Folge dieser Anleitung, um die Lautstärkeregler und den Stumm/Hold-Button zu ersetzen.

Vor der Demontage des iPhones entlade die Batterie auf unter 25%. Eine geladene Lithium-Ionen Batterie kann Feuer fangen und/oder explodieren, wenn sie beschädigt wird.
  • Vor der Demontage des iPhones entlade die Batterie auf unter 25%. Eine geladene Lithium-Ionen Batterie kann Feuer fangen und/oder explodieren, wenn sie beschädigt wird.

  • Schalte dein iPhone ab, bevor du mit der Demontage beginnst.

  • Entferne die beiden 3,6 mm langen Pentalobe Schrauben neben dem Lightning Connector.

When reconnecting be VERY careful not to over tighten. The connectors on the screen that these 3.6mm Pentalobe screws lock with are notorious for breaking off

Blair Tryba - Antwort

what do i do if ive managed to tighten them too hard and now they wont come off?

kristian686 -

Before opening the phone, I gently warmed it using a buckwheat heating pad. This made removal of the adhesive strips (steps 20 to 24) easy.

Howard Bales - Antwort

Exactly what I did as well, the gently warming made the adhesive removal work like a charm. The heat as well help to lift the screen easily, no need for the prying tools for me to open te phone.

For the adhesive removal just pull it slowly to the bottom of the phone and keep in under tension.

On reassembly, turn on the phone after getting all connectors back in place to verify all is working fine before putting all screws back in their spot.

Maarten Vergauwen -

I put mine back together but mine looks very different than this one. Why is it that when I make a call I cannot hear through the ear piece and have to put it on speaker. Also my screen doesn't go black when my face touches it

Bailey Wilson - Antwort

Hey Bailey, which repair were you attempting? Is it possible you have a 6s, or maybe a 6 Plus? You may have better luck with faster troubleshooting if you post in our Answer Forum!

Sam Lionheart -

See its a long time ago you had this issue. You can try to remove the cable from front camera/sensor/earpiece from the motherboard port and gently push it back on. All the problems you relate to is thru the same cable. If this dont solve your problem, check if the earpiece is correctly placed onto the polarity poles, and that the proximity sensor is lying right down into the corresponding socket. If something is blocking the sensor, yeah then the screen wont turn on/off when you put it onto your ear.

Kenneth Hilstan -

You only need 000 Screwdriver for ALL!

Tom Long - Antwort

If you skip to STEP 36, you’ll see that you’ll need a STANDOFF SCREWDRIVER BIT to be able to get all the way to Step 39 and remove the antenna. Read through the comments, and you’ll see how frustrated people have gotten since my kit didn’t include the Standoff screwdriver, and I had to dig around for and carefully use a flathead, which took a very long time. If you can’t get that Standoff screw off, you’ll end up with a partially disassembled iPhone and unable to progress. Make sure you have this tool before you proceed.

Brian Mojica -

what do i do if all the screws fail to come off and if i don’t have some of the tools like the iSclack

Brandon Kato - Antwort

I see in the preamble that when you replace your logic board, you would lose touch id functionality, so my question is what if you have the homebutton and thus the fingerprint reader for the logic board replacement, would touch id work?

socratesmens - Antwort

The guide for the iPhone6 battery replacement needs to be revised. There are a couple of issues.

1) While the battery cover has two screws, they are different lengths. Since they are very small, it can be hard to see the difference (until one tries to screw the smaller one into the longer hole). The video needs to mention this.

2) The application of the adhesive strip if very different from what is mentioned. Also, there is a “one piece plastic” applique, and it is very unforgiving. The video should show this process in more detail.

I believe the attention to this detail would help folks correctly install their iPhone 6 batteries, and with the recent Apple disclosed battery problem, would continue to show that iFixit is very committed to the end-user.

Gary Long - Antwort

Please reconsider this repair!

Before you remove any screws, please consider taking your part to a local repair pro and asking them to install it. The many cables connecting the screen assembly to the body of the iPhone are unruly and hard to reconnect. I knicked a cable and thus rendered the entire assembly and repair unfixable. I consider myself capable and tech savvy, but it’s too easy to make a tiny mistake and ruin your phone.

Bruce Coriell - Antwort

I felt a bit silly getting stuck at the end of a long repair, unable to screw one of these last screws back in. What worked was gently pinching the phone above and below the screw, to make sure the screen and back were perfectly aligned.

Matt D - Antwort

Apple edits posts on their Communities website that link to this fix page justifying as follows:

“We’ve edited your post because following the procedures at the site you provided may lead to damage to the user’s device.”

What is certain is that following Apple Support’s advice of resetting our phones again and again never works whereas this fix works. Apparently Apple does not want people to know that their hardware fails and can be fixed, because then they would need to explain why they don’t offer neither the fixing service nor the fixing advice by directing us to this website.

Brice - Antwort

Before you get started, I suggest you confirm you are replacing the correct camera. If you are thinking of a camera, the front is the side of the device with the main lens. On an iPhone this is actually known as the rear facing camera. Once the phone is disassembled your orientation can be distorted and it is not that hard to fail to realize your are replacing the wrong camera. Doh!

William Miller - Antwort

I found it very useful to use a magnet sheet when doing these repairs. I use electrical tape or a sharpie to make a grid, and place each micro screw in a separate box on the grid.

I work directly over the magnet sheet, so that if something drops I have a better chance at not losing it.

If you do lose a screw, go over the work area with a fridge magnet. It will pick it up if it hasn’t popped too far away.

