Einleitung

Use this guide to replace a cracked or broken screen in an iPhone 7 Plus. This includes removing the front-facing camera, earpiece speaker, LCD shield plate, and home/Touch ID sensor assembly—all of which must be transferred to your new display. For an easier repair, replace the entire display assembly instead by following this much shorter guide.

In either case, it's important to carefully transfer the original home/Touch ID sensor onto the new display in order for it to function.

Image 1/1: Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.
  • Before you begin, discharge your iPhone battery below 25%. A charged lithium-ion battery can catch fire and/or explode if accidentally punctured.

  • Power off your iPhone before beginning disassembly.

  • Opening the iPhone's display will compromise its waterproof seals. Take extra care not to expose your iPhone to liquid damage after completing your repair.

  • Remove the two 3.4 mm pentalobe screws at the bottom edge of the iPhone.

The recommendation of discharging the battery is completely unnecessary. Even a 25% charged battery can explode. Completely ridiculous suggestion.

pargoff - Antwort

The risk of thermal runaway on these batteries decreases with the battery's SOC (state of charge). Below 50% charge the risk is fairly low, and at 25% charge the risk of a thermal event is near zero. If I recall correctly, the same suggestion appears in Apple's official (non-public) service manuals for the iPhone.

Jeff Suovanen -

Image 1/1: Use a hairdryer or [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|prepare an iOpener|new_window=true] and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.
  • Heating the lower edge of the iPhone will help soften the adhesive securing the display, making it easier to open.

  • Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the iPhone for about a minute in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

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Image 1/2: Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass. Image 2/2: Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.
  • Apply a suction cup to the lower half of the front panel, just above the home button.

    • Be sure the suction cup does not overlap with the home button, as this will prevent a seal from forming between the suction cup and front glass.

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Image 1/3: Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap. Image 2/3: The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside. Image 3/3: While pulling up on the suction cup, twist the spudger to widen the opening between the screen and rear case.
  • Pull up on the suction cup with firm, constant pressure to create a slight gap between the front panel and rear case.

  • Insert the flat end of a spudger into the gap.

    • The watertight adhesive holding the display in place is very strong; creating this initial gap takes a significant amount of force. If you're having a hard time opening a gap, rock the screen up and down to weaken the adhesive until you can fit a spudger inside.

  • While pulling up on the suction cup, twist the spudger to widen the opening between the screen and rear case.

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Image 1/3: Slide the spudger up the left edge of the phone starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place. Image 2/3: Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break. Image 3/3: Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break.
  • Insert the flat end of the spudger between the front panel and the rear case at the lower left edge of the iPhone.

  • Slide the spudger up the left edge of the phone starting at the lower edge and moving towards the volume control buttons and silent switch, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.

  • Do not try to pry the top edge of the display away from the rear case, as it is held in place by plastic clips that may break.

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Image 1/2: Slide the spudger up the right edge of the phone to the top corner, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place. Image 2/2: Slide the spudger up the right edge of the phone to the top corner, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.
  • Remove the spudger from the left side of the phone and insert the flat end into the bottom right corner.

  • Slide the spudger up the right edge of the phone to the top corner, breaking up the adhesive holding the display in place.

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Image 1/2: '''Do not raise the display more than 10º''' as there are delicate ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board. Image 2/2: '''Do not raise the display more than 10º''' as there are delicate ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.
  • Pull up on the suction cup to lift up the display and open the iPhone.

    • Do not raise the display more than 10º as there are delicate ribbon cables along the right edge of the device connecting the display to the logic board.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Pull up on the small nub on the suction cup to remove it from the front panel.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Slide an opening pick underneath the display along the top edge of the phone to loosen the last of the adhesive.

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Image 1/3: Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book. Image 2/3: Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board. Image 3/3: Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.
  • Pull the display assembly slightly away from the top edge of the phone to disengage the clips holding it to the rear case.

  • Open the iPhone by swinging the display up from the left side, like the back cover of a book.

    • Don't try to fully separate the display yet, as several fragile ribbon cables still connect it to the iPhone's logic board.

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Image 1/1: Three 1.2 mm screws
  • Remove the following four tri-point Y000 screws securing the lower display cable bracket to the logic board:

    • Three 1.2 mm screws

    • One 2.6 mm screw

Is it really safe to lay the device fully open like a book? The cable leading to the LCD gets stretched across the sharp edge of the aluminum edge of the back cover.

u204863 - Antwort

Generally I'd say no, it's not safe. In reality I've seen a bit of variance in the cable length, and sometimes it'll be fine—but mostly I'd be prepared to prop the display up or hold it in place at a slight angle so it doesn't put too much stress on the cables. On prior iPhones it was easy to rubberband the display to a box or a can of soda, and something like that would probably work well here too. Use your own judgment.

