Einleitung
Benutze diese Anleitung , um die Haupt-Rückkamera des iPhones zu entfernen.
Anmerkung: Der Ausbau des Akkus erleichtert den Zugang zur Abdeckplatte des Verbinders der Rückkamera. Es ist jedoch nicht zwingend notwendig, den Akku auszubauen. Falls dein Akku besonders schwer zu entfernen ist, lass ihn drinnen und arbeite um ihn herum.
Was du brauchst
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Schalte dein iPhone aus, bevor du es auseinander baust.
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Deine iPhone 4 Rückabdeckung ist entweder mit zwei Kreuzschlitzschrauben #000 oder Pentalobeschrauben von Apple (zweites Bild) befestigt. Schaue nach, um welche Schrauben es sich handelt, um sicher zu gehen, dass du den richtigen Schraubendreher zum Lösen hast.
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Entferne die beiden 3,6 mm Pentalobe oder Kreuzschlitzschrauben #000 neben dem Dock Anschluss.
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Schiebe die Rückabdeckung in Richtung Oberkante des iPhones.
If the back doesn't slide in properly upon reassembly, you didn't insert the motherboard properly. Remove it and try it again, DO NOT try to force it down!
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Entferne das hintere Panel von Hand vom iPhone. Verwende alternativ einen Saugheber.
using suction cup with too much force breaks rear panel
Remove the single 2.5 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector to the logic board- for me this Phillips screw won't budge from its place have tried all the phillips combinations 000, 00, 0, 1 and the straight /slotted 1.5 mm but nothing. can some help me please purchased a replacement battery for my iPhone 4 but not able to do it just because of this screw.
If the screw head is not buggered, press the tip of a hot soldering iron to the screw for a second or two. Don't get it too hot, or you'll damage something.
splaye -
don't use hot soldering iron . the female outlet the battery plugs into is very fragile . for no extra money you can buy a battery that has magnetic tools specifically to pick this screw out . if worse comes to worse be certain the screw will come no looser then use tweezers and pick it out . the #1 fear with this technique is DO NOT DROP THE SCREW . I have done this and crawling on my hands and knees till I find it was depressing
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Entferne die einzelne 2,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, mit der der Akkustecker am Logic Board befestigt ist.
I was going through the take apart and after reassembly, it seems to just sit there an power cycle. It's as though the battery is no longer working. Any thoughts as to what I may have done wrong?
you potentially messed up the ribbon cable from the battery to the adapter. I have done it before. Its not fun...
barri80 -
Stuck on step 4 can't unscrew the battery screw. stopped trying as all i seem to be doing is damaging the screw any tips as to how to approach this?
I ended up drilling the head of one of my screws off. It was already damaged. Then I think I used needle pliers to spin it out once the plate came off and there was more room to grab the shank.
I didn't need to remove the battery !! why would you take the battery away, the motor can be removed easily with the battery in place, and the whole process would take less than 2 minutes if you exclude the battery steps
I was VERY careful but the interior philips screw holding the battery in place but it stripped immediately. I see others have had this problem. What do I do now?!
I've tried three different #000 drivers but they don't fit this screw. Stuck now. Also blows my confidence about proceeding because even if I do get this off.... I see some even smaller Phillips head screw further along in the process
If the screw is not damaged by previous attempts, the screw driver should fit perfectly. You can also tap the screw with a small mass to unlock.
revher -
Despite the battery replacement it’s really simple, in my iPhone 4 there was a totally different connector for the battery (I’ll post a few photos). Wider, only one screw but at the top, with a small contact clip screwed together with the battery connector, and which flies off once you remove the battery connector. By the way the battery provided from ifixit did not fit into neither any of the screw holes nor in the socket. The socket is in a different position compared to that in the pictures here and the battery connector can’t reach at the same time the socket and it’s seat. Sadly I have to give up… 🥲
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Heble mit einem Plastic Opening Tool den Akkustecker aus seiner Buchse auf dem Logic Board.
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Entferne den Metall-Clip, die den Antennenstecker bedeckt.
