Einleitung

Verwende diese Anleitung um einen defekten Ohrhörer-Lautsprecher in deinem iPhone 5s zu ersetzen.

Falls dein Displayglas gesprungen ist, halte die Bruchstelle zusammen und vermeide Verletzungen, indem du das Glas mit Tape versiehst. Lege sich überlagernde Streifen von durchsichtigem Paketband über das iPhone Display, bis die gesamte Frontseite bedeckt ist. Dies hält Glasscherben zusammen und erzeugt eine glattere Oberfläche für mehr Haftung. So lässt sich das Display besser vom Rückgehäuse lösen.
  • Falls dein Displayglas gesprungen ist, halte die Bruchstelle zusammen und vermeide Verletzungen, indem du das Glas mit Tape versiehst.

  • Lege sich überlagernde Streifen von durchsichtigem Paketband über das iPhone Display, bis die gesamte Frontseite bedeckt ist.

    • Dies hält Glasscherben zusammen und erzeugt eine glattere Oberfläche für mehr Haftung. So lässt sich das Display besser vom Rückgehäuse lösen.

  • Trage eine Schutzbrille, um deine Augen vor Splittern, die sich während des Reparaturvorgangs lösen können, zu schützen.

This was the most stressful thing I have ever done. I can't get the chips to pop in the top right corner, still coming up with white lines at top of screen even after re-powering the battery. Very poor experience, will let apple or a professional handle this rather than a how to. &&^& this.

steven krieger - Antwort

This is a Step 4 comment. I ordered the iSclack tool to help with my 5s battery replacement. After 30 minutes of trying to open the iPhone, I gave up and will try this later when I have a lot more time to spend on this. Before you ask, yes I did remove the two screws in Step 2. I must have a very tight fitting phone! Maybe next time I'll try a drop of oil on both suction cups to help with the adhesion. LOL, did not think I'd have trouble opening the case!

TerryChang - Antwort

An update. After months of living with my dead battery (iSclack would not work for me), I decided to use the provided suction cup, and surprise - it worked! LOL, so much for the iSclack tool! In any case, I followed the instructions and though it was a bit difficult (too small parts, too fat fingers, aging eyes), I was able to replace the battery. The battery removal was a bear, but with patience (and the use of an expired credit card as my lever), it did come out. Replacement of the adhesive strips was a puzzle - I eventually installed it "backwards" (removal hole in the tab on the left vs right) but this should not affect anything. Phone is charging now and preliminary testing of the home button/digitizer seem to be working. Once fully charged I'll do a full test on the phone to ensure I put things together correctly, but THANK YOU iFixIt for these instructions!

TerryChang -

I faced the same issue. My 5S wouldn't open with the iSclack. Had to use the suction cup instead. Even then, I wrestled with it for a whole 30 minutes.. Apparently my 5S is one sticky beast.

Daylen -

Firstly do not just watch the video if you are going to do the battery replacement. I was too busy and stupid and only watched the video and boogered my Girlfiends 5S with the screw replacement boon doggle... You must read the iFix full instructions (forget the video) or you will screw it up!.. It is not necessary to take the screen completely off. I did my 5 that was and assumed the 5S had a different protocol for a reason. It doesn't require removing the creen at all. I was careful on my 5 and had no problem. I took different prcautions and watched only the video and screwed up a perfectly good 5S... This means if your not backed up you just lost all your contacts and messages videos etc.... iFix is cool except their Video is not concise like the long instructions they provide. I was stupid and figured I new what i was doing after doing a couple other batteries and bingo I screwed it...

yaterbob - Antwort

Before embarking on this task, be sure you don't simply have built-up lint in the lightening port. I found that with a needle and some very CAREFUL workmanship removing lint/debris from the base of the port was what was ailing my machine.

mark40 - Antwort

Before embarking on this, remember to order some new replacement sticky adhesive strips, as these do not come with the replacement battery. I didn’t realise this until I had removed the battery. I just replaced it without and have crossed my fingers!

debsmcd6 - Antwort

As to my comment above, I had to order them and fit them to the battery as it was moving around inside!

debsmcd6 - Antwort

There is no need to over tape the screen; one strip is enough if wider to make a full cover. My screen was super fragmented and it worked beautifully with just one layer of tape.

Andre Silva - Antwort

Entlade den Akku deines iPhones auf unter 25%, bevor du weitermachst. Eine geladene Lithium-Ionen Batterie kann Feuer fangen und/oder explodieren, falls sie beschädigt wird.
  • Entlade den Akku deines iPhones auf unter 25%, bevor du weitermachst. Eine geladene Lithium-Ionen Batterie kann Feuer fangen und/oder explodieren, falls sie beschädigt wird.

  • Schalte dein iPhone aus, bevor du mit der Demontage beginnst.

  • Entferne die zwei 3,9 mm Pentalobe-Schrauben neben dem Lightning Connector.

I used a white terrycloth hand towel as my work surface and to position and retain all the screws and part in their relative positions, so I didn't mix things up. I also magnetized the screwdriver tips and that made it very easy to deal with these tiny, tiny screws.

Magnus Dalen - Antwort

For a secure working, put a small pot with lid on your workplace. When the battery starts burning, throw it in the pot, close it with the lid and get the pot safely out of the building, e.g. on the balcony or throw it out of the window. Do not try to extinct the battery with water, just let it burn out outside. This might take some hours.

Raymond Willems - Antwort

This is a really helpful one! My battery caught fire but luckily it was only one cell and not the entire battery. So it was done after a few seconds and I could go on with the replacement.

Matthias Blab -

Directions should say “use the P2 screwdriver head.”

William Kolb - Antwort

ifixit supplied a set of replacement philips screws (marked “Liberate!”). Thanks but I’m sticking with the pentalobe since they fit more securely than philips which have a chance of stripping if not held with the right amount of pressure.

Don Libes - Antwort

What are you supposed to do if the screws are stripped or won’t come out. No luck with the tweezers either.

ibrokeit - Antwort

Yep i‘ve had the same problem. One screw out, one that won‘t budge!!!

Stennett -

“cheater” reading glasses are a big help. Carolyn

Carolyn Green - Antwort

In this step, it is the P02 screwdriver from the kit (see that the nib has five sides , exactly for ‘pentalobe’ screws). All the other steps involving screws it was the Philips 000 (there was a third screwdriver Y 000 in the kit which I did not use). Did not have any problems at all removing and readding screws back through the process.

Andre Silva - Antwort

In den folgenden Schritten hebst du das Display vom restlichen Teil des Gehäuses ab. Das Display setzt sich zusammen aus dem Bildschirm und einem Plastikrahmen mit Metallklammern. Unabhängig vom verwendeten Werkzeug musst du darauf achten das ganze Display auf einmal abzuheben. Wenn sich der Bildschirm vom Rahmen löst, wie es im ersten Bild zu erkennen ist, schiebe ein Plastik Opening Tool zwischen den Plastikrahmen und den unteren Teil des Gehäuses, um die Metallklammern zu lösen.
  • In den folgenden Schritten hebst du das Display vom restlichen Teil des Gehäuses ab. Das Display setzt sich zusammen aus dem Bildschirm und einem Plastikrahmen mit Metallklammern.

  • Unabhängig vom verwendeten Werkzeug musst du darauf achten das ganze Display auf einmal abzuheben.

  • Wenn sich der Bildschirm vom Rahmen löst, wie es im ersten Bild zu erkennen ist, schiebe ein Plastik Opening Tool zwischen den Plastikrahmen und den unteren Teil des Gehäuses, um die Metallklammern zu lösen.

  • Wenn der Rahmen sich bei deinem Display abgelöst hat könnte es hilfreich sein, diesen vor dem Zusammenbau mit einem dünnen Streifen doppelseitigem Klebeband zu befestigen.

can this separation makes the screen stop working

bassam_shallak92 - Antwort

In my experience, dust particles have entered the screen, and partially ruins the wiewing experience, but this far the screen still works

Iver søbakk -

If the screen spilt and half is still stuck in the phone (clips broke and came out), how do I get the rest of the display panel up? It appears stuck, almost glued down.

Shara Nelson - Antwort

I was attempting to replace the battery on a phone that had been dropped once to create a dent in the top right corner, which pushed out the screen a tiny bit in that region, but not enough to break or render it non-functional. That all changed when I attempted to open my phone. I have a 5s and I had a friend’s broken SE that I was practicing on. I did not realize that either the construction of the screen is different, or that the dent in my phone would be that much of a problem. When I opened my phone, the top of the screen popped up almost immediately…. without the plastic bevel. It took a bit to get the bottom part open, but the plastic bevel in the top part was still stuck in the frame. I panicked and closed everything, but the screen was popped out from the frame even more and now when I turn on the phone, the screen has a green tint and won’t respond to touch :’(

Zhian Kamvar - Antwort

  • Die nächsten zwei Schritte zeigen, wie man den iSclack verwendet. Ein großartiges Werkzeug, um das iPhone sicher zu öffnen, das wir für jeden empfehlen, der mehr als eine Reparatur durchführen will. Wenn du den iSclack nicht verwendest, gehe weiter zu Schritt 6.

  • Schließe den Handgriff des iSclacks, wodurch sich die Saugnäpfehalter öffnen.

  • Platziere das Unterteil deines iPhone zwischen den Saugnäpfen gegen den Tiefenbegrenzer aus Kunststoff.

    • Der obere Saugnapf sollte sich gerade über dem Home Button befinden.

  • Öffne den Handgriff, um die Halter des iSclacks zu schließen. Platziere die Saugnäpfe mittig und drücke sie fest gegen die Ober- und Unterseite des iPhones.