Jeff Suovanen -

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Remove the lower display cable bracket.

I am confused, please help. LOL the bracket, the very first one being removed. I see it has three screws the same size and one a different size? I've been trying to fix my daughter's phone and ordered a 0.6 mm Tri Wing screwdriver for iPhone 7 plus /Apple watch. It seems to fit the screws and it seems to be turning them although I can't see that well but they're not coming out. However when I used it on a smaller bracket with two screws they came right out so I'm thinking I don't have the right screwdriver I am at my Wit's End!! I have been working on this phone or attempting to for a while now. I cannot find a list anywhere of the exact size screwdrivers needed to Take apart an iPhone 7 plus. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

chris west - Antwort

If your tri-wing screwdriver worked for other tri-point screws in the phone, then it should work for the screws you are struggling with! If it feels like the screws are spinning but not coming out, try to use tweezers to pull them out. I often struggle with tri-point screws, and need to apply some downward pressure to remove them. This can be risky though, as you do not want to strip the screw or damage components underneath the bracket. If you continue to struggle, you can give this driver and this bit a try.

Scott Havard - Antwort

Image 1/3: Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to  the phone. Image 2/3: Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to  the phone. Image 3/3: Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to  the phone.
  • Use the point of a spudger to lift the battery connector out of its socket on the logic board.

  • Bend the connector cable up slightly to prevent it from making contact with the socket and providing power to the phone.

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Image 1/3: To re-attach press connectors, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage. Image 2/3: To re-attach press connectors, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage. Image 3/3: To re-attach press connectors, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger or a fingernail to disconnect the two lower display connectors by prying them straight up from their sockets on the logic board.

  • To re-attach press connectors, press down on one end until it clicks into place, then repeat on the other end. Do not press down on the middle. If the connector is even slightly misaligned, the connector can bend, causing permanent damage.

The note about the danger of pressing on the connector incorrectly is very legitimate. Though I find it more practical to use a wide (1.5 cm) case opener tool to press it down all at once. Minimizes risk of bending the connector.

Talon - Antwort

Image 1/3: One 1.3 mm screw Image 2/3: Two 1.0 mm screws Image 3/3: Remove the bracket.
  • Remove the three tri-point Y000 screws securing the bracket over the front panel sensor assembly connector:

    • One 1.3 mm screw

    • Two 1.0 mm screws

  • Remove the bracket.

Posted a comment above on the first step. The screwdriver that I ordered Works taking out these two screens shown in the picture. However it does not work on the first bracket that needs to be removed. It seems that all screw sizes are somewhat different but I'm not finding a list showing different screwdriver sizes needed. Does this make sense? Could anybody please give me some advice on this thank you much.

chris west - Antwort

Image 1/2: This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending. Image 2/2: This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.
  • Disconnect the front panel sensor assembly connector from its socket on the logic board.

  • This press connector should also be reconnected one end at a time to minimize the risk of bending.

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Image 1/1: During reassembly, pause here if you wish to [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iPhone+Display+Adhesive+Replacement/93983|replace the adhesive around the edges of the display|new_window=true].

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Image 1/1: Two 1.8 mm screws
  • Remove the five Phillips screws securing the earpiece speaker bracket:

    • Two 1.8 mm screws

    • One 2.3 mm screw

    • One 2.4 mm screw

    • One 2.8 mm screw

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the earpiece speaker bracket.

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Image 1/3: Gently bend the camera ribbon cable to the side to clear the way to the earpiece speaker underneath. Image 2/3: Gently bend the camera ribbon cable to the side to clear the way to the earpiece speaker underneath. Image 3/3: Gently bend the camera ribbon cable to the side to clear the way to the earpiece speaker underneath.
  • Use the flat end of a spudger to lift the front-facing camera from its housing.

  • Gently bend the camera ribbon cable to the side to clear the way to the earpiece speaker underneath.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the earpiece speaker.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Gently fold the camera and attached ribbon cable toward the bottom of the iPhone to allow access to the components underneath.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Slide a spudger under the proximity sensor flex cable, and lift the sensor out of its housing.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Slide the tip of a spudger underneath the ambient light sensor flex cable, and lift the sensor out of its housing.

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Image 1/3: If necessary, use an iOpener or hair dryer to heat the top portion of the display and soften the adhesive securing the flex cable. Image 2/3: Pry up to separate the edge of the flex cable from the back of the display. Image 3/3: Pry up to separate the edge of the flex cable from the back of the display.
  • Insert the sharp edge of an iFixit opening tool underneath the camera assembly's flex cable, on the opposite side from the front-facing camera.

    • If necessary, use an iOpener or hair dryer to heat the top portion of the display and soften the adhesive securing the flex cable.

  • Pry up to separate the edge of the flex cable from the back of the display.

