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iPhone 5s Display Einheit ersetzen

Grundständige Anleitung
Dies ist eine grundständige Anleitung, die nur als Teil einer anderen Anleitung verwendet werden sollte.

Was du brauchst

  1. iPhone 5s Display Einheit ersetzen, Pentalobe Schrauben entfernen: Schritt 1, Bild 1 von 1
    • Entlade den Akku deines iPhones auf unter 25%, bevor du weitermachst. Eine geladene Lithium-Ionen Batterie kann Feuer fangen und/oder explodieren, falls sie beschädigt wird.

    • Schalte dein iPhone aus, bevor du mit der Demontage beginnst.

    • Entferne die zwei 3,9 mm Pentalobe-Schrauben neben dem Lightning Connector.

    I used a white terrycloth hand towel as my work surface and to position and retain all the screws and part in their relative positions, so I didn't mix things up. I also magnetized the screwdriver tips and that made it very easy to deal with these tiny, tiny screws.

    Magnus Dalen - Antwort

    For a secure working, put a small pot with lid on your workplace. When the battery starts burning, throw it in the pot, close it with the lid and get the pot safely out of the building, e.g. on the balcony or throw it out of the window. Do not try to extinct the battery with water, just let it burn out outside. This might take some hours.

    Raymond Willems - Antwort

    This is a really helpful one! My battery caught fire but luckily it was only one cell and not the entire battery. So it was done after a few seconds and I could go on with the replacement.

    Matthias Blab -

    Directions should say “use the P2 screwdriver head.”

    William Kolb - Antwort

    This step should have included that information. It was very helpful and important. Thank you very much.

    Jeffery -

    ifixit supplied a set of replacement philips screws (marked “Liberate!”). Thanks but I’m sticking with the pentalobe since they fit more securely than philips which have a chance of stripping if not held with the right amount of pressure.

    Don Libes - Antwort

    What are you supposed to do if the screws are stripped or won’t come out. No luck with the tweezers either.

    ibrokeit - Antwort

    Yep i‘ve had the same problem. One screw out, one that won‘t budge!!!

    Stennett -

    “cheater” reading glasses are a big help. Carolyn

    Carolyn Green - Antwort

    In this step, it is the P02 screwdriver from the kit (see that the nib has five sides , exactly for ‘pentalobe’ screws). All the other steps involving screws it was the Philips 000 (there was a third screwdriver Y 000 in the kit which I did not use). Did not have any problems at all removing and readding screws back through the process.

    Andre Silva - Antwort

    I'm trying to fix my 5s’s but one has some water damage, and impeccable screen but won't turn on,then I have another one that has no water damage, screens a bit busted but won't turn because of the screen. If I use the good screen from the water damaged phone would it work?

    samuel.m.fudge - Antwort

    After removing the phone from a very good plastic case and before I started the repair I cleaned the entire phone with a soft cloth misted with rubbing alcohol. That removes all the grunge which builds up in the seams of the phone and the small spaces inside the case. Having a clean phone to work on makes the job a lot easier and prevents grunge from falling into the phone.

    David Park - Antwort

    General comment about the screwdriver tips and reassembly: If you get a screw nicely set in place using tweezers and then use the screwdriver, the magnet will probably pull the screw out before you can tighten it. If this is a problem use just the tip (without the handle) to start the screw, then tighten using the handle.

    Kevin Patfield - Antwort

    DO NOT disconnect the screen.

    Benjamin Piscopo - Antwort

    Having two SE’s needing batteries, I ordered an extra battery. The extra battery did not come with the Phillips replacement screws. It would be helpful if every battery came with a set of case replacement screws.

    Dorothy Campbell - Antwort

    Upon reassembly I found it useful to squeeze the phone right above the screws so everything lines up nice. I noticed that when I didn’t do this the new Phillips screws were trying to go in crooked. So just holding the phone together helps.

    Samara Sullivan - Antwort

    hello i am replacing my iphone 5s battery but i am stucked because the adhesive broke whiles pulling it out

    before i started i made sure my battery was 0% but i am afraid that when i mistakenly puncture it with the spudger it might catch fire

    please is the battery capable of catching fire when it has no power (0%)?

    please can someone give me the honest answers before i continue

    thank you

    George Rockson - Antwort

    The screws in my iPhoneSE were not P2 (1,2mm) but P1 (0,8mm). I had to order an extra screwdriver which is not available at iFixit.

    Tadeus Nawka - Antwort

    Instructions were fine until removing the battery , No adhesive strip at the bottom of the battery . Unable to remove battery as the battery was stuck sold with adhesive but could not get at the adhesive strip to remove battery . seems whoever put the battery together did not put a strip across the bottom . Had the phone from new and this was the first time I tried to replace the battery . Now I need a new phone

    J Caley - Antwort

    Instructions fine until removing the battery . No strip at bottom of the battery hence impossible to get at the adhesive strips around the battery . This must have been done in the factory as I have had the phone from new and this was the first time the battery was being replaced . Cheesed off as I now need a new phone

    J Caley - Antwort

    30 minutes - to an hour? I gave up after removing the screws and spending an hour trying to lift the display with a suction pad.

    harwood - Antwort

    iPhone 5s maderbored

    Rahan Ali - Antwort

  2. iPhone 5s Display Einheit ersetzen, Display abkleben: Schritt 2, Bild 1 von 3 iPhone 5s Display Einheit ersetzen, Display abkleben: Schritt 2, Bild 2 von 3 iPhone 5s Display Einheit ersetzen, Display abkleben: Schritt 2, Bild 3 von 3
    • Falls dein Displayglas gesprungen ist, halte die Bruchstelle zusammen und vermeide Verletzungen, indem du das Glas mit Tape versiehst.

    • Lege sich überlagernde Streifen von durchsichtigem Paketband über das iPhone Display, bis die gesamte Frontseite bedeckt ist.

    • Dies hält Glasscherben zusammen und erzeugt eine glattere Oberfläche für mehr Haftung. So lässt sich das Display besser vom Rückgehäuse lösen.

    • Trage eine Schutzbrille, um deine Augen vor Splittern, die sich während des Reparaturvorgangs lösen können, zu schützen.

    This is a Step 4 comment. I ordered the iSclack tool to help with my 5s battery replacement. After 30 minutes of trying to open the iPhone, I gave up and will try this later when I have a lot more time to spend on this. Before you ask, yes I did remove the two screws in Step 2. I must have a very tight fitting phone! Maybe next time I'll try a drop of oil on both suction cups to help with the adhesion. LOL, did not think I'd have trouble opening the case!

    TerryChang - Antwort

    An update. After months of living with my dead battery (iSclack would not work for me), I decided to use the provided suction cup, and surprise - it worked! LOL, so much for the iSclack tool! In any case, I followed the instructions and though it was a bit difficult (too small parts, too fat fingers, aging eyes), I was able to replace the battery. The battery removal was a bear, but with patience (and the use of an expired credit card as my lever), it did come out. Replacement of the adhesive strips was a puzzle - I eventually installed it "backwards" (removal hole in the tab on the left vs right) but this should not affect anything. Phone is charging now and preliminary testing of the home button/digitizer seem to be working. Once fully charged I'll do a full test on the phone to ensure I put things together correctly, but THANK YOU iFixIt for these instructions!

    TerryChang -

    I faced the same issue. My 5S wouldn't open with the iSclack. Had to use the suction cup instead. Even then, I wrestled with it for a whole 30 minutes.. Apparently my 5S is one sticky beast.

    Daylen -

    Firstly do not just watch the video if you are going to do the battery replacement. I was too busy and stupid and only watched the video and boogered my Girlfiends 5S with the screw replacement boon doggle... You must read the iFix full instructions (forget the video) or you will screw it up!.. It is not necessary to take the screen completely off. I did my 5 that was and assumed the 5S had a different protocol for a reason. It doesn't require removing the creen at all. I was careful on my 5 and had no problem. I took different prcautions and watched only the video and screwed up a perfectly good 5S... This means if your not backed up you just lost all your contacts and messages videos etc.... iFix is cool except their Video is not concise like the long instructions they provide. I was stupid and figured I new what i was doing after doing a couple other batteries and bingo I screwed it...

    yaterbob - Antwort

    Before embarking on this task, be sure you don't simply have built-up lint in the lightening port. I found that with a needle and some very CAREFUL workmanship removing lint/debris from the base of the port was what was ailing my machine.

    mark40 - Antwort

    Before embarking on this, remember to order some new replacement sticky adhesive strips, as these do not come with the replacement battery. I didn’t realise this until I had removed the battery. I just replaced it without and have crossed my fingers!

    debsmcd6 - Antwort

    As to my comment above, I had to order them and fit them to the battery as it was moving around inside!

    debsmcd6 - Antwort

    There is no need to over tape the screen; one strip is enough if wider to make a full cover. My screen was super fragmented and it worked beautifully with just one layer of tape.

    Andre Silva - Antwort

    I didn’t have packing tape, because my kids apparently found it and used it all up. But I have Scotch tape and a 3M Command hook and that worked.

    Justin Evans - Antwort

    I would never use a phone in that condition until I replace the screen.

    guardian10 - Antwort

  3. iPhone 5s Display Einheit ersetzen, Verhindern, dass das Display auseinandergeht: Schritt 3, Bild 1 von 3 iPhone 5s Display Einheit ersetzen, Verhindern, dass das Display auseinandergeht: Schritt 3, Bild 2 von 3 iPhone 5s Display Einheit ersetzen, Verhindern, dass das Display auseinandergeht: Schritt 3, Bild 3 von 3
    • In den folgenden Schritten hebst du das Display vom restlichen Teil des Gehäuses ab. Das Display setzt sich zusammen aus dem Bildschirm und einem Plastikrahmen mit Metallklammern.

    • Unabhängig vom verwendeten Werkzeug musst du darauf achten das ganze Display auf einmal abzuheben.

    • Wenn sich der Bildschirm vom Rahmen löst, wie es im ersten Bild zu erkennen ist, schiebe ein Plastik Opening Tool zwischen den Plastikrahmen und den unteren Teil des Gehäuses, um die Metallklammern zu lösen.

    • Wenn der Rahmen sich bei deinem Display abgelöst hat könnte es hilfreich sein, diesen vor dem Zusammenbau mit einem dünnen Streifen doppelseitigem Klebeband zu befestigen.

    can this separation makes the screen stop working

    bassam_shallak92 - Antwort

    In my experience, dust particles have entered the screen, and partially ruins the wiewing experience, but this far the screen still works

    Iver søbakk -

    If the screen spilt and half is still stuck in the phone (clips broke and came out), how do I get the rest of the display panel up? It appears stuck, almost glued down.

    Shara Nelson - Antwort

    I was attempting to replace the battery on a phone that had been dropped once to create a dent in the top right corner, which pushed out the screen a tiny bit in that region, but not enough to break or render it non-functional. That all changed when I attempted to open my phone. I have a 5s and I had a friend’s broken SE that I was practicing on. I did not realize that either the construction of the screen is different, or that the dent in my phone would be that much of a problem. When I opened my phone, the top of the screen popped up almost immediately…. without the plastic bevel. It took a bit to get the bottom part open, but the plastic bevel in the top part was still stuck in the frame. I panicked and closed everything, but the screen was popped out from the frame even more and now when I turn on the phone, the screen has a green tint and won’t respond to touch :’(

    Zhian Kamvar - Antwort

    For reassembly, it is important to insert the upper end (the end opposite from the home button) in first, then pop the rest of the display assembly down into place. The upper end has protrusions which go beneath a metal lip. If done in the opposite (wrong) order, the upper end will not allow itself to be pushed down in place and will sit unevenly higher than the other end.

    Steve Bayes - Antwort

    I was replacing my 5s screen due to a cracked screen. I had used packing tape on it to keep the bits from falling apart while I waited for the replacement part, however, the tape limited my ability to use the suction cup for removal. After several tries I was able to get a firm attachment, however, the result was that the glass was being pulled up without the plastic rim. After several failed attempts of using plastic opening tools to wedge between the frame and the phone body, I ended up using an exacto-knife (a Stanley knife) based on another commenters suggestion. I knew I might end up scraping the metal but nothing else was thin enough to work. This approach totally worked for me so that I could get the frame lifted just enough to slide in plastic cards and wedges until I could switch over to the plastic opening tools. Luckily there are only very minor nicks (hardly even visible) on the metal. Thank you to that commenter, otherwise am not sure I could’ve done it.

    JW McAteer - Antwort

    Some articles show removal of the SIM card holder. Is this necessary?

    D Williams

    Dec 26/ 2019

    Don Williams - Antwort

    From the Step 13 photos, it would appear that removing the SIM card holder isn’t necessary on the 5s. However, for many mobile phones it IS a necessary step. If you do a lot of mobile phone repair, it’s a good habit to take out the SIM card holder to prevent damage.

    Eric Young -

    What adhesive is recommended for a separated display bezel? Austausch der iPhone Display Klebestreifen mentions that adhesive was only used for 2020 iPhone SE, not the 1st Generation. I haven’t found any other resource on replacing the 1st gen bezel adhesive.

    Jeff Lawshe - Antwort

    I didn’t realize there was a plastic bezel, how do I remove it?

    Nas - Antwort

    Kleine opmerking: correct Nederlands voor “plasticen frame” is “plastic frame” of ”plastieken kader”. Verder prima geschreven handleiding hoor.

    flitsdoortstad - Antwort

    Thanks voor het scherpe oog en de opmerking! We hebben het aangepast! Volgende keer kun je het echter ook zelf doen als een dergelijke fout tegenkomt! :)

    Thomas Keulemans -

  4. iPhone 5s Display Einheit ersetzen, Anleitung für die Anti-Clamp: Schritt 4, Bild 1 von 3 iPhone 5s Display Einheit ersetzen, Anleitung für die Anti-Clamp: Schritt 4, Bild 2 von 3 iPhone 5s Display Einheit ersetzen, Anleitung für die Anti-Clamp: Schritt 4, Bild 3 von 3
    In diesem Schritt verwendetes Werkzeug:
    Clampy - Anti-Clamp
    • Wir haben die Anti-Clamp entwickelt, um Geräte sicher zu öffnen. Die nächsten beiden Schritte zeigen die Benutzung der Anti-Clamp. Wenn du sie nicht verwenden willst, überspringe die nächsten zwei Schritte und folge einer anderen Methode.

    • Genaue Anweisungen, wie die Anti-Clamp benutzt wird, findest du hier.

    • Drücke den blauen Griff zurück, damit die Arme der Anti-Clamp frei beweglich werden.

    • Schiebe die Arme entweder über die linke oder die rechte Kante des iPhones.

    • Bringe die Saugheber am unteren Rand des iPhones direkt über dem Home Button an, einen auf der Vorderseite, den anderen auf der Rückseite.

    • Drücke die Saugheber zusammen, so dass sie auf den Oberflächen haften.

    • Wenn die Saugheber nicht gut auf den Oberflächen des iPhones haften, dann kannst du die beiliegenden Stücke aus Klebeband verwenden, um eine griffigere Oberfläche zu schaffen.

    DO NOT USE THIS METHOD. If the glue holding the glass to the screen assembly is weak, the force from the suction cup will pull the glass straight off. Instead, use a very thin flat metal tool to slide under the front face (carefully between the plastic edge strip and the metal case) and pry up. This is not only easier, but it is also a far safer method.

    Izaac Post - Antwort

    Thank you very much, however already used the suction cup and it came much easier than expected... Then snapped the home cable on my wife's phone... Now I have to replace that...