DO NOT USE THIS METHOD. If the glue holding the glass to the screen assembly is weak, the force from the suction cup will pull the glass straight off. Instead, use a very thin flat metal tool to slide under the front face (carefully between the plastic edge strip and the metal case) and pry up. This is not only easier, but it is also a far safer method.

Izaac Post - Antwort

Thank you very much, however already used the suction cup and it came much easier than expected... Then snapped the home cable on my wife's phone... Now I have to replace that...

Thomas Hallberg -

This tool is worth its weight in gold to make opening the case without breaking things very easy. Highly recommend using it. I needed to use the little blue plastic pry bar tool on one side of the case to get the glass and frame to release from the back.

Magnus Dalen - Antwort

I used this tool on 2 successful screen replacements - BUT on the third time, the force did in fact separate the glass from the plastic, so I'd suggest inspecting first, and using with care.

Andrew - Antwort

This is the third repair using the iSclack it didn't have enough force to lift the face. I used the flat tool to help separate it. Thanks to those who warned against this tool due to pulling the glass face loose. I didn't think of that.

ldavis - Antwort

Umfasse dein iPhone mit festem Griff und schließe den Handgriff des iSclacks, um die Saugnäpfe auseinanderzubringen und dadurch die Display Einheit vom hinteren Gehäuse zu lösen. Der iSclack ist dazu entwickelt, dein iPhone sicher zu öffnen und zwar gerade soweit, um die Teile voneinander zu trennen, aber nicht weit genug, um das Home Button Kabel zu beschädigen.
  • Umfasse dein iPhone mit festem Griff und schließe den Handgriff des iSclacks, um die Saugnäpfe auseinanderzubringen und dadurch die Display Einheit vom hinteren Gehäuse zu lösen.

  • Der iSclack ist dazu entwickelt, dein iPhone sicher zu öffnen und zwar gerade soweit, um die Teile voneinander zu trennen, aber nicht weit genug, um das Home Button Kabel zu beschädigen.

  • Löse die beiden Saugnäpfe von deinem iPhone.

  • Überspringe die nächsten drei Schritte und fahre mit Schritt 9 fort.

Zip-tie is an excellent idea which I used in 1 repair(place zip-tie around home button area and hold in place while using the tool). Also using a single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

Bryan Solo - Antwort

The iSclack tool is a no brainer. I simply cleaned both areas were the suction cup secured to and pushed the ends of the iSclack together. Could not have been easier! The use of a zip tie did interest me, but I went the easiest way for no mistakes (iSclack). Be sure to hold the top of the phone securely, when open the bottom, which ever options you choose.

iScott - Antwort

This worked for me. Unfortunately I managed to pinch the fleshy bit of my index finger when closing shut the handles….ouch! So just be a bit careful!

debsmcd6 - Antwort

Wenn du keinen iSclack besitzt, benutze einen einzelnen Saugnapf, um die Display Einheit anzuheben:
  • Wenn du keinen iSclack besitzt, benutze einen einzelnen Saugnapf, um die Display Einheit anzuheben:

  • Presse einen Saugnapf auf das Display, direkt über dem Home Button.

  • Vergewissere dich, dass der Saugnapf vollständig auf dem Display aufliegt, um eine gute Haftung zu erzeugen.

My phone was too shattered to grip with my "Pump'itup" iFixit suction cup, and the method of adding packing tape over the display did not work either (still too lumpy). I ended up epoxying two 5" x 3/4" pieces of wood trim strips directly to the face of the phone, avoiding the Home switch and any seams, and positioning the wood to overhang the phone by ~2 inches. After 30 minutes of setting, I was able to lift up on the overhanging wood strips and pop the face of the phone out of the housing.

cpwittenberg - Antwort

Use a Stanley knife to push in between the back housing and the frame in the bottom left and corner and gently leaver up.

Much easier Than using suction cup but may slight scratch the frame or housing.

Craig Matthews -

I suspect that the age of the phone and accident that caused cracks make this method possible for some people. My mom's phone was only a month or so old and the suction cup only caused the screen to raise slightly. There was certainly no crack I could squeeze a spudger into. I just superglued the suction cup onto the screen in the end, which was very effective.

Caroline Russell -

Removed board. I ended up with a small shiny metal plate. Shown clearly in the above last posted photos just under the power button switch. Where does this goes?

Malcolm - Antwort

I was wondering the same thing. Did you ever figure out where this goes?

paul -

This has probably been replied to, but see step 31 :) Should be re installed with the pokey out bits pointing down.

daveoline -

Can someone please help me. I went through all of the steps and now my phone screen is all white and I can't see anything.

Lukeapple1414 - Antwort

First try a hard reset by holding down both the power button and the home button at the same time for at least 10 seconds. If that doesn't work, get back inside the phone and reseat the connectors. If the problem persists, either you received a bad part, or the part was damaged during installation.

iGuys -

My screen was too broken and the suction cup would not stick. I too a piece of Gorilla duct-tape and stuck it to itself and then also to the screen so that it made a "Tab" that I could pull up on. This worked much better than the suction cup.

Nathan - Antwort

@malcom @paul if you are referring to step 31 the plate needs to be placed as it comes out on the picture. Long flat part towards the top of the casing with the tab facing the right.

hari - Antwort

In my case, i found it easier to remove the sim - not sure if this was a placebo effect, but there you go!

also, there is a rubber seal around the screen - my experience is it should stay of the display, not on the main body.

Robert Colvin - Antwort

The amount of force I applied to open the case using the suction cup manually ended up tearing out the home button cable...ripping it in the process. Goodbye TouchID...see you next generation T_T

I would definitely recommend buying a stupid iSclack. I don't know why they'd even present the suction cup as an option. Maybe the 5S opens more easily when it's new. Now I need to decide between dropping more money on a new home button (and iSclack this time) or just hold out with the software home button.

johnsonjohnr - Antwort

Just lift slightly using the suction cup and on the bottom edge of the screen over to the left you'll see a slight gap open up just enough to get the spudger in. Don't use the suction cup to release the entire display assembly, just work around the edge with a spudger. This also helps clear some of the dirt build up.

daveoline -

I too tried the suction cup - worthless on cracked an only pulled off the many layers of packing tape applied as suggested. Used edge of utility knife to pry it up, then helper placed another blade underneath until I could pry it open. Great suggestion I read elsewhere, and only way I could get cover off.

I too skipped step 25. Definitely requires patience! Screen replacement was successful, but noticeable degradation in screen clarity/color from the original is somewhat disappointing. At half the price of OEM repair, would probably do it again though.

matttaylor - Antwort

If other people have this issue, I would try supergluing a screen protector over the old screen - leave a wide margin around the edges, home key, ear speaker. You could even just cut a piece of the protector into a square, or get a rectangle of shipping tape, the glued down portion needn't cover the whole screen. Then, glue the suction cup on top of the glued down screen protector or tape. I suggest this over the utility knife because it seems like the knife method would at the very least scratch up and nick the frame.

Caroline Russell -

i did this now i'm having a hard time putting the metal bracket back on :(

sineglabs - Antwort

1) Set suction cup off-center & pry up a corner instead of trying to yank open the whole thing. Wrap fingers around the entire phone while pulling so you don't inadvertently pull the display too far off.

2) Use a spudger, credit card, or guitar pick to pry it up once you have enough room to do so - don't pull any more than necessary.

3) There's a thin rubber edge around the entire display that might separate & stick to the bottom section. It should stay with the phone.

4) Reassembly: There are small plastic tabs on the top edge that you need to properly reseat in order to fully close the phone.

seijihuzz01 - Antwort

We got this to work. Some patience required, but absolutely doable. Our new iFixit suction cup did nothing, but a random one around the house worked fine. Just be patient and work it gently up, this use an opening tool or exacto blade to get into the seem once it comes up. Really quite doable. I'm glad I didn't spend 25 bucks on the fancy tool (a must for repeat use, I'm sure). But don't be deterred by the negatives above. Just go slow.

Chris Twomey - Antwort

I.did not read all the comments so I hope this isn’t redundant but my screen was too damaged to provide the air tonight seal that any suction device would need. The ifixit #3 flat head prayed the top out very easily. YMMV but I wouldn’t even try any other method before attempting to push the flat head down between the case and the glass. I thought it might bend the case out just a little causing a slight cosmetic damage but I have a rotective case that covers that anyway so who cares. Incidentally the case protected it from a lot of falls but not from gettin run over by my truck. A Prius once, but not the truck

Bill Pennock - Antwort

Oh and if you think this step is hard wait till you get to the screws on the home key or sliding the bracket back over the Touch ID cable connector. That is where the real problems are

Bill Pennock - Antwort

Single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

Bryan Solo - Antwort

I concur with Bryan’s post. The suction cup that was included with the toolkit that came with my battery wouldn’t hold to the screen when I pulled on it (the rubber was pretty soft, and the surface not smooth - not at all like the suction cup shown in the pictures of this guide). Fortunately I have a suction cup with a hook used typically for hanging things on the wall of a shower that held on quite tight that did the job - in fact, I had to use the point of the spudger to get under the edge of the suction cup to get it to release. I also used the zip tie trick someone else posted for making sure the screen didn’t open too far before disconnecting the home button cable, but it wasn’t necessary - I got the screen lifted with enough control that the cable was never in danger.

stuart40plus - Antwort

Suction cup supplied by ifixit worked for me. Of course I used all the tricks mentioned previously: Zip ties, work on one corner at a time, and work slowly - don’t expect it to pop out easily/quickly.

Don Libes - Antwort

Getting cocky after replacing a display screen and battery in a 6S i-Phone, I decided to open up my own -Phone SE and replace the old battery with a new one. I used one of the flip lever suction cup devices and it worked so well, that the display screen popped open so far that the Home Button Cable was torn off from the Home Button Assembly. I followed the instructions for re-assembly, but the damage was done. Lesson learned…read the Repair Guide before starting a repair!

