Einleitung
Für eine leichtere Reparatur kannst du unseren Reparatursatz benutzen. Folge dazu dieser kürzeren Anleitung, um den kompletten Bildschirm deines iPhones auszutauschen.
Wenn du mehr Erfahrung hast, hilft dir diese Anleitung "nur" die LCD und Touchscreen Einheit des iPhone 7 Plus auszutauschen (d.h. das reine Frontpanel). Du musst dazu verschiedene Bauteile vom alten Bildschirm auf das Neuteil übertragen, bevor du es einbaust, inklusive der Frontkamera, dem Ohrhörer-Lautsprecher, der LCD Abschirmung und dem Home/Touch ID Sensor.
Diese Anleitung zeigt dir, wie du einen defekten oder gebrochenen Bildschirm an einem iPhone 7 Plus wechseln kannst.
Das beinhaltet den Austausch der Frontkamera, der Ohrhörer-Lautsprecher, der LCD Abschirmung, und der Home/Fingerabdrucksensor Einheit.
In jedem Fall ist es sehr wichtig, sorgfältig den originalen Home Button/TouchID-Sensor vom alten auf das neue Display zu übertragen. Dieser Sensor ist von Apple mit dem originalen Logic Board gepaart, ein Ersetzen macht das iPhone unbrauchbar!
Was du brauchst
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Schalte das iPhone aus, bevor du es auseinandernimmst.
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Entferne die zwei 3,4 mm Pentalobe Schrauben an der Unterseite des iPhones.
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Zeichne mit einem Permanentmarker 3 mm von der Spitze des Plektrums entfernt einen Strich.
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Wenn dein Display zerbrochen ist, dann solltest du ein weiteres Zerbrechen verhindern und Verletzungen während der Reparatur vermeiden, indem du Klebeband auf der Glasscheibe befestigst.
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Klebe überlappende Streifen von durchsichtigem Paketband über das Display des iPhones, bis die ganze Frontscheibe bedeckt ist.
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Wenn die Scheibe so stark geplittert ist, dass du den Saugheber während der nächsten Schritte nicht ansetzen kannst, dann kannst du versuchen, ein sehr starkes Stück Klebeband (etwa Panzerband) zu einem Griff zu falten und aufzukleben. Versuche dann das Display damit anzuheben. (so wie im dritten Bild gezeigt)
Tape doesn’t hold. suction cup doesn’t work. Tape folded over doesn’t work as a handle. I’ve used 3m’ s Gorilla duct tape. The glass is so shattered I cant get a point started to remove the glass. Phone has been in an otter box for years. dropped it and shattered glass while replacing case. Now what?
When all else fails, you can superglue your suction cup (or tape) to the display, wait for it to cure, and pull.
I had issues getting the suction cup to stick on my cracked screen, so I tried using scotch tape (only tape I had around), but it didn’t work. This best thing I did was to forcefully pry the screen off (I wasn’t worried about damages because it’s already cracked) with the spudger. I think its best to find something stickier (like Duct Tape) and used that to lift up the screen.
Definitely surprised how sticky the adhesive was.
It’s amazing how a heat gun or hair dryer makes life easier to soften up the adhesive. Then use a thin iSesame opening tool to get in under the screen (start @ 90 degrees/vertical either side of the home button & slowly go horizontal) the need to use suction cups. Run the opening tool along the front and down both sides to cut the adhesive before trying to lift the screen.
Cheers Wayne
I didn’t have a hair dryer so I (gingerly) used an iron over some wet coffee filters (I mean , it is waterproof) . Then, quickly dried i off with paper towels, used gorilla tape and my fixit metal splunger . worked like a charm .
What about baby cracks? skip to step 3 or not…
As others have mentioned, suction cup and tape doesn’t work. I used the blade of a box cutter (watch fingers) and inserted just below and right of home button. Then moved spudger along the crack to tear adhesive/seal. Easy peasy.
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Wir haben die Anti-Clamp entwickelt, um Geräte sicher zu öffnen. Die nächsten drei Schritte zeigen die Benutzung der[ungültige Artikelnummer: IF145–513]. Wenn du sie nicht verwenden willst, überspringe die nächsten drei Schritte und folge einer anderen Methode.
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Drücke den blauen Griff zurück, damit die Arme der Anti-Clamp frei beweglich werden.
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Schiebe die Arme entweder über die linke oder die rechte Kante des iPhones.
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Bringe die Saugheber am unteren Rand des iPhones direkt über dem Home Button an, einen auf der Vorderseite, den anderen auf der Rückseite.
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Drücke die Saugheber zusammen, so dass sie auf den Oberflächen haften.
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Drücke den blauen Griff vorwärts, damit die Arme wieder fest sind.
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Drehe den Griff eine volle Umdrehung im Uhrzeigersinn, oder bis du merkst, dass sich die Saugheber dehnen.
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Führe einen erwärmten iOpener durch die Arme der Anti-Clamp.
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Forme den iOpener so, dass er auf der Unterkante des iPhones liegt.
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Warte eine Minute, damit sich der Kleber lösen und ein Spalt entstehen kann.
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Wenn die Anti Clamp einen ausreichend großen Spalt erzeugt hat, setze ein Plektrum unter das Display ein.
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Überspringe die nächsten drei Schritte.
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Es ist leichter das iPhone zu öffnen, wenn du das untere Ende erwärmst, so werden die Verklebungen aufgeweicht.
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Du kannst das untere Ende des iPhones mit einem Haartrockner oder einem iOpener etwa 90 Sekunden lang erwärmen, dann sollte der Kleber weich genug sein.
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Setze einen Saugnapf auf die untere Hälfte der Vorderseite , direkt über den Home Button.
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Ziehe gleichmäßig und fest am Saugnapf. Es sollte sich ein kleiner Spalt zwischen Display und Rahmen bilden.
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Setze ein Plektrum in den Spalt ein.
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Schiebe das Plektrum entlang der linken Kante von der unteren Ecke an nach oben in Richtung der Tasten für die Lautstärkeregelung und des Stummschalters. Trenne so die Klebeverbindung des Displays auf.
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Halte vor der oberen linken Ecke an.
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Setze das Plektrum an der rechten unteren Ecke ein. Schiebe es um die Ecke herum, dann entlang der rechten Kante nach oben. Trenne dadurch die Verklebung.
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Hebe vorsichtig den Saugnapf an und mit ihm den unteren Teil des Displays.
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Ziehe an der kleinen Lasche am Saugnapf, um ihn vom Front Panel zu lösen.
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Schiebe das Plektrum unter das Display um die obere linke Ecke und die Oberkante entlang, um die letzte Klebeverbindung zu trennen.
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Schiebe die Displayeinheit leicht nach unten, weg von der Oberkante, um die Clips zu lösen, mit denen sie am Rückgehäuse gehalten wird.
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Öffne das iPhone, indem du das Display von der linken Seite her umklappst, so wie wenn du ein Buch öffnest.
