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Repariere deine Sachen

Recht auf Reparatur

Werkzeug & Ersatzteile

Einleitung

Folge den Schritten in dieser Anleitung, um das Logic Board in deinem iPhone 6s zu ersetzen.

Wichtig dabei: In jedem iPhone werden das Logic Board und der Touch ID Fingerabdrucksensor bei der Herstellung gepaart. Der Austausch des Logic Boards wird also auch die Touch ID deaktivieren – es sei denn du tauschst auch den Home Button durch einen neuen aus, der sauber mit dem neuen Logic Board verknüpft wurde.

Du kannst diese Anleitung auch verwenden, um die Logic Board Sticker für EMI-Abschirmung auszutauschen.

  1. Bevor du mit dem Ausbau beginnst, entlade den Akku auf unter 25%. Ein geladener Lithium-Ionen Akku kann Feuer fangen oder explodieren, wenn er aus Versehen beschädigt wird.
    • Bevor du mit dem Ausbau beginnst, entlade den Akku auf unter 25%. Ein geladener Lithium-Ionen Akku kann Feuer fangen oder explodieren, wenn er aus Versehen beschädigt wird.

    • Schalte das iPhone aus, bevor du mit der Demontage beginnst.

    • Entferne die beiden 3,4 mm P2 Pentalobe Schrauben an der Unterseite des iPhones neben dem Lightning-Anschluss.

    Hi, just got the repair kit that came with IPhone 6S battery. I felt that there’s no explanation on which tool to use to remove the two 3.4mm P2 Pentalobe screws. It’s not helpful just to say “Remove the two 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws on the bottom edge of the iPhone, next to the Lightning connector. “. It’s more important to explain how and what tool to use. The repair tool kit tools were not marked at all and it’s not right to assume that people know which tool or part to use. Please kindly address this issue. Thanks. Janet

    Janet Monaghen - Antwort

    @beingchen For the P2 pentalobe screws you should use the driver bit marked P2. Might be a little hard to see but it’s there, etched into the side of the bit.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    It’s very clear which tool you need. As it says these are “3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screws” - so you need a 3.4 mm P2 Pentalobe screwdriver…

    alexanderbrix1987 - Antwort

    Just a P2 driver—3.4 mm is the length of the screw.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    If you can’t identify which screwdriver in the kit to use, you probably shouldn’t be working on your phone. Just sayin’

    Keith Hockenbeck - Antwort

    Is it ok to replace the battery if the phone screen is broken?

    Reem - Antwort

    Of course! As long as the screen and battery are disconnected from the motherboard, you can replace anything!

    Charles Bejarano -

    is it possible to change my battery on my iphone 6s and use a battery that has been already used in another 6s

    morgan durnford - Antwort

    Yeah it would work, but if the battery heath on the 2nd battery is bad, just get a new one.

    Charles Bejarano -

    @moe6802 Removing the battery can damage it, and it shouldn’t be used afterward. It may seem fine, but even minor battery damage can lead to a fire hazard. Not worth it for such a cheap part. If you need a battery, just get a new one.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    How do you discharge a battery? Do you just let the battery drain or is there something less time consuming that you can do?

    Matthew Petts - Antwort

    There is no easy way to discharge the battery in “less time”. Perhaps the fastest way is to play a visually-complex modern game or otherwise make your phone do a lot of work.

    Lance J -

    So my phone screen is completely black causing me to see nothing that is on my screen. And the battery is above 25%, near 100%. What do I do??

    Jessica I - Antwort

    you should post a question on the answers forum

    Max Li -

    you should post a question on the answers forum

    Max Li - Antwort

    I can’t the screws with the P2, seems that the screws are stuck, what can i do?

    Alberto Jabiles - Antwort

    My kit came with 3 screws. Are those to replace these 2 P2 screws? And what’s the third one for?

    Daniel Morse - Antwort

    If it came with 3 screws, then it’s an extra one just in case if a replacement screw gets lost.

    Charles Bejarano -

    My display is cracked/broken and not functioning. The slide bar doesn’t work. How do I shut down my phone?

    Timothy Huss - Antwort

    i have replaced several ipod batteries and laptop work, but these screws seem to loose but do not come out. how am i to remove them.shake the iphone?it seems the ioen is not in my kit, is that how to remove them?

    this seems idiotic but i remember some other system magnets that firt make your screws easier to keep, but this might be changed….any video? this seems 1st step blues!!!!

    makinfilms - Antwort

    never ind ishook it… is that in the guide?….iopener is not in the kit……never was before is this an upsell? do i skip it? i dont have it

    makinfilms - Antwort

    The following info is not given until step 21 in the instructions, and probably too late at that.

    DO NOT disconnect or reconnect any of the cables in this device until the battery itself has been disconnected!

    Don’t skip that step, intending to do it at the end, as you may damage the phone.

    ffissk - Antwort

  2. Optional kannst du die Unterkante des iPhones mit einem iOpener oder einem Haarfön für etwa eine Minute etwas erwärmen.
    • Optional kannst du die Unterkante des iPhones mit einem iOpener oder einem Haarfön für etwa eine Minute etwas erwärmen.

    • Durch die Wärme wird der Klebstoff, mit dem das Displays befestigt ist, weicher und das Öffnen wird erleichtert.

    What about specifying the hot air temperature?

    Nicola Centrone - Antwort

    The glue softens pretty easily, so the exact temperature isn’t critical. Get it slightly too hot to touch. If you have trouble, heat it a little more and try again.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    What temperature on the screen separator lcd machine and for how long?

    Manraj Gulati - Antwort

    This is the first time I opened my 6s since it was purchased new four years ago. Even without heat, constant and firm works enough to be able to squeeze the flat edge of the spudger. From that point and without any additional pulling from the suction, twist the spudger gently to “walk” it open on both sides.

    Family Juinio - Antwort

    I used a hand towel folded in half and a clothes iron on the cotton setting (med-high heat, no steam). Placing the doubled towel between the phone and the iron, I would set the iron down for about 20 seconds (my iron has a timer that beeps when left horizontal for too long). Lift the iron, check the temperature (aiming for just too hot to touch), reposition as needed, repeat. It took me a while, but that’s because I took my time not knowing how fast this would heat. All-in-all, about 2 minutes to reach the right temperature to loosen the adhesive (it IS tenacious).

    Sarah Wruck - Antwort

    Holy. Redii eirhejbrd

    Andy Carson - Antwort

    just been given a 6s to repair, for this stage would a hot water bottle work ??

    Steven James - Antwort

    I heated a stone pestle in the air fryer, wrapped in a cloth.

    Ark - Antwort

  3. Das Öffnen des Displays vom 6s erfordert das Trennen eines dünnen Klebestreifens, der einmal außen am Gehäuse verläuft. Wenn du bevorzugst den Kleber zu ersetzen, bereite jetzt passende Klebestreifen vor. Es ist aber möglich, die Reparatur ohne Ersetzen des Klebers zu beenden, und wahrscheinlich merkst du keinen Unterschied in der Funktionalität.
    • Das Öffnen des Displays vom 6s erfordert das Trennen eines dünnen Klebestreifens, der einmal außen am Gehäuse verläuft. Wenn du bevorzugst den Kleber zu ersetzen, bereite jetzt passende Klebestreifen vor. Es ist aber möglich, die Reparatur ohne Ersetzen des Klebers zu beenden, und wahrscheinlich merkst du keinen Unterschied in der Funktionalität.

    • Wenn du keinen iSclack zur Verfügung hast, verwende einen Saugnapf, um das Front Panel anzuheben:

    • Presse den Saugnapf oberhalb des Home Buttons gegen das Display.

    • Wenn dein Display stark gesplittert ist, dann haftet der Saugheber vielleicht besser, wenn du die Scheibe mit durchsichtigem Paketband abdeckst. Du kannst anstelle des Saughebers auch sehr kräftiges Klebeband benutzen. Wenn das alles nicht hilft, dann klebe den Saugheber mit Sekundenkleber an der zerbrochenen Scheibe fest.

    Hello, I was wondering if there was a guide of how to replace the adhesive strips, thank you

    Pablo Reyes - Antwort

    The suction cup will not work if you have a shattered screen. I put a tip of an exacto knife between the glass and side frame above the power connector, carefully pried up then used the spluger to pry the rest of the way up.

    johnmurphyjr - Antwort

    Tape will work as well in order to create a smooth surface

    Nick Stine -

    Even tape didn’t work on my first shattered screen 6S disassembly. Had to reset to the exacto/thin blade technique.