Megan Telliano - Antwort

Die nächsten drei Schritte zeigen die Benutzung des iSclack, ein gutes Werkzeug um das iPhone 6 sicher zu öffnen, welches wir allen empfehlen, die mehr als eine Reparatur durchführen. Wenn du den iSclack nicht benutzt, überspringe die nächsten 3 Schritte und folge einer anderen Methode
  • Die nächsten drei Schritte zeigen die Benutzung des iSclack, ein gutes Werkzeug um das iPhone 6 sicher zu öffnen, welches wir allen empfehlen, die mehr als eine Reparatur durchführen. Wenn du den iSclack nicht benutzt, überspringe die nächsten 3 Schritte und folge einer anderen Methode

  • Wenn der Abstandshalter aus Plastik noch in der Mitte des iSclack ist, entferne diesen jetzt – er ist nicht benötigt für größere Smartphones wie das iPhone 6.

    • Schließe den Griff des iSclack, um die Saugnapf-Zange zu öffnen.

There was only one suction cup in my kit. Why show the need for two if ifixit provides only one?

Lisa Klitses - Antwort

Do Not Worry. The Islack comes seprate. This guide shows you how to remove the front screen with a normal suction cup.

Owen -

I found that the single suction cup from the kit worked very well. It didn’t take that much force to separate the front panel from the phone. I think any suction cup that you are able to get a firm grip on will probably work as well. There isn’t any adhesive holding the front panel in. It just snaps in and out. If you have a cracked screen and no screen protector, it may be hard to get a good suction seal. If that’s the case, someone else here suggested applying clear tape to the front glass to get a good surface for applying the suction cup. In my case, I already had a screen protector that was still intact so the suction cup sealed easily.

fiftysomething - Antwort

  • Platziere das untere Ende deines iPhone zwischen den Saugnäpfen.

    • Positioniere den oberen Saugnapf direkt über (aber nicht auf) dem Home Button und drücke ihn gegen das Display.

  • Öffne den Griff um die Zange zu schließen. Platziere die Saugnäpfe mittig und drücke Sie kräftig gegen die Ober- und Unterseite des iPhones.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Halte dein iPhone gut fest und schließe den Griff des iSclack, um die Zange zu öffnen. Die Saugnäpfe heben dabei die Display Einheit von der Rückseite des Gerätes.

  • Das iSclack Öffnungswerkzeug wurde entwickelt, um dein iPhone genau so weit zu öffnen, dass die Teile getrennt werden können, aber keine Kabel beschädigt werden.

  • Löse die Saugnäpfe von deinem iPhone.

  • Überspringe die nächsten drei Schritte und fahre fort mit Schritt 8.

The iSclack opened the iPhone 6 with little effort. I could have given even less opening pressure than I did. Fantastic tool. Worth the investment.

Tim Dougherty - Antwort

It's never mentioned anywhere that with iSclack even if you save the cables, glass easily detach from plastic frame. When you ri-assembly the phone, this will involve a glass not perfectly adherent to the body. In my opinion is better if you help yourself with a spudger to lift frame from rear case when you are using the iSclack.

marco bigoni - Antwort

Holy cow this tool made it so much easier than a spudger and didn't damage anything. Totally worth the investment.

Fratelli '85 - Antwort

Really need to get one of these. so much easier then the basic type.

Richard W - Antwort

  • Entferne die folgenden Kreuzschlitz #00 Schrauben von der Abdeckung des Akkuanschlusses:

    • Eine 2,2 mm Schraube

    • Eine 3,2 mm Schraube

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Entferne die metallene Abdeckung des Akkuanschlusses vom iPhone.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Benutze ein Öffnungswerkzeug aus weichem Plastik (Plastic Opening Tool), um vorsichtig den Akkuanschluss vom Logic Board zu lösen.

  • Achte darauf, nur das Kabel zu lösen und nicht den Anschluss selbst. Wenn du den Sockel löst zerstörst du vielleicht den gesamten Anschluss.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Ziehe den ersten Akku-Klebestreifen, ausgehend von der unteren rechten Ecke des Akkus, nach unten weg.

  • Benutze deine Finger oder eine stumpfe Pinzette und sei extra vorsichtig wenn du in der Nähe des Akkus arbeitest – einen Li-Ionen Akku aufzustechen kann gefährliche Chemikalien freisetzen und einen Brand verursachen.

  • Bevor du weiter arbeitest kannst du aber auch die zwei Kreuzschlitzschrauben entfernen, welche den Vibrationsmotor sichern. Dadurch erhältst du mehr Freiraum, um die Akku-Klebestreifen erfolgreich abzuziehen.

Before you start on the battery, jump ahead to step 27. Click the "this guide" and read and watch the video. Then come back and start on the battery. The adhesive strips are difficult the first time. They work like 3M Command Strips products, if you've ever used those. Stretching them lengthwise makes them release.

Joel Horie - Antwort

The “This Guide” link is in the STEP 25 text and in the Conclusion text. There is no Step 27 in the current (03 Nov 2017) online guide.

hobywonkenobee - Antwort

Several comments below attest to the benefit of heating the back of the phone (thus heating the adhesive) before attempting to remove the adhesive strips. See below.

kevin evans - Antwort

Definitely easier to remove the adhesive after using the iOpener to warm up the phone!

Richard Van Cleave - Antwort

My phone did not have the tabs or peel off adhesive. I had the pry, yes pry, the battery out of the phone while heating it. The battery was glued in place and came out shaped like a banana. I’m just glad it did not puncture during the process. On the plus side, I didn’t need to install the new adhesive pad, as it looked like that is what was in there, and they were still sticky. As I think back, this phone was replaced by Verizon under warranty, and they gave me a refurbished phone. I bet it already had a repair battery in it…

Darren Rowley - Antwort

  • Halte den Klebestreifen bei diesem Vorgang glatt und knitterfrei. Verknickte Streifen kleben zusammen und reißen statt ordentlich heraus zu kommen.

    • Ziehe den Akku-Klebestreifen langsam vom Akku weg in Richtung des unteren Rands des iPhones.

    • Um zu vermeiden, dass der Klebestreifen reißt, achte darauf, dass der er sich nicht mit dem Vibrationsmotor oder anderen nahegelegenen Komponenten verhakt.