    Thomas Hallberg -

    This tool is worth its weight in gold to make opening the case without breaking things very easy. Highly recommend using it. I needed to use the little blue plastic pry bar tool on one side of the case to get the glass and frame to release from the back.

    Magnus Dalen - Antwort

    I used this tool on 2 successful screen replacements - BUT on the third time, the force did in fact separate the glass from the plastic, so I'd suggest inspecting first, and using with care.

    Andrew - Antwort

    This is the third repair using the iSclack it didn't have enough force to lift the face. I used the flat tool to help separate it. Thanks to those who warned against this tool due to pulling the glass face loose. I didn't think of that.

    ldavis - Antwort

  5. iPhone 5s Display Einheit ersetzen: Schritt 5, Bild 1 von 3 iPhone 5s Display Einheit ersetzen: Schritt 5, Bild 2 von 3 iPhone 5s Display Einheit ersetzen: Schritt 5, Bild 3 von 3
    • Drücke den blauen Griff vorwärts, damit die Arme wieder fest sind.

    • Drehe den Griff eine volle Umdrehung im Uhrzeigersinn, oder bis du merkst, dass sich die Saugheber dehnen.

    • Achte darauf, dass sich die Saugheber weiterhin gegenüber stehen. Wenn sie sich nicht mehr gegenüber stehen, dann löse die Saugheber ein wenig ab und schiebe sie in die richtige Position.

    • Wenn die Anti-Clamp einen ausreichend großen Spalt erzeugt hat, setze ein Plektrum unter das Display ein.

    • Wenn es nicht gelingt, mit der Anti-Clamp einen ausreichend großen Spalt zu erzeugen, dann erwärme die Stelle nochmals und drehe den Griff eine viertel Umdrehung im Uhrzeigersinn weiter.

    • Drehe den Griff jeweils nicht mehr als eine viertel Umdrehung weiter und warte jedes Mal eine Minute lang. Gib der Anti-Clamp Zeit, ihre Arbeit zu erledigen.

    • Überspringe die nächsten zwei Schritte.

  6. iPhone 5s Display Einheit ersetzen, Manuelle Öffnungsprozedur: Schritt 6, Bild 1 von 1
    • Wenn du keine Anti-Clamp besitzt, benutze einen einzelnen Saugheber, um die Frontscheibe anzuheben:

    • Drücke einen Saugheber direkt über dem Home Button auf das Display fest.

    • Damit der Saugheber gut haftet, muss er vollständig auf dem Display aufliegen.

    My phone was too shattered to grip with my "Pump'itup" iFixit suction cup, and the method of adding packing tape over the display did not work either (still too lumpy). I ended up epoxying two 5" x 3/4" pieces of wood trim strips directly to the face of the phone, avoiding the Home switch and any seams, and positioning the wood to overhang the phone by ~2 inches. After 30 minutes of setting, I was able to lift up on the overhanging wood strips and pop the face of the phone out of the housing.

    cpwittenberg - Antwort

    Use a Stanley knife to push in between the back housing and the frame in the bottom left and corner and gently leaver up.

    Much easier Than using suction cup but may slight scratch the frame or housing.

    Craig Matthews -

    I suspect that the age of the phone and accident that caused cracks make this method possible for some people. My mom's phone was only a month or so old and the suction cup only caused the screen to raise slightly. There was certainly no crack I could squeeze a spudger into. I just superglued the suction cup onto the screen in the end, which was very effective.

    Caroline Russell -

    Removed board. I ended up with a small shiny metal plate. Shown clearly in the above last posted photos just under the power button switch. Where does this goes?

    Malcolm - Antwort

    I was wondering the same thing. Did you ever figure out where this goes?

    paul -

    This has probably been replied to, but see step 31 :) Should be re installed with the pokey out bits pointing down.

    daveoline -

    Can someone please help me. I went through all of the steps and now my phone screen is all white and I can't see anything.

    Lukeapple1414 - Antwort

    First try a hard reset by holding down both the power button and the home button at the same time for at least 10 seconds. If that doesn't work, get back inside the phone and reseat the connectors. If the problem persists, either you received a bad part, or the part was damaged during installation.

    iGuys -

    My screen was too broken and the suction cup would not stick. I too a piece of Gorilla duct-tape and stuck it to itself and then also to the screen so that it made a "Tab" that I could pull up on. This worked much better than the suction cup.

    Nathan - Antwort

    @malcom @paul if you are referring to step 31 the plate needs to be placed as it comes out on the picture. Long flat part towards the top of the casing with the tab facing the right.

    hari - Antwort

    In my case, i found it easier to remove the sim - not sure if this was a placebo effect, but there you go!

    also, there is a rubber seal around the screen - my experience is it should stay of the display, not on the main body.

    Robert Colvin - Antwort

    The amount of force I applied to open the case using the suction cup manually ended up tearing out the home button cable...ripping it in the process. Goodbye TouchID...see you next generation T_T

    I would definitely recommend buying a stupid iSclack. I don't know why they'd even present the suction cup as an option. Maybe the 5S opens more easily when it's new. Now I need to decide between dropping more money on a new home button (and iSclack this time) or just hold out with the software home button.

    johnsonjohnr - Antwort

    Just lift slightly using the suction cup and on the bottom edge of the screen over to the left you'll see a slight gap open up just enough to get the spudger in. Don't use the suction cup to release the entire display assembly, just work around the edge with a spudger. This also helps clear some of the dirt build up.

    daveoline -

    My battery had swollen enough to start pushing the display out. I was concerned that the glass and frame would separate during removal but using the standard suction cup and lots of work with the spludger (two person job) I got the screen out ok. I expected to have to re-attach the glass the the frame before reassembly but it went back together fine. I used a cable tie to avoid yanking the home button cable.

    Kevin Patfield -

    This happened to me too, with iPhone SE 1st Generation. You have to pull so hard that ripping the home cable seems inevitable. iSlack solved the opening problem. I don’t think iFixit should even suggest using a suction cap alone to open the iPhone SE 1st generation.

    John Messenger -

    I too tried the suction cup - worthless on cracked an only pulled off the many layers of packing tape applied as suggested. Used edge of utility knife to pry it up, then helper placed another blade underneath until I could pry it open. Great suggestion I read elsewhere, and only way I could get cover off.

    I too skipped step 25. Definitely requires patience! Screen replacement was successful, but noticeable degradation in screen clarity/color from the original is somewhat disappointing. At half the price of OEM repair, would probably do it again though.

    matttaylor - Antwort

    If other people have this issue, I would try supergluing a screen protector over the old screen - leave a wide margin around the edges, home key, ear speaker. You could even just cut a piece of the protector into a square, or get a rectangle of shipping tape, the glued down portion needn't cover the whole screen. Then, glue the suction cup on top of the glued down screen protector or tape. I suggest this over the utility knife because it seems like the knife method would at the very least scratch up and nick the frame.

    Caroline Russell -

    i did this now i'm having a hard time putting the metal bracket back on :(

    sineglabs - Antwort

    1) Set suction cup off-center & pry up a corner instead of trying to yank open the whole thing. Wrap fingers around the entire phone while pulling so you don't inadvertently pull the display too far off.

    2) Use a spudger, credit card, or guitar pick to pry it up once you have enough room to do so - don't pull any more than necessary.

    3) There's a thin rubber edge around the entire display that might separate & stick to the bottom section. It should stay with the phone.

    4) Reassembly: There are small plastic tabs on the top edge that you need to properly reseat in order to fully close the phone.

    seijihuzz01 - Antwort

    We got this to work. Some patience required, but absolutely doable. Our new iFixit suction cup did nothing, but a random one around the house worked fine. Just be patient and work it gently up, this use an opening tool or exacto blade to get into the seem once it comes up. Really quite doable. I'm glad I didn't spend 25 bucks on the fancy tool (a must for repeat use, I'm sure). But don't be deterred by the negatives above. Just go slow.

    Chris Twomey - Antwort

    I.did not read all the comments so I hope this isn’t redundant but my screen was too damaged to provide the air tonight seal that any suction device would need. The ifixit #3 flat head prayed the top out very easily. YMMV but I wouldn’t even try any other method before attempting to push the flat head down between the case and the glass. I thought it might bend the case out just a little causing a slight cosmetic damage but I have a rotective case that covers that anyway so who cares. Incidentally the case protected it from a lot of falls but not from gettin run over by my truck. A Prius once, but not the truck

    Bill Pennock - Antwort

    Oh and if you think this step is hard wait till you get to the screws on the home key or sliding the bracket back over the Touch ID cable connector. That is where the real problems are

    Bill Pennock - Antwort

    Single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

    Bryan Solo - Antwort

    I agree but I found that I had to put screen cleaning fluid under the suction cup to get a strong enough seal. Also every time the suction cup slipped I had to turn the phone back off again!

    Micky McGuinness -

    I concur with Bryan’s post. The suction cup that was included with the toolkit that came with my battery wouldn’t hold to the screen when I pulled on it (the rubber was pretty soft, and the surface not smooth - not at all like the suction cup shown in the pictures of this guide). Fortunately I have a suction cup with a hook used typically for hanging things on the wall of a shower that held on quite tight that did the job - in fact, I had to use the point of the spudger to get under the edge of the suction cup to get it to release. I also used the zip tie trick someone else posted for making sure the screen didn’t open too far before disconnecting the home button cable, but it wasn’t necessary - I got the screen lifted with enough control that the cable was never in danger.

    stuart40plus - Antwort

    Suction cup supplied by ifixit worked for me. Of course I used all the tricks mentioned previously: Zip ties, work on one corner at a time, and work slowly - don’t expect it to pop out easily/quickly.

    Don Libes - Antwort

    Getting cocky after replacing a display screen and battery in a 6S i-Phone, I decided to open up my own -Phone SE and replace the old battery with a new one. I used one of the flip lever suction cup devices and it worked so well, that the display screen popped open so far that the Home Button Cable was torn off from the Home Button Assembly. I followed the instructions for re-assembly, but the damage was done. Lesson learned…read the Repair Guide before starting a repair!

    Peter Bovey - Antwort

    Suction cup for itself did not work for me. Then, I used a double face tape on it, and it worked nice (don’t try to remove the suction cup until you have fully unplugged the screen though). The suction cup should be used only to make a little gap for the other tools (spudger and that one which is blue). Sorry for the all caps, but ‘PULL THE SCREEN VERY SLOWLY’ (many people here commented there was a failure in this spet even being cautious).

    Andre Silva - Antwort

    I liked the idea of using an iSclack to pull on both sides at the same time but didn’t want to spend the money for one. Instead, I used the suction cup that attaches my GPS to the windshield of my car, attached it to the front and then attached the small suction cup provided with the tool kit to the back of my iPhone. Pulling both in opposite directions worked perfectly to pull the case open with minimal effort and no surprises.

    Gregory White - Antwort

    Instead of a ring handle like in the photo, the suction cup in my repair kit had a blue, plastic L-shaped handle with the vertical leg of the L offset from the center of the cup. Like others I used zip ties and placed the cup to the left of the home button and had the vertical leg of the L oriented toward the bottom of the phone. Patience is the key.

    Gary Grinstead - Antwort

    This is a lot easier if you take advantage of the fact that the coefficient of expansion is different between the metal case and the innards. On my second battery replacement, I heated a wet washcloth in the microwave, put it in a plastic bag, and laid the phone on it. Voila! Cracked the phone open almost like opening a refrigerator door!

    Dorothy Campbell - Antwort

    Thank you! This worked perfectly and should be added to the official repair guide :)

    Emi Soroka -

    This ⬆︎⬆︎ is excellent advice. I did excactly as Dorothy said. The screen disengaged from the case very easily.

    dbrick - Antwort

    Dorothy/dbrick this sounds pretty “logical to me” - Did you lay down the phone on the hot washcloth backside down - or did you wrap

    it around the phone? The idea is to expand the metal case while the glass of the screen does not follow the expansion. Not sure …

    Oberschrauber - Antwort

    Well Well her we are Ifixit saved some money with the suction cup pure junk great job guys! Who had this great idea? give him a big raise! The one in the picture is a much beter one, nice trick! You must have the Isclack tool !

    John Tourangeau - Antwort

    Oh what a pain in the neck this was. The suction cup is a hit or miss thing. But if you press down on it all over (center, edges, and the in between part) then it will stick reasonably firmly about 1 try out of every 5. When I did that, on the "good" tries, I was able to get the screen to move a tiny bit, not enough to put in the spudger. There was enough space for a utility knife blade to stick in, though it was a 2 person, 3 handed operation. I pulled the screen up (a fraction of a millimeter) and got another person to slip the knife into the crack while I was pulling. Then I was able to use the knife to get 1 corner of the screen opened enough to use the spudger the rest of the way. @flannelist gave very helpful encouragement in the Q&A forum. Anyway I still have the rest of the steps to go, so let's hope they are easier.

    paul - Antwort

    i am out $600 (and am VERY angry) because what should have been obvious to point out here was not. had i read the comments in this section before proceeding this may not have happened. yes, of COURSE you need to wrap a zip tie around the phone to prevent it from opening too far. prying on the case and pulling hard with the suction cup will undoubtedly result in the cover snapping open and, given the laws of physics (momentum) will cause it to open too far and pull out the connector. i can't be certain that was why my phone did not work after replacing the battery (as it did before starting) but it's a good guess. thanks a lot!

    mark phillips - Antwort

    The suction cup worked too well in my case. The display assembly popped right out and a ribbon cable appeared to come completely disconnected from the home button. I proceeded with the rest of the battery replacement and think it all went as it should have, but now my device doesn't indicate that it's receiving a charge when plugged in, and no combination of pushing or holding the home and sleep/wake buttons does anything. My phone was well on its way to brick status, but this one slip-up seemed to secure it.

    JCR - Antwort

  7. iPhone 5s Display Einheit ersetzen, Display Einheit anheben: Schritt 7, Bild 1 von 1
    • Das Frontpanel ist mit Clips festgemacht und es gibt mehrere Flachbandkabel, die es mit dem übrigen Telefon verbinden. Dein Ziel hier ist, die Clips zu lösen und das Telefon gerade so weit zu öffnen, um die Kabel lösen zu können. Gehe langsam und behutsam vor, um Schäden zu vermeiden.

    • Achte darauf, dass der Saugnapf knapp über dem Home Button fest auf der Display Einheit sitzt.

    • Während du das iPhone mit einer Hand unten hältst, ziehe an dem Saugnapf, um die Display Einheit auf der Home Button Seite etwas vom hinteren Gehäuse zu entfernen.

    • Heble mithilfe eines Plastik Opening Tools die Kanten des hinteren Gehäuses vorsichtig nach unten, weg von der Display Einheit, während du mit dem Saugnapf nach oben ziehst.

    • Nimm dir Zeit und übe einen konstant kräftigen Zug aus. Die Display Einheit ist wesentlich fester eingepasst als bei den meisten anderen Geräten.

    Seriously consider the isclack. I have a lot of experience working with much more valuable equipment than a phone, and I had read all the precautions... but I broke the cable anyways. The isclack is specifically designed to open the phone but only wide enough to get the clips out, while saving your home button cable.

    llcoreyll - Antwort

    Agreed. The suction cup method shouldn't be mentioned. I'm also extremely delicate with electronics and gently opening the display with a single suction cup is essentially impossible. The spudger needs to do all the work.

    idmadj -

    Agreed, I really wish I had paid extra to buy the isclack. Didn’t because I thought that I could be careful—that iFixIt provided just the suction and it would take a few days to get the extra tool. Take the time. Its not worth it.

    Thought I was extremely careful—absolutely no movement or pull. Then pop. Pulled home button cord right out of its socket. Buying a new phone later today. The extra few days and additional cash would have totally been worth it.

