Einleitung

Hier wird der Austausch der metallenen Vibrations-/Signaltaste gezeigt. Die Anleitung gilt nicht für den elektronischen Teil der Vibrations-/Signaltaste.

Bevor du anfängst, musst du den Akku deines iPhones auf unter 25% entladen. Ein geladener Lithium-Ionen Akku kann sich entzünden oder explodieren, fall er versehentlich beschädigt wird. Schalte dein iPhone aus, bevor du es auseinander baust.
  • Bevor du anfängst, musst du den Akku deines iPhones auf unter 25% entladen. Ein geladener Lithium-Ionen Akku kann sich entzünden oder explodieren, fall er versehentlich beschädigt wird.

  • Schalte dein iPhone aus, bevor du es auseinander baust.

  • Deine iPhone 4 Rückabdeckung ist entweder mit zwei Kreuzschlitzschrauben #000 oder Pentalobeschrauben von Apple (zweites Bild) befestigt. Schaue nach, um welche Schrauben es sich handelt, um sicher zu gehen, dass du den richtigen Schraubendreher zum Lösen hast.

  • Entferne die beiden 3,6 mm Pentalobe oder Kreuzschlitzschrauben #000 neben dem Dock Anschluss.

    • Achte darauf, dass der Schraubender-her korrekt sitzt, wenn du die Pentalobe Schrauben entfernst. Ihre Schraubköpfe können leicht beschädigt werden.

  • Wir empfehlen, die 5-Punkt-Schrauben beim Wiederzusammenbau durch passende Kreuzschlitzschrauben zu ersetzen. Unser Liberation Kit beinhaltet die Werkzeuge und Schrauben, die gebraucht werden, um die Pentalobe Schrauben durch Kreuzschlitzschrauben zu ersetzen.

Caution: New phones may contain T1 screw heads instead of Phillips.

ajg35 - Antwort

any news on those screwdrivers? where can we buy them?

grze -

using something like the 18-compartment tray will GREATLY help with this one; there are over a dozen groups of parts. For re-assembly having a digital calipers to measure the 2.4 vs the 2.6mm screws also helps greatly.

awr - Antwort

My method for hardware management during delicate phone surgery is to take and print out on 8.5"x11' paper, one or more pictures of the open phone in various stages of disassembly, and then tape the screws to the appropriate spots on the pictures. Also write numbers on the pictures next the screws to indicate the order in which you removed them.

lens42 -

I use a plastic egg tray, I drop all the screws and small parts (like the camera) for each step into the same egg indentation. You can see that the screws are different lengths, so I don't put one screw into it's own spot. I used 5 egg indentations to replace my screen.

robin -

I did a successful surgery on my iPhone, be warned this is not for the faint of heart!

I've done iPod screen replacements, battery replacements, this is by far much more difficult and intricate.

Great write up! Thanks a million.

Jaysen Strange - Antwort

I've changed some iPod screens as well and that has been the least pleasant experience so far. Glue and the main connector that has to be unwrapped and connected from the rear where you have no feel or control where it belongs.

iPhone repair is complex, but doable and has very few "traps".

mcbohdo -

Couldn't even get both screws out of the bottom of the case. One was easy and other refuses to budge. Screws so small I can't see if it is turning or screw driver is properly seated. Sad I too have done screen replacements on other phones. Don't know any secrets to get the screw out

ckracht - Antwort

I also have a problem with seeing what is happening with some of those tiny little screws and parts. For other projects that I do, I use an Opti-Visor. It slips over your head and provides 10x magnification. ( You can find them on Amazon).

Yeah, it adds cost to the project and you would have to wait for delivery, but it sure makes a world of difference in seeing what you are working with / on.

jhow -

On an early iPhone 4 I found that the #000 Phillips bit included in the 54 Bit Driver Kit didn't actually fit the screws. However the JIS #000 also in the kit did fit quite well. This is due to the JIS bits "thinner" design to prevent camming out of the slot. Otherwise everything went well. Looking forward to replacing the battery in my other phone that has the pentalobe screws. Glad I got the 54 Bit kit!

etler - Antwort

Use a vacuum duster and a sharp tool to pry out the dust, this can increase the volume insanely!

Dpairs - Antwort

At the very last second before insertion, the second new screw for the bottom popped out of my pliers! I dont' want to use the old ones, but I don't want to leave it with one screw. Can I get a replacement screw?

Otherwise it went together fine, and I figured out for myselkf that the contact needs to be bent,,,

loujudson - Antwort

What does the park that is gold and next to the 4.8mm screw for the antenna? Looks like I am missing that part and almost positive that is why I can't pick up or connect to any wifi signals. I have the screw and the antenna from another phone that is working and tried it on the broken phone and still doesn't work. Only thing different is that gold metal piece to the left of that 4.8 mm screw. Can I buy that part? how do I attach it?

Jay Pennington - Antwort

great instructions did it the first time

Mr J - Antwort

very informative i also visit http://itrepairguide.com/iphone-4-intern...

before this which is also too easy

saam - Antwort

For organisation of the parts and for a much easier process of rebuilding i use a big magnetic flat surface with a grid drawn on it. Then I use a dry erase marker to make any notes I need and to number the parts in order as i disassemble . Believe me it saves a lot of time and hassle especially if you drop one of those tiny screws good luck finding it but when your working over the magnet and drop a screw its going to be right where it fell. At first I tried the piece of paper to keep organised but all it takes is one small slip and you move the paper too quick and your left with a jumbled bunch of screws and parts and a painstaking task of putting it all back correctly, aka a big waist of time and effort.

case-yg - Antwort

Schiebe die Rückabdeckung in Richtung Oberkante des iPhones. Das Abdeckung wird sich um etwa 2mm verschieben.
  • Schiebe die Rückabdeckung in Richtung Oberkante des iPhones.

  • Das Abdeckung wird sich um etwa 2mm verschieben.

the back won't budge! I cant get it off! what do i do?

Debbie - Antwort

Use a suction cup to pull the back screen gently.

snazzify -

If the back doesn't slide in properly upon reassembly, you didn't insert the motherboard properly. Remove it and try it again, DO NOT try to force it down!

Addison Rasmussen - Antwort

Entferne das hintere Panel von Hand vom iPhone. Verwende alternativ einen Saugheber.
  • Entferne das hintere Panel von Hand vom iPhone. Verwende alternativ einen Saugheber.

  • Achte darauf, dass du die Kunststoffklammern, die an der Rückabdeckung befestigt sind, nicht beschädigst.

  • Wenn du eine neue Rückabdeckung einbaust, achte darauf, dass du den Schutzaufkleber von der Innenseite der Kameralinse und den Sticker von der großen schwarzen Fläche neben der Linse entfernst.

using suction cup with too much force breaks rear panel

lily einstein - Antwort

Remove the single 2.5 mm Phillips screw securing the battery connector to the logic board- for me this Phillips screw won't budge from its place have tried all the phillips combinations 000, 00, 0, 1 and the straight /slotted 1.5 mm but nothing. can some help me please purchased a replacement battery for my iPhone 4 but not able to do it just because of this screw.

Naved Zaidi - Antwort

If the screw head is not buggered, press the tip of a hot soldering iron to the screw for a second or two. Don't get it too hot, or you'll damage something.

splaye -

don't use hot soldering iron . the female outlet the battery plugs into is very fragile . for no extra money you can buy a battery that has magnetic tools specifically to pick this screw out . if worse comes to worse be certain the screw will come no looser then use tweezers and pick it out . the #1 fear with this technique is DO NOT DROP THE SCREW . I have done this and crawling on my hands and knees till I find it was depressing

michael andrie - Antwort

I have tried everything to remove the screw securing the battery connector to the logic board and nothing. Any help?

Isabela - Antwort

Entferne die einzelne 2,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, mit der der Akkustecker am Logic Board befestigt ist.
  • Entferne die einzelne 2,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, mit der der Akkustecker am Logic Board befestigt ist.