    Peter Bovey - Antwort

    For me, it seemed like I only had one shot at the suction cup. It stuck on firmly the first time, but I noticed in the instructions that it was placed more on the side. I detached my suction cup and repositioned it and now it doesn’t stay (sucked) on. Hmmm.

    Frank Terence - Antwort

    Can you use the iSclack opener to open the iPhone 6s?

    Joe Koffee - Antwort

    The iSclack is helpful, although you have to use it a bit differently than you would on, say, a 5s or 6. The iSclack alone isn’t strong enough to pop the display open, because of all the adhesive around the perimeter of the 6s display. But you can use it to lift the display just enough to get a tool in there and start cutting the adhesive. Basically, the iSclack does the same job as the suction cup shown here, with maybe a bit less fuss.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My screen was SUPER shattered… the hair dryer did the trick. Patience it definitely the key… I tried putting tape over the glass but the suction cup wouldn’t stick to it at all but it stuck to the broken glass for a few seconds. I taped it up when I was finally able to move onto the next steps to keep the glass from getting everywhere then peeled it off for Step 10.

    Mandy Ng - Antwort

    Hi, it looks like, from reading the comments, that separating the display assembly from the phone is a tricky step.

    Would the piece of equipment, in the link below, be any use at this stage? Seems it could be used for all makes and models.

    Any info would be appreciated.

    https://youtu.be/8it4o9tx8tQ

    Michael - Antwort

    I have a screen protector on my phone. I was wondering if it was going to be problem for the suction cup.

    jeffreyleung2002 - Antwort

    I can only suggest to use a hair dryer to loosen up the adhesive underneath the display. Mine was stuck so hard it wouldn't barely move. After warming ist up I could softly pull ist up with way less power

    olonetzky - Antwort

    A question, has anyone had success removing a cracked (not shattered) screen? My phone has a single diagonal crack from the top right corner down to the left side. Will the suction cup still work?

    goblazers - Antwort

  4. Halte das iPhone mit einer Hand fest und ziehe am Saugnapf, um das Front Panel vom hinteren Gehäuse zu trennen. Nimm dir Zeit und übe konstante, starke Kraft auf den Saugnapf aus. Die Displayeinheit sitzt im Vergleich zu anderen Geräten sehr fest.
    • Halte das iPhone mit einer Hand fest und ziehe am Saugnapf, um das Front Panel vom hinteren Gehäuse zu trennen.

    • Nimm dir Zeit und übe konstante, starke Kraft auf den Saugnapf aus. Die Displayeinheit sitzt im Vergleich zu anderen Geräten sehr fest.

    • Wenn du zu stark ziehst, könnte die Display-Einheit beschädigt werden. Wende genau so viel Kraft auf, dass ein kleiner Spalt zwischen Rear Case und Display Einheit entsteht.

    • Wenn es immer noch schwer geht, dann erhitze die Vorderseite des iPhones mit einem iOpener, einem Haartrockner oder einem Heißluftgebläse, bis du sie kaum noch anfassen kannst. Dadurch wird der Kleber an den Displayrändern weich.

    No, really. Do this on a table and use less strength than you think. If you open the display the whole way at this step you can easily rip the home button connections and one of several display connections at the top. <— too much experience... :(

    chuymatt - Antwort

    Wow, that was tough. Patience, patience, patience. Did not use the iOpener, just firm and consistent pulling with the phone on a flat surface. When the suction cup comes off... clean the display surface and go back at it. I did use the pointed end of a spudger inserted into the headphone jack to hold down the bottom case whilst I pulled on the suction cup. Once there was sufficient room (see next step) you can just get the spudger (flat end) to slide in slightly.

    plisi - Antwort

    If you're lifting up on the glass, how are you supposed to hold the rest of the phone down? Is it by holding the camera end down with the side of your hand and rotating your hand, or using your other hand (not pictured) on the edges (seems very difficult), or using a spudger in a jack?

    Bryan - Antwort

    I got a fingernail on the metal edge and that did the trick.

    David Heinbach -

    On the 6s, which has an annoying black adhesive strip holding the display assembly on, I use the iSclack to loosen a very small area near the home button then insert a thin spudger and gently twist it a bit to release the adhesive. Do this around the bottom and both sides of the phone to release the screen. I usually have to break some of the adhesive strands when the opening is big enough.

    scentaur - Antwort

    My spudgers just too thick for initial insertion. In the end, fingernail on my thumb got me started, and I was able to get plastic picks in there to work it. The microwavable iOpener gel strip really helped.

    Heidi Moser - Antwort

    Thanks plisi, your comments are helpful. I had to apply pressure several different times. Didnt realize until about the seventh time applying pressure that what I was doing was slowly loosening the adhesive. Patience is truly the key with this step. You may not think you're progressing but it's slowly prying away.

    amylofton - Antwort

    What happens if the cup won't even stick to the display because it is cracked and it will not hold air near the bottom of the phone?

    Jaredrett - Antwort

    hey everyone, i just did my first iphone 6S display...after many 5, 5c, and 5s iphones...just keep trying and carefully insert the spunger where they said...right around the headphone jack. The black adhesive makes it very tough to get it off unless you work at one corner. Be careful...but you can do it! ;-)

    David Althaus - Antwort

    Use a razor, and go along the outside of the phone carevilly using the razor as a spudger. it will efficiently cut and weaken the adhesive while spudging the screen away from the frame. only takes 15 mins.... Use a workbench razor, not a flimsy one. If possible, use one where one side of the razor has a gaurd on it for better grip. Take it slow and try not to scratch the frame. Lots of pressure and patience is key!!!

    Goodluck!!

    -J

    Jaredrett - Antwort

    The first time you pull it apart there's black glue tape that you'll have to compete with to get it open. Be careful

    Jeff - Antwort

    Use a hairdryer about 2-3 inches from the phone on high heat for about a minute, moving the dryer the entire time. The phone opened for me in less than a minute after trying for several minutes without heating up the phone.

    Todd Leach - Antwort

    Careful ..delicate work. I also used a hot hair dryer around the perimeter for just a couple minutes to help loosen the adhesive bond. I then used my sadly short finger nail to help loosen the edge. I placed dental floss under the corner & carefully lifted the display very very slowly. This worked within about 3 minutes. As mentioned earlier the adhesive used in the iPhone 6s is very strong but this routine worked like a charm & was quick!

    Mary Blocher - Antwort

    Much easier to do using the Spudger that is provided in the Pro Tool Kit. It has a thinner fin type head. The Spudger provided in this repair kit is definitely too thick and makes it far more difficult.

    Tyler Brady - Antwort

    The spudger is too thick and the glue is too strong. Pulling up broke the glass below the power button. Now I am out $200 for a repair, plus a battery. Bummer. I am VERY good at repairing things. The adhesive on this is very very strong. The pentalobe tip that they send with the kits not milled well and I had to take a file and flatten the tip to get it to work - it is not finished well at all. I used the kit for the iPhone 6 for my Mom and had no problem. I am 51 and have been fixing things since I was very young.

    greghabiby - Antwort

    Well, I shattered my screen trying to do this. So now I need a battery and screen repair. Not happy.

    Carolann Parran - Antwort

    Me too! Be gentle!

    Matthew Simoenau -

    Me as well, I went very slowly, was working the spudger around the edge and then it shattered. Just going to buy a replacement phone and I was replacing the battery to gift this to my sister as a hand-me-down and now it’s not worth it. Perhaps I can sell the kit second hand…

    kpederso -

    Removing the display was the hardest part of the whole job. The adhesive is very strong, but just be patient. What I ended up doing was to use the suction cup, the flat end of the spudger, and an iFixit opening tool. I used the suction cup on the screen as directed. Then I placed the flat end of the spudger just a bit into the charging port and held down the phone body by the spudger on my work mat. I pulled up on the suction cup, pushed down on the spudger, and inserted the thin iFixit opening tool in the small seperation. I took my time and worked my way around all of the edges. After that it was really easy. I was able to reuse the adhesive, and my new battery install went just as planned.