    • Ziehe gleichmäßig und halte den Streifen unter konstanter Spannung bis er zwischen Akku und Gehäuserückseite herausrutscht. Am Besten ziehst du in einem Winkel von 60 ° oder weniger.

  • Der Streifen dehnt sich dabei auf ein Vielfaches. Fahre mit dem Ziehen fort und fasse in der Nähe des Akkus nach, falls nötig.

  • Sollte der Klebestreifen trotz allem beim Entfernen reißen, nutze die Pinzette, (keinesfalls den Akku dabei beschädigen!) um den Rest zu greifen und weiter zu ziehen. Falls er unter der Batterie unerreichbar reißt, fahre mit den nachfolgenden Schritten fort.

I suggest removing the vibrator before attempting to remove the adhesive strips. It makes the process much easier. I broke both tabs following this step and recovered both the strips by removing the vibrateor and using a tweezers and fingers to pull the remaining strip. I grabbed a corner of the strip underneath the battery and pulled very gently until I was able to recover the entire width of the strip. This required holding the corner of the strip with my fingers and using the tweezers to grab the stip closer to the battery, allowing me to grab more width.

kkm113 - Antwort

I had to do this, so I will vouch for this step. It made things a lot easier and is a pretty simple removal/installation.

Dan -

This should be a required Step in this guide. I've replaced two batteries now, one without removing the vibrator, and it took me about a half hour of using a blow dryer because I ripped the adhesive strips. Removing the vibrator allows for the "down-right" / "down-left" pulling of the strips MUCH MORE EASILY - just removed both without any problems...no blow dryer needed now!

ethanmaretich -

My iphone 6 will not power on. I started it with 30% battery can you suggest solutions?

xavierwells03 - Antwort

It was that dang data cable. Awesome, thanks!

xavierwells03 -

I did this but it doesn't charge. I'm concerned that I may not have attached the new battery cable properly. It didn't snap into place very well. It looked as if the new cable had some plastic that may have been blocking the connectors I'm not sure how snug it's supposed to go on. It definitely did not click into position the way the screen cables clicked in. Anyway, I connected as best I could and put the metal cover on and it doesn't work. Was I supposed to do something to the new battery's cable connector so that it would connect better?

My phone had some water damage and I was hoping that replacing the battery would solve the problem.

epetner - Antwort

When 'reversing the steps' to put it back together, where do the adhesive strips come in? And where do you get them? How do you put them on?

TJE - Antwort

Hi TJE, you won't be able to follow every step exactly in revers ;) You can buy the strips here, iPhone 6/6s/7 Battery Adhesive Strips, or just use a piece of double-sided tape. For the adhesive strips, just peel off one layer of the backing, align the strips as they were in step 20, press them onto the battery and remove the outer backing, and put it in the phone, making sure the connector can attach to its socket, then head up to step 19 attach the connector etc.

Sam Lionheart -

The strips need more instruction/picture. As soon as I tried to peel the top layer the strips stuck to each other and created a mess. I salvaged part of the strip, but not pretty. Used double sided tape. Much easier.

eschrank - Antwort

AGREED! I bought the iFixit kit and this instructional is great, for sure... buuuuut it really would have been nice to see how you guys apply the new battery adhesive. I had no idea and just about botched mine. Thankfully I figured it out before it was a total loss.

leon -

Yup, I agree! The only bit of information that is missing.

I hope I do not have to remove the battery again as i put the strips on the wrong way round.

The kept folding themselves under the battery, so next time not tabs. I did not pust hard on the battery though so that may save some ball ache.

I did not need to remove the screen, so all in all a simple process. I think once you have done one or 2 batteries, then it becomes easier as you are learning by doing.

PJ Donnelly -

That information isn't missing exactly, it's just a separate guide. It's linked in the last step of this guide. It pays to read all the way to the end ;)

Jeff Suovanen -

There is another guide that explains it, here is the link to it. iPhone Battery Adhesive Strips Replacement

IFIXIT should point in the right step to avoid issues on adhesive missteps.

Anand Parthasarathy -

Heat helps. Got lucky pulling both out full length from the bottom. A few minutes with a hair dryer prepped the aluminum case to surrender the stretchy sticky tabs. Be sure to click the tape install link so that you apply the new double sticks correctly. I also 'dry fitted' the battery first to see where the connector lined up. With the battery all the way at the top of the opening, the connector took a bit of effort to align. With strips attached, I allowed some space and the connector fell into place.

griffn - Antwort

why do you need to secure the battery with the strips in the first place? Will the battery slide around?

jsimons - Antwort

We recommend readhering the battery to the rear case with some form of adhesive. You don't have to use the adhesive strips we sell, but if your battery is just bouncing around inside the case you risk damage to the cell itself or the ribbon cable. There's also circuitry at the lower edge of the battery that is not meant to take a lot of abuse. It's not likely that your battery will explode, but it could become damaged and leak, or stop working prematurely.

Evan Noronha -

I didn't secure the battery with anything and after completing the installation, my battery bounces around inside the phone. Personally, I don't see any problems with this and if anything, it gives my iphone 6 a haptic touch type feel :) I'll let you know if it explodes.

Brett Benson - Antwort

Be careful when placing the new battery. The compartment is a little bigger than the battery, but the cable to the connector is pretty stiff. I had to do some serious adjusting of the cable to get the connector to align. I suggest connecting the connector before laying down the battery.

Howard Bales - Antwort

I was able to pull the right strip completely out just from the bottom of the battery. Pull straight out with a low angle (just slightly above the black chip so it doesn't get caught or break) and the adhesive will pull right out. There's no need to go around the sides of the battery unless the adhesive is dry and not flexible. If the adhesive is very flexible, you'll be able to pull it out very easily as long as you take your time and are careful. It also helped that I started with 100% battery and drained down to under 25%, so the iphone was very warm from doing this and that helped make it very easy to pull the adhesive out. I did not need a warming kit, I just used the heat from using the iphone to drain the battery before shutting it down for the repair!