Peter Bovey - Antwort

Suction cup for itself did not work for me. Then, I used a double face tape on it, and it worked nice (don’t try to remove the suction cup until you have fully unplugged the screen though). The suction cup should be used only to make a little gap for the other tools (spudger and that one which is blue). Sorry for the all caps, but ‘PULL THE SCREEN VERY SLOWLY’ (many people here commented there was a failure in this spet even being cautious).

Andre Silva - Antwort

Das Frontpanel ist mit Clips festgemacht und es gibt mehrere Flachbandkabel, die es mit dem übrigen Telefon verbinden. Dein Ziel hier ist, die Clips zu lösen und das Telefon gerade so weit zu öffnen, um die Kabel lösen zu können. Gehe langsam und behutsam vor, um Schäden zu vermeiden.
  • Das Frontpanel ist mit Clips festgemacht und es gibt mehrere Flachbandkabel, die es mit dem übrigen Telefon verbinden. Dein Ziel hier ist, die Clips zu lösen und das Telefon gerade so weit zu öffnen, um die Kabel lösen zu können. Gehe langsam und behutsam vor, um Schäden zu vermeiden.

  • Achte darauf, dass der Saugnapf knapp über dem Home Button fest auf der Display Einheit sitzt.

  • Während du das iPhone mit einer Hand unten hältst, ziehe an dem Saugnapf, um die Display Einheit auf der Home Button Seite etwas vom hinteren Gehäuse zu entfernen.

  • Heble mithilfe eines Plastik Opening Tools die Kanten des hinteren Gehäuses vorsichtig nach unten, weg von der Display Einheit, während du mit dem Saugnapf nach oben ziehst.

  • Nimm dir Zeit und übe einen konstant kräftigen Zug aus. Die Display Einheit ist bei diesen Geräten sehr fest eingepasst.

Seriously consider the isclack. I have a lot of experience working with much more valuable equipment than a phone, and I had read all the precautions... but I broke the cable anyways. The isclack is specifically designed to open the phone but only wide enough to get the clips out, while saving your home button cable.

llcoreyll - Antwort

Agreed. The suction cup method shouldn't be mentioned. I'm also extremely delicate with electronics and gently opening the display with a single suction cup is essentially impossible. The spudger needs to do all the work.

idmadj -

Agreed, I really wish I had paid extra to buy the isclack. Didn’t because I thought that I could be careful—that iFixIt provided just the suction and it would take a few days to get the extra tool. Take the time. Its not worth it.

Thought I was extremely careful—absolutely no movement or pull. Then pop. Pulled home button cord right out of its socket. Buying a new phone later today. The extra few days and additional cash would have totally been worth it.

Timothy Fry -

It may help to position the suction cup off-center and pull up one corner first.

Rosemary McNaughton - Antwort

Yes, I had problems initially (with the suction cup placed just above the home button) but placing it in the left corner did the trick.

Brian Riess -

Avoid spudgers, guitar picks, and other weird inventions, just use your fingernails. That way you can feel what's happening, and you won't accidentally slide them in and break something. They won't break the plastic rim thingy either, in contrast with spudgers. That's what fingernails evolved to do, so just use them.

Konrad Tlatlik - Antwort

Lol. Evolved fingernails to open phones.

Chal Miller -

Wrap a zip-tie loosely around the phone to avoid pulling the cover too far off and breaking the ribbon cable.

Thor Lancaster - Antwort

Thank you for the zip tie suggestion!

W Fleming -

Zip tie is a brilliant suggestion. Very robust and safe way to pull the phone apart--I had mine wrapped just above the home button and kept the case from opening beyond about 1/8 of an inch.

bartonh - Antwort

Used the suction cup and only my screen came up. Looks as though the screen delaminated from its black aluminum mounting tray. The home button stayed with the tray as well. Any ideas?

Kyle Rogers - Antwort

I got the battery and fitting kit from ifixit. the blue plastic levers that were included were not up to the job as the blade just bent when any pressure was applied. carefully using my own screwdrivers completed the task.

adrt - Antwort

We disagree with the naysayers. Patient use of the suction cup worked for us. The iFixit one didn't do it (it looked a bit deformed out of the box. But a random kids toy worked fine. Nothing fancy. Don't rush. Use an exacto as it starts to come up to slide in to the crevice. After that, works pretty well.

Chris Twomey - Antwort

The Jimmy tool worked for me. Managed to slide it in and twist slightly to pop the screen off without too much force.

leeprobert - Antwort

ifixit's sucktion cup and blue opening tool worked very well for me. I used the suction cup just enough to get the opening tool into a gap and gently pry out the clips. I'm glad that the display didn't give way too easily otherwise I might have damaged a cable. I wish I had read the zip tie comment first though.

Scott Watson - Antwort

ifixit's suction cup and blue opening tool worked well for me. Like the zip tie suggestion as a precaution.

Erik Osborn - Antwort

during reassembly, screen cracked worse than screen i was replacing!!

Valerie Egan - Antwort

Yup - I did the same thing… The top corner of the encasement was slightly bent from when I had dropped the phone and where the screen cracked originally. I didn’t notice it right away and when I went to “snap” the screen back down into place during reassembly, it wasn’t quite a perfect fit, and when I tried to press it into place, I cracked the new screen. Note to self - “check for small dents in the encasement and try to fix before trying to tighten down the screen”. The new cracked screen is still better than the one that I was replacing. I feel so dumb. Chalk it up to a rookie mistake I guess. Hopefully this little write up saves someone else from making the same mistake.

Christopher Flynn -

I also broke the screen (after replacing the battery). When closing up the screen, insert the top of the screen first, then lay the phone face down on a flat surface and apply pressure from the back of the phone. It worked for me…

stopsurfing - Antwort

This is a great idea! Works for me too!

JC Alice -

This comment definitely should be in the guide!! It is an awesome hint.

Andre Silva -

Zip-tie is an excellent idea which I used in 1 repair. Also using a single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

Bryan Solo - Antwort

Use some tape to limit how far the screen will open. I used wide packing tape, stuck it to the bottom of the display, where the home button is, and to the opposite side, on the back. It left a loop of tape, front to back, around the bottom of the phone, that had about an inch of slack. This allowed the display to pop off completely without any danger to the home button cable. No prying required.

Michal Pawlowski - Antwort

YES! I was just about to suggest this as I tore the home cable even though I was really careful opening it.

Arthur Shi -

What worked extremely easy for me was I used a utility knife to score on the joint below the home button. The blade went in easy then lightly pried the screen up then followed up the rest of the way with the ifixit opening tool. I’m sure the ifixit Jimmy tool would work as well, instead of the utility knife.

Scott Nacke - Antwort

I wish I’d looked at the comments here before I tore the home button cable. I was trying to be careful and not to rip it but it just got away from me. Now I’ve ordered the replacement part…

Graham Agnew - Antwort

The glass of my screen went off at first and there was also a black plastic frame that I managed to peel off as well.

At first I didn’t notice that the metal bracket didn’t come off. It was a bit of a struggle to lift the metal bracket.

Wolfgang Bauer - Antwort

Wish I’d read through these first.

Used the suction cup but went too far when the display finally popped loose pulling the home button cable off the main board. Hope it was only the cable that was damaged - will try a replacement home button.

Limiting the display’s travel with tape or a zip tie is an excellent idea !!!

Leonard - Antwort

I used the suction cup, but used a long screwdriver through the pull-ring help up with books either side piled to just lift the phone of the worksurface when I started to apple downward force on the phone. Meant that I could be more confident applying force as, if it did go suddenly, the phone would only travel the distance down to the surface. Had to add a few books as I hadn’t allowed for them compressing as I applied force.

Peter Whitworth - Antwort

We used the little suction cup the Ifixit supplies in the repair kit, NOT the iSclack. It took many attempts, patience, and two people working together, but ultimately we succeeded. Here are a few tips: soak the suction cup in very hot (just boiled) water for 5-10 minutes to get it really warm and pliable. As one person holds the phone and pulls up on the suction cup, the other should work the blue opening tool at the first sign of the display assembly starting to lift from the phone. Many times the suction cup would pop off but we kept heating the cup, resticking, and working it until we finally opened it. We used the cable tie suggestion above as well to be sure the phone would not open too far and this saved us when it finally popped free. Remember to work the clips on the side as well once you have a gap. Honestly, this took the most patience of all 62 steps! (Yes, there are 62 steps…only 54 more to go!)

James M. Day - Antwort

Versuche nicht, die Display Einheit vollständig vom hinteren Gehäuse zu lösen, da beide immer noch durch mehrere Flachbandkabel verbunden sind. Ziehe an an der Kunststoffnoppe, um das Vakuum des Saugnapfes zu öffnen.
  • Versuche nicht, die Display Einheit vollständig vom hinteren Gehäuse zu lösen, da beide immer noch durch mehrere Flachbandkabel verbunden sind.

  • Ziehe an an der Kunststoffnoppe, um das Vakuum des Saugnapfes zu öffnen.

  • Entferne den Saugnapf von der Display Einheit.

Cracked my screen using the supplied suction cup. Had to apply clear packing tape to screen to very patiently finish the job. However, now I need a new screen. How nice :-(

Scott Stathis - Antwort

I added a double face tape in the suction cup to make it work, and then, I did not try to remove it until I had unplugged the screen. It was inconvenient not being able to work with the screen in a horizontal position when removing the ‘home button’ but it wasn’t also the end of the world.