    Eric Olson - Antwort

    Use a hair dryer as per the suggestions and this will definitely make the job easier and reducing the risk of breaking the display . Keep a steady pull of the display, don’t rush and it will start to show the small separation gap. An issue is that it will go back in place if you stop pulling before you can use the spudger tool. The suction tool that came with my repair kit did not have a ring on it as per the guide picture. It has a blue handle that is open on the side. I sat at my kitchen desk and opened a drawer. I hooked the open edge of the suction handle around the drawer side edge which me a third hand. I held the phone with one hand and pulled it away from the desk drawer. Once the separation started I could use my other hand with the flat edge of the spudger to complete the separation. Hope this helps.

    emaneht - Antwort

    Hair dryer - 1 minute until it’s hot like a fresh mug of coffee. Then as soon as you see the smallest gap, insert a razor blade above the phones jack, I needed to slide it towards the charge port and back. Once it slips in keep it there and use your spudger to enlarge the gap and slide it along the corners.

    Steve Esson - Antwort

    Yes, I used the tip of a sharp knife as a pry tool to get me started. Since the screen was cracked anyway I figured I had nothing to lose. It went fine.

    David Heinbach -

    Also tried it with the hair dryer - worked like a charm. 5 Minutes and the phone was open. The whole repair procedure took me about 45 minutes, and was ok. Re-assembling the three display-connectors has been a bit tricky, but with careful movements and taking the time it needs it was not a big problem. New display is very good, phone looks like new :-)

    Christian Woelk - Antwort

    My glass was broken and the suction cup wouldn’t hold on the tape. I used a very thin knife an slowly worked between the glass and the phone frame. Please keep in mind that my phone had been run over by a Ford F150, so I really had nothing to lose.

    Michael Cleveland - Antwort

    What is unfortunately unclear is just how to 1. apply sufficient force and keeping the phone secure with only one hand, 2. whether this is best done on a table to use its opposing surface to secure the phone.

    The suction cup is a worthless tool because flexes too much to provide a good hold. Mine slipped and popped away three times. -The last time causing a crack in the screen.

    ffissk - Antwort

  5. Es befindet sich eine Kerbe an der Unterseite des Displays, genau über der Kopfhörer-Buchse. Hier solltest du mit dem Spudger ansetzen. Platziere den flachen Teil des Spudgers in der Lücke zwischen Display und Rückgehäuse, direkt über der Kopfhörer-Buchse.
    • Es befindet sich eine Kerbe an der Unterseite des Displays, genau über der Kopfhörer-Buchse. Hier solltest du mit dem Spudger ansetzen.

    • Platziere den flachen Teil des Spudgers in der Lücke zwischen Display und Rückgehäuse, direkt über der Kopfhörer-Buchse.

    WARNING: easy to stretch/ruin the adhesive

    As you proceed, know that you must keep ALL of the adhesive stuck to the phone. If any stays stuck to display, it can become permanently stretched as you are prying and lifting. Then you’ll need to buy the replacement adhesive, once it’s back in stock!

    Jason - Antwort

    If you’re opening the phone at all, you’re compromising the adhesive. There is absolutely no way to somehow open it perfectly so you can re-use it. Fortunately, it’s cheap and fairly easy to replace—and not even that critical on the 6s series anyway, since it’s not doing any real waterproofing.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I had a badly cracked screen. Packing tape helped the suction cup stick. Heating the phone helped soften the adhesive, and in the end I pried the screen up at the headphone jack with a sharp pointy knife. That helped me get the spudger underneath. Not recommended if the screen is ok, like for a battery replacement, but mine was cracked so I figured I had nothing to lose. Great guide.

    David Heinbach - Antwort

    There are two relatively delicate brackets that the two P2 Pentalobe screws screw into. They can be easily bent during this prying open process. I ruined one on my phone and I’m hoping the phone will function with just one bracket.

    dougdalglish - Antwort

    +1 on the pointy knife to get the screen pried up. I couldn’t get the suction cup or tape to adhere well enough due to the glass being so shattered. I heated it for quite a while with the hair dryer on high, got a very sharp knife tip under the glass where the “notch” is, and used that to pry upward while another person slid the end of the spudger into the gap I was holding open with the knife. This one step was basically a three-handed job.

    johnjustinirvine - Antwort

  6. Drehe den Spudger in eine hochkante Position, um die Lücke zwischen Display-Einheit und dem Rest des iPhones zu vergrößern. Drehe den Spudger in eine hochkante Position, um die Lücke zwischen Display-Einheit und dem Rest des iPhones zu vergrößern.
    • Drehe den Spudger in eine hochkante Position, um die Lücke zwischen Display-Einheit und dem Rest des iPhones zu vergrößern.

    No need to turn the spudger full 90°. Just turn it a little.

    Martin Born - Antwort

  7. Füge das flache Ende auf der linken Seite des iPhones ein, zwischen Display-Einheit und Rückgehäuse. Fahre mit dem Spudger auf der linken Seite in Richtung obere Hälfte des iPhones, um den Kleber zu trennen und die Klammern zu lösen.
    • Füge das flache Ende auf der linken Seite des iPhones ein, zwischen Display-Einheit und Rückgehäuse.

    • Fahre mit dem Spudger auf der linken Seite in Richtung obere Hälfte des iPhones, um den Kleber zu trennen und die Klammern zu lösen.

    I’ve found it very easy to open the phone with one of the blue opening picks.

    Just slide it along the left and right side of the display.

    Martin Born - Antwort

    Excellent idea. No matter which tool you use take your time so not to damage the display assembly further. Even a cracked screen is a great test tool or spare to use while doing other repairs when it still comes on.

    Bryan Solo -

    Do not go into the top left corner too far your screen will crack i learned the hard way

    Kevin - Antwort

    Your phone died

    Ipod Touchh0 - Antwort

    ok but where js the oart about puttung ut back together? mine diesnt snapinto place,……

    makinfilms - Antwort

    Use two spudgers.

    One placed in the original breech position to be used as a wedge.

    The other to get worked around the unit.

    These spudgers are going to get destroyed in the process and will not likely be great for another repair.

    ffissk - Antwort

  8. Entferne den Spudger und füge ihn erneut im unteren Teil des Gerätes ein, genau dort wo du mit dem Öffnen begonnen hast. Fahre mit dem Spudger in Richtung rechte  untere Ecke des iPhones.
    • Entferne den Spudger und füge ihn erneut im unteren Teil des Gerätes ein, genau dort wo du mit dem Öffnen begonnen hast.

    • Fahre mit dem Spudger in Richtung rechte untere Ecke des iPhones.

  9. Fahre mit dem Spudger weiter die rechte Seite hoch, löse dadurch den Kleber und die noch festsitzenden Klammern. Fahre mit dem Spudger weiter die rechte Seite hoch, löse dadurch den Kleber und die noch festsitzenden Klammern.
    • Fahre mit dem Spudger weiter die rechte Seite hoch, löse dadurch den Kleber und die noch festsitzenden Klammern.

    This is some important step here I reckon. I didn’t release the clips individually and gradually, so when I pulled, the two halves of the phone separated quite suddenly and the cables ripped in half. Had to order a screen.

    Neil Bass - Antwort

    How do I release the clips individually? Is there a good explanation?

    Dan Schwartz - Antwort

  10. Nutze den Saugnapf, um das Display zu öffnen, dadurch sollte auch der letzte festsitzende Kleber entfernt werden. Öffne das Display nicht weiter als 90°, da es immer noch durch drei Kabel mit dem Telefon verbunden ist.
    • Nutze den Saugnapf, um das Display zu öffnen, dadurch sollte auch der letzte festsitzende Kleber entfernt werden.

    • Öffne das Display nicht weiter als 90°, da es immer noch durch drei Kabel mit dem Telefon verbunden ist.

    Prop it up on something

    Nick Stine - Antwort

    an old iPhone box and a rubber band lightly around the display works great to hold it at 90

    Christa - Antwort

    You could use a clock weight with 2 socks wrapped around it and an elastic band to keep the screen at a 90 degree angle.

    AudiRo808 - Antwort

  11. Ziehe an der Kunststoff-Noppe, um die Vakuumversiegelung am Saugnapf zu lösen. Entferne dann den Saugnapf von der Displayeinheit. Ziehe an der Kunststoff-Noppe, um die Vakuumversiegelung am Saugnapf zu lösen. Entferne dann den Saugnapf von der Displayeinheit.
    • Ziehe an der Kunststoff-Noppe, um die Vakuumversiegelung am Saugnapf zu lösen. Entferne dann den Saugnapf von der Displayeinheit.

