Einleitung
Mit dieser Anleitung und einem neuen Akku kannst du deinem iPhone 7 Plus neues Leben einhauchen. Wenn dein Akku aufgebläht ist, musst du entsprechende Vorsichtsmaßnahmen treffen.
Diese Anleitung beinhaltet den Ausbau der Displayeinheit, um Schäden an den Displaykabeln zu verhindern. Wenn du dich sicher genug fühlst, um den Akku zu entfernen, ohne die Displaykabel dabei übermäßig zu belasten, kannst du die entsprechenden Schritte überspringen.
Für eine optimale Leistung sollte der neu eingebaute Akku nach Abschluss der Reparatur kalibriert werden: Lade ihn auf 100% auf, und lasse ihn mindesten zwei weitere Stunden laden. Benutze dann dein iPhone bis es sich aufgrund eines leeren Akkus ausschaltet. Lade den Akku dann erneut ohne Unterbrechung auf 100% auf.
Werkzeuge
Einführungsvideo
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Schalte das iPhone aus, bevor du es auseinandernimmst.
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Entferne die zwei 3,4 mm Pentalobe Schrauben an der Unterseite des iPhones.
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Lege einen heißen iOpener eine Minute lang auf die untere Kante des iPhones oder benutze einen Haartrockner, um den Kleber darunter weich zu machen.
How long should I use a hairdryer for?
I used it until it was hot to the touch but not too hot where you burn yourself.
gczarny -
Hey, I just took apart my first iPhone 7 plus today, and it was easier for me to use guitar picks and a magic glass tool. I did tear the home flex on the screen—now I know to be more careful of that on disassembly—-~Katrina of iPad Rehab Microsoldering
Get a T-shirt add heat to a lil corner of it, with either a hair straighter or an Iron , touch the T-shirt if it’s seems hot but doesn’t burn u hold that lil hot piece of T-shirt against the edge ur trying to pry open , if it’s still not opening add a I’ll more heat,
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Setze einen Saugnapf auf die untere Hälfte des Displays, knapp über dem Home-Button.
Hi! My suction cup doesn’t work. It won’t strongly suck on my screen. Does anyone have any advice?
Heat it up just a little with a hair dryer make sure it’s flat , let it coo a bit now try it??
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Ziehe den Saugnapf mit festem und konstantem Druck nach oben, bis sich eine kleine Lücke zwischen der Displayeinheit und dem Rückgehäuse bildet.
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Führe die flache Seite eines Spudgers in diese Lücke ein.
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Drehe den Spudger, während du den Saugnapf weiter nach oben ziehst, um die Lücke zwischen Display und Rückgehäuse zu vergrößern.
Be very careful not to pull up with too much force. My screen just shattered while I was pulling up with my suction cup. (There were no previous cracks or chips or anything).
I’m stuck on this part. I’ve heated the bottom up and attached the suction cup right above the home button, but I can’t pull it apart. I feel like I’m going to break the glass display. Tips?
Someone mentioned above, using strong tape helps .
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Führe die flache Seite des Spudgers zwischen dem Front Panel und dem Rückgehäuse an die untere linke Ecke des iPhone.
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Ziehe das Werkzeug von der unteren Ecke die linke Seite hinauf zu den Lautstärketasten und dem Stumm-Schalter und löse so den Kleber, der das Display hält.
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Entferne das Werkzeug von der linken Seite des iPhones und setze das flache Ende in die Ecke rechts unten ein.
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Ziehe die flache Seite des Werkzeugs entlang der rechten Seite nach oben, um den Klebestreifen zu lösen, der das Display fixiert.
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Fahre mit einem Opening Pick unter dem Display am oberen Rand des iPhones entlang, um den restlichen Klebstoff zu lösen.
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Ziehe die Displayeinheit etwas von der oberen Kante des Telefons weg, um die Clips zu lösen, die sie am Rückgehäuse halten.
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Öffne das iPhone, indem du das Display von der linken Seite her aufklappst, wie die Rückseite eines Buches.
So if I broke the cable that connects the display to the logic board. What replacement part would I need to order now?
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Entferne die folgenden Dreipunkt Y000-Schrauben, die die Blende des unteren Displaykabels am Logic Board fixieren:
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Drei 1,2mm Schrauben
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Eine 2,6mm Schraube
Is it really safe to lay the device fully open like a book? The cable leading to the LCD gets stretched across the sharp edge of the aluminum edge of the back cover.