There is a small black L-shaped bracket of some sort that tits between the battery connector and the motherboard socket, with a loop on one corner that sits betwen the riserand the battery connector. Remove this now, and do not forget to re install it on assembly.
In Step 5 be EXTRA careful with the battery connector as the socket can come off extremely easy. This can mess up the replacement a little bit and cost you extra. Otherwise, this guide is excellent.
Good luck, fixers!
I fix(ed) it!
When removing this L shaped piece, it should be shown ON CAMERA where it came from and the exact position it was in while in the phone, I had to take 2 screws (not 1 like said in the video) out to get to this piece and once that second screw came up I didn't get a chance to see where this piece came from because it popped right out. I was extremely nervous but I believe I got it back in properly.
Putting the antennae cover back in place is impossible without a good photo. I used this link to refer to:
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Verwende die durchsichtige Kunststofflasche, um vorsichtig den Akku aus dem iPhone zu heben.
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Wenn sich noch Reste vom Alkohol im Smartphone befinden, dann wische sie sorgfältig weg oder lasse das Gehäuse gut austrocknen, bevor du den neuen Akku einbaust.
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Bevor du den Akkustecker wieder anschließt, stelle sicher, dass der Kontaktclip (in rot) korrekt neben dem Akkustecker positioniert ist.
use the iPod opening tool to pry gently under the battery from the outer edge of the phone and work towards the plastic tab. the tab is not actually attached to the battery itself, but a plastic sheet between the battery and inner frame. the adhesive on the battery tends to be under the edge of the battery nearest the center of the phone.
This i think is the most diffucult part.
Because they use so much glue on it. I have to did this with so much force.
Glad that i didn't kill the circuit board when i took this out.
My battery was so firmly glued in, it took a long time to slowly pry it loose. Patience is the key to this process. I could see easily damaging the circuit board by using too much force. The plastic tab did not help at all.
The ribbon cable attaching the new battery to the battery connector clip is longer than the original. I clicked the clip into the socket first and then was very careful to fold the excess while putting the battery back in so the ribbon cable didn't kink. One kink in this could sever the battery leads.
My ribbon cable was also longer than the original. How did you get it to not kink while placing the batter back into the phone? That seems to be my only hang up at the moment
Piece of cake! The hardest part was being sure the outer pentalobe screws were actually turning and I wasn't stripping them. Battery was glued firmly in, so I loosened it from the outside instead of using the plastic pull-tab. I pre-bent the battery connector neck before putting it back in and had no problems with it fitting in. Getting the battery connector aligned with the antenna piece underneath was a bit fiddly. Got the case back on, put in the new screws, and powered the phone on without problem. Had 40% charge, all seems well. Yippee!
Do NOT use a spudger or similar type of prising tool to try lift up the battery. Instead, just warm up the whole area with a hot air gun or hair drier to soften the glue.
The reason why I say don't use an implement to try lift the battery is because far too many times I've seen punctured & bent batteries come in to this workshop that have to be thrown out for safety reasons. It only takes a grain of sand, or a burr on the spudger and you're risking a potential cell rupture and potential fire.
Just use a bit of heat ( not a lot! ) to soften up the glue and it'll come away with the plastic pull tab.
These instructions don't mention putting the 2.5mm screw back in. I found this very challenging because it is so short, so very difficult to line it up to get it back in the hole, and very easy to drop it inside the phone. Take care.
Apparently it's not necessary to remove the battery, but try at least (I'm curious).
The battery was stuck (too much glue) and the plastic tab didn't help, and I ripped it...
So I use the plastic opening tool on the other side to remove really gently the battery, it was really really stucked with the glue... Now I'll know when I'll need to change it.
I put a little piece of tape to repair the plastic tab for the next time.
For the other part of the guide, it was a piece of cake and I'm a bad bad handyman :)
Thanks for the guide!