    Pulling up on the “nub” is a futile waste of time.

    ffissk - Antwort

  12. Öffne das iPhone, indem du das Home Button-Ende des Front Panels vom hinteren Gehäuse wegklappst und dabei die Oberkante des Mobiltelefons als Scharnier verwendest. Öffne das Display um ca. 90 Grad und lehne es gegen etwas, damit es abgestützt ist, während du am Gerät arbeitest. Befestige das Display mit einem Gummiband, während du arbeitest. Das verhindert ein ungewolltes Dehnen der Displaykabel.
    • Öffne das iPhone, indem du das Home Button-Ende des Front Panels vom hinteren Gehäuse wegklappst und dabei die Oberkante des Mobiltelefons als Scharnier verwendest.

    • Öffne das Display um ca. 90 Grad und lehne es gegen etwas, damit es abgestützt ist, während du am Gerät arbeitest.

    • Befestige das Display mit einem Gummiband, während du arbeitest. Das verhindert ein ungewolltes Dehnen der Displaykabel.

    • Zur Not hilft eine ungeöffnete Getränkedose.

    Smart idea :)

    x226 - Antwort

    on the third picture, the screen is opened more than 90 degrees.

    Mirza Zohaib - Antwort

    It said about 90 degrees

    Nick Stine -

    Actually it literally says, “Don't open the display more than 90º, as it is still connected at the top by three cables that may break if stretched.”

    David -

    In the second picture I was originally wondering what that diagonal piece of material was. Now that I've done a repair I can say that it's the sticky adhesive around the edge of the phone lifting up with the screen.

    jonl - Antwort

    Be careful when separating the halves not to pull off the black tape on the back of the screen half. Mine was stuck to the two halves and I thought it was double sided tape to holding the halves together. It was shredded in separating the 2 halves. It turns out it covers up some kindof of silver paste (purpose unknown) on the back of the screen so I cut a put a piece of plastic film to match it and taped it in place. We’ll see what happens…

    Jamey Gerlaugh - Antwort

    can of soup and rubber band did the trick.

    Big Al - Antwort

    this is bs as they do not tell you reverse how to snap the fuker back on…..putting it in back on!,!!! the guy asks for points for writing thus? why not make a video you dirk….and how to put it back on….what about the other adhesive?..? you moron it says mothing…anyone else have a link? oi could barely put the screws back in..

    takimg the fuker apart is easy….putting the $@$* together again? humpty dumpty!”!!!

    makinfilms - Antwort

    When replacing the screen, make sure to get the top (camera side) lip in first, then work downward along the sides, getting the edge with the home button in last.

    johnjustinirvine - Antwort

    • Entferne die beiden Kreuzschlitzschrauben von der Kabelabdeckung des Akkuanschlusses. Sie haben folgende Längen:

    • Eine 2,9 mm Schraube

    • Eine 2,2 mm Schraube

    • Achte bei der gesamten Reparatur darauf, dass deine Schrauben geordnet bleiben und sorge dafür, dass sie wieder genau an ihren ursprünglichen Platz zurück kommen, damit dein Smartphone nicht beschädigt wird

    In order to put the correct screw back where you took it out mark the head surface and a small dot beside the hole with a pen. Use coloured pens if you want the exact location for each screw/hole. This goes for steps 17, (23) and 29 too.

    lionno1 - Antwort

    Please! Please! Please! Invest in a Magnetic Project Mat or its equivalent from fixit. It will assist you with completing your repair.

    Ian Baldwin - Antwort

    I just taped down a 8.5 x 11 white piece of paper on my desk and drew a rough image of it, then ‘taped’ the screw I removed to the “image” on paper. It worked just fine. (My first time ever opening an iphone, so give it a shot!)

    italianchick99 - Antwort

    If you missed it from the beginning (like I did) it’s the #000 Philips for all screws except the Pentalobes.

    Max Cox - Antwort

    if you get a plastic ice cube tray, and a fine marker pen, text the sizes on each cube compartment as you follow the guide, also stops the screws getting lost

    Brendan Cranny - Antwort

    used sheet of A4 paper and bluetak - stick screw in bluetak, write location & size on paper

    Kev Salmon - Antwort

    mine is missing a screw!!! this is bs! this was mynmithers ohone nonone ooened it….one screw only…im liesed offf

    makinfilms - Antwort

    For some odd reason the screw “One 2.2 mm screw “ orange circled seems to be stuck and can not be unscrewed.

    Ahitagni Mandal - Antwort

  13. Entferne die Kabelabdeckung des Akkuanschlusses. Entferne die Kabelabdeckung des Akkuanschlusses.
    • Entferne die Kabelabdeckung des Akkuanschlusses.

    Little bit of adhesive holds this down- you do have to use the tiniest bit of force.

    Edward Coe - Antwort

    Pay careful attention to the orientation of this plate so that when it comes to re-installation you put it back the correct way. Sounds obvious but I’ve found it inverted in one customer’s phone, which led symptoms of charging failures and repeated spontaneous restarts.

    Jonathan Bradley - Antwort

  14. Heble den Akkustecker mit dem spitzen Ende eines Spudgers vorsichtig von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board. Heble den Akkustecker mit dem spitzen Ende eines Spudgers vorsichtig von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board. Heble den Akkustecker mit dem spitzen Ende eines Spudgers vorsichtig von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.
    • Heble den Akkustecker mit dem spitzen Ende eines Spudgers vorsichtig von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.

    Be sure not to skip this step. It is crucial. I have had many repairs where the screen will not light up after the repair if the battery had not been disconnected and reconnected.

    Andrew spoelstra - Antwort

    Thanks for the tip, Andrew.

    William Turner -

    It should also be mentioned, DO NOT USE A METAL SPUDGER. You could short the battery to other nearby metal parts. I've done that, the battery clip arced to the metal cover on some of the logic board chips, and my phone wouldn't power back on for 3 days. They should put a caution caption on this step. I've had this happen on a 5S as well.

    Frank - Antwort

    Thanks for the tip, Frank.

    William Turner -

    SERIOUS WARNING!: During *reassembly*, you should NOT reconnect the battery connector until the VERY LAST step (upon reassembly!), as many people, including myself, apparently have smoked (burned, destroyed) the main Logic board. This happens when you reconnect the LCD/digitizer assembly FPC cable. ifixit should modify this instruction to be very explicit about this!

    enoughstatic - Antwort

    It sounds like several people, including myself, had trouble charging the new replacement battery past about 10%. This ended up being due to the new battery not having a non-conductive insulator. The way to solve this is by adding a small piece of electrical tape to cover the battery connector before screwing in the battery connector bracket over it. You may want to do this on the first go-around.

    If you do experience that problem, I found the answer here and it worked perfectly: iPhone battery not charging after DIY battery replacement. Why?

    Heather Pastushok - Antwort

    Thanks to Heather Pastushok (and Behrang Mohajer at “iPhone battery not charging . . .) for this important detail. My iFixit battery came with a thin layer of black foam insulation on the top surface of the battery connector, but even gentle pressure from a blunt plastic tool (pushing the connector in place) scraped an exposed spot. A carefully trimmed piece of black electrician's tape provided peace of mind. The iPhone 6s is good as new with the battery now at 100%!

    Robert Dering - Antwort

    Thanks to Heather Pastushok (and Behrang Mohajer at “iPhone battery not charging . . .) for this important detail. My iFixit battery came with a thin layer of black foam insulation on the top surface of the battery connector, but even gentle pressure from a blunt plastic tool (pushing the connector in place) scraped an exposed spot. A carefully trimmed piece of black electrician's tape provided peace of mind. The iPhone 6s is good as new with the battery now at 100%!

    Robert Dering - Antwort

    To reduce risk of battery arcing , as soon as the old battery connector was detached, I wrapped it with insulation from connection all the way to the battery body. Did the same with the new battery to eliminate concerns about shorts while checking fit position to assure the connector would match up with the receiver. Only removed the insulation after all other connections had been restored, so plugging in the battery was the last step before closing the case.