    • Einige Geräte weisen zwei Schrauben auf, eine davon am Kontaktpad, die über der rot gekennzeichneten Schraube sitzt.

I was going through the take apart and after reassembly, it seems to just sit there an power cycle. It's as though the battery is no longer working. Any thoughts as to what I may have done wrong?

Social Apples - Antwort

you potentially messed up the ribbon cable from the battery to the adapter. I have done it before. Its not fun...

barri80 -

Use #000 fine screw driver!!!

bfbogaert - Antwort

Use an #000 fine screw driver to remove two screws from iPhone 4s!

bfbogaert - Antwort

There is a metal bracket that secures the connector, that will be removed before the conector is unfasten

poseido - Antwort

When I used a plastic opening tool to gently disconnect the battery connector from its socket, I accidently remove the socket too.. Now what? :( ......

odisseas - Antwort

Stuck on step 4 can't unscrew the battery screw. stopped trying as all i seem to be doing is damaging the screw any tips as to how to approach this?

Tazziii - Antwort

I ended up drilling the head of one of my screws off. It was already damaged. Then I think I used needle pliers to spin it out once the plate came off and there was more room to grab the shank.

torqvette -

my phone doesnt have a screw that connects the battery to the logic bored...is that a problem?

sadie - Antwort

I didn't need to remove the battery !! why would you take the battery away, the motor can be removed easily with the battery in place, and the whole process would take less than 2 minutes if you exclude the battery steps

Mohammed Fahmy - Antwort

I have trouble with the screw: I bought my used and now opened it for the first time. The screw is totally messed up, I can't unscrew it because the screwdriver doesn't fit in the screw/doesn't unscrew it. What can I do?

dfrisch86 - Antwort

Installed new battery without a problem. Now it does not hold a charge for more than 4 hours. Phone works fine but what did I do wrong?

Mary OBrien - Antwort

I was VERY careful but the interior philips screw holding the battery in place but it stripped immediately. I see others have had this problem. What do I do now?!

tbodington - Antwort

I've tried three different #000 drivers but they don't fit this screw. Stuck now. Also blows my confidence about proceeding because even if I do get this off.... I see some even smaller Phillips head screw further along in the process

Jake - Antwort

If the screw is not damaged by previous attempts, the screw driver should fit perfectly. You can also tap the screw with a small mass to unlock.

revher -

How can i get my battery out if the screw is broken?

tomasfernandez257 - Antwort

always record your repair on a camera

Hisham chohan - Antwort

I bought a Mmobiel branded replacement iphone 4 battery, but it doesn't fit – the pins on the connector are (very) slightly different in pitch to my original battery. Not sure if it's related to the fact that my original battery connector has two screws, and the replacement has one (like the photo in this guide).

Jamie Young - Antwort

Heble mit einem Plastic Opening Tool den Akkustecker aus seiner Buchse auf dem Logic Board.
  • Heble mit einem Plastic Opening Tool den Akkustecker aus seiner Buchse auf dem Logic Board.

    • Heble von oben und unter der Steckerhalterung - an den Seiten besteht fast kein Überhang, und dabei könntest du den Stecker beschädigen.

  • Heble vorsichtig nur an dem Akkustecker und nicht an der Buchse auf dem Logic Board. Wenn du an der Logic Board Buchse hebelst, kannst du den Anschluss irreparabel beschädigen.

  • Entferne den Metall-Clip, die den Antennenstecker bedeckt.

There is a small black L-shaped bracket of some sort that tits between the battery connector and the motherboard socket, with a loop on one corner that sits betwen the riserand the battery connector. Remove this now, and do not forget to re install it on assembly.

stevesontheroad - Antwort

When reattaching this bracket make sure your Battery ribbon is already tucked underneath the battery with only the minimum clearance required. Then make sure the brackets overhang is over the battery ribbon. Dont try to slide it under the Ribbon.

crimney - Antwort

In Step 5 be EXTRA careful with the battery connector as the socket can come off extremely easy. This can mess up the replacement a little bit and cost you extra. Otherwise, this guide is excellent.

Good luck, fixers!

I fix(ed) it!

mateuszkus - Antwort

When removing this L shaped piece, it should be shown ON CAMERA where it came from and the exact position it was in while in the phone, I had to take 2 screws (not 1 like said in the video) out to get to this piece and once that second screw came up I didn't get a chance to see where this piece came from because it popped right out. I was extremely nervous but I believe I got it back in properly.

kellicaudill - Antwort

Putting the antennae cover back in place is impossible without a good photo. I used this link to refer to:

Замена аккумулятора iPhone 4S

Ruth Kaldor - Antwort

Verwende die durchsichtige Kunststofflasche, um vorsichtig den Akku aus dem iPhone zu heben. Wenn die Ziehlasche reißt, bevor die Batterie entfernt werden kann, fahre vorsichtig mit einem Spudger unter die Batterie. An anderen Stellen zu hebeln könnte das Gerät beschädigen. Sollte dein Ersatzakku in einer Plastikhülle geliefert werden, entferne zuerst die Plastikhülle vom Akku, indem du die Hülle vom Flachbandkabel abziehst, und setze erst dann den Akku ein.
  • Verwende die durchsichtige Kunststofflasche, um vorsichtig den Akku aus dem iPhone zu heben.

  • Wenn die Ziehlasche reißt, bevor die Batterie entfernt werden kann, fahre vorsichtig mit einem Spudger unter die Batterie. An anderen Stellen zu hebeln könnte das Gerät beschädigen.

  • Sollte dein Ersatzakku in einer Plastikhülle geliefert werden, entferne zuerst die Plastikhülle vom Akku, indem du die Hülle vom Flachbandkabel abziehst, und setze erst dann den Akku ein.

  • Bevor du den Akkustecker wieder anschließt, stelle sicher, dass der Kontaktclip (in rot) korrekt neben dem Akkustecker positioniert ist.

  • Vor dem Wiederzusammenbau, gehe sicher, dass du alle metallenen Kontaktpunkte auf dem Druckkontakt genau wie der Kontaktpunkt auf der Rückplatte mit einem Fettlöser wie Windex reinigst. Die Öle an deinen Fingern können drahtlose Interferenzen verursachen.

  • Führe nach dem Wiederzusammenbau einen Hard Reset durch. Dies verhindert diverse Probleme und vereinfacht eventuell trotzdem notwendige Fehlersuche.

Just be careful when removing the battery with the plastic pull tab. On some units, they use so much glue that it's virtually impossible to take the battery.

In such an instance, you could use the iPod opening tool to assist (just be careful where you stick it!)

klubn - Antwort

use the iPod opening tool to pry gently under the battery from the outer edge of the phone and work towards the plastic tab. the tab is not actually attached to the battery itself, but a plastic sheet between the battery and inner frame. the adhesive on the battery tends to be under the edge of the battery nearest the center of the phone.

David Iwanicki - Antwort

Understand that the plastic pull tab is part of the phone. It sits under the battery like a tray and is not connected to the battery so it needs to stay in tact.

mattcfi - Antwort

once the iphone restarted, the battery was at 30%.

baldus - Antwort

This i think is the most diffucult part.

Because they use so much glue on it. I have to did this with so much force.

Glad that i didn't kill the circuit board when i took this out.

Shoung0690 - Antwort

My battery was so firmly glued in, it took a long time to slowly pry it loose. Patience is the key to this process. I could see easily damaging the circuit board by using too much force. The plastic tab did not help at all.

The ribbon cable attaching the new battery to the battery connector clip is longer than the original. I clicked the clip into the socket first and then was very careful to fold the excess while putting the battery back in so the ribbon cable didn't kink. One kink in this could sever the battery leads.

drathbun - Antwort

My ribbon cable was also longer than the original. How did you get it to not kink while placing the batter back into the phone? That seems to be my only hang up at the moment

cvbaseballsean22 -

Piece of cake! The hardest part was being sure the outer pentalobe screws were actually turning and I wasn't stripping them. Battery was glued firmly in, so I loosened it from the outside instead of using the plastic pull-tab. I pre-bent the battery connector neck before putting it back in and had no problems with it fitting in. Getting the battery connector aligned with the antenna piece underneath was a bit fiddly. Got the case back on, put in the new screws, and powered the phone on without problem. Had 40% charge, all seems well. Yippee!

chezbuttons - Antwort

Do NOT use a spudger or similar type of prising tool to try lift up the battery. Instead, just warm up the whole area with a hot air gun or hair drier to soften the glue.

