Einleitung
Wenn der Akku in deinem iPad mini 4 Wi-Fi alt geworden ist, hilft dir diese Anleitung beim Austausch.
Wenn der Akku aufgebläht ist, dann treffe geeignete Vorsichtsmaßnahmen.
Was du brauchst
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Erhitze den iOpener für dreißig Sekunden.
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Im Verlauf der Reparatur kühlt sich der iOpener wieder ab. Erhitze ihn dann noch einmal für dreißig Sekunden.
DO NOT USE IN NON ROTATING MICROWAVE! It will pop a hole. I had it in for 45 seconds the first time. It wasn't very hot inside and I saw it started to leak on the paper towel I put under it. Just a fair bit of advice. I think I will just stick with the heat gun. Loud but useful.
I heated mine up for 30 seconds, tested, then again for 30 seconds. It felt adequately hot. Leaving it on the left side, per the instruction, for a minute did not loosen the adhesive. I ended up pulling the suction cup hard enough to shadder the old screen. Moral of the story, I don't think it gets hot enough safely to have an affect.
There is a clear problem here with the heating part using the iopener things....no details are given. Whoever is testing them needs to make it clear - What temperature does it need to be? And for which phone models, because they differ in what's needed. It's only £10-15 for a laser guided temp sensor unit, and the designers/repairers should have one of those already for doing these kinds of repairs. Explaining half a repair, is worse than not explaining at all :-(
All phones/devices differ it’s unrealistic and unsafe to put a exact time/temperature needed to soften the adhesive. It’s really quite simple you warm the device evenly and in a controlled manner just enough to enable pry tools and picks to begin separating. Best tool in my opinion but again this is because I have experience is a hot plate and heat gun both of which are used at nearly the lowest settings and I can handle flat palming the plate for almost 10 seconds I leave the device to conduct heat until approx it’s about 110 at most 120 ish this will be plenty to soften all the adhesive if any problem areas I use heat gun while prying. Again you need go slowly and learn with a throw away phone
If I may suggest include your microwave wattage so people can get an idea on time for there own
I agree with this.
I ended up using a hair dryer. That iOpener thing took forever.
30 seconds sure isn’t cutting it… 45 didn’t get the screen of my iPad air 2 to budge either… even after resting on the ipad for 4 minutes.
60 seconds in the microwave, the iOpener burst.
I’ll get a new one and try once more with heating it 45 seconds and repeat that for 30 minutes like others have said here. If that doesn’t work it’ll have to be the heat gun.
K
I can’t recommend the microwave. If the the iOpener becomes too hot, it bursts. Better put the opener in cooking water. Dry it and use it. Instead of an iOpener you can use hot/cool packs as well.
Great idea with using the heat packs. I will try that next time. Thank you
Collins -
Trust the directions! I forgot and left it in the Microwave too long and after 1 minute I had Mt Vesuvius - the iOpener burst and spewed the goodies out. The problem is, the Digitizer can be damaged by a hot air gun, so I had to tough out and remove the glue the hard way. I made it … with lots of patience! Tough lesson.
I also used a hairdryer. I used it on the low setting and I cut a piece of carboard to protect the rest of the screen. The iFixit tool and method is vert tedious and very time consuming in comparison. With the hairdryer method you can literally have the display apart in a few minutes. Using your other hand nearby the area you are heating it should be very hot but not enough to burn your hand. You only have to heat metal part of case near glass edge. If you have a cellular model then you need to be very careful because the black antenna area is plastic. So less heat and work your way up in adding heat just enough to separate around the area but not so much you melt the plastic!
iOpener was the worst part of the kit. Followed directions for :30 in microwave and took 4 trips to the microwave to loosen adhesive on left side of home button. I thought I was figuring it out and it was working well… even set a timer to wait 10 minutes between heating it up. Was on the right side and was on my 12th heat up when it exploded in the microwave. My only tip is that if you set it clear side up, as soon as you see any bubbles or boiling in the liquid, STOP! If you put a pot holder over the iOpener and press slightly to make good surface contact, that seemed to help. I finished heating with a “Corn Sack” that held heat better than the provided iOpener.
Mon iopener n'a pas tenu une réparation. Je ne vous conseille pas ce produit
Bonjour,
Nous sommes désolés que votre réparation ne se soit pas déroulée comme prévu. Il se peut que le produit était défectueux. Veuillez contacter notre service client support@ifixit.com (boutique américaine) ou eustore@ifixit.com (boutique européenne) en décrivant ce qui s’est passé.
Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.
Thank you for posting some actual temperatures. I have a heat gun with a very fine self-temperature regulation setting capability.
I will set it for 150-180 F, and use that to soften the adhesive.
Get a heat gun.
I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. A second heating about 15 minutes later in the micro and it came out at 190 degrees F. Plenty hot enough to soften the adhesive for removing the back on my S8. Based on the comments above I think people just need to use more patience.
I used various time settings. It got very hot. It would soften the glue but not a whole lot. If my screen had been intact and I was replacing something that was not a digitizer, it may have worked. A broken screen makes the process significantly more difficult. I ended up breaking the home button cable. Good bye TouchID…
It appeared 30 seconds were not enough, so I heated it more, by 5 seconds at a time until I got the right temperature about 70 degrees Celsius (measured with infrared pistol) to get the screen heated up to 60 C, the best for softening the glue. But the heat was quickly dissipating by the big aluminum back cover, so the best I got in 2 minutes of applying iOpener was around 45 C, which made the procedure difficult and having risk of breaking the screen. So I eventually abandoned iOpener and user a hot air gun with precise temperature setup. I set it to 90 C, which allowed me to open my iPad quickly and safely.
