorsichtig das Display an, um den Kleber entlang der Kante mit dem Displaykabel zu lösen. Hebe langsam und vorsichtig das Display an, um den Kleber entlang der Kante mit dem Displaykabel zu lösen.
    • Hebe langsam und vorsichtig das Display an, um den Kleber entlang der Kante mit dem Displaykabel zu lösen.

  31. Während du das Front Panel Glas hebst, nutze ein Plektrum,  um auch den letzten Kleber zu lösen. Sei sehr vorsichtig um die Displaykabel nicht zu beschädigen. Sei sehr vorsichtig um die Displaykabel nicht zu beschädigen.
    • Während du das Front Panel Glas hebst, nutze ein Plektrum, um auch den letzten Kleber zu lösen.

    • Sei sehr vorsichtig um die Displaykabel nicht zu beschädigen.

    Detailed pictures that better indicate the difference between the remaining adhesive and the two mylar cables (the very cables you are trying to avoid damaging!) would be much appreciated. On my unit the two were VERY hard to distinguish.

    dlcatftwin - Antwort

    This step does not need to be performed here. I cut this adhesive once I had removed the lcd and display cables. This makes it much easier to avoid damaging anything. Just prop the glass up on something while you perform steps 31 - 42, then cut remaining adhesive and remove.

    Robert - Antwort

  32. Wenn erst einmal jeglicher Kleber entfernt bzw. gelöst wurde, kannst du das Front Panel Glas wie eine Buchseite öffnen und auf die Arbeitsfläche ablegen. Reinige beim Wiederzusammenbau die Klebstoffreste auf dem Gehäuse sowie auf dem Front Panel Glas (sofern du es wieder verwendest) mit Isopropylalkohol und ersetze den Kleber durch vorgestanzte Klebestreifen. Benutze dazu unsere Anleitung zum Einsetzen von Display-Klebestreifen.
    • Wenn erst einmal jeglicher Kleber entfernt bzw. gelöst wurde, kannst du das Front Panel Glas wie eine Buchseite öffnen und auf die Arbeitsfläche ablegen.

    • Reinige beim Wiederzusammenbau die Klebstoffreste auf dem Gehäuse sowie auf dem Front Panel Glas (sofern du es wieder verwendest) mit Isopropylalkohol und ersetze den Kleber durch vorgestanzte Klebestreifen. Benutze dazu unsere Anleitung zum Einsetzen von Display-Klebestreifen.

    • Ein Flexkabel kann leicht zwischen dem Frontglas und dem iPad-Rahmen während der Wiedermontage eingeklemmte werden. Achte auf die Flexkabel und stelle sicher, dass sie vorsichtig unter dem Rahmen gefaltet und gesteckt sind. Wird ein Flexkabel vollständig flach gedrückt, kann es so beschädigt werden, dass eine Reparatur nicht mehr möglich ist.

    my replacement digitizer has rigid flex with adhesive tape where the connectors extend. how does this “fold” back inside the frame?

    David - Antwort

    Same here. I removed the adhesive tape, but now what?

    Dvi -

    It looks like I have the same or similar question: the “hinge” part of the digitizer cables (the flap portion) looks like it is supposed to tuck into the crevice between the LCD panel and the side of the aluminum body - my replacement (from iFixit) has sticky contact on the upper side of this flap, making me think that its supposed to adhere to the side of the LCD panel, but the instructions do not make this clear - is my assumption correct?

    dlcatftwin - Antwort

    Or, does the flap adhere to the underside of the front panel’s right edge?

    dlcatftwin - Antwort

    I attempted to put this protrusion underneath the LCD, and it kept coming up above the LCD. As there were no instructions, I put it as best as I could underneath the LCD as I cannot imagine that it folds up against itself?

    Dvi - Antwort

    I tried to put it ‘inside’ the case but was not able to - at the end, I just glued it against the front glass.

    I must have done something wrong with the new home-button assembly as the fingerprint sensor does not work anymore - However, I am not going to go through that repair again so passcode it is.

    Michael Berneis - Antwort

  33. Entferne jegliches Klebeband, welches noch die Schrauben des LCD verdeckt. Entferne jegliches Klebeband, welches noch die Schrauben des LCD verdeckt. Entferne jegliches Klebeband, welches noch die Schrauben des LCD verdeckt.
    • Entferne jegliches Klebeband, welches noch die Schrauben des LCD verdeckt.