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Lehne das Display an einen geeigneten Gegenstand, um es gut zu stützen, während du weiter am iPhone arbeitest.
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Entferne die folgenden Dreipunkt Y000-Schrauben, die die Blende des unteren Displaykabels am Logic Board fixieren:
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Drei 1,2mm Schrauben
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Eine 2,6mm Schraube
Is it really safe to lay the device fully open like a book? The cable leading to the LCD gets stretched across the sharp edge of the aluminum edge of the back cover.
Generally I'd say no, it's not safe. In reality I've seen a bit of variance in the cable length, and sometimes it'll be fine—but mostly I'd be prepared to prop the display up or hold it in place at a slight angle so it doesn't put too much stress on the cables. On prior iPhones it was easy to rubberband the display to a box or a can of soda, and something like that would probably work well here too. Use your own judgment.
You could stick the suction cup back on, near the right side of the phone, with the blue hook oriented in such a way that it becomes a stand for the screen. That way it won’t open much more than 90 degrees, and leaves both your hands free.
Mark -
The tri wing screws are so hard to remove. What's the trick?
I cannot remove one of the corner screws in this step and i have used the tweezers and the y000 tri tip and i am afraid that it is stripping it. is there a work around for this step?
@katmonday1 No workaround unfortunately. Make sure the driver tip is in good condition and fits the screw correctly. Seat it in the screw, hold the driver perfectly vertical, press down hard (and maintain it), and turn. It’ll come out. If it’s really stripped you’ll have to get more aggressive—try one or more of the techniques in this guide or get some help. Good luck!
A tip to remember which screw is which as the differences are pretty tiny: I used different colored sharpie fine-points and made a mark on the top of the screws before removing. I thought about having strips of tape that I stuck similar sizes to, but the coloring seemed to work more easily. I only did this for step 11 and it saved me down the road when trying to differentiate the 1.2 and the 1.3mm screws!
STOP! Before you remove Any screws, be sure to create several bins to hold the various sizes in… or mark them like Trey suggested. I failed to pay attention because I thought they were all the same… they are not. It is very hard to figure out the sizes if you remove them all and store them in a single location.
i had a piece of paper with the steps numbered that involved screws. I had double sided tape on the paper and the number of screws and thier position marked. This was so helpful in removing and then finding and installing the tiniest screws on earth. And i have TINY hands. I can’t imagine someone with large paws being able to accomplish any of this.
there is one screw thats 1.2 mm but its bigger than the others and will fit in no hole of the entire phone. i got it out bot now i have no idea where it has to go i tried every hole. can somebody help me?
what do i do if one of the screws dont want to come off
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Entferne die Blende des unteren Displaykabels.
I am confused, please help. LOL the bracket, the very first one being removed. I see it has three screws the same size and one a different size? I've been trying to fix my daughter's phone and ordered a 0.6 mm Tri Wing screwdriver for iPhone 7 plus /Apple watch. It seems to fit the screws and it seems to be turning them although I can't see that well but they're not coming out. However when I used it on a smaller bracket with two screws they came right out so I'm thinking I don't have the right screwdriver I am at my Wit's End!! I have been working on this phone or attempting to for a while now. I cannot find a list anywhere of the exact size screwdrivers needed to Take apart an iPhone 7 plus. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
If your tri-wing screwdriver worked for other tri-point screws in the phone, then it should work for the screws you are struggling with! If it feels like the screws are spinning but not coming out, try to use tweezers to pull them out. I often struggle with tri-point screws, and need to apply some downward pressure to remove them. This can be risky though, as you do not want to strip the screw or damage components underneath the bracket. If you continue to struggle, you can give this driver and this bit a try.
Also be aware that the battery connector might stick to the bottom of the steel bracket. This part had me a bit puzzled at first. lol
Just gently pry the connector off the steel bracket to release it and be sure the connector isn’t allowed to accidentally reconnect to the board.
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Mit der Spitze eines Spudgers kannst du den Batterieanschluss aus seinem Stecker auf dem Logic Board heben.
on reassembly, make sure that the connector cable is back in place, along side the battery, and not up, or on top in any way.
I slipped a small piece of paper under the flap.
After this step it is worth jumping to step 36 and disconnecting the lighting connector assembly (indicated with the orange rectangle) and connecting the new cable to test it out. After attaching the new lightning connector assembly, reattach the battery, and try plugging it in to see if the new assembly works correctly. If it does, then power down the phone, disconnect the battery, and disconnect the new lightning connector assembly. Then continue. If it doesn’t work, this check will save you a couple of hours of work.
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Nutze das flache Ende eines Sprudgers oder einen Fingernagel, um die beiden unteren Displaystecker aus ihren Buchsen auf dem Logic Board zu hebeln.
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Wenn du nach dem Zusammenbau kein Bild hast, das Display nur weiße Zeilen zeigt oder die Touchfunktion teilweise oder ganz ausgefallen ist, dann löse noch einmal diese beiden Kabel und verbinde sie neu. Achte darauf, dass sie gut sitzen.
What can happen if the battery is not disconnected before the two lower display connectors?
Hello, by my expierence and what i have learned iphone repair videos you can ‘blow up’ capacitors which one in logic board, screen is sensetive with voltages and etc….
When I removed the lower display cable bracket in step 12, the top connector stuck to the bracket and became disconnected.
My replacement screen wouldn't sit in the display connector properly, (wouldn't clip in both sides at same time) so I made sure it sat on one and it was lined up and got a thin piece of dense sponge and placed that over the connector, then proceeded to install the connector shield and screen works perfectly fine without a hitch. Very good tutorial just earnt me £25 lol
have the same issue, sometimes it doesn’t sit on the left side, other time not on the other, the difference is iphone not starting at all or looping with apple logo reboot…
ibisiki -
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Entferne die drei Dreipunkt Y000 Schrauben, mit denen die Abdeckung über der Buchse für den Sensor des Front Panels befestigt ist.
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Eine 1,3mm Schraube
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Zwei 1,0mm Schraube
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Entferne die Abdeckung.
Posted a comment above on the first step. The screwdriver that I ordered Works taking out these two screens shown in the picture. However it does not work on the first bracket that needs to be removed. It seems that all screw sizes are somewhat different but I'm not finding a list showing different screwdriver sizes needed. Does this make sense? Could anybody please give me some advice on this thank you much.
What happens if you break “tear in half” the black tape stuff?
Unfortunately if you tear the black cable you will need to replace it !!!
Chris West the screwdriver that probably came with the kit was pentalobe to get the first two screws out to open the case. you need a .6mm Y tip driver for internal. its deceptively Phillips looking but is not it only has three blades in a Y, not 4 in a +
I called the y tip a triangle tip until I read these comments. Thanks for the correction
Hello is it if I put wrong screw can damage the board?
