Zum Hauptinhalt wechseln

Was du brauchst

  1. iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen, Rückabdeckung: Schritt 1, Bild 1 von 1
    • Bevor du anfängst, entlade deinen iPhone Akku auf weniger als 25%. Ein geladener Lithium-Ionen Akku kann Feuer fangen und/oder explodieren, wenn man ihn aus Versehen punktiert.

    • Schalte dein iPhone aus, bevor du mit der Demontage beginnst.

    • Entferne die beiden 3,6 mm P2 Pentalobe Schrauben neben dem Dockanschluss.

    • Vergewissere dich, dass du den Schraubendreher gut im Schraubenkopf ansetzt, wenn du die Pentalobe Schrauben entfernst, denn sie können leicht beschädigt werden.

    The Liberation Kit just stripped the screw. Now what.

    nimpsy - Antwort

    Had local iPhone repair shop remove the screw. Repair complete!

    nimpsy -

    I left the battery in and everything above the middle, using a pen knife to flex the logic board, I had plenty of room to else the old out and the new in.

    Worked well and saved a lot of time.

    Keith M - Antwort

    After reviewing the steps I decided to follow this guy's advice and left the battery in.....one less item to possibly foul up. I don't know if it made it any faster (first time to open my phone, so nothing to compare it to) but I can say that my phone is charging for the first time in 6 months :D

    Jennifer -


    1) This is doable but not easy, quick or without risk.

    2) If this is your 1st time, the whole process can take >2 hours (half of it reading this fixit manual and notes, which I highly recommend!)

    3) I highly recommend placing a large, thin clean white cloth on the table. This prevents screws from rolling around and you will clearly see anything falling out.

    4) If you have them, use tight surgical (latex) gloves. This prevents you from greasing up contacts.

    5) Have e.g. a big old egg box ready, so you can place the screws in order (and maybe write step/screw size on the side).

    6) I bought my display from "Generic" on Amazon ($20.36). Screen works fine and tools were ok but not great (screw drivers do not withstand force needed to unscrew some).

    7) I had my own 2mm Phillips screw driver and a 2.4mm flat (for the big screws).

    8) Have a nice cold beer by your side! Good luck!

    superedu111 - Antwort

    Sounds like this comment relates to a screen replacement, not a rear panel replacement. No way a rear panel replacement would take 2 hours - can be done in 2 minutes!

    Jonathan Deamer -

    I was paranoid about stripping the pentalobes - I used the ifixit pentalobe screwdriver TOGETHER with a layer of Glad Wrap (cling film or saran wrap for the non-Aussies) over the pentalobe holes - absolutely no problems. Guess it helps the driver head gain purchase?

    Anyway hat tip to this guy:


    jimforbes - Antwort

    It's also called glad wrap in the US as well. :)

    Scorppio500 Webmaster -

    After seeing the comments about trouble finding the carrier, I shut down the phone, did a soft reset (by holding the power and home buttons until it started and then shut down and stayed off), and removed the SIM. After the repair, I replaced the SIM and plugged it in to the charger. It started up and found the carrier (Verizon, as it happens) immediately. I would guess that only the soft reset made a difference, but I did both.

    DavidLewis - Antwort

    Thank you David, will I need to reload operating system if I replace thr logic board? I'm hoping to use a 32gb boards from a locked but working phone to place in my 8gb device. Thanks for your advice,


    Sharif Bagnulo -

    I pried one end of the back off only to find 2 funny little screws holding the other end on so I took my Dremel, like Jack said, and ground those suckers out. Once I had the back off I loosened all the screws then turned it upside down and shook the crap out of it. The screws went flying everywhere and fell on the floor. Its my moms house so of course she's got gross brown carpet. How am I supposed to find my screws in that? I get the vacuum out and go over every inch of the floor to suck up all them screws. Then I dump the bag on the table and all I find is a bunch of hair and gods knows what else, but no screws. When I look for my phone I see its covered in all that stuff that came out of the vacuum. I mean, what's up with that? How can I work on my phone if its covered in dirt? Nobody said anything about that, did they? The average guy's gonna screw up his phone big time if he follows these instructions and nobody warns him about all the dirt that's gonna end up in his phone. Are you kidding me!! Now what?

    Marv - Antwort

    Here's a little vacuum trick for anything small: put nylons/panty hose over the end of the hose and then you don't have to dig thru the bag contents.

    paul -

    Marv you a first class pleb! Please don't try and fix anything again. Tool

    ticklejahfancy -

    It's clear who's at fault here, Marv.

    It's as clear as the day has long legs. It's your Mom's fault.

    Milfs who make earth-tone carpet choices, are more likely to twerk, than tweek.

    And as far as trimmin the hedges are concerned, she's more likely to float a turd in the punchbowl,

    than to give you your inch.

    I know you think I'm crazy. But everyone else agrees. We all politely try to the other way...

    Your cuck stops here. We'll not near me, go over there...

    Nathan Brazil -

    my screws are stipped and i am going though the front glass to get to the logic board could some one give me a guide on how to get to the board please... thanks

    Caleb Croft - Antwort

    all you need to do is remove the clip over the wifi antenna and the one that actually attaches the wifi antenna to the iphone two steps to do this job...

    Ray Leahy - Antwort

    The physical battery replacement went off without a hitch, and saw that the phone had no network connection, but also had no way to unlock. The slide lock said "Slide for Emergency Call" over my custom wallpaper and sliding would give the passcode screen, but it would reject the 6 digit passcode (it would buzz and go dark after the 4th digit, re-awakening and putting in the last 2 would indicate bad passcode). Very frustrating! I get it into recovery mode and convinced iTunes to "update" the OS, but it still didn't let me in. I performed a restore to fully factory reset the phone, and it worked! Sort of... the start screen kept being replaced by "Temperature - phone needs to cool down" but it's cold. Temp sensor is on the battery and returning to old battery fixed it. New battery is bad, and phone is wiped. Fun night.

    I'm going to guess that disabling the password might save you from a similar fate. So, I'll suggest BEFORE YOU START, backup your phone and disable the passcode. Good luck.

    Ian Epperson - Antwort

    Same here.. Going through that terrible night myself! Guess you had to return your battery right?

    Nuno Alves -

    Is it possible to replace front glass only? If so, please provide a manuel

    Iva - Antwort

    Yes, it is. But it's very difficult and risky. Forget it... Have a look here: https://youtu.be/L_kCY05jR10

    Jiri Altman -

    I didn’t find this particularly difficult, even though I’m pretty inexperienced at this sort of work. I watched the video overview to get me going and then followed the steps in the guide. My tips would be to keep the screws and parts organised as you dismantle, and ensure you read all the reassembly tips as you go; it’s easy to skip over them. I also found using the Liberty Kit to replace the pentalobe screws was worthwhile.

    Poor old Marv of Feb 2015. Suggest he sticks to chopping logs.

    graemebagnall - Antwort

    caught fire as soon as I replaced the back phone destroyed

    Stuart Laurie - Antwort

    The battery on the phone is swollen so I need to replace it but I can’t turn it on to drain the battery, what do I do?

    Beetroot - Antwort

  2. iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen: Schritt 2, Bild 1 von 2 iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen: Schritt 2, Bild 2 von 2
    • Drücke das Rear Panel Richtung Oberkante des iPhones.

    • Das Panel bewegt sich ca. 2 mm.

    how can i take out the screw if it is stripped

    Manny Chaidez - Antwort

    with a small driller, but I guess it is very difficult. Never attempted that myself on an iPhone.

    lantzero -

    There is no screw in Step 2?

    Is the screw stripped or the head stripped?

    I have used superglue on the screwdriver to remove a stripped screw, it would turn but not come out, with superglue I could turn and pull the screw out. May also work on a stripped head.

    Trevor -

    If you are careful, use a Dremel tool and a micro drill bit (sold where Dremel tools are purchased) to drill it out. Last resort kind of thing, good luck.

    Jack - Antwort

    Why isn't it moving? I removed my screws.

    Thomas The Train - Antwort

    I pried one end of the back off only to find 2 funny little screws holding the other end on so I took my Dremel, like Jack said, and ground those suckers out. Once I had the back off I loosened all the screws then turned it upside down and shook the crap out of it. The screws went flying everywhere and fell on the floor. Its my moms house so of course she's got gross brown carpet. How am I supposed to find my screws in that? I get the vacuum out and go over every inch of the floor to suck up all them screws. Then I dump the bag on the table and all I find is a bunch of hair and gods knows what else, but no screws. When I look for my phone I see its covered in all that stuff that came out of the vacuum. I mean, what's up with that? How can I work on my phone if its covered in dirt? Nobody said anything about that, did they? The average guy's gonna screw up his phone big time if he follows these instructions and nobody warns him about all the dirt that's gonna end up in his phone. Are you kidding me!! Now what?

    Marv - Antwort

    I didn't see any extra screws holding the back in place. I had to use the included pry tool to get the back off. Just start at the bottom and pry gently...if you just "pull" like the guide says it won't work.

    Brian - Antwort

    Don't use too much force to slide the back -- the back on my phone was hard to slide, and I bent and broke a silver metal contact tab at the top of the back (on the inside).

    perryskeath - Antwort

    Super easy fix. Thanks for the tutorial!

    Terrence Carlson - Antwort

    Those little screwdrivers are easy to mix up, for those of us without ultra-perfect vision! Once I used the correct screwdriver, and my 13yo son's little fingers and perfect eyes, it went smoothly! Also my son noticed that the rubber piece around the camera len was covering the camera; it likely slid out of place when sliding off the back cover. A little playing around (with plastic tools only!) and it looks perfect now!

    ashleedawg - Antwort

    sorry but the rear panel is not pushed up. I pulled out the screws in the step 1 but still the rear panel does not move with even when I push it strongly.

    Doo Re Song - Antwort

    I too tried to push and slide the rear cover without success. I then tried just pushing the bottom edge up with my thumbnails. It moved very easily forward. Just a few mm movement is needed and then the cover can be removed.

    Michael Lakeman - Antwort

    The finger friction approach did not work for me, even when using a sticky pad.

    Here is what worked for me: Grab the iPhone in your right hand with the screen facing your hand and the top facing your body. Find a sharp edge of a desk or counter and place the bottom of the phone's back cover on is so that when you push it, the back cover remans against the desk with the body of the phone sliding free. BE GENTLE as this approach takes far less force than the finger friction approach.

    lesfam5 - Antwort

  3. iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen: Schritt 3, Bild 1 von 1
    • Zieh das Rear Panel von der Rückseite des iPhone weg und pass auf, dass die Kunststoff-Clips, die am Rear Panel befestigt sind, nicht beschädigt werden.

    • Entferne das Rear Panel vom iPhone.

    On reassembly, be sure to clean the metal plate at the place of contact with the tiny pressure contact mentioned in step 4.

    Harald Brandt - Antwort

    I pried one end of the back off only to find 2 funny little screws holding the other end on so I took my Dremel, like Jack said, and ground those suckers out. Once I had the back off I loosened all the screws then turned it upside down and shook the crap out of it. The screws went flying everywhere and fell on the floor. Its my moms house so of course she's got gross brown carpet. How am I supposed to find my screws in that? I get the vacuum out and go over every inch of the floor to suck up all them screws. Then I dump the bag on the table and all I find is a bunch of hair and gods knows what else, but no screws. When I look for my phone I see its covered in all that stuff that came out of the vacuum. I mean, what's up with that? How can I work on my phone if its covered in dirt? Nobody said anything about that, did they? The average guy's gonna screw up his phone big time if he follows these instructions and nobody warns him about all the dirt that's gonna end up in his phone. Are you kidding me!! Now what?

    Marv - Antwort

    The replacement panel I got had two sheets of protective plastic on the inside and one on the outside. I used a toothpick to carefully lift and peel the two inside sheets off. One small one was over the lens on the inside. The other was over some large brown sheet of unknown function (though I think it goes over the battery). When I peel that away, some of the brown material tried to lift of with it, so be very careful.

    Dave Hein - Antwort

    From this point go to step ?? Just peel off the tape from the chip. Take some aluminium foil and cut a hole the size of the chip (Use a second layer of foil if you don't thrust it). Heat the chip as described at temperature 300 deg C for 5 minutes. Let it cool down. Reassemble and ..... hura WIFI is on again.

    Lucasa Clearman - Antwort

  4. iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen, Akku: Schritt 4, Bild 1 von 2 iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen, Akku: Schritt 4, Bild 2 von 2
    • Entferne folgende Schrauben, mit denen der Akkuanschluss am Logic Board befestigt ist:

    • Eine 1,7 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube

    • Eine 1,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube

    This step needs a few more caveats.