I, too, ended up using a hot air gun. I’ve done earlier versions of iPad before but the adhesive used on this IPad 5 A1822 was particularly difficult to remove.
Also, while the suction cup worked great when the glass is in tact, any cracks in the glass make the suction cup useless.
You need to remember here are different sizes of microwaves. I had the same issue.
Heating on a smaller unit I used 45-60 seconds. That worked but was time comsuming
Yeah, the iOpener didn't work for me either.... ended up using a hair dryer and that worked. The iOpener was too warm to soften the glue in my case.
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Halte den iOpener an einem der flachen Enden und vermeide die heiße Mitte, während du ihn aus der Mikrowelle nimmst.
I did this repair. I used a hair dryer, I think it works better: gets very hot fast.
I did too, you get far more control and no expense on fancy equipment.
Readers looking for temperature advice might check the comments of the previous instruction, as there are more there. I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method. I don’t know how much microwaves vary in heating consistency with these pads, but knowing how inconsistent the temperature of a bowl of plain rice gets in my microwave, I wasn’t interested in even trying to use it for this.
I vote for the hair dryer. The other methods work too but if you aren’t having any luck, switch to the hair dryer. While holding the iPad in my hand, I found that I am aiming the dryer at my finger at the same time and it gauges how hot it is. I stop when my finger can’t take it - maybe five seconds up close. Repeat as needed like I did.
If the maximum temperature for this iOpener is lower than the gadget glue minimum temperature, this device does not make sense.
I think the maximum temperature for this iOpener is below 100⁰C and most gadget glue minimum temperature is higher than 100⁰C. So the iOpener is useless for many opening steps in repair guides. But who knows because temperature range is not specified for this iOpener. -
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Fülle einen Topf oder eine tiefe Pfanne mit ausreichend Wasser, um den iOpener komplett damit bedecken zu können.
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Erhitze das Wasser (ohne den iOpener) bis es kocht. Schalte die Wärmezufuhr (Platte) aus.
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Lege den iOpener für etwa 2-3 Minuten in das heiße Wasser. Stelle sicher, dass der iOpener komplett mit Wasser bedeckt ist.
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Nimm den iOpener mit einer Küchenzange aus dem Wasser heraus.
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Trockne den iOpener gründlich mit einem Küchen- oder Handtuch ab.
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Der iOpener kann jetzt verwendet werden. Solltest du den iOpener erneut erwärmen müssen, erhitze das Wasser nochmal bis zum Siedepunkt, schalte die Wärmezufuhr aus, und lege den iOpener wieder für 2-3 Minuten vollständig in das Wasser.
What do I do if I don’t have a iopener?
Use a hair dryer
2 or 3 cups Rice in a sock, heat for about 2 minutes. But, I recommend the iopener.
When boiling in water you can put the iopener in a ziplock to keep it dry.
Even if you don't put in a ziplock bag, I found that the surface is mostly hydrophobic so drying it is very easy. I also didn't have tongs, but the bag is denser than water, so it sank and I attached clothes pins to the ends and was able to remove it with those.
2-3 minutes in near boiling water, then 2-3 minutes on my s10+ and it was super easy to cut the glue off.
I have a question, if I have a pan, and I have water, and a mean to boil the water, won't it be easier and cheaper to just use that.
Have you tried it? Water limits your temperature to 100℃, whereas 'pan on the stove' can easily get up to twice that. If your pan is even slightly warped, you'll have a few hot spots of direct conduction with convection everywhere else, heating things unevenly. Assuming you get the device up to temperature, how will you get it out without scratching it or burning yourself? After you're finished, do you really want to prepare food in the pan you warmed up adhesives and trace manufacturing substances in?
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Boiling something form fitting to heat your device with is a lot more foolproof, and not being foolish is easier and cheaper. Direct pan heating can work, but you are leaving yourself open to a lot more problems than just taking the safe route.
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Platziere den erhitzten iOpener auf der linken langen Kante und lasse ihn etwa 2 Minuten in dieser Position.
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Platziere mittig einen Saugheber auf der angewärmten Seite.
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Achte darauf, dass der Saugheber komplett auf dem Glas aufliegt.
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Halte das iPad mit einer Hand nach unten und ziehe den Saugheber mit gleichmäßiger Kraft nach oben, um einen Spalt zu erzeugen.
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Während du das Display mit dem Saugheber anhebst, führe ein Plektrum in die Lücke zwischen dem Glas und dem iPad Gehäuse ein.
“Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display. Inserting the pick too far may damage the LCD.”
Unfortunately, you only know you have inserted it too far when you have, and you start seeing little bubble veins form between the glass screen and the LCD.
The adhesive can be very stiff/hard, and if pushing through it can result in the pick plunging into the LCD when the adhesive finally gives way.
Take your time, use alot of heat, and if you need to try and push the pick in, try and do so in a slicing motion along the edge, use the wide edge, or hold the pick so that your finger will hit the edge of the screen before the pick tip will pass the bezel.
Adhesive strips are only 1mm wide on sides. Up to 5mm wide top and bottom. I used the Isclack. Screen seemed ok bending without breaking. Worth looking for a photo of the replacement adhesive strips so you know what you have to separate. Be extra careful at the lower right corner where the cables are.