    Timothy Fry -

    Found it very easy to do with a single suction cup, just wiggle and pry.

    emiserry -

    It may help to position the suction cup off-center and pull up one corner first.

    Rosemary McNaughton - Antwort

    Yes, I had problems initially (with the suction cup placed just above the home button) but placing it in the left corner did the trick.

    Brian Riess -

    Avoid spudgers, guitar picks, and other weird inventions, just use your fingernails. That way you can feel what's happening, and you won't accidentally slide them in and break something. They won't break the plastic rim thingy either, in contrast with spudgers. That's what fingernails evolved to do, so just use them.

    Konrad Tlatlik - Antwort

    Lol. Evolved fingernails to open phones.

    Chal Miller -

    Wrap a zip-tie loosely around the phone to avoid pulling the cover too far off and breaking the ribbon cable.

    Thor Lancaster - Antwort

    Thank you for the zip tie suggestion!

    W Fleming -

    YES - the loose zip-tie is the answer. This gives you the confidence to exert the force you need to pull the cover up. And you do need a bit of force!

    Jeremy Rodwell -

    Zip tie is a brilliant suggestion. Very robust and safe way to pull the phone apart--I had mine wrapped just above the home button and kept the case from opening beyond about 1/8 of an inch.

    bartonh - Antwort

    Used the suction cup and only my screen came up. Looks as though the screen delaminated from its black aluminum mounting tray. The home button stayed with the tray as well. Any ideas?

    Kyle Rogers - Antwort

    I got the battery and fitting kit from ifixit. the blue plastic levers that were included were not up to the job as the blade just bent when any pressure was applied. carefully using my own screwdrivers completed the task.

    adrt - Antwort

    We disagree with the naysayers. Patient use of the suction cup worked for us. The iFixit one didn't do it (it looked a bit deformed out of the box. But a random kids toy worked fine. Nothing fancy. Don't rush. Use an exacto as it starts to come up to slide in to the crevice. After that, works pretty well.

    Chris Twomey - Antwort

    The Jimmy tool worked for me. Managed to slide it in and twist slightly to pop the screen off without too much force.

    leeprobert - Antwort

    ifixit's sucktion cup and blue opening tool worked very well for me. I used the suction cup just enough to get the opening tool into a gap and gently pry out the clips. I'm glad that the display didn't give way too easily otherwise I might have damaged a cable. I wish I had read the zip tie comment first though.

    Scott Watson - Antwort

    ifixit's suction cup and blue opening tool worked well for me. Like the zip tie suggestion as a precaution.

    Erik Osborn - Antwort

    during reassembly, screen cracked worse than screen i was replacing!!

    Valerie Egan - Antwort

    Yup - I did the same thing… The top corner of the encasement was slightly bent from when I had dropped the phone and where the screen cracked originally. I didn’t notice it right away and when I went to “snap” the screen back down into place during reassembly, it wasn’t quite a perfect fit, and when I tried to press it into place, I cracked the new screen. Note to self - “check for small dents in the encasement and try to fix before trying to tighten down the screen”. The new cracked screen is still better than the one that I was replacing. I feel so dumb. Chalk it up to a rookie mistake I guess. Hopefully this little write up saves someone else from making the same mistake.

    Christopher Flynn -

    I also broke the screen (after replacing the battery). When closing up the screen, insert the top of the screen first, then lay the phone face down on a flat surface and apply pressure from the back of the phone. It worked for me…

    stopsurfing - Antwort

    This is a great idea! Works for me too!

    JC Alice -

    This comment definitely should be in the guide!! It is an awesome hint.

    Andre Silva -

    Yes, hooking the top part of the phone in first seems to be pretty important. Also the plastic rim had broken and detached, which made pressing the screen back in even harder. Laying the phone face down to press the screen back in that way probably saved me from breaking it. Major upvote on this comment.

    Leigh Martin -

    Zip-tie is an excellent idea which I used in 1 repair. Also using a single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

    Bryan Solo - Antwort

    Use some tape to limit how far the screen will open. I used wide packing tape, stuck it to the bottom of the display, where the home button is, and to the opposite side, on the back. It left a loop of tape, front to back, around the bottom of the phone, that had about an inch of slack. This allowed the display to pop off completely without any danger to the home button cable. No prying required.

    Michal Pawlowski - Antwort

    YES! I was just about to suggest this as I tore the home cable even though I was really careful opening it.

    Arthur Shi -

    The tape suggestion worked great! I used the suction cup, and the tape limited how far the display lifted once the snaps released. I’m sure I would have ripped the cable without this. No need to buy the iSlack to do this (if you have a suction cup)

    spyder13b -

    What worked extremely easy for me was I used a utility knife to score on the joint below the home button. The blade went in easy then lightly pried the screen up then followed up the rest of the way with the ifixit opening tool. I’m sure the ifixit Jimmy tool would work as well, instead of the utility knife.

    Scott Nacke - Antwort

    I wish I’d looked at the comments here before I tore the home button cable. I was trying to be careful and not to rip it but it just got away from me. Now I’ve ordered the replacement part…

    Graham Agnew - Antwort

    The glass of my screen went off at first and there was also a black plastic frame that I managed to peel off as well.

    At first I didn’t notice that the metal bracket didn’t come off. It was a bit of a struggle to lift the metal bracket.

    Wolfgang Bauer - Antwort

    Wish I’d read through these first.

    Used the suction cup but went too far when the display finally popped loose pulling the home button cable off the main board. Hope it was only the cable that was damaged - will try a replacement home button.

    Limiting the display’s travel with tape or a zip tie is an excellent idea !!!

    Leonard - Antwort

    I used the suction cup, but used a long screwdriver through the pull-ring help up with books either side piled to just lift the phone of the worksurface when I started to apple downward force on the phone. Meant that I could be more confident applying force as, if it did go suddenly, the phone would only travel the distance down to the surface. Had to add a few books as I hadn’t allowed for them compressing as I applied force.

    Peter Whitworth - Antwort

    This works SO well. I used this method, and it didn’t require much force to get one corner revealed to get the pry tool in there. After that it was smooth sailing. I had to reopen the phone a couple times to fix some things, and I was never nervous using this method. Thanks so much for the idea!!!!

    Colton Miller -

    We used the little suction cup the Ifixit supplies in the repair kit, NOT the iSclack. It took many attempts, patience, and two people working together, but ultimately we succeeded. Here are a few tips: soak the suction cup in very hot (just boiled) water for 5-10 minutes to get it really warm and pliable. As one person holds the phone and pulls up on the suction cup, the other should work the blue opening tool at the first sign of the display assembly starting to lift from the phone. Many times the suction cup would pop off but we kept heating the cup, resticking, and working it until we finally opened it. We used the cable tie suggestion above as well to be sure the phone would not open too far and this saved us when it finally popped free. Remember to work the clips on the side as well once you have a gap. Honestly, this took the most patience of all 62 steps! (Yes, there are 62 steps…only 54 more to go!)

    James M. Day - Antwort

    I could not exert enough force using the suction cup that came with iFixit battery replacement kit

    to pull the bottom of the screen away from the case. However, an X-acto knife inserted between the

    screen and the bottom edge of the case near the left corner allowed me to lift the screen sufficie

    ntly to insert a stiffer blade (a tiny screwdriver). Lifting further with the stiffer blade I was

    able to complete the separation by sliding the edge of a credit card along the bottom and sides of

    the screen. A plectrum would have worked as well. Using a knife blade eliminates the risk of dama

    ging the home-button cable.

    JPF - Antwort

    They really should include tips like a zip tie to prevent over opening and tearing the home button cable. Now I need to replace my home button.

    Lisa Jakubowsk - Antwort

    This step definitely scared me the most after reading all the comments, but with a helper this proved fairly simply. Using two suction cups I pried the case apart from the corner (not directly above the home button), just enough to barely fit the plastic opening tool into the notch. Unless you have 3 hands. Once in, you can release the tension from the suction cups, and simply pry the case open with the tool, to a satisfying pop.

    I used the zip tie trick, which is a clever idea. I don’t think it was necessary, but I would probably use this precaution again.

    Peter Spiegel - Antwort

    Patience is the key. At first I tried holding the phone in my hand and pulling on the suction cup. I finally put the phone on the table (like the instructions say…..duh) held the base in one hand while pulling on the suction cup with the other. I was getting movement but not enough to use the prying tool. After a bit of this I ran a razor blade along the bottom of the phone between the screen and the bottom casing. This broke whatever seal had built up between the two and the screen soon came off enough to use the prying tool.

    Gary Grinstead - Antwort

    In another guide there was a reference to the screen being pulled away from its frame? This was happening to me, so used very small amounts of superglue between screen and frome, applied using a cocktail stick. Left it for 24 hours. Worked fine.

    Wayne - Antwort

    I would echo most of these comments. I tried to be very careful, but still managed to pop up the display (it was very tight indeed), severing not only the home button but, as I later discovered, a cable at the other end of the phone.

    Really, get the proper tool.

    Ian Harris - Antwort

    razor blade: 1 min

    suction cup and other nonsense: 20 mins with zero progress

    Jordan Brennan - Antwort

    I used the iFixit kit (2019) with suction  cup. It worked perfectly fine. Absolutely imperative—USE A ZIPTIE (or one of the other suggestions such as box tape). It’s cumbersome to handle the phone and you might become preoccupied with positioning your hands that you apply an unmeasured amount of force.

    I wasn’t sure what to expect. Suction cup in place, plastic opening tool on the edge. As I adjusted hand position and applied force, BAM! the screen just popped up, and was saved by a ziptie.

    xtian - Antwort

    I had no problem using suction cup - put zip tie around phone just in case, but by slowly using plastic pry tool and pulling gently on suction cup from lower left side of phone, it separated quite easily. Keep prying around edges slowly so that you don’t get a big release.

    Patrick Pedersen - Antwort

    I pulled to dar when I did it, but got lucky and it only disconnected the cable right where i would have anyway. Everything seems to work fine but maybe there's damage and I dont know it. Anything to check?

    foyboy84 - Antwort

    I read about the zip tie precaution but as I didn’t have any in the house i just went on using the suction cup without any protection.. and in fact the phone snapped open at one point and the home button cable bracket flew away, as the cable separated from the socket… I imagined the worst happened but as the cable was still intact I wanted to check if for a miracle there wasn’t any damage, so I reconnected the home button to its socket and turned on the phone (still with the case open)… and I must had just consumed all my yearly luck subscription because everything worked fine including Touch ID!! So if you experience a situation similar to mine where the home button cable is still intact, give it a shot reconnecting and testing it before you order a replacement!

    Raziocinjo - Antwort

    This guide is flawed on this important point.

    I don’t see the point of posting a guide that doesn’t work.

    Other than the fact that i bought a fix it kit…

    It’s rattled my confidence in ifixit guides………….

    iain macleod - Antwort

    I’m not sure why you completely fail to mention the tool slot in the bottom left corner of the display? There’s a little slot here so once you get the screen open a little you can get a tool in and prise it open the rest of the way. I’m also not sure how people are destroying the touch ID cable here, it’s sensitive electronic equipment, so care and a bit of common sense is obviously required here. You have about 3cm leeway anyway, which I found was more than adequate. The display may stick a little at first, with years of accumulated dirt in my case, but with a bit of patience and gradually working away at it, it will release. Don’t be nervous and think you need an expensive tool like the iSclack, you really don’t. Just be really careful and don’t rush things.

    Jody - Antwort

    If you’re using the suction handle instead of the iSclack, I’d recomment tying a band around the bottom end of the iPhone to create a physical stop to prevent the front pulling away too far. Maybe something like a couple of tough rubber bands or a shoelace wrapped around two or three times with enough give to allow you to pull up the front, but to stop the it flying open if you pulled just a little too hard.

    I think a band of some kind like that should be included in the kit, it would be an inexpensive solution that allows people to use the cheaper suction handle but still safeguard the touch ID cable.

    Takako Jin - Antwort

    The suction cup of my Pro Tech Toolkit neither worked on tape nor screen, so I took the blade of my titanium scissors, pressed it against the side of the screen and lifted it while trying to find my third hand to put a spudger into the opening gap. This worked well in the end, but be careful.

    This step should also include hints about putting the new screen into its place. I was happy to press mine gently into the frame from edge to edge, feeling it bend but not break.

    sven - Antwort

    Suction cup does not work at all. I feel cheated. I will be taking the screen to a repair shop.

    cris@theworld.com - Antwort

  8. iPhone 5s Display Einheit ersetzen: Schritt 8, Bild 1 von 2 iPhone 5s Display Einheit ersetzen: Schritt 8, Bild 2 von 2
    • Versuche nicht, die Display Einheit vollständig vom hinteren Gehäuse zu lösen, da beide immer noch durch mehrere Flachbandkabel verbunden sind.

    • Ziehe an an der Kunststoffnoppe, um das Vakuum des Saugnapfes zu öffnen.

    • Entferne den Saugnapf vom Bildschirm.

    Cracked my screen using the supplied suction cup. Had to apply clear packing tape to screen to very patiently finish the job. However, now I need a new screen. How nice :-(

    Scott Stathis - Antwort

    I added a double face tape in the suction cup to make it work, and then, I did not try to remove it until I had unplugged the screen. It was inconvenient not being able to work with the screen in a horizontal position when removing the ‘home button’ but it wasn’t also the end of the world.

    Andre Silva - Antwort

    To reassemble, make sure you slide the little counterparts on the top of the display under the phone’s frame first. See this answer: Screen won't close tight after reassembly. To close the display after that, I simply turned the device around (on a cloth) and pushed down on the frame with a lot of pressure. Much better than trying to close each edge individually by hand.

    ursbraem - Antwort

    This operation went fine in my case, but I was concerned with what seemed like a lot of necessary force to get the supplied suction cup to adhere to the screen - I didn’t want to crack the glass. After a few unsuccessful tries, I did finally moisten the suction cup and it stuck solidly. I was also surprised that some careful prying was needed to get the screen to release.

    Ed Austin - Antwort

    I ripped the cable. Now I need a new phone. aghhh

    Tymon Van Diemen - Antwort

  9. iPhone 5s Display Einheit ersetzen, Kabelabdeckung der Touch ID entfernen: Schritt 9, Bild 1 von 3 iPhone 5s Display Einheit ersetzen, Kabelabdeckung der Touch ID entfernen: Schritt 9, Bild 2 von 3 iPhone 5s Display Einheit ersetzen, Kabelabdeckung der Touch ID entfernen: Schritt 9, Bild 3 von 3
    In diesem Schritt verwendetes Werkzeug:
    • Öffne das Telefon weit genug, um die Metallklammer, die das Home Button Kabel bedeckt, offenzulegen.

    • Öffne das Telefon nicht zu weit oder du riskierst eine Beschädigung des Home Button Kabels oder seines Anschlusses auf dem Logic Board. Das Kabel sollte locker sein – wenn es straff gespannt ist, ist es zuviel.

    • Nur die Original Home Button Einheit ermöglicht die Nutzung der Touch ID Funktion. Falls das Kabel beschädigt wurde, stellt die Installation einer neuen Home Button Einheit nur die normalen Funktionen wieder her, nicht aber die Touch ID Funktion.

    • Benutze die Spitze eines Spudgers, um die Klammer freizulegen und sie mit einer Pinzette zu entfernen.

    • Die nächsten beiden Schritte beziehen sich auf den Zusammenbau. Überspringe sie und fahre bei Schritt 12 fort.

    I had put some what more pressure to suck and sensor cable got detached from upper part(display) , now what shall i do , how to fix it ?