    The bottom screw on my phone was locked with some thread adhesive, and required more force to loosen it than I expected.

    Even after removing the screws, the battery connector was rather firmly seated, and required a fair bit of persistent gentle prying with the opening tool before it came loose.

    The ground clip came loose and nearly flew off while loosening the connector, so it would really help people if there were a warning on this step to watch out for the ground clip and make sure it doesn't bounce away.

    threephi - Antwort

    I had the same problem with the ground clip! I’m glad that I didn't for it.

    iScott -

    The battery connector is attached to the battery. You're not going to completely lift it out and remove it. It pulls out from the socket you can see in step 5 picture 3. The pressure contact (little black and gold thing) will probably just slide out from under the connector. Not a problem.

    DMcG - Antwort

    I completed this successfully, but this step gave me the most trouble. The pressure contact is really difficult to reseat. So much so that it should probably be called out more clearly in it's own step.

    Greg Fulco - Antwort

    If your pressure contact pops out you might find the video at http://www.hightechdad.com/2013/05/07/ho... helpful

    Martin Cleaver - Antwort

    I found this link to be incredibly helpful in identifying how/ where to put the pressure contact back in place

    Elizabeth Harris -

    In french: attention avant de retirer le contacteur de la batterie. La vis du haut tient "en sandwich" une petite pièce métallique noire et dorée. Cette pièce a pour but de faire contact de masse avec le dos de l'iphone quand il est refermé. Donc il ne faut pas la tordre. Quand les deux vis du contacteur sont retirée, attention au moment de débrancher le contacteur: cela va faire bouger cette pièce qui ne doit pas être abîmée ni tordue. Au remontage, il faut bien la remettre en place sous le contacteur de batterie: il est tout à fait possible de mettre d'abord le contacteur, puis de glisser la petite pièce au dessous pour qu'elle soit bien à sa place, le trou en face du trou de vis et du trou du contacteur. En remettant la vis, la pièce tient bien en place. Elle doit bien continuer à dépasser de manière a faire contact avec le dos de l'iphone.

    stephane lecreux - Antwort

    Top screw didn’t move with iFixit Philips #000 driver. The metal is too soft and in the result the screw was damaged while still in place. Having nothing to lose I also tried #00 and #0. Any way to remove the stuck screw? I would gladly saw it off if I could.

    viktorcode - Antwort

    Ok, I had to drill the screw to break it. It was very delicate and time consuming operation. But in the end the screw cap finally broke off and I was able to remove the battery!

    viktorcode -

    The Liberation Kit Philips head screwdriver strips the battery connector screws! It stripped the ne 1.7 mm Phillips screw circled in red in the photo above. I was able to remove the other screw, then I lifted the battery connector off while the red screw was still in position and wound the connector around in circles while lifting upwards and managed to unscrew the stripped screw. Advice, find a decent philips heard screwdriver for the internal screws like the two found on the battery connector.

    remsta - Antwort

    Bottom screw was totally stuck, nothing could budge it. I removed top screw, heated up battery with hair dryer to release the glue, pulled it out using the spudger. Lifted up the metal plate thing (after taking out the ground piece and putting it aside). Cut off the flexible bit between the plate and the battery and twisted the plate around the screw as you did.

    Well, the screw eventually came out—but only the top half! Yes, it split in two. Then the bottom half came out, still attached to the thing it was screwed in to (a sort of barrel).

    I put the new battery in, put the bottom half (with the barrel) of lower screw back in its original position, replaced the ground piece and positioned the new plate over it, and screwed the top screw back in. Then put the top half of the lower screw in and tightened it.

    Et voila!

    Extra: It was helpful to discover that the 1.5 and 1.7 mm measurements refer to length of screw, not size of Phillips head.

    Claudia Baragiola -

    When reassembling, use EST tweezers to get align the pressure contact over the top screw hole. using the pointy end of a spudger to assist: put the point through top screw-hole on the battery connector, then through the pressure contact and into the screw-hole. this will help to keep the small piece in place while re-seating the battery connector. Leave the top hole spiked as such until the screw in the bottom hole is gently fastened. Remove the spudger and replace the top screw.

    tallismanproductions - Antwort

    Pressure contact needs to be remain EXACTLY in the same position if you remove/replace battery. I had to re-open my iPhone 4S after a battery replacement (the mobile connectivity was lost) and tweak the position of the Pressure to restore functionality.

    Peter Schoeman - Antwort

    I used my 16x magnifier loupe to be certain I had the pressure sensor aligned with the screw hole - no problem, no stripping. I consider it indispensable for tricky steps like this, and IFixit sells a similar tool for just $14.

    Jen Morris - Antwort

    The pressure connector is the battery connector under the silver plate. BE CAREFUL. It seems like it'd be really easy to tear that pressure connector out without meaning to. The bronze and black thing is the ground, *not* the pressure connector. If you remove it just keep track of it and re-install it.

    Brian - Antwort

    The phillips head screwdriver provided in the ifixit repair kit does not work well this these two screws after my first attempt at unscrewing the screws became stripped. The 1.7 mm phillips screw gave me the most trouble. It took an hour to unscrew after the screwdriver from the kit stripped the screw. I used a piece of masking tape over the screw for grip to loosen it, then used finger nail clippers as pliers to unscrew. I would recommend investing in a better screwdriver for this one step. Assembly is otherwise simple and easy.

    teeteebaby5 - Antwort

    Here's a tip if you're having trouble removing the 1.7 mm screw. I had real problems removing it – the 1.5 mm screw came out easily using a Phillips #000 screwdriver but I almost stripped the 1.7 mm screw using the same screwdriver. What I did instead was use a flathead screwdriver from the iFixit pro tech toolkit I got, the one with a "–" sign and 1.0 size. That worked perfectly!

    Lars - Antwort

    When disconnecting the battery make sure to use a plastic tool not a metal tool that could short out the battery

    Ethan Chow - Antwort

    I would agree that a decent magnifier would help as the screws and components are small.

    Also take necessary precautions to ensure the screws are not lost or mixed up.

    Other than being a bit fiddly (particularly the earth connector), the only challenge I had not covered was that the battery was fixed with glue close to where the connector is and despite releasing the battery along the side, I couldn't get the battery to lift out using the tab. In the end I had to use the plastic tools to gently lever the battery away, working from the outside edge and ensuring I wasn't levering against the volume control buttons.

    The new battery is in and following the advise given, I hard reset the phone and all my usual functions are now running... and if this £18:00 fix gives the phone another year or two of use, it will be well worth the effort.

    Dave Mann - Antwort

    Vous dites "Le connecteur de batterie s'enlève verticalement de la carte mère. Ne forcez pas latéralement"

    Ou placez vous la verticalité ? pour moi c'est connecteur d'alimentation en bas, bouton d'alimentation en haut ?

    Parce ce que sur la photo suivante, vous enlevez le connecteur de la gauche vers la droite ... c'est à dire latéralement ...

    Soit nous n'avons pas le même sens vertical / horizontal, soit il y a un GROS problème dans l'explication, ou dans la traduction.

    En tout cas, à la lecture de votre explication, j'ai essayé d'enlever le connecteur vers le haut !!

    Donc il m'est maintenant impossible de remettre la batterie neuve, le connecteur est cassé !!!

    Bravo pour l'expertise ifixit :(

    Appoline - Antwort

    I've gone through this process twice now. I found this video also very helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nYYdbk3U...

    The little contact thing that sits under top screw is always the biggest hassle to fit back into place (I do it after attaching the battery cable) with tweezers from ifixit.

    My personal tips:

    - plan that the incredibly tiny screws or the top-screw contact thing, might get away from you. so work in a space where you can find them easily. Not over carpet, etc.

    - I use strips of tape on a piece of paper to secure the screws while they are out, and position them so I know which one goes on top of battery connector, and the one on bottom.

    - If you have access to a spouse's/mate's iphone, in Accessibility settings there's a Magnifier option (triple-click home button) which does an amazing job at magnifying stuff at a circa 4-6" distance. Lacking any good magnifying glasses, this feature helped a lot. https://www.imore.com/how-use-magnifier-...

    Wayne Walrath - Antwort

    Why the guide don't mention PH000 or PH00 instead of Phillip 1.7 mm / 1.5 mm? I didn't know it is PH000 until some comments here save my time. Thanks guys

    wanhor - Antwort

    I wonder if the two screws shown on the picture are not inverted. It would seem logical to me that the longest (1.7mm) screw be placed on the upper hole, (where there is the yellow circle) ie on the hole where there is extra thickness (of the gold plated grounding contact sheet metal) in the sandwich. I have not checked, however, I just put the screws in the same location as found.

    Yves - Antwort

    I was able to remove the screws without problem, but almost stripped one of the screws when reinstalling the battery connector. Be careful how much force you use!

    Matt - Antwort

    It does not work

    Jonathan Sousa - Antwort

    When removing the 1.7 mm Philips screw, on rare occasion, the socket it is threaded into, might come out with it. (It depends on how little of that blue glue was used underneath on the assembly line.) Grab the socket under the removed plate between your fingers and use your Phillips screwdriver to back out the 1.7 mm screw from the old shield. Then once separated, thread back in the socket, into the case where it came from. You will want to do that before installing the new battery. You will need a small flat blade to span the socket hole in order to thread it back in snug. When the 1.7 mm screw is threaded back in with the new shield (with the Phillips screwdriver), it should tighten the rest of the way. Don’t over tighten. Great little kit!

    Jim Henkel - Antwort

  5. iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen: Schritt 5, Bild 1 von 3 iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen: Schritt 5, Bild 2 von 3 iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen: Schritt 5, Bild 3 von 3
    • Schiebe den Druckkontakt weg vom Akkustecker, bis er aus seiner Position frei wird.

    • Entferne den Druckkontakt.

  6. iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen: Schritt 6, Bild 1 von 3 iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen: Schritt 6, Bild 2 von 3 iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen: Schritt 6, Bild 3 von 3
    • Löse den Akkustecker vorsichtig mit einem Plastiköffnungswerkzeug aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.

    • Beginne den Stecker an der Unterseite anzuheben, indem du die Spitze des Werkzeug zwischen Lautsprecherumfassung und Metallabdeckung des Steckers einsetzt.

    • Der Akkustecker löst sich senkrecht zum Logic Board ab. Wende keine seitlichen Kräfte auf.

    • Achte darauf, dass die am Logic Board festgelötete Fassung des Akkuanschlusses nicht abreißt. Vier winzige Lötstellen warten geradezu auf dieses Missgeschick!

    No idea what exactly this step means. I just pulled the battery connector without trying to move the pressure contact. Installed new battery, plugged in connector and aligned the pressure contact slightly for the screw to fit.

    Got a big scare as the phone would not connect to the cell network at first boot, only WiFi. Shut it off and when it rebooted it seemed to work. WIll probably know in a day or so if everything works fine or if there are interference issues, etc.

    andries - Antwort

    This is normal ... removing the battery resets internal clock to start value and your provider doesn't accept that, hence no network.

    Going online through wifi or manually setting date right corrects this after a reboot.

    Dreetn -

    The black & copper contact piece is missing from my iPhone. Does that explain why my phone won't restore and keeps re-booting? I have tried every kind of restore with no luck. Any ideas?

    ozarkana - Antwort

    After reassembling the iPhone I the GSM connection wasn't working. After cleaning all parts with isopropyl alcohol it still didn't work. What solved my problem was to turn on WiFi and then synchronizing the date and time which was set to 1970-01-01. After a reboot everything worked just fine. :)

    Florian - Antwort

    I had the same problem. Thanks for the solution!!

    Manolis Mylonakis -

    thanks for this!

    Bill McNamara -

    The black ground contact needs still more "flagging." This is a simple metal strip that is attached ONLY by the 1.5mm (upper) screw. It will help if you look at it before you remove the upper screw. Notice the gold contact arm and point. That contact point must be in a plane above every other surface inside the device when you replace the battery connector, because it makes a ground contact with the metallic inner surface of the device back plate.

    When I replaced it, I used the Pentalobe driver to line up battery connector and ground contact with the screw socket post. I then attached the 1.7mm (lower) screw loosely, removed the Pentalobe driver gently, and inserted the 1.5mm (upper) screw into the assembly. There is a tab on the ground contact that helps it align properly once pressure begins to applied. I completed driving the upper screw, pressing lightly with the spudger on the battery connector plate to make sure it was seated on the pressure contacts. Finally, I completed driving the lower screw.