Care should be taken while removing the last 1.0mm screw, on the far right in the picture. This screw is screwed into another screw (or standoff) beneath the bracket. This standoff may come unscrewed and upon removing the bracket you may find the screw and standoff are still attached to the bracket. Do not lose this part if you decide to separate them , the standoff is not a normal phillips, and may require a special driver to reinstall. I used the phillips to start it back in, and relied on the screw to tighten it upon reassembly.
I know this is late bit a trick I use to put the standoffs in (had to do 2 cause someone lost the screws I was replacing) is to take the screw that goes in it srew them together loosely to give it a fake phillips head then gently screw both into the spot the standoff goes in. you can then take the phillips out (may need to put a spudger between the screw and standoff to keep the standoff down then use a tiny flathead to gently tighten the standoff down. its a few steps but makes life easier if you need to replace it quickly.
I was able to remove the first 1.0 mm three tri-point Y000 screw from the bracket but I cannot for the life of me get the other 1.0 mm screw undone or the one 1.3 mm screw undone. Any tips?
I tried pressing down a bit harder and I even put the first screw back in to see if it helped me loosen the other two but it did not work.
My screwdriver was doing the job up until this point, and I’m worried I’ll strip the screw if I keep trying.
Would appreciate any advice!
Dear IFixit: First, I want You to know I love your repair guides. I consider You to be the absolute best repair manuals available. But, hopefully as your friend I am going to point out once the bracked is removed a 2.0 mm Standoff screw should appear. It’s 1 of 2 screws holding the Antena Flex Cable in place. Rob
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Ziehe den Stecker der Front Panel Sensoreinheit aus der entsprechenden Buchse auf dem Logic Board.
Make sure that the orientation of the cable when you attach is correct! See the picture for the correct orientation. If it gets installed 180 degrees out(i.e., the ribbon goes up instead of down, then the earphone, front camera, and Home button will be inoperative. Ask me how I know!?! Worked great when installed correctly!
Thanks Kevin. I would be stuck if I hadn't read your comment!?! Great input.
That's save my life!thanks god!
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Entferne die Displayeinheit.
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Unterbrich hier während des Zusammenbaus wenn du den Klebstoff um die Kanten des Displays ersetzen willst.
When removing the old adhesive from the edges, duct tape can be useful. Simply use small strips of duct tape and your spudger to press the tape’s adhesive side carefully into the edges of the phone’s display and slowly peel the duct tape away from the display. The duct tape should pick up the remaining adhesive and carry it away from the edges. use the tip of the spudger to gently scrape away any remaining dirt or film from the crease around the edge and repeat the action with a new strip of tape to pick up any dirt, adhesive or grime from the surface. This should save considerable time.
Thank you for including a link to the iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement guide, this was very helpful!
is it really necessary to remove the display? the screen connectors are delicate and I fear re-assembly errors. I changed the battery and did not remove any screen connectors. no problems.
Due to the fact that THIS is the repair guide for replacing the DISPLAY it IS necessary to remove the display connectors. There is another guide for changing the battery -- you might want to follow that one.
Hannes -
I did not remove the display and ended up ripping one of the lower display cable ribbons when I turned the phone to remove one of the connectors. Be careful. I had to get a new display and move the Touch ID button.
I think that moving the replacement of the seal lower in the chain of events would be more beneficial. I'm replacing the battery, and stretching the adhesive tabs that held the battery in at a low angle kept sticking themselves to the newly-installed adhesive seal.
In the end, I wound up having to just remove the section of the seal along the bottom of the case :-/
If I'd been looking at the bigger picture, I'd have wanted to put the seal on right before reattaching the screen cables.
This guide does not show you the removal process for the top camera assembly. My screen looks like the one pictured but my replacement doesn't have the top connector or any of the front facing camera components and since the ribbon for the connectors looks like its coming out from underneath the display I can't see how to swap it over to the new display.
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Entferne die fünf Kreuzschlitzschrauben, die die Halteklammer des Ohrhörer-Lautsprechers halten:
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Zwei 1,8 mm Schrauben
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Eine 2,3 mm Schraube
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Eine 2,4 mm Schraube
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Eine 2,8 mm Schraube
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Mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers kannst du die Frontkamera aus ihrer Halterung heben.
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Biege vorsichtig das Flachbandkabel der Kamera zur Seite, um an den Ohrhörer-Lautsprecher darunter zu kommen.
How is this bit waterproofed on re-assembly?
The screen/display that I got, already included a camera/speaker. So I didn’t have to remove it.
I finished my repair and then started to use the phone again. I noticed Facetime was not working anymore (cameras, speakers and microphone was OK). I tried a few solutions I found on the Internet but nothing seemed to work. I open the phone back up and replaced the pre-installed camera with the old one I had on the broken screen/display. Closed the phone again and now Facetime works without any issues. I just wanted to pass that along.
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Entferne den Ohrhörer-Lautsprecher.
If you’re looking to continue on and replace the speaker mesh, take a look at the camera/cable replacement guide.
I almost forgot to clean the spring contacts, thanks for reminding me.
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Klappe vorsichtig die Kamera und das daran angeschlossene Flachbandkabel nach unten, um an die darunter liegenden Bauteile zu gelangen.
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Schiebe einen Spudger unter das Kabel des Umgebungslichtsensors und hebe den Sensor aus seinem Sitz.
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Schiebe die Spitze eines Spudgers unter das Kabel des Näherungssensors und hebe den Sensor aus seinem Sitz.
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Setze die scharfe Kante eines iFixit Opening Tools unter das Flachbandkabel der Frontkamera-Einheit am anderen Ende der Frontkamera.
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Heble nach oben, um die Kante des Flachbandkabels von der Rückseite des Displays zu trennen.
prying this up is sometimes difficult. I always keep a new one on hand incase. they are not expensive. if you separate the black strip, prox sensor will not work.
what if the black tape and the flex got seperated, is there a solution to get the earspeaker work gain? coz i tried putting the adhesive tape again behind the flex but still no luck.. what can i do?
Mac -
i think this just happened to me…
With this repair, you can just re-apply light heat to the front glass before removing this flex cable. The heat will transfer to the adhesive and will allow you to remove this flex cable very easily. Ensure that you have followed the previous steps so that you do not damage the ambient light filter and the proximity sensor. Always make sure that you pull very gently here as this is one of the most common damages caused to an iPhone 7 series. If the black strip sticks to the frame during removal, just make sure to put it back in it’s right place and you should have no issue; assuming you didn’t damage the flex cable. Always wear gloves. - TM
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Setze die Spitze eines Spudgers unter genau den Teil das Kabel, den du im vorigen Schritt getrennt hast.
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Fahre fort den Rest des Kabels zu trennen, indem du den Spudger in Richtung des Reihe aus kreisförmigen goldenen Ohrhörerkontakten schiebst.
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Benutze weiterhin den Spudger, um sorgfältig den Rest des Kabels von der Rückseite des Displays zu lösen.