    Nikunj - Antwort

    Is the touch ID bracket really important or have any use ? I forgot to put it back… Is it going to malfunction ?

    John Doe - Antwort

    mine did not appear to have a bracket.. I am wondering too if this is going to mess with it?

    Donna Godfrey -

    It's there to keep it firmly in place.

    Didier Daniel -

    My bracket popped out when I opened the screen too far, so if you can’t see the bracket, look around inside your phone. it might be hiding out.

    lucy -

    Mine also doesn't seem to have a bracket. Plus the cable unclipped itself when the screen shot free - yikes. Looks OK though. I guess I'll find out soon enough.

    Gabe - Antwort

    I wrapped a velcro tie loosely around the phone so it wouldn't open up too far. (or could use a zip tie) Then while holding the screen down with one hand, I pulled the suction cup up with the other hand, using gradual pressure. while using a "wiggeling" upward pressure, I concentrated on raising the left side of the screen, which gradually started to loosen up. then I concentrated on the lower left corner until I had enough of a gap to work in the the flat surface of the plastic tool. I then pried on this corner. The screen then popped up without stressing the home button cable.


    Harry Jones - Antwort

    Genius. Pure genius.

    Aiden -

    This worked extremely well. Thank you! I used the tail of the zip tie as a nub to help hold down the phone while doing what you described. The left side of my phone opened easily but I had to use a combination of spunger and X-acto blade to free the end and right side.

    Once opened I placed the same plastic sponger just under the screen from one side to the other to hold it up to access home button cable.


    dleyes -

    This technique is fantastic.

    Boyd Waters -

    I found that when replacing the plate/cover, a pair of needle nosed tweezers held the plate by the 2 holes rather than by the edges (it jumped out repeatedly). I have taken a picture but need to upload it if its required? I also found that taking the new battery out of it's wrapper once out the box has to be done very carefully as the ribbon cable caught on the wrapper so be warned...

    andy - Antwort

    DITCH THE BRACKET! It's unnecessary, as the cable will never come loose under ordinary use. The bracket is also a danger in that if you open the case too far, the TouchID cable could break; without the bracket the cable will detach. Finally, reattaching that bracket is a nightmare. My wife, who drops her phone a lot and requires several new screens a year, has never had her bracket-free cable come lose.

    Max Powers - Antwort

    God bless you! My bracket flew off & vanished into thin air. I actually spent more time searching for it than replacing the battery. Everything seems to function without it- but your post (and your wife’s experience) puts my mind at ease. Thanks~

    madriverlauri -

    You say you have to use the original home button. But what is the button "bound" to? The motherboard?

    Iver søbakk - Antwort

    Yep. Bound to the phone CPU.

    Michael Walker -

    When I lifted my screen during this step, the metal LCD shield plate did not come out with the screen. Very confusing. I needed to carefully pry around the shield plate's side notches, just inside the walls of the iPhone's back, in order to lift it out. Required a trifle bit more force than I anticipated.

    Zac Imboden - Antwort

    I’m already limited to using a touch screen home button. (physical home button stopped responding but fingerprint works) Would this take away that functionality of my on screen home button? does this affect the fingerprint security feature?

    Kris704 - Antwort

    I used the 5S battery kit that iFixit shipped me and attached the suction cup to the screen and gently started pulling to lift the screen. It lifted revealing a very slight crack and I used the spudger tool with the suction cup still lifting away gently and it opened more. At no point did I see any home button cable???

    When the screen came off more I continued to follow all the other instructions and have got to step 23 … I see no battery adhesive tab???

    Just loads of black electrical tape blending in with the battery seal. So now I have no clue how to complete taking the battery out?

    Completely bummed at this point….

    Alun Williams - Antwort

    Sounds like you’ve got an iPhone 5. This guide is for the 5s. ;)

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Be forewarned: make sure you really really want that new battery or display replacement, because you are VERY likely to lose your Touch ID feature on your phone after taking this step. It is extremely sensitive. The front of the bracket is the point of tension that holds it in place. In my case, as I carefully used the spudger to release the bracket, the released tension shot the bracket out of the phone and the Touch ID cable popped out of its socket with it. This gave me a start but I inspected both parts and they appeared to be fine. I finished the battery replacement, and put the cable back in place only to discover: no Touch ID. Even after I re-opened the phone two more times and finally figured out how to properly reseat the bracket, Touch ID was gone. Judging by this experience the Touch ID cable/pins must be insanely sensitive – perhaps one pin was dislodged by a fraction of a millimeter? I can’t say for sure. But sadly after repeated and careful attempts to reseat it, my Touch ID is lost for good. :(

    N B - Antwort

    Same here. I thought I was being very careful but ended up damaging something even though everything looked fine. No more TouchID for this old iPhone 5S…

    Michael Walker -

    There’s an easy solution to this step: use hemostats (miniature vice grip). Took me about 10 seconds (after over an hour using various other tools).

    Robert Smith - Antwort

    Attention in this part!! I had to put more pressure than I should, then the bracket flew away and the cable also unplugged all together (probably placed the spudger beneath the cable instead of only beneath the bracket). I was lucky nothing bad happened, but I lost total control in this step (it was my only mistake).

    Andre Silva - Antwort

    Tape the screen to the case on the sides with some slack to keep the screen from opening too far.

    Nace - Antwort

    My screen came out too far and the flexcable got ripped out of the home button :/

    Your solution should be part of the official guide, it’s practical and everyone has tape at home, wish I had it done this way.

    alf -

    Just wedge the sharp end of the forceps between the bracket and the plug and push until the bracket pops open. That way there is no danger of tearing out the entire socket.

    Imre Treufeld - Antwort

    One way to easily access the bracket (for removal and for insertion) is to rotate the display around the cable connection horizontally, so that the screen is not above the bracket but rather to the side.

    When disassembling, note that the screen assembly is hinged to the bottom on the edge away from the home button. After first opening the screen to about 30 degrees as above, slide the screen in the direction where the home button was to disengage this hinge (this is the first bullet item in step 13 below). Then rotate to expose the bracket to eyes and tweezers.

    Yishai Sered - Antwort

    This metal bracket snaps over the plug, and there appears to be a snap detent on the front of the bracket (side facing the charging port). The first photo for this step show the spudger on the side closest to the battery (above the holes in the bracket). I would recommend pulling up on the side closest to the charging port. Also, as others mentioned, when this releases it will go flying - mine did too.

    Take note of how it’s oriented before you pop it loose - it only goes on one way (can’t be rotated 180 degrees)

    When re-installing the bracket later, I inserted the side closet to the battery first (like the 2nd photo in Step 10 below), then rotated it down (pressing it down). It snaps back in place

    spyder13b - Antwort

    completed the operation without any real problems, except the Touch ID cable bracket, which was tricky.

    But when all was together - the phone is dead - no screen - just black even when attached to loading cable.

    I went back in and made sure the battery cable was clicked in, reassembled and have the same problem.

    Rosalind - Antwort

    Same here. Did you ever get your device working again?

    JCR -

    Is the photo (step #9, photo #3) wrong? The bracket has a rectangular shape. On one of the shorter sides (of the rectangle), the rectangle is ‘open’. Shouldn’t this be the route for the cable?

    xtian - Antwort

    xtian, I see what you mean, but I replaced the bracket as in the picture, with the open side to the left, and the cable exited the bracket naturally, without problems.

    Elizabeth Simon -

    STEPS 9-12 need a re-working - Re-assembly instructions should be put just under the disassembly instructions so that when you scroll back up the page, you’re re-assembling in step order ;)

    Ashley Lahm - Antwort

    I lifted up the screen really slowly and kept the cable fully slack, but it was in two halves! The bit that folds back is seperate, have I wrecked Touch ID?

    TheRe - Antwort

    Help. Is there some trick to getting the home button reconnected? I gave up on reattaching the bracket, but the home button doesn’t work at all because the connection isn’t seated right. This is a problem as you can imagine. This was in the course of a battery replacement. Any tips greatly appreciated.

    Jeanne Bredestege - Antwort

    My phone did not have this bracket. Our other SE did.

    Dorothy Campbell - Antwort

    Like the first comment, it sprung open and the cable detached from the button. What can I do? How to I re-attach or get a new button with a new cable?

    Robert Venning - Antwort

    Dieser Teil ist der schwierigste, Ich habe zig Versuche gebraucht bei denen mir die Klammer immer wieder weggesprungen ist.

    Ich habe insgesammt deutlich über 2 Stunden gebraucht, hauptsächlich weil mir beide Klebestreifen abgerissen waren.

    Warum sind alle Kommentare in der deutschen Anleitung in englisch?

    mit_dt - Antwort

    Hallo! Derzeit gibt es noch nicht so viele Kommentare auf deutsch, wir zeigen daher alle Kommentare bei den Anleitungen an, egal in welcher Sprache sie geschrieben wurden, weil es ja trotzdem hilfreich sein kann, sie zu lesen. Du kannst oben rechts im Menü der Sprachauswahl die “machine translation” auf “ON” stellen, dann werden die Kommentare automatisch über Google translate übersetzt. Das ist zwar manchmal nicht so gut verständlich, aber besser als nichts, dachten wir.

    Sandra Hiller -

    The bracket is magnetic. I found it with a pair of large flat magnets from 1980s speaker woofers, but hard drive magnets should work too. It bounced off my lap to a meter away. I should have read comments FIRST.

    keesan - Antwort

    Okay, I'm confused. I just read on this site that all iphones post 6 you can use a different cable. Now mind you I have a 1st gen iphone SE, but this is the site that fixes for my phone are sent to... so am I screwed, or not? I have the original home button, so is there anyway to attach the cable off the replacement (OEM) top piece to my own home button? Thanks

    george - Antwort

  10. iPhone 5s Display Einheit ersetzen: Schritt 10, Bild 1 von 2 iPhone 5s Display Einheit ersetzen: Schritt 10, Bild 2 von 2
    • Beim Wiederzusammenbau musst du die Touch ID Kabelhalterung wieder einsetzen. Die obere Kante der Halterung muss sich vor die Metalllasche zwischen den Akku und dem Kabelstecker des Touch ID Kabels schieben. Die Unterkante muss über dem Stecker einrasten.

    • Schiebe die Oberseite von links nach rechts über den Anschluss des Touch ID Kabels.

    This is the hardest part lol

    Bob smith - Antwort

    I concur! I think I need thinner tweezers.

    FierDancr -

    1) Reassembly: Note the orientation, 2 clips toward the battery, 1 clip toward the bottom of the phone. Mine didn't "latch down" or stay in place - it just sort of sat there.

    2) Note that the rest of the bracket this attaches to must be removed from the Lightning Connector assembly & reattached to the new one.

    3) I combined this repair w/replacing the battery, and smashed the bottom of the bracket under the battery/adhesive strips. Careful not to do that, so that you can actually complete this step.

    seijihuzz01 - Antwort

    1) Reassembly: Note the orientation, 2 clips toward the battery, 1 clip toward the bottom of the phone.

    Sorry, but I believe this is wrong. Besides, the ‘clip(s)’ is not the important feature here. This bracket has a rectangular footprint, and one of the two shorter sides (of the rectangle) is open. This open side, I believe, is the route for the cable.

    xtian -

    Comment above was made on the Lightning Connector replacement guide - I guess it got pulled over here since as well since the steps are identical ... Anyway careful not to smash the bottom bracket w/the replacement battery or adhesive

    seijihuzz01 - Antwort

    That was fun without tweezers :)

    Oscar - Antwort

    Even with tweezers (the eyebrow kind) it was still an exercise in extreme calming techniques. I nearly gave up, but after 20 minutes I finally got it to seat and clamp.

    natzulf -

    It is fiddly and access is tight as all the connectors are in place. However, if you approach at the correct angle so that you are looking to latch the connector next to the battery first... Once this is in place and secure then gently push down the front of the bracket over the cable.

    copeconsultancy - Antwort

    I think it's the pics and the word 'slide' that throws people off. I tried this around 20 times to 'slide' it on from the left side, and was getting frustrated. My friend came over, laid the cover on the top, and just snapped it down into place. Still the guide had this down for me in 30 minutes even with the 'hardest part' haha and the part from ifixit worked and looked perfect.

    Brent Hillyer - Antwort

    After reading the comments I was not looking forward to this step on re-assembly. I agree that the pictures and the instruction to “slide” the bracket into place may be worrisome. But I was able to orient the bracket directly over where it was supposed to go. Then inserted the 2 clips (top) in first and easily and gently snapped the bottom clip into place. Probably spent less than a minute on this part.

    Jere -

    After about 20 minutes I wonder if I could just snap it in place. I did it in about 15 seconds.

    The “slide part and accompanying images are really misleading.

    jpfranc -

    It took me 10 minutes to accomplish this step; 9’:55’’ I spent reading the comments and 0:05’’ plugging the bracket the way you describe. This step step should be edited in this guide. It is definitely misleading people.

    Andre Silva -

    I tried this around 20 times to 'slide' it on from the left side, and was getting frustrated. My friend came over, laid the cover on the top, and just snapped it down into place.

    Tried this and yes, it worked well. Touch ID works.

    Basil Skrnk -

    DITCH THE BRACKET! It's unnecessary, as the cable will never come loose under ordinary use. The bracket is also a danger in that if you open the case too far, the TouchID cable could break; without the bracket the cable will detach. Finally, reattaching that bracket is a nightmare. My wife, who drops her phone a lot and requires several new screens a year, has never had her bracket-free cable come lose.

    Max Powers - Antwort

    Not everyone should ditch the bracket just because you did. The bracket is there to keep everything firmly in place.

    Didier Daniel -

    I did finally leave it off. I’m sure if I worked for Foxconn I could snap those on in seconds flat. After 30minutes of trying I figured it would either work or I’d have to spring fo a new phone. It just wasn’t gonna happen for me. Right now it’s working so it’s all about reliability now

    Bill Pennock -

    I'm not so patient, so I finally gave up and ditched the bracket. No problem so far. Anyway, ditch it at your own risk!

    Daniel del Saz -

    On an old 5S, the metal retainer bracket snapped in easily. There was no sliding, the rear edge dropped in straight, it hinged down, and locked almost before I knew it. The lack of a click or any positive feel on this critical connector surprised me a lot. I had to eyeball it with a magnifier to feel sure the ribbon connector was really in its socket. Works perfectly after the replacement, though.

    Jeff Clayton - Antwort

    All this time I was trying to put the bracket right next to the battery but that's not right. There's no way the bumps on the metal connector can fit in the slots on the bracket. It's battery, metal connector and then the bracket. So easy. Next time I dismantle an iPhone 5S I won't be dreading this step.

    Kim Mace - Antwort

    I should NOT have had that cup of coffee before I attempted this!

    Cory Powell - Antwort

    This was definitely the fiddliest bit of the whole reassembly.

    After trying the slide in and then press method many times without success I ended up feeding it in directly with the tweezers, carefully angling it back up into position, then clipping it down. But the whole thing took at least 5 minutes. And my shaky hands didn’t help matters!

    Toby Moncaster - Antwort

    I was sweting gallons during this step!

    Timothy Owens - Antwort

    The replacement of the bracket was tricky. The bracket has to be put in under the two tiny tabs in the back (next to the battery) and then pushing down in the front. I knew I had it when I heard a little click from the one tab in the front seating.

    Ron Wagner - Antwort

    HI Ron, you are almost right. Or at least I did clip in the front part first and then just push the back while the back side was in between the home button connector and that two pins (the bracket on the “board”). As you said it just click in and you could hear. That was after I tried put the back first and then clip the front for 15 min.