Ryan - Antwort

I managed to pull the strips out without using any heat. I pulled maybe 25 degrees from the vertical, carefully avoiding the metallic parts around. However, after starting to pull with an even pressure, and seeing that the strip was stretching without coming out, I found that it helped if I gave small, repeated tugs, rather delicate but abrupt. This way I could actually hear the strip pulling out from under the battery, with a rubbery vibrating sound. It must have taken maybe 100 small tugs for each strips but they came out easily. Also, as the extracted part got too long, I held it with the other hand and grabbed it again further down the exposed portion, to always have a shorter section to pull on.

matteorisoldi - Antwort

Pulling straight down towards the bottom of the phone at a small angle worked well for me. I highly recommend taking your time to prevent breakage. I think I spent over 8 minutes on each strip just slowly stretching it out so it would not break. Just keep it straight and dont twist. I was able to remove both strips intact and thus did not need to pry the battery. Because I was able to do this method, I left the screen attached and saved a few steps (I was not trying to save time, just did not want to create additional problems by removing and reconnecting various ribbons). I think slow and steady will be your best friend. I did not heat up the adhesive or case.

Michael Kirkpatrick - Antwort

This is a straight up BS instruction - both of my strips broke IMMEDIATELY. I ended up with a blow dryer, dental floss, credit card and about a half hour of swearing. This step needs to be re-written\improved.

Chet Seidel - Antwort

Sorry you had such a tough time. I’ve had them break on me instantly as well. Unfortunately that can’t be fixed with better instructions—sometimes the strips get brittle and practically disintegrate when pulled. I’m not sure if it’s an issue with the strips degrading over time, heat/moisture, manufacturing tolerances, or something else—it seems a bit random and it’s definitely frustrating when it happens. That’s why we have the additional instructions for the card, floss, etc. Better luck next time I hope ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Jeff Suovanen -

Same thing just happened to me. Had to use a guitar string and slid it underneath along with heating and prying with a card. My phone is about 4 years old though so it was expected as the adhesive dries out and becomes incredibly hard to remove. Even after the battery was out I had to scratch constantly at the adhesive to get it off the body.

Kieran Kristoffersen -

One of the trickier parts, mine tore as soon as I tried on both.

Richard W - Antwort

I would definitely recommend heating the back of the phone with a heating pad for 15 minutes prior to this step. The first time I tried pulling the first strip, it broke off almost instantly. I then heated the back of the phone with a heating pad for 15 minutes and was able to remove the 2nd strip as described in the instructions above. I was then able to retrieve the 1st strip using a pair of tweezers and remove it as described above.

kylecompfix - Antwort

The first white strip ripped right off before any of it pulled loose. I was extra careful with the second one and got 2/3 of it off before it broke. Heating the back side of the phone probably would have helped. I didn’t think there was any hope of getting the battery out until I read the comments here. Here is what I did, I took an iron and used it to heat up a 5 lb metal weight so it would stay warm for a while. I put the phone on the heated weight to keep it warm. I took dental floss and worked it under the battery to try and work the white strip loose. At the same time I used a plastic credit card/door key to work the battery up from the side. I eventually worked the plastic card under the back edge and worked my way deeper in until I was able to get it loose. When I got it loose it looked like the white strip was wadded up underneath the battery. I don’t think I had a chance of getting the strips up by just pulling.

mike garner - Antwort

Both my strips broke at about 5-10 cm of pulling. Heart sank. I repeated the following: heat from hair dyer for about 1 min until the case was hot to touch, IKEA card edge to pry the battery along its length, reheating when the case cooled. Moved onto a stiffer/ thicker credit card type item once I could get it under the battery. Took me about 20-25 mins but with new confidence it could easily be done in 10 minute; I erred on caution since first time. I just used two 3 mm wide strip of double sided tape to secure the battery. Once i removed the film I heated up the case once again the soften the new adhesive before placing the battery. Working fine.

Richard L - Antwort

Just broke the two strips of double sided tape. Look at the pictures well here. Pull the strips out a long way (i.e. the length of the battery or more) before you try to move them around the sides of the battery. One they are pulled out that far, becareful as you try to manurer them around the batter as they are now fragile and can break / tear easily. I was able to use a very thin flexible but strong ID card to wedge under the battery and with some effort (careful effort) I was able to pry the tape from under the battery. Half of the tape was still too strong and the battery came out with half of the battery casing left on the bottom case of the phone. Very strong tape the original tape

Ron - Antwort

2 - iPhone 6 devices to replace batteries on. First was a total MESS! Strips broke - immediately! After much gentle prying, plastic cards, blue picks and dental floss, I got the bloody thing out! Second iPhone, I came at it differently. Used my iOpener (heater) to warm the whole phone for about 40 minutes. Peeled up the black “top edge” of the first strip, and it was then I noticed the top side white adhesive is NOT connected to the bottom side. Only the black film makes the connection on the factory battery. I was very gentle with that tab - until I saw the white strip start to appear from under the battery. I then became MUCH more deliberate with my pulling. No going back in (sticky stuff gets stuck on the battery edge) just smooth, steady pulling of the (warm) strip. As about an inch was exposed, I replaced my pulling fingers back near the edge of the battery without allowing any slack. More and more adhesive came out, and each time I repositioned my grasp. Finally - snap, and the strip was gone!

Bill Groth - Antwort

The iFixit youtube video (www.youtube.com/watch?v=KtK7b_pqnCU) shows a method of pulling the adhesive around the bottom, side, and top of the battery. I did this for the first adhesive. The one caution with that approach is that, as you’re pulling the adhesive, it could get caught on surrounding components and that could cause a break if you’re not careful. For the second adhesive I pulled it only in the direction away from the bottom of the phone (as shown in Step 21) and that was MUCH simpler. As you’re pulling the adhesive, even if a slight tear occurs in the process, keep at it with a slow and steady motion to remove as much as you can. Thankfully the adhesive strips came off completely in my repair.