You are right. This is the reason why their is simpler guide: iPhone 4 Battery disconnection to be used when there is no necessity for removing the battery. Disconnection is sufficient for many fixes except replacement of the battery!
revher -
you have to remove the battery for digitizer replacement, however i would suggest removing it at the very last stage, i.e. step 24. cause it is easier to remove without the logic board being there
Adhesive was holding battery VERY firmly, so during this step I used a hair blow dryer on low setting to carefully heat up the device. Then used the plastic tool to gently but firmly pry up one place on each edge. At first it felt like barely anything was happening, but within a few tries the adhesive gave away easily and the battery came right out.
Before inserting the battery I put the contact clip into position. It has a hooked shape on one side which fits between the socket and the folded battery cable. If you try to position it AFTER the battery is installed the whole process is much more difficult. I used a tweezers to hold it in place while inserting the battery.
When inserting the battery I started by guiding the folded cable into position against the side of the contact clip, then proceeded to lay the battery in position. This made it very easy to have all parts in their original positions -- no need to fiddle with the battery cable or contact clip afterwards.
When pressing the battery connector into the socket, the first time I pressed from bottom to top. That didn't work because there is a little tab at the top of the connector which must fit into a tiny notch or else the connector won't lay flat properly. Pressing the connector from top to bottom worked easily.
Needle-nosed tweezers were very helpful when lining up the screws. After everything was reassembled I tried powering up the device, but the battery had insufficient charge. I plugged it in and immediately the screen displayed a battery with a thin red line (illustrating no charge). After 25 minutes the device sprang to life and indicated a 10% charge. At 70 minutes the battery indicated 30% charge, and at that rate should be fully charged in under 4 hours. It's fixed!!
Why they didn't say this, I have no idea: HEAT UP THE BACK OF THE PHONE! This helps the adhesive give so much easier, worth the extra 2 minutes to make sure you don't tear anything.
super easy, battery had plenty of glue for what ever reason, I put the screw in 1st then set the battery and was easy to set the new battery. Charge was at 94% strange seeing it next to my Iphone 6 but glad I did it as now I can use it for music and save the battery on the main phone. Thanks for a easy instruction guide.
Strictly speaking re-assembly is NOT the exact reverse of dismantling. In particular do not put the battery in and then try to plug in the connector, Rather, start by plugging in the connector (having straightened the ribbon-wire attaching it to the battery) and only then re=position the battery on its (gluey) base. Also I used a wooden cocktail stick to position the antenna connector correctly (pushing the stick through the hole in the antenna piece and into the threaded base where the screw will eventually go) and then I held it all in place (temporarily) with a tiny blob of Bluetac until I managed to successfully withdraw the cocktail stick and fit the proper screw.
Stuey 25/2/2018
.Heating a towel and wrapping the phone for 3 min did the trick of removal of the battery.
I used the plastic opening tool to nudge the battery a bit and then shoved in the guitar pick. By sliding the guitar pick over the length of the battery, the battery got unstuck very easily.
When attaching the battery connector make sure that it snaps in place. My replacement battery connector did not snap in place and I forced it on, that caused the connector to detach from the ribbon cable. I had to solder the connector back onto the cable which requires a very steady hand and SMD soldering tools. So, if it does not snap in place with a clicking sound, the connector is probably of bad quality and your battery will probably not work. I placed my old battery back (where the connector nicely snapped in place) and am waiting for a replacement of the dodgy replacement battery.
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Entferne die fünf folgenden Schrauben, die die Abdeckung des Verbinders am iPhone befestigen:
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Eine 2,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube
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Zwei 1,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben
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Eine 1,4 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube
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Eine 4,8 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube
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Anmerkung: Um ihre richtige Position nicht zu vergessen, ist es hilfreich, fünf Kreise auf ein Blatt Papier zu zeichnen, und dann jede Schraube in den entsprechenden Kreis zu legen.
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Benutze ein iPod Öffnungswerkzeug, um die Oberkante der Abdeckung des Verbinders leicht vom Logic Board wegzuheben.
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Benutze die Spitze eines Spudgers, um die Halteklammern der Abdeckung des Verbinders vom inneren Rahmen abzulösen.
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Entferne die Abdeckung des Verbinders vom iPhone.