    Martin Chudomel -

    This step needs to be explained better! The metal bracket needs to be slid in front of the metal connector near the battery and then clicked down. I've been stuck on this step as I kept trying to slide it between the metal connector and battery!!

    Whitney Hourigan - Antwort

    Updated the text a bit, while correct, it didn’t mention the metal tab in relation to the battery and cable connector. Hope this helps the next person!

    Sam Goldheart -

    This was the most helpful when trying to get the bracket back on! Once you understand that it “clips” on after you slide it on, it makes getting the bracket back on much more easy.

    Jose Gutierrez -

    And for this step felt like a life long career of tiddly winks had commenced

    Jake Baxter - Antwort

    It is confusing in reassembly, that the steps 10 and 11 are in the ascending order, because we follow the guide backwards (I suggest explaining the correct sequence: …, 12, 10, 11, and ??. ?? —> This is another point of confusion, the next step is to fit the screen back in, but because there are many (alternative) steps to open the phone, all the useful comments about closing it are spread among topics 3 to 9. There should have been a box (step) exclusively to the part of fitting the screen , so the explanation is more clear and comments are put all together. There are extremely useful comments here that should be edited in the guide (to make it even better).

    Andre Silva - Antwort

    I am having trouble connecting the home button connector to the phone cpu? Not sure why it's not staying connected but was wondering it there was any advice. I've tried for about 20 minutes just trying to line it up and press it down but no luck…

    Trayvon Banks - Antwort

    3 times I’ve had to repair my 5S & this was the most frustrating part each time. This time I cheated & just placed the cover back on top of the cable & closed the phone up. No clicking or sliding or fumbling with it. Look at it from the left side & it’s a bit easier to see where it winds up, but I didn’t fuss with it. Phone works fine now anyway.

    seijihuzz01 - Antwort


    I struggled for a short time to get the bracket back into place. The bracket has a rectangular footprint. One edge has 1-clip and the other edge has 2-clips. I thought the 1-clip side was a ‘hook’. Haha. NOT! After taking a closer look, I could see the shape and understood how the piece should fit. It SNAPS into place.

    xtian - Antwort

    anyone else have any issues with the home button? i did everything according to the directions, but now the home button/fingerprint id is not working. Help!

    Robert Hartry - Antwort

    Reseating the Touch ID cable connector is definitely the trickiest part.

    Press fit for the connector back into the female connector side doesn’t snap in as it does on the other connectors.

    It took me 3 tries before the Home button would acknowledge the Touch ID. Make sure the connector is fully engaged by gently pushing the connector sidewise with the sprudger after you have seated the connector to make sure it is fully engaged. Gently though until it is clear there is resistance and it does not move.

    paul naecker - Antwort

    This step is incredibly difficult. I finally got the sensor snapped into place (gently), but could not get the clip in. Worst part was I placed the battery too close to the sensor chassis. So I think this is why I could not “slide” the clip into place. In the end, I left the clip off and put the phone back together. Everything works as before.

    John Schafer - Antwort

    STEPS 9-12 need a re-working - Re-assembly instructions should be put just under the disassembly instructions so that when you scroll back up the page, you’re re-assembling in step order ;)

    Ashley Lahm - Antwort

    I gave up also. Pressed down too hard and bent the part it clips onto. Just put a blob hot glue or Blu-tak in place. No problem. Works fine. Stupid design.

    blackettfenwicks - Antwort

    Wish I’d read the comments before attempting this step. I spent five minutes unsuccessfully trying to use the tweezers to slide the bracket onto the connector from left to right as described, then in frustration I squeezed too hard and the clip pinged out of the tweezers and vanished. Ten minutes searching the room and it was nowhere to be found. I’ll probably find it while tidying up in five years’ time and wonder what it is. I finished reassembling the phone without it and everything is working fine so far. Perhaps the home button connector is more likely to come loose if I drop the phone, but if it does at least I know how to pop it open and reconnect it.

    Alex Holden - Antwort

    I checked this on YouTube when re-assembling. The small tongue should be at the front and you should slide the clip to the right as far as it will go before pressing the bracket into place.

    harwood - Antwort

    This is hands down the hardest part.

    Worst thing is, that bracket lands always on the wrong side, when its dropped on the table to be picked up with tweezers, what are the odds?

    Joking aside, I ended up doing it slightly differently as in the instruction. I was not able to slide the bracket in from the side. It always slipped from the tweezers and was a pain.

    In the end, I took a different approach:

    Put the bracket on top of the connector, but too far towards the charging port (bottom of the phone); it will be angled towards the charging port, since the rear lip of the bracket still sits on top of the connector

    Then, align it above the connector (left/right) place a finger on it and push it towards the battery

    The lip will slide between the connector and the back fence, the front hook will also slide in place

    Finish it by pressing it down with the flat side of the spudger.

    Niklas Möller - Antwort

    I ripped this cable by accident. Definitely the hardest part

    Tymon Van Diemen - Antwort

    Oh bracket, what bracket? I just realized that I have indeed lost the bracket and just snapped the connector into the phone and screwed it shut. The 2010 battery swelled so much that is pushed the whole screen open so if I get a year out of it then great - just for the kids to mess about with. The Touch ID stopped working long ago but I'll know what to look for when the home button stops working. But 13 year old battery - wow and it just died here in 2023, but phone was not really used for past 6 years or so but I swear it powers up a year ago.

    buy - Antwort

  11. iPhone 5s Display Einheit ersetzen: Schritt 11, Bild 1 von 2 iPhone 5s Display Einheit ersetzen: Schritt 11, Bild 2 von 2
    • Drücke beim Wiederzusammenbau die Vorderseite der Touch ID Abdeckung mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers nach unten über den Anschluss.

    • Wenn sich die Abdeckung nicht bündig abschließen lässt, musst du sie vielleicht entfernen und erneut über den Anschluss schieben.

    It seems like a couple of these steps are reassembly steps? I wish they would label them as such. This step and step 10 are for reassembly, and it's confusing.

    Sheldon Carpenter - Antwort

    See the information line on Step 9 that says this exact thing?

    Elliot Fleming - Antwort

    STEPS 9-12 need a re-working - Re-assembly instructions should be put just under the disassembly instructions so that when you scroll back up the page, you’re re-assembling in step order ;)

    Ashley Lahm - Antwort

    The little clip is an utter “#*+}{ to refit. I gave up and put a drop of hot glue on or you could use blue tack. Makes no difference. Phone works fine.

    blackettfenwicks - Antwort

    I gave up assembling this little bracket and left it out. phone’s been working fine for past 10 minutes. I wonder if this will be a problem later though.

    rkain.kim - Antwort

    As has been well noted, reassembly of this clip is not self-evident. The clip itself is not a symmetrical piece; rather, it has a small tab on one side. What is its purpose and what is the correct alignment of the tab as it’s placed over the connector? Moreover, the available iFixit tools are not adequate to align and place into correct position, especially considering the restricted space (and light) to work in. After studying the problem, I decided to use a piece of rope caulk (used for weatherstripping) with its sticky texture to hold the clip in correct alignment before pressing it into final position.

    Peter Hartwick - Antwort

    As put so eloquently by many wise ones before me, that bracket is a %^#* to get back in. My approach was to put the needlenose tweezer tips through the two holes in the top, and push gently in the direction of the top of the phone as I applied downward pressure. With luck, I had it lined up JUST right on my 947th try, and it snapped right into place. Yikes.

    Max Discher - Antwort

    Got a message saying Touch ID couldn’t be activated. Reseated and back to normal.

    Instead of just lifting the screen to reassemble the clip you can turn the screen sideways so that it’s no longer covered.

    Stephen Shaw - Antwort

    The clip is not symmetrical! The side with one snap goes towards the speakers. CAREFULLY use the tweezers to gently set the clip down with the correct orientation. Then use the spudger to press it into place. (Sometimes one side, then the other side.)

    Take your time.

    Annette - Antwort

    Reassembly: It’s very often that you get the cable to snap to the connector on the board, but find that the device doesn't work properly. In most cases, re-seating the cable fixes the problem. S

    Sometimes, it's a bent pin on the connector, and then you have a problem… While I have been able to fix desktop CPU socket pins, I have never tried to fix a busted surfaces mount connector like these. I don't know if that's possible.

    Boyd Waters - Antwort

  12. iPhone 5s Display Einheit ersetzen, Home Button Kabelanschluss trennen: Schritt 12, Bild 1 von 2 iPhone 5s Display Einheit ersetzen, Home Button Kabelanschluss trennen: Schritt 12, Bild 2 von 2
    • Benutze die Spitze eines Spudgers, um die Home Button Kabelverbindung nach oben aus ihrem Anschluss zu hebeln.

    • Vergewissere dich, dass du die Kabelverbindung von ihrem Anschluss trennst und nicht den ganzen Anschluss nach oben hebelst. Der Anschluss befindet sich auf seinem eigenen festverklebten Kabel, das nach oben gehebelt werden kann, wenn du nicht aufpasst.

    Upon reassembly, I found this easier once I was looking at the connection from the bottom of the phone, as pictured. I had been trying to line up the connector from the side. Once I put on magnifying glasses and had really good light, I lined it up and slipped my finger in for the click.

    Oh, in a moment of relief after getting the cable connected, I quickly closed up the phone, forgetting to put the metal bracket covering the home button cable back on. I had to re-open the case. Don't be like me!

    Keystone - Antwort


    The original part bends the bottom home button connector back on itself into a bracket you have to remove (not mentioned in later steps).

    That bracket has a bit of adhesive to keep the bottom connector in place.

    The replacement part does not come with a bracket, or additional adhesive, so the bottom connector flops around & can make reassembly a challenge. I found it was best to hold right edge of the bottom in place w/1 finger, and use a 2nd finger to slide the upper cable connector left to right and click it into place.

    seijihuzz01 - Antwort

    Also worth mentioning is that upon reassembly, make sure that the home button cable folds to the left (away from the side with the SIM card) as the front panel will not fit properly otherwise.

    Brian Riess - Antwort


    Zhou Lin - Antwort


    Liu bing -

    STEPS 9-12 need a re-working - Re-assembly instructions should be put just under the disassembly instructions so that when you scroll back up the page, you’re re-assembling in step order ;)

    Ashley Lahm - Antwort

    The socket is on its own glued-down cable that can be pried up if you aren't careful.

    There is a mistake into the sentence …is on its own A glued-down cable…

    Diederik Wiersma - Antwort

    itself is even better

    kind regards

    Diederik Wiersma - Antwort

    put a piece of tape over the edge so you don’t rip the cable out like I did. I replaced the battery a few years ago and the screen came out muck easier. this time I broke the cable. Good-bye touch ID and iPhone 5S now I can only unlock the screen with a full reboot and home button is gone. to the trash can it goes! had it many years.

    ethan briggs - Antwort

  13. iPhone 5s Display Einheit ersetzen, Gerät öffnen: Schritt 13, Bild 1 von 3 iPhone 5s Display Einheit ersetzen, Gerät öffnen: Schritt 13, Bild 2 von 3 iPhone 5s Display Einheit ersetzen, Gerät öffnen: Schritt 13, Bild 3 von 3
    • Sobald der Stecker gelöst wurde, ziehe die Einheit am Ende mit dem Home Button weg vom hinteren Gehäuse, indem du das obere Teil des Telefons als Drehgelenk benutzt.

    • Öffne das Display bis zu einem 90°-Winkel und lehne es gegen einen festen Gegenstand, um es beim Arbeiten in dieser Position zu halten.

    • Ein Gummiband könnte hilfreich sein, um es in dieser Position zu halten und sicherzustellen, dass die Displaykabel nicht beschädigt werden.

    • Als Trick kannst du eine ungeöffnete Getränkedose als Halterung verwenden.

    maak een constructie waar de iPhone in valt en waarbij het scherm in een hoek van 90 graden kan worden gefixeerd, dan hoef je drie kabeltjes niet los te maken. Is mij heel goed gelukt .

    Joop Roos - Antwort

    Out of curiosity I decided to use google translate…here it is in English. “make a construction where the iPhone falls and the screen can be fixed at a 90 degree angle, you do not have to unlock three cables. I did very well.”

    Kelly Ann - Antwort

    Take a look at 3rd pic in step #13. Letting U know that this is basically what Joop Roos was trying to say. I tried it and it works very well, with one caveat: as U continue to work on your phone, it may move around a bit. Mine did, and after new battery was connected I moved phone around enough to accidentally press the button on top and it booted while the screen was still rubber banded to the box. I removed rubber bands and waited till I could touch “cancel” then pressed and held top button till the “slide to power off” thing showed up on the screen and then did so. After completion, everything was good with no problems. I think I was lucky. Please be mindful if U use this method of not disconnecting these cables in top right area.

    Siegfried - Antwort

    No need to remove the screen or any cable except that which is directly connected to the home button!!! just prop it open the phone with screen facing up, an angle of about 45 to 60 degrees will give enough working space to remove and replace the home button.

    The trickiest part is connecting the home button cable and getting its retaining clip in place.

    Dickon - Antwort

    We found the opening was not exactly easy to 90°, finally it did open completely. Be careful on the last degrees, the cables may pull little bit on the metal piece you are about to unmount in the next step. No worries, all worked fine. Just - be gentle with the cables when opening.

    Bernd Saegmueller - Antwort

    I was unable to remove one of the screws, but removing one and then just pivoting the battery connector bracket worked just fine.

    Gary Carlson - Antwort

    I think the little tabs at the top of my front panel assembly broke at this step. I found two little pieces of plastic inside the phone later on, and now, with everything finished and put back together, the top of the screen is a little loose: it’s seated 1-2mm too high and moves in when I press it.

    Maybe I should have pulled the top of the assembly out of the rear case, before hinging it up?

    Jacob Rosen - Antwort

    Kleine opmerking: correct Nederlands voor “blikje drinken” is “drankblikje”.

    flitsdoortstad - Antwort

    I took a spudger and proped up the screen with that. Works great!

    guardian10 - Antwort

  14. iPhone 5s Display Einheit ersetzen: Schritt 14, Bild 1 von 1
    • Entferne die beiden 1,6 mm Kreuzschlitz #000 Schrauben, die die Metallabdeckung über dem Akkuanschluss auf dem Logic Board befestigen.

    I don't see why steps 14, 15, and 16 are even necessary. I was able to remove the scene without removing the battery (skipping these 3 steps)

    Luke Lin - Antwort

    See Jonathan Goldsmith's comment ;)

    Didier Daniel -

    Working on the phone without removing the battery will most likely damage the component. My OnePlus One runs extremely slow after working on it without removing the battery. I think it's a problem with the GPU, because the display was very slow to update the screen contents.

    Peter Pan - Antwort

    Pan is right. Not removing the battery means you will run the risk of shorting some circuits not meant to be connected, and thus can damage those components. This can happen very easily, and without you even knowing it. Additionally, the internal components of a digital device are not meant to be disconnected while having any amount of power applied(and even though your device may not even turn on because the battery is completely shot, there very likely will still be a small amount of power coming from the battery to the internal components of the device). Doing so will likely cause an overcurrent condition that will damage the components of the device.

    Jonathan Goldsmith - Antwort

    Now my problem, however, is that the screws on this bracket do not seem to want to unscrew. :(

    Jonathan Goldsmith - Antwort

    Okay, the problem would seem to have been with the screwdriver that came with my iFixit battery "Fix kit". Tried another screwdriver, and no problems at all.

    Jonathan Goldsmith - Antwort

    Phillips #000 provided with the iFixit repair kit does not fit the screws

    Vitaly Kirichenko - Antwort

    I agree the #000 Phillips driver didn't work. I happened to already have a #0 Phillips that did work much better.