Generally I'd say no, it's not safe. In reality I've seen a bit of variance in the cable length, and sometimes it'll be fine—but mostly I'd be prepared to prop the display up or hold it in place at a slight angle so it doesn't put too much stress on the cables. On prior iPhones it was easy to rubberband the display to a box or a can of soda, and something like that would probably work well here too. Use your own judgment.
You could stick the suction cup back on, near the right side of the phone, with the blue hook oriented in such a way that it becomes a stand for the screen. That way it won’t open much more than 90 degrees, and leaves both your hands free.
Mark -
The tri wing screws are so hard to remove. What's the trick?
I cannot remove one of the corner screws in this step and i have used the tweezers and the y000 tri tip and i am afraid that it is stripping it. is there a work around for this step?
@katmonday1 No workaround unfortunately. Make sure the driver tip is in good condition and fits the screw correctly. Seat it in the screw, hold the driver perfectly vertical, press down hard (and maintain it), and turn. It’ll come out. If it’s really stripped you’ll have to get more aggressive—try one or more of the techniques in this guide or get some help. Good luck!
A tip to remember which screw is which as the differences are pretty tiny: I used different colored sharpie fine-points and made a mark on the top of the screws before removing. I thought about having strips of tape that I stuck similar sizes to, but the coloring seemed to work more easily. I only did this for step 11 and it saved me down the road when trying to differentiate the 1.2 and the 1.3mm screws!
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Entferne die Blende des unteren Displaykabels.
I am confused, please help. LOL the bracket, the very first one being removed. I see it has three screws the same size and one a different size? I've been trying to fix my daughter's phone and ordered a 0.6 mm Tri Wing screwdriver for iPhone 7 plus /Apple watch. It seems to fit the screws and it seems to be turning them although I can't see that well but they're not coming out. However when I used it on a smaller bracket with two screws they came right out so I'm thinking I don't have the right screwdriver I am at my Wit's End!! I have been working on this phone or attempting to for a while now. I cannot find a list anywhere of the exact size screwdrivers needed to Take apart an iPhone 7 plus. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
If your tri-wing screwdriver worked for other tri-point screws in the phone, then it should work for the screws you are struggling with! If it feels like the screws are spinning but not coming out, try to use tweezers to pull them out. I often struggle with tri-point screws, and need to apply some downward pressure to remove them. This can be risky though, as you do not want to strip the screw or damage components underneath the bracket. If you continue to struggle, you can give this driver and this bit a try.
Also be aware that the battery connector might stick to the bottom of the steel bracket. This part had me a bit puzzled at first. lol
Just gently pry the connector off the steel bracket to release it and be sure the connector isn’t allowed to accidentally reconnect to the board.
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Mit der Spitze eines Spudgers kannst du den Batterieanschluss aus seinem Stecker auf dem Logic Board heben.
on reassembly, make sure that the connector cable is back in place, along side the battery, and not up, or on top in any way.
I slipped a small piece of paper under the flap.
After this step it is worth jumping to step 36 and disconnecting the lighting connector assembly (indicated with the orange rectangle) and connecting the new cable to test it out. After attaching the new lightning connector assembly, reattach the battery, and try plugging it in to see if the new assembly works correctly. If it does, then power down the phone, disconnect the battery, and disconnect the new lightning connector assembly. Then continue. If it doesn’t work, this check will save you a couple of hours of work.
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Nutze das flache Ende eines Sprudgers oder einen Fingernagel, um die beiden unteren Displaystecker aus ihren Buchsen auf dem Logic Board zu hebeln.
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Wenn du nach dem Zusammenbau kein Bild hast, das Display nur weiße Zeilen zeigt oder die Touchfunktion teilweise oder ganz ausgefallen ist, dann löse noch einmal diese beiden Kabel und verbinde sie neu. Achte darauf, dass sie gut sitzen.
What can happen if the battery is not disconnected before the two lower display connectors?
Hello, by my expierence and what i have learned iphone repair videos you can ‘blow up’ capacitors which one in logic board, screen is sensetive with voltages and etc….
When I removed the lower display cable bracket in step 12, the top connector stuck to the bracket and became disconnected.
My replacement screen wouldn't sit in the display connector properly, (wouldn't clip in both sides at same time) so I made sure it sat on one and it was lined up and got a thin piece of dense sponge and placed that over the connector, then proceeded to install the connector shield and screen works perfectly fine without a hitch. Very good tutorial just earnt me £25 lol
have the same issue, sometimes it doesn’t sit on the left side, other time not on the other, the difference is iphone not starting at all or looping with apple logo reboot…
ibisiki -
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Entferne die drei Dreipunkt Y000 Schrauben, mit denen die Abdeckung über der Buchse für den Sensor des Front Panels befestigt ist.