This is a failure of a guide as it doesn’t tell you to insert at a downward angle so you don’t potrude into the LCD… Now I have to spend more money to replace the screen as I pushed adhesive between the LCD and the screen even though I went no farther than a millimeter short of the screen...
can you open the right side if the left is too cracked to use a suction cup on?
This guide needs amending urgently.
You MUST NOT put the pick or whatever you are using more than 2mm under the sides of the screen, or you will cut through the adhesive tape securing the backlight assembly to the LCD glass.
This will push adhesive into the viewable area of the LCD and cause the backlight assembly to no longer be secured against the LCD fully.
I now need a new screen.
This line below from the guide is absolutely INCORRECT and will ruin your expensive display:
”Don't insert the opening pick any deeper than the black bezel on the side of the display.”
The black bezel is 5mm to 6mm wide; you MUST NOT insert anything to that depth or you will destroy your display. 2mm maximum!
thanks. will take this into account for my repair
Adab Abu -
I too damaged my display because of this absolute nonsense (The German version, which I used, still had this INCORRECT portion in it). I can't believe how long it took iFixit to update this, even though people have been reporting this for years on end. Sadly iFixit still haven't updated a variety of other things that are still at the very least high risk instructions. I just messaged them the other day, but they don't seem to care about or understand the remaining issues that this guide has. At least they updated one of the most severe things, but they just plainly told me 'I'm wrong' about the rest. I liked iFixit it so far, and I've worked on a variety of (difficult) repairs - but this experience was a very huge let down.
A few thoughts after opening a number of Mini 4’s.
1) if the display is warm enough you can squeeze the digitizer and LCD back together after a minor incursion with the opening pick and it will reseal.
2) I’ve started going in at the top just to the right of the camera (I use an iFlex to get in then switch to a pick). Then I run down either side with my fingers choked up on the pick so there only a mm or 2 sticking out. Usually after running down one side, I can get the display open enough to get the pick in behind the LCD when I do the other side
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Erhitze den iOpener erneut, platziere ihn an der gleichen Stelle und lasse ihn ein paar Minuten dort liegen.
If your iPad is cold, consider leaving the iOpener on for longer than 5 minutes. The aluminum housing is a very large thermally dissipating mass and will quickly cool off the glass and make you have to start over and wait the 10 minutes to reheat. There’s a very slim window in which you’re able to insert the pick into the glass adhesive before it solidifies once again. I’ve been fighting with it for like 20 minutes following these instructions and it’s not working. You really need to leave it for longer than just 5 minutes to get the back housing hot too.
Heat is essential. I used a 3d printer’s heated set at 65 degrees. Chris Storer’s stip above saved me as you really need to let it sit for quite a while to soften the adhesive. Since I was doing a battery change, I heated both sides as the aluminum back is a huge heatsink that really sucks up the heat. Don’t try forcing it; if the suction cup isn’t pulling a gap in the screen, leave it on the heater for additional time.
Love the 3d printer idea, I hadn’t thought of that! I have used a heat gun as well but you have to be very careful to not use too much heat. Also watch for inserting the pick too far, it is really easy to delaminate glass from the display!
russ -
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Führe ein zweites Plektrum neben dem ersten ein und ziehe es vorsichtig nach unten, um die Klebeverbindung des Displays zu lösen.
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Schiebe das Plektrum weiter an der Seite des Displays herunter, um den Kleber zu lösen.
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Falls das Plektrum im Kleber stecken bleiben sollte, dann "rolle" es die Seite des iPads entlang, um weiterhin den Kleber zu lösen.
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Nimm das erste Plektrum, das du eingesetzt hast, und schiebe es nach oben zur oberen Ecke des iPads.
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Erhitze erneut den iOpener und lege ihn auf die obere Kante des iPads über die Frontkamera.
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Wenn du einen flexiblen iOpener hast, kannst du ihn so umbiegen, dass sowohl die obere linke Ecke als auch die obere Kante gleichzeitig erhitzt werden.
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Schiebe das Plektrum um die obere linke Ecke des iPads, um den Kleber zu trennen.
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Schiebe das Plektrum entlang der Oberkante des iPads und halte kurz vor der Kamera an.
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Wenn du die Frontkamera erreichst, ziehe das Plektrum etwas heraus und schiebe es weiter an der Oberkante entlang.
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Lasse ein Plektrum kurz nach der Frontkamera im iPad stecken.
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Nimm ein zweites Plektrum und setze es links neben der Kamera ein, wo gerade eben das erste Plektrum war. Schiebe es zur Ecke zurück, um jeglichen Kleber vollständig zu lösen.
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Lasse das zweite Plektrum an Ort und Stelle, um zu vermeiden, dass sich der Kleber in der Ecke beim Abkühlen wieder verbindet.
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Setze das vorherige Plektrum tiefer in den iPad ein und schiebe es von der Kamera weg zur Ecke.
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Lasse die drei Plektren in den Ecken des iPads stecken, um zu vermeiden, dass sich der Kleber des Frontpanels wieder verbindet.
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Erhitze den iOpener erneut und lege ihn auf die übrige lange Seite des iPads entlang der Lautstärke- und Verriegelungstasten.
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Setze ein neues Plektrum ein und schiebe es entlang der rechten Kante des iPads herunter und trenne so den Kleber auf.
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Schiebe das Plektrum weiterhin die rechte Kante entlang herunter, falls nötig, erhitze die Kante erneut mit dem iOpener.
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Lasse die Plektren an Ort und Stelle und erhitze den iOpener erneut.
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Lege den erhitzten iOpener auf die Seite mit dem Home Button und lasse ihn dort ein paar Minuten, um den Kleber unter dem Glas aufzuweichen.