The reason why I say don't use an implement to try lift the battery is because far too many times I've seen punctured & bent batteries come in to this workshop that have to be thrown out for safety reasons. It only takes a grain of sand, or a burr on the spudger and you're risking a potential cell rupture and potential fire.

Just use a bit of heat ( not a lot! ) to soften up the glue and it'll come away with the plastic pull tab.

Paul L Daniels - Antwort

These instructions don't mention putting the 2.5mm screw back in. I found this very challenging because it is so short, so very difficult to line it up to get it back in the hole, and very easy to drop it inside the phone. Take care.

robshopping - Antwort

Non problem with reassembly - just took patience - my is that the phone now does not want to charge the battery. It shows taht the battery is dead and charger needs to be connected but does not charge?

What have I not done coreectly - or at least what can I check to determine the problem?

Thanks

Richard Bebee - Antwort

Apparently it's not necessary to remove the battery, but try at least (I'm curious).

The battery was stuck (too much glue) and the plastic tab didn't help, and I ripped it...

So I use the plastic opening tool on the other side to remove really gently the battery, it was really really stucked with the glue... Now I'll know when I'll need to change it.

I put a little piece of tape to repair the plastic tab for the next time.

For the other part of the guide, it was a piece of cake and I'm a bad bad handyman :)

Thanks for the guide!

tasseb - Antwort

You are right. This is the reason why their is simpler guide: iPhone 4 Battery disconnection to be used when there is no necessity for removing the battery. Disconnection is sufficient for many fixes except replacement of the battery!

revher -

you have to remove the battery for digitizer replacement, however i would suggest removing it at the very last stage, i.e. step 24. cause it is easier to remove without the logic board being there

Winnie Lee -

Adhesive was holding battery VERY firmly, so during this step I used a hair blow dryer on low setting to carefully heat up the device. Then used the plastic tool to gently but firmly pry up one place on each edge. At first it felt like barely anything was happening, but within a few tries the adhesive gave away easily and the battery came right out.

misc - Antwort

The new battery from iFixit already had the cable properly folded, but before inserting the battery I used the plastic tool to press the fold closer to the battery body.

misc - Antwort

Before inserting the battery I put the contact clip into position. It has a hooked shape on one side which fits between the socket and the folded battery cable. If you try to position it AFTER the battery is installed the whole process is much more difficult. I used a tweezers to hold it in place while inserting the battery.

misc - Antwort

When inserting the battery I started by guiding the folded cable into position against the side of the contact clip, then proceeded to lay the battery in position. This made it very easy to have all parts in their original positions -- no need to fiddle with the battery cable or contact clip afterwards.

misc - Antwort

When pressing the battery connector into the socket, the first time I pressed from bottom to top. That didn't work because there is a little tab at the top of the connector which must fit into a tiny notch or else the connector won't lay flat properly. Pressing the connector from top to bottom worked easily.

misc - Antwort

Needle-nosed tweezers were very helpful when lining up the screws. After everything was reassembled I tried powering up the device, but the battery had insufficient charge. I plugged it in and immediately the screen displayed a battery with a thin red line (illustrating no charge). After 25 minutes the device sprang to life and indicated a 10% charge. At 70 minutes the battery indicated 30% charge, and at that rate should be fully charged in under 4 hours. It's fixed!!

misc - Antwort

Battery is in, phone fires up, charger works. This is the first 10 minute job I've ever completed in 10 minutes, thank you!

arkay - Antwort

Why they didn't say this, I have no idea: HEAT UP THE BACK OF THE PHONE! This helps the adhesive give so much easier, worth the extra 2 minutes to make sure you don't tear anything.

Addison Rasmussen - Antwort

super easy, battery had plenty of glue for what ever reason, I put the screw in 1st then set the battery and was easy to set the new battery. Charge was at 94% strange seeing it next to my Iphone 6 but glad I did it as now I can use it for music and save the battery on the main phone. Thanks for a easy instruction guide.

Greg Wischmeyer - Antwort

ok new problem, drained battery as instructed, pugged it in and nothing 3 different cords and also my car charger were tried, nothing worked removed battery and checked contacts a few times still nothing, any ideas? thanks

Greg Wischmeyer - Antwort

Strictly speaking re-assembly is NOT the exact reverse of dismantling. In particular do not put the battery in and then try to plug in the connector, Rather, start by plugging in the connector (having straightened the ribbon-wire attaching it to the battery) and only then re=position the battery on its (gluey) base. Also I used a wooden cocktail stick to position the antenna connector correctly (pushing the stick through the hole in the antenna piece and into the threaded base where the screw will eventually go) and then I held it all in place (temporarily) with a tiny blob of Bluetac until I managed to successfully withdraw the cocktail stick and fit the proper screw.

Stuey 25/2/2018

Stuart - Antwort

Verwende ein SIM Card Eject Tool oder eine Büroklammer, um die SIM Karte und ihr Fach auszuwerfen. Dies kann einiges an Kraft abverlangen.
  • Verwende ein SIM Card Eject Tool oder eine Büroklammer, um die SIM Karte und ihr Fach auszuwerfen.

  • Dies kann einiges an Kraft abverlangen.

  • Entferne die SIM Karte und ihr Fach.

The grey cable on the top right of the 1st picture might be confusing, it's the connector with cable which you'll disconnect in step 9 only, so you can't see it this way in this phase.

mhejjas - Antwort

Entferne die folgenden zwei Schrauben: Eine 1,2 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube
  • Entferne die folgenden zwei Schrauben:

    • Eine 1,2 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube

    • Eine 1,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube

  • Entferne die dünne Stahlabdeckung des Dock Anschluss Kabels vom iPhone.

  • Vor dem Wiederzusammenbau, gehe sicher, dass du alle metallischen Kontakte an der Abdeckung des Dock Anschluss Kabels mit einem Entfetter reinigst. Die Öle ann deinen Fingern können drahtlose Interferenzen verursachen.

Be careful to make sure you don't pinch the clear plastic tab under the mobo when reinstalling. :P

jonathan - Antwort

Box 3 BOx 3 Box 3 petite vis a gauche

bigben8 - Antwort

I had trouble with my SIM card at this point. It wouldn't go all the way in - only about 1mm short but enough to keep the phone from being able to read it. It seems that the red screw in this step is the culprit. I loosened it up a bit and the SIM card tray was able to fit flush.

budgetbooksfl - Antwort

Verwende ein iPod Opening Tool, um den Dock Kabelanschluss an beiden kurzen Seiten des Anschlusses vom Logic Board hochzuhebeln. Verwende ein iPod Opening Tool, um den Dock Kabelanschluss an beiden kurzen Seiten des Anschlusses vom Logic Board hochzuhebeln.
  • Verwende ein iPod Opening Tool, um den Dock Kabelanschluss an beiden kurzen Seiten des Anschlusses vom Logic Board hochzuhebeln.

Use the 1.6mm screw standoff as leverage against to lift the connector.

Mark - Antwort

Make sure not to pry too much under the flex cable because you will likely damage the gold / silver shining adhesive tape that is located beneath it.

The guide is missing a comment on this and one would not expect the tape there. Check out the photos of step 10 to get an idea of how the tape looks like.

I assume this to be some kind of head-conductive component.

It won't be much of a problem if you damage parts of it though.

But if you peel off / coil up too much of it, it could get too big and the flex cable could get damaged when it's pressed against it.

