Einleitung

Verwende diese Anleitung, um ein zerkratztes oder beschädigtes Rückgehäuse in deinem iPhone 5s zu ersetzen.

Diese Anleitung erfordert den Ausbau des Akkus.. Die Klebestreifen, die den Akku befestigen, lassen sich nicht wiederverwenden – du brauchst also Ersatz-Klebestreifen. Alternativ kannst du den Akku mit doppelseitigem Klebeband befestigen.

Falls dein Displayglas gesprungen ist, halte die Bruchstelle zusammen und vermeide Verletzungen, indem du das Glas mit Tape versiehst. Lege sich überlagernde Streifen von durchsichtigem Paketband über das iPhone Display, bis die gesamte Frontseite bedeckt ist. Dies hält Glasscherben zusammen und erzeugt eine glattere Oberfläche für mehr Haftung. So lässt sich das Display besser vom Rückgehäuse lösen.
  • Falls dein Displayglas gesprungen ist, halte die Bruchstelle zusammen und vermeide Verletzungen, indem du das Glas mit Tape versiehst.

  • Lege sich überlagernde Streifen von durchsichtigem Paketband über das iPhone Display, bis die gesamte Frontseite bedeckt ist.

    • Dies hält Glasscherben zusammen und erzeugt eine glattere Oberfläche für mehr Haftung. So lässt sich das Display besser vom Rückgehäuse lösen.

  • Trage eine Schutzbrille, um deine Augen vor Splittern, die sich während des Reparaturvorgangs lösen können, zu schützen.

This was the most stressful thing I have ever done. I can't get the chips to pop in the top right corner, still coming up with white lines at top of screen even after re-powering the battery. Very poor experience, will let apple or a professional handle this rather than a how to. &&^& this.

steven krieger - Antwort

This is a Step 4 comment. I ordered the iSclack tool to help with my 5s battery replacement. After 30 minutes of trying to open the iPhone, I gave up and will try this later when I have a lot more time to spend on this. Before you ask, yes I did remove the two screws in Step 2. I must have a very tight fitting phone! Maybe next time I'll try a drop of oil on both suction cups to help with the adhesion. LOL, did not think I'd have trouble opening the case!

TerryChang - Antwort

An update. After months of living with my dead battery (iSclack would not work for me), I decided to use the provided suction cup, and surprise - it worked! LOL, so much for the iSclack tool! In any case, I followed the instructions and though it was a bit difficult (too small parts, too fat fingers, aging eyes), I was able to replace the battery. The battery removal was a bear, but with patience (and the use of an expired credit card as my lever), it did come out. Replacement of the adhesive strips was a puzzle - I eventually installed it "backwards" (removal hole in the tab on the left vs right) but this should not affect anything. Phone is charging now and preliminary testing of the home button/digitizer seem to be working. Once fully charged I'll do a full test on the phone to ensure I put things together correctly, but THANK YOU iFixIt for these instructions!

TerryChang -

I faced the same issue. My 5S wouldn't open with the iSclack. Had to use the suction cup instead. Even then, I wrestled with it for a whole 30 minutes.. Apparently my 5S is one sticky beast.

Daylen -

Firstly do not just watch the video if you are going to do the battery replacement. I was too busy and stupid and only watched the video and boogered my Girlfiends 5S with the screw replacement boon doggle... You must read the iFix full instructions (forget the video) or you will screw it up!.. It is not necessary to take the screen completely off. I did my 5 that was and assumed the 5S had a different protocol for a reason. It doesn't require removing the creen at all. I was careful on my 5 and had no problem. I took different prcautions and watched only the video and screwed up a perfectly good 5S... This means if your not backed up you just lost all your contacts and messages videos etc.... iFix is cool except their Video is not concise like the long instructions they provide. I was stupid and figured I new what i was doing after doing a couple other batteries and bingo I screwed it...

yaterbob - Antwort

Before embarking on this task, be sure you don't simply have built-up lint in the lightening port. I found that with a needle and some very CAREFUL workmanship removing lint/debris from the base of the port was what was ailing my machine.

mark40 - Antwort

Before embarking on this, remember to order some new replacement sticky adhesive strips, as these do not come with the replacement battery. I didn’t realise this until I had removed the battery. I just replaced it without and have crossed my fingers!

debsmcd6 - Antwort

As to my comment above, I had to order them and fit them to the battery as it was moving around inside!

debsmcd6 - Antwort

There is no need to over tape the screen; one strip is enough if wider to make a full cover. My screen was super fragmented and it worked beautifully with just one layer of tape.

Andre Silva - Antwort

Entlade den Akku deines iPhones auf unter 25%, bevor du weitermachst. Eine geladene Lithium-Ionen Batterie kann Feuer fangen und/oder explodieren, falls sie beschädigt wird.
  • Entlade den Akku deines iPhones auf unter 25%, bevor du weitermachst. Eine geladene Lithium-Ionen Batterie kann Feuer fangen und/oder explodieren, falls sie beschädigt wird.

  • Schalte dein iPhone aus, bevor du mit der Demontage beginnst.

  • Entferne die zwei 3,9 mm Pentalobe-Schrauben neben dem Lightning Connector.

I used a white terrycloth hand towel as my work surface and to position and retain all the screws and part in their relative positions, so I didn't mix things up. I also magnetized the screwdriver tips and that made it very easy to deal with these tiny, tiny screws.

Magnus Dalen - Antwort

For a secure working, put a small pot with lid on your workplace. When the battery starts burning, throw it in the pot, close it with the lid and get the pot safely out of the building, e.g. on the balcony or throw it out of the window. Do not try to extinct the battery with water, just let it burn out outside. This might take some hours.

Raymond Willems - Antwort

This is a really helpful one! My battery caught fire but luckily it was only one cell and not the entire battery. So it was done after a few seconds and I could go on with the replacement.

Matthias Blab -

Directions should say “use the P2 screwdriver head.”

William Kolb - Antwort

ifixit supplied a set of replacement philips screws (marked “Liberate!”). Thanks but I’m sticking with the pentalobe since they fit more securely than philips which have a chance of stripping if not held with the right amount of pressure.

Don Libes - Antwort

What are you supposed to do if the screws are stripped or won’t come out. No luck with the tweezers either.

ibrokeit - Antwort

Yep i‘ve had the same problem. One screw out, one that won‘t budge!!!

Stennett -

“cheater” reading glasses are a big help. Carolyn

Carolyn Green - Antwort

In this step, it is the P02 screwdriver from the kit (see that the nib has five sides , exactly for ‘pentalobe’ screws). All the other steps involving screws it was the Philips 000 (there was a third screwdriver Y 000 in the kit which I did not use). Did not have any problems at all removing and readding screws back through the process.

Andre Silva - Antwort

In den folgenden Schritten hebst du das Display vom restlichen Teil des Gehäuses ab. Das Display setzt sich zusammen aus dem Bildschirm und einem Plastikrahmen mit Metallklammern. Unabhängig vom verwendeten Werkzeug musst du darauf achten das ganze Display auf einmal abzuheben. Wenn sich der Bildschirm vom Rahmen löst, wie es im ersten Bild zu erkennen ist, schiebe ein Plastik Opening Tool zwischen den Plastikrahmen und den unteren Teil des Gehäuses, um die Metallklammern zu lösen.
  • In den folgenden Schritten hebst du das Display vom restlichen Teil des Gehäuses ab. Das Display setzt sich zusammen aus dem Bildschirm und einem Plastikrahmen mit Metallklammern.

  • Unabhängig vom verwendeten Werkzeug musst du darauf achten das ganze Display auf einmal abzuheben.

  • Wenn sich der Bildschirm vom Rahmen löst, wie es im ersten Bild zu erkennen ist, schiebe ein Plastik Opening Tool zwischen den Plastikrahmen und den unteren Teil des Gehäuses, um die Metallklammern zu lösen.

  • Wenn der Rahmen sich bei deinem Display abgelöst hat könnte es hilfreich sein, diesen vor dem Zusammenbau mit einem dünnen Streifen doppelseitigem Klebeband zu befestigen.

can this separation makes the screen stop working

bassam_shallak92 - Antwort

In my experience, dust particles have entered the screen, and partially ruins the wiewing experience, but this far the screen still works

Iver søbakk -

If the screen spilt and half is still stuck in the phone (clips broke and came out), how do I get the rest of the display panel up? It appears stuck, almost glued down.

Shara Nelson - Antwort

I was attempting to replace the battery on a phone that had been dropped once to create a dent in the top right corner, which pushed out the screen a tiny bit in that region, but not enough to break or render it non-functional. That all changed when I attempted to open my phone. I have a 5s and I had a friend’s broken SE that I was practicing on. I did not realize that either the construction of the screen is different, or that the dent in my phone would be that much of a problem. When I opened my phone, the top of the screen popped up almost immediately…. without the plastic bevel. It took a bit to get the bottom part open, but the plastic bevel in the top part was still stuck in the frame. I panicked and closed everything, but the screen was popped out from the frame even more and now when I turn on the phone, the screen has a green tint and won’t respond to touch :’(

Zhian Kamvar - Antwort

  • Die nächsten zwei Schritte zeigen, wie man den iSclack verwendet. Ein großartiges Werkzeug, um das iPhone sicher zu öffnen, das wir für jeden empfehlen, der mehr als eine Reparatur durchführen will. Wenn du den iSclack nicht verwendest, gehe weiter zu Schritt 6.

  • Schließe den Handgriff des iSclacks, wodurch sich die Saugnäpfehalter öffnen.

  • Platziere das Unterteil deines iPhone zwischen den Saugnäpfen gegen den Tiefenbegrenzer aus Kunststoff.

    • Der obere Saugnapf sollte sich gerade über dem Home Button befinden.

  • Öffne den Handgriff, um die Halter des iSclacks zu schließen. Platziere die Saugnäpfe mittig und drücke sie fest gegen die Ober- und Unterseite des iPhones.

DO NOT USE THIS METHOD. If the glue holding the glass to the screen assembly is weak, the force from the suction cup will pull the glass straight off. Instead, use a very thin flat metal tool to slide under the front face (carefully between the plastic edge strip and the metal case) and pry up. This is not only easier, but it is also a far safer method.

Izaac Post - Antwort

Thank you very much, however already used the suction cup and it came much easier than expected... Then snapped the home cable on my wife's phone... Now I have to replace that...

Thomas Hallberg -

This tool is worth its weight in gold to make opening the case without breaking things very easy. Highly recommend using it. I needed to use the little blue plastic pry bar tool on one side of the case to get the glass and frame to release from the back.

Magnus Dalen - Antwort

I used this tool on 2 successful screen replacements - BUT on the third time, the force did in fact separate the glass from the plastic, so I'd suggest inspecting first, and using with care.

Andrew - Antwort

This is the third repair using the iSclack it didn't have enough force to lift the face. I used the flat tool to help separate it. Thanks to those who warned against this tool due to pulling the glass face loose. I didn't think of that.

ldavis - Antwort

Umfasse dein iPhone mit festem Griff und schließe den Handgriff des iSclacks, um die Saugnäpfe auseinanderzubringen und dadurch die Display Einheit vom hinteren Gehäuse zu lösen. Der iSclack ist dazu entwickelt, dein iPhone sicher zu öffnen und zwar gerade soweit, um die Teile voneinander zu trennen, aber nicht weit genug, um das Home Button Kabel zu beschädigen.
  • Umfasse dein iPhone mit festem Griff und schließe den Handgriff des iSclacks, um die Saugnäpfe auseinanderzubringen und dadurch die Display Einheit vom hinteren Gehäuse zu lösen.

  • Der iSclack ist dazu entwickelt, dein iPhone sicher zu öffnen und zwar gerade soweit, um die Teile voneinander zu trennen, aber nicht weit genug, um das Home Button Kabel zu beschädigen.

  • Löse die beiden Saugnäpfe von deinem iPhone.

  • Überspringe die nächsten drei Schritte und fahre mit Schritt 9 fort.

Zip-tie is an excellent idea which I used in 1 repair(place zip-tie around home button area and hold in place while using the tool). Also using a single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

Bryan Solo - Antwort

The iSclack tool is a no brainer. I simply cleaned both areas were the suction cup secured to and pushed the ends of the iSclack together. Could not have been easier! The use of a zip tie did interest me, but I went the easiest way for no mistakes (iSclack). Be sure to hold the top of the phone securely, when open the bottom, which ever options you choose.

iScott - Antwort

This worked for me. Unfortunately I managed to pinch the fleshy bit of my index finger when closing shut the handles….ouch! So just be a bit careful!

debsmcd6 - Antwort

Wenn du keinen iSclack besitzt, benutze einen einzelnen Saugnapf, um die Display Einheit anzuheben:
  • Wenn du keinen iSclack besitzt, benutze einen einzelnen Saugnapf, um die Display Einheit anzuheben:

  • Presse einen Saugnapf auf das Display, direkt über dem Home Button.

  • Vergewissere dich, dass der Saugnapf vollständig auf dem Display aufliegt, um eine gute Haftung zu erzeugen.

My phone was too shattered to grip with my "Pump'itup" iFixit suction cup, and the method of adding packing tape over the display did not work either (still too lumpy). I ended up epoxying two 5" x 3/4" pieces of wood trim strips directly to the face of the phone, avoiding the Home switch and any seams, and positioning the wood to overhang the phone by ~2 inches. After 30 minutes of setting, I was able to lift up on the overhanging wood strips and pop the face of the phone out of the housing.

cpwittenberg - Antwort

Use a Stanley knife to push in between the back housing and the frame in the bottom left and corner and gently leaver up.

Much easier Than using suction cup but may slight scratch the frame or housing.