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Setze ein neues Plektrum an der unteren rechten Ecke des Displays ein, und zwar unter dem letzten Plektrum, das du benutzt hast, um die rechte Kante herunter zu schneiden.
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Schiebe das neue Plektrum um die untere rechte Ecke des Gerätes.
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Schiebe das Plektrum von der unteren rechten Ecke an der Unterkante des Gerätes entlang. Halte etwa 1,2 cm kurz vor dem Home Button an.
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Setze ein letztes Plektrum an der unteren linken Ecke des iPads ein, direkt unter dem bereits vorhandenen Plektrum.
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Schiebe das Plektrum weiterhin an der unteren linken Kante des Displays entlang in Richtung Mitte des iPads, bis es ungefähr 1,2 cm vom Home Button entfernt ist.
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Verdrehe die beiden Plektren an der Oberkante des iPads, um den letzten Kleber abzulösen, der das Display befestigt.
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Hebe das Display von der Oberkante her ab, um das Gerät zu öffnen.
"Twist the two picks at the top edge of the iPadTwist the two picks at the top edge of the iPad "
When I did this twisting motion, and I thought I was being gentle, one of the picks cracked nearly in half. That adhesive is very strong! I probably did not cut into it far enough before applying the twisting to open the screen.
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Entferne die vier 1,2 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben über der Halterung des Akku-/Displaysteckers.
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Entferne die Halterung des Akku-/Displaykabels.
Is it the end of the world if the bracket is not reinstalled, will the device function normally or will it eventually have issues with the connectors coming loose following shock?
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Benutze das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um den Akkustecker von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board zu trennen.
When i was starting to disconnect the lcd to the board i hit the black film and it lit and now even the new display wont display anything how to fix it? The black film near the lcd connector.
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Benutze die Spitze eines Spudgers, um den Stecker des Displaydatenkabels aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board zu lösen.
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Benutze die Spitze eines Spudgers, um den Stecker des Touchscreen-Kabels aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board zu lösen.
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Entferne die Displayeinheit.
Ich habe eine Bücherstütze benutzt um das Display in senkrechter Position zu halten, während ich die vier Schräubchen gelöst habe.. So zieht man nicht so an den Flexkabeln….!
Because the 3-piece adhesive strips shown in the Display Adhesive Application Guide link were different from iPad Mini 4 Adhesive Strips (item code IF316-013-1), it wasn't easy to figure out the exact location of the bottom adhesive. It would be helpful to include a separate application guide or an additional picture showing the exact location of each strip) on the guide.
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Erwärmen erneut den iOpener.
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Lege den iPad mit der Frontscheibe auf die Arbeitsfläche. Lege den iOpener auf die Rückseite, dort wo sich die Unterkante des Akkus befindet.
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In den folgenden Schritten wirst du die Klebeverbindung unter dem Akku auftrennen und ihn vom Rückgehäuse abhebeln.
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Der Kleber ist an den im Bild markierten Stellen angebracht: zwei Streifen an den langen Kanten, zwei kürzere Streifen rechtwinklig dazu in der Mitte.
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Damit der Akku nicht beschädigt wird, benötigst du Kunststoffwerkzeug, Wärme und Gedult. Perforiere, verbiege oder überhitze in den Akku nicht.
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Heble nicht in der Nähe des Logic Boards, du könnte dein iPad beschädigen.
The only tape adhesive kit that iFixit sells is incomplete for the cellular model. The are five extra small pieces of tape that go inboard around the cellular antenna. You will need to request another tape kit from iFixit, like I recently did, to cut custom pieces for that section. Amazingly I got pushback on that and was told that their kit is correct for the cellular model too, even after showing clear and obvious closeup photos of the leftover adhesive in those sections. That’s inexcusable for a repair site!
In general the tape of the battery to open is more work and need more head the the Display. The Headsink of the backhousing and batterie itself is big.. I in the end used an big hot air dryer to heat up the backside of the Pad!!
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Setze die Ecke einer Kunststoffkarte zwischen das untere Ende des Akkus und dem Rückgehäuse ein.
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Drücke die Ecke bzw. die Karte etwa 4 cm tief unter den Akku hinein.
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Setze eine zweite Plastikkarte zwischen der ersten Karte und dem Akku ein, diesmal mit der Kante der Karte parallel zum Akku.
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Drücke auch diese Karte etwa 4 cm tief unter den Akku hinein.
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Setze eine dritte Plastikkarte zwischen der ersten und der zweiten ein, dieses Mal in Flucht zur linken Akkukante.
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Trenne den Kleber unter dem Akku weiter auf, bis sich der Akku löst.
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Wenn das Hebeln und Auftrennen schwergängig wird, musst du den iOpener erneut erwärmen und auflegen. Achte darauf, dass der iOpener zwischen den Einsätzen genügend abkühlt.
The iopener kit only includes 2 cards
That’s what old credit cards are for.
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Entferne den Akku.
Reassembling it is not simply a matter of following the reverse of the disassembly instructions. You need to clean off all the adhesive tape pieces and residue. That is by far the most time consuming and potentially damaging part of this job. The adhesive will be very difficult to get off in some places. I use a combination of blow dryer with low heat, the pointed end if the plastic prying stick to rub it off, chiseled cut pieces of pencil eraser sticks, to rub it down even more, then finally, and very, very carefully, alcohol to get the residue off. Just wet enough on cotton cloth and cotton swabs to wipe but not to have it seep into delicate areas! Rub along and outboard of the edge of the display only to avoid damaging edge. It you don’t remove all the tape pieces and residue and have a clean and level result for the new tape then the display will not only not sit flush like a new iPad but it will not stick well!
