Einleitung
Verwende diese Anleitung, um ein defektes Logic Board in deinem iPhone 5c zu ersetzen.
Was du brauchst
Einführungsvideo
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Falls dein Displayglas gesprungen ist, halte die Bruchstelle zusammen und vermeide Verletzungen, indem du das Glas mit Tape versiehst.
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Lege sich überlagernde Streifen von durchsichtigem Paketband über das iPhone Display, bis die gesamte Vorderseite bedeckt ist.
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Schalte dein iPhone aus, bevor du mit der Demontage beginnst.
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Entferne die zwei 3,8 mm P2 Pentalobe Schrauben auf beiden Seiten des Lightning Connectors.
to keep screws in order, buy some double sided tape and then affix the tape in small pieces to a sheet of paper. As you take the screws out, you can affix them to the tape (which is on the paper) and then write a description of what they are and where they go. quick, cheap and easy.
I found that these screws did not remove easily. After turning several times and feeling the threads drop back, indicating they were loose, the heads did not extend far enough to grip with my fingernails to pull out. I had to use the tweezers and then it took a bit more force than expected to remove them.
My iPhone 5c has P1 Pentalobe screws, not P2. This guide caused me to buy wrong tools so I thought I would share my experience. Perhaps they vary.
@codycraven01 These guides are created using iFixit tools, and P2 is definitely the correct driver. If you’re using tools you bought somewhere else, then yes, results may vary.
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Schließe den Handgriff des iSclacks, wodurch sich die Saugnäpfehalter öffnen.
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Platziere das Unterteil deines iPhone zwischen den Saugnäpfen gegen den Tiefenbegrenzer aus Kunststoff.
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Der obere Saugnapf sollte sich gerade über dem Home Button befinden.
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Öffne den Handgriff, um die Halter des iSclacks zu schließen. Platziere die Saugnäpfe mittig und drücke sie fest gegen die Ober- und Unterseite des iPhones.
I just replaced my iPhone 5C battery today and only used the I fix it repair kit that came with the suction cup. Getting the glass screen out was not too difficult as I used a little bit of upward motion on the suction cup while at the same time prying gently with the flat end of the opening tool at the same time. If you have two people it makes it a little easier as someone can hold the phone. After getting the end open, I was able to go around the perimeter and gently pry up the edges with very little trouble.
Experienced immediate problem: there is s strap going from the home button to the screen, about 1-1/2 inch long. After removing 3-4 screws I saw no way to disconnect it from either end. My daughter came to help get the screws back (my 70 years have problems with very tiny screws). Slid a piece back and the strap came free of the home button ares. Screen could only open then 75-80 degrees. Tapr tore. Pried battery out. Replaced on original sticky tape. Restarted fine and about to recycle the charge. Thanks for the kit and all. But 6 demos and 3 inatructions never mentioned this strip! So careful opening it up, please!!
@mikamazn What you’re describing sounds like an iPhone 5s. This guide is for the 5c. Glad to hear things worked out for you.
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Umfasse dein iPhone mit festem Griff und schließe den Handgriff deines iSclacks, um die Saugnäpfe auseinanderzubringen und dadurch die Display Einheit vom hinteren Gehäuse zu lösen.
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Der iSclack ist dazu entwickelt, dein iPhone sicher zu öffnen und zwar gerade soweit, um die Teile voneinander zu trennen, aber nicht weit genug, um das Home Button Kabel zu beschädigen.
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Überspringe die nächsten drei Schritte und fahre mit Schritt 8 fort.
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Presse einen Saugnapf auf das Display, direkt über dem Home Button.
cool i diden't now
very, very difficult to get a tight seal on tape. I removed the tape and still can't get a tight seal.
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Während du das iPhone mit einer Hand unten hältst, ziehe an dem Saugnapf, um das Display etwas vom hinteren Gehäuse zu lösen.
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Heble mithilfe eines Plastik Opening Tools die Kanten des hinteren Gehäuses vorsichtig nach unten, weg von der Display Einheit, während du mit dem Saugnapf nach oben ziehst.
Be sure not to use metal pry tools as they may crack the plastic.