Craig Matthews -

I suspect that the age of the phone and accident that caused cracks make this method possible for some people. My mom's phone was only a month or so old and the suction cup only caused the screen to raise slightly. There was certainly no crack I could squeeze a spudger into. I just superglued the suction cup onto the screen in the end, which was very effective.

Caroline Russell -

Removed board. I ended up with a small shiny metal plate. Shown clearly in the above last posted photos just under the power button switch. Where does this goes?

Malcolm - Antwort

I was wondering the same thing. Did you ever figure out where this goes?

paul -

This has probably been replied to, but see step 31 :) Should be re installed with the pokey out bits pointing down.

daveoline -

Can someone please help me. I went through all of the steps and now my phone screen is all white and I can't see anything.

Lukeapple1414 - Antwort

First try a hard reset by holding down both the power button and the home button at the same time for at least 10 seconds. If that doesn't work, get back inside the phone and reseat the connectors. If the problem persists, either you received a bad part, or the part was damaged during installation.

iGuys -

My screen was too broken and the suction cup would not stick. I too a piece of Gorilla duct-tape and stuck it to itself and then also to the screen so that it made a "Tab" that I could pull up on. This worked much better than the suction cup.

Nathan - Antwort

@malcom @paul if you are referring to step 31 the plate needs to be placed as it comes out on the picture. Long flat part towards the top of the casing with the tab facing the right.

hari - Antwort

In my case, i found it easier to remove the sim - not sure if this was a placebo effect, but there you go!

also, there is a rubber seal around the screen - my experience is it should stay of the display, not on the main body.

Robert Colvin - Antwort

The amount of force I applied to open the case using the suction cup manually ended up tearing out the home button cable...ripping it in the process. Goodbye TouchID...see you next generation T_T

I would definitely recommend buying a stupid iSclack. I don't know why they'd even present the suction cup as an option. Maybe the 5S opens more easily when it's new. Now I need to decide between dropping more money on a new home button (and iSclack this time) or just hold out with the software home button.

johnsonjohnr - Antwort

Just lift slightly using the suction cup and on the bottom edge of the screen over to the left you'll see a slight gap open up just enough to get the spudger in. Don't use the suction cup to release the entire display assembly, just work around the edge with a spudger. This also helps clear some of the dirt build up.

daveoline -

I too tried the suction cup - worthless on cracked an only pulled off the many layers of packing tape applied as suggested. Used edge of utility knife to pry it up, then helper placed another blade underneath until I could pry it open. Great suggestion I read elsewhere, and only way I could get cover off.

I too skipped step 25. Definitely requires patience! Screen replacement was successful, but noticeable degradation in screen clarity/color from the original is somewhat disappointing. At half the price of OEM repair, would probably do it again though.

matttaylor - Antwort

If other people have this issue, I would try supergluing a screen protector over the old screen - leave a wide margin around the edges, home key, ear speaker. You could even just cut a piece of the protector into a square, or get a rectangle of shipping tape, the glued down portion needn't cover the whole screen. Then, glue the suction cup on top of the glued down screen protector or tape. I suggest this over the utility knife because it seems like the knife method would at the very least scratch up and nick the frame.

Caroline Russell -

i did this now i'm having a hard time putting the metal bracket back on :(

sineglabs - Antwort

1) Set suction cup off-center & pry up a corner instead of trying to yank open the whole thing. Wrap fingers around the entire phone while pulling so you don't inadvertently pull the display too far off.

2) Use a spudger, credit card, or guitar pick to pry it up once you have enough room to do so - don't pull any more than necessary.

3) There's a thin rubber edge around the entire display that might separate & stick to the bottom section. It should stay with the phone.

4) Reassembly: There are small plastic tabs on the top edge that you need to properly reseat in order to fully close the phone.

seijihuzz01 - Antwort

We got this to work. Some patience required, but absolutely doable. Our new iFixit suction cup did nothing, but a random one around the house worked fine. Just be patient and work it gently up, this use an opening tool or exacto blade to get into the seem once it comes up. Really quite doable. I'm glad I didn't spend 25 bucks on the fancy tool (a must for repeat use, I'm sure). But don't be deterred by the negatives above. Just go slow.

Chris Twomey - Antwort

I.did not read all the comments so I hope this isn’t redundant but my screen was too damaged to provide the air tonight seal that any suction device would need. The ifixit #3 flat head prayed the top out very easily. YMMV but I wouldn’t even try any other method before attempting to push the flat head down between the case and the glass. I thought it might bend the case out just a little causing a slight cosmetic damage but I have a rotective case that covers that anyway so who cares. Incidentally the case protected it from a lot of falls but not from gettin run over by my truck. A Prius once, but not the truck

Bill Pennock - Antwort

Oh and if you think this step is hard wait till you get to the screws on the home key or sliding the bracket back over the Touch ID cable connector. That is where the real problems are

Bill Pennock - Antwort

Single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

Bryan Solo - Antwort

I concur with Bryan’s post. The suction cup that was included with the toolkit that came with my battery wouldn’t hold to the screen when I pulled on it (the rubber was pretty soft, and the surface not smooth - not at all like the suction cup shown in the pictures of this guide). Fortunately I have a suction cup with a hook used typically for hanging things on the wall of a shower that held on quite tight that did the job - in fact, I had to use the point of the spudger to get under the edge of the suction cup to get it to release. I also used the zip tie trick someone else posted for making sure the screen didn’t open too far before disconnecting the home button cable, but it wasn’t necessary - I got the screen lifted with enough control that the cable was never in danger.

stuart40plus - Antwort

Suction cup supplied by ifixit worked for me. Of course I used all the tricks mentioned previously: Zip ties, work on one corner at a time, and work slowly - don’t expect it to pop out easily/quickly.

Don Libes - Antwort

Getting cocky after replacing a display screen and battery in a 6S i-Phone, I decided to open up my own -Phone SE and replace the old battery with a new one. I used one of the flip lever suction cup devices and it worked so well, that the display screen popped open so far that the Home Button Cable was torn off from the Home Button Assembly. I followed the instructions for re-assembly, but the damage was done. Lesson learned…read the Repair Guide before starting a repair!

Peter Bovey - Antwort

Suction cup for itself did not work for me. Then, I used a double face tape on it, and it worked nice (don’t try to remove the suction cup until you have fully unplugged the screen though). The suction cup should be used only to make a little gap for the other tools (spudger and that one which is blue). Sorry for the all caps, but ‘PULL THE SCREEN VERY SLOWLY’ (many people here commented there was a failure in this spet even being cautious).

Andre Silva - Antwort

Das Frontpanel ist mit Clips festgemacht und es gibt mehrere Flachbandkabel, die es mit dem übrigen Telefon verbinden. Dein Ziel hier ist, die Clips zu lösen und das Telefon gerade so weit zu öffnen, um die Kabel lösen zu können. Gehe langsam und behutsam vor, um Schäden zu vermeiden.
  • Das Frontpanel ist mit Clips festgemacht und es gibt mehrere Flachbandkabel, die es mit dem übrigen Telefon verbinden. Dein Ziel hier ist, die Clips zu lösen und das Telefon gerade so weit zu öffnen, um die Kabel lösen zu können. Gehe langsam und behutsam vor, um Schäden zu vermeiden.

  • Achte darauf, dass der Saugnapf knapp über dem Home Button fest auf der Display Einheit sitzt.

  • Während du das iPhone mit einer Hand unten hältst, ziehe an dem Saugnapf, um die Display Einheit auf der Home Button Seite etwas vom hinteren Gehäuse zu entfernen.

  • Heble mithilfe eines Plastik Opening Tools die Kanten des hinteren Gehäuses vorsichtig nach unten, weg von der Display Einheit, während du mit dem Saugnapf nach oben ziehst.

  • Nimm dir Zeit und übe einen konstant kräftigen Zug aus. Die Display Einheit ist bei diesen Geräten sehr fest eingepasst.

Seriously consider the isclack. I have a lot of experience working with much more valuable equipment than a phone, and I had read all the precautions... but I broke the cable anyways. The isclack is specifically designed to open the phone but only wide enough to get the clips out, while saving your home button cable.

llcoreyll - Antwort

Agreed. The suction cup method shouldn't be mentioned. I'm also extremely delicate with electronics and gently opening the display with a single suction cup is essentially impossible. The spudger needs to do all the work.

idmadj -

Agreed, I really wish I had paid extra to buy the isclack. Didn’t because I thought that I could be careful—that iFixIt provided just the suction and it would take a few days to get the extra tool. Take the time. Its not worth it.

Thought I was extremely careful—absolutely no movement or pull. Then pop. Pulled home button cord right out of its socket. Buying a new phone later today. The extra few days and additional cash would have totally been worth it.

Timothy Fry -

It may help to position the suction cup off-center and pull up one corner first.

Rosemary McNaughton - Antwort

Yes, I had problems initially (with the suction cup placed just above the home button) but placing it in the left corner did the trick.

Brian Riess -

Avoid spudgers, guitar picks, and other weird inventions, just use your fingernails. That way you can feel what's happening, and you won't accidentally slide them in and break something. They won't break the plastic rim thingy either, in contrast with spudgers. That's what fingernails evolved to do, so just use them.

Konrad Tlatlik - Antwort

Lol. Evolved fingernails to open phones.

Chal Miller -

Wrap a zip-tie loosely around the phone to avoid pulling the cover too far off and breaking the ribbon cable.

Thor Lancaster - Antwort

Thank you for the zip tie suggestion!

W Fleming -

Zip tie is a brilliant suggestion. Very robust and safe way to pull the phone apart--I had mine wrapped just above the home button and kept the case from opening beyond about 1/8 of an inch.

bartonh - Antwort

Used the suction cup and only my screen came up. Looks as though the screen delaminated from its black aluminum mounting tray. The home button stayed with the tray as well. Any ideas?

Kyle Rogers - Antwort

I got the battery and fitting kit from ifixit. the blue plastic levers that were included were not up to the job as the blade just bent when any pressure was applied. carefully using my own screwdrivers completed the task.

adrt - Antwort

We disagree with the naysayers. Patient use of the suction cup worked for us. The iFixit one didn't do it (it looked a bit deformed out of the box. But a random kids toy worked fine. Nothing fancy. Don't rush. Use an exacto as it starts to come up to slide in to the crevice. After that, works pretty well.

Chris Twomey - Antwort

The Jimmy tool worked for me. Managed to slide it in and twist slightly to pop the screen off without too much force.

leeprobert - Antwort

ifixit's sucktion cup and blue opening tool worked very well for me. I used the suction cup just enough to get the opening tool into a gap and gently pry out the clips. I'm glad that the display didn't give way too easily otherwise I might have damaged a cable. I wish I had read the zip tie comment first though.

Scott Watson - Antwort

ifixit's suction cup and blue opening tool worked well for me. Like the zip tie suggestion as a precaution.

Erik Osborn - Antwort

during reassembly, screen cracked worse than screen i was replacing!!

Valerie Egan - Antwort

Yup - I did the same thing… The top corner of the encasement was slightly bent from when I had dropped the phone and where the screen cracked originally. I didn’t notice it right away and when I went to “snap” the screen back down into place during reassembly, it wasn’t quite a perfect fit, and when I tried to press it into place, I cracked the new screen. Note to self - “check for small dents in the encasement and try to fix before trying to tighten down the screen”. The new cracked screen is still better than the one that I was replacing. I feel so dumb. Chalk it up to a rookie mistake I guess. Hopefully this little write up saves someone else from making the same mistake.

Christopher Flynn -

I also broke the screen (after replacing the battery). When closing up the screen, insert the top of the screen first, then lay the phone face down on a flat surface and apply pressure from the back of the phone. It worked for me…

stopsurfing - Antwort

This is a great idea! Works for me too!

JC Alice -

This comment definitely should be in the guide!! It is an awesome hint.

Andre Silva -

Zip-tie is an excellent idea which I used in 1 repair. Also using a single suction cup will work as well but needs to be placed to the left above the home button(depending on size of cup). Also there is a indentation on the bottom left of the screen assembly that will allow you to insert a jimmy tool or something similar once you lift the screen some from the frame. Once inserted take your time to release the screen across the bottom and sides but remember not to insert to far at the bottom or you may damage the home button cable.

Bryan Solo - Antwort

Use some tape to limit how far the screen will open. I used wide packing tape, stuck it to the bottom of the display, where the home button is, and to the opposite side, on the back. It left a loop of tape, front to back, around the bottom of the phone, that had about an inch of slack. This allowed the display to pop off completely without any danger to the home button cable. No prying required.

Michal Pawlowski - Antwort

YES! I was just about to suggest this as I tore the home cable even though I was really careful opening it.

Arthur Shi -

What worked extremely easy for me was I used a utility knife to score on the joint below the home button. The blade went in easy then lightly pried the screen up then followed up the rest of the way with the ifixit opening tool. I’m sure the ifixit Jimmy tool would work as well, instead of the utility knife.

Scott Nacke - Antwort

I wish I’d looked at the comments here before I tore the home button cable. I was trying to be careful and not to rip it but it just got away from me. Now I’ve ordered the replacement part…

Graham Agnew - Antwort

The glass of my screen went off at first and there was also a black plastic frame that I managed to peel off as well.

At first I didn’t notice that the metal bracket didn’t come off. It was a bit of a struggle to lift the metal bracket.

Wolfgang Bauer - Antwort

Wish I’d read through these first.

Used the suction cup but went too far when the display finally popped loose pulling the home button cable off the main board. Hope it was only the cable that was damaged - will try a replacement home button.

Limiting the display’s travel with tape or a zip tie is an excellent idea !!!