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Entferne die gesamte Frontkamera und Sensorkabel Einheit.
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Zwischen dem Display und drei Reihen von Kupferkontakten auf der Rückseite des Kamerakabels/Sensorkabels ist ein Stück schwarzes doppelseitiges Isolierband angebracht. Es bleibt entweder am Display kleben, oder es kommt mit dem Kabel heraus.
Is there instruction on how to bend the cable?
You really need that tape, If still no sound after placing the tape in place, then you might have damaged the flex cable. Worthy to mention, that some replacement screens come without the ambient light filter (white film seem on the screen) and without the plastic brackets for the camera and proximity sensor, which in those cases, you would have to transfer those parts to the new screen. Also in some screens, the holes for the proximity sensor are not properly done and you might end up with a non-working proximity sensor. In those cases, just remove the pain with the spugger where the proximity sensor locates (removes the black paint) and then add some black permanent marker over it to make it black. That way, it will look pristine form the outside but just thin enough for the proximity sensor to work.
I had issues regarding sound after reassembling the iPhone. I initially used kapton tape. I could hear the caller but they could hear me. I checked every avenue I thought of, I recorded myself speaking which was fine so there was nothing wrong with the mic. I ended up heating the black insulator and transferring it and reseating the earpiece and flex assembly. After a couple attempts the mic was restored to normal operation.
yeah the mic and the earpiece not working , what is the solution for this problem ?
Do not pull on the cable an be gentle with the heat. There is a potential that the cable, which is soldered together on this part.
I had an issue with a costumers flex cable an the ear speaker stopped working bit the cable looked okay and I did not pull on it. So I used an soldering iron with a small tip, put some flux tape where the doubled-sided tape sits on the pads and soldered the cable back together at about 390 degrees celsius. It now works perfectly again.
After replacing screen, front camera doesn’t work. Replaced camera cable cable with a new cable; still no front camera. Rear camera works fine. Also, have a software “Home” button showing up. Finger Touch ID works and works as the Home button should as far as I can tell, How do I get rid of it?
Earpiece is also not working
So i had the same problem that the erapiece only is not working after replacement..
my soulotion was to reassmble all the flat out the there is a black double sided tape that need to put exactly on the back of the golden points behind the flat.
once the tape back on those golden tips it should work properly
Another thing to be careful of is the area where the black tape sits is actually two pieces of cable that are glued together and are connected by about 15 tiny contacts.
I must have heated the cable too much and ended up separating these two layers when prying… I put them back together but it must have not been lined up correctly as the proximity sensor and earpiece speaker did not work (the parts on the layer that came off), whereas the front camera did as that is on the same layer as the camera and was therefore intact.
I may attempt to re align the connectors again but I feel as though a replacement flex assembly may be the more appropriate solution!
I admit that this is my fault for overheating the component and not taking enough care, but what a weird design! Why couldn’t it have been one whole cable?
Did the replacement flex fix this issue?
is it okay to use electric tape in that case to cover the copper pieces? i installed everthing and the front camera works and the speaker works just when i make a call it turns off.. any recommendations?
why wouldnt it come with the tape on already? Im about to put electric tape because i dont have anything else.
なぜiPhone7Plusのフロントカメラフレックスケーブルには裏面に金属端子のような部分があるのでしょうか？
iPhone7やiPhone8にはこの部分がありませんが必要な役割がありますか？
After replacing iPhone 7+ screen I can’t call out or answer calls everything else works cleaned contacts with alcohol wipes put it back together and same thing the time is right I even updated the os since installing the new screen but phone reboots every time a call comes in or I dial out any suggestions
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Entferne die vier Y000 Schrauben, mit der die Abdeckung des Home / Touch ID-Sensors befestigt ist:
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Eine 1,1 mm Schraube
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Drei 1,3 mm Schraube
No reason to touch that screw unless you’re removing the shield—in which case, this step instructs you to remove it.
The link that was mentioned takes you to the heat shield for iphone 7 plus. There’s a slight difference in the two models.
To clarify: the regular/smaller iPhone 7 has no screw on the far left there. The 7 Plus does, but there’s no need to touch it unless you’re removing the large metal shield covering the back of the display. The procedure in the guide is correct.
So I stripped the screw furthest to the left, how can i possibly remove it now? Can I just buy a new LCD shield and home bracket button and screw and will that work just fine on the new screen replacement? this stripped screw of mine is not coming out
That should work, as long as you can still get the home button/sensor out without damage. For removing a stripped screw this size, I’d probably try supergluing it to the driver—or else just drill the top of the screw off and then remove the bracket, leaving the screw shaft embedded in the old display. Good luck!
I used the same driver for all of these screws. Had to apply a lot of pressure before trying to unscrew it and it was fine.
This is wrong, the size you need is Y00 for the 1.1mm screws and Y000 for the 1.3mm one.
The heads on those screws are identical. I’ve never had any trouble using a Y000 for all of them. Use whatever works for you I guess.
I’ve managed to strip the screw on the right hand side - not the far right, just right of the home button. Any ideas on how to get it out without glue (I don’t have any)
My screwdriver is too big to get out the screws
My eyesight isn’t what it used to be. That said, the replacement screen that arrived already had screws in the two outside positions. It took me a minute to figure this out when I was trying to install the home button. I couldn’t figure out why the screws weren’t going in. I thought the holes were filled or something… Nope. screws. Took them out and used them.. all good.
My 7 had quite a bit of loctite holding these bad boys on. I stripped the one to the right of the home button and after using many “sentence enhancers” I was able to remove it using good tweezers and quite a bit of hand strength. I think that heating up the screws here is not an option because the cables lie underneath the plate and would probably get damaged from the amount of heat needed to loosen the loctite. Be patient here, and maybe have spare Y000 drivers because you may damage your driver getting these screws out.
If your having trouble. I recommend you guys to buy the Y00o driver at amazon. It look golden. It works very will .
Hi all, I’m really hoping someone will be able to give me a hand here, so the 1.1mm screw on top of the home button is stripped, and absolutely refuses to get out. I have tried the superglue technique mentioned and am worried it may have even glued the screw to the bracket. The only solution I can think of is to bend the home button bracket on either side of the middle screw, and use the bracket itself to remove the screw from the home button. I have ordered a new home button bracket either way, does anybody have any other ideas? Should I even attempt what I am proposing?
Thanks in Advance.
This worked for me take a Stanley blade and saw a grove across the screw with the edge ofcourse then heat the home button with hair dryer for a couple of minutes take the blade and press it into the groove you scored and turn it
Paul -
Does the ground strap go over or under bracket?
over the bracket
I magically used an X-acto knife tip to lift the edges of the home button screw to loosen it, and then turned it slightly with the X-acto blade tip in the screw slot to get it started, then the 000 screwdriver could finish it.