Jimmy Doi - Antwort

That was fun!! I removed the volume side adhesive strip first. It broke immediately, but I was able to get it started again with the tweezers. It came right out. The inside strip was another story. It also broke immediately and I couldn’t get it started again with tweezers or anything. Since the volume side strip was out I used the black spudger tool to slowly start wedging the battery up and then I used a gift card to work the battery the rest of the way out. The gift card was not as thick as a credit card but was stiff enough to work the adhesive without bending the battery too much.

brian - Antwort

  • Wiederhole für den zweiten Streifen.

    • Drücke den Akku nach unten, während du den zweiten Streifen entfernst, er könnte sonst den Akku heraus schleudern, wenn er sich vom Gehäuse löst.

  • Wenn du beide Streifen erfolgreich entfernt hast, kannst du die nächsten zwei Schritte überspringen.

  • Wenn aber einer der Streifen unter dem Akku abgerissen ist und es unmöglich ist, ihn herauszuziehen, fahre mit dem nächsten Schritt fort.

First adhesive (component side) broke during removal, but enough of it was hanging out to finish the job. 2nd strip (vol side) broke and snapped so far back I couldn't retrieve any part for pulling. HOWEVER, I proceeded with wedging a health care card, which is more flexible and thinner than credit card, and continued to push the adhesive from component side to edge of case. Once I have gotten enough adhesive bunched up and battery is showing signs of being lifted slightly, with health care card still in place, carefully swap a credit card and continue to leverage battery out slowly. (I did all of this without taking sceeen off, so be careful and do it at your own risk)

youmingc - Antwort

The correct way of taking off the adhesive is not how it's shown in the picture (that is exacly how I broke both strips): it should be pulled out by tearing it away and right (to the speaker direction) and as flat as possible, and as the strip grows thinner move up but still pulling "down-right" until all comes out, same movement: " down-left" for the left strip

Ed Oliver - Antwort

Definetly aided in the removal. Thanks!

Nicholas Sattele -

This comment refers to an out-of-date version of this guide. The current photos are correct. ;)

Jeff Suovanen -

just wanted to comment i followed this method and found it to be the easiest. as i got more and more adhesive out, i wrapped the excess around my finger like you would do with excess dental floss to keep the firm grip. worked perfectly. the total job was roughly 5-7 minutes from the first screw to the last.

Robert Vela -

Highly recommend using your iphone to do high power consumption tasks before shutting it down. This will warm the inside of the iphone and warm the adhesive strips. Doing this allows you to very easily pull the right adhesive strip completely out from the bottom of the battery. I just pulled straight out at a low angle and kept pulling until the strip was completely removed. You do need to take your time and be careful, pull slowly and it will eventually come out completely. If it is dry and not flexible, you'll will most likely fail, so make sure the inside of the iphone was warmed prior to starting your repair.

Ryan - Antwort

The white "Command" type adhesive band broke, but was able to reach it with tweezers in the First Aid kit. Winding the adhesive around the tweezers with gentle tension allowed me to pull it all out and then the battery was "free".

malowitzp - Antwort

Pull the strip out and down toward the speaker as much as you can. Don't rush trying to pull it around the corner of the battery. I did this on the first one and it ripped. On the second one I pulled it down/straight as much as possible and it came off easily. The earlier comment is correct about the picture not being the right way to pull the strips.

aggiechad2003 - Antwort

The pictures have been updated! Thanks for your input.

Jeff Suovanen -

The 2nd one did break loose on me, but I was able to pick it up with the sweet tweezers provided with the Repair Tools kit. It took a few tries, but I was able to snag an edge and pull the strip back successfully.

smahar - Antwort

Heat the back of the phone before trying to pull the adhesive, makes it much easier.

Jonathan MacIntyre - Antwort

To heat the back of my phone I opened a console on my laptop and had it run a ridiculous computation, then put my phone underneath.

kevin evans - Antwort

Before you put in the new battery (with the new adhesive strips on it), be sure to bend the pre-bend the battery connector cable!!!! (In the same pattern as the old battery!!!!) Will save you a big headache when trying to reconnect the battery connector cable.

Bernadette Smith - Antwort

Pull slowly, do not rush it and it will be fine.

info - Antwort

I agree with Jonathan MacIntyre . Heat the back of the phone with a heating pad for 15 minutes prior to do this and the strips come off much easier! I didn’t heat it at first and I almost broke off the first strip. (I was able to recover it later on with the tweezers after heating it with a heating pad.) The strips came out much easier after heating!

kylecompfix - Antwort

  • Wenn Reste der Klebestreifen den Akku an der Rückseite festhalten, erhitze einen iOpener oder nutze einen Haartrockner, um das Gehäuse direkt hinter dem Akku zu erhitzen. Die richtige Temperatur ist erreicht, wenn du das Gerät so warm ist, dass du es gerade nicht mehr angenehm anfassen kannst.

I've found it useful to warm the phone with the iopener from the beginning, and avoid the breakage altogether.

Christa - Antwort

I wish I'd read Christa's comment beforehand. I didn't and started the process just fine, then both strips broke. I used a hairdryer multiple times to make progress melting the strips and wedging out the battery. Using a credit card alone (and then a credit card plus floss) wasn't enough. I used a cheese knife (carefully) for more leverage and that made the difference.

jaksbackpack - Antwort

You don't need the iopener or a hair dryer. I put rice in a sock, rubber banded the top closed, microwaved for 40 seconds and placed it under the phone. It worked like a charm and allowed me to work on the battery while keeping the adhesive warm.

aggiechad2003 - Antwort

simply used my wifes hair dryer and passed it over the back end for about 30secs or so. don’t know if it helped but it was easy to remove the adhesive strips. may or may not be necessary.

Robert Vela - Antwort

+1 to Christa. Worked much better once heated.

Jonathan MacIntyre - Antwort

Wouldn’t doing this step to start when removing the adhesive strips make it easier to start with?