Andre Silva - Antwort

Öffne das Telefon weit genug, um die Metallklammer, die das Home Button Kabel bedeckt, offenzulegen. Öffne das Telefon nicht zu weit oder du riskierst eine Beschädigung des Home Button Kabels oder seines Anschlusses auf dem Logic Board. Das Kabel sollte locker sein – wenn es straff gespannt ist, ist es zuviel. Nur die Original Home Button Einheit ermöglicht die Nutzung der Touch ID Funktion. Falls das Kabel beschädigt wurde, stellt die Installation einer neuen Home Button Einheit nur die normalen Funktionen wieder her, nicht aber die Touch ID Funktion.
  • Öffne das Telefon weit genug, um die Metallklammer, die das Home Button Kabel bedeckt, offenzulegen.

  • Öffne das Telefon nicht zu weit oder du riskierst eine Beschädigung des Home Button Kabels oder seines Anschlusses auf dem Logic Board. Das Kabel sollte locker sein – wenn es straff gespannt ist, ist es zuviel.

    • Nur die Original Home Button Einheit ermöglicht die Nutzung der Touch ID Funktion. Falls das Kabel beschädigt wurde, stellt die Installation einer neuen Home Button Einheit nur die normalen Funktionen wieder her, nicht aber die Touch ID Funktion.

  • Benutze die Spitze eines Spudgers, um die Klammer freizulegen und sie mit einer Pinzette zu entfernen.

  • Die nächsten beiden Schritte beziehen sich auf den Zusammenbau. Überspringe sie und fahre bei Schritt 12 fort.

I had put some what more pressure to suck and sensor cable got detached from upper part(display) , now what shall i do , how to fix it ?

Nikunj - Antwort

Is the touch ID bracket really important or have any use ? I forgot to put it back… Is it going to malfunction ?

John Doe - Antwort

mine did not appear to have a bracket.. I am wondering too if this is going to mess with it?

Donna Godfrey -

It's there to keep it firmly in place.

Didier Daniel -

My bracket popped out when I opened the screen too far, so if you can’t see the bracket, look around inside your phone. it might be hiding out.

lucy -

Mine also doesn't seem to have a bracket. Plus the cable unclipped itself when the screen shot free - yikes. Looks OK though. I guess I'll find out soon enough.

Gabe - Antwort

I wrapped a velcro tie loosely around the phone so it wouldn't open up too far. (or could use a zip tie) Then while holding the screen down with one hand, I pulled the suction cup up with the other hand, using gradual pressure. while using a "wiggeling" upward pressure, I concentrated on raising the left side of the screen, which gradually started to loosen up. then I concentrated on the lower left corner until I had enough of a gap to work in the the flat surface of the plastic tool. I then pried on this corner. The screen then popped up without stressing the home button cable.

Harry

Harry Jones - Antwort

Genius. Pure genius.

Aiden Baker -

I found that when replacing the plate/cover, a pair of needle nosed tweezers held the plate by the 2 holes rather than by the edges (it jumped out repeatedly). I have taken a picture but need to upload it if its required? I also found that taking the new battery out of it's wrapper once out the box has to be done very carefully as the ribbon cable caught on the wrapper so be warned...

andy - Antwort

DITCH THE BRACKET! It's unnecessary, as the cable will never come loose under ordinary use. The bracket is also a danger in that if you open the case too far, the TouchID cable could break; without the bracket the cable will detach. Finally, reattaching that bracket is a nightmare. My wife, who drops her phone a lot and requires several new screens a year, has never had her bracket-free cable come lose.

Max Powers - Antwort

You say you have to use the original home button. But what is the button "bound" to? The motherboard?

Iver søbakk - Antwort

Yep. Bound to the phone CPU.

Michael Walker -

When I lifted my screen during this step, the metal LCD shield plate did not come out with the screen. Very confusing. I needed to carefully pry around the shield plate's side notches, just inside the walls of the iPhone's back, in order to lift it out. Required a trifle bit more force than I anticipated.

Zac Imboden - Antwort

I’m already limited to using a touch screen home button. (physical home button stopped responding but fingerprint works) Would this take away that functionality of my on screen home button? does this affect the fingerprint security feature?

Kris704 - Antwort

I used the 5S battery kit that iFixit shipped me and attached the suction cup to the screen and gently started pulling to lift the screen. It lifted revealing a very slight crack and I used the spudger tool with the suction cup still lifting away gently and it opened more. At no point did I see any home button cable???

When the screen came off more I continued to follow all the other instructions and have got to step 23 … I see no battery adhesive tab???

Just loads of black electrical tape blending in with the battery seal. So now I have no clue how to complete taking the battery out?

Completely bummed at this point….

Alun Williams - Antwort

Sounds like you’ve got an iPhone 5. This guide is for the 5s. ;)

Jeff Suovanen -

Be forewarned: make sure you really really want that new battery or display replacement, because you are VERY likely to lose your Touch ID feature on your phone after taking this step. It is extremely sensitive. The front of the bracket is the point of tension that holds it in place. In my case, as I carefully used the spudger to release the bracket, the released tension shot the bracket out of the phone and the Touch ID cable popped out of its socket with it. This gave me a start but I inspected both parts and they appeared to be fine. I finished the battery replacement, and put the cable back in place only to discover: no Touch ID. Even after I re-opened the phone two more times and finally figured out how to properly reseat the bracket, Touch ID was gone. Judging by this experience the Touch ID cable/pins must be insanely sensitive – perhaps one pin was dislodged by a fraction of a millimeter? I can’t say for sure. But sadly after repeated and careful attempts to reseat it, my Touch ID is lost for good. :(

N B - Antwort

Same here. I thought I was being very careful but ended up damaging something even though everything looked fine. No more TouchID for this old iPhone 5S…

Michael Walker -

There’s an easy solution to this step: use hemostats (miniature vice grip). Took me about 10 seconds (after over an hour using various other tools).

Robert Smith - Antwort

Attention in this part!! I had to put more pressure than I should, then the bracket flew away and the cable also unplugged all together (probably placed the spudger beneath the cable instead of only beneath the bracket). I was lucky nothing bad happened, but I lost total control in this step (it was my only mistake).

Andre Silva - Antwort

Tape the screen to the case on the sides with some slack to keep the screen from opening too far.

Nace - Antwort

Während dem Wiederzusammenbau musst du die Abdeckung des Touch ID Kabels wieder anbringen. Die obere Kante muss zwischen dem Akku und dem Anschluss des Touch ID Kabels liegen, die untere über den Anschluss ragen und davor einrasten. Schiebe die Oberseite von links nach rechts über den Anschluss des Touch ID Kabels.
  • Während dem Wiederzusammenbau musst du die Abdeckung des Touch ID Kabels wieder anbringen. Die obere Kante muss zwischen dem Akku und dem Anschluss des Touch ID Kabels liegen, die untere über den Anschluss ragen und davor einrasten.

  • Schiebe die Oberseite von links nach rechts über den Anschluss des Touch ID Kabels.

This is the hardest part lol

Bob smith - Antwort

I concur! I think I need thinner tweezers.

FierDancr -

1) Reassembly: Note the orientation, 2 clips toward the battery, 1 clip toward the bottom of the phone. Mine didn't "latch down" or stay in place - it just sort of sat there.

2) Note that the rest of the bracket this attaches to must be removed from the Lightning Connector assembly & reattached to the new one.

3) I combined this repair w/replacing the battery, and smashed the bottom of the bracket under the battery/adhesive strips. Careful not to do that, so that you can actually complete this step.

seijihuzz01 - Antwort

Comment above was made on the Lightning Connector replacement guide - I guess it got pulled over here since as well since the steps are identical ... Anyway careful not to smash the bottom bracket w/the replacement battery or adhesive

seijihuzz01 - Antwort

That was fun without tweezers :)

Oscar - Antwort

Even with tweezers (the eyebrow kind) it was still an exercise in extreme calming techniques. I nearly gave up, but after 20 minutes I finally got it to seat and clamp.

natzulf -

It is fiddly and access is tight as all the connectors are in place. However, if you approach at the correct angle so that you are looking to latch the connector next to the battery first... Once this is in place and secure then gently push down the front of the bracket over the cable.

copeconsultancy - Antwort

I think it's the pics and the word 'slide' that throws people off. I tried this around 20 times to 'slide' it on from the left side, and was getting frustrated. My friend came over, laid the cover on the top, and just snapped it down into place. Still the guide had this down for me in 30 minutes even with the 'hardest part' haha and the part from ifixit worked and looked perfect.

Brent Hillyer - Antwort

After reading the comments I was not looking forward to this step on re-assembly. I agree that the pictures and the instruction to “slide” the bracket into place may be worrisome. But I was able to orient the bracket directly over where it was supposed to go. Then inserted the 2 clips (top) in first and easily and gently snapped the bottom clip into place. Probably spent less than a minute on this part.

Jere -

After about 20 minutes I wonder if I could just snap it in place. I did it in about 15 seconds.

The “slide part and accompanying images are really misleading.

jpfranc -

It took me 10 minutes to accomplish this step; 9’:55’’ I spent reading the comments and 0:05’’ plugging the bracket the way you describe. This step step should be edited in this guide. It is definitely misleading people.

Andre Silva -

DITCH THE BRACKET! It's unnecessary, as the cable will never come loose under ordinary use. The bracket is also a danger in that if you open the case too far, the TouchID cable could break; without the bracket the cable will detach. Finally, reattaching that bracket is a nightmare. My wife, who drops her phone a lot and requires several new screens a year, has never had her bracket-free cable come lose.

Max Powers - Antwort

Not everyone should ditch the bracket just because you did. The bracket is there to keep everything firmly in place.