Stefan - Antwort

Löse das Dock-Flachbandkabel vorsichtig vom Logic Board und dem unteren Lautsprechergehäuse. Vermeide übermäßigen Kraftaufwand beim Entfernen des Dock-Flachbandkabel vom Logic Board. Andernfalls kann das Kabel reißen.
  • Löse das Dock-Flachbandkabel vorsichtig vom Logic Board und dem unteren Lautsprechergehäuse.

  • Vermeide übermäßigen Kraftaufwand beim Entfernen des Dock-Flachbandkabel vom Logic Board. Andernfalls kann das Kabel reißen.

be extremely careful to check that there isnt any metallic conductive glue sticking, some may remain attached to the motherboard-connecter position in its space on top of the logicboard

Dai - Antwort

So if that glue does stick to the 'motherboard', does it damage the phone?

Dalton - Antwort

This is held down by adhesive, don't try to just yank it off. Peel it slowly. If you damage this cable, you are slightly screwed.

Addison Rasmussen - Antwort

Peel back NOT off. It needs to just pull aside. If it comes off, throw the phone.

Rhys Thomas - Antwort

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Heble den unteren Antennenanschluss mit einem Plastic Opening Tool aus seiner Buchse auf dem Logic Board.
  • Heble den unteren Antennenanschluss mit einem Plastic Opening Tool aus seiner Buchse auf dem Logic Board.

NOTE: When replacing the logic board, be sure this antenna remains exposed and doesn't become trapped under the board.

charlesholt - Antwort

Just wondering if it is possible and where to get one of those indicators

edward - Antwort

what are you talking about here???

Steven Munoz - Antwort

Yeah, would like to know the value of the little blue inductor ... my iPhone 4 doesn't have it any more and I have the worst signal.

PressureFM - Antwort

I wasn't sure how to carefully detach the antennae. Can anyone offer some insight on how to reattach the antennae? Is it supposed to be soldered to the board? Or is it a pin attachment?

kulpsterdaman - Antwort

see that tiny little blue thing just to the left of the antenna connector but before the screw? make sure you DON'T knock that out of place otherwise your iphone becomes a heavy ipod touch (yes. this idiot made that mistake while struggling to get the antenna connector back in - which for the record just clips back in). this would have been a handy tip for me while i was reading the instructions, which apart from that little trinket of information, were very easy to follow.

-dan

dan - Antwort

Entferne die 1,9 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, mit der die Unterseite des Logic Boards am inneren Gehäuse befestigt ist.
  • Entferne die 1,9 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, mit der die Unterseite des Logic Boards am inneren Gehäuse befestigt ist.

Be careful, I almost damaged this specific screw by using a Phillips #00 screwdriver. It's screwed in tighter than most others. You will need a Phillips #000 or else your #00 has to be a really sharp one.

Kelvin Leong - Antwort

The cross on top of the screw on my phone is all messed up - not from me stripping it, it just looks like a manufacturing error. The screwdriver won't even fit into the screw, and I can't get it out (I have no idea how they got it in in the first place). Any suggestions?

Mike Machado - Antwort

same here, screw stripped any suggestions?

Gary Woodward -

Couple of ways to get rounded-out-head screws;

1) use a tiny drop of super glue on the top place your screwdriver on the drop/screw, then sprinkle a bit of bicarb-soda on to the wet super glue, it'll harden very rapidly and form a fillet; wait a minute and you should be able to then unscrew the screw.

Be VERY CAREFUL when doing this, because you don't want to have superglue wicking between the screw and the circuit board.

Perhaps practice on some other things first.

I've removed several like this before; frequently I find the culprits for rounded out slots are ham-fisted people trying to do their own repairs in the past.

Paul L Daniels - Antwort

Get a set of these precision screw extractors. I own a small electronics repair shop and I wouldn't be without them. If you buy them remember that the ends are reversible in case you dull one end. http://www.ifixit.com/Tools/Precision-Sc...

Joshua - Antwort

Entferne die folgenden fünf Schrauben, mit denen die Wi-Fi Antenne am Logic Board befestigt ist:
  • Entferne die folgenden fünf Schrauben, mit denen die Wi-Fi Antenne am Logic Board befestigt ist:

    • Eine 2,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube

    • Zwei 1,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben

    • Eine 1,4 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube

    • Eine 4,8 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube

  • Beim Wiederzusammenbau, drehe zuerst die 4,8 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube wieder ein, dann die 2,3 mm Schraube. Dadurch wird vermieden, dass sich alles vermischt und LCD und Digitizer unbrauchbar werden.

  • Stelle außerdem sicher, dass du die lange 4,8 mm Schraube beim Wiederzusammenbau richtig einsetzt. Sie ist möglicherweise der Grund, wenn du schlechten Wi-Fi Empfang nach dem Wiederzusammenbau hast.

Be careful about the very small spring contact that is under the shield and around the 4.8 mm screw - it can spring out when the shield is removed. It must be reinserted prior to installing the shield, with the thick part up and the spring in contact with the gold pad to the right of the screw hole in the case.

Steve Noland - Antwort

INCREDIBLE! Steve this probably happens to people all the time. The "very small spring contact that is under the shield and around the 4.8 mm screw" I will elaborate on. It's not so much around the 4.8mm screw as it actually part of the assembly where the 4.8 mm screw is tightened. I added an arrow to this picture to visually illustrate:

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/9/i...

I had no wifi at all until this was present. I had overlooked the piece and spent hours trying to figure out where it went. BIG THANK YOU to Steve for his comment. After fixing, my wifi was perfect.

Jimmy -

When re-assembling, start off with replacing the 4.8 mm Philips screw first, then the 2.3 mm. This is to ensure there is no mix-up, and avoid rendering the LCD and digitizer useless. Steve or someone -- can you explain what is meant by this? My LCD and digitizer now does not work, but I don't think I have any screws in the wrong place.

david -

I have the same issue than David. Could anyone elaborate on the brief note in the manual? Thank you!

Christoph Biehl -

Thanks for your notice! It really helps me.

antonvbondarev -

There is a washer under the plate that is held together by the 1.4mm Philips. This might come loose. Be careful not to lose it.

nsolis - Antwort

Confirming this. It's not in the description and it came out when I disconnected the screw. At first I was unsure where it came from, but when I reassembled the phone, the yellow screw didn't make contact, so I realized the washer had to go under the contact plate.

marcx77 -

So that small washer behind the 1.4 screw became detached during reassembly. What affect does this have? My phOne started to overheat; I then turned off my wifi and things are fine.. How is this related you think?

mallorypichler -

If a nut under the YELLOW screw is rotating, hold the nut with tweezers.

yujin yamada - Antwort

Somehow i twisted the head off of the 4.8mm screw (ground) during reassembly and not i have terrible wifi. Trying to come up with a solution.... any suggestions?

racaruso90 - Antwort

On my phone the "washer" that the 1.4mm screw goes into I think is actually the mounting post that had come detached. I realize afterwards there was therefore no point removing this screw, but I did remove (and put it back afterwards) by holding onto the loose post/washer with tweezers to prevent it turning.

Anthony Berkow - Antwort

Print this image out (step 13) - trust me, you'll need it later!

Alan Shenton - Antwort

The "washer" that a few of the commenters have mentioned isn't a washer nor a broken post. It is a circular nut that helps the WiFi antenna get a good connection to the logic board. It is part of a sandwich: 1.4mm screw head WiFi antenna logic board ++ circular nut. I held it in place with tweezers and then screwed the 1.4mm screw in. Don't lose this nut!

tdroz - Antwort

I found that the 1.4 mm screw measured a little less than 1.1 mm on my phone. So don't be confused by that.

Daniel - Antwort

When I came to reassemble at this step, I noticed the 1.4mm screw no longer had anything to screw to. The nut or washer or whatever it is that you mention has gone. My screen does not work any more. Is this connected and/or is there anything I can do to peplace what is lost?

Chris - Antwort

This screw is supposed to tie into a very small nut that sits under a small u-shaped tab in the EMI shield that is fixed to the PCB. Maybe that nut has moved or got lost. I recommend you to lift that small tab to find it because if loose it could create a short-circuit.