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Image 1/3: Continue separating the remainder of the flex cable, pushing the spudger toward the strip of circular gold earpiece speaker contacts. Image 2/3: Continue separating the remainder of the flex cable, pushing the spudger toward the strip of circular gold earpiece speaker contacts. Image 3/3: Continue separating the remainder of the flex cable, pushing the spudger toward the strip of circular gold earpiece speaker contacts.
  • Insert the point of a spudger underneath the same portion of the flex cable that you separated in the previous step.

  • Continue separating the remainder of the flex cable, pushing the spudger toward the strip of circular gold earpiece speaker contacts.

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Image 1/1:
  • Continue using your spudger to carefully separate the last of the flex cable from the back of the display.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the front camera and sensor cable assembly.

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Image 1/1: One 1.1 mm screw
  • Remove the four Y000 screws securing the bracket over the home/Touch ID sensor:

    • One 1.1 mm screw

    • Three 1.3 mm screws

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the bracket that secures the home/Touch ID sensor.

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Image 1/2: If the entire connector begins to flip up without separating, press down on the cable at the top edge of the connector with the flat of your spudger, while simultaneously prying up the left edge of the connector. Be very careful not to damage the cable or connector, or you will permanently disable the sensor. Image 2/2: If the entire connector begins to flip up without separating, press down on the cable at the top edge of the connector with the flat of your spudger, while simultaneously prying up the left edge of the connector. Be very careful not to damage the cable or connector, or you will permanently disable the sensor.
  • Pry under the left edge of the home button cable connector to disconnect it from its socket.

    • If the entire connector begins to flip up without separating, press down on the cable at the top edge of the connector with the flat of your spudger, while simultaneously prying up the left edge of the connector. Be very careful not to damage the cable or connector, or you will permanently disable the sensor.

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Image 1/2: It's very easy to damage your iPhone during this step. Work slowly and take care where you pry with your tool. If you damage the Touch ID hardware, it can only be replaced by Apple. Image 2/2: If the connector doesn't pry up easily, use a hair dryer or iOpener to heat and soften the adhesive securing the connector, and then try again.
  • Carefully pry up the underlying connector and move it out of the way of the home/Touch ID cable.

    • It's very easy to damage your iPhone during this step. Work slowly and take care where you pry with your tool. If you damage the Touch ID hardware, it can only be replaced by Apple.

    • If the connector doesn't pry up easily, use a hair dryer or iOpener to heat and soften the adhesive securing the connector, and then try again.

    • Don't try to detach the connector completely—simply flip it up slightly so that the underlying home/Touch ID sensor cable can be removed.

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Image 1/1: Flip the display assembly over. Use a hairdryer or [https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/iOpener+Heating/25705|prepare an iOpener|new_window=true] and apply it to the lower edge of the display for about 90 seconds in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.
  • Heating the area around the home/Touch ID sensor will help soften the adhesive holding its delicate cable in place, making it easier to remove safely.

  • Flip the display assembly over. Use a hairdryer or prepare an iOpener and apply it to the lower edge of the display for about 90 seconds in order to soften up the adhesive underneath.

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Image 1/3: Image 2/3: Image 3/3:
  • Use an opening pick to gently separate the adhesive holding the home/Touch ID sensor cable to the back side of the display panel.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the home/Touch ID sensor assembly.

True to this picture, the home button can only be removed (and put back in place) through the front of the LCD assembly.

Talon - Antwort

Very good comment Talon. That was the first thing I was looking for here. There should be a bullet point in step 24 - Carefully remove home button from front of display being careful not to damage cable.

Tracey - Antwort

Image 1/3: You don't need to remove the sticker completely unless you intend to replace it. Image 2/3: You don't need to remove the sticker completely unless you intend to replace it. Image 3/3: You don't need to remove the sticker completely unless you intend to replace it.
  • Peel back the upper, rectangular portion of the LCD shield plate sticker to separate it from the flex cable underneath.

    • You don't need to remove the sticker completely unless you intend to replace it.

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Image 1/1:
  • Use a Y000 driver to remove three 1.1 mm screws from one side of the display EMI shield.

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Image 1/1:
  • Use a Y000 driver to remove two more 1.1 mm screws from the other side of the EMI shield.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the 1.8 mm Phillips screw securing the EMI shield near the bottom of the display.

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Image 1/2: Feed the flex cable through the cutout in the LCD shield plate, being careful not to snag it. Image 2/2: Feed the flex cable through the cutout in the LCD shield plate, being careful not to snag it.
  • Lift the LCD shield plate while pressing down on the flex cable it surrounds.

  • Feed the flex cable through the cutout in the LCD shield plate, being careful not to snag it.

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Image 1/1:
  • Remove the LCD shield plate.

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Image 1/1:
  • Only the LCD and digitizer assembly remains.

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Schluss

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

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