Didier Daniel -

I did finally leave it off. I’m sure if I worked for Foxconn I could snap those on in seconds flat. After 30minutes of trying I figured it would either work or I’d have to spring fo a new phone. It just wasn’t gonna happen for me. Right now it’s working so it’s all about reliability now

Bill Pennock -

I'm not so patient, so I finally gave up and ditched the bracket. No problem so far. Anyway, ditch it at your own risk!

Daniel del Saz -

On an old 5S, the metal retainer bracket snapped in easily. There was no sliding, the rear edge dropped in straight, it hinged down, and locked almost before I knew it. The lack of a click or any positive feel on this critical connector surprised me a lot. I had to eyeball it with a magnifier to feel sure the ribbon connector was really in its socket. Works perfectly after the replacement, though.

Jeff Clayton - Antwort

All this time I was trying to put the bracket right next to the battery but that's not right. There's no way the bumps on the metal connector can fit in the slots on the bracket. It's battery, metal connector and then the bracket. So easy. Next time I dismantle an iPhone 5S I won't be dreading this step.

Kim Mace - Antwort

I should NOT have had that cup of coffee before I attempted this!

Cory Powell - Antwort

This was definitely the fiddliest bit of the whole reassembly.

After trying the slide in and then press method many times without success I ended up feeding it in directly with the tweezers, carefully angling it back up into position, then clipping it down. But the whole thing took at least 5 minutes. And my shaky hands didn’t help matters!

Toby Moncaster - Antwort

I was sweting gallons during this step!

Timothy Owens - Antwort

The replacement of the bracket was tricky. The bracket has to be put in under the two tiny tabs in the back (next to the battery) and then pushing down in the front. I knew I had it when I heard a little click from the one tab in the front seating.

Ron Wagner - Antwort

HI Ron, you are almost right. Or at least I did clip in the front part first and then just push the back while the back side was in between the home button connector and that two pins (the bracket on the “board”). As you said it just click in and you could hear. That was after I tried put the back first and then clip the front for 15 min.

Martin Chudomel -

This step needs to be explained better! The metal bracket needs to be slid in front of the metal connector near the battery and then clicked down. I've been stuck on this step as I kept trying to slide it between the metal connector and battery!!

Whitney Hourigan - Antwort

Updated the text a bit, while correct, it didn’t mention the metal tab in relation to the battery and cable connector. Hope this helps the next person!

Sam Lionheart -

And for this step felt like a life long career of tiddly winks had commenced

Jake Baxter - Antwort

It is confusing in reassembly, that the steps 10 and 11 are in the ascending order, because we follow the guide backwards (I suggest explaining the correct sequence: …, 12, 10, 11, and ??. ?? —> This is another point of confusion, the next step is to fit the screen back in, but because there are many (alternative) steps to open the phone, all the useful comments about closing it are spread among topics 3 to 9. There should have been a box (step) exclusively to the part of fitting the screen , so the explanation is more clear and comments are put all together. There are extremely useful comments here that should be edited in the guide (to make it even better).

Andre Silva - Antwort

Drücke die Vorderseite der Touch ID Abdeckung  mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers nach unten über den Anschluss. Wenn sich die Abdeckung nicht bündig abschließen lässt, musst du sie vielleicht entfernen und erneut über den Anschluss schieben.
  • Drücke die Vorderseite der Touch ID Abdeckung mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers nach unten über den Anschluss.

  • Wenn sich die Abdeckung nicht bündig abschließen lässt, musst du sie vielleicht entfernen und erneut über den Anschluss schieben.

It seems like a couple of these steps are reassembly steps? I wish they would label them as such. This step and step 10 are for reassembly, and it's confusing.

Sheldon Carpenter - Antwort

See the information line on Step 9 that says this exact thing?

Elliot Fleming - Antwort

Benutze die Spitze eines Spudgers, um die Home Button Kabelverbindung nach oben aus ihrem Anschluss zu hebeln. Vergewissere dich, dass du die Kabelverbindung von ihrem Anschluss trennst und nicht den ganzen Anschluss nach oben hebelst. Der Anschluss befindet sich auf seinem eigenen festverklebten Kabel, das nach oben gehebelt werden kann, wenn du nicht aufpasst.
  • Benutze die Spitze eines Spudgers, um die Home Button Kabelverbindung nach oben aus ihrem Anschluss zu hebeln.

  • Vergewissere dich, dass du die Kabelverbindung von ihrem Anschluss trennst und nicht den ganzen Anschluss nach oben hebelst. Der Anschluss befindet sich auf seinem eigenen festverklebten Kabel, das nach oben gehebelt werden kann, wenn du nicht aufpasst.

Upon reassembly, I found this easier once I was looking at the connection from the bottom of the phone, as pictured. I had been trying to line up the connector from the side. Once I put on magnifying glasses and had really good light, I lined it up and slipped my finger in for the click.

Oh, in a moment of relief after getting the cable connected, I quickly closed up the phone, forgetting to put the metal bracket covering the home button cable back on. I had to re-open the case. Don't be like me!

Keystone - Antwort

Reassembly:

The original part bends the bottom home button connector back on itself into a bracket you have to remove (not mentioned in later steps).

That bracket has a bit of adhesive to keep the bottom connector in place.

The replacement part does not come with a bracket, or additional adhesive, so the bottom connector flops around & can make reassembly a challenge. I found it was best to hold right edge of the bottom in place w/1 finger, and use a 2nd finger to slide the upper cable connector left to right and click it into place.

seijihuzz01 - Antwort

Also worth mentioning is that upon reassembly, make sure that the home button cable folds to the left (away from the side with the SIM card) as the front panel will not fit properly otherwise.

Brian Riess - Antwort

这个地方必须小心,我上次就把底部接口搞坏了,害我换个电池的同时还换了一个尾插

Zhou Lin - Antwort

Sobald der Stecker gelöst wurde, ziehe die Einheit am Ende mit dem Home Button weg vom hinteren Gehäuse, indem du das obere Teil des Telefons als Drehgelenk benutzt. Öffne das Display bis zu einem 90°-Winkel und lehne es gegen einen festen Gegenstand, um es beim Arbeiten in dieser Position zu halten. Ein Gummiband könnte hilfreich sein, um es in dieser Position zu halten und sicherzustellen, dass die Displaykabel nicht beschädigt werden.
  • Sobald der Stecker gelöst wurde, ziehe die Einheit am Ende mit dem Home Button weg vom hinteren Gehäuse, indem du das obere Teil des Telefons als Drehgelenk benutzt.

  • Öffne das Display bis zu einem 90°-Winkel und lehne es gegen einen festen Gegenstand, um es beim Arbeiten in dieser Position zu halten.

  • Ein Gummiband könnte hilfreich sein, um es in dieser Position zu halten und sicherzustellen, dass die Displaykabel nicht beschädigt werden.

  • Als Trick kannst du eine ungeöffnete Getränkedose als Halterung verwenden.

maak een constructie waar de iPhone in valt en waarbij het scherm in een hoek van 90 graden kan worden gefixeerd, dan hoef je drie kabeltjes niet los te maken. Is mij heel goed gelukt .

Joop Roos - Antwort

Out of curiosity I decided to use google translate…here it is in English. “make a construction where the iPhone falls and the screen can be fixed at a 90 degree angle, you do not have to unlock three cables. I did very well.”

Kelly Ann - Antwort

Entferne die beiden 1,6 mm Kreuzschlitz #000 Schrauben, die die Metallabdeckung über dem Akkuanschluss auf dem Logic Board befestigen.
  • Entferne die beiden 1,6 mm Kreuzschlitz #000 Schrauben, die die Metallabdeckung über dem Akkuanschluss auf dem Logic Board befestigen.

I don't see why steps 14, 15, and 16 are even necessary. I was able to remove the scene without removing the battery (skipping these 3 steps)

Luke Lin - Antwort

See Jonathan Goldsmith's comment ;)

Didier Daniel -

Working on the phone without removing the battery will most likely damage the component. My OnePlus One runs extremely slow after working on it without removing the battery. I think it's a problem with the GPU, because the display was very slow to update the screen contents.

Peter Pan - Antwort

Pan is right. Not removing the battery means you will run the risk of shorting some circuits not meant to be connected, and thus can damage those components. This can happen very easily, and without you even knowing it. Additionally, the internal components of a digital device are not meant to be disconnected while having any amount of power applied(and even though your device may not even turn on because the battery is completely shot, there very likely will still be a small amount of power coming from the battery to the internal components of the device). Doing so will likely cause an overcurrent condition that will damage the components of the device.

Jonathan Goldsmith - Antwort

Now my problem, however, is that the screws on this bracket do not seem to want to unscrew. :(

Jonathan Goldsmith - Antwort

Okay, the problem would seem to have been with the screwdriver that came with my iFixit battery "Fix kit". Tried another screwdriver, and no problems at all.

Jonathan Goldsmith - Antwort

Phillips #000 provided with the iFixit repair kit does not fit the screws

Vitaly Kirichenko - Antwort

I agree the #000 Phillips driver didn't work. I happened to already have a #0 Phillips that did work much better.

Bruce Peffley -

Same problem here

Mikkel Albrechtsen -

The screwdriver that came with the kit worked fine for me when I applied pressure with my palm to the end of the driver and turned the driver with my forefinger and thumb

Tom Gleason - Antwort

The ifixit #000 works…if you put an uncomfortable amount of pressure on the driver. Yikes. Use a larger bit if you’ve got it.

Chris Wiley - Antwort

i damaged the bottom screw with the phillips00 ifixit screwdriver :-(

Pierre - Antwort

Entferne die Metallabdeckung aus deinem iPhone.
  • Entferne die Metallabdeckung aus deinem iPhone.