  34. Entferne die vier Kreuzschlitzschrauben, welche das LCD befestigen:
    • Entferne die vier Kreuzschlitzschrauben, welche das LCD befestigen:

    • Drei 4,0 mm Schrauben

    • Eine 4,8 mm Schraube

  35. Versuche noch nicht, das LCD ganz zu entfernen. Es ist immer noch mit dem iPad über verschiedene Kabel am Ende nahe des Home Buttons verbunden. Hebe es nur am Ende nahe der Frontkamera an. Hebe das LCD mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus seiner Vertiefung gerade soweit hoch , dass du es mit den Fingern fassen kannst. Klappe das LCD wie eine Buchseite um, hebe es dabei an der Seite nahe der Frontkamera an und drehe es um die Kante nahe des Home Buttons.
    • Versuche noch nicht, das LCD ganz zu entfernen. Es ist immer noch mit dem iPad über verschiedene Kabel am Ende nahe des Home Buttons verbunden. Hebe es nur am Ende nahe der Frontkamera an.

    • Hebe das LCD mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers aus seiner Vertiefung gerade soweit hoch , dass du es mit den Fingern fassen kannst.

    • Klappe das LCD wie eine Buchseite um, hebe es dabei an der Seite nahe der Frontkamera an und drehe es um die Kante nahe des Home Buttons.

    • Sei vorsichtig und achte auf die LCD Kabel, während du das Display umklappst.

    • Lege das LCD mit der Scheibe nach unten, so dass du Zugang zu den Displaykabeln erhältst.

    • Lege das LCD auf eine weiche, saubere und fusselfreie Oberfläche.

    Pictures that better indicate the difference between the remaining adhesive and the two mylar cables (the very cables you are trying to avoid damaging!) would be much appreciated. On my unit the two were very hard to distinguish

    dlcatftwin - Antwort

  36. Entferne die einzelne 2,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, welche den Akkustecker am Logic Board befestigt. Du kannst die Gefahr eines Kurzschlusses verringern, indem du ein Isolierpick für Akkus einsetzt, um den Akku abzutrennen. Schiebe das Isolierpick unter den Akkuanschluss auf dem Logic Board und lasse es an Ort und Stelle, während du reparierst.
    • Entferne die einzelne 2,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, welche den Akkustecker am Logic Board befestigt.

    • Du kannst die Gefahr eines Kurzschlusses verringern, indem du ein Isolierpick für Akkus einsetzt, um den Akku abzutrennen.

    • Schiebe das Isolierpick unter den Akkuanschluss auf dem Logic Board und lasse es an Ort und Stelle, während du reparierst.

    The could recommend me since I did not put the wedge first in the connection of the battery and it heated the logic card a couple of minutes, q´l recommend to solve it since it does not turn on

    carlos renao - Antwort

    The battery isolation pick didn’t come with my kit. I made my own using one of the regular picks and a pair of scissors.

    Blair Miller - Antwort

    Would it not be important to note that you are not really “disconnecting” the conduit of the battery from the logic board, but rather isolating the connection?

    dlcatftwin - Antwort

    @dlcatftwin I’m not sure I understand the distinction you’re making. You are fully disconnecting the battery, by opening the circuit and wedging a big insulator in there to keep it from closing again accidentally.

    Jeff Suovanen - Antwort

    Hello Jeff,

    Thank you for responding. one may regard “disconnecting” as actually unplugging or unsocketing a cable connection as actually disconnecting, like in step 37. I could picture a person tugging on the pick thinking that the battery connector actually had to be lifted away from the board.

    Probably over-thinking it! ;-)

    Regards,

    DLC

    dlcatftwin -

    @dlcatftwin 100% on point. That’s exactly why I’m reading this comment right now. I’ve never heard of a “Battery Isolation Pick” and I was trying to get the connector loose, before realizing it wasn’t coming easy and therefore reading the comments for more info.

    Ergo, there is some confusion here that should be noted in the primary instructions.

    Kyle Sankowicz -

  37. Entferne die drei 1,4 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, welche die Halterung des Displaykabels befestigen.
    • Entferne die drei 1,4 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, welche die Halterung des Displaykabels befestigen.

    The supplied screw driver bit really struggled with these screws.

    Thomas Kaye - Antwort

  38. Hebele die Halterung des Displaykabels vorsichtig mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers vom Logic Board gerade hoch. Der Stecker des Displaykabels ist an der Unterseite der Halterung angebracht. Schiebe deshalb den Spudger nicht zu weit unter die Halterung, du könntest sonst den Stecker beschädigen.
    • Hebele die Halterung des Displaykabels vorsichtig mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers vom Logic Board gerade hoch.

    • Der Stecker des Displaykabels ist an der Unterseite der Halterung angebracht. Schiebe deshalb den Spudger nicht zu weit unter die Halterung, du könntest sonst den Stecker beschädigen.

  39. Entferne das LCD.
    • Entferne das LCD.

  40. Entferne alle Klebebänder, die den Flachbandkabelanschluss des Home Buttons abdecken.
    • Entferne alle Klebebänder, die den Flachbandkabelanschluss des Home Buttons abdecken.