Cellular model users see my important comment about thecelluar model in the beginning of the guide!
One big hint will be first to fix the batterie connector in the socket before You “drope” the battery in place! The new battery is a little bit smaller and if the battery ist fixed on the bottom, You have no chance to connect the plug without any damaging the socket!!!
One more hint conerning the tape which fix the Glass in the frame: I used the old tape and looked only that its “nearly undistroyed”.
A few overstreched pieces i cut away. It works fine!! After fixation in the frame of the Pad I heated up the whole Pad with a Hairdryer and pressed together again! Looks good !
Thanks general for this Documentation - Evan! ……..
For those worrying about glue residue, use pure IPA to soften the glue. Makes it very easy to remove. I also get it behind batteries when trying to remove them, they come unstuck much easier
You can clearly see there are four pieces of Plastic cards. In the kit there are only two. what would help would be a plastic card that is at least three times longer, so that it can be pressed bellow the battery.
You can make really short work of the glue residue by using Goo Gone. Spray it on a cotton cloth first sparingly (not on the device) and wipe it on the glue areas. It will come up very quickly. Then take a dry paper towel to ensure you don't leave any Goo Gone residual.
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Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenbauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenbauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
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22 Kommentare
This guide is great for disassembly. I’ve just successfully removed the battery from my device by following these instructions. However, it does not provide any guidance for applying the new adhesive strips before assembling the screen. For that reason, this guide seems incomplete.
[can’t edit the guide]
Cleaningoff the old adhesive:
Remove the old adhesive from underside of the glass and the edges of the case. This was the most time consuming part. Took 2-3 hours, because the original adhesive was really gummy and i didn’t want to damage any parts with harsh solvents. (I used a series of methods": citrus oil adhesive remover, methylated spirits, sticky tape stick and lift off.)
Making sure the edges of the glass and case are spotless ensures a good result when applying the new adhesive strips. New strips can be gently applied, peeled back and reapplied to make 100% sure they are in the right place. If adhesive residue is still present the new strips could get stuck in the wrong place and be impossible to reposition.
[can’t edit the guide]
Reassembly:
Replacement double sided adhesive strips are applied to the case first. Figure which strips go top, bottom and sides. Start with the top or bottom corner. Apply the side strips last so you can figure which side is which.
Make sure the front camera and its window are clean. Use a strong magnifying glass and air duster. You won’t be able to get any dirt out unless you have more adhesive strips to use.
When you are ready to assemble, peel the backing off the double sided adhesive.
Support the screen at 90deg to case. Reattach cable connectors. Attach new battery connector then carefully position new battery with exposed adhesive into position in the case.
Attach connector clamp plate with 4 screws.
Carefully position the screen in case starting from the bottom edge. When it fits all the way around, press firmly round the edges to seal.
The guide is rated at a medium difficulty, which is out of step with a few iPhone battery replacement guides that are at a hard difficulty. Compared to the iPhone, the iPad is significantly more difficult to service. Even though there are few steps, it’s far easier to damage the device.
I’d rate it the hardest repair in earth!
cheongi -
I’d like to chime in an idea when assembling the glass back on. I always like to place it upside down so the glass is on a flat surface. Then press down on the edges of the metal case backing.
This will ensure that you’re not pressing unevenly on the glass when assembling which can sometimes crack it. Possibly not so much with this glass, since it seems to be a little flexible. But I’ve learned the hard way with other devices it’s a bad idea to be pressing on glass. With this method the glass is always on a flat surface and should greatly minimize a possible crack.
Hi Thomas, like above written - I used the old Tape and looked that it more or less flat on Glass and the Metal frame then I only soft pressed the glass in the housing and warmed up the “sandwich” again….
But - You are right - only soft and not unevenly…..!
Really good guide, and make sure you follow it carefully otherwise you’ll damage the device. The part I almost missed was that you should be opening the device at the camera side, and only to 90 degrees before disconnecting the power and display cables.
As noted above above, there are no instructions for the adhesive reassembly, I ended up reusing what was left there, but for the more pedantic types there is a guide to apply new adhesive to the display assembly here.
Also, while I commend iFixit for their efforts to conserve, it feels like pushing products like the “iOpener”, “Spudger” or “iFixit Opening Picks set of 6” seems wasteful. You can easily make a heating pad with some rice and a sock, you will need a guitar pick, and then use some plastic cards. For the spudger use a needle and a small flathead screw driver.
I do recommend getting a set of their tools, if you’re planning on fixing more than one thing, it’s the best way to deal with Apple’s inane attempts to thwart our attempts of fixing things. :)
Starting the removal of the screen in the middle may not be as safe as starting the removal near the top corner. Not sure what caused it (likely I inserted pick too far) but I ended up with small blemish/glue under the screen near the starting point. Thankfully, its minor and barely noticeable after the repair. The hardest part was keeping the data and power cables aligned/attached while re-attaching the plate and 4 tiny screws. But with a little patience, I was able to re-assemble it.
I found no need to clean existing adhesive residue other than just pulling out the old adhesive strips. For the most part, installing the new adhesive strips was actually pretty easy but just a bit tedious. There should be a note about how to re-apply the strips. As long as you are careful with slowly re-applying while pulling off the protective plastic and face them the right way (it would have been nice to have some instructions on this).
In the end, the repair worked went very well and a new battery!