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Eine 1,3mm Schraube
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Zwei 1,0mm Schraube
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Entferne die Abdeckung.
Posted a comment above on the first step. The screwdriver that I ordered Works taking out these two screens shown in the picture. However it does not work on the first bracket that needs to be removed. It seems that all screw sizes are somewhat different but I'm not finding a list showing different screwdriver sizes needed. Does this make sense? Could anybody please give me some advice on this thank you much.
What happens if you break “tear in half” the black tape stuff?
Unfortunately if you tear the black cable you will need to replace it !!!
Chris West the screwdriver that probably came with the kit was pentalobe to get the first two screws out to open the case. you need a .6mm Y tip driver for internal. its deceptively Phillips looking but is not it only has three blades in a Y, not 4 in a +
Hello is it if I put wrong screw can damage the board?
Care should be taken while removing the last 1.0mm screw, on the far right in the picture. This screw is screwed into another screw (or standoff) beneath the bracket. This standoff may come unscrewed and upon removing the bracket you may find the screw and standoff are still attached to the bracket. Do not lose this part if you decide to separate them , the standoff is not a normal phillips, and may require a special driver to reinstall. I used the phillips to start it back in, and relied on the screw to tighten it upon reassembly.
I know this is late bit a trick I use to put the standoffs in (had to do 2 cause someone lost the screws I was replacing) is to take the screw that goes in it srew them together loosely to give it a fake phillips head then gently screw both into the spot the standoff goes in. you can then take the phillips out (may need to put a spudger between the screw and standoff to keep the standoff down then use a tiny flathead to gently tighten the standoff down. its a few steps but makes life easier if you need to replace it quickly.
I was able to remove the first 1.0 mm three tri-point Y000 screw from the bracket but I cannot for the life of me get the other 1.0 mm screw undone or the one 1.3 mm screw undone. Any tips?
I tried pressing down a bit harder and I even put the first screw back in to see if it helped me loosen the other two but it did not work.
My screwdriver was doing the job up until this point, and I’m worried I’ll strip the screw if I keep trying.
Would appreciate any advice!
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Ziehe den Stecker der Front Panel Sensoreinheit aus der entsprechenden Buchse auf dem Logic Board.
Make sure that the orientation of the cable when you attach is correct! See the picture for the correct orientation. If it gets installed 180 degrees out(i.e., the ribbon goes up instead of down, then the earphone, front camera, and Home button will be inoperative. Ask me how I know!?! Worked great when installed correctly!
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Entferne die Displayeinheit.
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Unterbruch hier, wenn du beim Zusammenbau den Klebstoff um die Kanten des Displays ersetzen willst.
When removing the old adhesive from the edges, duct tape can be useful. Simply use small strips of duct tape and your spudger to press the tape’s adhesive side carefully into the edges of the phone’s display and slowly peel the duct tape away from the display. The duct tape should pick up the remaining adhesive and carry it away from the edges. use the tip of the spudger to gently scrape away any remaining dirt or film from the crease around the edge and repeat the action with a new strip of tape to pick up any dirt, adhesive or grime from the surface. This should save considerable time.
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Entferne die folgenden beiden Kreuzschlitzschrauben, die die barometrische Entlüftung am hinteren Gehäuse sichern:
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Eine 2,9mm Schraube
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Eine 2,1mm Schraube
I skipped this step and go straight to step 25. I skipped it because I couldn’t get the screws to come off. But skipping those step did not prevent me or has any detrimental effects on performing step 25.
I agree, I don’t see any reason to remove the Taptic engine to remove the battery…It seems like more of a chance of screwing something else up…keep it simple…
If you’re replacing the battery, removing the Taptic Engine gives you a much better chance of removing the battery adhesive strips successfully. To keep them from snagging and breaking, you want to pull them from as low an angle as possible. With the Taptic Engine in the way, you have to pull them at almost 90 degrees, or risk snagging them on the Taptic Engine.
i can’t get the 2.1 screw 2 come out pls help anyone
I agree with Jamie Liao above. Skips steps 18-24 as described. Before proceeding with step 25, I heated a microwavable hot/cold compress (used to treat muscle strains). I set the iPhone back casing on the heated compress before pulling out the adhesive strips.
Again, there is no need to do steps 18 through 24.
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Schiebe vorsichtig die barometrische Entlüftung in Richtung des Taptic Engine, um den Kleber zu lösen, mit dem sie an der Unterkante des iPhone befestigt ist.
Adhesive may require a tiny amount of tugging of the barometric vent to free it…
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Verwende das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um den Stecker der Taptic Engine von seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board zu trennen.