    Robert Dering - Antwort

  15. Nintendo Switch Kits

    Eine schnelle Lösung, um wieder ins Spiel zu kommen

    Switch Kits kaufen

    Nintendo Switch Kits

    Eine schnelle Lösung, um wieder ins Spiel zu kommen

    Switch Kits kaufen
  16. Drücke den Akkustecker vom Logic Board weg, so dass es während der Reparatur nicht zu einer unbeabsichtigten Verbindung mit dem Anschluss kommt. Drücke den Akkustecker vom Logic Board weg, so dass es während der Reparatur nicht zu einer unbeabsichtigten Verbindung mit dem Anschluss kommt.
    • Drücke den Akkustecker vom Logic Board weg, so dass es während der Reparatur nicht zu einer unbeabsichtigten Verbindung mit dem Anschluss kommt.

    If you remove the grey bar with the word “TAPTIC” next, removal of the battery adhesive is much easier. It can be pulled straighter back with less chance of tearing. Here’s an image with the securing screws identified.

    If you securely anchor the screen to a can of soup, it is not necessary complete step 16 Front Panel Assembly. I was able to remove the two bottom (1.2 mm) screws and the 2.8 mm screw, but could not get the upper (1.2 mm) screw. I was able to remove the old battery with the Front Panel Assembly left in place.

    Edward Dziuk - Antwort

    Amazing tip Edward, I followed your tip exactly and agree to definitely remove the “TAPTIC”

    italianchick99 -

    Hi what it is called black cover between battery connector and sim card tray? Thanks

    Rajendra - Antwort

    How in the world does one reapply the edge adhesive without making a mess?

    gary - Antwort

    the new battery from ifixit came with a dented connector and wont connect to the logic board. What do I do?

    Adam Frederick - Antwort

  17. Entferne die folgenden vier Kreuzschlitz Schrauben, die  die Kabelhalterung befestigen:
    • Entferne die folgenden vier Kreuzschlitz Schrauben, die die Kabelhalterung befestigen:

    • Drei 1,2 mm Schrauben

    • Eine 2,8 mm Schraube

    Thank you for this great guide!

    I was able to skip removing the display assembly and logic board steps and lay the speaker upside down on the bottom edge of the logic board without putting undue pressure on the antenna cable making this a much easier and quicker repair for me. If you choose to leave the display assembly connected, I recommend using a rubber band to hold it to a box of similar size at a 90 degree angle to prevent damage and stress to the attached cables.

    So, the steps I skipped were Steps 16 through 34 and Steps 37 through 45.

    scentaur - Antwort

    The 1.2mm screw in the top left corner is refusing to come out, any help?

    Harry Allinson - Antwort

    I’m also having this issue now, what did you do to get the screw out?

    Belmin Husanovic -

    why does the battery fix kit not include the #00 bit needed to unscrew all 3 1.2mm screws?!?! !#^&@@ off.

    robertdjclark - Antwort

    Either a #00 or a #000 bit should work fine here. Some #0 bits will also work if the point is fine enough. Same goes for a lot of JIS bits. As long as it doesn't strip or slip, you're good.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    My kit's screwdriver failed about the time I got to the last few steps in this tutorial. I had a cheap precision set with a #000 bit but that refused to seat in the screws. I went to Home Depot, bought a lifetime guarantee Husky precision set with #0000 through #0 bits and that worked beautifully on every screw.

    David Shaddock - Antwort

    The screwdriver in my kit doesn't remove the bottom two screws! any reason why?

    anujfolsom - Antwort

    I actually followed all the guide but isn’t the front panel disassembly skippable? And if so what are the benefits of removing it? Cause i had quite a hard time putting back in the connectors of the 3 flex cables.

    GiovanniB - Antwort

    I have the 6s from Dubai. the top left screw is different with the rest. I am stuck on this screw. i am clue less why this top left + screw.

    Anyone have the same issue?

    Evander Lorenz - Antwort

    A precision screwdriver set is a wise investment for doing any of this work. I got a set from iFixit that is very well machined. Don’t expect the cheap drivers with kits to last more than one disassembly-assembly, if that! Also don’t keep mangled bits or drivers…throw them out!!!

    Peter Bovey - Antwort

    what crews  should I use in this step PH000. OR Y000 OR P2 Plz help me

    mshary alzhrany - Antwort

    The kit provided with the replacement Battery of iPhone 6s does not include the right bits to remove the three 1,2mm screws! I had to remove it without removing the display.

    Matthias Wagner - Antwort

    I too experienced a problem with the size of the screwdriver here (supplied in the iFixit kit.) My phone also had a 5th screw right in the center of the plate - another 1.2mm. I removed and replace it without problems.

    Scott Young - Antwort

    @scottvyoung Sounds like you’re working on an iPhone 6. These instructions are for the 6s.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    Screws are very small and very difficult to put back in!! Lost 2-3 screws

    Put phone back together and of course doesnt work Waste of Money!

    Thomas Kintigh - Antwort

    I purchased a “screw set” for an i-Phone 5 and have slowly been cannibalizing it whenever I lose a screw. It has been invaluable and the set includes enough screws that I have been able to cover all that have been dropped and lost for 3 i-Phones now. Using a magnetic mat has also limited my screw loss considerably! All of these items were purchased through IFIXIT at very reasonable cost. Thank you IFIXIT!

    Peter Bovey -

    The ifixit kit supplied screwdriver for the display cable bracket did NOT fit. (disappointing) So, I used scentar’s (comment above) method of a large rubber band wrapped around a book weighted kit box to hold it at 90 degrees. Leaving the screen attached and then removing and replacing the battery.

    laffinbuz - Antwort

    I had a problem reassembling the iPhone, my touchId wasn’t working any more even if the home button was working correctly. I don’t know why but loosening these 4 screw a bit made it work again. If I tight them again it doesn’t work. Maybe this can help someone.

    Alex Mufatti - Antwort

    @alexmufatti I had the same exact issue and luckily came across the same solution by trial and error. However a few weeks later Touch ID suddenly stopped working again and I think it’s the same issue. I was hoping somebody came across a more permanent solution.

    Michel Chemas -

    I was nervous not following this guide step-by-step, but as others mentioned I did not have the correct ‘bit’ size to remove the 3 screws circled in ‘red’ in the above diagram. I skipped steps 17, 18, 19 BUT used the ‘tip’ in step 11 to prop the front screen without removing the front display completely and I was still able to replace battery.

    italianchick99 - Antwort

    how to measure the screw? from the head or from under the head?

    Balieltello - Antwort

    I was unable to remove the display cable bracket. Therefore I was unable to remove the display, which meant I couldn’t replace the screen seal. ☹️ The small Phillips bit seemed too pointed so it couldn’t get into the screw deep enough to grip. The second Phillips bit was too big. It makes me wonder if I got the correct tool kit with my battery replacement kit.

    Mark Morris - Antwort

    unscrewed the top screw just above the “orange”  2.8 mm screw and it got away from me. Can anyone tell me the size of this screw, need to buy a new one

    Michael Quigley - Antwort

  18. Entferne die Abdeckung der Displaykabel. Entferne die Abdeckung der Displaykabel.
    • Entferne die Abdeckung der Displaykabel.

  19. Löse mit dem Spudger oder einem Fingernagel den Stecker des Frontkamerakabels von seinem Anschluss vom Logic Board, indem du es gerade nach oben hebelst. Löse mit dem Spudger oder einem Fingernagel den Stecker des Frontkamerakabels von seinem Anschluss vom Logic Board, indem du es gerade nach oben hebelst.
    • Löse mit dem Spudger oder einem Fingernagel den Stecker des Frontkamerakabels von seinem Anschluss vom Logic Board, indem du es gerade nach oben hebelst.

    Note carefully the order that they are removed.  My new display had them in the WRONG order and I spent about 2 minutes trying to figure out what was wrong until I compared the new screen with the old screen and saw that they were in wrong sequence.  Fortunately they were relatively easy to fold out of the way and put them in the right order.  After that they popped right into place.  The new cables don’t have the “fold” yet so display had to be held at 90 degrees until all three were installed and the cover reattached.

    David Rogers - Antwort

    I pop up these screen connectors using my fingernail. After doing a lot of repairs, this is the easiest and fastest way to get them loose.

    Kenneth Hilstan - Antwort

    pad under earspeaker is lost, where to buy?

    Balieltello - Antwort

  20. Löse den Stecker des Digitizerkabels vom Logic Board, indem du es gerade nach oben hebelst. Wenn du das Kabel wieder verbindest drücke nicht in der Mitte des Steckers. Drücke erst an einem Ende, dann am gegenüberliegenden. Beim Drücken in der Mitte des Kabels kann der Stecker verbiegen und beschädigt werden.
    • Löse den Stecker des Digitizerkabels vom Logic Board, indem du es gerade nach oben hebelst.