Leonard - Antwort

I used the suction cup, but used a long screwdriver through the pull-ring help up with books either side piled to just lift the phone of the worksurface when I started to apple downward force on the phone. Meant that I could be more confident applying force as, if it did go suddenly, the phone would only travel the distance down to the surface. Had to add a few books as I hadn’t allowed for them compressing as I applied force.

Peter Whitworth - Antwort

We used the little suction cup the Ifixit supplies in the repair kit, NOT the iSclack. It took many attempts, patience, and two people working together, but ultimately we succeeded. Here are a few tips: soak the suction cup in very hot (just boiled) water for 5-10 minutes to get it really warm and pliable. As one person holds the phone and pulls up on the suction cup, the other should work the blue opening tool at the first sign of the display assembly starting to lift from the phone. Many times the suction cup would pop off but we kept heating the cup, resticking, and working it until we finally opened it. We used the cable tie suggestion above as well to be sure the phone would not open too far and this saved us when it finally popped free. Remember to work the clips on the side as well once you have a gap. Honestly, this took the most patience of all 62 steps! (Yes, there are 62 steps…only 54 more to go!)

James M. Day - Antwort

Versuche nicht, die Display Einheit vollständig vom hinteren Gehäuse zu lösen, da beide immer noch durch mehrere Flachbandkabel verbunden sind. Ziehe an an der Kunststoffnoppe, um das Vakuum des Saugnapfes zu öffnen.
  • Versuche nicht, die Display Einheit vollständig vom hinteren Gehäuse zu lösen, da beide immer noch durch mehrere Flachbandkabel verbunden sind.

  • Ziehe an an der Kunststoffnoppe, um das Vakuum des Saugnapfes zu öffnen.

  • Entferne den Saugnapf von der Display Einheit.

Cracked my screen using the supplied suction cup. Had to apply clear packing tape to screen to very patiently finish the job. However, now I need a new screen. How nice :-(

Scott Stathis - Antwort

I added a double face tape in the suction cup to make it work, and then, I did not try to remove it until I had unplugged the screen. It was inconvenient not being able to work with the screen in a horizontal position when removing the ‘home button’ but it wasn’t also the end of the world.

Andre Silva - Antwort

Öffne das Telefon weit genug, um die Metallklammer, die das Home Button Kabel bedeckt, offenzulegen. Öffne das Telefon nicht zu weit oder du riskierst eine Beschädigung des Home Button Kabels oder seines Anschlusses auf dem Logic Board. Das Kabel sollte locker sein – wenn es straff gespannt ist, ist es zuviel. Nur die Original Home Button Einheit ermöglicht die Nutzung der Touch ID Funktion. Falls das Kabel beschädigt wurde, stellt die Installation einer neuen Home Button Einheit nur die normalen Funktionen wieder her, nicht aber die Touch ID Funktion.
  • Öffne das Telefon weit genug, um die Metallklammer, die das Home Button Kabel bedeckt, offenzulegen.

  • Öffne das Telefon nicht zu weit oder du riskierst eine Beschädigung des Home Button Kabels oder seines Anschlusses auf dem Logic Board. Das Kabel sollte locker sein – wenn es straff gespannt ist, ist es zuviel.

    • Nur die Original Home Button Einheit ermöglicht die Nutzung der Touch ID Funktion. Falls das Kabel beschädigt wurde, stellt die Installation einer neuen Home Button Einheit nur die normalen Funktionen wieder her, nicht aber die Touch ID Funktion.

  • Benutze die Spitze eines Spudgers, um die Klammer freizulegen und sie mit einer Pinzette zu entfernen.

  • Die nächsten beiden Schritte beziehen sich auf den Zusammenbau. Überspringe sie und fahre bei Schritt 12 fort.

I had put some what more pressure to suck and sensor cable got detached from upper part(display) , now what shall i do , how to fix it ?

Nikunj - Antwort

Is the touch ID bracket really important or have any use ? I forgot to put it back… Is it going to malfunction ?

John Doe - Antwort

mine did not appear to have a bracket.. I am wondering too if this is going to mess with it?

Donna Godfrey -

It's there to keep it firmly in place.

Didier Daniel -

My bracket popped out when I opened the screen too far, so if you can’t see the bracket, look around inside your phone. it might be hiding out.

lucy -

Mine also doesn't seem to have a bracket. Plus the cable unclipped itself when the screen shot free - yikes. Looks OK though. I guess I'll find out soon enough.

Gabe - Antwort

I wrapped a velcro tie loosely around the phone so it wouldn't open up too far. (or could use a zip tie) Then while holding the screen down with one hand, I pulled the suction cup up with the other hand, using gradual pressure. while using a "wiggeling" upward pressure, I concentrated on raising the left side of the screen, which gradually started to loosen up. then I concentrated on the lower left corner until I had enough of a gap to work in the the flat surface of the plastic tool. I then pried on this corner. The screen then popped up without stressing the home button cable.

Harry

Harry Jones - Antwort

Genius. Pure genius.

Aiden Baker -

I found that when replacing the plate/cover, a pair of needle nosed tweezers held the plate by the 2 holes rather than by the edges (it jumped out repeatedly). I have taken a picture but need to upload it if its required? I also found that taking the new battery out of it's wrapper once out the box has to be done very carefully as the ribbon cable caught on the wrapper so be warned...

andy - Antwort

DITCH THE BRACKET! It's unnecessary, as the cable will never come loose under ordinary use. The bracket is also a danger in that if you open the case too far, the TouchID cable could break; without the bracket the cable will detach. Finally, reattaching that bracket is a nightmare. My wife, who drops her phone a lot and requires several new screens a year, has never had her bracket-free cable come lose.

Max Powers - Antwort

You say you have to use the original home button. But what is the button "bound" to? The motherboard?

Iver søbakk - Antwort

Yep. Bound to the phone CPU.

Michael Walker -

When I lifted my screen during this step, the metal LCD shield plate did not come out with the screen. Very confusing. I needed to carefully pry around the shield plate's side notches, just inside the walls of the iPhone's back, in order to lift it out. Required a trifle bit more force than I anticipated.

Zac Imboden - Antwort

I’m already limited to using a touch screen home button. (physical home button stopped responding but fingerprint works) Would this take away that functionality of my on screen home button? does this affect the fingerprint security feature?

Kris704 - Antwort

I used the 5S battery kit that iFixit shipped me and attached the suction cup to the screen and gently started pulling to lift the screen. It lifted revealing a very slight crack and I used the spudger tool with the suction cup still lifting away gently and it opened more. At no point did I see any home button cable???

When the screen came off more I continued to follow all the other instructions and have got to step 23 … I see no battery adhesive tab???

Just loads of black electrical tape blending in with the battery seal. So now I have no clue how to complete taking the battery out?

Completely bummed at this point….

Alun Williams - Antwort

Sounds like you’ve got an iPhone 5. This guide is for the 5s. ;)

Jeff Suovanen -

Be forewarned: make sure you really really want that new battery or display replacement, because you are VERY likely to lose your Touch ID feature on your phone after taking this step. It is extremely sensitive. The front of the bracket is the point of tension that holds it in place. In my case, as I carefully used the spudger to release the bracket, the released tension shot the bracket out of the phone and the Touch ID cable popped out of its socket with it. This gave me a start but I inspected both parts and they appeared to be fine. I finished the battery replacement, and put the cable back in place only to discover: no Touch ID. Even after I re-opened the phone two more times and finally figured out how to properly reseat the bracket, Touch ID was gone. Judging by this experience the Touch ID cable/pins must be insanely sensitive – perhaps one pin was dislodged by a fraction of a millimeter? I can’t say for sure. But sadly after repeated and careful attempts to reseat it, my Touch ID is lost for good. :(

N B - Antwort

Same here. I thought I was being very careful but ended up damaging something even though everything looked fine. No more TouchID for this old iPhone 5S…

Michael Walker -

There’s an easy solution to this step: use hemostats (miniature vice grip). Took me about 10 seconds (after over an hour using various other tools).

Robert Smith - Antwort

Attention in this part!! I had to put more pressure than I should, then the bracket flew away and the cable also unplugged all together (probably placed the spudger beneath the cable instead of only beneath the bracket). I was lucky nothing bad happened, but I lost total control in this step (it was my only mistake).

Andre Silva - Antwort

Tape the screen to the case on the sides with some slack to keep the screen from opening too far.

Nace - Antwort

Während dem Wiederzusammenbau musst du die Abdeckung des Touch ID Kabels wieder anbringen. Die obere Kante muss zwischen dem Akku und dem Anschluss des Touch ID Kabels liegen, die untere über den Anschluss ragen und davor einrasten. Schiebe die Oberseite von links nach rechts über den Anschluss des Touch ID Kabels.
  • Während dem Wiederzusammenbau musst du die Abdeckung des Touch ID Kabels wieder anbringen. Die obere Kante muss zwischen dem Akku und dem Anschluss des Touch ID Kabels liegen, die untere über den Anschluss ragen und davor einrasten.

  • Schiebe die Oberseite von links nach rechts über den Anschluss des Touch ID Kabels.

This is the hardest part lol

Bob smith - Antwort

I concur! I think I need thinner tweezers.

FierDancr -

1) Reassembly: Note the orientation, 2 clips toward the battery, 1 clip toward the bottom of the phone. Mine didn't "latch down" or stay in place - it just sort of sat there.

2) Note that the rest of the bracket this attaches to must be removed from the Lightning Connector assembly & reattached to the new one.

3) I combined this repair w/replacing the battery, and smashed the bottom of the bracket under the battery/adhesive strips. Careful not to do that, so that you can actually complete this step.

seijihuzz01 - Antwort

Comment above was made on the Lightning Connector replacement guide - I guess it got pulled over here since as well since the steps are identical ... Anyway careful not to smash the bottom bracket w/the replacement battery or adhesive

seijihuzz01 - Antwort

That was fun without tweezers :)

Oscar - Antwort

Even with tweezers (the eyebrow kind) it was still an exercise in extreme calming techniques. I nearly gave up, but after 20 minutes I finally got it to seat and clamp.

natzulf -

It is fiddly and access is tight as all the connectors are in place. However, if you approach at the correct angle so that you are looking to latch the connector next to the battery first... Once this is in place and secure then gently push down the front of the bracket over the cable.

copeconsultancy - Antwort

I think it's the pics and the word 'slide' that throws people off. I tried this around 20 times to 'slide' it on from the left side, and was getting frustrated. My friend came over, laid the cover on the top, and just snapped it down into place. Still the guide had this down for me in 30 minutes even with the 'hardest part' haha and the part from ifixit worked and looked perfect.

Brent Hillyer - Antwort

After reading the comments I was not looking forward to this step on re-assembly. I agree that the pictures and the instruction to “slide” the bracket into place may be worrisome. But I was able to orient the bracket directly over where it was supposed to go. Then inserted the 2 clips (top) in first and easily and gently snapped the bottom clip into place. Probably spent less than a minute on this part.

Jere -

After about 20 minutes I wonder if I could just snap it in place. I did it in about 15 seconds.

The “slide part and accompanying images are really misleading.

jpfranc -

It took me 10 minutes to accomplish this step; 9’:55’’ I spent reading the comments and 0:05’’ plugging the bracket the way you describe. This step step should be edited in this guide. It is definitely misleading people.

Andre Silva -

DITCH THE BRACKET! It's unnecessary, as the cable will never come loose under ordinary use. The bracket is also a danger in that if you open the case too far, the TouchID cable could break; without the bracket the cable will detach. Finally, reattaching that bracket is a nightmare. My wife, who drops her phone a lot and requires several new screens a year, has never had her bracket-free cable come lose.

Max Powers - Antwort

Not everyone should ditch the bracket just because you did. The bracket is there to keep everything firmly in place.

Didier Daniel -

I did finally leave it off. I’m sure if I worked for Foxconn I could snap those on in seconds flat. After 30minutes of trying I figured it would either work or I’d have to spring fo a new phone. It just wasn’t gonna happen for me. Right now it’s working so it’s all about reliability now

Bill Pennock -

I'm not so patient, so I finally gave up and ditched the bracket. No problem so far. Anyway, ditch it at your own risk!

Daniel del Saz -

On an old 5S, the metal retainer bracket snapped in easily. There was no sliding, the rear edge dropped in straight, it hinged down, and locked almost before I knew it. The lack of a click or any positive feel on this critical connector surprised me a lot. I had to eyeball it with a magnifier to feel sure the ribbon connector was really in its socket. Works perfectly after the replacement, though.

Jeff Clayton - Antwort

All this time I was trying to put the bracket right next to the battery but that's not right. There's no way the bumps on the metal connector can fit in the slots on the bracket. It's battery, metal connector and then the bracket. So easy. Next time I dismantle an iPhone 5S I won't be dreading this step.

Kim Mace - Antwort

I should NOT have had that cup of coffee before I attempted this!

Cory Powell - Antwort

This was definitely the fiddliest bit of the whole reassembly.

After trying the slide in and then press method many times without success I ended up feeding it in directly with the tweezers, carefully angling it back up into position, then clipping it down. But the whole thing took at least 5 minutes. And my shaky hands didn’t help matters!

Toby Moncaster - Antwort

I was sweting gallons during this step!

Timothy Owens - Antwort

The replacement of the bracket was tricky. The bracket has to be put in under the two tiny tabs in the back (next to the battery) and then pushing down in the front. I knew I had it when I heard a little click from the one tab in the front seating.

Ron Wagner - Antwort

HI Ron, you are almost right. Or at least I did clip in the front part first and then just push the back while the back side was in between the home button connector and that two pins (the bracket on the “board”). As you said it just click in and you could hear. That was after I tried put the back first and then clip the front for 15 min.