I can’t stress how important it is to not overtighten the one on the button. I undertightened the center one at first in fear, and then tightened it more when I realized the button was loose. It ended up ruining the home button :(
I was completely unable to get the screw directly over the homebutton off. I definitely stripped it some. Here’s some tips!
1. If you are trying to unscrew and it skips instead of locking in—STOP. Apply more pressure, and then try again. Keep doing this until it comes out. If you continue turning without doing anything, you’ll strip the head of the screw and end up in a way worse situation.
2. If your screw is stripped, first try putting a rubber band between the screwdriver and the screw to fill the gap. Duct tape has worked for many people as well.
3. If you can’t get the screw directly above the home button off of the home button, I found this video that shows how to remove the home button without unscrewing the screw!! Bend the protective plate up 90° on both sides of the home button so the bent plate now fits through the home button hole. Then you can continue to
the next steps and remove the home button with the plate still attached to it.
Don’t know if I did something wrong, but the home button no longer works. I’ll see if I can get someone to repair it.
Found a software workaround, go to General > Accessibility > Assistive Touch. Now you don’t need the home button to work to use the phone
I enabled assistive touch before making a go on this part. Screws are very small, easy to strip, and difficult to find if they go flying when you;re just trying to seat them properly.
VERY SMART!! I would not have thought of doing that. Depending on what my local repair guy charges I may be doing this myself, but in all honestly if the home button does not work on the new screen I'm getting another phone
I’ve never been so stressed at trying to assemble something, O_O I should really get some glasses. I just reassembled all the screws, tried to not screw too tight, but how does one know? Maybe they could include “only twist 3 times, or 2…and maybe provide an ocular. Those screws are very very very tiny, and yes - be careful, because if you attach the right screw first, the left one can be catapulted if not secured and just “set” waiting to screw in. Thankful for the magnetism, but also had to find myself holding the screw in place while securing or else it would just attach to the screwdriver and come out. I'm TOTALLY looking forward to turning this ON after all assembled based on all the disheartened comments…..oy. Here. We. Go.
There’s a small square rubber piece that has a screw hole in it. does anyone know if it goes over the home button? I missed it when I took it apart, but then , there it is on my table.
It slips over one of the posts that the pentalobe screws in step 1 go through. Like a mitten over a hand. It’s incredibly hard to see where the slit is in that tiny rubber piece though.
What do you do if you overtighten the screws? I assume that is why my home button won't click
How can you tell if you’ve over-tightened the screws or if the home button isn’t working for some other reason (other physical damage, shorted out, etc.)?
Die Schraube auf dem Home-Button ist wohl von Apple gewollt schwer zu entfernen. Man sollte sie daher zuerst herausdrehen; denn, ist die Unterlage unterm iPhone nicht hart genug und man drückt jetzt mit Kraft über den Schraubendreher auf die Schraube, wird der Home-Button hinausgedrückt, dabei verbiegt sich die Halterung und besonders schlimm, das eine untere Flachbandkabel reißt ab und der Home-Button ist unbrauchbar.
So from those that do many repairs what do you think is the percentage of repairs in which the home button doesn't work after moving it to a new screen? 10%? 30%? 70%?
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Heble unter der linken Kante des Steckers vom Home Button Kabel und löse ihn aus seinem Anschluss heraus.
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Wenn der Stecker komplett hochklappt, ohne sich zu lösen dann drücke das Kabel an der Oberkante des Steckers mit dem flachen Ende des Spudgers nach unten und heble gleichzeitig die linke Kante des Steckers hoch. Beschädige nicht das Kabel oder den Stecker, sonst kannst du den Sensor auf Dauer zerstören.
I think you can not do it because your phone is not identify for new cable.
Best thing to do here is to NOT pry up on the connector, but to insert the pry tool on the left side until the connector is dislodged.
Good tip. Worked perfectly. Thx.
Klaus M -
That worked perfectly, thank you!
I did it. :-( i broke it
Anyone having difficulty reconnecting the two ? I’ve been trying for ages with no luck.
Same problem here - can reconnect them once the new LCD is being installed. Not sure what the trick is.
Yes I had to fiddle with it for about 20mins to get it to finally click in place, just don’t apply too much pressure it doesn’t take much, if the alignment of the connector is right you should feel it snap into place. connect the cables together before you screw it in place, also raise the assembly up off the small locator pin until after you get the connectors together. Hope this helps
my Homebutton don´t work after I reconnect all, I checked all flex cables but it still dont work. what can I do?
so, i’m working on an iPhone 7. I was very careful not to break anything, I even bought an iOpener heat pack and applied it, and everything went off without a hitch, but when I tested the button, It does not work, would it help to reconnect it or something?
Thanks a lot!
Broke my cable. The picture is not clear but you have to separate the thin silver end of cable from what looks like a black piece of rubber. I pulled up on it from under the black rubber like the picture shows and broke mine.
This helped me SO much. Watch it before removing home button. Around 4:56ish
Thank you so much!
That’s a very good view. Thank you!
Yup, this video helped me know what people were talking about. It worked and I didn’t rip or break anything…so far XD
Well, I just damaged the home button connector in step 21. It is completely off the cable. What now? Can I buy this connector ?
I’m having a really hard time reconnecting the two together. Any advice?
I used the tweezers in step 21 to separate this connector. I squeezed the tweezers shut then put the flat edge of the points between the connector and slowly released the tweezers. The connector separated really easy.
This tip worked a treat. Thanks!
any tips on reconnecting the connector. I assume it needs to be snuggly fit back in. I can’t seem to connect the two agin. Is it supposed to ‘snap’ together or should I use an adhesive?
Figured it out. I just needed to make sure I aligned them better when feeding the home button backthrough
rwalz -
I found it quite difficult to reconnect the home button cable connector. After putting everything back together, my iPhone said there was an error with the TouchID. I disassembled the phone again, pried off the home button connector and found that I had not lined it up properly with the mated part. I had to push the connector upwards (toward the top of the phone) in order for it to seat properly. It almost felt unnatural to push the connector so far up to make it seat properly. I tested the phone again before reassembling and everything worked fine. If you break the cable on this home button piece, you can only buy a generic home button (about $8 here on Amazon) that will allow you to use the button for navigation but it will not work for TouchID (you will have to use your phone permanently unlocked or use a numeric code to unlock). The original home button is specifically mapped to your phone and cannot be replaced.
Yeah, I couldn't snap it back together either and after giving up a few times, probably the third time I came back to it, about the 10th time trying to line it up, the cable just totally snapped off....
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Heble behutsam den darunterliegenden Stecker hoch und biege ihn aus dem Weg für das Home Button/TouchID Kabel.
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Wenn sich der Stecker nicht leicht hochhebeln lässt, dann erwärme den Kleber des Steckers mit einem Haartrockner oder einem iOpener, versuche es dann nochmals.
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Versuche nicht, den Stecker ganz abzulösen - klappe ihn einfach ein wenig hoch, so dass das darunterliegende Home Button/TouchID Sensorkabel entfernt werden kann.