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Achte darauf, vor dem Zusammenbau alle Metall-auf-Metall-Kontakte auf der Abdeckung des Verbinders zu reinigen. Das Fett deiner Finger kann sonst unter Umständen Probleme mit kabellosen Interferenzen erzeugen.
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Benutze ein iPod Öffnungswerkzeug, um den Verbinder der Rückkamera vorsichtig aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board zu heben.
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Entferne die Rückkamera vom iPhone, vermeide es dabei, einige der Verbinder auf der rechten Seite zu bewegen.
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Nachdem du eine neue Kamera eingesetzt hast, kontrolliere diese Verbinder falls das iPhone nicht angeht.
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Anmerkung: Der Akku (nicht auf den Fotos zu sehen) sollte abgetrennt sein, muss aber nicht ganz entfernt werden.
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Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Rückgängig: Ich habe diese Anleitung nicht absolviert.
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Angehängte Dokumente
11 Kommentare
This was super simple. My camera was not focusing after a previous company replaced it due to a faulty flash. I decided to take things into my own hands...no pun intended.
The instructions are super simple and easy to follow. Be aware of the loose clip under the connector - mine flew out - and I was worried I wouldn't figure out how to get it back in.
I also had to use a #0 screwdriver...#00 was too large.
I couldn't get the battery out...so, I was just super careful that the phone was off, and remained off during the repair.
Out with the defective camera...in with the functioning camera...replaced a couple of screws and the battery connector. Tested the camera prior to replacing everything.
Thank you ifixit!
You ROCK!!!
great comment!. You Rock!
Luca -
Hi guys. I just did it ! I would not describe it as super easy, but thanks to the screw template provided file, even the now famous pressure contact can not be lost ;-)
I just wanted to comment, not only to praise iFixit (and myself), but also to mention two side effects I had to overcome:
-First, when finished, the power button did not work (I had to plug the Dock Connector to start the phone). As I the power button is not so far from the rear camera, I figured out something went wrong in the reassembly. Since I had just done it once, I thought I could do it a second time, so I removed the newly assembled camera and reassembled it with extra caution. At the end, the power button worked as expected.
-Second: each time I restarted the phone after reassembly (twice, then), the SIM card would not unlock after the PIN code was entered. I had to remove and reinsert the SIM card for the PIN code to finally unlock it.
Otherwise, everything went smoothly, thanks again to the iFixit guys !
Fantastic!!! my problem was the rear camera, when i switch on the camera app the screen were completely black and the torch was not working at all! I buyed the tools and the rear camera everything arrived here in Italy in perfect time as scheduled and in one hour I did the job !!! now my iphone camera is perfectly up and running !!! thanks to IFIXIT.COM and their guides!
hello guys ! I have done the replacement correctly because my camera wasn't able to focus anymore ! But now the flash light isn't working anymore :(( what can i do ?
Sincerly,
Antoine
Thank you for the guide on the Camera replacement. However it is not necessary to remove the battery entirely but just to disconnect it. The battery is usually firmly glued and a lot of time is wasted. This guide on Camera replacement (3142) should not include the full guide "iPhone 4 Battery Replacement (3141)" but a shorter guide "iPhone 4 Battery disconnection (24135)" which I wrote. Unfortunately, my changes have be denied without any comment. In my recent edits of this guide (which have been denied too!) I also mentioned that when extracting the camera, you can unfortunately unplug some of the connectors located at the bottom right of the camera. They should be firmly plugged again otherwise (and this was my case) the Iphone may not power on. If you agree with my changes, could you look at my edits in the history of this guide and insert them again because they will answer to some of the general questions above.
Excellent guide. Got my defective rear camera out that was causing overheating issues and battery drain, and now everything's working back to normal! Saved me a lot of money, and buys me enough time until my next phone upgrade. Thank you!
Thanks the guide was great.
But I got a problem now before I don´t. The screen is broken, it shows lines white and green vertical and horizontal, there´s nothing to see, it´s like a electroshok, I dont know when it happens during the fixing.