This does look difficult and tedious. Steps showing adhesive removal and re-application would be quite helpful. My iPad mini 4 (A1538) battery is showing signs of age but I think I would wait quite a bit longer based on the riskiness of damage at various stages that I read here. Still, given the cost from Apple ($300) to repair this sucker for me I think I would eventually give it a try regardless, but maybe with the hair dryer method for adhesive softening. Battery replacement cost from Apple is close to what the entire device originally cost!
Last battery was a Nohon battery. Lasted about 18 months. Then the “won’t start up past apple logo” problem. Others have said there was a fix for this bug, but the correct fix appears to be a new battery. New adhesive strips used different adhesive which wasn’t so gummy and was partly unstuck and screen was slightly loose. Disassembled easily using suction cup (Isclack) with extreme care at lower right or avoid this area where all the cables are. Old non-oem strips easily removed. New adhesive strips were different design. Figuring out which goes where is easier lining up with the base features, but strip backing made it easier to apply to the screen. With adhesive strips and intact backing on the screen side, iPad can be assembled for testing prior to final stick down later. Much easier repair this time than with original gummy adhesive.
I bought the battery kit and the iOpener kit. Very professionally packaged and presented. The iOpener heating sausage is really slick. I followed the instructions on my iPad as I was operating on my wife’s iPad mini 4 (no pressure). The most time consuming part is cleaning up the old adhesive in the case back and the screen edges. This is not for the timid, you have to be comfortable with taking stuff apart. Using the hot sausage often made the process of opening go well. I was pleased when i plugged it in to charge, everything lit up normally. Thanks for a great kit. Peter
This is way harder than thought. I broke my LCD. I assume the original iOpener I used to repair the iPad does either not get hot enough in 30s using a 800W microwave oven or is just not sufficient in heating. I think one may get better results by just using a hot air gun. More heat = less bent on the display.
I bought the battery/repair kit; took me 2 days. Ultimately I damaged the display - cracks, delamination, backlight on but no image. Waste of time and money.
The steps in the procedure don’t indicate - in a place-specific way - just how far you have to shove those opening picks underneath the glass to cut through the adhesive. You’re warned in Step 3 to not insert the pick more than 2mm but there are places where the adhesive continues in about 1cm or more. In Step 22 you’re supposed to twist those last two picks to fully dislodge the display from the case, but nowhere near enough adhesive had actually been released and apparently that’s when I did the damage. Alcohol wasn’t useful in getting the old adhesive off; it took Goof-Off and a few hours.
I thought the iOpener was pretty clever but it proved excessively challenging to keep it at a usable temperature. It was useless on the battery removal step; had to use a heat gun on low.
I have fixed mine twice now. See my comments above. For others daring to try, recommend to study teardown photos to see exactly where the adhesive is and cables are. iSclack or similar highly recommended and suggest to start in the middle of the short side where the cables are not - like opening an iphone. Use heat and finesse rather than force to weaken adhesive. Don’t use solvents to open case - i messed my iPhone 6s by partially delaminating touchscreen.
cheongi -
Just be very careful, when trying to remove the screen. I managed to get to far inside and also did cut into the scree controller. This is just one millimeter difference before destroying your screen.
Another successful battery replacement using this guide. Thank you! IMO, the estimated "1-2 hour" completion time is overly optimistic, especially for a first-timer (mine was more on the order of 5-6 hours, thanks to old adhesive removal 😉). As mentioned many times over, be patient, and use lots of heat, rather than force (I used a combo of iOpener and heat gun). Look at replacement adhesive strips (if available), and the pictures included with the guide, to determine how deep to go with the picks. Good luck!
What is iFixit thinking here, labelling this with "medium difficulty"? It's absolutely out of step and others mentioned it already: It is extremely easy to damage the screen of the iPad during this procedure, and the instructions are doing a horrible job indicating how truly difficult the procedure is. I repaired iPhones and Macbooks with the help of iFixit before, and have never damaged anything. But now, thanks to this poor guide, I too, just like others, have damaged the screen of the iPad I worked on. Absolutely disappointing to say the very least. I usually always stray away from using those pointy opening picks. I was stupid enough to use them this time, thanks to this guide, and what did it get me...? To make this even more infuriating, is the fact that new LCD screens come WITHOUT the home button, which you have to swap out from the old device with magnetic sensor flex cable, which requires micro soldering. People complained about this years ago. This's just bad, no no, I'm mailing support about this.
I just used this guide to replace a battery and everything seems to work. It is hard though and I had to improvise putting it back together, since it is not just following the guide in reverse order. It would be useful to show the adhesive layout on the backside of the screen (like you do with the battery), so it is easier to assess how deep to push the picks in.
I followed the instructions. Cleaned the old gum. Re-assembled after checking all the connectors were in place. Plugged in to charge. Nothing. Press and hold the on button. Nothing. Does it need to charge before it will turn on?
I can even see charge flowing on the charger display.
Just need to know if this is normal before I try to take it all apart again.
Took apart, all connectors firmly in place, but no life. Could it be a duff battery?