Martin Chudomel -

This step needs to be explained better! The metal bracket needs to be slid in front of the metal connector near the battery and then clicked down. I've been stuck on this step as I kept trying to slide it between the metal connector and battery!!

Whitney Hourigan - Antwort

Updated the text a bit, while correct, it didn’t mention the metal tab in relation to the battery and cable connector. Hope this helps the next person!

Sam Lionheart -

And for this step felt like a life long career of tiddly winks had commenced

Jake Baxter - Antwort

It is confusing in reassembly, that the steps 10 and 11 are in the ascending order, because we follow the guide backwards (I suggest explaining the correct sequence: …, 12, 10, 11, and ??. ?? —> This is another point of confusion, the next step is to fit the screen back in, but because there are many (alternative) steps to open the phone, all the useful comments about closing it are spread among topics 3 to 9. There should have been a box (step) exclusively to the part of fitting the screen , so the explanation is more clear and comments are put all together. There are extremely useful comments here that should be edited in the guide (to make it even better).

Andre Silva - Antwort

Drücke die Vorderseite der Touch ID Abdeckung  mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers nach unten über den Anschluss. Wenn sich die Abdeckung nicht bündig abschließen lässt, musst du sie vielleicht entfernen und erneut über den Anschluss schieben.
  • Drücke die Vorderseite der Touch ID Abdeckung mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers nach unten über den Anschluss.

  • Wenn sich die Abdeckung nicht bündig abschließen lässt, musst du sie vielleicht entfernen und erneut über den Anschluss schieben.

It seems like a couple of these steps are reassembly steps? I wish they would label them as such. This step and step 10 are for reassembly, and it's confusing.

Sheldon Carpenter - Antwort

See the information line on Step 9 that says this exact thing?

Elliot Fleming - Antwort

Benutze die Spitze eines Spudgers, um die Home Button Kabelverbindung nach oben aus ihrem Anschluss zu hebeln. Vergewissere dich, dass du die Kabelverbindung von ihrem Anschluss trennst und nicht den ganzen Anschluss nach oben hebelst. Der Anschluss befindet sich auf seinem eigenen festverklebten Kabel, das nach oben gehebelt werden kann, wenn du nicht aufpasst.
  • Benutze die Spitze eines Spudgers, um die Home Button Kabelverbindung nach oben aus ihrem Anschluss zu hebeln.

  • Vergewissere dich, dass du die Kabelverbindung von ihrem Anschluss trennst und nicht den ganzen Anschluss nach oben hebelst. Der Anschluss befindet sich auf seinem eigenen festverklebten Kabel, das nach oben gehebelt werden kann, wenn du nicht aufpasst.

Upon reassembly, I found this easier once I was looking at the connection from the bottom of the phone, as pictured. I had been trying to line up the connector from the side. Once I put on magnifying glasses and had really good light, I lined it up and slipped my finger in for the click.

Oh, in a moment of relief after getting the cable connected, I quickly closed up the phone, forgetting to put the metal bracket covering the home button cable back on. I had to re-open the case. Don't be like me!

Keystone - Antwort

Reassembly:

The original part bends the bottom home button connector back on itself into a bracket you have to remove (not mentioned in later steps).

That bracket has a bit of adhesive to keep the bottom connector in place.

The replacement part does not come with a bracket, or additional adhesive, so the bottom connector flops around & can make reassembly a challenge. I found it was best to hold right edge of the bottom in place w/1 finger, and use a 2nd finger to slide the upper cable connector left to right and click it into place.

seijihuzz01 - Antwort

Also worth mentioning is that upon reassembly, make sure that the home button cable folds to the left (away from the side with the SIM card) as the front panel will not fit properly otherwise.

Brian Riess - Antwort

这个地方必须小心,我上次就把底部接口搞坏了,害我换个电池的同时还换了一个尾插

Zhou Lin - Antwort

Sobald der Stecker gelöst wurde, ziehe die Einheit am Ende mit dem Home Button weg vom hinteren Gehäuse, indem du das obere Teil des Telefons als Drehgelenk benutzt. Öffne das Display bis zu einem 90°-Winkel und lehne es gegen einen festen Gegenstand, um es beim Arbeiten in dieser Position zu halten. Ein Gummiband könnte hilfreich sein, um es in dieser Position zu halten und sicherzustellen, dass die Displaykabel nicht beschädigt werden.
  • Sobald der Stecker gelöst wurde, ziehe die Einheit am Ende mit dem Home Button weg vom hinteren Gehäuse, indem du das obere Teil des Telefons als Drehgelenk benutzt.

  • Öffne das Display bis zu einem 90°-Winkel und lehne es gegen einen festen Gegenstand, um es beim Arbeiten in dieser Position zu halten.

  • Ein Gummiband könnte hilfreich sein, um es in dieser Position zu halten und sicherzustellen, dass die Displaykabel nicht beschädigt werden.

  • Als Trick kannst du eine ungeöffnete Getränkedose als Halterung verwenden.

maak een constructie waar de iPhone in valt en waarbij het scherm in een hoek van 90 graden kan worden gefixeerd, dan hoef je drie kabeltjes niet los te maken. Is mij heel goed gelukt .

Joop Roos - Antwort

Out of curiosity I decided to use google translate…here it is in English. “make a construction where the iPhone falls and the screen can be fixed at a 90 degree angle, you do not have to unlock three cables. I did very well.”

Kelly Ann - Antwort

Entferne die beiden 1,6 mm Kreuzschlitz #000 Schrauben, die die Metallabdeckung über dem Akkuanschluss auf dem Logic Board befestigen.
  • Entferne die beiden 1,6 mm Kreuzschlitz #000 Schrauben, die die Metallabdeckung über dem Akkuanschluss auf dem Logic Board befestigen.

I don't see why steps 14, 15, and 16 are even necessary. I was able to remove the scene without removing the battery (skipping these 3 steps)

Luke Lin - Antwort

See Jonathan Goldsmith's comment ;)

Didier Daniel -

Working on the phone without removing the battery will most likely damage the component. My OnePlus One runs extremely slow after working on it without removing the battery. I think it's a problem with the GPU, because the display was very slow to update the screen contents.

Peter Pan - Antwort

Pan is right. Not removing the battery means you will run the risk of shorting some circuits not meant to be connected, and thus can damage those components. This can happen very easily, and without you even knowing it. Additionally, the internal components of a digital device are not meant to be disconnected while having any amount of power applied(and even though your device may not even turn on because the battery is completely shot, there very likely will still be a small amount of power coming from the battery to the internal components of the device). Doing so will likely cause an overcurrent condition that will damage the components of the device.

Jonathan Goldsmith - Antwort

Now my problem, however, is that the screws on this bracket do not seem to want to unscrew. :(

Jonathan Goldsmith - Antwort

Okay, the problem would seem to have been with the screwdriver that came with my iFixit battery "Fix kit". Tried another screwdriver, and no problems at all.

Jonathan Goldsmith - Antwort

Phillips #000 provided with the iFixit repair kit does not fit the screws

Vitaly Kirichenko - Antwort

I agree the #000 Phillips driver didn't work. I happened to already have a #0 Phillips that did work much better.

Bruce Peffley -

Same problem here

Mikkel Albrechtsen -

The screwdriver that came with the kit worked fine for me when I applied pressure with my palm to the end of the driver and turned the driver with my forefinger and thumb

Tom Gleason - Antwort

The ifixit #000 works…if you put an uncomfortable amount of pressure on the driver. Yikes. Use a larger bit if you’ve got it.

Chris Wiley - Antwort

i damaged the bottom screw with the phillips00 ifixit screwdriver :-(

Pierre - Antwort

Entferne die Metallabdeckung aus deinem iPhone.
  • Entferne die Metallabdeckung aus deinem iPhone.

Not clear to me why this and the next step are necessary for a screen replacement...

Daniel Goldschmidt - Antwort

Using the iFixit tweezers to remove the bracket caused a spark. I used the plastic spudger instead.

Bryan Remely - Antwort

Is this tutorial or the iPhone SE? The battery should be 1624mAh but these pictures go back and forth between showing 1510and 1560mAh. Why are pictures showing different batteries, and why isn't it showig the 1624mAh for the 5 SE?

Someone Somewhere - Antwort

After installing the New iPhone 5s Lightning Connector Replacement I noticed there was no foam on top of the new plug, leaving bare metal exposed. I cut a small piece of electricians tape to be placed on top of the new plug to keep it from coming in contact with the metal battery connector bracket

Scott Nacke - Antwort

Heble den Akkustecker mit einem Spudger vorsichtig von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board. Heble vorsichtig nur an dem Akkustecker und nicht am Anschluss auf dem Logic Board. Wenn du an der Logic Board Buchse hebelst, kannst du den Anschluss irreparabel beschädigen.
  • Heble den Akkustecker mit einem Spudger vorsichtig von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.

  • Heble vorsichtig nur an dem Akkustecker und nicht am Anschluss auf dem Logic Board. Wenn du an der Logic Board Buchse hebelst, kannst du den Anschluss irreparabel beschädigen.

pourquoi faire?

Alexis Camper - Antwort

Skip steps17-22. Just be extra careful and secure the screen. Less to go wrong the less you open.

William Stein - Antwort

Also order the headband magnifier. It really helps with the tiny components you are working with.

William Stein - Antwort

A way to skip step 17-22

I unfolded as next step the display in a perpendicular way (so display unit and rest of the device in 90°) and fixed the display with an elastic band at an opened iPhone packaging box. Then I continued directly at step 23 with the removal of the battery without removing the display unit at all. Worked very well without any problems… and now I’m curious whether the new battery really powers the device for a longer time :-)

Rolf Enderes - Antwort

I also skipped the step of removing the dispaly, instead using a rubber band to secure the display to the iPhone box. Worked great, and avoided the hassle of disconnecting the display.

Daniel Melchior - Antwort

I skipped this step and I also removed my display. I don’t know what will happen in the future but there’s no problems till now...

Ran Mika (Tshukimi Elune) - Antwort

I didn’t realize that each of the photos contained different steps until later on, (the photos look very similar to each other in the thumbnails), and so I don’t think I removed the 2nd part of the battery attachment as its in the 2nd photo. I figured it out later, but only after step 20, which requires that the battery is fully disconnected before doing. Oops!

Everything else went well though, and I’ve since reinstalled the battery, drained it, and recharged, and it seems to be fine. Will cross my fingers and hope I didn’t damage anything.

Nancy Zan - Antwort

If you do remove the display, it is helpful before removing the four diffferently sized screws to tape down a piece of masking tape, sticky side up, and remove them in a defined order, sticking them to the tape as you go. Then there’s no chance of mixing them up when you re-assemble.

john lawn - Antwort

Entferne die folgenden Schrauben, die die Abdeckung der Displaykabel am Logic Board befestigen:
  • Entferne die folgenden Schrauben, die die Abdeckung der Displaykabel am Logic Board befestigen:

    • Eine 1,7 mm Kreuzschlitz #000 Schraube

    • Eine 1,2 mm Kreuzschlitz #000 Schraube

    • Eine 1,3 mm Kreuzschlitz #000 Schraube

    • Noch eine 1,7 mm Kreuzschlitz #000 Schraube

      • Diese 1,7 mm Schraube wird in der Regel nicht von einem magnetisierten Schraubenzieher angezogen. Passe auf, dass du sie beim Entfernen nicht verlierst.

    • Es ist besonders wichtig, beim Wiederzusammenbau die Reihenfolge der Schrauben zu beachten. Beim versehentlichen Verwenden der 1,3 mm Schraube oder der 1,7 mm Schrauben im rechten unteren Loch wird ein beträchtlicher Schaden am Logic Board verursacht, der dazu führt, dass das Telefon nicht länger einwandfrei bootet.

    • Achte darauf, die Schrauben nicht zu fest zu ziehen. Wenn diese sich nicht einfach rein drehen lassen haben sie vielleicht die falsche Größe.

Two screws at the bottom should be the most short, two screws on top are the longest, you got it wrong.Please official verification again, and reply to me. Thank you!

CLAUDE - Antwort

Hi Claude,

Unfortunately I forgot to check at dis-assembly which screw goes back where at step 11 so I ended up following the instructions although, I would find it logical that the longer screws are for the top and the shorter ones for the bottom holes, which is what you mentioned also . I anyway ended up following the instructions and all went well except that I am now unable to hear anything while in a phone call connected to the Bluetooth in my car. The phone connects, I have the battery and network status on the screen of my car, I can receive SMS on the car's screen, I can stream music to the speakers but I cannot hear anything while in a call. I can hear the call ringing in the car speakers, I can answer it but after that it's silent.

So, I was wondering:

1. Did you hear back on your comment from iFixit?

2. Did you install the screws back the way you mentioned in your comment? Did it work?

3. Did you check / note down the position of the screws at dis-assembly?

Thanks in advance.

Regards,

Cornel.

corneliumusat -

Can anyone answer if the blue strips on the crews indicate which screws they are? They are all so small it's hard to find the right lengths for each hole

Ariel Drotter -

Does anyone know if the blue strips on the screws indicate their length? I'm finding it very hard to distinguish the lengths

Ariel Drotter -

@Ariel - The blue that you are seeing on the screws is simply leftover loctite compound that is used to prevent the screws from working their way loose during every day use and does not give any indication as to the length of the screw. You should notice that, generally, you have two lengths of screws out of the 4 that came out...2 with longer threads and two with shorter threads. The two with shorter threads need to go in the bottom two holes...these two screws are not exactly the same length (difference of 0.1 mm), but mixing them up should not cause any harm to the phone due to such a small difference. With the two longer ones that are leftover, only one of them will be magnetically attracted to your screwdriver...this is the one that goes in the top left hole. The one that does not easily attract to your screwdriver goes in the top right.

iGuys -

Hi Everyone,

Claude is right, after re-arranging the screws so that the top two are the longest, bottom-right shortest and bottom left is the second-shortest the in-call audio came back with Bluetooth calls.