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Entferne die drei 1,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, mit denen die Taptic Engine am hinteren Gehäuse befestigt ist.
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Ziehe die drei Klebestreifen an der Unterkante des Akkus ab.
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Benutze, wenn möglich, deine Fingernägel oder eine stumpfe Pinzette. Achte darauf, dass du den Akku nicht mit irgendwelchen scharfen Werkzeugen anstichst.
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Ziehe langsam eine Akkuklebelasche weg vom Akku, in Richtung der Unterseite des iPhone.
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Ziehe stetig und halte eine konstante Spannung auf dem Streifen, bis er zwischen der Batterie und dem hinteren Gehäuse herausrutscht. Das beste Ergebnis erhältst du , wenn du in einem Winkel von 60 ° oder weniger ziehst.
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Wiederhole den vorherigen Schritt mit dem zweiten und dritten Streifen.
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Wenn du alle Klebestreifen erfolgreich entfernt hast, kannst du den nächsten Schritt überspringen.
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Andernfalls, wenn einer der Klebestreifen unter dem Akku gerissen ist und nicht entfernt werden konnte, fahre mit dem nächsten Schritt fort.
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Wenn einer der Klebestreifen abgerissen ist und der Akku weiterhin im Rückgehäuse festklebt, erhitze einen iOpener, oder benutze einen Haatrockner, um das Rückgehäuse direkt hinter dem Akku zu erhitzen. Es sollte so heiß werden, dass du es kaum noch anfassen kannst.
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Drehe das iPhone um und trenne die Klebeverbindungen hinter dem Akku mit einer Plastikkarte auf.
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Ziehe die Saite oder die Zahnseide unter den oberen Ecken des Akkus durch, bringe beide Enden zusammen, wickle sie um ein gefaltetes Tuch und ziehe gleichmäßig.
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Entferne den Akku.
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Klebe den Akku fest, löse den Stecker wieder ab und fahre mit dem Zusammenbau fort.
When it came time to adhere the new battery in place, I realized there was a little space on all sides of the battery. I wasn’t sure how to position it, so I just centered it. But when I went to reattach the connector back to the logic board, it wasn’t aligned. I had to remove part of the strips and was able to salvage enough adhesive to reposition it. It was frustrating and I think giving people a heads up in future would be helpful. Maybe this is noted somewhere, but if it is, I missed it.
I’m super pleased with the process otherwise. And with a new battery, it’s like I have a new phone!
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Vergleiche dein neues Ersatzteil genau mit dem Originalteil. Möglicherweise musst du fehlende Bauteile übertragen oder Schutzfolien abziehen, bevor du es einbauen kannst.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Entsorge deinen Elektromüll fachgerecht.
Die Reparatur verlief nicht wie geplant? Probiere zunächst einige grundsätzliche Lösungsmöglichkeiten. Auf unserem Antwortenforum findest du Hilfe bei der Fehlerbehebung.
Vergleiche dein neues Ersatzteil genau mit dem Originalteil. Möglicherweise musst du fehlende Bauteile übertragen oder Schutzfolien abziehen, bevor du es einbauen kannst.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Entsorge deinen Elektromüll fachgerecht.
Die Reparatur verlief nicht wie geplant? Probiere zunächst einige grundsätzliche Lösungsmöglichkeiten. Auf unserem Antwortenforum findest du Hilfe bei der Fehlerbehebung.
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34 Kommentare
can the battery from iPhone 7plus fit in the 6s plus? looks to me like is the same type of connector and same dimensions so it would be an easy way to gain 150 extra mah by using the iphone 7 plus battery
Alex
Of course you can! WHY NOT?
How can I attach the screen back to the body after replacing the old battery,do i need any adhesive to attach the screen to the body?
Not necessarily.
Do I need any adhesive to attach the screen back to the body after replacing the old battery with a new one?
The display is held in with screws and clips, so everything will work fine if you reassemble the phone without replacing the adhesive. That said, your phone won't be as waterproof as it used to be. We do have replacement adhesive available for you, but we're still working on putting together a clear guide on how to install it properly. (Stay tuned!)
no, you can use the same, unless you dont use the hairdryer/iOpener, then you will have to use a special adhesive
Yep. It’s not worth the risk. Just take the device to an Apple Store and pay the $80. That way you not only have a water resistant device, you also have a 90 day warranty on the battery AND the work performed on it. So if the phone’s water resistance fails because of the adhesive, Apple will replace the device without any additional cost.
the glue around the body must be put before reassembling the connectors of the display unit or after ?