    Matt McCaffrey - Antwort

    I didn't find any need to remove the pressure contact. I just pried the battery connector up (gently) with a spudger and left the pressure contact in place. Connected the new battery and aligned the pressure contact screw hole. Replaced the screws, finished reassembly and all was good.

    Roger Mercer - Antwort

    After reassembly, the CELL CONNECTION WASN'T WORKING. You might need to slightly bend the contact in step 5 up just a little, so it will make contact with the metal back plate. Did that and it worked perfectly.

    Great kit, great instructions, thanks!

    AirPhonesApp - Antwort

    all those teeny screws...and the world is so...well...BIG!

    go slow and put those parts INTO something...

    putting them "on" something will just cause heartache and and an infected bladder...


    after a lot of froofroo and very errant iphone behaviour problems, i concluded that that tiny grounding piece must be being lazy as hello. i spread it out a bit to ensure a better contact with the back plate and everything appears to be working smoothly.

    did this repair, as well as the battery replacement...GTG!!!

    spoke too soon, i 'spect...random reboots persist.

    richard - Antwort

    Just went through the replacement and the battery "plug" (step 5) on my replacement battery was slightly misaligned relative to the metal plate used to screw it onto the board. The plastic and "gold" "plug" was slightly askew on the metal plate, which meant that when the plug was inserted, the screw holes (step 4) were poorly aligned.

    I managed to pull everything back into line using the screws, but the QC on these replacement batteries is a bit suspect.

    cvdwl - Antwort

    Guess what happens when you rotate that ground connector 180 degrees...it grounds what I deduced to be the heat sink of the power amplifier for the speaker! So it is silent. It took me a couple of attempts to discover this as I was distracted by the new speaker not sitting down properly and a little dot of stuff under the main connector stuck to the pins. The latter was cleaned-off with a pin under 5x magnification followed by some isopropyl alcohol.

    I suggest that Step 5 is more explicit about the orientation of this ground connector. It's only obvious after a really close look and if one has a lot to do like I did, it's a long time before one comes back to this step so the correct orientation is not obvious.

    Michael Scollay - Antwort

    I accidentally removed the pressure contact and I was not able to put it back in place and so far haven't ran into any problems. Is this safe??

    Vasu Reddy - Antwort

    I did it als well. All Funktionen well.but i am Not sure if that reduce battery power? Thanks very much for information

    Lupus - Antwort

    The hole in the pressure contact aligns with the top screw. The IFIXIT tool kit I bought contained a black sharp “thing” that I used to align the pressure contact with the top screw hole. I used this tool to align the bottom screw hole also. I put the bottom screw in first but did not tighten it all the way. A good magnifying glass with a light helped a lot. Tim

    Tim - Antwort

    Aligning with the black pointy “thing” definitely helps. Also, the small copper end of the contact piece is supposed to stick up once attached, to make contact with the back plate of the phone after re-assembly. The piece slides under the silver metal plate, and the the pointer can be used to align the silver plate hole and the black/copper plate hole in place for the screw.

    Rog - Antwort

  7. iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen, Tipp zum Zusammenbau: Schritt 7, Bild 1 von 2 iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen, Tipp zum Zusammenbau: Schritt 7, Bild 2 von 2
    • Achte beim Zusammenbau darauf, dass du den Druckstecker sorgfältig an seinem alten Platz ausrichtest. Er muss, wie auf den Bildern gezeigt, auf dem Stift für die Kreuzschlitzschraube aufliegen. Dabei muss der Goldkontakt in Richtung Akkuanschluss zeigen.

    • Säubere den Druckstecker mit einem Fettlöser wie Isopropylakohol oder Windex, bevor du ihn wieder einsetzt. Die Fette an deinen Händen können Störungen an der Funkverbindung verursachen.

    Without that contact. Will the iPhone still use wifi? I need an answer ASAP!

    Gabriel Vaughn - Antwort

    Nope, Just tried it and without it it won’t connect to cellular or WiFi

    posthumus -

    What if i lose that little metal ? Huhu

    Zheea Patang - Antwort

    Reattached it before removing the battery in next step? Or you mean upon reinstalling after all following steps ? Little confused why I would disconnect then reconnect then take battery out ? Or that is just for reinstalling?

    Nikko M - Antwort

    Hi Nikko,

    You’re right—reattach it when you reassemble the phone. I’ll re-word it to hopefully clarify that.

    Arthur Shi -

    Arthur, you still need to re-word steps 7 & 8 ;-)

    Excellent job highly appreciate by the way!


    Antoine L

    Antoine Labourgade - Antwort

    Thanks Antoine!

    I’m not sure what needs to be re-worded in step 8?

    Arthur Shi -

    What if you lose it?

    Andy Shen - Antwort

  8. iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen: Schritt 8, Bild 1 von 2 iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen: Schritt 8, Bild 2 von 2
    • Führe die Kante eines Plastic Opening Tools zwischen den Akku und die Außenschale relativ weit unten am iPhone.

    • Fahre mit dem Plastic Opening Tool entlang der rechten Kante des Akkus und heble an mehreren Stellen, um ihn vollständig von dem Kleber zu lösen, mit dem er an der Außenschale befestigt ist.

    • Wenn der Kleber zu stark ist, dann gib einige Tropfen von hochkonzentriertem Isopropylalkohol (mehr als 90%ig) unter die Kante des Akkus.

    • Lasse den Alkohol etwa eine Minute lang wirken, damit der Klebestreifen geschwächt wird.

    • Hebe dann den Akku behutsam mit dem flachen Ende eines Öffnungswerkzeugs hoch.

    • Versuche nicht, den Akku mit Gewalt herauszuhebeln. Tröpfle mehr Alkohol hinein, falls das nötig ist, um den Kleber zu schwächen. Verforme niemals den Akku und stich ihn nicht an.

    • Wenn sich noch Reste vom Alkohol im Smartphone befinden, dann wische sie vor dem Einbau des neuen Akkus sorgfältig weg, oder lasse das Gehäuse gut austrocknen.

    This can be very tricky because sometimes theres just too many glue on the back of the battery, and eventually the battery will be deformed.

    Carlos Lopes - Antwort

    Yes, there did seem to be a lot of glue holding my battery in. At first I was afraid of breaking it, but after reading up on the subject I've learned that it is okay if the battery gets a little deformed. Due to the nature of the battery it will still work if slightly deformed.

    djlogic26 - Antwort

    I found the plastic pull tab to be useless. Peeled pretty much the whole battery out from the left side. Used a probe to "break" a few strands of glue to help. Just watch the connector and ribbon cable in the lower left corner as you pry up so you don't crimp them or damage them.

    gregsrow - Antwort

    Try a used plastic credit/gift card to apply gentle pressure to lift the battery out of the phone, the short edge of the card fits within the gap on the logic board side between the battery and video cables. You can also use it on the opposite side if there is room between the battery and iPhone frame. This has worked on all of the 4 and 4s models I've replaced screens on.

    I offer an alternative image if interested.

    Wallace Karraker - Antwort

    Removing the battery wasn't necessary. I attempted the removal but decided not to in the end. It didn't get in the way at all.

    BigFatCat - Antwort

    i also skipped the battery removal step. the battery didn't get in the way, but it did make it difficult to see if the wifi grounding fingers (step 14) were underneath the case lip. everything worked in the end though so i don't think removing the battery is a strict requirement.

    rippergirl - Antwort

    How can you not remove the battery in a battery replacement fix? Step 14, there are only 7 steps. Me thinks these comments are getting mixed up between different fixes!

    bluezzer -

    I did not remove the battery to do a Speaker replacement and had no issues with getting the Speaker out/in. So, steps 4 and 5 are required but not step 6.

    rcrodriguez2 - Antwort

    The plastic tab is not attached to the battery. I just pried from the right and slid tools under until I broke all the adhesive.

    DMcG - Antwort

    I found it easier to start by pulling the plastic lip to loosen the battery, then, if needed, use the plastic tool to pry from the side.

    superedu111 - Antwort

    I tried to get the battery out as depicted in the first picture. It deformed and is now broken. Not happy. It seems better to leave it or get it out by gently pulling the tab.

    Paul Baars - Antwort

    Please, Please, PLEASE avoid using probing elements to try remove batteries. I have had dozens handed in to me with punctures and two that actually started smoking due to people trying to prise the battery out. DO NOT DO IT.

    The best way I have found to remove the battery is this process;

    1) Try remove it with the pull tab directly, some will come out, some will not. Do NOT use excessive pull force else it'll deform the battery and reduce the capacity.

    2) If the pull test didn't work, then get a hot air gun on medium and warm up the area around the battery for about 30 seconds, focusing on the perimeter of the battery. If you see ANY popcorn'ing then you're too hot, you don't want to cook the battery.

    2.1) Wait about 30 seconds for the heat to now wick underneath the battery to soften the adhesive.

    2.2) Now try pull the battery up, the extra heat should have softened the glue that you can remove the battery without excessive force and without sticking objects under the battery.

    Paul L Daniels - Antwort

  9. iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen: Schritt 9, Bild 1 von 2 iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen: Schritt 9, Bild 2 von 2
    • Ziehe an der freigelegten Kunststofflasche, um den Akku vom Kleber zu lösen, mit dem er am iPhone festgemacht ist.

    • Sei vorsichtig, wenn du an der Lasche ziehst, da diese sehr leicht abreißen kann.

    • Entferne den Akku.

    • Falls dein Ersatzteil in einer Plastikhülle geliefert wurde, dann entferne sie vor dem Einbau, indem du sie vom Flachbandkabel abziehst.

    • Wenn das Kabel deines neuen Akkus noch nicht die richtige Form hat, dann biege das Kabel in die richtige Form, bevor du den Akku in das Smartphone einbaust.

    • Schließe beim Einbau des Ersatzakkus den Akkuanstecker zeitweise an das Smartphone an, um so zu prüfen, ob der Stecker genau passt. Wenn der Akku dann festgeklebt ist, trenne den Akkuanschluss wieder ab.

    • Führe nach dem Austausch einen Hard Reset durch. Dieser hilft diverse Probleme zu vermeiden und eventuell trotzdem nötige Fehlersuche zu vereinfachen.

    Be VERY careful NOT to pull off the part of the connector that is on the logic board! Mine now has only contact but no solder until I can get a small enough soldering iron and a less shaky pair of hands!

    Rob Hendricks - Antwort

    I lost the 1.5mm and 1.7mm screws when replacing my 4s battery. Is there a place that sells just these two screws? I bought a 4s screw kit from Zeeton.com but figuring out which screw out the of 39 screws were the the 1.5mm and 1.7mm was impossible.

    admin - Antwort

    Buy a cheap pair of digital callipers ($20 -$30) and it will be clear. You can then use them to measure all kinds of things instead of squinting with a ruler.

    bluezzer -

    I bent the wire of the silent button on right top of the battery. Now the silent botton don't work. The wire on the bent is half-cut. BE CAREFUL when you put the new battery inside!

    orzo - Antwort

    Was having a hard time getting the screws back into the battery connector. Read another tip online that helped - pushed the end of my phillips screwdriver into some soft candle wax which gave it just enough stickyness to have the screw stay attached to the screwdriver while I was moving it toward the hole. Thought I'd pass that along.

    bill - Antwort

    I did as wazzamagu did (and stated above), "My Pentalobe tool was slightly magnetized so I used that to bring the screws in for tightening with the Philips screwdriver." That made replacing the screws fairly easy. Thanks for all the advice on this page. It was not hard at all. Go slow and carefully, everything is smaller in there than I expected. The "searching" thing came up as it seems for most people, but just took a reboot and all is fine.

    amorteguy - Antwort


    I had the same issue with "searching network". After resetting the network settings in settings it did work perfectly!