Make sure that you fold this cable out when fitting your replacement before you fasten the shield back down. I didn’t but managed to loosen 2 screws on the shield to get the cable out.
If you have isopropyl alcohol on hand. You can use it to help weaken the adhesive temporarily when lifting up the adhered home button.
Just one tiny drop of isopropyl alcohol or it will reach the lcd screen.
Heat is absolutely vital during this step. Care should be taken and you should work very slowly. A new playing card will be useful in separating the ribbon from the device, using heat periodically to soften the adhesive as you go along. The ribbon cable changes size between the connector and the button, creating a weak area that can begin to rip if stressed. Use a card flat against the frame to slowly separate the cable from the frame.
The isopropyl alcohol did the trick for me; all it takes is for you to dip the prying tool in a bit of the alcohol and the rest is magic. I did not have to apply heat and I was able to remove the home button from the original screen to transfer it to the new screen without any issue! Be careful, go slow, don't force things, and when it doubt view and review the video and instructions!
Alcohol or Ifixit adhesive remover is the trick. I used the tweezers to dip in the remover and just a smidgen is all you need, start on the connecter side and work towards the button. - On reassembly, I kept the screen protector on and just peeled it up enough to slide the button in, then used it to hold the button in place while I finished up.
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Drehe die Displayeinheit herum. Nimm einen Haartrockner oder bereite einen iOpener vor und erwärme etwa 90 Sekunden lang die Unterkante des Displays, damit der Kleber darunter weich wird.
If you don’t have that heating tool, a hair straightener n a T-shirt worked just fine for me
I did with a heat gun instead. I found the i opener not helpful.
I need just 1 min with my hair drier, then the screen starts to pop and crackle
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Schneide vorsichtig mit einem Plektrum durch den Kleber, der das Home / Touch ID Sensorkabel an der Rückseite des Displays hält.
It cannot be stressed enough that this is the one part of this repair that you can’t screw up. Anything else you’ll deal with during this repair can be easily replaced (The screen, and the sensor/microphone/camera assembly). Tearing this cable means an expensive trip to the apple store. or a very unhappy customer if you’re doing this for someone. Heat is your friend. I don’t even use a spudger or a guitar pick for this one, I use a new playing card to pull this up. Even with the card, you have to be careful. The edge of the playing card can nick the cable if you’re not careful to get it under the ribbon cable. If the adhesive isn’t soft enough for the card to get it up, apply more heat. Again, you can’t screw this step up. It’s all or nothing.
Thanks for the tip! worked great!
Do you know what I need to do if I damage the cable?
Yes playing card is what I used too, worked very well. Just heat it up(I used a 3D printer bed for 30 seconds at 80°). Just go slow from right to left.
Well, no visible damage but the home button won’t work. I contacted a local Apple Authorized Service Center to check options. Since I had personally replaced the screen assembly, they wouldn’t even look at it per Apple policy. They said they would jeopardize their Apple Authorization if they even looked at it. Seems like more of the “Right to Repair” problem to me. Frustrated, but at least I have the accesibility home button working.
Make sure the home button screws aren’t overtightened; that often causes issues. If there’s any damage to the button cable, a repair shop with a skilled microsolderer can patch a new cable on and restore functionality. iPhone 7 home button not working after screen replacement? Worst case scenario, you can also buy a screen repair from Apple, and they’ll include a new home button. I am not a lawyer, but the response you’re describing from the AASP sounds way out of bounds. Good luck!
I don’t know why this step does not include a major warning about it being by far the most challanging step. I started before reading the comments and most likely screwed my home button with it,
I don’t know if it is a broken cable or if it was too much heat later…but I scratched the cable on the first try with the plectrum. It took lots of heat to soften the adhesive and then it worked WAY better for me to start removing the connector from the near side of the home button. And not, as shown, on the far side.
Wish I had known that before - the homebutton ist not working anymore now (and it’s not the screws).
Robert -
Just keep in mind that this is a very delicate step that requires a lot of patience. the part is attached to the body of the phone so firmly and there is no gap to put the opening pick under. So the way I did it was applying a good amount of heat onto the part and not from behind. I did it constantly for 5 minutes, a few minutes at a time, then I pulled the connected up slightly (a little too much pressure on the pull and you will break the wire). Pull it constantly and If the heat has been enough to melt the adhesive, it should come off easily and slowly.
Hi, a little thing to help : i heatened up and then insert a cutter blade to start. Work better
Okay the home button is connected, as touch id works, but I can’t get any motion out of it. I backed off the screws, but that didn’t help. What else can I try?
The home button on an iPhone 7 Plus doesn’t move at all. Anything you feel during normal operation is a small vibration from the Taptic Engine that tricks your brain into thinking the button is moving.
Salve, vorrei un vostro aiuto, ho un problema con il tasto home (il tasto è originale preso dal vecchio display rotto) una volta sostituito il Touch ID funziona perfettamente (l’iPhone si sblocca e legge l’impronta digitale) il tasto invece no (il click per intenderci) cosa può essere? Grazie!
This was a very difficult step… I found using heat wasn't removing the adhesive for my home button. Found a video online that recommended using a playing card and a tiny bit of rubbing alcohol on the corner and slowly sliding it under. I was able to finally remove my home button using this tip.
Heat via hairdryer applied for a solid 3 minutes worked for me.
Thank the stars that I looked at these comments. I managed to do this and transferred the home button successfully. The pick is not good enough to do this job. The suggestion to use a new playing card helped. I also found that if you use a single edged razor to ply apart the bezel from the screen then when you apply heat with the heat gun the bezel will melt and bend a bit out of shape allowing you to use the playing card to lift the home button strip away from the bezel. The adhesive on the old home button strip was enough to stick it to the new screen bezel without having to buy new adhesive.
Thanks for the tip on the new playing card and rubbing some isopropyl alcohol on the corner of the card! I also peeled back the metal plate on the broken screen to get that bracket out of the way for better access to the cable. After applying heat and slowly and steadily working up the cable with the card, the home button popped out in proper working order.
Given that the old screen was already broken. I cut away the part of the screen where the button is, this gave easy access to the side of the ribbon cable which made it simple to gently pry it up and separate it from the plastic case.
After successful screen replacement, returning to give my thanks here. Excellent tips from you all - if you’re using force, you’re doing it wrong. All tips about direct heat, new playing card, bending back the metal bracket on the broken screen, screen protector to hold the replaced home button in place … perfect. Slow and patient, heat and almost no pressurel! Thank you all!
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Entferne die Home/Touch ID Sensoreinheit, indem du sie über die Vorderseite des Displays herausnimmst.
True to this picture, the home button can only be removed (and put back in place) through the front of the LCD assembly.
OHMYGOD! Thank. you for this! After ruining *three* displays while inserting the home button from the back, I finally saw this comment…
In my defense I had no internet access through some of these replacements… but really, I’m sorry to say, this merits a MAJOR warning on the guide.