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Ziehe an an der Kunststoffnoppe, um das Vakuum des Saugnapfs zu lösen.
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Entferne den Saugnapf von der Display Einheit.
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Hebe das Ende der Display Einheit mit dem Home Button nach oben, um Zugang zu den Steckverbindungen nahe dem oberen Teil des Gerätes zu bekommen.
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Öffne das Display bis zu einem 90°-Winkel und lehne es gegen einen festen Gegenstand, um es beim Arbeiten in dieser Position zu halten.
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Als Trick kannst du eine ungeöffnete Getränkedose als Halterung verwenden.
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Ein Gummiband könnte hilfreich sein, um es in dieser Position zu halten und sicherzustellen, dass die Displaykabel nicht beschädigt werden.
I use an old iPhone box to support the open phone. Set the box up on its end, and rubber band the screen side to the box. It works perfectly!
What do I do if it’s a little sticky and dirty inside?
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Entferne die beiden 1,6 mm Kreuzschlitz #000 Schrauben, die die Metallabdeckung über dem Akkuanschluss auf dem Logic Board befestigen.
These screws are very tiny and hard to manipulate. The screwdriver is magnetic; which is great to take them out, but makes it hard to put the screws back in, as the screwdriver pulls them from the hole. I solved this problem by using the pointed end of the spudger to put a tiny drop of Elmer's glue in the hole and then insert the screw. You can do this before putting the bracket in place if you want. Then the screw wont pull out by the magnetic driver and make lining up and fastening the screws much easier; at least for me!
I found that you don't need to disconnect the battery... why bother doing more fiddling with annoyingly tiny screws and obstinate cable connectors when you don't actually have to? Especially when you could only end up causing more damage. As a matter of fact, the original iFixit video didn't bother to disconnect the battery either, but they've since updated the video to include battery disconnection, I guess as a "belt and braces" approach in case the repair-hero forgets to power down the phone first?
Disconnecting the battery is a safety precaution, and yes it's worth doing. Even with the phone powered off, there is some danger of blowing the backlight filter fuse if you disconnect the display while the battery is connected. At that point you're no longer looking at a simple DIY repair. Even though it's possible to skip this step and still come out okay, my advice is not to risk it.
It’s a relatively junky phone, so if it breaks, what the heck. I’m not going to disconnect the battery.
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Heble den Akkustecker mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers vorsichtig von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.
Instead of using a spudger, you can use your fingernails too. This is quicker and enables you to feel if you're not accidentally putting on too much pressure or lifting the connector instead of the cable.
Accidentally pulling out the logic board socket is no idle warning - exactly what I did without much effort. I think this shouldn’t be described as ‘prying’ up because it implies needing to use force - but these things actually pop off quite easily with a nudge, which you discover at later steps.
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Entferne die folgenden Kreuzschlitz #000 Schrauben, die die Abdeckung der Displaykabel am Logic Board befestigen:
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Zwei 1,3 mm Schrauben
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Eine 1,7 mm Schraube
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Eine 3,25 mm Schraube
I didn't need to remove the front panel to replace the lightning connector. Just prop it up like in Step 8, then skip steps 12-16.
I always put my screws in a magnet tray and place the screws in the exact position they were taken out. The magnet tray holds the screws tight in the position I put them in. No chasing on the floor looking for small screws that you brushed off the table.
I always take a picture of the phone, print it out, then use scotch tape to tape the screws onto the picture in the location where they go. You don't lose the screws and you always know where they go for re-assembly
good tip! but instead of taking & printing a picture of your own phone, you probably could just print the color coded pic from this step (assuming everything on your phone is exactly the same).
When reassembling, the screw holder that the screws screw into came off the board. Is there a way to superglue that back in?
no, do not use super-glue. Quite some of these ‘screw-holders’ are screws themselves with e hollow tread in the head (didn’t find the correct naming for it) - just like the things you screw into a PC case and fasten the mainboard on.
did NOT remove the front entirely. its not necessary to do this to remove the battery. these are only precautionary steps in case your clumsy or you feel you might not be able to manage it without. as always, be cautious.