    • Wenn du das Kabel wieder verbindest drücke nicht in der Mitte des Steckers. Drücke erst an einem Ende, dann am gegenüberliegenden. Beim Drücken in der Mitte des Kabels kann der Stecker verbiegen und beschädigt werden.

    I can't seem to get the digitizer cable to snap back into place. Any suggestions?

    gbmazur - Antwort

    Yes--if you, like me, could not get the digitizer connector to seat, you've probably got confused on the reassembly order. I had to remove the EMI shield (seven screws), and reinstall it ON TOP of the big flap tongue that comes with the new digitizer, rearranging the order of the connector tails. Note that one of the connectors is a bit shorter than the other, and one of the receptacles on the iPhone is shorter as well. Make sure you're laying down the tails and connectors in the right order when you reassemble! The display data cable--sideways to the others, toward the outer edge, goes first. Then the longer connector, and finally the shorter one. When they're seated, they're seated, and you'll be sure of it.

    David Shaddock - Antwort

    Patience. I had trouble but after some time got it back in. Didn’t have to rearrange anything like above ^. Maybe the design was changed.

    Cbirdsey - Antwort

    I have no audio through the earpiece after completing the process. I have removed and reseated all cables several times. What’s wrong?

    Tobin Antpusat - Antwort

    Same problem…. any suggestions?

    Antonio Sacchet -

    My touch id does not work anymore after battery replacement. Can it be that its due to badly connected digitizer cable to connector? Everything else seems to work perfectly. Thanks

    cyp - Antwort

  21. Der Akku muss abgetrennt sein, bevor du das Kabel in diesem Schritt ablöst oder wieder verbindest Löse den Stecker des Displaydatenkabels aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board, indem du es gerade nach oben hebelst.
    • Der Akku muss abgetrennt sein, bevor du das Kabel in diesem Schritt ablöst oder wieder verbindest

    • Löse den Stecker des Displaydatenkabels aus seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board, indem du es gerade nach oben hebelst.

    I notice there are 3 flex cables, does this disassembly guide apply to the verizon version of iPhone 6s? I don't want to order the wrong digitizer screen for my new and improved iPhone that i somehow managed to crack the screen on.

    Bailey Duncan - Antwort

    There are four cables to disconnect here to complete this process, at least on my phone. The replacement screen also had 4, so no problem.

    Scott Young - Antwort

    I am having a hard time reattaching the LCD cable. Is it possible I bent the connectors? Or possibly the gaskets around it are interfering? I’d like to just pull all of that waterproofing gasket off! >:(

    Amanda Cooper (Doula) - Antwort

    Did you end up going this? My screen is black so I'm trying to figure out what i did

    Alex Tanner -

    I neglected to detach the battery before taking this step and upon reassembly I have no display. What might be my next step to repair.

    Dennis Gagomiros - Antwort

    You can try reseating the cables, but the likely answer is that your logic board’s backlight circuit is blown. If you power on your phone and you can see an image on the display by shining a bright light on it, your backlight circuit is toast. This is a common repair and very fixable, but requires microsoldering equipment and expertise. It’s not a DIY.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    I made the same mistake and I'm wondering if you got a fix for it? Is the damage done on the screen assembly or phone itself?

    goesprotocall -

    My screen replacement only comes with two flex cables but all of the videos are showing three. It is not working to connect the flex cables to the connectors

    cellabella1 - Antwort

    The third flex cable would be for the front-facing camera, sensors, etc. If you bought a display that doesn’t include those components, you’ll need to transfer them to your new display first, and then you’ll be able to install it and plug everything in. The instructions are over here. Good luck!

    Jeff Suovanen -

    The important warning about making sure that the battery is disconnected may be more beneficial at the BEGINNING of these instructions.

    ffissk - Antwort

  22. Entferne die Displayeinheit.

    If you're replacing the adhesive, be sure to check the two tabs on the display that receive the pentalobe screws before setting the display on the new adhesive. The tabs on my display were bent inward slightly—just out of reach of the pentalobe screws. I didn't bend these out before setting the display and was forced to re-open the display to adjust them, ruining my carefully placed adhesive.

    cdinger - Antwort

    There is no need to remove camera or the logic board if all you want to do is replace the lightning assembly. Leaving things in place will save you a number of steps. Proceed directly to Step 35 and save yourself all this work.

    Ira Goldman - Antwort

    Also read comments on step 37 as others have also pointed out that there is no need to pull logic board and you can skip those steps mentioned.

    Ira Goldman - Antwort

    Unless you are replacing the speaker you can skip to step 34 as there is no need to remove the logic board.

    Bryan Solo - Antwort

    My replacement display was not functional, but I didn’t test it until after my adhesive was already applied. Might be worth double-checking the replacement screen works before applying the adhesive at all. (though I’m glad I tried it before closing it up!)

    Ben - Antwort

    When reconnecting to the logic board, reverse the order, so display first, then digitizer and finally camera. The front pannel slides into small edge of the backchannel. So start at the top when you put front and back together.

    Joep Willemsen - Antwort

    be sure battery is disconnected before reassembling the display —in case you reconnected it to position battery

    Christa - Antwort

    If reapplying adhesive, I would strongly recommend that you wait until you are reassembling the phone. Otherwise, trust me, it gets really sticky and limits your mobility around the phone. I had it all over my fingers by the time I finally got the old battery out and the new one in.

    Justin Tilghman - Antwort

    Removing the battery was a challenge as the old adhesive snapped before it came out so I had to use a hair dryer to warm the adhesive before slowly peeling the battery off. I still manage to puncture the batter and nearly had a fire. When inserting the new battery I didn’t leave enough room for the connector to fit beside it so I had to pull it off, plug the connector into its port, then insert the battery. I think the instructions should warn you to leave enough room for the connector to tuck in beside it.

    The kit came with a new adhesive gasket but I could not find the instructions on how to install it. But after 45 minutes I had it done and my iPhone 6S is back in working order. Don’t forget to ‘hard’ reset the phone on start up, run the new battery all the way down. Otherwise this is a very good value time and money wise.

    Ramon Pabalan - Antwort

  23. Verwende das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um die Rückkamera aus ihrem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board zu lösen. Verwende das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um die Rückkamera aus ihrem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board zu lösen.
    • Verwende das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um die Rückkamera aus ihrem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board zu lösen.

  24. Entferne die beiden Kreuzschlitzschrauben über der Halterung der Rückkamera:
    • Entferne die beiden Kreuzschlitzschrauben über der Halterung der Rückkamera:

    • Eine 1,6 mm Schraube

    • Eine 2 mm Schraube

    Remember to place the nfc bracket under the camera bracket properly before attaching the 2.0mm screw.

    Mikołaj Podjacki - Antwort

    Thank you - well pointed out!

    Laurie MacDonald - Antwort

    Ditto - I almost overlooked it. Thank you!

    Frank Diaz - Antwort

  25. Entferne die Halterung der Kamera. Entferne die Halterung der Kamera.
    • Entferne die Halterung der Kamera.

  26. Führe einen Spudger zwischen dem Rückgehäuse und dem Kameramodul an der Seite der Kamera ein. Setze den Hebel vorsichtig an der Kamera an, um sie aus ihrem Gehäuse zu schubsen.
    • Führe einen Spudger zwischen dem Rückgehäuse und dem Kameramodul an der Seite der Kamera ein.

    • Setze den Hebel vorsichtig an der Kamera an, um sie aus ihrem Gehäuse zu schubsen.

  27. Entferne die Kamera. Entferne die Kamera.
    • Entferne die Kamera.

    There is one more step after this.

    You must remove some metal part before you push out the camera ring.

    Also must have new metal part because after you take out (metal part) cant back agin the same part.

    Sry for my english.

    Best regards

    It Step - Antwort

    When I did it, the metal part didn’t pop out and stayed in. I just lined it up with the screw hole as the metal part also had a hole. I assume it’s to bridge something. Hope this helps.

    spearson -

    Hi - after doing this I had a little part left over … eek.. part number 160-5Z and two little screws… can you help by tells my me where ive gone wrong please? Thank you

    Hayley graham - Antwort

    When I did it, the metal part didn’t pop out and stayed in. I just lined it up with the screw hole on the upper right side as the metal part also had a hole. I assume it’s to bridge something. Hope this helps.

    spearson -

    Faltaría el paso de retirar la parte metálica que se encuentra antes del vidrio del lente. Que método utiliza para retirarla?