Mike - Antwort

The microwaving rice in a sock trick worked perfectly for me. (Daughter had done a third-party battery replacement — when I opened it, found no exposed adhesive tabs, at all!)

jsg68 - Antwort

  • Drehe das iPhone wieder um und fädle ein Stück Zahnseide oder Nylonschnur hinter den Akku. Ziehe den Faden nun in einer "Sägebewegung" langsam vor und zurück, um den Klebstoff zu trennen.

    • Eine bessere Alternative zur Zahnseide ist eine abgewickelte Gittarensaite, zum Beispiel eine 0.009E Saite eines 12-Saiten Sets.

  • Alternativ kannst du auch eine Plastikkarte vom Gehäuserand zwischen den Akku und die Rückseite führen.

    • Schiebe die Karte nicht im Bereich zwischen der oberen Kante des Akkus und dem Lautstärkeregler (-) ein, sonst riskierst du, das Lautstärkekontrollkabel zu beschädigen, das direkt unter dem Akku in das Rückgehäuse geklebt ist.

    • Nutze nicht das Logic Board als Hebel, du könntest dabei dein iPhone beschädigen.

  • Achte darauf, die Karte so flach wie möglich zu halten, um nicht den Akku zu verbiegen. Dies könnte ihn beschädigen und gefährliche Chemikalien freisetzen oder ihn entzünden. Verwende keine spitzen Werkzeuge beim Entfernen des Akkus.

  • Drücke die Karte weiter hinein, um den ganzen Kleber zu lösen.

The bad news was that the adhesive strip ripped on the logic-board side. The good news is that recovery was not as difficult as I thought. By using a hair dryer, and some very patient wedging with a credit card, I was able to separate the battery from the adhesive, and then remove it. Some simple cleanup with tweezers got the adhesive sticking to the case. Just make sure you get it right on the edge side, or this technique will be a lot harder to pull off.

Billy Bob Baler - Antwort

I screwed up the peeling part but I managed to get it through with a credit card.

Important, do not force the card down. Just take your time pushing and moving the card left and right. When the battery was up I just kept going with my hand, reeeeeally slowly and with constant force (so that it peels off the remaining straps).

Emanuele - Antwort

The left side adhesive strip broke where I couldnt reach it. I tried dental floss but it wasnt strong enough in my case to cut through the adhesive, but I had 20lb fishing line that I had used to remove an emblem from a car and that worked well. I think the key is to pull the adhesive strips nearly straight down and not to the side.

Roger Stroud - Antwort

Both adhesive tabs broke for me. I ended up starting with the hairdryer then trying floss and then a plastic card which was too flimsy. In the end I used the plastic wedging tool to pry the battery up and hold it there. With the battery raised, on the side closest to the phone edge I was able to scrape the adhesive strip together enough with the tweezers and then my fingers to pull at it laterally stretching it so that it came away in one piece. The battery was slightly dented and bent, but not punctured at this point. The second strip near the logic board was much higher and necessitated bending the battery much more and just holding it there. I couldn't get the battery up enough for fear of a puncture so I just held it there as the adhesive slowly detached itself and in the end the battery just popped free. Not sure if the warming from the hair dryer made any difference.

Jimmy Howlum - Antwort

I used an ID card (without magnetic strip) just like the picture above to wedge the battery up to reach the broken adhesive strip.

malowitzp - Antwort

This part is where I almost gave up. The strips broke, I tried to pry it out, then I heated the back with a hair dryer. I used an ID card and got under it and shimmied left and right until the battery was able to break look from the strips. Afterwards the battery was bent which concerned me it could just break. At this point I realized, yes, Apple does not want you to get in their phones. After it came out all went well and was glad to have finished this.

Garret Gray - Antwort

For me the strips broke and I had to use credit card to detach the battery. This is quite tricky thing.

Kristaps Grinbergs - Antwort

Cool trick, used hair dryer and gentle persuasions.

Richard W - Antwort

Be careful if you have failed to pull out the adhesive near logic board. Since the cable responsible for power button and mic near the back cam lays above apple’s logo plate, when you pull out the battery with logo plate sticked with it, you may damage the cable. Mine cable was damaged in this way.

Berry Wang - Antwort

Used the floss technique and damaged the volume control cable. Fortunately complete cable and button assembly is a $9 part on Amazon.

stvn chng - Antwort

If u read the instructions in advance this is where u consider not doing this. Getting the battery away from the adhesive strips is a bear. The floss idea is a joke.

james licata - Antwort

Battery removal with adhesive stuck under the battery using floss personal record was around 10 minutes.

Tri Vuong - Antwort

using fishing line worked well for me. the wire was cutting into the battery pack and dental floss would not work.

Jeremy Thiriot - Antwort

I too found that fishing line, specifically 10 lb test Fireline braid fishing line, is an excellent alternative to floss or wire due to its strength and small diameter. I tied washers on each end using a Palomar note to provide a secure grip.

Patrick Langvardt - Antwort

  • Nimm den Akku aus dem iPhone.

    • Sollte dein Ersatzakku in einer Plastikhülle geliefert werden, entferne zuerst die Plastikhülle vom Akku, indem du die Hülle vom Flachbandkabel abziehst, und setze erst dann den Akku ein.

    • Wenn du deinen neuen Akku installierst folge dieser Anleitung, um die Klebestreifen korrekt anzubringen.

    • Führe nach dem Austausch einen Hard Reset durch. Dies verhindert einige Probleme und vereinfacht die möglicherweise dennoch anfallende Fehlersuche.

This was very helpful


I got the battery out but what if it the battery bends a bit????

babyuk76 - Antwort

A bit of bending is probably fine as long as you are planning to replace the battery. Don't try to reuse a bent battery. In any case, try not to bend it any more than necessary, as bending increases the risk of fire.

Jeff Suovanen -

I need a little help... I've been through your tutorial and success... all gone smoothly.