The same was found and posted by Pete on the Apple Support Communities forums and, as mentioned, I can also confirm that this fix works.

Hope this helps.

Regards,

Cornel.

corneliumusat - Antwort

The magnetic mat its priceless I found. As I removed screws, I placed on magnetic mat and labeled right away. Reassembly time was a breeze.

RayBob - Antwort

Upside-down masking tape also works well, especially when labelled with corresponding step for each bit of parts!

W Fleming -

i did the battery replacement and now my gyro isnt working. I did not know the screws had different lengths. Think it will be ok if i take apart and put correctly or do i need a new logic board??

William Boggs - Antwort

The two 1.7 mm Phillips #000 screws should be placed on top and the 1.2 & 1.3 mm Phillips #000 screw at the bottom.

If you do not respect that order, the Bluetooth calls feature will not work anymore.

Please change all the versions including this step.

Louis Torres - Antwort

I skipped steps 11-16 and that worked pretty well from me. On another commenter's advice, I simply used some packaging tape to tape onto the top of the screen, over the top of the phone, and onto the back of the phone to hold the display at a right angle to the rest of the device. Saved me all the trouble/risk of disconnecting the display, but if you use this method you should be VERY careful not to hit the display while removing the battery.

lambdahindiii - Antwort

I completely agree with lambdahindiii, skip steps 11 - 16 completely. You do have to be careful not to flip open the display, but it's manageable with some care.

I will give disclaimer that I used 3.0x magnification with surgical loupes. Any kind of magnification will help. Also recommend using an LED head lamp for optimal illumination.

wmlee1 -

I'm going to upvote the suggestion to skip steps 11- 16 too.

Some things to look out for:

- Both the battery adhesive strips broke off for me so I had to pry the battery out. You do have to be careful as a good amount of pressure is needed to remove the battery that you don't twist the top display and break the connectors. It's just a trade-off of risks though - you won't have to worry about losing or inserting the wrong screws for the front panel connectors either.

- The metal connector over the touch ID button is hard to put back in. It looks like one piece on the video but it's a separate metal piece that goes over the connector.

- To open the case with the suction cup, I found it useful to place the cup more to one side, and lift that side up first and then work on the other side.

Take your time and good luck all

wilten -

I agree. The steps to remove the display are unnecessary. I skipped these and had no issues.

Matt Reier -

On my phone it actually seems like one of the 1.7mm screws is non-magnetic (the other 3 screws are magnetic). Although this could be a botched repair job from a previous owner...

I guess if it's intentional, it should be the top-right one, as that is closest to the compass IC.

woods81 - Antwort

You're right. The top right screw must be non-ferrous stainless. I've repaired tons of the5-5s and that screw is never magnetic.

BJS -

You are absolutely correct — the upper right one is the non-ferrous / non-magnetic one. I’ve made corrections to this guide and the guide for the iPhone 5 but each time the edits have been denied, once by @Reed Danis and the previous by @Walter Galan. Not sure why they’re denied — it’s obvious which one doesn’t stick to a magnetic screwdriver. This mistake makes these guides quite unreliable and will screw (ha) with the compass.

Drtofu -

Apparently it is non magnetic so as not to interfere with the compass. The iPhone 6 has moved tis down to the bottom near the battery connector.

Jack -

I was fixing a broken screen, when I noticed that the guy that had started the job before leaving it to me, had mixed up the screws for the battery that he changed by himself and step 11. So i started searching around for an answer when the startup just looped with the Apple logo. and I of course started here, and found out that he had mixed up the screws, but step 11 here, and the same step at this link: http://www.irepairnational.com/iphone-5s...

shows two different ways to where the 1,2mm and the 1,7mm screws are being placed.

what is the correct way?

alexaamo91 - Antwort

i had the 'blue screen of death' and here was my workaround:

Apple logo then blue screen

kgale4 -

I was wondering exactly the same thing why we need to un-screw the screen? Anyway place the screws in the order they come and you should find no problems putting them back in right order.

Also I found the screw driver comes with ifixit battery kit does not fit in the screws perfectly. Feeling a little large for these screws. Anyone else had the same experience?

fredhdx - Antwort

The screw 1.7mm screw (highlighted green) was magnetic on the phone I repaired, while the standoff near it in step #27 was not (*see my note in #27). Either I have different parts or the magnetism note was swapped. If anyone else can confirm or deny this it’d help the guide. Thanks.

mnoivad - Antwort

Invest in several colored Sharpie pens. When you see a red circle on the guide, tap that screw head with a red sharpie, orange, green, blue and so forth. This makes it almost fool-proof to not mix up your screws when re-assembling the phone or any other piece of equipment.

Pete H - Antwort

I cannot unscrew the Philips #000 screws in this step using iFixit's Philips #000 screwdriver. The screw does not even turn at all. I wonder about the screwdriver iFixit is using in the video - https://youtu.be/k_OpjhKAUCM?t=180 . Can we buy it ?

Daylen - Antwort

Putting the upper screws back in the bracket is a bit tricky--if you hold the screen at 90 degrees, the connector cables lift up the loose bracket, but if you lower the screen to allow the bracket to lay flat, you can't reach with a screw driver. Be very slow and patient and replace the upper left screw last (after the first three are tight)--these will hold down the bracket fairly well so you can aim the last (upper left) screw into the hole and push down as you tighten.

bartonh - Antwort

That is exactly how I did it; good hint. Thanks.

Andre Silva -

So I managed to loose the top right (non magnetic) screw. I saw it fall to the table, but it's gone. Wonder if it fell back into the phone, as there is a slight rattle sound when I shake it. Will there be any big surprises if I just reassemble without that screw?

larserikkolden - Antwort

If you keep the top steady these steps (17-22) could be skipped. That's how I did. Everything is ok.except screwdriver didn't undo upper one of the battery bracket I had to bend the bracket.

Mehmet Hakan - Antwort

I noticed that reassembling my device, if the metal bracket touch the hole of the 1.3mm screw the touch stopped working. I had to put a little piece of plastic between the hole and the bracket unable to put the screw in (or it would make contact between the hole and the bracket).

Any suggestion?

denis.g.94 - Antwort

Hi Denis, could you be a bit more specific as to which metal bracket you are referring to please? also, where did you put the piece of plastic? Thank you.

jamesmclachlan -

Denis, could you be more specific please? Which metal bracket causes the problem and where did you put the piece of plastic?

I have the same problem, (lost touch screen function).

jamesmclachlan -

Trying to get the screws into the holes and driving them in was extraordinarily challenging due in large part to their magnetic bond. Screws didn't want to leave the driver, once they were in they flew right back out as soon as the driver came within distance. To combat this, I suggest using a thin, clear tape (I used packing tape) cut into 4 strips and place each screw flat side down on one end of each strip of tape. Now you can easily maneuver and securely hold the screws into their holes as the driver pierces the tape easily screwing them in without losing them or your mind. Also, fridge magnets are good to retrieve screws that have fallen into iPhone's nooks and crannies, likewise from carpeting.

James Lee - Antwort

After aligning the bracket over the screw holes, I used the tweezers to pick the screw on its head and position it in the hole. Then, it was not difficult to use the screwdriver to fasten it.

Andre Silva -

If I messed up the screw placement, can it be redone and fixed by putting the screws back in prober order?

Colm Noone - Antwort

Like James Lee (above), I found reinserting the tiny screws quite difficult because the magnetic screwdriver would pull them out, with the screw adhering to the screwdriver at odd angles. What worked was to insert a screw with tweezers, then START the screw using the non-magnetic plastic pointy tool while holding down the plate so the screw could turn easily. Once the screw was started, I tightened it with the screwdriver.

Sandy Trevor - Antwort

Firstly do not just watch the video if you are going to do the battery replacement. I was too busy and stupid and only watched the video and boogered my Girlfiends 5S with the screw replacement boon doggle... You must read the iFix full instructions (forget the video) or you will screw it up!..

yaterbob - Antwort

The iFixit Kit I bought does NOT have the right screw driver to remove these screws. Neither phillips screwdrivers work - the point is much too sharp and does not grip the screw at all. Not happy with this purchase right now.

Richard - Antwort

Color coding the screw heads is an excellent idea. I used red for red - green for green - and black for orange - left the yellow one uncolored. Did a screen capture and labeled it to avoid confusion.

Leonard - Antwort

Also color a small area around the screws on the cable bracket. Makes it real easy to see which screw goes where.

Leonard -

I found out that you don’t need the 1.7mm screw. The shorter one will do and I don’t lose bluetooth.

patjmccarthy - Antwort

I used colored sharpies to keep track of the screws. I color coded the screw heads and around their holes. Worked like a charm.

Brigham Okano - Antwort

I managed to loose the socket of the green screw. Apparently, during my second disassembly of my iPhone the socket (which appears to be screwed in as well) came loose without me noticiing it and promptly vanished later on in the process, never to be seen again. The iPhone does seem to work without it, but still, I’d advise checking that they are still in place when you unmount the metal shield.

Sven Siggelkow - Antwort

Entferne die Abdeckung der Displaykabel vom Logic Board.
  • Entferne die Abdeckung der Displaykabel vom Logic Board.

At my iPhone 5s this part is missing!

Michael Schöttner - Antwort

Benutze das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um die Frontkamera und das Sensorkabel zu trennen. Benutze das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um die Frontkamera und das Sensorkabel zu trennen.
  • Benutze das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um die Frontkamera und das Sensorkabel zu trennen.

The flat end of the spudger works great to position and press down on the connectors during reassembly.

Magnus Dalen - Antwort

I did not try the spudger (but I think I should have), because this cable was the most difficult to me. It kept flipping (not aligning with the socket) and with one hand holding the screen and the other trying to connect was very difficult .

Andre Silva -

Während du die Display Einheit noch stützt, trenne die Kabelverbindung des Digitizers. Beim Wiederzusammenbau kann das Displaykabel sich vom Anschluss lösen. Dies kann beim Anschalten zu weißen Linien oder einem schwarzen Bildschirm führen. Wenn das passiert verbinde das Kabel einfach erneut und setze dein iPhone zurück. Der einfachste Weg, das zu tun, ist, den Akkuanschluss zu trennen und wieder zu verbinden.
  • Während du die Display Einheit noch stützt, trenne die Kabelverbindung des Digitizers.

  • Beim Wiederzusammenbau kann das Displaykabel sich vom Anschluss lösen. Dies kann beim Anschalten zu weißen Linien oder einem schwarzen Bildschirm führen. Wenn das passiert verbinde das Kabel einfach erneut und setze dein iPhone zurück. Der einfachste Weg, das zu tun, ist, den Akkuanschluss zu trennen und wieder zu verbinden.

When you reassemble the cables, you can align them with the sockets using the tip of your finger. A spudger or tweezers are way too clunky and is actually far more difficult. When the cable aligns with the socket, give it a firm push with your finger tip and you should be able to feel it click into place. This is actually a pretty tight mechanical fit and is fairly hard to dislodge.

Sheldon Carpenter - Antwort

After some 4 seconds stripes start to appear and at the bottom a black band of some 3 mm horizontally over the screen. I've restarted, but it keeps showing a clean screen and then after a while the stripes and band start coming through. Is that a battery issue? And when I slide up the light intensity button, the screen starts shivering.

Jules JUSTE - Antwort

And in my wife’s samsung replacing a battery is so easy. I’ve wasted a whole evening and now have broken cables. I get to buy a new screen and no phone for a couple of days. What $@$* is Apple pullig on us here? :(

Jules JUSTE - Antwort

Because Apple wants you to just buy a new phone instead of replacing parts.

Bryan Remely -

No doubt about that.

Bryan Thompson - Antwort

What can I do

i tried to remove the LCD CABLE WITH A METAL SCISSOR.

NOW IT IS NOT WORKING.

HOW TO REPLACE IT. CAN ANYONE HELP IN THAT

Faheem Sameer - Antwort

At the bottom and top are some hardly noticeable white stripes and an after reconnecting the cables 3 times with no difference I connected the old screen again. There were no stripes there… The cables on the new screen don’t look damaged. I’ve repaired other phone screens and I think my display has an issue… what should I do now?

fele felix - Antwort

Trenne schließlich die Kabelverbindung des LCDs. Trenne schließlich die Kabelverbindung des LCDs.
  • Trenne schließlich die Kabelverbindung des LCDs.

When re-assembling, this is the most difficult cable to re-align and re-connect. A second set of hands is helpful. If not available, be patient and line up the connector carefully. Once reconnected, use care not to 'open' the front cover beyond about 85° to prevent pulling this one back off... If you do, you will have to power-cycle the phone (disconnect the battery) to get things working properly again.

Pete H - Antwort

I agree that this was the most difficult step during reassembly. I was trying to use the various tools, but shredded up some of the foam padding on the back of the connectors. After struggling with this for ~20 minutes, I realized just pressing each connector down gently with the tip of my finger snapped each one into place rather easily, no tools necessary.

ilsedorec - Antwort

pure genius, this works

Oliver Markl -

Had to try 4 times until I finally got it right, I would say that less than 80° works well for this step, just take your time and be patient with the screws

hermosillaignacio - Antwort

It should be noted somewhere around these steps that all but one of these connections get removed.

The connection that is left goes to the Power Button, the Mute Switch, and the Volume Buttons. This connection is on the bottom left, below the LCD power connection.