But that screw/nut is absolutely not essential to the LCD. It should work without it.

Christophe De Wolf -

I didn't see that small "nut" and the 1.4mm screw is loose. So I didn't install it back. My iPhone is working now but wondering any thing would turn wrong later...

Judy - Antwort

Does any one know where to source a replacement for the little round "nut" trapped between shield and nut. I have lost mine... the yellow 1.4mm screw fits into this... it has a knurled edge.

It seems it should be captive soldered to the MB, but it comes lose...

franklydude - Antwort

Do you need a different screwdriver for every one of these screws? They all seem to have different sizes.

Kaz - Antwort

The second of the Two 1.6 mm Phillips was stripped...or I stripped it? So I got this far and now i'm retreating and putting the iphone back together. Was going to sell on ebay but now I can not. Oh well...

brian - Antwort

I used an elastic band pulled taught over the blade of a flat headed screwdriver to hold the nut (beneath the yellow screw) in place. Alternatively I was thinking of carving the eraser on the end of a pencil into a wedge shape to do the same job when tightening the screw on reassembly. Just needs something to grip it in place to stop it spinning.

Lee Noble - Antwort

A note about screw management: ALWAYS remove screws from left to right if you are just putting them in order of removal on a magnetic trey, it helps with re-assembly. If you can, I recommend getting a magnetic white board and writing the size of the screws on it and categorizing by that, it makes it way easier and you won't ever have to worry about putting the wrong size screw in anywhere ever again.

Addison Rasmussen - Antwort

the nut of the yellow screw falls be careful ...to re install it again

Hisham chohan - Antwort

Verwende ein iPod Opening Tool, um die Oberseite der Wi-Fi Antenne vom Logic Board wegzuheben. Ziehe mit einem Spudger die Wi-Fi Rückhalte-Clips vom inneren Rahmen weg. Entferne die Wi-Fi Antenne vom iPhone. Stelle sicher, dass du die Metallclips oben auf der Abdeckung, wo die 4,8mm Schrauben sitzt, nicht verlierst,  oder die 4,8 mm Schraube selbst. Probleme mit dieser Schraube sind der häufigste Grund für eine schlechte Wi-Fi Leistung nach dem Wiederzusammenbau.
  • Verwende ein iPod Opening Tool, um die Oberseite der Wi-Fi Antenne vom Logic Board wegzuheben.

  • Ziehe mit einem Spudger die Wi-Fi Rückhalte-Clips vom inneren Rahmen weg.

  • Entferne die Wi-Fi Antenne vom iPhone. Stelle sicher, dass du die Metallclips oben auf der Abdeckung, wo die 4,8mm Schrauben sitzt, nicht verlierst, oder die 4,8 mm Schraube selbst. Probleme mit dieser Schraube sind der häufigste Grund für eine schlechte Wi-Fi Leistung nach dem Wiederzusammenbau.

  • Before reassembly, be sure to clean all metal-to-metal contact points on the dock connector cable cover with a de-greaser such as windex. The oils on your fingers have the potential to cause wireless interference issues. Reinige nicht die Anschlüsse selbst mit dem Entfetter.

watch for the connector cover here - it tends to be quite "springy" and may fly towards you when you attempt to release the clips

David Iwanicki - Antwort

What do these metal clips look like?

ryanporter - Antwort

Be Careful of a tiny metal piece attached to the black bit on top that acts as the screw spot for the blue screw. I just slid it back on. Hopefully no harm done.

crimney - Antwort

do you have a photo or description?

David Holmes -

The clip actually looks like it might be a ground. it's gold and is folded in two. There's a screw cutout and something that looks like it physically is supposed to touch something. Phone works fine without it, though.

stores - Antwort

So as I'm prying the plate off a tiny little nut falls out. I've repaired 4 iPhone 4s now and this is the first time this has happened. Anyone know where exactly it goes? I'd upload a pic, but this forum doesn't support images I see. I'm pretty sure it goes to the long bolt at top center, but where in the stack it goes I'm not certain.

powers74 - Antwort

It's probably the nut for the yellow screw of step 13. It sometimes comes off the motherboard, with no adverse effects. Just put it back, under the small u-shaped metal shielding

Christophe De Wolf -

Yes, that belongs to the yellow screw and is (badly) glued to the motherboard. You'll need very thin pliers to place and fix the nut while reassembling.

mcbohdo -

Can this be cleaned with isopropyl alcohol?

Jimfixer - Antwort

I left this part out, and my phone still functions properly in every way I can see. I have proper wifi, cell service, flashlight, both cameras work, vibration works, and speakers work. What is the function of this piece?

Luke Taylor - Antwort

Hebe die Rückkamera Anschluss mit einem iPod Opening Tool aus seiner Buchse auf dem Logic Board. Entferne die Rückkamera.
  • Hebe die Rückkamera Anschluss mit einem iPod Opening Tool aus seiner Buchse auf dem Logic Board.

  • Entferne die Rückkamera.

the rear camera has an extra long tab which runs under the digitizer cable - be careful not to bend this while removing the camera.

David Iwanicki - Antwort

To avoid damaging the Main Camera, it will probably be better to do Step 18 first before doing this step. This is because part of the camera is actually under the Digitizer and LCD cable.

nsolis - Antwort

Took me a few tries to get the camera seated properly - if it's not seated correctly, you'll have problems attaching the WiFi antenna. Should sit flat and square.

rolfsf - Antwort

Just to clarify, the little tab on the side of the camera does not go under the motherboard, it goes under the cables. This misunderstanding is common for those new to mobile repair. Always make sure you take notes on the small things like this!

Addison Rasmussen - Antwort

Entfernen den kleinen runden weißen Sticker (Garantie-Aufkleber und Wasserstandsanzeiger), welcher die Schraube neben der Akkuziehlasche liegt. Entferne die 2,4 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, die unter dem Sticker versteckt war.
  • Entfernen den kleinen runden weißen Sticker (Garantie-Aufkleber und Wasserstandsanzeiger), welcher die Schraube neben der Akkuziehlasche liegt.

  • Entferne die 2,4 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, die unter dem Sticker versteckt war.

There was no screw underneath the warranty sticker or even a place for a screw. Disappointed.

Ed Wiliams - Antwort

I removed by accident the other white sticker on the logic board. What happens now? Will the phone work?

Vit Rozehnal - Antwort

It won't hurt anything.

Joshua -

I have a big Problem with this screw, it seems that it is more stuck and weaker than the other screws. Now the Phillips screw is totally !@#$%^ up after several attempts of trying to get it out, do you have any idea how i can get it out?

Peter - Antwort

Danger! Since the last screw I took out before is the 4.8 mm (step 13) it can happen that one messes up the order and uses this one instead of the 2.4 mm! This will break the new Display again. I'd add a distinct warnig here to use the right (short) one.

Now I'll a order a new display...

Eric Lehmann - Antwort

I agree with Ed Williams: no screw under the sticker on my phone.

jamminactor - Antwort

Step 16 is very simple but unfortunately, the screw spins and spins but can not remove. It is still tightly in place. What is causing the screw to spin and spin. I have this bad feeling that is may be broken inside. Any advice

Anastasia Weigle - Antwort

Removing this is the end of your warranty. If you have any second thoughts on this repair, turn back before this step.