I didn't find this to be as hard as I had built it up in my mind to be; HOWEVER, saying that I need to say years ago I was the local Nokia service center in my town. But many years ago right after they got rid of analog times. Yeah. A classic installer/repairer mistake when starting something they haven't fixed or installed before is picking up the instructions, flipping through them; maybe even reading a section that is new-then tossing the instructions over the shoulder. "I got this." This usually comes right before something major gets broke. And I can tell you when you try to do it yourself and then mess it up horribly then take it to the repair shop. Well we called that "I can do it myself" syndrome and charged extra to put back together what they brought in in the box. Now knowing all this - I can't stress this enough because I am stupid, stupid, stupid. COVER YOUR SCREEN IN CLEAR BOXING TAPE AND READ ALL THE INSTRUCTION BELOW THROUGH TO THE END BEFORE EVEN ATTEMPTING THIS FIX. Take my advise.
windizy - Antwort
I didn't have an iOpener, so I used a wheat type heat bag. If you do this though, make sure you put a layer of plastic between your Mac and the bag, or you'll get condensation in places you don't want it.
Martin Gray - Antwort
I started out using the iOpener but switched to my wife's hairdryer. A heat gun or hair dryer proved to be much more convenient and is a time saviour. You can heat more and the glue becomes more fluid make the next steps with the opening picks much easier
Jan Van Puymbroeck - Antwort
I know this is obvious, but backup your iPad with iTunes before you start. I'd also turn off your passcode if you have one.
Laurie Higgins - Antwort
Ther first time you heat up the iOpener for this repair when its room temperature I had to heat it up for more than 30 seconds. I remember I had to heat it up for around 45 seconds. However, after that when you need to reheat it again during the repair 30 seconds will be enough.
Yousef Ghalib - Antwort
I used the wheat bag in a sensor microwave heating up to 65-70 deg C (155 def F).
ian cheong - Antwort
Get yourself a cherry pit bean bag the size of your iPad. Heat it, put the iPad on it for 3 to 5 minutes or so, reheat the cherry pit bean bag, again put your iPad on it. Then heat the iOpener and start working. The cherry pit bean bag will have to be reheated several times, but it will soften the adhesive so you have less problems with the iOpener
Tim Feyaerts - Antwort
The heating can be done very effectively (and quickly) with 3d printer heated bed. Make sure the bed is clean. Set the temperature to 60c, (130f ) and put the ipad face down for +/- 10 minutes. Repeat as needed throughout the “gentle prying” stages.
polleyphony - Antwort
The iOpener did not work at all for me.
I had to use a heat gun and bring the edges of the case up to ~200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer to measure) before the glue would weaken. This obviously superheated the metal frame, so I also had to wear gloves to handle the phone while prying the back off with the included picks.
Mike Jeanette - Antwort
Repair instructions worked like a charm. Had to be patient with the iOpener and getting the screen off. I tried repeatedly without success until shifting the suction cup a bit to the left side where perhaps the glue had loosened up a bit more.
Kyle - Antwort
The iOpener, in my opinion, is of no help. Many warnings to say “don’t warm it too much”, but the glue doesn’t melt if not warm enough. As a result, a complete waste of time and energy. In addition, too much liquid in it, so it doesn’t lay on the device on a sufficient surface. I took a hairdryer and it worked much much better.
laurentvidu - Antwort
I used an immersion bath to heat this to 180F and applied it to the device until the outside temperature of the opener read 150F with an IR thermometer. Removing the screen took very little force with this method.
breadandbits - Antwort
My experience. I was replacing the screen which had been cracked and a little shattered in some places. The iopener is pretty much useless, so was the suction cup. The suction cup would probably be more useful if I was doing something besides the screen. Also you probably want the clean the screen before using it so it can get good suction. I used a hair dryer on high for a couple of minutes at a time (someone on this tread suggested that). I used my exacto knife and a razor blade to get into the adhesive. First the exacto to get the initial cut, then the razor blade to go a little deeper. Could have probably just used the razor blade, but the exacto has a little more finesse. I got the razor blade in and a little under the glass then I used the picks to wedge in. I didn’t want to risk anything using the razor blade too much. Used tape to keep the shattered glass together.
trebor65 - Antwort
My experience pt2
Fortunately the shattering was mostly on the edges and most of it had adhesive on the back so it stuck together. Just take your time and work your way around following the guide to get the screen off. Have some goof off or goo be gone to clean the frame when putting the new glass on or putting the existing one back. (someone suggested that also, very good idea). Be careful of the LCD (you should know that). The cable on my LCD was pretty tight, so I propped it up while taking the cable cover off and when I put it back on I did the same thing. I just put a bottle on the battery and leaned the back of the LCD on that while attaching the cables and putting the screws back on the cover. Also be careful with the home button and the bracket on the back of it. I had enough old adhesive on left on the bracket that it stuck back to the new glass fine. So far only 12 hours in, so we will see how that holds up when the kids get at it.
trebor65 - Antwort
Another alternative if you do not have the iopener is to use a bed time hotwater bottle. Do not over fill it though. Just put enough hot water in to support the phone while you work around the adhesive.
I use both the hot water bottle and iopener together on Samsung's. It makes life easier
gazza667 - Antwort
I followed the directions and heated my iOpener for 30 seconds in a 1000 watt microwave, and it came out at 160 degrees F, as verified by a infrared thermometer. This allowed me to separate the last bit of the back of my Samsung S8, which was already coming off due to a swollen battery (hence the reason for the repair).
Dennis - Antwort
Hallo,habe den Akku erfolgreich getauscht.Doch seitdem gibt es bei Telefonaten eine Rückkopplung für den anrufenden.Bei mir ist alles normal.Woran liegt das?Mfg
Manu R - Antwort
If you follow these instructions, you will crack your screen like I did. Heating the iOpener for 30 seconds, using it to melt glue, then waiting 10 minutes to reheat is useless. The iOpener can be used to maybe warm the glue on whatever side you aren’t working on. You need a hairdryer and/or a heat gun to melt the glue and separate the glass from the iPad.