But.... I've had it on charge for 25 minutes... no charging symbol, no life at all... how long does a new battery take to charge before you notice any life?????

joehopkin2016 - Antwort

It can take a little while. If it doesn't power on after a little more time has gone by, open your phone back up and double-check your cable connectors. If that doesn't work, try plugging in your old battery to see if it behaves the same way. If you continue to have problems, drop a post in our Answers forum for more detailed troubleshooting. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Well, the screen removal step is completely unnecessary and cost me the functionality of my front facing camera. I would remove it from the guide altogether.

migue31096 - Antwort

There's no way I could have replaced the battery without removing the screen. It took a fair amount of wrangling to remove the battery.

Steve Allen -

It depends on your experience level. If you don't successfully remove both pull tabs, it's much easier to pry the battery out if the screen isn't connected. Most professionals probably leave the screen connected to save some time but we recommend beginners remove the screen to minimize the risk of damaging the display's ribbon cables.

Evan Noronha -

Got it working turned it off now it doesn't want to turn on!!

Juan Ramirez - Antwort

You should add a comment about the best way (environmentally) to dispose of this battery.

malowitzp - Antwort

You should add the final step of connecting the battery cable and finishing the install. I followed these steps and my phone is dead and no longer works, so not sure if I connected the battery cable incorrectly. It doesn't secure as tight as the original was, but there is no guidance in this guide on how to reinstall it. The youtube videos skip past the final steps too.

Jay - Antwort

@jaybytez Sorry you're having trouble! Installation for the most part is just the reverse of removal. There's a link in the final step and the conclusion for how to install new adhesive strips and stick the battery down. To reconnect the battery to the logic board, just position the connector over its socket and press gently until it clicks into place. Same goes for all the other connectors. I'd suggest going through the guide a second time and checking your work carefully. If you're not sure whether the battery is connecting correctly, try the old battery again for comparison. If you continue to have trouble, reach out to our customer support team or try posting your issue in the Answers forum. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

("Never" part 1 of 4)

If you are only directly interested in the current instructional steps for iPhone 6 battery replacement, please know that this 4-part comment simply upvotes/supports Jay's post above.     (4-parts needed as ran up against the character limit for this box.)

This is a commentary on this specific guide, yes, but it really applies to all guides I've read so far on iFixit, so I am not critiquing the author per se. This turned into a global recommendation for possible improvement in the fundamental approach that iFixit takes in writing ALL of the guides.

I agree with Jay 100% and I think the iFixit community would benefit tremendously if this suggestion were taken more seriously, namely that reassembly should be addressed as a separate instruction. Here is my further claim:

Reassembly is NEVER simply following disassembly instructions in reverse order.

It is never “just the reverse of removal.”


Paul -

("Never" part 2 of 4)

If you tend to disagree with my statement, simply try dragging the included YouTube video in reverse. Then try to follow that along while reassembling your phone. As just one example, see if you have great success reconnecting the battery connector to the logic board using the opening tool in the same manner as you used it during disassembly. Heck, try using the opening tool in a different manner if you like, but go ahead and reattach the connector using the opening tool. It is even called an “opening” tool - the very name of the tool shows you that it would NOT be included in a reversal of the instructions. That would require a “closing” tool. In this case, the “closing” tool is actually wisely recommended to be our fingers, applying gentle pressure, and in one case (I believe it was for the display connector) even pressing on the connector in a very particular manner (not much in the middle).


Paul -

("Never" part 3 of 4)

If you still question my claim that reassembly is never simply following disassembly instructions in reverse, it might be a very interesting exercise to record yourself actually reassembling the item (you already have the cameras present and rolling anyway, why not for a little while longer?). If you did that, and watched the assembly video side by side with the disassembly, you will quickly see all the many differences there are. I imagine that would be all it would take to convince "the powers that be" at iFixit that it would be a very good recommendation to authors that they complete the full round trip. Alternately, as I said, you could simply watch any of the current videos in reverse while actually performing reassembly, and could then at least add notes to existing content regarding the differences (as was done with the display connector NOTE found in this article above - I thought that was a really nice touch, BTW).


Paul -

("Never" part 4 of 4)

In closing, I really, really like iFixit, so I hope this recommendation is helpful and I hope it is received as such, as constructive criticism. Just trying to make iFixit even better, on its way to becoming an indispensable resource to all.  :-)

(End of "Never" comment)

Paul -

@spacemanspiff2 As you seem to have noticed, there are reassembly bullets sprinkled throughout each guide specifically to mark the areas where additional instructions are provided for reassembly. Hence the qualifier, “Installation for the most part is just the reverse of removal.” When it’s not, reassembly tips are added to the appropriate step. In those cases where more is needed, you’ll find reassembly steps or even a full-blown reassembly guide.

Jeff Suovanen -

Pre-bend the new battery connector cable! If doing this again I would make sure I had pre-bent the connector cable the same way as the original battery is bent. I did not and then once the new battery was glued down I could not get at it well to bend it properly. I had to wedge the extra cable in a bit and then the very small extra thickness left a small color distortion on the screen due to the additional pressure on the back of the display.

SC - Antwort

Es posible que al instalar una batería no original falle a continuación él detector de huella en un iPhone 6 ?

Jose Luis Arias - Antwort

Well, I disassembled my work phone after buying just the battery. Now I find out the battery doesn’t come with these adhesive strips. Too late, I need this phone. Nice.

Wesley French - Antwort

Hi Wesley!

I’m sorry to hear about the trouble. If you ordered just the battery and not the Fix Kit option, then the adhesive strips are not included and are sold separately. This is mentioned on the product page. If you’re still in need, you can find them right here: iPhone 6/6s/7 Battery Adhesive Strips

However, the battery should still technically perform just fine for you without the adhesive strips, as these are primarily used to keep the battery structurally adhered to the inside of the phone. If you are mindful of how well you handle your device (ie: Don’t throw it across the room, or go running with it in your hand), you shouldn’t have too much to worry about. Otherwise, it would be best to replicate the way the batteries come in all iPhones and get yourself a set of adhesive strips.