Agree. Step 12 is unnecessary if one is extremely careful.
*warning* … this connector assembly is very messy to re-build. Next time I change such a battery, I’ll try to get it out carefully *without* detaching the display unit. My resumée: *never* unscrew more things than necessary. These things are not M five (5 mm bolt diameter) like on a bike, these are M zero-point-five. Even for a smirf, this is tiny stuff.
Hi Ali,
You can choose to not remove those screws and still be able to take the battery out. Be very careful supporting the display, or you may tear the display cables and damage your screen.
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Benutze ein Plastiköffnungswerkzeug oder deinen Fingernagel, um die Frontkamera und das Sensorkabel zu trennen.
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Achte darauf, nur an dem Anschluss zu hebeln und nicht an der Fassung auf dem Logic Board.
You might get a more “modernised” part from eBay (for this very model, iPhone 5c) which has an ENTIRE CABLE missing… if you look closely, it’s been re-directed into the middle cable. And it all works perfectly, touch screen, and display. So it’s a optimisation.
In summary - if you get this version of the screen, you only need to deal with 2 cables, not 3. The rightmost socket will remain empty.
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Trenne das Digitizer Kabel mit einem Plastik Opening Tool oder dem Fingernagel.
I replaced the broken front panel of the iPhone 5c and got the "famous white stripes" on the new screen. Reading about all kind of problems that the lcd/digitizer cable contacts may cause, I compared the cable connectors of the original Apple and the replacement part I bought online with a 35x magnifying glass. The quality difference was visible: The white description on the original part on the cable next to the connector is: 821-1784-A, while the inferior replacement part is: 821-1784-02. Check out the two numbers online and insist getting the "A" to avoid future troubles !!!
This person above is not knowledgeable. That number is a camera proxy part number, not the lcd or digitizer number. It changes with production date, both for original and aftermarket ones. A, B, D, 02, 04, 08 etc. Can all be either or.
vince -
Apple uses numerical revisions (-02) for pre-production parts, and alpha revisions (-A) for production revisions. It looks like you got a preproduction assembly, or a knock-off.
There are, in fact, three connectors in this step, not two. The front-facing camera and digitizer connector (Step 11) is really difficult to align when you put it back. Took me about 15 minutes before I succeeded.
Now I have a different problem. Everything works just dandy, EXCEPT:
Towards the bottom of the screen (in portrait) there is a horizontal line that is dead to the touch. For example, on the keyboard, I can use the spacebar, but not C V B N M, etcetera.
Three possibilities in my mind: One, when I dropped it, something else besides the glass and digitizer, etc, was damaged.
Two: I did not replace the cables correctly. This seems unlikely. They all "clicked" into place and stayed there.
Three: The digitizer supplied is faulty.
Comments? Which cable/connector could be causing this -- if it is that?
Take apart, Clean Connections, Put back together.... If same problem sounds like a fault part...
duston -
When reassembling the iPhone 5c, I used the flat end of the spudger to press on the connectors and maintain them while replacing the front panel on the body of the iPhone.
The third and "deepest" connector no longer slips out of its socket, which it did before holding the whole lot with the spudger.
If the ESD plate covering the connectors is properly re-attached to the phone, you should not have to do this. The cover holds all the connectors in place just fine.
iBroke -
I replaced the display assembly to resolve an issue with the phone not responding to any touch input. I assumed it was a bad digitizer. However, I have the same problem with the new display assembly—no touch response at all. The phone starts up fine and the screen works, I just can’t “slide to unlock”. This is also preventing me from downloading photos from the phone since I can’t enter the passcode. I have cleaned the connections and reseated the cables. Is it possible this is a problem on the logic board? If so, is there any way to get the photos off the phone since I can’t enter the passcode on the screen?
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Entferne die Display Einheit vom hinteren Gehäuse.
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Führe ein SIM Card Eject Tool oder eine Büroklammer in das kleine Vertiefung im SIM Card Fach ein.
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Drücke mit dem SIM Card Eject Tool nach innen, um das Fach auszuwerfen.
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Dies kann einen beträchtlichen Kraftaufwand erfordern.