    Klemt - Antwort

    Took about 15 minutes. The only thing that was confusing was the reference to parts, using the partname, and I didn't know what they were referring to. So I had to figure it out by the photos. Slightly frustrating. Got it in and it worked. My problem then, was it kept SEARCHING and couldn't find my carrier. I followed everyones advice on here, plugged phone into my computer to itunes. then turned off network settings in settings, then turned them back on, and I got 3 bars. good to go.

    sally -

    Instructions were good and everything works fine after replacement. Needed to use a tweezer on the pressure contact on the top screw of the battery. Thanks

    jeff - Antwort

    I swapped out the battery today. No real issues. Pretty easy task.

    ddbbsr - Antwort

    For the past couple of months, my phone had been dying very fast. I knew that my phone's battery capacity was getting quite low as this phone is older now, and is out of warranty. So I ordered a replacement battery about a week ago, and just installed it yesterday. The install was pretty easy, if you pay attention to where everything belongs. But my draining issue has not gone away. It stays charged a bit longer, my capacity is at almost 100%, yet it can't even hold a charge over night. I'm not sure what is causing this and would love any tips or stories from someone else!! Please help!!

    loucksls92 - Antwort

    Beim Einbauen des neuen Akkus ist es sinnvoll diesen zuerst anzuschließen und dann erst wieder in die richtige Position zu bringen da man so dass Anschlusskabel besser verlegen kann

    Andreas Richter - Antwort

    OMG thank you iFIXIT, the apple store wanted 3 times the cost of this repair kit. It took less than 5 minutes with most of the time spent trying to prise out the battery as it was glued in nice and tight but steady pressure from the spudger did the trick.

    I think the best advice would be to touch nothing with your fingers as with careful use of the spudger I was able to position the tensioner point no problem. Everything else was nice 'n' easy.

    Finally there was no cell connection only Wifi when I powered up so I simply powered down and up again and all is well in the world!

    Thanks again.

    Yvonne Frankl - Antwort

    The battery was incredibly hard to remove. I slid the spudger underneath the battery from the right side as far as it would go. Then, I worked it from the bottom to the top. The battery still was adhered and wouldn't budge using the pull tab. I wound up leaving the spudger underneath the battery at the top and then pressing down on the bottom of the battery to get leverage. After a few strong pushes, and then swapping the top and bottom in the last sentence, the old battery came loose.

    I used tweezers to hold the tiny screws and align them with the screwdriver head before taking the screw to the destination hole.

    One more tip.. if you don't have any other cartons or containers convenient, use the box that the product comes in as a workspace for holding the tiny screws while you work.

    Steve B - Antwort

    good tips, i took a couple of photos so i knew what it should look like and removed the screws and placed them in the order i removed them pretty easy if you take your time and be gentle

    Sam B -

    Be VERY careful not to pull on the plastic tab before you fully detach the adhesive or else you will rip the tab clean off. If you did this it is still possible to remove the battery. I just used the guitar pick tool things to slowly work it through the adhesive and under the battery

    Zach Mangs - Antwort

    It is possible to remove and replace the upper antenna WITHOUT removing the logic board!! So skip from step 7 to step 21 to 26 and 27.

    What - Antwort

    Stuck on searching after unplugging and plugging in the battery?

    This is due to the date and time being set back to default. To fix this you will need to synchronize the date and time back to what it is currently.

    You can do this by either:

    - Connecting the phone to either a Wi-Fi network, Cellular Network (Mobile Data).

    - Connecting the phone to iTunes (It will synchronize the time automatically once iTunes is opened and can detect and access the iPhone).

    Once the date and time is synced you will need to turn airplane mode off and one as it may display 'Searching... 3G' or if it still says searching (which most of the time happens if the sim card has a sim pin lock enabled on it) you will then need to turn the phone off and on.

    Ben - Antwort

    Watched the video and ordered the kit, followed all the steps and it all went brilliantly - thank you all so much.

    diegodesignsbiz - Antwort

    Is it suggested that I add more adhesive with the replacement battery?

    Sam Love - Antwort

    One thing I noted with the replacement battery - from AussieBattery here in Australia; not from iFixit - but the same problem might occur; is that the cable on the new battery had to be 'tamed' (bent here & there like on the old battery, before I could reseat the screws and even the battery itself. One again the black - pointy & flat ended - spudgers, that we use in desktop iMacs, were helpful in getting under that battery and releasing it from sticky-!&&*! I used a pair of '2.5' reading glasses for this job, but '3.0' might have been better, as those screws are INFINITESIMALLY small!!!!! :(

    amicuset - Antwort

    Thank you IFIXIT! The battery replacement went very well for me. I was exceedingly careful with the minuscule fasteners. Reading through the instructions, watching the video and reading these comments before jumping in helped. I found the parts and tools to be of good quality. I feel like I beat the system! I used a pair of diopter 3 reading glasses which was a real aid. I hope my comment encourages others...

    Colin Murdoch - Antwort

    My rare earth magnets came in handy when I managed to lose the little grounding connecter screws. Those little guys will go flying if, while trying to align them for reassembly, pressure gets applied in just the wrong way. I say one fly out and bounce off my shirt, then it was gone, on the floor I presume. I grabbed my stack of 8 little magnets, waved it around on the floor under where I was sitting and what do you know? A little screw was stuck to it! I never would've found it just by looking...

    William Wingstedt - Antwort

    You really need to include information about the pressure sensor. It WILL inevitably pop out, leaving us wondering how and in what order it should be replaced. I had to look elsewhere for videos outside of iFixit to figure this out. Also, tell us which screwdriver to use using the label on the bit (PH000, P2, Y000, etc.). Providing only the sizes of the screws does nothing to help determine the appropriate bit to use when they aren’t labeled as such. Otherwise thank you!

    Thomas Price - Antwort

    I replaced the battery and the phone started right up. But I cannot get it to charge It was half charged when it went in new and I plugged it into a charger Checked it later - not charged. So tried another charger and the green charging light still will not come on . Any suggestions? Thanks Don

    Donald Brown - Antwort

    My iPhone 4s somehow has another connector on the battery. I cant connect the new battery to the phone. Its a complete different looking connector. And yes its never been replaced before or opened. The iPhone is one of the first versions for the german market after the fall of the simlock. Pls help

    macadi - Antwort

    If it doesn’t look like what you’re seeing here, it’s probably not an iPhone 4S. Check the model number carefully. People mix up the regular and “S” models all the time. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I succeeded to replace the screen, but I made a mistake with the batterie cable, and it finally broke, seems that the cable was too long and I was forced to make too tight loop.

    Maybe a series of photo to explain how to make this the right way.

    Serpieri - Antwort

    yoooo that was so easy and fun man!!!!!! love y’all

    Felix Santoyo - Antwort

    January 21st, 2020. My original iPhone 4s battery finally kicked the bucket. I just finished installing the new battery with ifixit.com and their parts kit. $16.99 and 30 mins of my time and the phone lit back up and is currently doing the charge for calibration. Thanks so much ifixit!

    Cynthia Biondo - Antwort

    I succeed without any trouble. Tools and guide are excellent! Thank you

    Fabrice Bianchi - Antwort

  10. iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen, Dock Anschluss Kabel: Schritt 10, Bild 1 von 2 iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen, Dock Anschluss Kabel: Schritt 10, Bild 2 von 2
    • Entferne die folgenden Schrauben, die das Dock Anschluss Kabel am Logic Board befestigen:

    • Eine 1,5 mm Kreuzschlitz Schraube

    • Eine 1,2 mm Kreuzschlitz Schraube

    • Entferne die metallene Abdeckung des Dock Anschluss Kabels.

    Are the screw sizes switche up by any chance? A 4S i have here has the left hole bigger and one of the screws didn't want to go into the right hole when it went nicely into the left one.

    primozresman - Antwort

    Fabulous tutorial! Many thanks! i have now a working iPhone back after display crash and glass brake!

    In Step 8 I think the colors of the screws are inverted. The larger screw is at the left (near the sideboard) and the smaller is in the middle, near the battery (iPhone 4S).

    Markus - Antwort

    Was trying to fix guide but accidently messed some things up in formatting and I too also believe the picture is incorrectly displaying the 1.5mm(which is the left screw) and the 1.2mm(which is the right screw.

    Mars Starcruiser - Antwort

    I believe the guide is correct, but be careful as the screws are not the same as the other 1.2mm screws from later on. Length is the same, but the diameter is not... just keep them all separate.

    Dave - Antwort

    Organizer: tape cheap duct tape tacky side up to a tray. Get a ball point or roller ball pen. For every screw, write step number and a letter for color (R, O, Y, etc.) then stick the screw there. I bumped the table and nothing moved. Also use a big white towel as a work surface: nothing bounces away if you drop it. This helped re-assembly

    griffn - Antwort

    Also remove 4 screws holding metal cover plate adjacent to camera lens, remove plate to expose camera plug. when removing the rear facing camera, be careful not to loose the small grounding finger mentioned in step 21

    Robin - Antwort

    Same for me as for various other posters here: the bigger screw goes on the left, the smaller on the right. Doesn’t fit the other way.

    jack.jansen - Antwort

    Switch the position of the screws, it’s incorrect in the pic.

    laurenzano.alex - Antwort

  11. iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen: Schritt 11, Bild 1 von 1
    • Benutze die Kante eines Plastic Opening Tools, um das Dock Kabel nach oben aus seiner Fassung auf dem Logic Board zu hebeln.

  12. iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen: Schritt 12, Bild 1 von 1
    • Löse das Dock Anschluss Kabel von dem Kleber, mit dem es am Logic Board und der Seite des Lautsprechergehäuses befestigt ist.

    My gold adhesive has torn, exposing a sliver of the flat wire beneath it. I have put a bit of insulation tape to prevent any contact between the wire and the top of the vibrator and metal piece on the logic board. I don't know if this is sensible or not. Depends whether the gold adhesive is intended to be an electrical contact with these bits, or an insulator from these bits! I will post to update once the phone is powered up / blown up!

    David Thorne - Antwort

    I just broke the cable with frame. Careful…

    adrielito_loquito_2006 - Antwort

  13. iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen: Schritt 13, Bild 1 von 2 iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen: Schritt 13, Bild 2 von 2
    • Heble mit der Kante eines Plastic Opening Tools das Kabel der Mobilfunkantenne aus seiner Fassung auf dem Logic Board.

    • Hole das Kabel der Mobilfunkantenne unter den Metallhalterungen vom Logic Board hervor.

    Ok, I did all the steps and phone seems to be OK, wifi is actually working again, yaaay.

    But cellular connection is messed up. It will have full reception (5 pins) for about 10 seconds, then drop to 1 pin for a couple seconds, then go into "searching" mode. After a few seconds in "searching" mode it will go back to full reception and the process repeats itself in a timely fashion, over and over again. Obviously I messed up somewhere but where? Which connections are faulty/beyond repair?

    Colorblend - Antwort

    I dismantled the phone again and concluded that the digitizer cable was kind of loose (don't know if that affected anything, but i put it down firmly this time). I had 2 problems, the cellular connection I mentioned plus the phone would charge to 3 percent, die, and then repeat the procedure. What I did was I took out the battery, the tin plate above the cables, and lifted the dock connector. So I did not redo that much. I cleaned all contact surfaces as I had been told but chose to not do before.... I also took out the grounding clip by the battery connectors and bent it upwards quite a bit while also peeling away 2 mm of the black insulation material on the back of the phone to make sure the grounding clip connects well to the back of the phone. I also cleaned that surface with window cleaner, which is basically isoprypol alcohol as has been recommended. The cellular antenna connector I pushed down firmly to make sure it was connected, I was gentler the first time, now everything works.

    Colorblend - Antwort

    Note that the antenna cable goes around the the right side of that little guiding hook/finger. On the photo it shows the cable on the left of it. The hook is almost right below the socket.

    jasperm - Antwort

    Thanks Jasperm, that info was a big help!

    Don Hayashi -

  14. iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen, Rückkamera: Schritt 14, Bild 1 von 1
    • Beachte den äußeren Plastikring, der auf dem Blitz der Rückkamera aufliegt. Er kann leicht verloren gehen, wenn er bei der Demontage nicht entfernt wird.

    • Um den äußeren Kunststoffring zu entfernen, kannst du eine Pinzette, ein Plastic Opening Tool oder einen Spudger benutzen.

    Sometimes found stuck to the inside of the back cover.

    Jeremy Jones - Antwort

    Don't do it!!! you can skip that, it will stay and its more of a pain to remove it.

    Nic Harper - Antwort

    This is unnecessary step!! Don't do that!!

    javamonk - Antwort

    Agreed, mine was stuck inside of the back cover

    fidelvila - Antwort

    So was mine - thanks for telling! Rests of soft glue could be scratched off the place - so the ring was already off and I looked for it everywhere.