Kadan Sharpe -

Yeah, the glue tab part is where this is not realistic to do yourself… mine tore off and now the battery is stuck in there, with no way to get it out and now voided. Your special tools are a joke.

David Roberts - Antwort

Assuming I get through this procedure, are we supposed to cycle the battery a certain way?

Mark Lynch - Antwort

Assemble in reverse needs update because I fix it now includes a screen gasket with no instruction. I’ve got a feeling I need to disconnect screen again in order to install it???

fm Haynie - Antwort

@docwild There is no screen gasket on the iPhone 6. If you’re working on an iPhone 6s, the instructions are here, and there’s a link in Step 21 with instructions for replacing the gasket.

Jeff Suovanen -

I agree with the comment about pre-bending the cable first. I didn’t look close enough at the original battery and it looked like the replacement battery had a completely different cable. Then I realized that the cable turned up 180 degrees and then bent over 90 degrees.

brian - Antwort

  • Entferne folgende Kreuzschlitz #00 Schrauben, die die obere Kabelhalterung befestigen:

    • Eine 2,9 mm Schraube

    • Eine 2,2 mm Schraube

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  • Entferne die obere Kabelhalterung aus dem iPhone.

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  • Entferne folgende vier Kreuzschlitz #00 Schrauben, die die Kontaktklammer befestigen:

    • Eine 1,5 mm Schraube

    • Eine 1,4 mm Schraube

    • Zwei 2,1 mm Schrauben

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Entferne die Kontaktklammer aus dem iPhone.

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  • Löse mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers das Kabel der Lautstärkeregler vom Anschluss.

    • Achte darauf, dass du nur das Kabel löst und nicht den Anschluss auf dem Logic Board, du könntest es sonst beschädigen.

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  • Entferne folgende drei Kreuzschlitz #00 Schrauben, die die Klammer des Lautstärkekabels befestigen:

    • Zwei 2,3 mm Schrauben

    • Eine 1,8 mm Schraube

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Ziehe die Sperrtaste und die Klammer der Lautstärkeregler vom Gehäuse weg, um an die Abdeckungen der Regler zu gelangen.

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  • Ziehe vom Ende des Steckers ausgehend das Kabel der Lautstärkeregler aus dem Gehäuse.

    • Sei vorsichtig, wenn du an den dünnen Teilen ziehst.

  • Entferne das Kabel der Lautstärkeregler aus dem Gehäuse.

After unscrewing the metal bar that holds the cable, I had a lot of trouble with separating those two parts. After ripping it out the metal bar, I've found out that the cable was soldered to the bar. I tried to fit the cable again and screwed the metal bar back in but the mute switch is loose now and its impossible to change/switch it. Did any of you encounter this? Any ideas for that? This part is quite important but skipped by the guide.

ivul - Antwort

Did you figure this out? I'm having the same problem with the mute switch being loose. It seems like it needs pressure on the top edge of the switch (ie. not the back of the switch where the metal bracket that screws into the phone casing, and not the front where the outer switch is). I can't figure out how to keep pressure on that top edge so the switch isn't loose.

Ed Varga -

I just did this repair. You have to use a soldering iron to melt the three plastic posts on the mute button. The posts need to be melted while you hold the mute button flush against the bracket with a pair of tweezers. Make sure the posts are melted all the way down to the bracket so it stays secure. Also, be sure not to allow the soldering iron tip touch the mute/volume flex cable. Cheers!

Eddie -

These instructions are not complete. The mute switch has to come apart which is not covered here and there are three plastic posts that have to go into the bracket. Disassembly of the flex needs to be covered in the final disassembly instructions. Also disassembly of the power buttons from the bracket should be covered in the instructions.

Bobby Gorden - Antwort

As stated above, the instructions seem lacking with regard to the mute switch and the volume control buttons. The comments above were very helpful and luckily for me I have a soldering iron. On the mute button, there were two very small metal brackets I lifted up to release the mute button. I used an exacto knife to cut the rear of the three plastic posts. This released the old cable from the mute button bracket. I then installed the new cable to the mute button bracket and melted the three posts with a soldering iron. For the volume control bracket, I pried the metal bar off the bracket. I agonized as to how to replace the new cable with the micro switches to the metal bracket. Soldering seemed risky as I did not want to damage the micro switches. Since I was also replacing the battery, I had new adhesive strips for the battery. I cut a small strip of double sided adhesive adhere the micro switches to the bracket, being careful to align the plastic posts. All is well so far.

Scott Wilson - Antwort

Please fix this post! The info about mute is very important.

nandogbr - Antwort

The comments were very helpful in understanding how to remove the bracket from the mute button and then re-fix it using the soldering iron to melt the three plastic posts. However it was not clear for me from the comments how to remove the small metal plate that is that glued to the volume switches. And also what is the right procedure to refix this plate to the new cable. Since my problem is only that the up volume button is not working I decided to reassemble the phone waiting this guy to be a little bit more clear about this two topics.

gsanse - Antwort

Does anyone know how to correctly attach the metal part with the colour to a new switch?

Tristan Bettesworth - Antwort

The complete cable, buttons and bracket assembly is available on Amazon for $9 as of January 13, 2018.

stvn chng - Antwort

  • Ziehe die Lautstärkeregler an der Metallleiste aus dem Gehäuse.

    • Die Buttons sind mit einer Klebedichtung am Gehäuse befestigt, sei vorsichtig, damit du die Membran nicht zerreißt.

The buttons have a tiny magnet in the back that pushes into the brackets to actually turn the volume up or down. Without these magnets, the buttons will not work. If the buttons do not click when you push them, you may be missing the magnet.

jaimeharo - Antwort


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hello guys, i have a problem with installing the frets to put in silent, I noticed that there are small springs to adhere well to the external key to the internal mechanism, only to replace it I loosened a bit, and now the clips and some smollato ... you as you have done? have you also found this problem? I hope you can help me.

Best regards

Gabriele Maiorca - Antwort

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