    Nicolas Muller - Antwort

  28. Führe ein SIM-Kartenauswurf-Werkzeug oder eine Büroklammer in das kleine Loch im SIM-Kartenfach ein. Drücke, damit das Fach herauskommt.
    • Führe ein SIM-Kartenauswurf-Werkzeug oder eine Büroklammer in das kleine Loch im SIM-Kartenfach ein.

    • Drücke, damit das Fach herauskommt.

    • Du musst vielleicht ganz schön kräftig drücken.

    Anyone ever have the lever on these break? I’m in the process of removing logic board to remove a stuck SIM card

    aburningstariv - Antwort

  29. Entferne die SIM-Fach-Einheit aus dem iPhone.
    • Entferne die SIM-Fach-Einheit aus dem iPhone.

    • Wenn du die SIM-Karte wieder einsetzt, achte darauf, dass sie richtig zum Fach hin ausgerichtet ist.

  30. Entferne die zwei 2,3 mm Kreuzschlitz Schrauben, die die Abdeckung des oberen Komponentenkabels befestigen.
    • Entferne die zwei 2,3 mm Kreuzschlitz Schrauben, die die Abdeckung des oberen Komponentenkabels befestigen.

  31. Entferne die Abdeckung des oberen Komponentenkabels. Entferne die Abdeckung des oberen Komponentenkabels.
    • Entferne die Abdeckung des oberen Komponentenkabels.

  32. Entferne die folgenden fünf Kreuzschlitz Schrauben, die die obere linke Wlan-Antenne befestigen: Zwei 1,5 mm Schrauben
    • Entferne die folgenden fünf Kreuzschlitz Schrauben, die die obere linke Wlan-Antenne befestigen:

    • Zwei 1,5 mm Schrauben

    • Eine 2,3 mm Schraube

    • Eine 1,9 mm Schraube

    • Eine 2,0 mm Schraube

    When tightening the screws again, make sure the screw marked in green and yellow are tightened, it can cause distortions in Apple Pay and NFC functions

    Armin Hełmiński - Antwort

  33. Entferne die Wlan-Antenne oben links. Entferne die Wlan-Antenne oben links.
    • Entferne die Wlan-Antenne oben links.

    Step 32, 33 & 34 & their pictures show the middle case "One 1.9 mm Phillips screw" under the Wi-Fi antenna chip having been removed when it actually isn't removed until step 42. This made me think I had missed a step when I hadn't.

    blitzn - Antwort

  34. Verwende das flache Ende des Spudgers, um das Audiokabel von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board zu trennen. Verwende das flache Ende des Spudgers, um das Audiokabel von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board zu trennen.
    • Verwende das flache Ende des Spudgers, um das Audiokabel von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board zu trennen.

  35. Nutze das spitze Ende eines Spudgers, um das Antennenkabel von seinem Anschluss in der oberen rechten Ecke des Logic Boards zu lösen. Nutze das spitze Ende eines Spudgers, um das Antennenkabel von seinem Anschluss in der oberen rechten Ecke des Logic Boards zu lösen.
    • Nutze das spitze Ende eines Spudgers, um das Antennenkabel von seinem Anschluss in der oberen rechten Ecke des Logic Boards zu lösen.

    It is still recommended to disconnect the antenna in this step as it will allow some slack you may need but tugging or pulling on the antenna cable down at the speaker could still damage it so be patience. Also lift on the connection from the metal portion as lifting from the cable could cause it to snap.

    Bryan Solo - Antwort

  36. Nutze das spitze Ende eines Spudgers, um das Antennenkabel von seinem Anschluss in der unteren linken Ecke des Logic Boards zu lösen. Nutze das spitze Ende eines Spudgers, um das Antennenkabel von seinem Anschluss in der unteren linken Ecke des Logic Boards zu lösen.
    • Nutze das spitze Ende eines Spudgers, um das Antennenkabel von seinem Anschluss in der unteren linken Ecke des Logic Boards zu lösen.

    Be super careful here, pry the cable by the brass connector so as not to snap it off

    Andrew Truglia - Antwort

    During reassembly: be aware that the replacement antenna connector (the one that comes as part of the lightning port assembly) might be a very snug fit here. It probably took me close to 10 minutes to get mine on. Thankfully the little sucker is stronger than it looks, or else I would have smushed it flat multiple times. You’ll know that you finally have it when it lightly snaps in place.

    crimsontideaggie - Antwort

  37. Schiebe das flache Ende vom Spudger unter das Flachbandkabel vom Lightning Anschluss. Nun hebst du es an, um das Kabel von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board zu lösen. Schiebe das flache Ende vom Spudger unter das Flachbandkabel vom Lightning Anschluss. Nun hebst du es an, um das Kabel von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board zu lösen.
    • Schiebe das flache Ende vom Spudger unter das Flachbandkabel vom Lightning Anschluss. Nun hebst du es an, um das Kabel von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board zu lösen.

    Reassembly: A lot of adhesive held this cable down. Had difficulty getting this ribbon cable reconnected to the socket; it kept popping back up. I think the antenna cable was not exactly where it needed to be, and I had to mess with logic board a bit to make sure the antenna cable was wedged down where it needed to be.

    Heidi Moser - Antwort

    Unless you are replacing the speaker you may skip to step 46 as removal of the logic board is not necessary.

    Bryan Solo - Antwort

  38. Jetzt ziehe vorsichtig das Antennenkabel hoch, um es  von den zwei Clips an der rechten Seite des Logic Boards wegzuführen. Jetzt ziehe vorsichtig das Antennenkabel hoch, um es  von den zwei Clips an der rechten Seite des Logic Boards wegzuführen.
    • Jetzt ziehe vorsichtig das Antennenkabel hoch, um es von den zwei Clips an der rechten Seite des Logic Boards wegzuführen.

    nope, don't bother taking the logic board out if your just replacing the lightning connector. when removing the speaker in the steps after you can just fold it over to the side leaving it connected by the antenna. obviously not very professional but saves a very lot of messing with the 6s's stupid wee plastic clips, brackets and what not.

    waynemcguigan - Antwort

    Thanks friend!!

    Pedro -

    Wish I had read this comment earlier. Had a bear of a time reconnecting this antenna cable.

    Heidi Moser - Antwort

  39. Entferne die 1,3 mm Kreuzschlitz Schraube, die die NFC-Halterung am Logic Board befestigt.
    • Entferne die 1,3 mm Kreuzschlitz Schraube, die die NFC-Halterung am Logic Board befestigt.

  40. Entferne die NFC-Halterung. Entferne die NFC-Halterung.
    • Entferne die NFC-Halterung.

    Именно эта деталь отвечает за нормальную работу ApplePay, при возникновении ошибок часто является причиной, но не всегда.

    Matvey Sokolov - Antwort

    “This particular part is responsible for the normal operation of ApplePay, when errors occur it is often the cause, but not always.” Translated this comment into english because I found it very helpful and figured other english speakers would find it helpful to know as well.

    TitanTech Service Center - Antwort

    Does this also have to do with Airdrop?

    Richard Leknes - Antwort

  41. Entferne die folgenden zwei Kreuzschlitz Schrauben: Eine 2,5 mm Schraube an der Oberseite vom Logic Board
    • Entferne die folgenden zwei Kreuzschlitz Schrauben:

    • Eine 2,5 mm Schraube an der Oberseite vom Logic Board

    • Eine 1,4 mm Schraube im oberen Rand des Rückgehäuses

  42. Entferne den Kunststoff-Clip. Entferne den Kunststoff-Clip.
    • Entferne den Kunststoff-Clip.

  43. Entferne nun die letzten drei Schrauben, die das Logic Board im Rückgehäuse befestigen:
    • Entferne nun die letzten drei Schrauben, die das Logic Board im Rückgehäuse befestigen:

    • Eine 1,9 mm Kreuzschlitz Schraube

    • Eine 2,5 mm Sechskantschraube

    • Eine 1,8 mm Kreuzschlitz Schraube

    The tool to remove the hex standoff screw WASNT included in the recommended parts list. A hex driver bit WAS included; however the hex screw needs to be removed using a socket type bit. I removed it using the tweasers as pliers.

    mario cruz - Antwort

    You're right, we listed the wrong driver type. It's listed correctly now—the 2.5 mm nut driver is the tool you want.