    Ida - Antwort

    Mine was stuck to the cover too, thanks for posting.

    davisyang - Antwort

    Mine too, thx :)

    Katja Huovinen - Antwort

  15. iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen: Schritt 15, Bild 1 von 1
    • Entferne die folgenden vier Schrauben, mit denen die Kabelabdeckung am Logic Board befestigt ist:

    • Eine 2,7 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube

    • Eine 2,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube

    • Eine 1,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube

    • Eine 1,2 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube

    On reassembly, note that the metal lip below the (red) 2.7mm screw and to the right of the (green) 1.2mm screw goes between the ribbon cable and the main logic board, as can be seen in the picture for Step 12. If you don't get this right, the 2.7mm screw is difficult and, worse, there's a risk the edge of the lip will tear the ribbon cable.

    David Bruce - Antwort

    I had challenges here. As noted, the metal lip below the (red) 2.7mm screw and to the right of the (green) 1.2mm screw goes between the ribbon cable and the main logic board. That lip points away from you, towards the screen, THEN BENDS UP towards the power button. You need to pull the metal shield down a little (which stresses the ribbon cable) to get the hook-shaped feature free.

    griffn -

    The fastening on the board came loose when trying to remove screw the 1.2 mm Phillips screw. So the screw hole for that screw is still attached to the cover that I removed.

    Aasmund Gravem - Antwort

    Got to step 13 and could not remove the 1.3mm screw (yellow circle), even using a different Phillips head screwdriver than the one that came with the kit. So frustrating. Was able to remove the other screws leading up to this point without difficulty (used the saran wrap trick on the other screws to prevent stripping, but this 1.3mm screw just would not budge).

    Ended up abandoning the screen replacement--luckily the phone works after putting it back together.

    Gayle - Antwort

    In my case, the 1.3 screw (yellow) wouldn't tighten on reassembly. I might have tightened too much so that it stripped the screw hole. Anyone know whether this has damaged the board in some way. The phone works fine, but concerned about the long run.

    Casltech - Antwort

  16. iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen: Schritt 16, Bild 1 von 2 iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen: Schritt 16, Bild 2 von 2
    • Heble mit der Kante eines Plastic Opening Tool die Laschen der Kabelabdeckung aus ihren Schlitzen auf der EMI Abschirmung auf dem Logic Board.

    • Entferne die Kabelabdeckung aus dem iPhone, und zwar ausgehend von der Kante, die sich am nächsten an der Oberseite des iPhones befindet.

    If you just very slightly twist this plate clockwise as you are lifting it out, it will help as there is a little hooked piece at the lower edge on the very far right. You have to be careful not to turn it too much though because this hooked piece is right beside a ribbon that could be damaged.

    Trisch - Antwort

    To add to Trisch's comment:

    If turn the plate clockwise doesn't do the trick, the hooked piece on the lower right comes off when you pull the plate towards you a tiny bit. Still, watch out not breaking that ribbon the hooked piece is behind of.

    jasperm - Antwort

    If you're having trouble removing the EMF shield, try using a plastic prying tool to lift the top right part while pushing it ever so slightly downwards with a finger. Consult this video for details: https://youtu.be/8fujLMaxJsw?t=6m42s

    oysteinespedal - Antwort

  17. iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen: Schritt 17, Bild 1 von 2 iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen: Schritt 17, Bild 2 von 2
    • Heble den Stecker der Rückkamera mit der Kante eines Plastic Opening Tool aus seiner Fassung auf dem Logic Board.

    • Achte beim Hebeln darauf, dass du keine Komponenten auf dem umliegenden Bereich auf dem Logic Boards beschädigst.

    • Entferne die Rückkamera aus dem iPhone.

    • Unter der Rückkamera befindet sich eine kleine Gummidichtung. Stelle vor dem Wiederzusammenbau sicher, dass sie richtig eingesetzt ist.

    Im pretty sure that when you reinsert the cam the grounding clip has go to between metal sticker and the cam body, or the camra wont be grounded

    Michael Rygaard - Antwort

    I've got a trouble at this step. Is there anybody who could help me out with my problem? When I was removing the camera module, accidently removed small element, which is marked with the red line http://i63.fastpic.ru/big/2014/1022/4e/9...

    As I figured out - that is the SMD capacitor. After that Iphone was switched on, and it seems to be working fine at the moment, but I am very scared, if it will continue to work well without that small piece. Anybody to help?

    soubi8 - Antwort

    In my case, the grounding clip was taped to the camera! In addition, my repair process stopped at this step as the left screw on the power button had come out and was floating around next to the camera slightly stuck to the tape. This was lucky since a loose screw in an iPhone under the logic board would be a bad omen.

    Michael Scollay - Antwort

  18. iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen, SIM Karte: Schritt 18, Bild 1 von 2 iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen, SIM Karte: Schritt 18, Bild 2 von 2
    • Entferne die SIM-Karte und den SIM-Einschub mit Hilfe eines SIM Card Eject Tools oder einer Büroklammer.

    • Dies kann beträchtlichen Krafteinsatz erfordern.

    • Entferne die SIM-Karte und den Einschub vom iPhone.

    I have an Iphone 4 but the inerds look more like this 4S than the 4, except I do not have a SIM card port. What's up?

    Dave - Antwort

    Probably a CDMA (Verizon) iPhone 4.

    Pepper -

    Is there a reason for waiting until step 18 to remove the sim card and its holder? I can do it right before I start without much force, is this not better?

    jmaelzer - Antwort

    I don't see any reason. So it was my step 1 to remove the SIM card.

    Ida -

    I agree that the SIM card should be removed before you even start. After I completed this repair (waiting until this step to remove the SIM), the SIM card and holders won't go flush with the side of the phone anymore. The phone still works and everything else is fine, it's just annoying that I have a SIM holder sticking out about 1mm. I'm not certain this step caused this, but I'm just letting folks know that I agree with jmaelzer.

    Song - Antwort

    for the life of me I can NOT get this sim card and holder out!

    Lori - Antwort

    While "This may require a significant amount of force." may vary by individual device, I found it to be true. I used a straightened paper clip held with a (really good) pair of needle nose pliers and pushed straight in until it fully popped out.

    Orac -

    To be honest, it's really hard to remove SIM card without a correct tool.

    Beck Sisyphus - Antwort

    You have to PUSH the paperclip IN, then the tray pops OUT.

    Floris Jansen - Antwort

    I agree. Push in.

    ivesrubl -

    ifixit needs to edit this: "significant force" is NOT needed! I started to bend out the hole until I read the last post- just push the tool straight in, the SIM card will eject easily.

    soopamandan - Antwort

    That may depend on the specific device; significant force *was* needed to eject it in the case of the phone I'm working on. Putting it back in, however, was very easy and didn't require any significant effort.

    Orac -

    Is there any reason why you still have the ribbon cable under the little metalic plate (right under the sticker that says "Authorized Service Provider Only") plugged in in STEP 10. And it is without any instruction step removed in STEP 12? I mean it's not like it is complicated, but when I got to that part I was confused there for a minute that I forgot some step, and then reassured myself that I did everything as it said in the manual.

    [deleted] - Antwort

    I have done everything correctly but when i turn the phone on all i get is a blank screen. The phone operates as normal i.e. it rings, vibrates etc but the screen is just blank so you can't actually do anything with it :(

    anyone had the same issue?

    mark - Antwort

    FWIW, I found it easier to replace during re-assembly by turning the phone front-side up, as on the Sprint-locked one I was working on, the SIM card faces that way. Otherwise, it tends to fall out (down) while trying to re-insert it if the phone is face down.

    Orac - Antwort

    Popped the SIM card holder out no prob - but there’s no SIM card. This is a Virgin Mobile phone, does that matter?

    Ray - Antwort

    There is a rubber spring that fits on the power button hinged wire bar that slipped out of place here (button was stuck, no click), take a look at it here: http://geulah.net/test/

    uhf mhz - Antwort

  19. iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen, Logic Board: Schritt 19, Bild 1 von 2 iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen, Logic Board: Schritt 19, Bild 2 von 2
    • Entferne die fünf Kabel, die sich an der Oberseite des Logic Boards befinden, in der folgenden Reihenfolge:

    • Kopfhörerbuchsen-/Lautstärkereglerkabel

    • Kabel der Frontkamera

    • Touchscreen Kabel

    • Displaydatenkabel

    • Power Button Kabel (befindet sich unterhalb des Kopfhörerbuchsen-/Lautstärkereglerkabels, wie im zweiten Foto dargestellt ist)

    • Um die Kabel zu trennen, hebe mit einem Plastic Opening Tool die Steckverbindungen hoch und entferne sie aus ihren Halterungen auf dem Logic Board.

    • Achte darauf, keine der kleinen und empfindlichen auf der Oberfläche installierten Komponenten zu beschädigen, wenn du die Kabel trennst.

    There is an additional cable that you have to disconnect that's under the headphone jack cable. You have to do this before you try to remove the logic board. Otherwise, you'll rip that cable.. and I just freaking did.

    Dennis - Antwort

    The digitizer cable won't reach! I've already ripped it off once. which disconnect are you talking about?

    kct16k -

    I just ripped off the power cable ... i can live without the power button though!

    Oreste Attanasio - Antwort

    is that sarcasm or is there really a way to turn on the phone without the power button?

    Sharn de Wet -

    The only way to turn on an iPhone without a power button is to plug it in to power. If it was shut down while connected to a sync cable then disconnect and reconnect for it to turn on.

    Ben -

    I just broke off the power button as well because I forgot to disconnect the cable. Thank goodness for chargers and assistive touch!

    grilledsoap -

    Need to remove the shield over the connectors first. Look at the other guides for the 4S they show the 4 screws and how to lift the shield out, take out the camera etc.

    Paul - Antwort

    True, these steps are missing from the instructions. See for example 15-17 steps here: iPhone 4S Display ersetzen

    zzkovacs -

    During reassembly, I noticed that the data display cable is rather stiff. It may be a bit tricky to get it reconnected, but you'll know once it's in.

    bsporer3 - Antwort

    That power cable connector is very delicate. I managed to tear it just a tiny bit in the curve of the cable too. So I’ve got another part on order now. Apart from that the screen replacement went great ;) I’m not sure at which step the tear actually happened, it might have been during re-assembly when I was trying to get all these cables to stay on top of rather than go behind the motherboard. Realizing how easy that is to tear and keeping that in mind as you do this is important.

    james - Antwort

    I ripped the power button cable(didn't see it), any chance it could be outlined with a dotted color in the future? (I'm bad at reading the warnings)

    Eli Goethel - Antwort

    It was a lot easier for me to use a fingernail to remove these cables. It provides a lot less force, and is more likely to remove the cables without damaging them as they are very easy to break.

    jack jones - Antwort

  20. iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen: Schritt 20, Bild 1 von 1
    • Entferne die 1,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, mit welcher der Erdungsclip nahe der Kopfhörerbuchse am Logic Board festgemacht ist.

    During reassembly, note that this small 1.5 mm screw goes into a thread in the head of the larger 4.8 mm standoff screw near the headphone jack.

    gregm - Antwort

  21. iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen: Schritt 21, Bild 1 von 2 iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen: Schritt 21, Bild 2 von 2
    • Heble mit der Spitze eines Spudgers den kleinen Erdungsclip vom Logic Board weg.

    • Greife den Erdungsclip vorsichtig und entferne ihn vom iPhone.

    • Vor dem Wiederzusammenbau, reinige alle Metallkontakte am Erdungsclip (nicht die sich treffenden Hälften der Steckverbindungen) mit einem Entfetter. Die Fette an deinen Händen können Erdungsprobleme verursachen.

    (be careful but gently forceful; the part doesn't come out without effort)

    Carol Wade - Antwort

    Prying this off took the most effort as it's a squarish 'C' clip with two small 'teeth' like points that grip the bottom.

    Ferd Roseboom - Antwort

    You can use the edge of a plastic opening tool to easily lift the other side of the grounding clip.

    Grigory Entin - Antwort

    Top for taking the grounding clip off: use the spudger on that end, and use a prying tool ever so slightly on the opposite end to get it out of that little part catching it, then it will come out easily.

    Lua Tech - Antwort

    • Entferne die 4,8 mm Abstandsschraube nahe der Kopfhörerbuchse.

    • Abstandsschrauben lassen sich am Besten mit einem Abstandsschrauben-Schraubendreher oder-Bit herausdrehen.

    • Es geht zur Not auch mit einem kleinen Flachschraubendreher - sei aber extra vorsichtig, dass du dabei nicht abrutschst und umliegende Bauteile beschädigst.

    I used a metal spudger from the Pro Tech Toolkit to remove the standoff, seemed to work better for me than a flathead screwdriver.