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Löse das Flachbandkabel des Lignting-Anschlusses aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.
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Der Lightning-Anschluss ist auf einer Abschirmung auf dem Logic Board angeklebt. Löse das Kabel mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers vorsichtig ab.
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Trenne den Antennenstecker vom Logic Board.
There's often a blob of glue on the antenna connector as well, so it may take a little more effort than usual to disconnect it.
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Löse mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers den Kabelstecker der Audiosteuerung aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.
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Löse die Kabelverbindung der Rückkamera aus ihrem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.
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Eventuell ist die Erdungsklammer des Logic Boards mit einem Stück Klebeband bedeckt. Wenn das der Fall ist, entferne es mit einer Pinzette.
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Entferne die folgenden Schrauben, mit denen das Logic Board am hinteren Gehäuse befestigt ist:
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Zwei 2,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben
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Drei 2,7 mm Distanzschrauben
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Eine 2,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube #000
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Entferne die 1,2 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube #000, die die Erdungsklammer an der oberen Seitenwand befestigt.
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Entferne die Erdungsklammer des Logic Boards mit einer Pinzette.
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Hebe das untere Ende des Logic Boards vorsichtig mit einem Plastic Opening Tool vom hinteren Gehäuse an, so dass du es mit den Händen fassen kannst.
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Entferne das Logic Board weit genug von der Rückkamera, um die goldene Kontaktkappe unter dem oberen Endes des Boards freizulegen.
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Klappe das Logic Board nach oben Richtung der Lautstärkeregelungsktasten, um den Antennenstecker freizulegen.
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Löse den Antennenstecker an der Rückseite des Logic Boards.
Step 31. I encountered epoxy around the antenna connector. Had to remove it from around the connector before it would pop off.
Mine had epoxy around the connection too. Broke the cable when trying to remove :((((((
Please add alert, I broke connector because could not see epoxy.
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Arbeite die Schritte in umgekehrter Reihenfolge ab, um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen.
Arbeite die Schritte in umgekehrter Reihenfolge ab, um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen.
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14 Kommentare
Would a logic board swap be easier than a battery swap between 2 iPhone 5C's? ?
A battery swap would be significantly easier! Here's the battery replacement guide. =)
While I was repairing my phone, I guess the part where I didn't go around was taking out the battery because it felt like it was the more fragile part. This was because I did not have the proper equipment to take it away. This guide was pretty helpful for me in reconnecting cables.
Anyway, I am bothered that as I took out the logic board, there was this golden thing that just slid out of place. It slid from the top portion of the phone, but I do not know where it was originally and I do not know how it was supposed to be placed. It looked like an open box of sorts (but only had 3 sides bent up) and had a hole in the middle. It would be great if anyone would know where it could be placed so I could put back my phone.
Look at step 29 :)
Where i can buy this board for iphone5c
[verlinktes Produkt fehlt oder ist deaktiviert: IF126-023-2]
Why does the replacement logistic board not have the grove to snap the snaps into? Mine is just smooth on from and back? This board is useless for me
Mekie
how do you know when you need a new logic board?..my phone will not keep the date,or the proper time,Ihave to reset it every day manually...
Did everything as described and it all went good except for the antenna which I had a hard time connecting back and then it broken, I will have it welded back on.
However when I tried to turn on the phone, nothing happens! Stays black!! What can it be?... help !....
i am also interested i swaped the battery and screen and nothing happened just a black screen i thought that the board needs to be replaced. please let me know if you solve as i can try before i purchase the board
excellent work..
Thanks very much. Very clear and concise directions. Simply take your time.
A battery swap would be easier but just make sure you are getting good quality ones and not cheap good looking one found on eBay and a logic board swap is easy I found out because I was scared think I’m gonna break something but no I didn’t and it just requires for you to disconnect all the ribbon cables I think because you might leave a ribbon cable connect because it’s not connect to the logic board but I’m not sure and you just disconnect some antenna cables unscrew some screws using a flat head and a Philips head screw driver and boom it’s done for taking it apart and then just reverse the steps to put it back together and the antenna cables are annoying to put back on though