This connector was not supposed to be removed, and I removed all of them as a force of habit.

Once removed, it seems I removed part of the other half of the connector along with the first half.

This has left my customer's iPhone functional, but none of the buttons, besides Home Button/TouchID), work.

In the long run, this is not a huge issue, as AssistiveTouch can emulate physical button presses. I just figured it should be noted.

Mikereilly2009 - Antwort

Using the tool from the opposite side from what is shown here was many times easier (considering I had the front panel attach to a box with the rubber band trick)

David - Antwort

Agree, did the same thing.

Andre Silva -

After completing the battery replacement, when I turned the phone back on everything worked right except, the rear facing camera. It just shows a black screen. Does anyone know how I can fix this???

Melissa - Antwort

After I replaced my battery, I turned the phone back on and everything worked except the rear facing camera. It just shows a black screen now. Does anyone know what I did wrong??? I do I fix this???

Melissa - Antwort

after battery replacing the Volume and Sleep buttons don’t work anymore. What I did wrong and what I can do to resolve the problem?

Thanks

Nicola - Antwort

Step one is recheck your connections. If those are all solid, did you need to pry the battery up to remove it? It’s possible that the prying damaged the cables. If you have photos, share them on our Answers Forum, and you might get some better, more specific help!

Sam Lionheart -

Entferne die Display Einheit vom hinteren Gehäuse.
  • Entferne die Display Einheit vom hinteren Gehäuse.

I replaced my old battery with the one I bought here in iFixit. I replaced the battery according to the instructions of this guide (Using a guitar string did the trick when removing the battery) and finally assembled the sensor ribbon. Turned on the phone and SURPRISE! Error, Touch ID Does Not Work. I was disappointed, in the most part because I was extremely careful, it's not my first repair, and I did not break the ribbon, the Home Button was working properly.

I spent 4 hours re-seating the ribbon and putting in place the metal bracket.

For you guys, who have lost Touch ID but didn't break the sensor flex cable AND the Home button works, I thing I have found a SOLUTION:

As you can see in the picture (link below), a grounding Tip under the screw MUST be in THIS POSITION. If misaligned it will not work. Mine was misaligned during the display disassembly (STEP 16) and this was the solution. A smile returned to my face.

IMG LINK:

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1608...

Oscar Vera - Antwort

Odd..my Touch ID stopped working after I replaced the battery too and I did not harm the connector cable at all and the bracket was snug in position. Then randomly 2 days later it started working again with all my fingerprints remembered. Weird.

Bob smith -

Dear Oscar,

I am very interested in your comment but the photo is not available any more. Could you send the updated link?

Thank you very much,

Alex

Alex -

The link to your photo is still not available. I do not understand which screw is being referred to associated with the fingerprint sensor.

Toby Parnell -

To anybody wondering what the picture was, Internet Archive saved it. You can find it here: https://web.archive.org/web/201606120038...

It’s also the same picture as the 2nd picture in Step 23.

Bryan Remely -

Bryan Remely thank you so much. It’s comment threads like this and contributors like you that make the internet such a valuable tool.

WILL D -

why cant u disconnect the lcd and just put the new one in reverse from step 16? wgy to step 32

Cameron Shelley - Antwort

When you get the old screen off, check the frame edge where the digitizer rests. Mine was caked with gunk that had accumulated there from use. I gently used the tip of a spudger while holding the phone upside-down-ish and scraped out the gunk. Holding it upside-down kept the gunk from falling into the phone.

Sheldon Carpenter - Antwort

thanks for that... I didn't even notice it until I saw your comment.

Brian Hayes -

I’m completely confused about removing the connectors to the screen. It looks to me as though the battery could come out with the screen still attached. How am I wrong?

Lance - Antwort

Führe ein SIM Card Eject Tool oder eine Büroklammer in die kleine Öffnung im SIM-Karten Fach ein. Drücke, um das Fach auszuwerfen. Dies kann einige Kraft benötigen.
  • Führe ein SIM Card Eject Tool oder eine Büroklammer in die kleine Öffnung im SIM-Karten Fach ein.

  • Drücke, um das Fach auszuwerfen. Dies kann einige Kraft benötigen.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Entferne das SIM-Karten Fach aus dem iPhone.
  • Entferne das SIM-Karten Fach aus dem iPhone.

  • Stelle beim Wiedereinführen der SIM-Karte sicher, dass sie sich relativ zu dem Fach in der korrekten Ausrichtung befindet.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Benutze einen Spudger, um vorsichtig den Button aus seiner Fassung auf dem Logic Board zu hebeln. Achte darauf, dass du nur den Anschluss nach oben hebelst und nicht die Fassung auf dem Logic Board. Wenn du die Fassung des Logic Boards hochhebelst, kann der Anschluss gänzlich brechen.
  • Benutze einen Spudger, um vorsichtig den Button aus seiner Fassung auf dem Logic Board zu hebeln.

  • Achte darauf, dass du nur den Anschluss nach oben hebelst und nicht die Fassung auf dem Logic Board. Wenn du die Fassung des Logic Boards hochhebelst, kann der Anschluss gänzlich brechen.

What is this connector for?

istylefix - Antwort

After assembly back that connector won't stick to logic board. it's not broken and on logic board nothing damaged but that connector won't stick back. And beacause of that my power button doesn't work.

Sergey Ivanov - Antwort

This is the only connector I have struggled with, as it doesn't snap down that easily. Does anyone else have tips for an easier time reconnecting this connector? Thanks, it doesn't really want to snap back down.

TheChicken - Antwort

when having a hard time putting the button assembly cable back on, check to make sure the prongs on wither socket are not bent. i had 3 bent, prayed them up gently, and made them as straight in line as possible and reattached the cable to the socket. take extra care with this cable and socket as it is difficult to get back on and doesn't snap in like the others.

williamsmr84 - Antwort

ALTERNATIVE:

As long as you're careful about removing the speaker so you don't damage the small plastic pegs on the top & left sides, you can skip Step 25 - 34 and save a lot of time.

seijihuzz01 - Antwort

I'd agree with this. At I'd least give it a try.

I didn't see this suggestion until after I had problems reattaching the back-facing camera and display assembly to the logic board. Actually damaged the camera connection and had to remove it so the display assembly connections were good.

Bruce Peffley -

As I look back over all the comments, I'd try skipping steps 17-25 and 28-34. They don't look to be necessary to replace the Lightning connector and just make for more potential problems reconnecting everthing

Bruce Peffley -

This picture is also wrong, it is from a iPhone 5S, not from iPhone SE (have a look on the serialnumber) and the area by the powerbutton

holgerklingelhoefer - Antwort

You would be surprised how much force is needed to put this cable back in. Just push a little more firm and it should click in. I played with this for 30 minutes LOL ( BUT CHECK THE CONNECTORS ARENT BENT BEFORE APPLYING MORE PRESSURE! )

Dylan Collins - Antwort

Benutze einen Spudger, um den Lightning Connector aus seiner Fassung auf dem Logic Board zu hebeln. Klappe den Lightning Connector vom Logic Board weg. Klappe den Lightning Connector vom Logic Board weg.
  • Benutze einen Spudger, um den Lightning Connector aus seiner Fassung auf dem Logic Board zu hebeln.

  • Klappe den Lightning Connector vom Logic Board weg.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Benutze die Spitze eines Spudgers, um das Antennenkabel nach oben aus seiner Fassung auf dem Logic Board zu heben. Benutze die Spitze eines Spudgers, um das Antennenkabel nach oben aus seiner Fassung auf dem Logic Board zu heben.
  • Benutze die Spitze eines Spudgers, um das Antennenkabel nach oben aus seiner Fassung auf dem Logic Board zu heben.

Beim Zusammenbau muss man darauf achten, dass der goldene Kontakt des Antennenkabels NICHT die 2,8 mm Abstandsschraube (aus Schritt 27) berührt.

During reassembly you have to ensure that the golden antenna connector does not touch the 2.8 mm standoff screw (from Step 27).

johannesbrand - Antwort

Reassembly: The left edge of the speaker has a thumbnail-width groove into which you can seat the antenna to ensure it's out of the way. You can use your thumbnail in this groove to slide the antenna wire back & forth until it's in the proper position to snap it onto the connector. Trying to reattach it connector-first was frustrating as the part is very small & difficult to maneuver that way.

seijihuzz01 - Antwort

Found it VERY difficult to reattach the antenna cable!!

William - Antwort

Benutze das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um das Kabel der hinteren Kamera aus seiner Fassung auf dem Logic Board zu lösen. Benutze das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um das Kabel der hinteren Kamera aus seiner Fassung auf dem Logic Board zu lösen.
  • Benutze das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um das Kabel der hinteren Kamera aus seiner Fassung auf dem Logic Board zu lösen.

This is a picture from a iPhone 5S, not from iPhone SE. There are little different pieces near the powerbutton

holgerklingelhoefer - Antwort

Entferne jegliche Klebestreifen von der Kamerablitz-Halterung.
  • Entferne jegliche Klebestreifen von der Kamerablitz-Halterung.

This picture is also wrong, it is from a iPhoen 5S, not from iPhone SE

holgerklingelhoefer - Antwort

The same photos are used for many repairs for both phones. The procedures should be identical, despite a few minor visual differences.

Jeff Suovanen -

Entferne die folgenden Schrauben vom Logic Board:
  • Entferne die folgenden Schrauben vom Logic Board:

    • Eine 2,4 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube #000

    • Diese Schraube hält zusätzlich einen kleinen Metallkontakt unter dem Logic Board. Dieser liegt unter einer Plastikabdeckung, aber kann sich lösen. Wenn dies passiert, lies hier wie du ihn ganz entfernen kannst.

    • Zwei 2,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben #000

    • Vier 2,8 mm Abstandsschrauben

      • Abstandsschrauben lassen sich am besten mit einem iPhone Abstandsschraubenbit und Bithalter herausdrehen.

      • Zur Not geht es auch mit einem kleinen Flachschraubendreher, du musst dabei aber aufpassen, dass du nicht abrutschst und umliegende Bauteile beschädigst.

Pl note > Under the main board at (Red) 2.4 mm Phillips #000 screw, there is a small spacer plate with hole. It is at the bottom, below the main board and not visible when removing the main board. Remember to place it back before fitting the main board when reassembling.

Bobby Patel - Antwort

Bobby can you post the exact orientation of the ground part, thanks

hrn1203 -

Thanks Bobby patel

Alma - Antwort

Hi hrn1203, the orientation of the small spacer plate goes like this.... Align the longest edge of the spacer to the top edge of the housing, note also there are 3 pressed dots, these must face downwards against the bottom housing. Bobby's location of the spacer is 100% correct. This is an important part and so this guide should be updated to reflect this spacer. Hope this helps :-)

Paul - Antwort

One of the standoffs are not magnetic. I'm not sure which one, I assume it's the one on the top.

Josh Ginsberg - Antwort

As Josh mentioned, one of the 2.8 mm standoff screws is non-magnetic. It's one of the top two (i.e. two nearest the power switch). Can anyone confirm which one?

kjmorley - Antwort

The standoff in the upper left of the picture is not magnetic on the phone I repaired, so I used my tweezers to place it. It said in Step #7 that that screw was not magnetic. On my phone it was. So, either I have different parts or the magnetism note was accidentally swapped.

mnoivad - Antwort

i nid a help.. may i knw wat does the zone near the red circle works?is it for sim network?

arjun22monster - Antwort

The stand off screw at top left (as per the above picture) is also very slightly longer than the other 3 stand off screws.

steve keeler - Antwort

The non-magnetic standoff receives the non-magnetic phillips screw that holds the display plate. Those fasteners are non-magnetic because they're located near components related to telephony. I've seen reports that using ferromagnetic fasteners at this location can cause interference with the cell radio, but I've yet to personally confirm that. I try to use only non-magnetic fasteners at these points just to be on the safe side.

E West - Antwort

Benutze ein Plastic Opening Tool, um das Logic Board weit genug zu heben, damit du es mit deinen Fingern greifen kannst. Benutze ein Plastic Opening Tool, um das Logic Board weit genug zu heben, damit du es mit deinen Fingern greifen kannst.
  • Benutze ein Plastic Opening Tool, um das Logic Board weit genug zu heben, damit du es mit deinen Fingern greifen kannst.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Ziehe das Logic Board ein wenig von der hinteren Kamera weg. Versuche nicht, das Logic Board jetzt schon zu entfernen, da es hinten immer noch durch das Antennenkabel verbunden ist. Klappe das Logic Board in Richtung des Akkus um, als ob du eine Seite in einem Buch umblätterst.
  • Ziehe das Logic Board ein wenig von der hinteren Kamera weg.

  • Versuche nicht, das Logic Board jetzt schon zu entfernen, da es hinten immer noch durch das Antennenkabel verbunden ist.

  • Klappe das Logic Board in Richtung des Akkus um, als ob du eine Seite in einem Buch umblätterst.

During reassembly, make sure you flip the small ribbon cable up (near top grouping of 5 sockets) so it isn't trapped under the logic board. It's easy to focus on slipping the logic board in and the ribbon cable stays under the logic board, and then you have to remove all the screws again :-/

VWrider - Antwort

Benutze das flache Ende eines Spudgers um das Antennenkabel auf der Rückseite des Logic Boards zu lösen. Entferne das Logic Board vom iPhone.
  • Benutze das flache Ende eines Spudgers um das Antennenkabel auf der Rückseite des Logic Boards zu lösen.

  • Entferne das Logic Board vom iPhone.

Do i need a carrier specific logic/mother board? I have a verizon model

carlo piccolo - Antwort

Hi I would like to know one small iron plate with hole where it will be placed, I cannot fix it, I do not remember where I oppend it ? can you help me please ?