Anyone want to buy an old iPad with broken glass and a dead battery?
mpulliam - Antwort
Not everybody has a microwave. You should provide a target temperature for the iOpener and instructions for a conventional oven, or pot of warm water, or whatever. Although I will probably use a heat gun …
Esmond Pitt - Antwort
Three times heating opener and no luck. Tried pressing down gently on opener with a towel, and the opener broke. Wondering if I now replace table mats, fancy table cloth, etc. or will this stuff wash out.
Not impressed so far. Maybe the hair dryer next.
doug - Antwort
I support the comments about the iOpener. Everyone has a hair drier, FHS, so get a cheap IR thermometer (£18) and blow heat until the area is 60+ deg C. Still takes w while, and getting the screen off is v scary, but just add more heat if you feel resistance.
The rest of the kit is good, esp the magnetic screwdrivers.
Richard O'Brien - Antwort
No, everyone does not have a hairdryer. Some of us don’t even have hair. Thank goodness I already had an IR thermometer, though.
nin10doh -
#### WARNUNG WENN MINIMALSTER SPRUNG IM DISPLAY IST FUNKTIONERT DAS NICHT!!! ######
Hatte einen winzigen, minimalen Sprung im Display. Ich dachte es könnte gehen, weil der Sprung “abgeschlossen” war. Er hat in einer Ecke ein winzige Glasteil rausgeschnitten. NEIN! Geht nicht. Habe alles mit viel Geduld dem iOpener und einem Föhn erhitzt. Es ist trotzdem sofort über das komplette Display zersprungen…
T z - Antwort
I’ve started with iOpener but changed very quickly to a heatgun. That was more efficient.
Mizzoo, s.r.o. - Antwort
I could not get the iOpener hot enough to melt the glue on my ipad 6. I heated for 45 seconds once and it was boiling and it still never worked. Thank goodness contributors mentioned using a hair dryer. Using an 1700w hair dryer on high did the trick to get the screen off. Still took some time and the case got pretty hot but be patient. It took twice as long and a lot more patience to get the battery out.
Randal Haufler - Antwort
I have an Ipad with touch screen issue, if i replace this part it should be Ok?
janderson martin - Antwort
WARNING - DO NOT MICROWAVE ON A METAL MICROWAVE RACK
The metal microwave rack can heat up and melt through the iOpener cover letting the contents leak out.
Not a big issue for me as I have a heat gun and used that instead.
Run Up A Tree - Antwort
I opened my iPad with the iOpener. Be patient! It may take quite a bit longer to it the iOpener in the microwave than it says in the guide. My microwave can only do 800W and I had to put the iOpener in several times (maybe a total of 90-120 seconds). I recommend that you have the transparent side up an watch the bag carefully. As long a the bag doesn't bloat up and the liquid doesn't start bubbling you should be fine. But I recommend to take the iO out from time to time to check it. (More comments in Step 6.)
marcelflueeler - Antwort
I gave upon the I opener and used a hairdryer. (Fixed an iPad 6)
Tom Weber - Antwort
iPad mini gen5. I used the iOpener. My microwave is 1200w with carousel. 30 sec got the iOpener to 155ºF. For the 2nd heating, after 10 minutes sitting, the temp was still around 125º so I only cooked it for 15 sec. Not enough increase so +5 sec more which me to 165-170ºF. This should be considered ballpark info because who knows the real output of the various microwaves and the quality of the IR tool used to determine temp.
To successfully open my iPad mini I applied the iOpener twice to the left edge and twice to bottom. & once to R edge. Using the suction cup was difficult for me (I'm in my 70's so my hands don't work too well anymore). I had trouble holding the guitar pick and slipping them in (at an downward angle). In the end, sliding my thumbnail along the edge opened it very slightly and allowed the pick to get into the gap. I marked the ends of all my picks with a sharpie pen for the recommended 2mm insertion to avoid going in too deep. To get the screen open it took me approx 1 hour.
jharrison - Antwort
Can’t you just use a hair curler instead?
Aspect22 - Antwort
A hairdryer or heat gun works, if heating is kept around 100 deg C (212 deg F - boiling point of water). But… heating this way is cumbersome. Using a hotplate, set to 100 deg C, measured carefully with a fairly inexpensive IR gun, is simpler and easier, if you can afford the hotplate (I used an old pancake griddle with a thermostat knob). It works great for phones, setting them face down for 2 minutes, then picking them up with insulated gloves - cheap, wool gloves work fine. This may require repeated reheating to continue the display removal, but its much simpler.
Because its almost impossible to repeatedly lay an iPad/tablet on the hot plate, I propose an alternative.
Initially lay the larger iPad/tablet, face down, for 2 min, to heat all of the adhesive surrounding the display. Lift and begin the picking process describe in your removal steps. Then lay an iOpener on the hotplate for 2 min (already set to the exact, desired temp) to bring it to working temp for the remaining operations.
Dan Smith - Antwort
For iPads in particular, it makes sense to construct a simple, aluminum window frame, laid on a hotplate (see my comment above) that only touches the edges of the display, heating only the adhesive underneath. This prevents general heating of the entire device. Four strips of aluminum, placed together as a frame, would be the simplest and allow variations for all devices - envision it as a pinwheel of strips, radiating outward. Use it for any size device.
Dan Smith - Antwort
BTW, always read all comments at each step. New, and possibly useful, suggestions appear on occasion that can be crucial.
Dan Smith - Antwort