I got this problem now:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g8BiaM-_...
Any idea?
Thanks!
It sounds like you loosened the connection/ribbon between the lcd screen and motherboard. It needs to be cleaned and/or reconnected.
Try to reconnect the fpc connector on the LCD, if it doesn’t reimage as before it may have damaged the connector on the screen, then you will need to buy a new one and fit it carefully
using something like the 18-compartment tray will GREATLY help with this one; there are over a dozen groups of parts. For re-assembly having a digital calipers to measure the 2.4 vs the 2.6mm screws also helps greatly.
awr - Antwort
My method for hardware management during delicate phone surgery is to take and print out on 8.5"x11' paper, one or more pictures of the open phone in various stages of disassembly, and then tape the screws to the appropriate spots on the pictures. Also write numbers on the pictures next the screws to indicate the order in which you removed them.
lens42 -
I use a plastic egg tray, I drop all the screws and small parts (like the camera) for each step into the same egg indentation. You can see that the screws are different lengths, so I don't put one screw into it's own spot. I used 5 egg indentations to replace my screen.
Mangled Jargon -
I did a successful surgery on my iPhone, be warned this is not for the faint of heart!
I've done iPod screen replacements, battery replacements, this is by far much more difficult and intricate.
Great write up! Thanks a million.
Jaysen Strange - Antwort
I've changed some iPod screens as well and that has been the least pleasant experience so far. Glue and the main connector that has to be unwrapped and connected from the rear where you have no feel or control where it belongs.
iPhone repair is complex, but doable and has very few "traps".
mcbohdo -
Couldn't even get both screws out of the bottom of the case. One was easy and other refuses to budge. Screws so small I can't see if it is turning or screw driver is properly seated. Sad I too have done screen replacements on other phones. Don't know any secrets to get the screw out
ckracht - Antwort
I also have a problem with seeing what is happening with some of those tiny little screws and parts. For other projects that I do, I use an Opti-Visor. It slips over your head and provides 10x magnification. ( You can find them on Amazon).
Yeah, it adds cost to the project and you would have to wait for delivery, but it sure makes a world of difference in seeing what you are working with / on.
jhow -
On an early iPhone 4 I found that the #000 Phillips bit included in the 54 Bit Driver Kit didn't actually fit the screws. However the JIS #000 also in the kit did fit quite well. This is due to the JIS bits "thinner" design to prevent camming out of the slot. Otherwise everything went well. Looking forward to replacing the battery in my other phone that has the pentalobe screws. Glad I got the 54 Bit kit!
etler - Antwort
Use a vacuum duster and a sharp tool to pry out the dust, this can increase the volume insanely!
Dpairs - Antwort
What does the park that is gold and next to the 4.8mm screw for the antenna? Looks like I am missing that part and almost positive that is why I can't pick up or connect to any wifi signals. I have the screw and the antenna from another phone that is working and tried it on the broken phone and still doesn't work. Only thing different is that gold metal piece to the left of that 4.8 mm screw. Can I buy that part? how do I attach it?
Jay Pennington - Antwort
great instructions did it the first time
Mr J - Antwort
For organisation of the parts and for a much easier process of rebuilding i use a big magnetic flat surface with a grid drawn on it. Then I use a dry erase marker to make any notes I need and to number the parts in order as i disassemble . Believe me it saves a lot of time and hassle especially if you drop one of those tiny screws good luck finding it but when your working over the magnet and drop a screw its going to be right where it fell. At first I tried the piece of paper to keep organised but all it takes is one small slip and you move the paper too quick and your left with a jumbled bunch of screws and parts and a painstaking task of putting it all back correctly, aka a big waist of time and effort.
case-yg - Antwort
I found it very useful to use a magnet sheet when doing these repairs. I use electrical tape or a sharpie to make a grid, and place each micro screw in a separate box on the grid.
I work directly over the magnet sheet, so that if something drops I have a better chance at not losing it.
If you do lose a screw, go over the work area with a fridge magnet. It will pick it up if it hasn’t popped too far away.
Megan Telliano - Antwort