    Dirk Blom - Antwort

    The flathead screwdriver provided is much too small to remove this piece!

    gluethje76 - Antwort

    I recommend that steps 20 and 21 are swapped. It's much easier to remove the wifi antenna flex from the board using the blue spudger if the board/PCB is still secured with the 4.8mm screw.

    Removing the screw first makes the PCB move up too much when you're trying to detach the wifi flex and can lead to mishaps.

    Paul L Daniels - Antwort

    Not all screwdrivers are equal. I took mine in the shop and ground the blade thinner then made sure the end was square and flat. You can do this with an emery board or sand paper. You want a good fit in the stand-offs.

    griffn - Antwort

    The iFixIt standoff screwdriver is a great help.

    Lua Tech - Antwort

  22. iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen: Schritt 23, Bild 1 von 1
    • Trenne mit einem Plastic Opening Tool die Wi-Fi Antenne vom Logic Board.

    Great Guide and thanks. Now...what if i snapped the wifi antenna cable together with its male connector from the board? Like tearing it apart ? Can this be replaced by any chance? Thanks!

    spyrosandreou - Antwort

    I also had a problem with the connector breaking off, but after putting everything together, the WiFi seems to work like before, so I guess there is no problem there...

    Dirk Blom - Antwort

    Ok so no fret here if you accidentally pull off the metal insert placed on top of the actual antenna. This step needs to be rewritten imo, the deal here is that there is an actual 'socket' looking deal underneath here that you need to lift up. There is a metal tab semi'glued' to that part of the antenna and it does come off easily, however all you need to do is press them back together to get them back, I believe it to be a range 'extender' of sorts.

    So your looking to actually lift up what looks a lot like a ribbon cable as well in this step. YOU SHOULD NOT HAVE A PIECE REMOVED IN THIS STEP, it's still in the case at this point.

    Ben - Antwort

    I have connected my wifi antenna to the phone but when my phone switches on the wifi button is a grey colour and won't let me turn it on, help?

    melissamerin -

    When reassembly - take care with flat cable, which might be pushing connector to side. If so - I found easy to put connector in place before tightening screws on step 23 and 22. Because then logic board can move a bit when repositioning connector and to slide right place before connecting it properly.

    Samuel Lackman - Antwort

  23. iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen: Schritt 24, Bild 1 von 2 iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen: Schritt 24, Bild 2 von 2
    • Falls vorhanden, entferne das Stückchen schwarzes Tape, welches die versteckte Schraube nahe des Power Buttons verdeckt.

    • Entferne die 2,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, die das Logic Board nahe des Power Buttons befestigt.

    • Sei vorsichtig, wenn du diese Schraube und den mit ihr befestigten Powerkontakt entfernst; die Kontaktlasche wird sich mit der Schraube lösen.

    • Beachte den kleinen Gummipuffer unter den Bildschirm & Digitizer Kabeln (die über dem QR-Code angebracht sind). Dieser Puffer kann sich beim Entfernen des Logic Boards lösen oder an den Kabeln hängenbleiben und sich später lösen.

    Dimension given are Length of screw. I think it meant to say 2.6mm screw.

    Jon - Antwort

    Note that there is a rubber insulator that is loosely attached to the PBC that can be seen in the upper right corner of the red outline near the tag with Q5M on it. It falls off after the logic board is removed and should be replaced before reassembly.

    ghodges - Antwort

    where the heck does it go back on the logic board?! It fell off during removal and I cant seem to locate it in the pictures. :(

    Shaun Brown -

    As noted: Put the bumper back right above the white bar code label. The label says Q5M on the far right side. The bumper goes on the edge of the board to protect the ribbon cables that bend over the board.

    griffn -

    So, my 2.6 Philips screw near the power cable just spins and spins. It happened the first time, so I know I didn't strip it. Any ideas?

    thebacks - Antwort

    So, I couldn't gind the tape and instead of digging around. I did what no one should do. I twisted and pulled. So now the screw that holds the upper left corner on broke that part of the logic board off. Everything else went back great....Phone won't turn on. Am I screwed here?

    cdays01 - Antwort

    step 13 - “One 1.3 mm Phillips screw”

    step -22 “Notice the small rubber bumper under the screen & digitizer cables (which are detached at top above the Q-code)”

    “Note that there is a rubber insulator that is loosely attached to the PBC that can be seen in the upper right corner of the red outline near the tag with Q5M on it”

    now, the problem :-)

    while assembly the iPhone I screw by mistake the 2.6 mm instead of the 1.3, and without noticing I break the 1.3 base screw from the motherboard :-/

    Now, the rear camera is not working.

    I couldn't figure in the picture above, if the rubber bumper you mean, is under that screw or above the Q5M tag ?

    Can it be that the dewar camera don’t work because of that broken screw?

    Any idea how to fix it?

    Is there any option to buy the rubber bumper, if I lost it ?

    Appreciate any help,


    Simon - Antwort

    Under the screw is a ground clip from step 25. I tweezed it out here since it might bounce free while pulling logic board out. Use a big white towel as a work surface to prevent wayward bouncing bits from flying off the table.

    griffn - Antwort

    Caution: the image with the QR code is "mirrored" --> look at it "reversed" !

    jacquesfforster - Antwort

    If your driver is just spinning in this step, you may be trying to turn the offset screw instead of the phillips screw beneath the tape. The tape is not obvious, and I found tweezers helpful when removing it.

    Rog - Antwort

  24. iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen: Schritt 25, Bild 1 von 1
    • Entferne die folgenden Schrauben, mit denen das Logic Board am Gehäuse befestigt ist:

    • Eine 2,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube am Vibrationsmotor

    • Eine 2,4 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube

    • Eine 3,6 mm Abstandsschraube an der Seite des Logic Boards nahe des Akkufaches.

    • Verwende ein Abstandsschraubenbit und einen Bithalter, um die einzelne 3,6 mm Abstandsschraube zu entfernen.

    • Es geht zur Not auch mit einem kleinen Flachschraubendreher - sei aber extra vorsichtig, dass du dabei nicht abrutschst und umliegende Bauteile beschädigst.

    I used a metal spudger from the Pro Tech Toolkit to remove the standoff, seemed to work better for me than a flathead screwdriver.

    Dirk Blom - Antwort

    The Kit Provided flat head screw driver didn't fit in the stand off screw heads on my IPhone 4s. I had to use it in only one side of the screw notch to slowly twist them out. Its doable but could use a larger flat head, but the blade needs to be micro thin.

    Clay - Antwort

    I wound up stripping one of the screws on this step. Was frustrating but I found if I too a sharp knife and gently went back n forth I was able to make a little notch to use a flat head and got it off. Other than that all went well.

    Christopher Imhoff - Antwort

  25. iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen: Schritt 26, Bild 1 von 1
    • Hebe das Logic Board, ausgehend vom Ende des Lautsprechergehäuses, und schiebe es von der Oberkante des iPhones weg.

    • Entferne das Logic Board.

    • Vor dem Wiederzusammenbau, reinige alle Metallkontakte am Logic Board (nicht die sich treffenden Hälften der Steckverbindungen) mit einem Entfetter. Die Fette an deinen Händen können Erdungsprobleme verursachen.

    • Es befindet sich ein kleiner Gummipuffer an der Oberkante des Logic Boards, wo die Digitizer und Bildschirmkabel aus dem Gehäuse kommen. Er schützt die Kabel dort, wo sie über der Oberkante des Logic Boards liegen. Er kann entweder an den Kabeln hängen bleiben oder vom Logic Board abfallen, wenn es entfernt wird.

    After I had lifted the logic board and moved around a little a small rubber piece fell off. Approx. 1 cm long and 2 mm wide. I'm guessing it's for some sort of isolation between the board and the chassis. Where should it go when I reassemble the phone?

    The piece I'm referring to can be seen on the table in the upper right corner in this video: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IVQtgD89e...

    Simon Fransson - Antwort

    It sits between the logic board top-edge and the two ribbon leads from the screen. Its purpose is to stop the PCB cutting in to the FPC leads over time due to vibrations. If you require I can send a photo.

    Paul L Daniels -

    hey, i removed the logic board and gave it a bit isopropanol spray. is this ok? how can i found out if it is working? is it possible to remove something from the logic board? thank you :)

    bne - Antwort

    On reassembly, make sure you lift up the power button cable before installing circuit board. I thought I had all of the cables lifted until after getting to step 17 (in reverse) only to find out power cable was under the circuit board. Added 15 minutes to my process.

    juanocasio - Antwort

    I had a similar problem as I was back tracking steps to perform something I missed and actually broken the power and sensor cable (the one that is connected to the digital board first during re-installation. A secondary order and another 20 minutes took care of it. Glad you were able to not hit that barrier.

    mattwilber -

    On reassembly, you are putting the plate under the spaghetti. I went back a few times to get all the cables out. Here is a check list before you tighten any logic board screws or try to jam the top edge of the board in place:

    Counter clockwise from upper right near power button:

    - Wi-Fi Cable from step 21

    - 5 cables near the camera from step 17.The ‘blue’ power cable underneath loves to hide. The ‘orange’ front facing camera cable can get kinked under the board during re-install (no more selfies on this phone).

    - Dock cable from step 9

    - Cell Antenna from step 11

    Go slow. Look twice.

    griffn - Antwort

    Before logic board re assembly it is nice to use scotch tape ( temporarily) to bend all the connections above the battery compartment . Doing as such avoid to have the power button connection remaining below the logic board .

    thierry28722 - Antwort

  26. iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen: Schritt 27, Bild 1 von 1
    • Achte darauf, den kleinen Erdungsring für die Rückkamera beim Power Button nicht zu verlieren. Dieser wird oberhalb der Platine angeschraubt und mit schwarzem Klebetape bedeckt.

    if I LOSE it, what will happen?

    Actually, i DID lose it.

    XuKaimeng - Antwort

    Hi. This little clip is responsible for the image stabilization on the 4S. When the iPhone 4S was launched, one of the things that were different from iPhone 4 was Image Stabilization, specially when the user was filming. This clip holds the camera module in place while the phone is shaking in the hands of the user. Pretty high tech :D

    Pedro de Almeida Silva Chaves -

    Apparently it had uncovered my iPhone before, because when I did not find this piece uncapped here. I need to know which function is on the iPhone and if it is very important. How could I get?

    Raul Tejada - Antwort

    Hi, I had the phone apart to replace the wifi chip.

    Has anyone found a source for the two nano sized SMD resistors, because this also causes "no wifi" syndrome due to them being important for the I2C lines.

    thanks!!! -A email testing_h "at " yahoo.com

    Andre De Guerin - Antwort

    I think this is one of the parts I didn't put back in... Does it affect anything?

    Also, Took apart my iPhone 4S to fix the screen and battery... Now the camera light doesn't turn on and I'm left with two pieces. Help!

    Here are the parts: http://imgur.com/DsYtdlR

    Nicole - Antwort

    Left part: See step 5 - "Take notice of the small black ground clip on the upper screw of the battery connector".

    Right part: See step 25 - "Be sure not to lose the small grounding finger for the rear facing camera near the power button".

    Simon Fransson -

    I removed this in step 22 even though it only slightly alluded to it. If you did, too, don't panic. Go find your step 22 parts and verify it is there. :)

    christopherjwells - Antwort

    What are the consequences of losing the 'small grounding finger for the rear view camera'?

    3chris3rivers3 - Antwort

    Hi. This little clip is responsible for the image stabilization on the 4S.

    Pedro de Almeida Silva Chaves -

    I did it. No problems!!!

    I used a Tupperware orange peeler as a plastic opening tool and didn't touched any screws oder other inner parts.

    I had to do it two times, because my old 4S 64GB has a broken WLAN Chip on the logic board, and my wifes 4S has broken her display glass. So I took her logic board into my 4S body. Now we have one running iPhone 4S 64GB instead of two broken phones.

    HaJo - Antwort

    HELP! Miy clip does look different, and i have no idea how to fit it in

    slipknot660 - Antwort

    This little piece was missing when I opened my phone, seems it was lost last time I sent it to the repair shop for screen replacement.. :-( but it does take pictures

    Jose Fernandez - Antwort

  27. iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen, Frontkamera: Schritt 28, Bild 1 von 2 iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen, Frontkamera: Schritt 28, Bild 2 von 2
    • Heble die metallene Halterung der Frontkamera vorsichtig mit der Kante eines Plastic Opening Tool vom iPhone Gehäuse weg.