Addison Rasmussen - Antwort

Heble mit einem Plastic Opening Tool die folgenden Anschlüsse nach oben und aus ihren Buchsen auf dem Logic Board:
  • Heble mit einem Plastic Opening Tool die folgenden Anschlüsse nach oben und aus ihren Buchsen auf dem Logic Board:

    • Digitizer Kabel (heble von unten)

    • LCD Kabel (heble von unten)

    • Kopfhörerbuchse/Lautsprecherreglerkabel (heble von oben)

    • Oberes Mikro/Sleep Button Kabel (heble von oben)

    • Frontkamerakabel (heble von oben)

What are these types of connectors called? anyone know where to order just the connectors? or even better would be extension cables

Chris - Antwort

blue, green and yellow down, orange and red up. red BEFORE orange, as part of the ribbon is UNDER red.

unklbyl

unklbyl - Antwort

Windex didn't work well for me for degreasing the connections. It made the connections worse in fact. Now my digitizer AND my screen don't work.

johnpetraborg - Antwort

It seems that you misunderstood the notes throughout the guide. You should only clean metal to metal contact points, such as the contact area between the EMI fingers and the metal case on the speaker enclosure. Applying Windex in connectors or sockets of any type will almost certainly destroy components in your phone.

Andrew Bookholt -

when i was replacing the logic board a small gold piece came off. It is above the top left corner of the orange box for the LCD cable. What is it for?

romaine - Antwort

If you are replacing any of the cables that connect here, be sure to save the foam from the top of the connector to put on your replacement part. It helps secure the connector once the connector cover is put back during reassembly.

Blarg - Antwort

When re-plugging the yellow connector (the leftmost of the 3 connectors that you disconnected from the top) put the cables behind and not before the metal part with a hole where the EMI Shield 2 clips in. Otherwise you will not be able do step 13.

Philippe Leledy - Antwort

Be carefull of a very small component soldered near the yellow connector. It can pop off and make your front camera irresponsive.

Christophe De Wolf - Antwort

When reassembling, the various connectors have a leading plastic lip that allows you to align and then slowly snap in place. i pushed on the pads on top of the connectors with the flat tool provided in the kit. Also, the first time, i did not press the LCD cable very well, so the phone was working, but no display showing. once i snapped this in place the second time, it worked like a charm.

hansiemys - Antwort

After reassembly, when I changed to the front camera, the display got stuck in shutter mode. The website bellow suggests I lost a microscopic jumper that enables the front camera. I am guessing this happened when I disconnected the 3 connectors. The dang jumper is so small I never even noticed that I lost it. Oh well at least the rear camera still works... After replacing screen camera app now stuck on shutter?

Slobird - Antwort

I ran into a not workin front camera after a screen replacement on Iphone4. I found out that I had broken the tiny jumper on the main board when I pried off the headphone plug. That jumper is next to the right upper corner of the headphone/volume button plug (yellow marked in step 17 of relacement guide), you can see it in the picture as two silvery dots. If your prying tool sits on that jumper when levelling the plug off, it is history. I took a ampoule of conducting silver liquid, but instead of shaking it I took some of the sediment out with a thin wire and aplied a tiny blob over the two remaining soldering pads left. And alas, it worked ! Front camera is ok again. Thanks to those who found out about that jumper.

dl7utx - Antwort

On reassembly, be really careful when reattaching the digitizer cable - the cable breaks very easily, rendering your nice new display useless. In my case, I must not have threaded the cable through properly, so it was just a bit too short to reach the connector. I gave it a gentle tug... and snap!

I was much more careful the second time through :(

rolfsf - Antwort

did you have to buy a whole new display?

same thing just happened to me:((((

mstutz12 -

What is the correct length of flex (ribbon) cable for the Digitizer cable and the LCD cable? I've threaded the cables correctly through the mid frame, however, I keep encountering the same issue. Once I've tried seating the cables into the sockets, the Digitizer cable is too short by approximately 5mm. I've tried several different makes of the front panel display (front screen replacement) but have encountered the same problem with each and the supplier, stating each have been 'defective units'. It just feels a stretch to believe I've been unlucky in purchasing 4 that have all been defective. I can't check these against the original (Apple) screen, as it was too damaged and the removal process of these iPhone 4 screens is a nightmare. Any help is appreciated

Naborro - Antwort

Feeding those ribbon cables through the frame is one of the trickier parts of this repair. Check Step 30 of the Display Assembly Replacement Guide for detailed instructions. If you check the comments, you'll find a lot of others have struggled with this—but it can be done! :)

Jeff Suovanen -

My setup was nothing like this. The headphone jack, top microphone, and front camera connections were not in these locations. Rather, they were on the logic board below the main camera connection. Furthermore, the logic board was held in place by a Phillips head screw that was hidden under a small black piece of tape. This screw also held the small gold connector tab. Additionally, the bottom of the logic board was held in place by a Phillips head screw.

Tom Murphy - Antwort

Sounds to me like you have an iPhone 4S. This guide is for the iPhone 4. ;)

Jeff Suovanen -

Verwende einen kleinen Flachkopf-Schraubenzieher, um den 4,8 Abstandshalter neben der Kopfhörerbuchse zu entfernen.
  • Verwende einen kleinen Flachkopf-Schraubenzieher, um den 4,8 Abstandshalter neben der Kopfhörerbuchse zu entfernen.

  • Beim Wiederzusammenbau richtet sich die Höhe des Wi-Fi Schirms, der in Schritt 13 entfernt wird, nach diesem Abstandshalter. Wenn er nicht festgezogen ist, wird der Schirm über der Abdeckung des Rahmens sitzen und das Rückteil wird in Schritt 2 nicht zurück an seinen Platz gleiten. Der Schirm sollte bündig mit der Kopfhörerbuchse liegen.

  • Achte beim Wiederzusammenbau des Motherboards darauf, dass dessen Kante unter dem runden Abstandshalter sitzt. Andernfalls werden die Schrauben nicht passen.

  • Achte beim Wiederzusammenbau außerdem darauf, dass das Distanzgummi oben auf dem Motherboard richtig passt. Ohne dieses Teil könnte das Motherboard das Flachbandkabel außenherum beschädigen.

There is a small rectangular rubber bumper on the top of the logic board. You can see it a little at the top of the picture. I knocked mine off and had no idea where it came from! Took my wife forever searching the pictures to locate where it was from.

nickbits - Antwort

Take care to put the small ruber piece into place to protect the ribon cable for the lcd dyplay

Hanspeter - Antwort

The smallest screw below the Digitizer connector is held by a tiny nut which is fixed below the EMI shield. Beware because this thing can get loose easily.

mcbohdo - Antwort

I believe that's the one he's referring to...

Joshua -

The screw anchor/stud came loose on me as well... How did you repair it? If you left it broke did it effect anything?

iyacyas -

Thank you Rajan for this picture. The rubber piece fell out and i was frantically trying to find its spot.

hansiemys -

Yes! Thanks for this pic! I found this little piece in the body of the phone after I removed the logic board and was stumped! Real lifesaver!

Joshua -

how do i remove the 4.8 mm stand off? ifixit instructions arent detailed enough.

Austin - Antwort

I have found that the easiest way to remove these standoffs is to loosen them with a 2.0 or 2.3 mm standard (flat) blade driver bit. Then, once it is loose, you can either loosen it the rest of the way, or for better control, insert your pentalobe driver into the center of it and loosen it the rest of the way. If your pentalobe driver won't turn it, then it is not loose enough, or the end of one of the small screws has broken off in it (actually fairly common).

Best of luck to you! Just ask if you need more info!

Joshua -

When reassembling, ensure the ribbon cables for the connector are between the silver metal and the circuit board. the wifi antenna plate clips into the silver metal.

Victor - Antwort

there are several versions of what appears to be the iphone 4S. It has more screws and a hidden 4.8mm flathead at the top close to where the exposed one was in this step. I rendered my iphone useless not knowing this. If you have this version, stop, put everything back and bring it to a professional, or you will find about 6 or 8 extra pieces that are not covered in these instructions and a broken phone as well.

Wesley French - Antwort

Wesley, this is the guide for the iPhone 4, not the 4S. The two are distinctly different.

There's no multiple-variants of either model to best of my knowledge (having repaired hundreds of both the 4 and 4S)

Paul L Daniels -

Entferne das Logic Board vorsichtig vom iPhone und achte dabei auf Kabel, die im Weg sein könnten.
  • Entferne das Logic Board vorsichtig vom iPhone und achte dabei auf Kabel, die im Weg sein könnten.