Cam F -
Had an issue when putting the screen back on, the side where the cables attach would not sit flush. At first I thought the cables were pushing the screen up. Turned out to be the battery cable shield was just a fraction too far down toward home button. After loosening screws, nudging it up slightly and screwing back in, the screen sat flush as it should. In case anyone else has same issue.
My phone is no more turning on after I replace the screen, no reaction if I press home button or power button
This guide is missing the camera transfer and the stupid little black sticker on the earpiece assembly that causes the earpiece not to work if that sticker is not transferred. This guide is wholly incomplete
This guide is meant for the ifixit parts, not other third-party screens.
Since I bought the replacement screen from iFixit and it has NO camera and speaker part anymore, the replacement of those parts should also be in this guide.
And, the replacement of those parts (camera, speaker, true light sensor, and aprox. sensor) is the most difficult!Hannes -
James and @computermason—You’ll want to look up the correct guide for your repair, especially if you’re not using one of the kits for which this guide is designed. The guide for transferring all the smaller components is here.
No home button functionality? I just watched a video on YouTube from two years ago saying that the iPhone 7 and 7+ have to be taken to an Apple repair center for the home button to work. Is this still the case? If so why didn’t you tell me this before I ordered this! Please confirm before I start warning everyone not to purchase from you!
@ghaycock If you’re replacing a screen, the home button will work fine as long as you carefully remove it from the old screen and transfer it to the new one, exactly as explained in the guide. The button itself can’t be replaced without help from Apple (which is why iFixit doesn’t sell home buttons for this model).
@jeffsuovanen If you’re replacing a screen, the home button will work fine as long as you carefully remove it from the old screen and transfer it to the new one, exactly as explained in the guide. The button itself can’t be replaced without help from Apple (which is why iFixit doesn’t sell home buttons for this model).
Jeff Suovanen - 06/11/2019
Jeff Suoven-I bought a new home button from Ifixit for this phone (along with a digitizer assembly) and it doesn’t work.
One thing I don’t see mentioned is the replacement of the rubber gaskets that are on the pentalobe holes. The replacement screen did not come with these on it. I was able to remove them from the OEM screen, but there was no easy way to get them to adhere to the new screen. If they move just a little, you might not be able to properly thread the pentalobe screws. Worst case is that they fall into the body of the phone during this last step of re-assembly. At that point, you’ve already started to have the screen stuck to the adhesive, so you would need to redo the entire adhesive gasket.
You can see the gaskets in this picture: https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/ig...
Here they are near the new screen: https://drive.google.com/open?id=14FwpSB...
Thank you! I was wondering what those things did, and even lost one but later was lucky enough to find it.
I saw one mention about those small gaskets in a guide and now I cannot find it. I was able to slip them off the old screen and onto the new one. I would think this is an important step to help seal those holes for the waterproofing. They should edit these screen replacement guides to include this step. Thanks for mentioning it in this guide.
WARNING: When you reassemble the phone, the little screws… You have to be VERY careful to not put any pressure on them until they’re really well seated, otherwise you will flick the screws into another dimension… they’re so small they literally just vanish out of existence lol. I ended up losing two of the smallest screws, one per bracket, and everything seems fine so far.
The glue/seal is also nearly impossible to get right. Just mash it down into the general area that it belongs if it gets stretched/twisted and can’t go in perfectly. Some glue is better than no glue, just assume that any repaired iPhone isn’t water resistant at all.
The biggest issue I'm having now Is replacing the gasket that goes around the home button. The original one got stretched out and the new on is too thick to seat correctly into the hole without being exposed and potentially coming off of the home button after a while.
I ordered a replacement screen from ifixit, but contrary to the description it arrived without the ancillary parts attached. So I had to transfer the front camera & sensor assembly, and the lcd shield. In case anyone else needs to do this, be sure when transferring the lcd shield that the screen cable sits properly underneath it (ie as far up towards the top of the screen as possible) or else the rectangular block on the cable will foul the loudspeaker.
If this happens, the bottom right corner of the screen will stand very slightly proud of the case, and you will end up with a pressure spot on the screen.
Well I transferred all the parts properly, but the front camera wasn’t working. Reseating it fixed the camera but then when I closed the screen it cracked. I backed out to the old screen which is held together by tape, but miraculously everything including the camera and Touch ID is fine. Better luck next time.
I did not realize that the much cheaper 3rd party replacement I purchased also required the further steps of removing and replacing front facing camera and speaker. I was pretty bummed initially as it looked intense…however i totally pushed through using another ifixit guide and saved $50. My only advice to a first timer would be get a $15 heat gun or the bean bag microwave thing, the hardest part is getting it open.
The cable is more than fragile and immediately broke right off my phone! Mine is no good anymore, but I wanted to warn everyone else just one more time…BE SO SUPER GENTLE and PATIENT…and even then, I’m not totally convinced that it is possible!! I was doing so well, right up to the point when I got to the one part that only Apple can fix and that will totally ruin your repair!!! SHAT!!!
Good Luck all!!!
The ribbon in steps 16 and 17, when reconnecting and sealing the phone, is really something to be careful with. I feel like I smooshed it in, and while the phone works after the replacement, I feel like the right side of the phone, near the power button, isn’t quite set in 100 properly. I wish I would have taken better note of how it looked prior to removing the broken screen. Hopefully, it will settle in better once the adhesive sets. At this point, however, the fact that I got through the process with what I would call 99% success is a win for me. Just be careful of the aforementioned ribbon when setting the new screen on.
The home bottom sensor cable does not plugin into the new screen, if put it back to old screen it plugin nicely and directly , but on the new screen it does not stay, it does not plug in the new screen, what to do?
The comments suggest the home button is well stuck down.
Does the home button need adhesive to stick it back onto the new screen? If so, what do you use/where do you get it?
Thanks
Very disappointed. Front camera and home button not working. And overheating too. I would like a refund Ifixit.
Esta incompleto, falta el desmontaje de los elementos de la parte superior de la pantalla
Did this back in 2021 after using i fix it tutorial on replacing battery i accidentally cracked screen when trying to pry it up with suction device and using spudger which felt wasn’t best tool for the job.
Maybe i didn’t heat up device enough to loosen adhesive enough, who knows it was the first time doing this.
Screen alone much easier than a battery replacement, especially second time around after cracking screen had more awareness of job.
They make good tutorials here always like fixing thins myself then paying more to have someone else do it.
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Schäle das obere rechteckige Stück des Aufklebers auf der LCD Abschirmung ab, um es von dem darunterliegenden Flachbandkabel zu trennen.
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Um die drei 1,1 mm Schrauben auf der einen Seite der EMI Abschirmung des Displays heraus zu drehen, benutze einen Y000 Schrauber.
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Benutze einen Y000 Schraubendreher, um zwei weitere 1,1 mm Schrauben auf der anderen Seite der LCD Abschirmung heraus zu drehen.