Not clear to me why this and the next step are necessary for a screen replacement...

Daniel Goldschmidt - Antwort

Using the iFixit tweezers to remove the bracket caused a spark. I used the plastic spudger instead.

Bryan Remely - Antwort

Is this tutorial or the iPhone SE? The battery should be 1624mAh but these pictures go back and forth between showing 1510and 1560mAh. Why are pictures showing different batteries, and why isn't it showig the 1624mAh for the 5 SE?

Someone Somewhere - Antwort

After installing the New iPhone 5s Lightning Connector Replacement I noticed there was no foam on top of the new plug, leaving bare metal exposed. I cut a small piece of electricians tape to be placed on top of the new plug to keep it from coming in contact with the metal battery connector bracket

Scott Nacke - Antwort

Heble den Akkustecker mit einem Spudger vorsichtig von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board. Heble vorsichtig nur an dem Akkustecker und nicht am Anschluss auf dem Logic Board. Wenn du an der Logic Board Buchse hebelst, kannst du den Anschluss irreparabel beschädigen.
  • Heble den Akkustecker mit einem Spudger vorsichtig von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.

  • Heble vorsichtig nur an dem Akkustecker und nicht am Anschluss auf dem Logic Board. Wenn du an der Logic Board Buchse hebelst, kannst du den Anschluss irreparabel beschädigen.

pourquoi faire?

Alexis Camper - Antwort

Skip steps17-22. Just be extra careful and secure the screen. Less to go wrong the less you open.

William Stein - Antwort

Also order the headband magnifier. It really helps with the tiny components you are working with.

William Stein - Antwort

A way to skip step 17-22

I unfolded as next step the display in a perpendicular way (so display unit and rest of the device in 90°) and fixed the display with an elastic band at an opened iPhone packaging box. Then I continued directly at step 23 with the removal of the battery without removing the display unit at all. Worked very well without any problems… and now I’m curious whether the new battery really powers the device for a longer time :-)

Rolf Enderes - Antwort

I also skipped the step of removing the dispaly, instead using a rubber band to secure the display to the iPhone box. Worked great, and avoided the hassle of disconnecting the display.

Daniel Melchior - Antwort

I skipped this step and I also removed my display. I don’t know what will happen in the future but there’s no problems till now...

Ran Mika (Tshukimi Elune) - Antwort

I didn’t realize that each of the photos contained different steps until later on, (the photos look very similar to each other in the thumbnails), and so I don’t think I removed the 2nd part of the battery attachment as its in the 2nd photo. I figured it out later, but only after step 20, which requires that the battery is fully disconnected before doing. Oops!

Everything else went well though, and I’ve since reinstalled the battery, drained it, and recharged, and it seems to be fine. Will cross my fingers and hope I didn’t damage anything.

Nancy Zan - Antwort

If you do remove the display, it is helpful before removing the four diffferently sized screws to tape down a piece of masking tape, sticky side up, and remove them in a defined order, sticking them to the tape as you go. Then there’s no chance of mixing them up when you re-assemble.

john lawn - Antwort

Entferne die folgenden Schrauben, die die Abdeckung der Displaykabel am Logic Board befestigen:
  • Entferne die folgenden Schrauben, die die Abdeckung der Displaykabel am Logic Board befestigen:

    • Eine 1,7 mm Kreuzschlitz #000 Schraube

    • Eine 1,2 mm Kreuzschlitz #000 Schraube

    • Eine 1,3 mm Kreuzschlitz #000 Schraube

    • Noch eine 1,7 mm Kreuzschlitz #000 Schraube

      • Diese 1,7 mm Schraube wird in der Regel nicht von einem magnetisierten Schraubenzieher angezogen. Passe auf, dass du sie beim Entfernen nicht verlierst.

    • Es ist besonders wichtig, beim Wiederzusammenbau die Reihenfolge der Schrauben zu beachten. Beim versehentlichen Verwenden der 1,3 mm Schraube oder der 1,7 mm Schrauben im rechten unteren Loch wird ein beträchtlicher Schaden am Logic Board verursacht, der dazu führt, dass das Telefon nicht länger einwandfrei bootet.

    • Achte darauf, die Schrauben nicht zu fest zu ziehen. Wenn diese sich nicht einfach rein drehen lassen haben sie vielleicht die falsche Größe.

Two screws at the bottom should be the most short, two screws on top are the longest, you got it wrong.Please official verification again, and reply to me. Thank you!

CLAUDE - Antwort

Hi Claude,

Unfortunately I forgot to check at dis-assembly which screw goes back where at step 11 so I ended up following the instructions although, I would find it logical that the longer screws are for the top and the shorter ones for the bottom holes, which is what you mentioned also . I anyway ended up following the instructions and all went well except that I am now unable to hear anything while in a phone call connected to the Bluetooth in my car. The phone connects, I have the battery and network status on the screen of my car, I can receive SMS on the car's screen, I can stream music to the speakers but I cannot hear anything while in a call. I can hear the call ringing in the car speakers, I can answer it but after that it's silent.

So, I was wondering:

1. Did you hear back on your comment from iFixit?

2. Did you install the screws back the way you mentioned in your comment? Did it work?

3. Did you check / note down the position of the screws at dis-assembly?

Thanks in advance.

Regards,

Cornel.

corneliumusat -

Can anyone answer if the blue strips on the crews indicate which screws they are? They are all so small it's hard to find the right lengths for each hole

Ariel Drotter -

Does anyone know if the blue strips on the screws indicate their length? I'm finding it very hard to distinguish the lengths

Ariel Drotter -

@Ariel - The blue that you are seeing on the screws is simply leftover loctite compound that is used to prevent the screws from working their way loose during every day use and does not give any indication as to the length of the screw. You should notice that, generally, you have two lengths of screws out of the 4 that came out...2 with longer threads and two with shorter threads. The two with shorter threads need to go in the bottom two holes...these two screws are not exactly the same length (difference of 0.1 mm), but mixing them up should not cause any harm to the phone due to such a small difference. With the two longer ones that are leftover, only one of them will be magnetically attracted to your screwdriver...this is the one that goes in the top left hole. The one that does not easily attract to your screwdriver goes in the top right.

iGuys -

Hi Everyone,

Claude is right, after re-arranging the screws so that the top two are the longest, bottom-right shortest and bottom left is the second-shortest the in-call audio came back with Bluetooth calls.

The same was found and posted by Pete on the Apple Support Communities forums and, as mentioned, I can also confirm that this fix works.

Hope this helps.

Regards,

Cornel.

corneliumusat - Antwort

The magnetic mat its priceless I found. As I removed screws, I placed on magnetic mat and labeled right away. Reassembly time was a breeze.

RayBob - Antwort

Upside-down masking tape also works well, especially when labelled with corresponding step for each bit of parts!

W Fleming -

i did the battery replacement and now my gyro isnt working. I did not know the screws had different lengths. Think it will be ok if i take apart and put correctly or do i need a new logic board??

William Boggs - Antwort

The two 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screws should be placed on top and the 1.2 & 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw at the bottom.

If you do not respect that order, the Bluetooth calls feature will not work anymore.

Please change all the versions including this step.

Louis Torres - Antwort

I skipped steps 11-16 and that worked pretty well from me. On another commenter's advice, I simply used some packaging tape to tape onto the top of the screen, over the top of the phone, and onto the back of the phone to hold the display at a right angle to the rest of the device. Saved me all the trouble/risk of disconnecting the display, but if you use this method you should be VERY careful not to hit the display while removing the battery.

lambdahindiii - Antwort

I completely agree with lambdahindiii, skip steps 11 - 16 completely. You do have to be careful not to flip open the display, but it's manageable with some care.

I will give disclaimer that I used 3.0x magnification with surgical loupes. Any kind of magnification will help. Also recommend using an LED head lamp for optimal illumination.

wmlee1 -

I'm going to upvote the suggestion to skip steps 11- 16 too.

Some things to look out for:

- Both the battery adhesive strips broke off for me so I had to pry the battery out. You do have to be careful as a good amount of pressure is needed to remove the battery that you don't twist the top display and break the connectors. It's just a trade-off of risks though - you won't have to worry about losing or inserting the wrong screws for the front panel connectors either.

- The metal connector over the touch ID button is hard to put back in. It looks like one piece on the video but it's a separate metal piece that goes over the connector.

- To open the case with the suction cup, I found it useful to place the cup more to one side, and lift that side up first and then work on the other side.

Take your time and good luck all

wilten -

I agree. The steps to remove the display are unnecessary. I skipped these and had no issues.

Matt Reier -

On my phone it actually seems like one of the 1.7mm screws is non-magnetic (the other 3 screws are magnetic). Although this could be a botched repair job from a previous owner...

I guess if it's intentional, it should be the top-right one, as that is closest to the compass IC.

woods81 - Antwort

You're right. The top right screw must be non-ferrous stainless. I've repaired tons of the5-5s and that screw is never magnetic.

BJS -

You are absolutely correct — the upper right one is the non-ferrous / non-magnetic one. I’ve made corrections to this guide and the guide for the iPhone 5 but each time the edits have been denied, once by @Reed Danis and the previous by @Walter Galan. Not sure why they’re denied — it’s obvious which one doesn’t stick to a magnetic screwdriver. This mistake makes these guides quite unreliable and will screw (ha) with the compass.

Drtofu -

Apparently it is non magnetic so as not to interfere with the compass. The iPhone 6 has moved tis down to the bottom near the battery connector.