  41. Verwende das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um die Lasche am ZIF-Anschluss des Home-Tastenbandkabels nach oben zu klappen . Ziehe das Home-Button-Flachbandkabel vorsichtig aus dem ZIF-Stecker heraus. Ziehe das Home-Button-Flachbandkabel vorsichtig aus dem ZIF-Stecker heraus.
    • Verwende das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um die Lasche am ZIF-Anschluss des Home-Tastenbandkabels nach oben zu klappen .

    • Ziehe das Home-Button-Flachbandkabel vorsichtig aus dem ZIF-Stecker heraus.

  42. Verwende das flache Ende eines Spudgers oder eines Fingernagels, um die beiden Digitizerkabelstecker gerade aus ihren Sockeln zu lösen. Um dein iPad nicht zu beschädigen, heble nur an den Anschlüsse selbst und nicht an den Sockeln auf der Hauptplatine . Um dein iPad nicht zu beschädigen, heble nur an den Anschlüsse selbst und nicht an den Sockeln auf der Hauptplatine .
    • Verwende das flache Ende eines Spudgers oder eines Fingernagels, um die beiden Digitizerkabelstecker gerade aus ihren Sockeln zu lösen.

    • Um dein iPad nicht zu beschädigen, heble nur an den Anschlüsse selbst und nicht an den Sockeln auf der Hauptplatine .

    When reversing with the new screen , this was the hardest part for me.

    The cables needs to fit under the LCD screen, and they kept going out of place when I tried to close the screen in the end.

    That meant that I had to remove the LCD again with one hand while holding the digitizer/glass with the other - all while I had already exposed the adhesives.

    OleTheill - Antwort

    for me the cables of the new screen were longer that the old one. So even if i put everithing under the lcd, the digitizer didnt close properly. After everything was put back togheter, this side of the digitizer keep popping out.

    Félix Naud - Antwort

    I do have the same problem.

    Anne -

    In step 41 - what is the name of the connector in the first picture which he is trying to open

    glen d'souza - Antwort

    • Entferne die Front Panel Einheit.

    • Wenn das Homebutton-Flachbandkabel am hinteren Gehäuse des iPads haftet, versuche es nicht mit Gewalt. Ziehe es vorsichtig mit einer Pinzette vom Gehäuse ab und entferne dann die Front Panel Einheit vollständig.

    • Wenn nach dem Zusammenbau Probleme mit dem Touchscreen durch Phantomeingaben auftreten, kann dies durch eine Schicht sehr dünnes Isolierband, wie etwa Kapton(Polyimid)band auf den markierten Bereichen gelöst werden. Bei Panelen von iFixit ist die Isolierschicht schon aufgebracht, weiteres Klebeband ist nicht nötig.

    • Ohne die richtige Isolierung können diese Bereiche des Touchscreens einen Masseschluss zu anderen Bauteilen haben, dadurch entstehen diese Fehlfunktionen.

    • Diese Isolierung ist mit bloßem Auge nicht zu erkennen, sie unterscheidet sich auch von der Staubsperre aus Schaumstoff, die in vielen iPads zu finden ist.

    After removing the glass, I'd suggest scraping off any remaining black adhesive off of the iPad's frame. Get every speck. This may be time consuming if you have lost glass integrity and have sticky, splintered shards around the edge of the frame, but you need the frame completely clean of adhesive before you put the new front panel down or else it won't lay correctly in the frame.

    johnjustinirvine - Antwort

    This was not as hard as I expected it. I think I was lucky since the adhesive wasn’t properly working anymore, and my display wasn’t too shattered. Took me a about 40 minutes to remove the display. Unfortunately I noticed that my battery had expanded so ordered a new one, waiting for it to arrive before I put it all back together.

    Sebastian Graus - Antwort

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Jeff Suovanen

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Definitely not for the weak of heart, especially if your screen lost all its integrity when it shattered. You'll be scraping glass splinters off the frame for an hour. Tip: Make sure to scrape off all the black adhesive from the frame of the iPad (and I mean every speck) before putting the new screen down. I apparently missed a spot, and I can't get the screen to seat perfectly within the frame (but close enough; I'm not going back in there). Also, I didn't have much luck with the microwavable tube for softening the adhesive, but I was fortunate to have a heat gun that helped quite a bit.

johnjustinirvine - Antwort

I love the ifixit guides and this one is up to their consistently high standards, have to concur with the previous comment though, if your customer brings you a completely trashed digitizer a good number of the steps become obsolete and its down to brute force to remove the adhesive even if you've taped the screen, picks become redundant. One piece of advice that could be incorporated is if the digitizer is beyond repair, just cut the ribbon and be done with it, opening a trashed screen 'like a book' is not necessary, otherwise spot on guys and thanks for making my day easier!

brendon - Antwort

I agree with the previous two comments—this guide (or a separate one) should be changed to show to replace a cracked/shattered digitizer. I quickly learned that using the picks was a lost cause and following the guide was near pointless until I got to removing the display.