    Bruce Peffley -

    Same problem here

    Mikkel Albrechtsen -

    The screwdriver that came with the kit worked fine for me when I applied pressure with my palm to the end of the driver and turned the driver with my forefinger and thumb

    Tom Gleason - Antwort

    The ifixit #000 works…if you put an uncomfortable amount of pressure on the driver. Yikes. Use a larger bit if you’ve got it.

    Chris Wiley - Antwort

    i damaged the bottom screw with the phillips00 ifixit screwdriver :-(

    Pierre - Antwort

    It’d be nice if the iFixit people could address this problem with the PH000 driver. I am afraid of stripping the screw head because the PH000 I was sent doesn’t come close to catching in the screw head.

    orders - Antwort

    If you are having an issue with the PH#000 bit included with your iFixit Fix Kit then you can contact our customer support team at support@ifixit.com.

    Tom Gantt - Antwort

    The two screws are not exactly same size. (But very similar)

    If you switch them you’ll have issues with Bluetooth. I’m sorry but I don’t remember where is going the longer screw.

    pfx - Antwort

    With my phone I needed to use a PH0000 screwdriver. The provided PH000 (and my own from another screwdriver set) was too large. Indeed, every Phillips head screw in my phone needed the PH0000 and not the PH000 driver.

    rhowehmd - Antwort

    The video does not show this step, they go directly to the screen disassembly. Being that I was following the video, I did not disconnect the battery, and now it does not boot. :-( Thanks iFixit video .

    Robert Helgason - Antwort

    My screws seemed stripped, and when I went back to tighten it the scfrews got stuck, eventually one broke in the scoket. So I can’t screw down this protector. What does it do? Can I just get rid of it? Tap it down? Ideally Id have some eletrical tape and tape it down. But I don’t, and I just wanna toss it. AFraid it is important, or protects a circuit by conducting electricity

    Patrick Yerkes - Antwort

    I pretty consistently get the message, “unable to activate touch id on this iphone” if I connect the battery before connecting the group of cables in the upper right corner. It seems that if those are reattached while the battery is plugged in I see the touch ID error. Connecting the battery after connecting the upper-right corner group of cables has consistently helped. YMMV of course.

    David Brown - Antwort

    I don´t even have the logic board (if thats the silvery thing that the screws are keeping in place). Is the phone going to work without it?

    Hey hermano - Antwort

    I don’t understand you folks having problems with the #000 bit? I removed the screws without even thinking about it. My problem is the little antenna connector getting disconnected when I lifted the bracket plate! I mentioned it in Step 15

    jtreepro - Antwort

    I couldn't take out the upper screw, but I succed to turn the piece of metal on the left side in order to take out the battery connector.

    elisa_chocard - Antwort

  15. iPhone 5s Display Einheit ersetzen: Schritt 15, Bild 1 von 1
    • Entferne die Metallabdeckung aus deinem iPhone.

    Not clear to me why this and the next step are necessary for a screen replacement...

    Daniel Goldschmidt - Antwort

    Well, for one, Daniel, this is a BATTERY replacement tutorial. ???

    jtreepro -

    Using the iFixit tweezers to remove the bracket caused a spark. I used the plastic spudger instead.

    Bryan Remely - Antwort

    Is this tutorial or the iPhone SE? The battery should be 1624mAh but these pictures go back and forth between showing 1510and 1560mAh. Why are pictures showing different batteries, and why isn't it showig the 1624mAh for the 5 SE?

    Someone Somewhere - Antwort

    After installing the New iPhone 5s Lightning Connector Replacement I noticed there was no foam on top of the new plug, leaving bare metal exposed. I cut a small piece of electricians tape to be placed on top of the new plug to keep it from coming in contact with the metal battery connector bracket

    Scott Nacke - Antwort


    c0BRA - Antwort

    WHY? That is totally unnecessary!?!

    jtreepro -

    Battery connector bracket lifts out easily with fingernail (non-conductive, no sparks). Top screw (closer to hinge) is shorter. I taped both to a labelled piece of paper with Magic Plus 811 removable transparent tape.

    keesan - Antwort

    I can’t believe nobody has mentioned that the little antenna connector (visible here just to the right of the metal battery connector’s female screw socket, covered with a tiny piece of foam) might be stuck to the metal bracket, and come loose when you remove said bracket. It’s a challenge to get the foam off of it (for visibility), and reconnect! I have no suggestions to make it easier except to be patient! You’ll get it, but my SE almost got tossed across the room trying! ;-)

    jtreepro - Antwort

  16. iPhone 5s Display Einheit ersetzen: Schritt 16, Bild 1 von 2 iPhone 5s Display Einheit ersetzen: Schritt 16, Bild 2 von 2
    • Heble den Akkustecker mit einem Spudger vorsichtig von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.

    • Heble vorsichtig nur an dem Akkustecker selbst und nicht am Anschluss auf dem Logic Board. Wenn du am Anschluss auf dem Logic Board hebelst, kannst du den Anschluss zerstören oder andere Komponenten auf dem Logic Board beschädigen.

    pourquoi faire?

    Alexis Camper - Antwort

    Skip steps17-22. Just be extra careful and secure the screen. Less to go wrong the less you open.

    William Stein - Antwort

    Also order the headband magnifier. It really helps with the tiny components you are working with.

    William Stein - Antwort

    A way to skip step 17-22

    I unfolded as next step the display in a perpendicular way (so display unit and rest of the device in 90°) and fixed the display with an elastic band at an opened iPhone packaging box. Then I continued directly at step 23 with the removal of the battery without removing the display unit at all. Worked very well without any problems… and now I’m curious whether the new battery really powers the device for a longer time :-)

    Rolf Enderes - Antwort

    I also skipped the step of removing the dispaly, instead using a rubber band to secure the display to the iPhone box. Worked great, and avoided the hassle of disconnecting the display.

    Daniel Melchior - Antwort

    I skipped this step and I also removed my display. I don’t know what will happen in the future but there’s no problems till now...

    Ran Mika (Tshukimi Elune) - Antwort

    I didn’t realize that each of the photos contained different steps until later on, (the photos look very similar to each other in the thumbnails), and so I don’t think I removed the 2nd part of the battery attachment as its in the 2nd photo. I figured it out later, but only after step 20, which requires that the battery is fully disconnected before doing. Oops!

    Everything else went well though, and I’ve since reinstalled the battery, drained it, and recharged, and it seems to be fine. Will cross my fingers and hope I didn’t damage anything.

    Nancy Zan - Antwort

    If you do remove the display, it is helpful before removing the four diffferently sized screws to tape down a piece of masking tape, sticky side up, and remove them in a defined order, sticking them to the tape as you go. Then there’s no chance of mixing them up when you re-assemble.

    john lawn - Antwort

    Agree with William Stein above. Skip Steps 17-22. Simply secure the top of your phone with a rubber band to something sturdy. A 14 oz. can of kidney beans will do. I followed all of the other directions and the repair went smoothly and I didn’t lose Touch ID functionality. It was not necessary to heat my phone to remove the adhesive strips. I simply gently stretched and continually pulled at the base of the adhesive strip. Was rather surprised at how easy it was. Hardest part is re-attaching the home button cable connector and re-inserting the Touch ID cable bracket. When it’s time to reassemble those parts, be sure to go back through Steps 9-12, reading all of the comments for helpful tips. Used a Disney-Pixar-like desk lamp for good lighting and, also, the back of a refrigerator magnet to place the screws while working.

    CMac - Antwort

    Skip or Not to Skip, that is the question.

    I opted to skip the screen removal at first. Only when I had to replace the adhesive strips did I change my mind. Looking at the adhesive removal page, I believe the freedom of movement allowed without the screen in the way is key to successfully applying the adhesive strips.

    xtian -

    Screen removal is unnecessary, and avoids many opportunities for damage and trouble! I rubber banded the display to a small jar of peanut butter, and removed and replaced the battery with no issues. The adhesive strip on the outside pulled right out, but the inside one broke. I was able to pry the battery up enough to fish out the broken strip and pull the rest out. Replaced the battery, and all is well!

    Gary Loper -

    I followed the directions of pulling the tabs and I just went super slow and continued to move my placement down lower and closer to the base of the battery and wow came out so clean nothing to even scrape off. I did an iPhone 5 but it didn't have this adhesive. The battery was barely stuck inside so I got lucky being that the battery was swollen. Apple actually gave me a new iPhone 5 when my phones battery was swollen during the Apple 5 bad battery replacement.

    Heather - Antwort

    it seems very strange this step’s instruction does not mention the 4 microscopic components on the motherboard next to the socket on the opposite side to the battery. If you put your plastic pry tool all the way into the gap between the connector and the metal shield you are going to pop them off the board and they are so small you won’t ever notice this or feel it. There are plenty of posts on the internet asking “why did my 5s stop charging after I successfully repaired the screen” and this is a really common reason. Put your pry tool in the minimum amount to just catch the metal plate on the top of the connector to avoid this.

    James - Antwort

    I too must agree with James about inserting the pry tool. If you insert it at that angle, you run the very high chance of poping off components that are located between that gap. Those components aren’t just ‘nearby’, they’re IN that gap! There’re several YouTube vids about the replacement of those components and it is not for the faint of heart. One is a coil (you ‘can’ place a jumper across) and the other is either a resister or a capacitor and those must be replaced.

    Player Onesix - Antwort

    These 3 capacitors and especially one ferrite bead are real problem. Screwed 2 phones up, one totally dead the other one managed to get battery online again.

    Pry battery connector open either with tweezers from flex cable side or from the side of long connector (speaker, lightining port connector).

    Step 16 on photos is 50/50% success.

    valdek - Antwort

    I actually find that using your fingernail works brilliantly. just place your nail under the connector where you will feel a slight lip. this lets you know that you have just the connector and nothing else. then just pull up slightly and the connector pops off. Worked a treat for me first time and this is my 3rd SE i have opened now.

    Geoff King - Antwort

    I’ve destroyed components on logic board during this step as my pry tool tocuhed the board when prying. Now the phone won’t charge. Be extra careful.

    Betonos - Antwort

    Actually the pictures seem to be the same as iPhone 5S and not the SE although there are certainly differences. Specially on the battery connector.

    iFixit should add another note that warns the users of the delicate components next to the battery connector. They can easily pop and cause battery charging problems.

    shoeib - Antwort

    You guys need to put a warning here for those micro components in front of the connector. I hit one and now my phone restarts randomly.

    Jacob Hess - Antwort

    These Demo Pics really ought to be Directly Above the device/area of focus…

    Considering the perspective of pic(s), it is entirely probable for user to uncouple, seemingly similar, Lightning connector cable directly next to Battery Connector. Just to be safe, without incurring any additional risk or time to your BATTERY Repair:


    The Red Text Warning in this step is a bit confusing, but it’s definitely not referring to the ++Lightning connector cable++ (directly next to Battery Connector). And if you mistakenly uncouple one and not the [batt connector] other, like I did, You’ll Most Certainly Corrupt the (FL2400) Ferrite Bead Filter, While Attempting to Gently Pry heated (old) Battery From It’s Seat; Rendering your device’s charging capabilities Null.

    re: Is this what a damaged FL11 looks like on a iPhone SE?

    c0BRA - Antwort

    For reassembly, I had trouble getting the battery connector re-seated, because it had pulled out with the bracket, and I didn’t see its original placement. There a two (or three?) small gold dots just above (toward the top of the phone) where the top edge fits — so make sure those dots are visible when you’re trying to place the connector. Also, it fits a bit to the right edge of the phone (away from the battery), compared with the piece above it.

    Zora O'Neill - Antwort

    iPhone SE:

    Your guide shows exactly the WRONG way to pry off the battery connector. NEVER pry along the right edge of the connector, and NEVER attack the connector from a high angle. This deadly combo is almost guaranteed to break components.

    Pry the connector at the narrow edge furthest from the home button where there is nothing to damage, and use a shallow angle of attack so the pry force is mostly upwards.

    tns - Antwort

    We have just fallen foul of this too. The photo showing the prising off of the battery connector is, as the previous comment says, completely wrong and will result in damaging the tiny components just in front of the connector which is exactly what happened to us. Wish we’d read these comments but we assumed the photos and description were correct…..%#*@ !

    Ed Griffiths - Antwort

    Alles funktioniert bis auf das Aufladen. Statusanzeige: "5% geladen". Beim Betrieb ab Ladekabel startet das iPhone nach 1 Minute neu. Hätte ich eure Kommentare vorher gelesen, hätte ich es vermutlich nicht vermurkst!

    hagilu - Antwort

  17. iPhone 5s Display Einheit ersetzen: Schritt 17, Bild 1 von 1
    • Entferne die folgenden Schrauben, die die Abdeckung der Displaykabel am Logic Board befestigen:

    • Eine 1,7 mm Kreuzschlitz #000 Schraube

    • Eine 1,2 mm Kreuzschlitz #000 Schraube

    • Eine 1,3 mm Kreuzschlitz #000 Schraube

    • Noch eine 1,7 mm Kreuzschlitz #000 Schraube

    • Diese 1,7 mm Schraube wird in der Regel nicht von einem magnetisierten Schraubenzieher angezogen. Passe auf, dass du sie beim Entfernen nicht verlierst.

    • Es ist besonders wichtig, beim Wiederzusammenbau die Reihenfolge der Schrauben zu beachten. Beim versehentlichen Verwenden der 1,3 mm Schraube oder der 1,7 mm Schrauben im rechten unteren Loch wird ein beträchtlicher Schaden am Logic Board verursacht, der dazu führt, dass das Telefon nicht länger einwandfrei bootet.

    • Achte darauf, die Schrauben nicht zu fest zu ziehen. Wenn diese sich nicht einfach rein drehen lassen haben sie vielleicht die falsche Größe.

    Two screws at the bottom should be the most short, two screws on top are the longest, you got it wrong.Please official verification again, and reply to me. Thank you!

    CLAUDE - Antwort

    Hi Claude,

    Unfortunately I forgot to check at dis-assembly which screw goes back where at step 11 so I ended up following the instructions although, I would find it logical that the longer screws are for the top and the shorter ones for the bottom holes, which is what you mentioned also . I anyway ended up following the instructions and all went well except that I am now unable to hear anything while in a phone call connected to the Bluetooth in my car. The phone connects, I have the battery and network status on the screen of my car, I can receive SMS on the car's screen, I can stream music to the speakers but I cannot hear anything while in a call. I can hear the call ringing in the car speakers, I can answer it but after that it's silent.

    So, I was wondering:

    1. Did you hear back on your comment from iFixit?

    2. Did you install the screws back the way you mentioned in your comment? Did it work?

    3. Did you check / note down the position of the screws at dis-assembly?

    Thanks in advance.



    corneliumusat -

    Can anyone answer if the blue strips on the crews indicate which screws they are? They are all so small it's hard to find the right lengths for each hole

    Ariel Drotter -

    Does anyone know if the blue strips on the screws indicate their length? I'm finding it very hard to distinguish the lengths

    Ariel Drotter -

    @Ariel - The blue that you are seeing on the screws is simply leftover loctite compound that is used to prevent the screws from working their way loose during every day use and does not give any indication as to the length of the screw. You should notice that, generally, you have two lengths of screws out of the 4 that came out...2 with longer threads and two with shorter threads. The two with shorter threads need to go in the bottom two holes...these two screws are not exactly the same length (difference of 0.1 mm), but mixing them up should not cause any harm to the phone due to such a small difference. With the two longer ones that are leftover, only one of them will be magnetically attracted to your screwdriver...this is the one that goes in the top left hole. The one that does not easily attract to your screwdriver goes in the top right.

    iGuys -

    Hi Everyone,

    Claude is right, after re-arranging the screws so that the top two are the longest, bottom-right shortest and bottom left is the second-shortest the in-call audio came back with Bluetooth calls.