I wonder why this part is separated from step 38. You’re doing the same thing on 38 and 39.
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Entferne die 1,8 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, die die EMI Abschirmung unten am Display hält.
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Hebe die LCD Abschirmung an, und drücke dabei gleichzeitig das Flachbandkabel welches darum läuft nach unten.
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Schiebe dieses Kabel durch den Ausschnitt in der LCD Abschirmung und passe dabei auf, dass es nicht hängen bleibt.
What if the black rectangle part that goes around the little silver rectangul is broken
I broke one. It just would not go back around the part, so I just put it around what I could and the phone worked fine. I’m replacing the panel on another one right now that someone else had already replaced, (the girl broke her screen again) and the little black part was just laid on top of the silver part and it worked fine. Don’t have a clue why that little black rectangle is even there. It doesn’t appear to be needed.
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Das LCD mit Touchscreen bleibt übrig.
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Vergleiche dein neues Ersatzteil genau mit dem Originalteil. Möglicherweise musst du fehlende Bauteile übertragen oder Schutzfolien abziehen, bevor du es einbauen kannst.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Entsorge deinen Elektromüll fachgerecht.
Die Reparatur verlief nicht wie geplant? Probiere zunächst einige grundsätzliche Lösungsmöglichkeiten. Auf unserem Antwortenforum findest du Hilfe bei der Fehlerbehebung.
Vergleiche dein neues Ersatzteil genau mit dem Originalteil. Möglicherweise musst du fehlende Bauteile übertragen oder Schutzfolien abziehen, bevor du es einbauen kannst.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Entsorge deinen Elektromüll fachgerecht.
Die Reparatur verlief nicht wie geplant? Probiere zunächst einige grundsätzliche Lösungsmöglichkeiten. Auf unserem Antwortenforum findest du Hilfe bei der Fehlerbehebung.
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18 Kommentare
Step 14 Pic# 3 the second cable damaged , what can i do ?!
If you damaged only the cable and nothing else, replacing the display should solve the problem—it will come with new cables attached.
Has anyone else had trouble getting the Y000 screws out from the bracket over the home/Touch ID sensor? All other Y000 came out no problem. These are fighting me. The driver seems to be spinning in place as if too big. Follow up question. If I strip these screws, any idea how to get them out then?
In my situation the Y screw behind the Home/Fingerprint Button seems to be GLUED ON by design to prevent inexperienced non-certified Apple replacers to remove it. So what I did was left it on to prevent stripping the screw and breaking the button. I just CAREFULLY BENT the metal bracket AT AN ANGLE so that I can maneuver the whole assembly into the hole of the screen and remove it.
I'm having the same issue. I stripped out the home button screw help please!
Usually my replacements go great, but I’m not having any luck this time and I think I may have damaged a connector. I’ve attached the new screen, but it doesn’t turn on. I tried attaching the old and it no longer lights up. If I call the phone, it vibrates, so I know it is working. I also noticed that pressing the power button when it is vibrating from a call does not silence it. So I don’t think that button is working either…
Has anyone else run in to this issue?
Sounds a lot like a blown backlight circuit. Usually when this happens, it’s because the battery wasn’t disconnected properly when removing or installing the display connectors. You can confirm by shining a bright light on the display when the phone is switched on—if you see a faint image, that’s a backlight failure. This is a common issue, and perfectly fixable, but requires board-level repair skills and equipment (read: not a DIY). Good luck!
problem with Y screw
Phew! That was tricky. Had some trouble getting the tri-lobe screws out of the Touch ID assembly - they were done up real tight. Swapping it over and reinstalling in the new digitiser was a breeze.
I assembled the phone (without adhesive) first to test everything. Touch ID, camera and speaker all leapt into life, but the proximity sensor didn’t seem to work. I took the phone apart and dismantled the camera/speaker/proximity sensor assembly, cleaned the contacts, replaced the double-sided insulating tape, and reassembled it. This time I managed to seat the proximity sensor with a positive click, then everything went together easily. I trusted that this had fixed it and went ahead with adhesive installation before finally reattaching the front panel.
Thanks to the author, plus several useful comments, my iPhone 7+ is now fully operational again!
After doing this repair, the new screen has problems with the response to tapping icons, and sliding for shutting down the telephone. I kitnd of have a lack in responsitivity, if it responds at all.
Any suggestions to the reason for this or for a way to fix it? The screen and LDC was bought at iFixit.
Check the connectors in this step. Make sure they’re clean and fully seated. If you still have problems, follow the troubleshooting wiki or contact Customer Service. Good luck!
Procedure works well and is easy to follow. Thank you.
The app is Dr Fone not phone in case someone needs to find the app
The recommendation of discharging the battery is completely unnecessary. Even a 25% charged battery can explode. Completely ridiculous suggestion.
pargoff - Antwort
The risk of thermal runaway on these batteries decreases with the battery's SOC (state of charge). Below 50% charge the risk is fairly low, and at 25% charge the risk of a thermal event is near zero. If I recall correctly, the same suggestion appears in Apple's official (non-public) service manuals for the iPhone.
Jeff Suovanen -
@jeffsu Yes, that is correct. Apple does require all certified staff to discharge the battery below 25%. This is an industry standard for all LiION batteries. If you don’t want to do this, just make sure to not puncture the battery and disconnect it first thing.
iHelpU.Tech - Antwort
Hang on a second here, doesn’t the Ifixit part I ordered come with the seals? The display assembly? It doesn’t. Now I have to wait another week?!
Vanessa Pinter - Antwort
How do you turn off if the screen isn’t responding to touch?
adam - Antwort
The replacement battery came with the seal—but how do you put it on???
lkollar - Antwort
Instructions for replacing the seal are here: Austausch der iPhone Display Klebestreifen
bester - Antwort
I just found the instructions on how to install the seals AFTER I was completed and had to figure it out. Maybe, just maybe you should link this somewhere on the guild instead of buried in a comment. Just a thought.
Charles Meitin - Antwort
Step 1 is: Read through all the steps and comments or the method prior to starting on this Step 1. There's a lot of much needed information and experience that you can learn from which will reduce the chance of struggling, wasting time or even breaking your device.
My favourites are:
Use a hot water bottle.
Label all screws you remove with their size and location on a piece of paper with double sided sticky tape.
Test the lightning assembly at step 13
There is a Standoff driver bit in the box, don't use a screwdriver.
etc...
Neil Eriksen - Antwort
A tip for looking out for all those little screws. I used an ice block tray, for all the little screws etc. I numbered each with the step number, as in the instructions, but not all steps have bits to look out for. Where two different size screws are used I had a tray for each size and marked step a and step b. For this I coloured each tray sticker with the colour of the screw as shown in the instructions. All this worked a treat with no confusion or using the wrong part.
Herb
Herb Adler - Antwort
The screw size for those with a screw set is P2.
Gareth Flandro - Antwort