    • Achte darauf, die kleine goldene Zinke (gekennzeichnet in Rot, fast ganz oben) nicht zu beschädigen, da sie sehr empfindlich ist.

  • Achte beim Wiederzusammenbau darauf, dass du das untere Antennenkabel nicht unter dem Logic Board einklemmst.

Note where the little rubber thing is. It's there to protect the digitizer and LCD ribbons curving over the top of the mobo. If you do these a lot, you're going to have a WTF moment when you go to put it back together and you have this short rubber strip....

jonathan - Antwort

where can i buy logic board from the iPhone

jamie - Antwort

be careful when putting the logic board back in: i trapped the lower antenna cable under it (see step 11). Also, it 'hooks in' at the top and rotates down; there is a notch cut into the outer case to capture the top of the motherboard.

awr - Antwort

Missing rubber guard can causing touchscreen sensitivity & accuracy problem.

Otniel Yoreiza - Antwort

Do not forget the rubber piece. When replacing my home button, I noticed this rubber piece fall out of the phone, and couldn't figure out where it went. I left it out, and my touchscreen had all sorts of problem. I thought I had damaged the digitizer ribbon. I even bought a new screen and had similar problems after putting that in. I finally put a makeshift piece of rubber that I cut up into the spot where this rubber piece had gone, and currently haven't had problems for over a week. This rubber piece must suppress interference problems of some kind.

dreyna - Antwort

Great point! I had the logic board put back in and then found this little thing hanging out. I found a "tip" on a different site that showed it going between the rear-facing camera and the logic board! Thanks!

Joshua -

Can we get a better photo of where rubber piece goes? Mine fell off, and I have no idea where to put it back on to.

csuslog - Antwort

It goes on the edge of the logic board where the Digitizer and LCD Panel ribbon cables bend over the Logic Board before they plug into it. The rubber piece protects the ribbon cables from chafing like a bumper and from interferance.

fasthans -

You can see it on the upper left of the Logic Board, just to the right of the camera in the photo for Step 18. It is easier to see if you click on the view huge link to blow up the photo.

fasthans -

Note that when re-installing the logic board, do not forget about the antenna connector near the bottom of the phone. Make sure that it does not get trapped under the logic board when you are placing the logic board in the case.

Scott - Antwort

Ear piece metal connectors: You can see them on step 22. If those are not bent up enough (laying flat) you won't have contact with the logic board... and no more audio from the ear piece. This is what happened to me. I had to unmount it again to bend them and hop the ear piece worked again!

chuvux - Antwort

This was a very tricky part. Just make sure that you don't put pressure on the login board to get it into place, take your time and ease it in. There will be a bit of spring in it when you push down which is a combination of the folded LCD and Digitizer Ribbon Cables and the two copper contacts underneath.

gregjames - Antwort

This was absolutely the hardest part - had to do it over many times. The digitizer ribbon cable kept insisting on folding up under the logic board. Tip: do not let the cable fold up, even it that's how it naturally wants to go, it will be too short.

Julian Boilen - Antwort

My small gold prong fell off, what do I do now?

Eric - Antwort

Mine did too but I don't notice anything wrong yet???

C Khripin -

hi, the small gold prong (step 19) in my phone is fragile what should i do? what function from that small gold prong? thank you

Syekh Sulthan R - Antwort

I found it easier to do step 19 after removing the screw (step 20)

Uffe L - Antwort

Löse die dünne Stahl-Frontkamerahalterung mit der Kante eines Plastiköffnungswerkzeugs von der Frontkamera. Entferne die Frontkamerahalterung.
  • Löse die dünne Stahl-Frontkamerahalterung mit der Kante eines Plastiköffnungswerkzeugs von der Frontkamera.

  • Entferne die Frontkamerahalterung.

  • Positioniere beim Zusammenbau die Rasten der Clips ausserhalb der dazugehörigen Metallkerben.

I found it easier to remove the camera after removing the headphone jack. The right side of the retainer was refusing to come off.

Patricia Z - Antwort

Can someone please explain why you take the front camera out? It is on the opposite side of the power button, and not in the way. Am I missing something?

Anthony - Antwort

My screen is kaing really funny lines now and the phone doesnt come on. I dont know if i out the little gold thingy back correctly though, need help please!!!

Wesley Barnes - Antwort

I had funny lines aswell.

I think I had a minor case of them because:

- they only occured int the OS(lock screen, home screen, apps were fine(apart from some keyboards))

- only in the horizontal pixels in the lines with text in them were darker

- int went away after two days (pretty much non-stop on the power-line)

Sebastian -

Hebe die Frontkamera vorsichtig aus dem iPhone.
  • Hebe die Frontkamera vorsichtig aus dem iPhone.

  • Es kann hilfreich sein, zum Wiedereinsetzen der Frontkamerahalterung eine Pinzette zu benutzen.

This step is completely unnecessary- you don't need to remove the camera if you need to install the headphone jack part. The cables don't even overlap.

Daniel Maloney - Antwort

Agreed, this step is not necessary, please remove it from the tutorial!

Arthur - Antwort

I agree, steps 20 and 21 are completely useless. In fact I found it hard to remove the metal cover, so just skipped it, seeing that it shouldn't affect the button. And it didn't. I also think these steps should be removed not to cause the confusion.

Daria - Antwort

Yes the camera does not need to be taken out. It can stay in. Removing the metal camera clip is a pain. This is the step that took me the longest and would have saved me an hour if I didn't have to do it. If you do take the clip off and take the camera out can you put a higher resolution camera in? Anyway when putting the clip back the clip arms/legs go on the outside of the receiving metal slots-NOT ON THE INSIDE. I tried too long to get them to clip on the inside thinking I was doing something wrong.

hubafrost - Antwort

Hello, a really pain to replace the front camera retainer. Can you confirm the climb arms go inside of the receiving metal slots? Which tool can I use to easy the operation?

unlockeur - Antwort

I found this explanation about how to reattach the f**g clip: "I normally use a pair of tweezers. Start with the right side first, then the bottom and then the top. You have to make sure the retainer clips go on the outside of the points where they attach. But you are right, this is a very difficult thing to get back in to place."

Source: How to put back on front camera retainer?

annakilian - Antwort

Entferne die folgenden zwei Kreuzschlitzschrauben, welche den Vibrationsmotor am inneren Rahmen befestigen: Eine 6 mm Schraube
  • Entferne die folgenden zwei Kreuzschlitzschrauben, welche den Vibrationsmotor am inneren Rahmen befestigen:

    • Eine 6 mm Schraube

    • Eine 1,4 mm Schraube

  • Entferne den Vibrationsmotor vom inneren Gehäuse.

After reassembly the vibrator did not work. Fortunately it can be replaced simply by removing the back cover and going directly to this step. I suspect it just wasn't seated properly or the long screw was not in far enough. After refitting it is working.

Anthony Berkow - Antwort

When reinstalling the vibrator, make sure the headphone socket is on straight, otherwise the headphone doesn't fit in properly.

Martin Ashby - Antwort

Ziehe das kleine Stückchen schwarzen Klebebands mit der Kante eines Plastiköffnungswerkzeugs von der Rückseite der Halterung der Lautstärketaste ab. Fange mit dem Abziehen des Bands von der Seite nahe der Oberkante des Smartphones an.
  • Ziehe das kleine Stückchen schwarzen Klebebands mit der Kante eines Plastiköffnungswerkzeugs von der Rückseite der Halterung der Lautstärketaste ab.

  • Fange mit dem Abziehen des Bands von der Seite nahe der Oberkante des Smartphones an.

  • Entferne vorsichtig das letzte Stück Klebeband vom kleinen Abschnitt des Flachbandkabels nahe der Innenseite der unteren Lautstärkeregeltaste.

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Entferne die fünf Kreuzschlitzschrauben, welche die Halterungen der Stummtaste und der Lautstärkeregelung am äußeren Gehäuse befestigen.
  • Entferne die fünf Kreuzschlitzschrauben, welche die Halterungen der Stummtaste und der Lautstärkeregelung am äußeren Gehäuse befestigen.