I do not know how to fix it again kindly help me please ?

skhalid2004 - Antwort

Nun ist ein Metallplättchen nahe der hinteren Kamera lose und löst sich möglicherweise aus seiner Vertiefung. Da es sehr klein ist und leicht zu lösen ist, ist es das beste, dieses Plättchen zu lösen und zur Seite zu legen, während du an deinem Telefon weiterarbeitest. Benutze eine Pinzette, um das Plättchen von seinem Platz unter der Klemme links der hinteren Kamera zu entfernen.
  • Nun ist ein Metallplättchen nahe der hinteren Kamera lose und löst sich möglicherweise aus seiner Vertiefung.

  • Da es sehr klein ist und leicht zu lösen ist, ist es das beste, dieses Plättchen zu lösen und zur Seite zu legen, während du an deinem Telefon weiterarbeitest.

  • Benutze eine Pinzette, um das Plättchen von seinem Platz unter der Klemme links der hinteren Kamera zu entfernen.

  • Beim Wiederzusammenbau des Plättchens, richte den kleinen Aufhänger nach rechts und die längste flache Seite nach oben aus.

The small metal plate step 31. If I remember correctly this loose metal plate lies below the logic board, another word logic board lies on top this loose metal plate, then there goes the bracket with a screw on top to hold both down. What is this loose metal plate for? What happen if I place the loose metal plate on top of logic board? Does it affect the rear mic, speaker and headphone jack? Thank you for yr times. N.

eat646 - Antwort

FYI - If you forget to replace the little plate, your Lock button won't work. At least that was my experience.

easleyjs -

I would call that a grounding plate as it looks like it provides grounding for the power button assembly to the board. Without ground the power button would not be able to send current pulses when you short the power button by pushing it from the power button itself > power button cable to logic board.

Not sure why they did this because they could of just provided ground on the cable itself. That's my understanding because that put should not of been designed like that.

Ben -

This picture is also wrong, it is from a iPhone 5S, not from iPhone SE. There is a little different between 5S and SE in the near of the Powerbutton.

holgerklingelhoefer - Antwort

Can anyone post the correct picture or explain the correct position of the metal plate?

Andreas Spannagel -

Current title of this repair thread is iPhone 5S. Is title incorrect?

zb7jpc -

These same steps/images are used in iFixit guides for both the 5s and SE because the two designs are very nearly identical. But there shouldn’t be any difference that’s relevant to the instruction given here. That is, the plate and its position should be exactly the same regardless of which phone you are working on. (But if we got that wrong, please let us know.) If you’re sharp enough to spot a subtle visual difference in some other unrelated component in the background, give yourself a smile and a wink for being clever and then carry on with your repair ;)

Jeff Suovanen -

Thanks a lot for this one !

Guillaume Blas - Antwort

Klappe die Kameraabdeckung aus Gummi mithilfe einer Pinzette aus ihrer Sicherung und Richtung Außenseite des hinteren Gehäuses. Versuche nicht diese Abdeckung vollständig zu entfernen. Sie ist am hinteren Gehäuse festgemacht und muss nur umgeklappt und nicht entfernt werden. Versuche nicht diese Abdeckung vollständig zu entfernen. Sie ist am hinteren Gehäuse festgemacht und muss nur umgeklappt und nicht entfernt werden.
  • Klappe die Kameraabdeckung aus Gummi mithilfe einer Pinzette aus ihrer Sicherung und Richtung Außenseite des hinteren Gehäuses.

  • Versuche nicht diese Abdeckung vollständig zu entfernen. Sie ist am hinteren Gehäuse festgemacht und muss nur umgeklappt und nicht entfernt werden.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Entferne die hintere Kamera vom hinteren Gehäuse. Beim Wiederzusammenbau sollte das Kamerakabel in U-Form gelegt werden, damit es hinter das Logic Board passt. Falls sich der Kamerapuffer aus Gummi bewegt hat, setze ihn vor dem Wiederzusammenbau wieder in die Ausgangsposition zurück.
  • Entferne die hintere Kamera vom hinteren Gehäuse.

  • Beim Wiederzusammenbau sollte das Kamerakabel in U-Form gelegt werden, damit es hinter das Logic Board passt.

  • Falls sich der Kamerapuffer aus Gummi bewegt hat, setze ihn vor dem Wiederzusammenbau wieder in die Ausgangsposition zurück.

Can i juste skipped to this part before the sim tray part and all that ? Because there is dust on it i just want to wipe the dust and put all the pieces back together ?

P.S: how can i know if somebody answer me ?

rabekevin - Antwort

Entferne die beiden 1,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben (Phillips #000), welche den Bügel der hinteren Kamera sichern.
  • Entferne die beiden 1,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben (Phillips #000), welche den Bügel der hinteren Kamera sichern.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Entferne den Bügel der hinteren Kamera vom hinteren Gehäuse.
  • Entferne den Bügel der hinteren Kamera vom hinteren Gehäuse.

It was not noted in this guide but be sure to place the tab on the LEFT UNDER when replacing the rear-facing camera bracket

DAXimus - Antwort

Entferne den Kamerapuffer aus Gummi von dem Gehäuse.
  • Entferne den Kamerapuffer aus Gummi von dem Gehäuse.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Führe die Spitze des Spudgers in das Loch in dem Akkuklebestreifen bei der Kopfhörerbuchse. Hebe die Schlaufe leicht hoch und benutze den Spudger, um die Schlaufe aus ihrer Vertiefung zu holen. Hebe die Schlaufe leicht hoch und benutze den Spudger, um die Schlaufe aus ihrer Vertiefung zu holen.
  • Führe die Spitze des Spudgers in das Loch in dem Akkuklebestreifen bei der Kopfhörerbuchse.

  • Hebe die Schlaufe leicht hoch und benutze den Spudger, um die Schlaufe aus ihrer Vertiefung zu holen.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Ziehe den Akku Klebesteifen gerade hoch vom Mobiltelefon weg. Schneide den Akku Klebestreifen zwischen den beiden weißen Klebestreifen durch. Schneide den Akku Klebestreifen zwischen den beiden weißen Klebestreifen durch.
  • Ziehe den Akku Klebesteifen gerade hoch vom Mobiltelefon weg.

  • Schneide den Akku Klebestreifen zwischen den beiden weißen Klebestreifen durch.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Ziehe den innersten Streifen gerade nach oben. Verdrehe den Streifen nicht; versuche den Klebestreifen so flach und ausgebreitet wie möglich zu halten. Wenn der Kleber zusammenfällt, kann er reißen.
  • Ziehe den innersten Streifen gerade nach oben.

  • Verdrehe den Streifen nicht; versuche den Klebestreifen so flach und ausgebreitet wie möglich zu halten. Wenn der Kleber zusammenfällt, kann er reißen.

  • Stelle sicher, dass der Streifen an keiner Stelle das Mobiltelefons berührt. Sie könnten den Kleber durchstechen und den Streifen reißen.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Ziehe den Streifen vorsichtig und gerade um die Ecke des Akkus. Ziehe den Streifen weg von dem Akku, wenn du um die Ecke gehst, um die scharfe Kante zu vermeiden. Ziehe den Streifen entlang des Akkus ab, bis er sich vom Mobiltelefon löst.
  • Ziehe den Streifen vorsichtig und gerade um die Ecke des Akkus.

  • Ziehe den Streifen weg von dem Akku, wenn du um die Ecke gehst, um die scharfe Kante zu vermeiden.

  • Ziehe den Streifen entlang des Akkus ab, bis er sich vom Mobiltelefon löst.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Ziehe den äußeren Akku Klebestreifen gerade und vorsichting um die Ecke des Akkus herum. Ziehe den Streifen entlang der Kante des Akkus, bis er sich vom Mobiltelefon löst. Ziehe den Streifen entlang der Kante des Akkus, bis er sich vom Mobiltelefon löst.
  • Ziehe den äußeren Akku Klebestreifen gerade und vorsichting um die Ecke des Akkus herum.

  • Ziehe den Streifen entlang der Kante des Akkus, bis er sich vom Mobiltelefon löst.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Wenn einer der Klebestreifen abreißt und der nicht Akku vom hinteren Gehäuse loskommt lege einen iOpener bereit oder benutzen einen Fön, um das hintere Gehäuse direkt hinter dem Akku zu erwärmen.
  • Wenn einer der Klebestreifen abreißt und der nicht Akku vom hinteren Gehäuse loskommt lege einen iOpener bereit oder benutzen einen Fön, um das hintere Gehäuse direkt hinter dem Akku zu erwärmen.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Drehe das iPhone zurück und führe eine Plastikkarte zwischen die Gehäuseseite des Akkus und des hinteren Gehäuses.
  • Drehe das iPhone zurück und führe eine Plastikkarte zwischen die Gehäuseseite des Akkus und des hinteren Gehäuses.

    • Heble nicht gegen das Logic Board, da dadurch das Mobiltelefon beschädigt werden kann.

  • Sei vorsichtig, dass du die Karte so flach wie möglich hälst und vermeidest den Akku zu verbiegen, was ihn beschädigen und gefährliche Chemikalien freisetzen könnte.

  • Drücke die Karte weiter hinein, um den Kleber hinter dem Akku aufzubrechen.

The iphone 3 and 4 were so much easier to fix! :)

gibitzga - Antwort

Entferne den Akku vom hinteren Gehäuse. Entferne den Akku vom hinteren Gehäuse.
  • Entferne den Akku vom hinteren Gehäuse.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Entferne die folgenden Kreuzschlitzschrauben (Phillips #000) von der Vibrationshalterung:
  • Entferne die folgenden Kreuzschlitzschrauben (Phillips #000) von der Vibrationshalterung:

    • Eine 1,7 mm Schraube

    • Eine 2,5 mm Schraube

Kommentar hinzufügen

Entferne die Vibrationshalterung mit einer Pinzette.
  • Entferne die Vibrationshalterung mit einer Pinzette.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Entferne die 1,7 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube (Phillips #000), die das Vibrationsmodul am hinteren Gehäuse befestigt.
  • Entferne die 1,7 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube (Phillips #000), die das Vibrationsmodul am hinteren Gehäuse befestigt.

I can't get this screw out and I think I'm starting to strip the threads. Help!!

Andy Byrd - Antwort

Entferne das Vibrationsmodul mit einer Pinzette vom hinteren Gehäuse.
  • Entferne das Vibrationsmodul mit einer Pinzette vom hinteren Gehäuse.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Entferne die folgenden Schrauben, die den Lautstärkeregler und den Stummtastenhalter an der Seite des hinteren Gehäuses befestigen:
  • Entferne die folgenden Schrauben, die den Lautstärkeregler und den Stummtastenhalter an der Seite des hinteren Gehäuses befestigen:

    • Eine 1,9 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube

    • Zwei 1,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben

Kommentar hinzufügen

Heble den Stummtastenhalter mit der Spitze eines Spudgers von der Seite des hinteren Gehäuses los. Entferne die Stummtaste. Präge dir die Ausrichtung für den Wiederzusammenbau ein: Die rote Linie sollte sich oben auf der Taste befinden. Der Einschnitt auf der Rückseite der Stummtaste sollte in seiner Position zu dem mechanischem Schalter am Kabel passen.
  • Heble den Stummtastenhalter mit der Spitze eines Spudgers von der Seite des hinteren Gehäuses los.

  • Entferne die Stummtaste.

  • Präge dir die Ausrichtung für den Wiederzusammenbau ein: Die rote Linie sollte sich oben auf der Taste befinden. Der Einschnitt auf der Rückseite der Stummtaste sollte in seiner Position zu dem mechanischem Schalter am Kabel passen.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Heble mit einem Spudger den Lautstärkereglerbügel von der Seite des hinteren Gehäuses los. Entferne die Lautstärkeregler. Achte beim Wiederzusammenbau darauf, dass die '+' (Lautstärke hoch) Taste in das Loch neben der Stummtaste kommt.
  • Heble mit einem Spudger den Lautstärkereglerbügel von der Seite des hinteren Gehäuses los.

  • Entferne die Lautstärkeregler.

  • Achte beim Wiederzusammenbau darauf, dass die '+' (Lautstärke hoch) Taste in das Loch neben der Stummtaste kommt.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Benutze eine Pinzette, um die Gummiabdeckung der hinteren Kamera aus ihrem Slot im hinteren Gehäuse zu holen. Benutze eine Pinzette, um die Gummiabdeckung der hinteren Kamera aus ihrem Slot im hinteren Gehäuse zu holen.
  • Benutze eine Pinzette, um die Gummiabdeckung der hinteren Kamera aus ihrem Slot im hinteren Gehäuse zu holen.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Entferne die 1,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube (Phillips #000), die die Antennenklammer des Logic Boards am hinteren Gehäuse befestigt.
  • Entferne die 1,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube (Phillips #000), die die Antennenklammer des Logic Boards am hinteren Gehäuse befestigt.

This is actually the GPS/cellular DRX antenna connector, don't screw up.

Tom Chai - Antwort

Isn't the cellular antenna on the bottom portion (connected via the smaller antenna type connection at the bottom of the main board)? I ask because after replacing my back housing I get a bar or two less than usual so either I missed something or the aftermarket housing I bought isn't good enough. The only thing that didn't fit properly with mine was a metal bracket that is actually below the two mentioned on Step 70 didn't fit properly around one of the standoffs which left me to believe something might not be contacting properly. WiFi and GPS seem to work perfect. This guide seems to end prematurely.

chris -

What do you mean don't mess up? Don't you just screw it in?