Jack -

I was fixing a broken screen, when I noticed that the guy that had started the job before leaving it to me, had mixed up the screws for the battery that he changed by himself and step 11. So i started searching around for an answer when the startup just looped with the Apple logo. and I of course started here, and found out that he had mixed up the screws, but step 11 here, and the same step at this link: http://www.irepairnational.com/iphone-5s...

shows two different ways to where the 1,2mm and the 1,7mm screws are being placed.

what is the correct way?

alexaamo91 - Antwort

i had the 'blue screen of death' and here was my workaround:

Apple logo then blue screen

kgale4 -

I was wondering exactly the same thing why we need to un-screw the screen? Anyway place the screws in the order they come and you should find no problems putting them back in right order.

Also I found the screw driver comes with ifixit battery kit does not fit in the screws perfectly. Feeling a little large for these screws. Anyone else had the same experience?

fredhdx - Antwort

The screw 1.7mm screw (highlighted green) was magnetic on the phone I repaired, while the standoff near it in step #27 was not (*see my note in #27). Either I have different parts or the magnetism note was swapped. If anyone else can confirm or deny this it’d help the guide. Thanks.

mnoivad - Antwort

Invest in several colored Sharpie pens. When you see a red circle on the guide, tap that screw head with a red sharpie, orange, green, blue and so forth. This makes it almost fool-proof to not mix up your screws when re-assembling the phone or any other piece of equipment.

Pete H - Antwort

I cannot unscrew the Philips #000 screws in this step using iFixit's Philips #000 screwdriver. The screw does not even turn at all. I wonder about the screwdriver iFixit is using in the video - https://youtu.be/k_OpjhKAUCM?t=180 . Can we buy it ?

Daylen - Antwort

Putting the upper screws back in the bracket is a bit tricky--if you hold the screen at 90 degrees, the connector cables lift up the loose bracket, but if you lower the screen to allow the bracket to lay flat, you can't reach with a screw driver. Be very slow and patient and replace the upper left screw last (after the first three are tight)--these will hold down the bracket fairly well so you can aim the last (upper left) screw into the hole and push down as you tighten.

bartonh - Antwort

That is exactly how I did it; good hint. Thanks.

Andre Silva -

So I managed to loose the top right (non magnetic) screw. I saw it fall to the table, but it's gone. Wonder if it fell back into the phone, as there is a slight rattle sound when I shake it. Will there be any big surprises if I just reassemble without that screw?

larserikkolden - Antwort

If you keep the top steady these steps (17-22) could be skipped. That's how I did. Everything is ok.except screwdriver didn't undo upper one of the battery bracket I had to bend the bracket.

Mehmet Hakan - Antwort

I noticed that reassembling my device, if the metal bracket touch the hole of the 1.3mm screw the touch stopped working. I had to put a little piece of plastic between the hole and the bracket unable to put the screw in (or it would make contact between the hole and the bracket).

Any suggestion?

denis.g.94 - Antwort

Hi Denis, could you be a bit more specific as to which metal bracket you are referring to please? also, where did you put the piece of plastic? Thank you.

jamesmclachlan -

Denis, could you be more specific please? Which metal bracket causes the problem and where did you put the piece of plastic?

I have the same problem, (lost touch screen function).

jamesmclachlan -

Trying to get the screws into the holes and driving them in was extraordinarily challenging due in large part to their magnetic bond. Screws didn't want to leave the driver, once they were in they flew right back out as soon as the driver came within distance. To combat this, I suggest using a thin, clear tape (I used packing tape) cut into 4 strips and place each screw flat side down on one end of each strip of tape. Now you can easily maneuver and securely hold the screws into their holes as the driver pierces the tape easily screwing them in without losing them or your mind. Also, fridge magnets are good to retrieve screws that have fallen into iPhone's nooks and crannies, likewise from carpeting.

James Lee - Antwort

After aligning the bracket over the screw holes, I used the tweezers to pick the screw on its head and position it in the hole. Then, it was not difficult to use the screwdriver to fasten it.

Andre Silva -

If I messed up the screw placement, can it be redone and fixed by putting the screws back in prober order?

Colm Noone - Antwort

Like James Lee (above), I found reinserting the tiny screws quite difficult because the magnetic screwdriver would pull them out, with the screw adhering to the screwdriver at odd angles. What worked was to insert a screw with tweezers, then START the screw using the non-magnetic plastic pointy tool while holding down the plate so the screw could turn easily. Once the screw was started, I tightened it with the screwdriver.

Sandy Trevor - Antwort

Firstly do not just watch the video if you are going to do the battery replacement. I was too busy and stupid and only watched the video and boogered my Girlfiends 5S with the screw replacement boon doggle... You must read the iFix full instructions (forget the video) or you will screw it up!..

yaterbob - Antwort

The iFixit Kit I bought does NOT have the right screw driver to remove these screws. Neither phillips screwdrivers work - the point is much too sharp and does not grip the screw at all. Not happy with this purchase right now.

Richard - Antwort

Color coding the screw heads is an excellent idea. I used red for red - green for green - and black for orange - left the yellow one uncolored. Did a screen capture and labeled it to avoid confusion.

Leonard - Antwort

Also color a small area around the screws on the cable bracket. Makes it real easy to see which screw goes where.

Leonard -

I found out that you don’t need the 1.7mm screw. The shorter one will do and I don’t lose bluetooth.

patjmccarthy - Antwort

I used colored sharpies to keep track of the screws. I color coded the screw heads and around their holes. Worked like a charm.

Brigham Okano - Antwort

I managed to loose the socket of the green screw. Apparently, during my second disassembly of my iPhone the socket (which appears to be screwed in as well) came loose without me noticiing it and promptly vanished later on in the process, never to be seen again. The iPhone does seem to work without it, but still, I’d advise checking that they are still in place when you unmount the metal shield.

Sven Siggelkow - Antwort

Entferne die Abdeckung der Displaykabel vom Logic Board.
  • Entferne die Abdeckung der Displaykabel vom Logic Board.

At my iPhone 5s this part is missing!

Michael Schöttner - Antwort

Benutze das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um die Frontkamera und das Sensorkabel zu trennen. Benutze das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um die Frontkamera und das Sensorkabel zu trennen.
  • Benutze das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um die Frontkamera und das Sensorkabel zu trennen.

The flat end of the spudger works great to position and press down on the connectors during reassembly.

Magnus Dalen - Antwort

I did not try the spudger (but I think I should have), because this cable was the most difficult to me. It kept flipping (not aligning with the socket) and with one hand holding the screen and the other trying to connect was very difficult .

Andre Silva -

Während du die Display Einheit noch stützt, trenne die Kabelverbindung des Digitizers. Beim Wiederzusammenbau kann das Displaykabel sich vom Anschluss lösen. Dies kann beim Anschalten zu weißen Linien oder einem schwarzen Bildschirm führen. Wenn das passiert verbinde das Kabel einfach erneut und setze dein iPhone zurück. Der einfachste Weg, das zu tun, ist, den Akkuanschluss zu trennen und wieder zu verbinden.
  • Während du die Display Einheit noch stützt, trenne die Kabelverbindung des Digitizers.

  • Beim Wiederzusammenbau kann das Displaykabel sich vom Anschluss lösen. Dies kann beim Anschalten zu weißen Linien oder einem schwarzen Bildschirm führen. Wenn das passiert verbinde das Kabel einfach erneut und setze dein iPhone zurück. Der einfachste Weg, das zu tun, ist, den Akkuanschluss zu trennen und wieder zu verbinden.

When you reassemble the cables, you can align them with the sockets using the tip of your finger. A spudger or tweezers are way too clunky and is actually far more difficult. When the cable aligns with the socket, give it a firm push with your finger tip and you should be able to feel it click into place. This is actually a pretty tight mechanical fit and is fairly hard to dislodge.

Sheldon Carpenter - Antwort

After some 4 seconds stripes start to appear and at the bottom a black band of some 3 mm horizontally over the screen. I've restarted, but it keeps showing a clean screen and then after a while the stripes and band start coming through. Is that a battery issue? And when I slide up the light intensity button, the screen starts shivering.

Jules JUSTE - Antwort

And in my wife’s samsung replacing a battery is so easy. I’ve wasted a whole evening and now have broken cables. I get to buy a new screen and no phone for a couple of days. What $@$* is Apple pullig on us here? :(

Jules JUSTE - Antwort

Because Apple wants you to just buy a new phone instead of replacing parts.

Bryan Remely -

No doubt about that.

Bryan Thompson - Antwort

What can I do

i tried to remove the LCD CABLE WITH A METAL SCISSOR.

NOW IT IS NOT WORKING.

HOW TO REPLACE IT. CAN ANYONE HELP IN THAT

Faheem Sameer - Antwort

At the bottom and top are some hardly noticeable white stripes and an after reconnecting the cables 3 times with no difference I connected the old screen again. There were no stripes there… The cables on the new screen don’t look damaged. I’ve repaired other phone screens and I think my display has an issue… what should I do now?

fele felix - Antwort

Trenne schließlich die Kabelverbindung des LCDs. Trenne schließlich die Kabelverbindung des LCDs.
  • Trenne schließlich die Kabelverbindung des LCDs.

When re-assembling, this is the most difficult cable to re-align and re-connect. A second set of hands is helpful. If not available, be patient and line up the connector carefully. Once reconnected, use care not to 'open' the front cover beyond about 85° to prevent pulling this one back off... If you do, you will have to power-cycle the phone (disconnect the battery) to get things working properly again.

Pete H - Antwort

I agree that this was the most difficult step during reassembly. I was trying to use the various tools, but shredded up some of the foam padding on the back of the connectors. After struggling with this for ~20 minutes, I realized just pressing each connector down gently with the tip of my finger snapped each one into place rather easily, no tools necessary.

ilsedorec - Antwort

pure genius, this works

Oliver Markl -

Had to try 4 times until I finally got it right, I would say that less than 80° works well for this step, just take your time and be patient with the screws

hermosillaignacio - Antwort

It should be noted somewhere around these steps that all but one of these connections get removed.