    The same was found and posted by Pete on the Apple Support Communities forums and, as mentioned, I can also confirm that this fix works.

    Hope this helps.



    corneliumusat - Antwort

    The magnetic mat its priceless I found. As I removed screws, I placed on magnetic mat and labeled right away. Reassembly time was a breeze.

    RayBob - Antwort

    Upside-down masking tape also works well, especially when labelled with corresponding step for each bit of parts!

    W Fleming -

    i did the battery replacement and now my gyro isnt working. I did not know the screws had different lengths. Think it will be ok if i take apart and put correctly or do i need a new logic board??

    William Boggs - Antwort

    The two 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screws should be placed on top and the 1.2 & 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw at the bottom.

    If you do not respect that order, the Bluetooth calls feature will not work anymore.

    Please change all the versions including this step.

    Louis Torres - Antwort

    I skipped steps 11-16 and that worked pretty well from me. On another commenter's advice, I simply used some packaging tape to tape onto the top of the screen, over the top of the phone, and onto the back of the phone to hold the display at a right angle to the rest of the device. Saved me all the trouble/risk of disconnecting the display, but if you use this method you should be VERY careful not to hit the display while removing the battery.

    lambdahindiii - Antwort

    I completely agree with lambdahindiii, skip steps 11 - 16 completely. You do have to be careful not to flip open the display, but it's manageable with some care.

    I will give disclaimer that I used 3.0x magnification with surgical loupes. Any kind of magnification will help. Also recommend using an LED head lamp for optimal illumination.

    wmlee1 -

    I'm going to upvote the suggestion to skip steps 11- 16 too.

    Some things to look out for:

    - Both the battery adhesive strips broke off for me so I had to pry the battery out. You do have to be careful as a good amount of pressure is needed to remove the battery that you don't twist the top display and break the connectors. It's just a trade-off of risks though - you won't have to worry about losing or inserting the wrong screws for the front panel connectors either.

    - The metal connector over the touch ID button is hard to put back in. It looks like one piece on the video but it's a separate metal piece that goes over the connector.

    - To open the case with the suction cup, I found it useful to place the cup more to one side, and lift that side up first and then work on the other side.

    Take your time and good luck all

    wilten -

    I agree. The steps to remove the display are unnecessary. I skipped these and had no issues.

    Matt Reier -

    On my phone it actually seems like one of the 1.7mm screws is non-magnetic (the other 3 screws are magnetic). Although this could be a botched repair job from a previous owner...

    I guess if it's intentional, it should be the top-right one, as that is closest to the compass IC.

    woods81 - Antwort

    You're right. The top right screw must be non-ferrous stainless. I've repaired tons of the5-5s and that screw is never magnetic.

    BJS -

    You are absolutely correct — the upper right one is the non-ferrous / non-magnetic one. I’ve made corrections to this guide and the guide for the iPhone 5 but each time the edits have been denied, once by @Reed Danis and the previous by @Walter Galan. Not sure why they’re denied — it’s obvious which one doesn’t stick to a magnetic screwdriver. This mistake makes these guides quite unreliable and will screw (ha) with the compass.

    Drtofu -

    Apparently it is non magnetic so as not to interfere with the compass. The iPhone 6 has moved tis down to the bottom near the battery connector.

    Jack -

    I was fixing a broken screen, when I noticed that the guy that had started the job before leaving it to me, had mixed up the screws for the battery that he changed by himself and step 11. So i started searching around for an answer when the startup just looped with the Apple logo. and I of course started here, and found out that he had mixed up the screws, but step 11 here, and the same step at this link: http://www.irepairnational.com/iphone-5s...

    shows two different ways to where the 1,2mm and the 1,7mm screws are being placed.

    what is the correct way?

    alexaamo91 - Antwort

    i had the 'blue screen of death' and here was my workaround:

    Apple logo then blue screen

    kgale4 -

    I was wondering exactly the same thing why we need to un-screw the screen? Anyway place the screws in the order they come and you should find no problems putting them back in right order.

    Also I found the screw driver comes with ifixit battery kit does not fit in the screws perfectly. Feeling a little large for these screws. Anyone else had the same experience?

    fredhdx - Antwort

    Because this guide is for more than one repair option instead of them having to type out several this fits in for replacment of screen. I didn't hav the kit but my #000 wasn’t the best for all I used a #00 just depends on if the tip isn't real pointy

    Heather -

    The screw 1.7mm screw (highlighted green) was magnetic on the phone I repaired, while the standoff near it in step #27 was not (*see my note in #27). Either I have different parts or the magnetism note was swapped. If anyone else can confirm or deny this it’d help the guide. Thanks.

    mnoivad - Antwort

    Invest in several colored Sharpie pens. When you see a red circle on the guide, tap that screw head with a red sharpie, orange, green, blue and so forth. This makes it almost fool-proof to not mix up your screws when re-assembling the phone or any other piece of equipment.

    Pete H - Antwort

    I cannot unscrew the Philips #000 screws in this step using iFixit's Philips #000 screwdriver. The screw does not even turn at all. I wonder about the screwdriver iFixit is using in the video - https://youtu.be/k_OpjhKAUCM?t=180 . Can we buy it ?

    Daylen - Antwort

    Putting the upper screws back in the bracket is a bit tricky--if you hold the screen at 90 degrees, the connector cables lift up the loose bracket, but if you lower the screen to allow the bracket to lay flat, you can't reach with a screw driver. Be very slow and patient and replace the upper left screw last (after the first three are tight)--these will hold down the bracket fairly well so you can aim the last (upper left) screw into the hole and push down as you tighten.

    bartonh - Antwort

    That is exactly how I did it; good hint. Thanks.

    Andre Silva -

    So I managed to loose the top right (non magnetic) screw. I saw it fall to the table, but it's gone. Wonder if it fell back into the phone, as there is a slight rattle sound when I shake it. Will there be any big surprises if I just reassemble without that screw?

    larserikkolden - Antwort

    How did it turn out? I lost the same screw.

    Austin Packard -

    If you keep the top steady these steps (17-22) could be skipped. That's how I did. Everything is ok.except screwdriver didn't undo upper one of the battery bracket I had to bend the bracket.

    Mehmet Hakan - Antwort

    I noticed that reassembling my device, if the metal bracket touch the hole of the 1.3mm screw the touch stopped working. I had to put a little piece of plastic between the hole and the bracket unable to put the screw in (or it would make contact between the hole and the bracket).

    Any suggestion?

    denis.g.94 - Antwort

    Hi Denis, could you be a bit more specific as to which metal bracket you are referring to please? also, where did you put the piece of plastic? Thank you.

    jamesmclachlan -

    Denis, could you be more specific please? Which metal bracket causes the problem and where did you put the piece of plastic?

    I have the same problem, (lost touch screen function).

    jamesmclachlan -

    Trying to get the screws into the holes and driving them in was extraordinarily challenging due in large part to their magnetic bond. Screws didn't want to leave the driver, once they were in they flew right back out as soon as the driver came within distance. To combat this, I suggest using a thin, clear tape (I used packing tape) cut into 4 strips and place each screw flat side down on one end of each strip of tape. Now you can easily maneuver and securely hold the screws into their holes as the driver pierces the tape easily screwing them in without losing them or your mind. Also, fridge magnets are good to retrieve screws that have fallen into iPhone's nooks and crannies, likewise from carpeting.

    James Lee - Antwort

    After aligning the bracket over the screw holes, I used the tweezers to pick the screw on its head and position it in the hole. Then, it was not difficult to use the screwdriver to fasten it.

    Andre Silva -

    If I messed up the screw placement, can it be redone and fixed by putting the screws back in prober order?

    Colm Noone - Antwort

    Like James Lee (above), I found reinserting the tiny screws quite difficult because the magnetic screwdriver would pull them out, with the screw adhering to the screwdriver at odd angles. What worked was to insert a screw with tweezers, then START the screw using the non-magnetic plastic pointy tool while holding down the plate so the screw could turn easily. Once the screw was started, I tightened it with the screwdriver.

    Sandy Trevor - Antwort

    Firstly do not just watch the video if you are going to do the battery replacement. I was too busy and stupid and only watched the video and boogered my Girlfiends 5S with the screw replacement boon doggle... You must read the iFix full instructions (forget the video) or you will screw it up!..

    yaterbob - Antwort

    The iFixit Kit I bought does NOT have the right screw driver to remove these screws. Neither phillips screwdrivers work - the point is much too sharp and does not grip the screw at all. Not happy with this purchase right now.

    Richard - Antwort

    Color coding the screw heads is an excellent idea. I used red for red - green for green - and black for orange - left the yellow one uncolored. Did a screen capture and labeled it to avoid confusion.

    Leonard - Antwort

    Also color a small area around the screws on the cable bracket. Makes it real easy to see which screw goes where.

    Leonard -

    I found out that you don’t need the 1.7mm screw. The shorter one will do and I don’t lose bluetooth.

    patjmccarthy - Antwort

    I used colored sharpies to keep track of the screws. I color coded the screw heads and around their holes. Worked like a charm.

    Brigham Okano - Antwort

    I managed to loose the socket of the green screw. Apparently, during my second disassembly of my iPhone the socket (which appears to be screwed in as well) came loose without me noticiing it and promptly vanished later on in the process, never to be seen again. The iPhone does seem to work without it, but still, I’d advise checking that they are still in place when you unmount the metal shield.

    Sven Siggelkow - Antwort

    Erroneamente ho sbagliato la combinazione delle viti e mi si è danneggiata l’iPhone.. che parte devo cambiare ?

    garino1990 - Antwort

    You do not actually have to remove the screen to replace the battery. Just tilt up the screen at a 60 degree angle from the phone and tape it open or have someone hold it up. That way you don’t have to flex the screen wires or inadvertently damage anything.

    Imre Treufeld - Antwort

    I also completed this repair successfully without removing the screen. I kept the screen at a 90 degree angle using the iPhone’s box and a rubber band as pictured in Step 13. I was nervous about bumping it while doing the rest of the steps and stretching the display cables too much, but it worked.

    garygrossman - Antwort

    If anyone is still using the dino-aged iphone 5s like me ;) , please follow the steps rather than the video patiently before putting it into action. The screw placement is extremely crucial during reassemble. I messed the screws up the first time and had problems with touch screen, it wasn’t working. Then I disassembled again. I was lucky to have sufficient eyesight to figure out the 1.7 mm screws - both magnetic and non-magnetic ones. In case of of lower left screw, I put the one I felt (!) the bigger one, and at the end, left the lower right hole unscrewed. It’s working fine now.

    Ananya Roy - Antwort

    I removed the screws and placed them on a white piece of paper in the orientation they belonged in and then removed the bracket covering the cables (step 18). At this point, looking at the 3 cables I needed to remove I thought one of these likely won’t go back on correctly and will be disabled. I had the screen securely at 90 degrees to the base using a juice glass and rubber band so I decided to put the bracket back on and skip to step 23. I wish I had thought of that before removing the screws as these are some tiny screws. It was difficult to see which end was the screw head and get it placed on the screwdriver for inserting into the hole. For the green (nonmagnetized) screw I used the tweezers to get it in the hole and then screwed it in.

    Gary Grinstead - Antwort

    Alas my screws got muddled without me realising and a long one went on the bottom right (as per the warning in the article). When you say “will result in damage”, would either of these count? 1) trapped in a cycle of booting with the white apple logo or 2) trapped in a loop of white apple logo followed by red screen

    Thanks, James

    James - Antwort

    I would think so. Even just lines could be damage to logic board. I got the screws figured out using the link I posted above as a guide to measure but my new screen won’t do anything. I bought it from eBay and I replaced battery first. I could see back light on broken screen prior to replacement and I get the chime when plugged in but absolutely nothing on the screen. I was very careful with the ribbon cables as it comes with them completely flat so I just seated the cables and slowly moved the screen to a 90 degree angle. Could I have broken something's in the ribbon cable?? Or maybe just pos screen? Read comments on seller after this noted is not oem and others had problems. s it possible to conn to iTunes and maybe fix problem if it’s a software issue? I don’t know what else to do at this point. Any help I should appreciated

    Heather -

    One doesn’t actually HAVE to remove the display. But it does make the removal of the battery easier, at it is very well glued to the back case.

    jimbbo - Antwort

    I didn’t set the screws aside so I had to measure which is super hard but here’s a link to an online free ruler and it has a command icon for you to input show me 1.7mm and then you can match up screw lengths. The website is https://www.ginifab.com/feeds/cm_to_inch...

    i hope this helps for anyone who removed the panel without reading the important steps first and i’m female lol.


    Heather - Antwort

    As mentioned, the screws are difficult to re-install. I found that sitting the screw on its head on the table and pressing down with my finger the screw will be set on your finger, head up. Then carefully put Philips driver into screw slot. It should come away and easily inserted into bracket.

    wdbowers - Antwort

    WRONG !!!

    The ONLY 1,7mm it's at the top left corner. All OTHERS are 1.3 mm. The 1.7mm it tue other screw under this part.

    I broke my phone because of this.

    Samuel Roy - Antwort

    is it necessary to put back this plate after reattached screen , cuz i didn’t , for futures swaps

    Nikolai Nikolov - Antwort

    With my phone I needed to use a PH0000 screwdriver. The provided PH000 (and my own from another screwdriver set) was too large. Indeed, every Phillips head screw in my phone needed the PH0000 and not the PH000 driver.

    rhowehmd - Antwort

    Don’t do it. Don’t do this step. With some gentle care you can get the battery replaced without ever removing the four tiny screws from !&&*.

    Bryce Nesbitt - Antwort

    This step and all the steps through 22 are not needed for replacing lighting connector- don’t know why they’re on this guide.

    Elijah Underhill-Miller - Antwort

    I totally agree with Elijah, I had to do this repair 3 times today and after the first time I realised that steps 17 to 22 are not necessary if you can find some way of keeping the screen upright. I propped my screen up using a flat headed toothpick and it worked fine providing you are careful.

    Micky McGuinness -

    Auf die Schritte 17 - 22 habe ich ebenfalls verzichtet.

    Den Akku konnte ich mit hochgeklappten Display entfernen.

    Die Klebestreifen sind zwar gerissen, aber mit Fön und sanfter Gewalt hat es funktioniert.

    Der neue Akku hat laut iMazing sogar 1736 mAh :-)

    beemer - Antwort

    I would agree with Bryce Nesbitt. DO NOT do these steps if all you’re going to do is replace the battery. Having disconnected and reconnected all this stuff, which absolutely was not needed to get the battery out, my touchscreen is no longer working and there’s a weird grid pattern all over the screen, which suggests to me that at least one of the connectors isn’t seated properly, so I’m going to have to do this all over again.

    Let me reiterate: DO NOT DO THIS IF ALL YOU WANT IS TO REPLACE THE BATTERY. Skip straight to step 23 where you start work to remove the battery adhesive tab and strips.

    bart.read - Antwort

    I’m sure someone can correct me, but this is my experience. The 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screw in the top right might be demagnetised for a reason. When I tried a magnetised screw in that position I found that I got a distinct yellowish tinge on my screen in the same place. So I removed the screw (couldn’t find the original as it disappeared off the face of the earth!), and re-assembled the phone without it.

    Don’t have any problems as far as I see having only 3 screws holding the bracket down…

    semmons - Antwort

    I had the 4 screws all neat and separated, then accidentally got a super-strong rare earth magnet too close to them, and they were all mixed up. To determine the difference between the 1.3 and 1.2, I pulled out calipers. I found both of mine to be 1.1 mm, so they weren’t different lengths. Also, all 4 of mine were attracted to the magnet.