Sooo…in Step 24, DO NOT use the metal-tipped tweezers to “jam” under the Battery and try to pry up on it. You WILL risk puncturing the battery and catching the iPhone on fire.
I’ve replaced the battery. But it won’t turn back on? I can’t force restart it because my fingerprint button doesn’t work? Can you help?
Mine did the same thing, what do I do?
Excelente guia he completado el trabajo, muy util para no aprender hechando a perder los equipos, los soguientes seran pan comido, saludos muchas gracias
Is the battery Apple genuine
when you open up the phone you might think that you don’t need to remove the Taptic Engine for the battery change. But when the adhesive breaks and you will need more space to pull the remaining adhesive out.
Don’t skip the steps.
on ios 13.4 after replacing the battery the phone is indicating recharging but the % never goes up try with and older apple original same thing reinstalled my battery that i wanted to replaced and it recharge % goes up
Procedure rating is difficult. Very capable person here. I used to replace cracked screens on the 3 and 3S all the time when I was a lower end SE at my old software dev employer. (I had replaced everything on the 3s, home button, camera, battery, screen, etc.) Granted it's a different phone today, but I'm cautious, careful, and patient. Off the bat I cracked the screen because the instructions said to "twist the spudger to widen the opening". Tuck me. Crack spread out from the home button to ear piece. I used a Dyson hair dryer for 45 seconds to heat up phone base. After the crack I taped the screen w box packing tape to keep glass from going all over. Removal was fine after that. Didnt need additional heat, but it doesn't matter. Separated the phone and didn't bother replacing the battery now that I need a $75 screen. Using work phone as only phone for now.
so i replaced the battery, speaker and front camera/proximity sensor and now my phone is acting crazy. It randomly shuts down, no vibration, no sound, no wifi, and cant hear anyone when i call. What did i do? I work at a computer repair shop so this is kind of embarrassing….
Great guide I felt so accomplished after replacing my battery
I used 2 iFixit kits to replace batteries in an iPhone 7 Plus and an iPhone X this week. Both jobs went smoothly, thanks to these online guides. The batteries showed 100% capacity with 0 cycles in coconutBattery Plus readouts. The batteries even were recognized by iOS as “Apple” batteries in the Settings/Battery app. This is a huge change as previous iFixit batteries I have installed were not recognized by iOS. Both iFixit kits contained all the exact tools needed, plus perimeter gaskets to reseal the screen to the body. The iPhone X kit even contained a new speaker gasket. Wow! iFixit is the best resource for Apple do-it-yourselfers. Thank you!
hi guys i just wanted to ask whether u need 2 have the battery below 25% or can i start before?
Replaced the battery and the rear camera module in 30 minutes, great guide and replacement parts. Thank you iFixit
Replacement successful. Didn’t attach adhesive yet. But i replaced the battery. Tip. Removing screws is easy but putting back in is a pain. If the screw is not fitting on the end of your screwdriver. Your using the wrong screwdriver. Realizing this makes it way easier
Guide is really clear, took a little bit of time to clean the gunk from the adhesive from the phone to get the phone back together, but the ifixit battery fell in place perfectly and I’m happy overall with how the phone got back together.
Thank you! Like a glove! Correction: STEP 15 - Need Phillips screw driver
Shouldn't we use the adhesive on the battery while reassembling?
I replaced my battery and now my phone is stuck in Reboot loop. What’s the issue?
Worked Perfectly!!! Thank you guys so much, $30 for a new battery AND tools, cannot beat that!
The recommendation of discharging the battery is completely unnecessary. Even a 25% charged battery can explode. Completely ridiculous suggestion.
pargoff - Antwort
The risk of thermal runaway on these batteries decreases with the battery's SOC (state of charge). Below 50% charge the risk is fairly low, and at 25% charge the risk of a thermal event is near zero. If I recall correctly, the same suggestion appears in Apple's official (non-public) service manuals for the iPhone.
Jeff Suovanen -
@jeffsu Yes, that is correct. Apple does require all certified staff to discharge the battery below 25%. This is an industry standard for all LiION batteries. If you don’t want to do this, just make sure to not puncture the battery and disconnect it first thing.
Ben Meinhart - Antwort
Hang on a second here, doesn’t the Ifixit part I ordered come with the seals? The display assembly? It doesn’t. Now I have to wait another week?!
Vanessa Pinter - Antwort
How do you turn off if the screen isn’t responding to touch?
adam - Antwort
The replacement battery came with the seal—but how do you put it on???
lkollar - Antwort
Instructions for replacing the seal are here: Austausch der iPhone Display Klebestreifen
bester - Antwort