The connection that is left goes to the Power Button, the Mute Switch, and the Volume Buttons. This connection is on the bottom left, below the LCD power connection.

This connector was not supposed to be removed, and I removed all of them as a force of habit.

Once removed, it seems I removed part of the other half of the connector along with the first half.

This has left my customer's iPhone functional, but none of the buttons, besides Home Button/TouchID), work.

In the long run, this is not a huge issue, as AssistiveTouch can emulate physical button presses. I just figured it should be noted.

Mikereilly2009 - Antwort

Using the tool from the opposite side from what is shown here was many times easier (considering I had the front panel attach to a box with the rubber band trick)

David - Antwort

Agree, did the same thing.

Andre Silva -

After completing the battery replacement, when I turned the phone back on everything worked right except, the rear facing camera. It just shows a black screen. Does anyone know how I can fix this???

Melissa - Antwort

After I replaced my battery, I turned the phone back on and everything worked except the rear facing camera. It just shows a black screen now. Does anyone know what I did wrong??? I do I fix this???

Melissa - Antwort

after battery replacing the Volume and Sleep buttons don’t work anymore. What I did wrong and what I can do to resolve the problem?

Thanks

Nicola - Antwort

Step one is recheck your connections. If those are all solid, did you need to pry the battery up to remove it? It’s possible that the prying damaged the cables. If you have photos, share them on our Answers Forum, and you might get some better, more specific help!

Sam Lionheart -

Entferne die Display Einheit vom hinteren Gehäuse.
  • Entferne die Display Einheit vom hinteren Gehäuse.

I replaced my old battery with the one I bought here in iFixit. I replaced the battery according to the instructions of this guide (Using a guitar string did the trick when removing the battery) and finally assembled the sensor ribbon. Turned on the phone and SURPRISE! Error, Touch ID Does Not Work. I was disappointed, in the most part because I was extremely careful, it's not my first repair, and I did not break the ribbon, the Home Button was working properly.

I spent 4 hours re-seating the ribbon and putting in place the metal bracket.

For you guys, who have lost Touch ID but didn't break the sensor flex cable AND the Home button works, I thing I have found a SOLUTION:

As you can see in the picture (link below), a grounding Tip under the screw MUST be in THIS POSITION. If misaligned it will not work. Mine was misaligned during the display disassembly (STEP 16) and this was the solution. A smile returned to my face.

IMG LINK:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1608...

Oscar Vera - Antwort

Odd..my Touch ID stopped working after I replaced the battery too and I did not harm the connector cable at all and the bracket was snug in position. Then randomly 2 days later it started working again with all my fingerprints remembered. Weird.

Bob smith -

Dear Oscar,

I am very interested in your comment but the photo is not available any more. Could you send the updated link?

Thank you very much,

Alex

Alex -

The link to your photo is still not available. I do not understand which screw is being referred to associated with the fingerprint sensor.

Toby Parnell -

To anybody wondering what the picture was, Internet Archive saved it. You can find it here: https://web.archive.org/web/201606120038...

It’s also the same picture as the 2nd picture in Step 23.

Bryan Remely -

Bryan Remely thank you so much. It’s comment threads like this and contributors like you that make the internet such a valuable tool.

WILL D -

why cant u disconnect the lcd and just put the new one in reverse from step 16? wgy to step 32

Cameron Shelley - Antwort

When you get the old screen off, check the frame edge where the digitizer rests. Mine was caked with gunk that had accumulated there from use. I gently used the tip of a spudger while holding the phone upside-down-ish and scraped out the gunk. Holding it upside-down kept the gunk from falling into the phone.

Sheldon Carpenter - Antwort

thanks for that... I didn't even notice it until I saw your comment.

Brian Hayes -

I’m completely confused about removing the connectors to the screen. It looks to me as though the battery could come out with the screen still attached. How am I wrong?

Lance - Antwort

Entferne die beiden Schrauben, mit denen die Klammer über den Komponenten festgemacht ist.
  • Entferne die beiden Schrauben, mit denen die Klammer über den Komponenten festgemacht ist.

    • 4,0 mm Kreuzschlitz Schraube (Phillips #000)

    • 2,3 mm Kreuzschlitz Schraube (Phillips #000)

  • Es ist zwingend erforderlich, dass die Schrauben in die jeweils passende Öffnung geschraubt werden. Andernfalls kann das LCD Display beim Zusammenbau stark beschädigt werden.

when reassembling, getting bracket back on can be tough. There is a tiny tab which is on the top left of the braket in the picture that can become easily bent. Make sure this is at 90 degrees to the bracket so that it can slide into a small hole to the left of the camera opening, which is used to secure the top left of the bracket to the phone.

copeconsultancy - Antwort

Richte das Gerät wie dargestellt aus, mit dem Home Button oben und dem Ohrhörer-Lautsprecher unten. Entferne vorsichtig den Clip nahe der linken unteren Ecke der Klammer des Ohrhörer-Lautsprechers aus seiner Vertiefung auf dem Display. Heble nicht mit übertriebener Kraft, da die Klammer der Ohrhörer-Lautsprecher zerbrechlich und verformbar ist.
  • Richte das Gerät wie dargestellt aus, mit dem Home Button oben und dem Ohrhörer-Lautsprecher unten.

  • Entferne vorsichtig den Clip nahe der linken unteren Ecke der Klammer des Ohrhörer-Lautsprechers aus seiner Vertiefung auf dem Display.

  • Heble nicht mit übertriebener Kraft, da die Klammer der Ohrhörer-Lautsprecher zerbrechlich und verformbar ist.

  • Bewege die Klammer mit einer Pinzette nach links, um sie zu lösen.

I have found that the shield over the speaker needs to be reassembled precisely if transferring to a new screen. There is very little clearance for the vibrating motor to whip around and if the shield is even a smidge shifted towards it, it will block it and not vibrate. Just something to check when done.

Matt Endress - Antwort

Wow, thanks for this comment, this saved my hide. I suspected that I was a bit offset after reattaching the shield and sure enough it was slightly hitting the vibrator. It took a while but I was able to get the shield all the way to the left by hooking the little metal clip on the left side of the shield under some plastic that its supposed to go under. (Recall that when you take off the shield you have to slide it out a bit to the right.) This shield and all the stuff under it is very difficult to get right when closing up the phone.

jonl -

So the ear speaker in the new screen/digitizer is not real and I have to put the original camera, sensor, etc in?

raveencarter - Antwort

Images are broken (not displayed). iFixit please fix the images.

Roman - Antwort

Entferne die Klammer vom Display.
  • Entferne die Klammer vom Display.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Entferne die Ohrhörer-Lautsprecher mit einer Pinzette. Wenn du deine Finger benutzt, sei vorsichtig, dass du nicht die goldenen Kontakte am Display berührst. Fingerfett kann einen guten Kontakt verhindern.
  • Entferne die Ohrhörer-Lautsprecher mit einer Pinzette.

  • Wenn du deine Finger benutzt, sei vorsichtig, dass du nicht die goldenen Kontakte am Display berührst. Fingerfett kann einen guten Kontakt verhindern.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Die Remontage des Ohrhörer-Lautsprechers ist am einfachsten, wenn er zusammen mit der Klammer montiert wird. Platziere die Klammer des Ohrhörer-Lautsprechers so, dass der Lautsprecher gut geschützt festsitzt. Schiebe den linken Haken der Klammer in die Kerbe links oben über der Frontkamera.
  • Die Remontage des Ohrhörer-Lautsprechers ist am einfachsten, wenn er zusammen mit der Klammer montiert wird.

    • Platziere die Klammer des Ohrhörer-Lautsprechers so, dass der Lautsprecher gut geschützt festsitzt.

    • Schiebe den linken Haken der Klammer in die Kerbe links oben über der Frontkamera.

    • Drehe die Klammer, sodass sie flach aufliegt und die beiden Schraubenlöcher durch die Klammer sichtbar sind. Drücke sie leicht fest und achte darauf, dass der Haken auf der rechten Seite auf dem Display einrastet.

Trad: Para substituir o alto-falante do fone de ouvido, é mais fácil instalar o alto-falante eo suporte juntos:

Coloque o suporte do alto-falante do fone de ouvido sobre o alto-falante para que fique ajustado em sua caixa.

Deslize o gancho esquerdo do suporte no entalhe acima do canto superior esquerdo da frente frente câmera.

Gire o suporte de modo que ele fica plano na caixa traseira, alinhando os dois furos de parafuso. Pressione o suporte no lugar, garantindo que o gancho do lado direito do suporte metálico fique travado no mostrador.

Maximiliano Fischer - Antwort

This step is skipped during disassembly.

dec59us - Antwort

Abschluss

Arbeite die Schritte in umgekehrter Reihenfolge ab, um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen.

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Unvaluable guides from iFixit A+++! I've done the job skipping steps 14 to 22 and phone works great now.

Peko Kent - Antwort

I cleaned my iPhone 5s camera front and back and now people can’t hear me when I make call not even on speaker. My voice memo is fine and I can record with same loudness. But if I send voice message on what’s app the other person can hear a very very very faint sound. Kindly help. A pictorial explaination would be great if possible.

Regards

Waseem - Antwort

I cleaned my iPhone 5s camera front and back and now people can’t hear me when I make call not even on speaker. My voice memo is fine and I can record with same loudness. But if I send voice message on what’s app the other person can hear a very very very faint sound. Kindly help. A pictorial explaination would be great if possible.

Regards

Waseem - Antwort

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