    Robb M - Antwort

    Eek. I didn’t have access to this guide when taking my phone apart. I mostly access the internet on my phone as my laptop is super slow. I watched the YouTube video on my smart TV while doing the repair. So I didn’t know the screws were different sizes, they all looked pretty teeny tiny to me. Makes sense now that the top left one is longer, I got a bit frustrated trying to get that one in, and ended up putting it in last so the others would hold the plate in position. I do remember one didn’t stick to the screwdriver, and I actually dropped this one into the iPhone and then on the mottled carpet when I shook it out, but found it after a long search. Then I just put the screws in however they came to me. I hope they ended up okay. I already did it twice because the screen had lines on when I finished, and I also managed to inadvertently disconnect the on/off button and not reconnect properly. Need to make them click.

    PS I’m not sure you sufficiently stressed the importance of the screw order in the video.

    Jody - Antwort

    Good to know about the screw lengths. This section could have a larger font warning to carefully store the the screws in the right orientation, in separate compartments. I didn’t notice the notes on screw size until after I put all 4 screws in one compartment. I had to line up the screws (upside down) and eyeball which appeared to be which lengths using a magnifying lens. It took a few minutes but I figured it out due to their relative sizes.

    tshoran@hotmail.com - Antwort

    Suggest using a Sharpie to color-code screws before removal. Color screw heads (matching Step 17 if you like) and add a color circle around each screw head.

    MotorMac - Antwort

  18. iPhone 5s Display Einheit ersetzen: Schritt 18, Bild 1 von 1
    • Entferne die Abdeckung der Displaykabel vom Logic Board.

    At my iPhone 5s this part is missing!

    Michael Schöttner - Antwort

    Vor dem wiedereinsetzten des Bleches ist es ratsam den Monitor und den Touchsreen zu testen. Ich habe bis hier alles wiederholen müssen wegen Balken im oberen Bereich des Monitors und hackelnder Touchfunktion.

    mit_dt - Antwort

  19. iPhone 5s Display Einheit ersetzen: Schritt 19, Bild 1 von 2 iPhone 5s Display Einheit ersetzen: Schritt 19, Bild 2 von 2
    • Benutze das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um die Frontkamera sowie das Sensorkabel zu trennen.

    The flat end of the spudger works great to position and press down on the connectors during reassembly.

    Magnus Dalen - Antwort

    I did not try the spudger (but I think I should have), because this cable was the most difficult to me. It kept flipping (not aligning with the socket) and with one hand holding the screen and the other trying to connect was very difficult .

    Andre Silva -

    As shown in the picture, the cable needed to be pushed back with a bit of a bend to connect it during re-assembly

    Praveen Senadheera - Antwort

    During reassembly, it’s easier to reconnect by first placing the left side (close to battery) and then clicking it into place (than, say, top side first)

    Athanasius Pernath - Antwort

    In one of four iPhone SE ‘s on which I’ve done screen replacements, there was a rubber gasket left behind when I unplugged this cable. I was unable to seat the connector properly until I removed the gasket.

    Just adding in case you encounter this.

    Peter - Antwort

    Das Abbauen des Displays ist Schwachsinn da sich der Akku leicht auch tauschen lässt wenn das Display aufgeklappt mit einem Gummi

    an einer Getränkedose befestigt ist !

    Johannes Clauss - Antwort

    Important note: There are four connectors here but only three need removing. If you remove the one on the lower left just above the screw you’ll never get it back in. It connects to the motherboard, no the screen.

    Rusty - Antwort

    During reassembly, I found reattaching the front facing camera sensor cable to be the most difficult. I would recommend bending the cables to closely match those from the screen that your replacing. I know that sounds kindof funky , but I had difficulty lining it up.

    Jeffrey - Antwort

    Thanks for the gasket tip. I thought I was just crazy! Then pulled that gasket, and presto, it seated right away!

    Kent Alan Lee - Antwort

  20. iPhone 5s Display Einheit ersetzen: Schritt 20, Bild 1 von 2 iPhone 5s Display Einheit ersetzen: Schritt 20, Bild 2 von 2
    • Achte darauf, dass der Akku abgetrennt ist, bevor du das Kabel in diesem Schritt abtrennst oder wieder verbindest.

    • Trenne den LCD Kabelstecker ab.

    • Beim Wiederzusammenbau kann das Displaykabel sich vom Anschluss lösen. Dies kann beim Anschalten zu weißen Linien oder einem schwarzen Bildschirm führen. Wenn das passiert verbinde das Kabel einfach erneut und setze dein iPhone zurück. Der einfachste Weg, das zu tun, ist, den Akkuanschluss zu trennen und wieder zu verbinden.

    When you reassemble the cables, you can align them with the sockets using the tip of your finger. A spudger or tweezers are way too clunky and is actually far more difficult. When the cable aligns with the socket, give it a firm push with your finger tip and you should be able to feel it click into place. This is actually a pretty tight mechanical fit and is fairly hard to dislodge.

    Sheldon Carpenter - Antwort

    After some 4 seconds stripes start to appear and at the bottom a black band of some 3 mm horizontally over the screen. I've restarted, but it keeps showing a clean screen and then after a while the stripes and band start coming through. Is that a battery issue? And when I slide up the light intensity button, the screen starts shivering.

    Jules JUSTE - Antwort

    And in my wife’s samsung replacing a battery is so easy. I’ve wasted a whole evening and now have broken cables. I get to buy a new screen and no phone for a couple of days. What $@$* is Apple pullig on us here? :(

    Jules JUSTE - Antwort

    Because Apple wants you to just buy a new phone instead of replacing parts.

    Bryan Remely -

    No doubt about that.

    Bryan Thompson - Antwort

    What can I do

    i tried to remove the LCD CABLE WITH A METAL SCISSOR.



    Faheem Sameer - Antwort

    At the bottom and top are some hardly noticeable white stripes and an after reconnecting the cables 3 times with no difference I connected the old screen again. There were no stripes there… The cables on the new screen don’t look damaged. I’ve repaired other phone screens and I think my display has an issue… what should I do now?

    fele felix - Antwort

    So what happens if you don’t disconnect the battery before dis/reconnecting the LCD connector? Can you damage something irreversibly? I have what looks like a bad display ertifacts, lines, overall bustedness…) and am not sure if because I didn’t disconnect the battery…. I was following the lady in the video instead of the guide like an idiot…. She didn’t disconnect the battery. :P

    Tom - Antwort

    Same problem here (didn't disconnect the battery) my screen is just blank. Need help urgently

    Amina -

    What’s the problem with my phone? It shows the Apple Logo but it shows a black screen after. What happened?

    Marcus Jones - Antwort

    Touch screen not working after replacing home button?

    Gershkies - Antwort

    I have verticals red lines on my newly replaced screen….why?

    Jami Russell - Antwort

    Battery successfully replaced but screen had vertical lines. Re-seated LCD connector which fixed the lines problem. Got VERY FRUSTRATED trying to “slide” the Touch ID bracket over the cable connector, which I never managed to do. At some point, the screen stopped “working” and is now solid black. Re-seating the LCD connector didn’t help. How can I tell if I accidentally broke something along the way? Can I use a multimeter to find out?

    Carol Ramelb - Antwort

    I did not watch the Video replacing the 5s battery , but i did follow the directions given. I missed one important detail prior to removing the battery. I did not see the loop at the end of the battery so I ran the pointed end of the spudger along the battery. It took a long time to remove the battery using heat and bending the battery until I could get the adhesive strips off. The directions were a real asset and next time I will watch the video. Thanks! Your staff are the bests.

    MichaelW Parkman - Antwort

    Beware, it is easy to ruin the sockets on the SE motherboard, far easier than the 5s. Be extra careful pulling these cables.

    chumblyf - Antwort

  21. iPhone 5s Display Einheit ersetzen: Schritt 21, Bild 1 von 2 iPhone 5s Display Einheit ersetzen: Schritt 21, Bild 2 von 2
    • Trenne schließlich die Kabelverbindung des LCDs.

    When re-assembling, this is the most difficult cable to re-align and re-connect. A second set of hands is helpful. If not available, be patient and line up the connector carefully. Once reconnected, use care not to 'open' the front cover beyond about 85° to prevent pulling this one back off... If you do, you will have to power-cycle the phone (disconnect the battery) to get things working properly again.

    Pete H - Antwort

    I agree that this was the most difficult step during reassembly. I was trying to use the various tools, but shredded up some of the foam padding on the back of the connectors. After struggling with this for ~20 minutes, I realized just pressing each connector down gently with the tip of my finger snapped each one into place rather easily, no tools necessary.

    ilsedorec - Antwort

    pure genius, this works

    Oliver Markl -

    Reassembly—It’s all about the SNAP!

    I had the last-which-becomes-first connector down. Went to the second, and heard a very satisfying SNAP! Then, I became paranoid. Did the first connector snap? I don’t know?!? How did I put it down? What was that motion? What’s the level of the socket with its surroundings? Frack! I undid both, and the last connector gave a satisfying SNAP, when I disconnected it. HAHA. So now, I was paying close attention. I felt the level of the sockets, studied the Mondrian-like composition, and listened for the SNAP.

    xtian -

    xtian you king!


    After disconnecting and reconnecting the entire phone several times, my digitizer/touch screen still wasn’t working properly. In the end, it was all because I didn’t get the SNAP, which is the most important thing, especially with THIS connector. If you don’t hear the SNAP with this, it almost certainly won’t have worked. First time I did… hey presto!

    stick972 -

    Had to try 4 times until I finally got it right, I would say that less than 80° works well for this step, just take your time and be patient with the screws

    hermosillaignacio - Antwort

    It should be noted somewhere around these steps that all but one of these connections get removed.

    The connection that is left goes to the Power Button, the Mute Switch, and the Volume Buttons. This connection is on the bottom left, below the LCD power connection.

    This connector was not supposed to be removed, and I removed all of them as a force of habit.

    Once removed, it seems I removed part of the other half of the connector along with the first half.

    This has left my customer's iPhone functional, but none of the buttons, besides Home Button/TouchID), work.

    In the long run, this is not a huge issue, as AssistiveTouch can emulate physical button presses. I just figured it should be noted.

    Mikereilly2009 - Antwort

    Using the tool from the opposite side from what is shown here was many times easier (considering I had the front panel attach to a box with the rubber band trick)

    David - Antwort

    Agree, did the same thing.

    Andre Silva -

    After completing the battery replacement, when I turned the phone back on everything worked right except, the rear facing camera. It just shows a black screen. Does anyone know how I can fix this???

    Melissa - Antwort

    After I replaced my battery, I turned the phone back on and everything worked except the rear facing camera. It just shows a black screen now. Does anyone know what I did wrong??? I do I fix this???

    Melissa - Antwort

    I believe that you “bumped” the ribbon cable to the camera. I would open the phone back up and make sure it is making a good connection . In the picture above, the camera is the black square in the top right corner. Its connection is right below the spudger in this picture.

    Annette -

    For a better picture - The camera is connected by this ribbon:

    iPhone 5s Oberes Komponentenkabel ersetzen

    STEP# 28

    Annette -

    after battery replacing the Volume and Sleep buttons don’t work anymore. What I did wrong and what I can do to resolve the problem?


    Nicola - Antwort

    Step one is recheck your connections. If those are all solid, did you need to pry the battery up to remove it? It’s possible that the prying damaged the cables. If you have photos, share them on our Answers Forum, and you might get some better, more specific help!

    Sam Goldheart -

    I believe that you “bumped” the connection that is right below the spudger in this picture (it is a smaller connection than the one with the spudger on it and right next to the battery). Try opening the phone back up and making sure that button pad has a good connection. It is also the connection in this picture:  iPhone 5s Upper Component Cable Replacement. STEP # 25.

    Annette -

    I accidentally unplugged the power cable and although the digitizer cable is difficult to get plugged in, the power plug is a you know what!

    mcr4u2 - Antwort

    Reattaching the digitalizer connector is a ##&&% if you ty to keep the innards 90 degrees to the case using a rubber band and a box/can. Hold the innards in your hand to line up this connector. Once that is done the other two connections can be done with stabilized innards banded to a box/can.

    Dorothy Campbell - Antwort

    After replacing the battery on my iPhone SE (2016), the flash on the camera, the flashlight and the vibrate mode did not work. When I took it apart, this button assembly cable was not tight down. iPhone 5s Oberes Komponentenkabel ersetzen. STEP #25. It is also the connection right below the spudger in the picture. The smaller on close to the battery.

    Pushing it tight down and reassembly fixed all problems.

    Annette - Antwort

    After replacing the battery the touch screen doesn't work?? How do I fix this?

    SHVXIA - Antwort

  22. iPhone 5s Display Einheit ersetzen: Schritt 22, Bild 1 von 1
    • Entferne die Display Einheit vom hinteren Gehäuse.

    I replaced my old battery with the one I bought here in iFixit. I replaced the battery according to the instructions of this guide (Using a guitar string did the trick when removing the battery) and finally assembled the sensor ribbon. Turned on the phone and SURPRISE! Error, Touch ID Does Not Work. I was disappointed, in the most part because I was extremely careful, it's not my first repair, and I did not break the ribbon, the Home Button was working properly.

    I spent 4 hours re-seating the ribbon and putting in place the metal bracket.

    For you guys, who have lost Touch ID but didn't break the sensor flex cable AND the Home button works, I thing I have found a SOLUTION:

    As you can see in the picture (link below), a grounding Tip under the screw MUST be in THIS POSITION. If misaligned it will not work. Mine was misaligned during the display disassembly (STEP 16) and this was the solution. A smile returned to my face.



    Oscar Vera - Antwort

    Odd..my Touch ID stopped working after I replaced the battery too and I did not harm the connector cable at all and the bracket was snug in position. Then randomly 2 days later it started working again with all my fingerprints remembered. Weird.

    Bob smith -

    Dear Oscar,

    I am very interested in your comment but the photo is not available any more. Could you send the updated link?

    Thank you very much,


    Alex -

    The link to your photo is still not available. I do not understand which screw is being referred to associated with the fingerprint sensor.

    Toby Parnell -

    To anybody wondering what the picture was, Internet Archive saved it. You can find it here: https://web.archive.org/web/201606120038...

    It’s also the same picture as the 2nd picture in Step 23.

    Bryan Remely -

    Bryan Remely thank you so much. It’s comment threads like this and contributors like you that make the internet such a valuable tool.

    WILL D -

    why cant u disconnect the lcd and just put the new one in reverse from step 16? wgy to step 32

    Cameron Shelley - Antwort

    When you get the old screen off, check the frame edge where the digitizer rests. Mine was caked with gunk that had accumulated there from use. I gently used the tip of a spudger while holding the phone upside-down-ish and scraped out the gunk. Holding it upside-down kept the gunk from falling into the phone.

    Sheldon Carpenter - Antwort

    thanks for that... I didn't even notice it until I saw your comment.

    Brian Hayes -

    I’m completely confused about removing the connectors to the screen. It looks to me as though the battery could come out with the screen still attached. How am I wrong?

    Lance - Antwort


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Sam Goldheart

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3 Kommentare

... Log in for more steps.

-> Follow in reverse order is only new instruction -.-

Where are the steps for taking off the home button and the front camera and remounting those????

Haitham - Antwort

This tutorial will give you all the info you need:

iPhone 5s LCD mit Touchscreen wechseln

iGuys -

Ich fand es einfach und sehr gut ausgezeichnet erklärt

Feisal Elsafty - Antwort

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