Pro-tip: don't even bother with the heat gun if the digitizer is shattered. Take the iPad outside, put on a pair of goggles, and just wedge a spudger/tweezers between the adhesive and the glass. Don't worry about damaging the home button or cables, your replacement digitizer probably has them pre-installed...just worry about the camera and not nicking the display. It's going to make a huge mess, but that's why you're outside. Heat it if you want, but I didn't find it necessary.

Jack Burton - Antwort

Before you proceed with this — especially if your digitizer is shattered — read through the comments under each step for some helpful hints. Also, one thing that isn't mentioned: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO CLEAN THE INSIDE OF THE DIGITIZER AFTER YOU REMOVE THE PROTECTIVE FILM. From what I can tell, only the outside of the digitizer is made of gorilla glass, and the inside will lightly scratch no matter how soft and clean your cleaning cloth is.

Blair Miller - Antwort

I found the guide easy to follow, I completed the repair in half an hour. I found the repair easy to complete BUT i recommend that you use a heat gun over the iOpener tool, as the heat gun is more affective at softening the adhesive making it easier to pull out the little shards of glass. I recommend you update your guide to show a realistic repair with an iPad with a horribly cracked screen.

jguth8 - Antwort

You're right and a heat gun is more effective, but it's also very easy to overcook and destroy the display (along with other internal components), leaving you worse off than when you started. Feel free to use it if you know what you are doing! For first-timers, the iOpener is a lot more forgiving. Congrats on a successful repair!

Jeff Suovanen -

The I opener was of no use but I have a small dehumidifier oven, put the iPad in to soften the adhesive at 140 for 45mins then proceeded if it takes a while to get all the way around pop it back in the oven. Great guide. Thanks

Deborah - Antwort

If you have a shattered screen, 2 words - WEAR GLOVES. And I mean decent gloves. I bought a pair that have nicely padded fingers to keep shards from tearing up my hands.

Also, the way I found to clean the LCD prior to reassembly, I used compressed air to clean off the big chunks. VERY CAREFULLY using light adhesive tape to pick up any left over small glass shards. Then I used distilled water and a microfiber cloth to clean the LCD. Except a scratch that occurred during the smashing of the digitizer, it cleaned up very nicely. Did 3 passes, prior to gluing the digitizer back.

ALSO, I found the magnets inside were coming loose. Glass shards also in the adhesive behind them. Clean them up, and I used the handle part of a cut off q-tip to apply some Gorilla super glue to permanently affix to where it belongs.

Karl Grindley - Antwort

Could you coat the screen with liquid bandage before removing the glass, to keep the shards together more. Or is that a poor idea and why?

Cherith - Antwort

Great guide! Thanks for putting it together. The key to success is take your time! Also try not to smudge the LCD as it is not easy to clean.

timberwilde - Antwort

I did the shattered screen version of this repair . As others have said don’t bother with suction cups and the picks as the screen does not have enough intergrity to lift and will just bow rather than pull up from the edge . I used the angled tweezers and worked my way around the edge picking off shattered glass . If you push way from the screen towards the edge you don’t risk slipping and scratching the lcd .

Once I had the screen off obsessively scraping off all the adhesive and cleaning with isopropyl is key to a neat rebuild along with the usual edge straightening if bent in a drop.

John bayley - Antwort

Can anyone recommend how to prevent lifting of the new digitiser where the cable are? I have tried everything that I can think of and still the new screen lifts

Dominic Haywood - Antwort

You need to push the folded flex gently in between the lcd and the iPad frame with a plastic tool or tweezer handle. Then peel the sticker which sits perfectly on the digitizer without bulging or showing inside the lcd area. Good luck.

razrunlocker -

It’s an okay guide cu the cord shattered glass doesn’t fold like a book. BPT pick out shards from the adhesive

Wendell Smith - Antwort

Help: can’t reconnect Home button! Everything went well except the little plug for the Home button doesn’t clip or stick. I’m desperate and !#^&@@ that I might have to buy a new iPad just because of that little connector…

olivier - Antwort

Wow well my daughter in law found it: the little strip goes underneath the metal connector. Phew!

olivier -

Can anyone post a picture of the digitzer cable being tucked appropriately so the screen will sit down correctly?

also having issue now where ipad does not charge, or charges slowly. Disconnected power during install. Any thoughts?

Michael Branton - Antwort

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