    Jeff Suovanen -

    For some reason the 2.5 mm nut driver in my iFixIt tool set does not work. I think the nut is a bit too shallow (short) to fit into the driver itself

    ray - Antwort

    Hi Ray! If you think you have a faulty bit, please don’t hesitate to contact customer service, they’ll take care of you!

    Sam Goldheart -

    I found the same problem with the 2.5mm nut driver in my, non-iFixit, precision set. The nut is too shallow to engage with the hex socket because of the shape of the rounded edges at the mouth of the socket. Managed to overcome this by carefully re-engineering the socket with a diamond flat file ie filing it to remove the rounded edge and leave the hex opening flat and square. Worked perfectly after this.

    Laurie MacDonald - Antwort

    The funny thing is that for some reason the pentalobe bits seem to let the screw nut go out and screw back in.

    Ben -

  44. Schiebe ein Opening Pick (Plektron) unter die Unterkante des Logic Boards, zwischen Board und Lautsprecher. Verwende das Opening Pick, um das Logic Board vorsichtig aus dem Gehäuse zu heben. Jetzt kannst du das Logic Board entfernen.
    • Schiebe ein Opening Pick (Plektron) unter die Unterkante des Logic Boards, zwischen Board und Lautsprecher.

    • Verwende das Opening Pick, um das Logic Board vorsichtig aus dem Gehäuse zu heben.

    • Jetzt kannst du das Logic Board entfernen.

    On reassembly, be sure the audio control cable isABOVE the logic board when you place it.

    Cathy Sanford - Antwort

    Thank you for the detailed instructions. They were very easy to follow. Hope it works; fingers grossed.

    Frank Diaz - Antwort

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Evan Noronha

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So all the logic boards come with the components installs? Like the High band PAD, power amplifier avago, power amplifier Skyworks, power amplifier TriQuint, LTE modem Qualcomm, and lastly the Apps processor Apple SoC stacked on Elpida RAM. Here I thought you had to buy them.

I'm also assuming that some don't. I would like to know that alternative.

Royer Adames - Antwort

Does the logic board have the SSD on them or they else where in the iPhone?

tazzy - Antwort

Yup! The SSD is a flash memory chip hidden underneath an EMI shield on the logic board. You can see it in our teardown.

Evan Noronha -

Um, no, actually the NAND/ssd/flash/storage chip is the big Toshiba one in the middle, it’s the one next to the line of capacitors, and is not under the shields. there are shields on either side of it. Look at the teardown page you linked to yourself and you will confirm what I’ve said.

Sam the Techman -

great guide worked perfectly, had some minor water damaged internals with a completely good logic board, replaced it in a 16g pos basically have a brand new 128g 6s

miniperf93 - Antwort

Thank you Evan for taking the time to make this guide

Jeff Moore - Antwort

Great instruction. The only thing I had a problem with on my 6s motherboard removal was not knowing how to remove one end of the single black wire that rides along the left edge for about 4 inches (when viewed with the screen upside down and with bottom down. I ended up severing the wire at the bare junction about half way of the wire length. Hope that it is not a coaxial cable!

Richard Lukso - Antwort

Great instruction set.

Richard Lukso - Antwort

v

Great instruction. The only thing I had a problem with on my 6s motherboard removal was not knowing how to remove one end of the single black wire that rides along the left edge for about 4 inches (when viewed with the screen upside down and with bottom down. I ended up severing the wire at the bare junction about half way of the wire length. Hope that it is not a coaxial cable!

Richard Lukso - 2 minutes ago

Richard Lukso - Antwort

I just cut, soldered, and added shrink tubing, and 3G signal strength is 3-4 dots, after reinstall. I don't believe it is a coax...

James Schumacher - Antwort

Hello guys

My iphone is locked with activation lock and I forget my I'd password so what I have to do

Like if I change motherboard then this problem can be solved or not

Reply me at - py12347@gmail.com

py12347 - Antwort

if my 6s logic board is water damaged, would replacing this make it work again? i still have my original home button and everything, i know apple pairs the logic board with the home button for touch id security purposes. so will i still be able to use my apple/touch id if the logic board is different?

Radu - Antwort

If your logic board has water damage, it's not necessarily gone forever. For relatively minor water damage, give this guide a try. If that doesn't do the trick, a professional repair tech with an ultrasonic cleaner and board-level repair skills can probably still bring it back to life. If you do end up replacing the logic board, then yes, you will lose Touch ID functions unless you also purchase and install the home button that was originally paired to the new logic board. Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

Hi, I know nothing of phones or repair, but am trying to find out if I can recover the data on my iphone 6s. It hasn't been opened yet but due to the nature of the "bend" in the phone, a "tech" felt the motherboard was likely cracked (he didn't open it, just decided this based on that bend the fact it won't power on/ charge, though it was charged before it got bent). I would love to save my iPhone, but I'm most concerned about the pictures and texts that I have on this phone. Anyone have any suggestions? I would be afraid of replacing it outright if that data is stored there. I couldn't afford to replace the phone with another iphone right now, so when I plug back in it will be with a cheaper Android. Thanks!

Jamie Spray - Antwort

Great instruction set. Thank you Evan for taking the time to make this guide

amigoclubs - Antwort

Thank you Evan for taking the time to make this guide

Best Regards

Amigo

amigoclubs - Antwort

Hi! this is a helpful turtorial. but where can I buy the logic board? and do different countries have differrent logic board? like is there any difference in an US iphone 6s logic board and an European one?

zubajrat - Antwort

hi my ip6s was screen damage but when i go for repair the home button is not functioning. May i know what is the reason of home button is not functioning? have to change board for that? Thank you

fatimah - Antwort

Where may I purchase a new logic board for an iPhone 6s? When replacing the Logic Board, is it required to replaced the home button as well?

Lambo Thach - Antwort

So I was trying to replace my screen so I turned it off and followed a video online. While i was trying to plug in the display cable, it conducted electricity and it produced smoke. It seems like I burned parts of the display cable socket. Is there an easy fix for replacing this or would I need to buy a whole new logic board with everything included? My phone still seems to turn on and I can feel the vibration from the ring/silent switch.

Daniel - Antwort

@dank_00 This happens when you short the pins on the display cable socket while leaving the battery connected. The little puff of smoke was your backlight filter getting fried. (For future reference, on any mobile electronics repair, you should always disconnect the battery before you start and don’t reconnect it until you’re done.) You don’t need a new logic board, as this is a pretty straightforward repair for a shop with the right skill and equipment. But it isn’t a DIY. You’ll need to find someone who does board-level repairs (a.k.a. microsoldering). Good luck!

Jeff Suovanen -

My iPhone 6s is locked with a “lost iPhone” screen . Will replacing the motherboard make it go away ?

Coral - Antwort

Hii icloud lock khul jayega yes or no

Manish Gupta - Antwort

If motherboard having RAM??

rsai666 - Antwort

I ended up with a similar board malfunction on my behalf. My goal was to unscrew the logic board and test it with a new battery since the battery it came with is stuck to the logic board I thought gee, its easier to remove the logic board, I didn’t do it on a ESD surface it was on my bed. and when I connected to logic board to a working battery I forgot to reconnect the power button connector sleep/wake button. I only connected the battery D.C. connector. I’m afraid that I did something really bad to the LB, the smoke came from the front of the logic board under the top metal heat shield cover plate. Not the bottom of mother board with sticky heat shield stickers. There was no sign of water damage, I should’ve took a picture of the mother board before I worked on it to have a record of working components from the before and after the smoke appeared. Did I mess up because I failed to connect the power, sleep/wake button connector to the mother board after I had connected the battery D.C. connector to board?

Holmes - Antwort

Is there a reason why iFixit mainly says in the iphone 6s tutorial, “for LB repair to follow steps in revers at the end of each tutorial?”

Holmes - Antwort

Hello sir I'm buy a new logic board iPhone 6s 32GB so this board fully software loaded ef u know please reply me ??

mahendarsinghrawatrawat - Antwort

So when I replace logic board do I need to go and redo setup for icoud what about my sim card will it just work or I have to tell t-mobile something?

Alex - Antwort

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