    • Entferne die Halterung der Frontkamera.

    This is really hard to get out. I broke 2 plastic spudgers (cheap/free) trying this

    david - Antwort

    it might be an idea to mention that the retainer has three tiny little clips that point outwards from the camera and while taking it off is hard, putting it back on is even harder

    david - Antwort

    Step 26 cause me great pain as well. I couldn't get it loose with the plastic spudgers. I had to break out a tiny metal screwdriver. I was so paranoid that I was going to break the part or the clip. The trick is to get under the clip's "fingers" that fasten it on the sides. The issue is that even my small my plastic spudger was too big to fit in the available space. Ultimately I got it to work with a micro flathead screwdriver, but it wasn't without serious concern.

    Song - Antwort

    Using a micro flathead screwdriver did the trick. I found that prying from the top right corner worked best.

    Dan - Antwort

    Yes, this is hard. It would be a lot easier if the guide had a picture of the retainer clip. I was successful with a spludger by lifting it on the upper left hand corner. Once you have it off, have a good look at it before putting it back on. Remember that it clips to the outside of the camera housing.

    olafgoy - Antwort

    The clip has a hole and a groove. This is good enough to grab it with some pin tweezers from the top when replacing it.

    olafgoy - Antwort


    it is unnecessary to remove this plate or the front camera. its very difficult to remove and very difficult to replace. totally unnecessary step. just be careful moving the flex cables around, that's the only thing that is in the way, the camera does not hinder the power/sensor cable.

    Andrew - Antwort

    fyi my comment is based off replacing the power cable not the front camera, apparently the guides are just copied off one another. again, this is one of the hardest things ive done on an iPhone. if you are fixing the power cable, DO NOT pull out the front camera, NOT NEEDED and VERY HARD. im currently still trying to re-install the cover plate.

    Andrew -

    YES, DO NOT TAKE THIS PART OFF. The reason the guide says to take it off is because in step 30, it might get in the way. If you be a little more careful, the cable coming from the camera won't be a problem. However, if you do take the retainer and the camera off, you should expect your repair to last a couple more hours. I have spent several hours on some repairs trying to put the retainer back on, and then realized that it was 90% useless to do so.

    Lolman Sherb -

    I totally agree with Andrew, when changing the power and sensor cable, do not do this step. It is absolutely unnecessary and only increases the pain when reassembling your phone. That step should not be in the guide for the power cable replacement.

    corgold - Antwort

    I agree with Andrew, this step is not needed.

    Niels - Antwort

    If you are replacing the headphone jack, DO NOT DO THIS STEP! It's totally unnecessary.

    nikbrauer - Antwort

    Based on comments here, I skipped this step fixing the power button and it was fine, you have a little less room to remove the earpiece wrapped in the power cable but if the removal was as hard as people describe, it was easily worth it.

    davisyang - Antwort

    I could not reassemble the retainer. The legs would not go back to where they were meant to go and I badly bent one in the process. I replaced the retainer with a small dop of Blu-Tack ("a reusable putty-like pressure-sensitive adhesive"). This gets squashed down when you replace the logic board. This keeps the camera correctly positioned and works OK so far.

    gregm - Antwort

    If youare changed the earpiece you can skip step 26 till 31. got to step 32 and remove the black clip without disassembly the earpiece assembly and then tear of the speaker. follow the steps of the crazyphones on youtube guide.

    mikenuke - Antwort

    thank you!!!

    Robert Gerick -

    I think the key to getting this clip on is knowing that the fingers do not clip on the inside of the retainer, but slide over the top and the 'elbow' locks in the retainer openings. This makes it a ton easier.

    Keith - Antwort

    There is no need to remove the front facing camera or power button/flex. At this point you can just remove the retainer clip over the sensor assembly, pry the sensor assembly from it's holder, bring it back over and clear of the earpiece speaker, carefully pry the speaker from the frame, replace the speaker with new one, reassemble.

    bearzac - Antwort

    Getting this off with a micro flat head is best - putting it back on you need to slightly flare out the little fingers on the side two (facing top and bottom of phone-just enough to make getting it back on easie. Then using ifixit flat tweezers you can get in and pinch the fingers closed again once it's on.

    pastorryanoconnor1 - Antwort

    I quickly regretted not having read the comments to this step and the next one. When replacing the power/sensor cable, this step isn’t necessary, provided you are careful enough with the earpiece speaker and the sensors which are next to the front facing camera.

    DO NOT DO THIS unless you are sure you have to. This step and the next one are not necessary when replacing the power and sensor cable.

    It is very very difficult to fix the front camera retainer again after removing it.

    Access Denied - Antwort

    are the metal clips on the bracket supposed to go inside or outside?

    TheYootz Media Group - Antwort

  28. iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen: Schritt 29, Bild 1 von 1
    • Entferne die Frontkamera.

  29. iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen, Power Button: Schritt 30, Bild 1 von 2 iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen, Power Button: Schritt 30, Bild 2 von 2
    • Entferne die beiden 1,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, welche die Power Button Klammer am Außengehäuse festmachen.

    • Sei mit den Displaykabeln, die den Zugang zur rechten Schraube erschweren können, besonders vorsichtig. Die Kabel können leicht beschädigt werden.

    • Lupfe die Power Button Klammer etwas vom Außengehäuse weg.

    This is the most dangerous step of all !!! You have to be VERY careful with the digitizer and screen ribbon cables when you bend it back to unscrew lock button. It is best to partially remove the screen so that you can get the cables out of the way (you've already disassembled most of the phone anyway, a little more won't hurt). The first time that I did this repair, I ended up damaging the cable and my screen was useless. Many people that I have talked to suggest the same thing!

    Felipe Da Cruz - Antwort

    This exact thing happened to me. Be very careful as a cheaper power/sensor cable repair can quickly turn into a more expensive screen replacement as well.

    umagon1337 -

    My screen is stuffed too. All because I bent the cables like the photo.

    Stephen Shaw -

    Yea, this went wrong in my attempted repair last night. It would be really great if step 28 included a warning here, or insert a step to remove the screen so those ribbon cables are safely out of the way!

    I can't tell you how disappointing it is to find the cause of my failed repair in hidden comments 8^(

    bdv - Antwort

    Another solution for this step is to carefully push the digitizer and screen ribbon cables down (into the back of the front screen) instead of bending them back. If you do this carefully, you can minimize how much the cables bend and still have enough clearance to angle a screwdriver in from the top to remove the rightmost screw.

    This worked for me without damaging the cables. I did not have to remove the front screen either.

    Michael Huynh - Antwort

    I tried this and it worked, thanks. I was worried with the comments about damaged video connectors, but everything luckily worked after putting it back together and powering on.

    davisyang -

    Also, if your "power button is stuck", you may not have to replace the whole power cable. After you unscrew the power button bracket, you should see a small black dot in the center of the gold colored area (where the button makes contact). Usually, stuck power buttons mean that either this black dot has worn away or has been shifted/misaligned. If the black dot is misaligned, put it back in the center and test if this has solved the issue. If the black dot does not exist, find/cut a small piece of rubber and carefully glue it to the center of the gold area. I cut a small piece of rubber from a thin o-ring and then used a dab of superglue to attach the rubber. Another commenter used nailpolish instead of rubber to create enough height to contact the power button. After all of this, screw the power bracket back on and test the power button. If the power button does not click, it may be that you screwed the bracket on too tightly such that the button is always depressed. Loosen the bracket screws.

    Michael Huynh - Antwort

    I guess this is where I lost the screen. In any event... the power button now works, and I have sound, but no picture. I can't even punch in my PIN to reformat the phone and give it away.

    steve - Antwort

    Btw, this was written in the comments for the 4S Power Button and Sensor Replacement, so if you see it anywhere else, caveat lector

    steve -

    I was careful but I did kill half the digitizer, presume a broken cable and will sell it for parts.

    paulverket - Antwort

    The right hand screw thread stripped on my repair. I reassembled it with only the left hand screw holding it in and it is working OK.

    gregm - Antwort

  30. iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen: Schritt 31, Bild 1 von 2 iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen: Schritt 31, Bild 2 von 2
    • Entferne den Power Button mit einer Pinzette vom iPhone.

    • Achte beim Wiederzusammenbau auf die korrekte Ausrichtung des Power Buttons. Die Metallschleife sollte nach unten schauen und die nach außen stehenden Kanten oben liegen.

  31. iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen, Strom- und Sensorkabel Einheit: Schritt 32, Bild 1 von 2 iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen, Strom- und Sensorkabel Einheit: Schritt 32, Bild 2 von 2
    • Heble die Ohrhörer/Lautsprecher Einheit mit einem Plastic Opening Tool von dem Kleber, mit dem es am äußeren Gehäuse festgemacht ist ab. Beachte, dass auch das Kabel des Power Buttons am Außengehäuse festgemacht ist und weggehebelt werden muss.

    • Hole die Ohrhörer/Lautsprecher Einheit mit einer Pinzette aus der Vertiefung im Außengehäuse.

    • Achte darauf, dass das Kabel von der Ohrhörer/Lautsprecher Einheit nicht abreißt. Sie sind miteinander verklebt und das Kabel ist sehr empfindlich.

    Maybe it's just me, but I had a hard time getting the earpiece out as it was wrapped in the ribbon cable and also had adhesive on it. Folks should be super careful here. Ultimately I torn the cable, but since I was replacing it anyway, it was ok. It really had me worried for a bit.

    Song - Antwort

    how are you supposed to stick the new wiring to the bits ?

    This isnt worth doing.. Run the risk of your light sensor not working, and the lock button still not working.

    12345 - Antwort

    i haven't done it yet but im looking at a replacement part and mine has double sided tape already affixed to the flex cable to secure it.

    Im doing this job for a friend as trade for free haircuts lol

    Andrew -

    Waste of time.. I did this to fix my lock button. all it did was make my light sensor not work. lock button still doesnt work.

    piece of !@#$

    12345 - Antwort

    "Do not completely remove the earpiece speaker as it is still attached to the power and sensor cable assembly."

    I just have one question: why?

    It appears from the photos that there is enough play on the sensor/power cables to remove the earpiece speaker in this step if you're careful; avoiding steps 31 and 32 and jumping to 33. Any help would be great as I am about to attempt an earpiece speaker replacement tomorrow.

    ladjr - Antwort

    I've torn the corner of the power ribben, the bottom right hand corner of the loop below the speaker. Will the ribben still work or do I need a new power ribben?

    Doodling101 - Antwort

  32. iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen: Schritt 33, Bild 1 von 2 iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen: Schritt 33, Bild 2 von 2
    • Bewege die obere Sensoreinheit mit einem Plastic Opening Tool weg vom Außengehäuse.

    • Heble die obere Sensoreinheit vorsichtig vom Außengehäuse ab.

    I had a terrible time with this step, which doesn't mention that the tiny black clip holds the sensor in place. I finally got the clip off, and the sensor out, but the tiny black clip was deformed and I had a horrible time getting it back into place. All of the various ribbon cables are really working against you, too. The black clip is so tiny that it's very hard to align properly on the sensor (it wants to flip onto it's back and "turtle") and often pressing on it to snap it back into place simply bends it rather than locking it on.

    I had accidentally broken the ribbon cable near the logic board connector for this whole assembly; now that the phone is back together, everything works EXCEPT the light sensor that I had to manipulate so extensively. I'm assuming I damaged either that portion of the cable, or the sensor itself, struggling to get it back into place with the clip.

    Jason - Antwort

    IMPORTANT. As Jason mentions, there is a small black metal clip which you MUST remove first. It's actually got hooked ends so if you grab it from the middle and pull it will simply deform. Instead grab a small flat head screwdriver and place the flat of the blade under the metal clip - come in from the top at the point where the tiny hole is, then move the tool to the left (toward the speaker jack). It should ping the hook out (be careful it doesn't launch across the room!) and the piece will then just drop out.

    Dave - Antwort

    READ - as Dave & Jason have both pointed out, the small black clip needs removing first.

    This clip has two legs with inward facing prongs that extend down either side of the housing.

    The leg on the left side appears to locate into a hole at the base of the housing, the right side slides back and forth in a horizontal slot.

    I found the easiest way to remove is to first push the ribbon cable as flat as possible, to allow for the clip to slide over it, and with a small flat blade screwdriver come in vertically, don't try to get under the clip, in the top right corner between the clip and the housing.

    Twist you screwdriver clockwise and you'll see the right side of the clip slide downwards toward the speaker end of your phone. Keep pushing this side until the prong clears the housing, then use tweezers to unhook the left prong.