  • Die Schraube direkt unter der Stummtaste ist kürzer als die anderen.

  • Die linke Schraube, welcher die Halterung der Lautstärkeregelung befestigt, ist länger als die restlichen.

The 2nd screw from the left (as pictured) is smaller than the other four. When removing, pay close attention to the order.

Glen - Antwort

Can you give me the size of the 5 screws in mm please

Dennis Trella - Antwort

That leftmost screw is really tough to get at - probably worth investigating whether you can take the headphone socket out before attempting to unscrew. Real risk of stripping the head.

Martin Ashby - Antwort

Martin, you can and need to remove the headphone jack in order to remove the topmost screw. You can do that with a pair of tweezers, there are no screws holding the jack, probably only some glue beneath.

Baroudeur - Antwort

When re-assembling, put the left-most screw before seating the earphone jack, it's easier to screw in, and also easier to adjust the rest of the assembly.

Alok - Antwort

As far as I can tell the info on this slide is nonsense.

Starting from left to right, as pictured here, by size.

1st is 2.0mm.

2nd (orange ) 1.8mm

3rd ( yellow ) is 1.46mm and cannot be used anywhere else.

4th and 5th are 1.5mm

Note 1st, 4th and 5th are circled in red but are not the same size.

Josh Ginsberg - Antwort

Ziehe vorsichtig mit einer Pinzette die Stummtaste und ihre Halterung aus der Seite des äußeren Gehäuses. Versuche noch nicht, die Stummtaste ganz zu entfernen.
  • Ziehe vorsichtig mit einer Pinzette die Stummtaste und ihre Halterung aus der Seite des äußeren Gehäuses.

  • Versuche noch nicht, die Stummtaste ganz zu entfernen.

It helps to push the silent switch in from the exterior of the case at the same time. Silent switch you are removing slides under the manual exterior switch

shop - Antwort

Fasse die Kopfhörerbuchse mit der Pinzette an und entferne die gesamte Einheit vom iPhone. Sei dabei sorgfältig und zerreiße nicht die dünnen Flachbandkabel.
  • Fasse die Kopfhörerbuchse mit der Pinzette an und entferne die gesamte Einheit vom iPhone. Sei dabei sorgfältig und zerreiße nicht die dünnen Flachbandkabel.

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Wenn du die Kopfhörerbuchse nicht durch eine neue ersetzt, kannst du diesen Schritt überspringen.
  • Wenn du die Kopfhörerbuchse nicht durch eine neue ersetzt, kannst du diesen Schritt überspringen.

  • Löse den elektronischen Teil der Stummtaste mit der Kante eines Plastiköffnungswerkzeugs von seiner Metallhalterung.

  • Übertrage die Halterung auf die neue Stummtaste.

  • Wiederhole dieses Verfahren und löse die Metallhalterung der Lautstärkeregelung vom elektronischen Teil der Lautstärkeregelung.

  • Übertrage die Halterung der Lautstärkeregelung auf die neue Lautstärkeregelung.

ok, i tore the flex. now what?

Steven Munoz - Antwort

I would suggest to anyone who doesn't have extensive experience with very small parts to *NOT* undertake this repair. I have replaced many parts on Apple's laptops before, even stripping down a PowerBook G3 and putting it back together but that was a piece of cake compare to putting back the mute switch. The pictures above don't show all the parts that make the mute switch. There is a small square bracket that came out when I was trying to put back the cable end used by the mute switch. It was also incredibly difficult, for some reason, to line up the 2 brackets that "sandwich" the cable end and hold it to the case. I spent over 3 hours just trying to line up one screw in one of the hole to no avail. I ended up breaking the cable after spending so much time. I had no problem with the volume buttons but was never able to put back the end for the mute switch. Anyone that is contemplating this repair should really think twice about this.

laurent - Antwort

After replacing the volume buttons and putting the screws back in place, the buttons would not move and I had to loosen the 3 screws ever so slightly to achieve the right amount of travel for each of the two volume buttons. I think that some of the adhesive residue from the old buttons might have made the assembly a fraction of a millimeter thicker, so maybe I should have cleaned up the mounting plate properly before sticking on the new flex ribbon and buttons.

The only way to get the corner screw into the mute assembly is to remove the headphone jack so the screwdriver can come in straight.

Anthony Berkow - Antwort

I had the exact same problem. With the new ribbon cable and volume buttons in place, if I tightened the screws all the way, the buttons were already depressed. I had to back off the screws a bit in order to get the volume buttons to work properly.

The last couple of steps in this fix are not well documented.

jaylmiller -

The cable routing for the motherboard connector is weird. Be sure to route the cable attached to the logic board connector so it doesn't go into the battery compartment. Before taking out your headphone connector, take a picture of the cabling so you can figure out how to fold the cable so it's at least flush. Don't stick anything down until everything is in place, because you'll be adjusting the cable as you go.

Don't put the mute switch in first - the cable is to bendy, and it'll go everywhere. Screw the volume buttons in first, which'll allow you to position the mute switch and make it stay. You can use a Q-tip or something to make sure that the mute button assembly stays in place while you screw in the screw.

For the mute assembly, the hooked part of the shield goes towards the top of the phone.

Note that the adhesive on the iFixit cable is bad, and doesn't really stick so well.

I had part left over, a right angle part with a screw hole in one arm and adhesive pad in the corner. Odd.

stores - Antwort

I agree that in order for the volume buttons to work properly, the rightmost and middle screws that hold the volume button bracket should stay a bit loose.

For those having a problem reseating the mute button assembly, remember to put the mute button in the right orientation: silent towards the rear glass, normal towards the LCD, then hold the phone horizontally and reseat the rest of the assembly then the bracket, using a spudger. Remain patient, do not use excessive force, this is the key to avoid tearing the sensitive flex cable.

Baroudeur - Antwort

I agree with the people complaining about that the final step is not well documented. I spent 2,5 hours yesterday to put the silent switch. Maybe a few lines to comment the reassembly and another picture of the "silent switch sandwich" would be fine.

Hector - Antwort

I have solved this problem by changing the new old buttons. As usually the problem lies in the flats, the buttons are functional. I have done this seven times return and it worked wonderfully well without letting loose screws.

alexsandreavila - Antwort

I agree with what's said here, the last step is very VERY unclear, it leaves you thinking, "ok, WTF do I do now?!?!" Thankfully these comments saved me. The trick of starting with the volume buttons, then the silent switch, which for me was tricky at first, because I was trying to put the parts in their place, in their order (first the silent switch in place, then the metal thing that goes in the middle, then the actual switch with the flex, and then the cover) kind of like making a sandwich, but after about half an hour of trying, I tried what others said here, assembling them out, and carefully put them in place at once. What was very helpful was a pair of crossover tweezers, that helped me hold the silent assembly in place while screwing. Thanks for the help guys!

Luis Barcena - Antwort

Help me! After replacing the volume control cable, my mute button does no budge or move at all although the volume buttons are working. Anyone has a solution to this?

Firasat Safdar - Antwort

This is really difficult. I managed to put the mute assembly back by first putting together the sandwich, then placing the sandwich in its place with tweezers and help from fingers, securing the whole thing with one finger, and using the other hand to screw in the right-hand screw. It took about a dozen attempts though. Be sure to look at a picture of the mute switch first to put it in in the right direction (had it in in the wrong direction, had to do everything again :(

Michael Wimmer - Antwort

Entferne die Vibrations-/Signaltaste vom äußeren Gehäuse.
  • Entferne die Vibrations-/Signaltaste vom äußeren Gehäuse.

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It should be added that before you perform ANY repairs to the iPhone 4, power it off and eject the SIM card FIRST. Then enjoy the rest of the repair! :)

Alex - Antwort

What is the nut under the yellow screw (1.4mm) i can't seem to get it in? And when i make calls it means i can't hear anything at all?

Brad - Antwort

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