Timothy Rappaport - Antwort

Entferne die Antennenklammer des Logic Boards.
  • Entferne die Antennenklammer des Logic Boards.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Entferne die 2,1 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube (Phillips #000), die den Klemmkontakt und den Einschalttastenbügel befestigt.
  • Entferne die 2,1 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube (Phillips #000), die den Klemmkontakt und den Einschalttastenbügel befestigt.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Entferne den Klemmkontakt von deinem iPhone. Achte beim Wiederzusammenbau darauf, dass der Bügel richtig zwischen dem Blitz der hinteren Kamera und der oberen Kante des Gehäuses sitzt.
  • Entferne den Klemmkontakt von deinem iPhone.

  • Achte beim Wiederzusammenbau darauf, dass der Bügel richtig zwischen dem Blitz der hinteren Kamera und der oberen Kante des Gehäuses sitzt.

Where can i buy this or what name this have ? i find nothing about this, please help me

Dominik Wendelmuth - Antwort

Gehe mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers unter das Kabel der oberen Bauteileinheit, um es vom hinteren Gehäuse zu befreien. Gehe mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers unter das Kabel der oberen Bauteileinheit, um es vom hinteren Gehäuse zu befreien. Gehe mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers unter das Kabel der oberen Bauteileinheit, um es vom hinteren Gehäuse zu befreien.
  • Gehe mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers unter das Kabel der oberen Bauteileinheit, um es vom hinteren Gehäuse zu befreien.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Fahre mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers unter den Teil des Kabel nahe der Lautstärkekontrolltaste. Fahre mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers unter den Teil des Kabel nahe der Lautstärkekontrolltaste. Fahre mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers unter den Teil des Kabel nahe der Lautstärkekontrolltaste.
  • Fahre mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers unter den Teil des Kabel nahe der Lautstärkekontrolltaste.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Benutze die Spitze eines Spudgers um den Kleber, der das Vibrationskontaktteil des oberen Bauteilkabels befestigt, vom hinteren Gehäuse zu befreien. Falls das Blitzmodul noch nicht aus seiner Vertiefung im hinteren Gehäuse gesprungen ist, befreie es mit der Spitze eines Spudgers. Falls das Blitzmodul noch nicht aus seiner Vertiefung im hinteren Gehäuse gesprungen ist, befreie es mit der Spitze eines Spudgers.
  • Benutze die Spitze eines Spudgers um den Kleber, der das Vibrationskontaktteil des oberen Bauteilkabels befestigt, vom hinteren Gehäuse zu befreien.

  • Falls das Blitzmodul noch nicht aus seiner Vertiefung im hinteren Gehäuse gesprungen ist, befreie es mit der Spitze eines Spudgers.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Befreie mithilfe eines Spudgers den Mikrofonteil der Einheit vom Gehäuse. Befreie mithilfe eines Spudgers den Mikrofonteil der Einheit vom Gehäuse. Befreie mithilfe eines Spudgers den Mikrofonteil der Einheit vom Gehäuse.
  • Befreie mithilfe eines Spudgers den Mikrofonteil der Einheit vom Gehäuse.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Bewege mithilfe einer Pinzette den Einschalttastenbügel weg vom Gehäuse. Bewege mithilfe einer Pinzette den Einschalttastenbügel weg vom Gehäuse.
  • Bewege mithilfe einer Pinzette den Einschalttastenbügel weg vom Gehäuse.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Drücke mit der Spitze eines Spudgers die Einschalttaste leicht in das Mobiltelefon. Entferne die Taste mithilfe einer Pinzette. Kontrolliere die Ausrichtung der Taste für den Wiederzusammenbau. Die beiden "L"-Formen sollten umgekehrt liegen, der Metallbügel sollte zusammengeklappt auf der Taste liegen.
  • Drücke mit der Spitze eines Spudgers die Einschalttaste leicht in das Mobiltelefon.

  • Entferne die Taste mithilfe einer Pinzette.

  • Kontrolliere die Ausrichtung der Taste für den Wiederzusammenbau. Die beiden "L"-Formen sollten umgekehrt liegen, der Metallbügel sollte zusammengeklappt auf der Taste liegen.

Thanks so much for the diligent documentation and pictures -!

TadhgR - Antwort

If you are going to move metal bar from old power button to new one, make sure you put it right. It's not indifferent which way you insert it because metal bar is not symmetric. If you insert it wrong you can't push power button after assemble. Power button stuck after rear case replacement

Asko Pesola - Antwort

Thanks a lot :)

Didier Daniel -

Löse das Gelenk des Einschalttastenbügels von dem Stift, der ihn am iPhone befestigt. Löse das Gelenk des Einschalttastenbügels von dem Stift, der ihn am iPhone befestigt.
  • Löse das Gelenk des Einschalttastenbügels von dem Stift, der ihn am iPhone befestigt.

how should one remove the bracket without damaging the cable? I still cannot take it off the hinge!

Nicola Maggi - Antwort

Entferne das obere Bauteilmodul vom iPhone.
  • Entferne das obere Bauteilmodul vom iPhone.

  • Dieses Kabel hat viele empfindliche Enden und kann leicht reißen. Wenn du auf Widerstand stößt, wenn du das Kabel anhebst, stoppe sofort. Gehe mit dem Spudger unter das ganze Kabel und versuche es nochmal anzuheben.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Entferne die folgenden Kreuzschlitz #000 Schrauben:
  • Entferne die folgenden Kreuzschlitz #000 Schrauben:

    • Zwei 2,9 mm

    • Zwei 1,5 mm

    • Eine 3,1 mm

    • Eine 3,6 mm

    • Eine 3,4 mm

Kommentar hinzufügen

Entferne den Lautsprecher, indem du ihn an- und aus dem hinteren Gehäuse heraushebst. Entferne den Lautsprecher, indem du ihn an- und aus dem hinteren Gehäuse heraushebst. Entferne den Lautsprecher, indem du ihn an- und aus dem hinteren Gehäuse heraushebst.
  • Entferne den Lautsprecher, indem du ihn an- und aus dem hinteren Gehäuse heraushebst.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Gehe mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers unter die rechte Seite des Lightning-Anschlusses, um ihn aus dem hinteren Gehäuse zu befreien. Gehe mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers unter die rechte Seite des Lightning-Anschlusses, um ihn aus dem hinteren Gehäuse zu befreien. Gehe mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers unter die rechte Seite des Lightning-Anschlusses, um ihn aus dem hinteren Gehäuse zu befreien.
  • Gehe mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers unter die rechte Seite des Lightning-Anschlusses, um ihn aus dem hinteren Gehäuse zu befreien.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Löse das Lighntning-Kabel Modul weiter, in dem du mit dem Spudger unter die Port Komponente fährst. Löse das Lighntning-Kabel Modul weiter, in dem du mit dem Spudger unter die Port Komponente fährst.
  • Löse das Lighntning-Kabel Modul weiter, in dem du mit dem Spudger unter die Port Komponente fährst.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Entferne das Lighning-Kabel Modul vom hinteren Gehäuse.
  • Entferne das Lighning-Kabel Modul vom hinteren Gehäuse.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Da gibt es zwei kleine Metallteile, eine Klammer und eine Dichtung, die sich lösen können und aus dem Telefon fallen können, wenn das Modul des Lightning-Anschluss entfernt ist. Nehme diese Teile heraus und lege sie zur sicheren Aufbewahrung zur Seite.
  • Da gibt es zwei kleine Metallteile, eine Klammer und eine Dichtung, die sich lösen können und aus dem Telefon fallen können, wenn das Modul des Lightning-Anschluss entfernt ist.

  • Nehme diese Teile heraus und lege sie zur sicheren Aufbewahrung zur Seite.

I lost both metal pieces..... is this going to cause me any serious issues?

Andrew - Antwort

Do you have issues with reception?

chris -

control talk stopped working after changing dock (step 70) and everything is in its place

eu mesmo - Antwort

There's also a bracket below these two metal pieces that it taped down that goes around the two screw standoffs at the very bottom. My aftermarket case did not allow me to properly seat this additional bracket. I'm not entirely sure what it does.

chris - Antwort

Abschluss

Arbeite die Schritte in umgekehrter Reihenfolge ab, um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen.

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There appears to be steps missing from this guide. I am finished but the antenna is still attached to the inside of the case. I see it in the image of step 60, but not after. I also have 2 clips remaining on one side of the case.

scott56 - Antwort

I quote scott56 except the last pic I see the piece is #61 and I have two clips per side plus the spring of the SIM card.

stenjidiver - Antwort

The guide is excellent, but few things are missing. You will need double stick adhesive to reattach the battery otherwise it will rattle inside the case. Also the lightening cable need double stick tape to stick to case. Its highly recommended that you have a roll of 3M thin double stick tape before you start. The guide also left out that you need to remove and reinstall SIM card lever and three mounting clips. Plus you need to pull off various rubber components all around the old case including those that secure lightening, speaker, audio jack etc to the case and reinstall them in the new case.

Paul Pryor - Antwort

I don't get service please help ?

Ahmed Raza - Antwort

Are you in the restaurant and waiting to be served? Wrong place and definitely not good question - why are you not asking what is wrong because the phone is not working? Come on!!

Bojan Bilbija -

After Step 64, you must also carefully Peel up and Remove the Antenna Cable Assembly. This is the cable assembly shown in Step 30, that the logic board antenna gets disconnected from. The rear case that I purchased did not have this cable attached to it, so it must be transferred from your existing case to the new one.

cretamk - Antwort

The guide with all comments worked well for me. Thank you to everyone for their input.

I can confirm the additional steps mentioned in the comments:

* Part under vibrator last visible in step 60/61

* Three Mounting clips e.g. visible in step 51

* Two rubber / mesh parts left and right to lighting connector

* One rubber part under that chip visible in step 61

To attach the battery in place I used iPhone 5s/5c/SE Battery Adhesive Strips mentioned in iPhone 5s Akku austauschen. I cut a small piece off it to fix the lightning assembly in place.

The iFixIt Phillips 000 screw river did not work for me. It seems to be just a tick to large and I damaged two screws with it. I used small Phillips screw driver labelled 1.5 x 45 that I bought locally.

Martin Heinrich - Antwort

Can somebody suggest me shall i go to apple store for complete body changing or i can do it at home using the tips above? is it risky?

imrozk09 - Antwort

I want to buy a back housing for my iphone SE .. is it the same as the one of iphone 5s meaning I can buy a 5s housing for my iphone SE?

kylefal - Antwort

Did you try it? have the same issue here in Germany...

Mo -

I wish to replace my rear case on my iPhone SE. Will this guide also work for that phone?

sorenlindegaard - Antwort

In general yes, this guide will work for iPhone SE, although you'll encounter a few minor differences. For example, the contact clip on Step 59 does not exist on iPhone SE—instead, the power button has a cable with a loop that connects to the right side of the case. If you're comfortable jotting down notes when you encounter small differences like that, you should have no problem. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

The most testing issue is the removal of the tiny metal pin that holds the power button bracket. Most rear cases don't come with this pre-installed, so you'll need to transfer it from your old case. This was particularly difficult. It's so small that it's very difficult to get any tools on it and even if you do, there's very little room to get any real leverage to get it to move. The only thing that worked for me was to very carefully destroy my old case and try and cut away the area around the pin with a small pair of cutters (trying not to damage it). A bit of time and patience and it came free. Overall if you can follow the instructions in this excellent guide (and keep comparing your new and old cases) you should be able to get through this project without issue even if one or two steps are missing. Good luck!!

Bigphilly71 - Antwort

I used the following method to remove the tiny metal pin that holds the power button bracket:

I used a fine wire cutter (found in an electronica store) and pushed the pin up. Just enough so that I could remove the pin along the top without damaging it and have it placed in my new case

clbr -

Hey! There is an ULO (unidentified lying object) on Step 33. it seem to appear from nowhere, and is not pointed out in ANY video or tutorial i have seen. Its lying on the left side of the flash mount. Silver thing with 3 dots on it. Anybody knows where this piece is coming from? I cant find out where it belongs on my iphone 5s. Thanks in advance! -Are

Are Storholm - Antwort

Hi there! Looks like that's a spacer bracket that belongs under the screw marked red in the logic board screw removal step (step 30), Paul's comment mentions the intended orientation. We'll update the guide to reflect this!

Sam Lionheart -

TNX! Awesome job you guys doing :D The phone works perfectly without it, but i will put it in if i have to open the $@$* again :D Ty for reply! =)

Are Storholm -

The exact positioning is detailed in this step here. Might be a good idea to pop it back in there before you lose it, or start having issues :P But you might be able to get away with it. Glad the guide worked out for you!

Sam Lionheart -

I have white 5s will black case or white case will be good...

I have lots of bumpers and back covers are with me will be it go waste.

Can I use it in the new case. Will it fix in case.... Please reply to this to my mail. My friend is coming from us this weekend.....

p_niyaz - Antwort

If you have any image of the phone in black and white pl send them.

Thanks Niyazu

p_niyaz - Antwort

I spent 6 hours and the result is : dead iphone. I also have 1 part left; its concentric with a hole in the middle and i dont see it anywhere in this manual.

Also, after step 73 there are several parts left inside the rear case..

max - Antwort

Pretty easy, just very time consuming. Used this guide to replace my space gray iPhone 5s to a gold/black combo iPhone (using OEM parts). I would recommend using a bit of heat once you get the battery and logic board out, in order to safely remove some of the flex cables adhered to the board.

Edward Pedemonte - Antwort

Is iphone 5s back housing compatible with iphone SE?? If not then someone plz suggest me a link for iphone SE OEMs.. Thank you!!

Jay - Antwort

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