    Jim - Antwort

    If you turn the phone over, there is an ‘access hole’ where you can access the power-button side of the clip. I poked tweezers through and pried the clip and it came off with relative ease. I got lucky I guess! Hope this helps others! I took a picture and will try to post it if I can. JD

    Jon Dawes - Antwort

  33. iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen: Schritt 34, Bild 1 von 3 iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen: Schritt 34, Bild 2 von 3 iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen: Schritt 34, Bild 3 von 3
    • Hebe und entferne die Strom- und Sensorkabel Einheit vom iPhone.

    • Achte darauf, den kleinen Haltebügel auf der oberen Sensoreinheit nicht zu verlieren.

    I lost the clip.. now what do I do?

    Helen - Antwort

    I found a bit tricky to refasten the little clip. I found it easier to fasten it right-side-first.

    Niels - Antwort

    How to re install this little clip ?

    Forgot how I removed it and now I am stuck for re installment ....

    thierry28722 - Antwort

    eventually , I got it right , after at least one hour , with the help of Jason : Tip : when removing this clip , take a photo of it for re assembly .Before re assembly : re bend this clip right as it may have change chape . Place the sensors , put the clip above and put the right side on position below the two sensors then , push gently on the left by bending away with a small screwdriver, release and it may be locked.

    This clip goes above the earpiece assembly .To get away with all the cables , glue them away temporarily with scotch on the battery compartment.

    thierry28722 - Antwort

  34. iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen, Ohrhörer/Lautsprecher Einheit: Schritt 35, Bild 1 von 2 iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen, Ohrhörer/Lautsprecher Einheit: Schritt 35, Bild 2 von 2
    • Löse mit der Kante eines Platsic Opening Tools Ohrhörer und Lautsprecher von dem Schaumkleber, mit dem sie am iPhone festgemacht sind.

    • Wenn du den Ohrhörer und Lautsprecher wiederverwenden willst, versuche den Schaumkleber, mit dem sie am iPhone Gehäuse festgemacht sind, nicht abzulösen.

    • Entferne Ohrhörer und Lautsprecher.

    Go ahead and order a new speaker - its nearly impossible not to break the foam

    nweeks - Antwort

    The foam can be replaced by similar double side tape.

    davidsotl -

    Tools plus parts plus shipping (FedEx) costs me about $100. Probably would cost about the same to have some do it for me, but what's the fun in that! The small magnetic mat is a must have, so handy.

    davidsotl - Antwort

    Agree with "nweeks" on it being impossible not to break the foam. However, I reinstalled without the foam. Since the earpiece is wrapped in the ribbon cable and it's also very securely contained in the recess, I can't see the foam adding a ton of value. My phone worked fine after I reused the earpiece without any new foam.

    Song - Antwort

    Its really easy to remove the foam and tape intact and re-use. grab an exacto blade and slice in between the flex cable and foam, once you have the edge started it will sparate pretty easily. dont worry about damaging the cable, you're replacing that anyway.

    Andrew - Antwort

    I tried this and it worked easily. Thanks for the tip.

    davisyang -

    Does it matter which orientation the earpiece gets reattached to the cable?

    Robert Lindsley - Antwort

    The second piece of tape was missing on the new speaker I purchased. The speaker buzzes for voice except for loud/slow speaking.

    wmarkwitherspoon - Antwort

    On reassembly, fix the earphone speaker before the top sensor assembly. The first step is to glue the Power and Sensor Cable down on the iPhone base. Then put the earphone speaker on top of the cable, oriented as in the photos. Then bend the cable over the speaker and reassemble the top sensor assembly.

    gregm - Antwort

    Note: be sure that the foam on your brand-new replacement sticker is centered properly! Mine was originally glued down onto the speaker improperly - off-center. This made the foam touch the actual speaker diaphragm instead of just sitting on the case, and made it extremely quiet - almost inaudible. It took two tear-downs for me to think of trying to re-seat the foam, but it immediately fixed the problem.

    jil24 - Antwort

  35. iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen, Strom- und Sensorkabel: Schritt 36, Bild 1 von 1
    • Löse mit der Kante eines Plastiköffnungswerkzeugs den Power Button Kontakt von seiner Kunststoffhalterung.

  36. iPhone 4S Strom- und Sensorkabel ersetzen: Schritt 37, Bild 1 von 1
    • Das Strom- und Sensorkabel bleibt übrig.

    I have my new Power and sensor cable. It has new tabs with white paper tabs. I'm unable to determine if there are new sticky areas to reattach everything. Any words of wisdom?

    JimBo - Antwort

    I figured it out, the new tabs have SMALL new strips of tape on them. Just have to scrape it a little to see them...

    JimBo -

    I'm wondering if it would be a good idea to bend/crease the new ribbon cable to match the bends and creases from the old ribbon cable, (being careful not to damage or break new cable), to aid reassembly of the phone as it was like trying to get a jack in the box back in the box as it were... just a thought.

    Jim - Antwort


Arbeite die Schritte in umgekehrter Reihenfolge ab, um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen.

530 weitere Nutzer:innen haben diese Anleitung absolviert.

Besonderer Dank geht an diese Übersetzer:innen:

en de


Diese Übersetzer:innen helfen uns, die Welt zu reparieren! Wie kann ich mithelfen?
Beginne zu übersetzen ›

20 Kommentare

The #00 Phillips and 2.5 mm flat head screwdrivers that are suggested tools are too big. I needed to use a #000 Phillips and 5/64 in flat head screwdrivers.

Brian Clark - Antwort

Difficulty: MODERATE? Then why is the vibrator replacement guide DIFFICULT? I think these need to be switch around guys...

sgreffe - Antwort

This repair will destroy your soul. I would not recommend even attempting it without even more specialized tools (eye loupe, headlamp, preternatural patience) as it is extraordinarily easy to ruin your phone with one quick misstep. I've thrown in the towel after weeks of attempting the job. After ripping the screen cable for the second and final time, I'm selling for parts.

mikemckinnon - Antwort

i did the repair, and my power button is now working, however the loudspeaker is now very pour and i have a lot of noise on then screen when i make a cal, the sensor is working fine, but when i move the phone and look at the screen it is going "crazy" what have i done wrong?

Henrik - Antwort

i replace my lcd and my power sensor backlights turn on but display doesn't show anything any solution????

Zadd - Antwort

I agree with comments made.

This is more than moderately difficult.

It is doable, but not if you have never done any repairs, have short patience, or don't have micro tools.

The parts are much smaller than older iPhones i've worked on. I could not have done it without head magnifiers. I have 40+ year old eyes, your eyes may be better.

A phillips 000 worked better for me throughout in place of 00 phillips.

davisyang - Antwort

Look very carefully at the actual replacement part before starting and try to understand how it folds and wraps around the earpiece. (the part from fixit comes flat- if you orient it with the round power switch toward with upper left, the rectangular piece in the center with a hole in it is where the earpiece is attached with sticky foam. The bottom right "leg" folds up and over the earpiece and attaches to a bracket above the earpiece, held down by a metal clip. The left "leg" is in approximately the right position but has 2 right angle bends in the final 3d configuration ending in a plane higher than when flat. The upper left "arm" folds up and wraps over the plastic power button bracket.)

The last steps made a lot more sense after I got this, but I had to disassemble it to understand and had torn one of the ribbon in the process, lucky I was replacing it anyways.

davisyang - Antwort

Difficulty: Moderate? This is a very involved tear down that took me quite a few hours. I have new respect for how it's made and won't do it again. I did kill half the digitizer, presume a broken cable and will sell it for parts.

paulverket - Antwort

A remarkable guide. Very precise with no surprises. Did the entire replacement without a hitch. Thanks!!

Anant - Antwort

Replaced this because the power button was slightly depressed, "spongy", required a lot of force to activate. Proximity sensor was also flaky. Since the repair I have the following issues:

1) Power button is still spongy, no audible/tactile "click" sound/sensation. Suspect the cable was not the cause of the original physical button issue (as others had suggested)

QUESTION: What should I look at next for the physical button issue? The bracket that holds the power button/cable against the outer casing seemed fine physically, but maybe not?

2) Power button is hyper sensitive, acts as if it's "stuck". When pressed once it acts as if it's held down. Tapping it very lightly will sometimes initiate a single press (i.e. lock the phone) 95% of the time it acts like it's held down (i.e. nothing happen then seconds later it shows the "slide to power off" screen).

QUESTION: Does this sound like a flaky connection issue, bad/damaged cable? What should I investigate?

Digital Oxygen Photography - Antwort

Guys i have just did this repair for the very first time and this is very do able with these items:

Pro tech toolkit> [verlinktes Produkt fehlt oder ist deaktiviert: IF145-072-1]

iPhone iScrew phone trays> [verlinktes Produkt fehlt oder ist deaktiviert: IF145-261-3]

and of coarse your parts> [verlinktes Produkt fehlt oder ist deaktiviert: IF115-011-2]

The said instructions provided are spot on and fantastic. The protool kit has everything you need to work on small precision electronics as far as opening and disassembly tools. The iscrew trays are amazing and worth the 7 bucks to have every single screw organized and in place as you take them out of your phone. I was able to achieve the same results because I used the same tools that ifixit not only used but recommends and i followed every step to the T. The biggest issue you will face is working by feel on micro devices and having the patience to not damage anything. The guides are amazing.

Joshua B - Antwort

Hi all !

I repaired my phone, the power button works normally again.

Pay attention if you plan to do it, it is not as simple as it seems, took me several hours and cost me a new battery connector !

Therefore, my phone is randomly rebooting every 30s to 3mn, don't know why. Impossible to find a solution to fix it. Maybe someone could help me ?

maudbrechet - Antwort

Guys, UV filter attached to ambient light sensor is very important to install. I got an aftermarket replacement for power and sensor cable and forgot to take foam UV filter from original part to replacement. So during the call (phone or Skype) screen didn't turn off.

After installing old UV filter all is working like a charm.

Ребята, фильтр наклееный на датчик освещенности крайне обязателен для установки. На купленном шлейфе кнопки питания и сенсора небыло этой пленки и функция отключения дисплея во время звонка не работала вообще. После установки фильтра (не что инное как полупрозрачная пленка) все работает как и положено.

fz38pty3 - Antwort

Muy dificil, pero no imposible.... Me llevó 2horas y media y mucha paciencia, orden y preparación previa. Tarritos para guardar las piezas, una tela sobre la que trabajar, una lupa... Pero funciona todo perfecto otra vez...

Los últimos pasos de la guía están regular explicados y fotografiados.... Cuidado y delicadeza...

Ánimo y suerte!

elperroviejo - Antwort

Hola. este cable puede hacer que no funcione el tactil de la pantalla?

Hector Demestri -

I just completed this replacement yesterday. I broke the old speaker off the ribbon cable, and lost one of the smallest screws, but my iPhone is now working ok again, and the power button works properly. The new cable and switch is definitely after market at $2 shipped, but I'm sure it will work fine. I had to fabricate a screwdriver small enough to remove the 5 point screws, and it took nearly 2 hours to finish the job, but thanks to iFixit all is well. Cheers.

jack jones - Antwort

After replacing the sensor now my iphone won’t turn on

Sandy - Antwort

This is just as difficult as everyone is saying. Take your time, and take a break if it gets too difficult. Pay attention to where the cables go and wrap around. If you don’t get it exactly right the phone won’t go back together. The light and proximity sensors in my phone were stuck in really well, and I had to pry them up using a screwdriver. But I completed it, and my phone works now. It took about an hour and a half total.

Matthew Sigmond - Antwort

Successfully replaced power and sensor cable plus power button. I read up all the notes and took this into consideration and rightly so. For me a job not to be hurried.  I left the front camera in place but did remove the front screen just to have a look and it made it easier to access the button screws.  My MO was to strip down this phone, leave it, and consider any potential failure in my workmanship. This approach works for me.  Next day (today actually)  all went together and Bob,s your father……Thanks for the tutorial  ifixit.

dennis - Antwort

Although more difficult, I would definitely recommend going the extra mile and remove the entire screen first before attempting the power button replacement. I unfortunately damaged my LCD cable trying to bend it out of the way to reach the screws. Final replacement works but now I have to get my hands on a new display :(

Konstantinos Bolosis - Antwort

Kommentar hinzufügen


Letzten 24 Stunden: 5

Letzten 7 Tage: 25

Letzten 30 Tage: 83

Insgesamt: 297,632