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Einleitung
Das iPhone 7 Plus benutzt sowohl den Hauptlautsprecher als auch den Ohrhörer-Lautsprecher, um Stereoklang zu erzeugen. Hier wird gezeigt, wie man nur den Hauptlautsprecher unten am iPhone ersetzt. Ein Austausch kann eventuell helfen Probleme wie Tonausfall, schlechte Tonqualität oder verzerrten Klang zu beheben.
Was du brauchst
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Schalte das iPhone aus, bevor du es auseinandernimmst.
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Entferne die zwei 3,4 mm Pentalobe Schrauben an der Unterseite des iPhones.
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Lege einen heißen iOpener eine Minute lang auf die untere Kante des iPhones oder benutze einen Haartrockner, um den Kleber darunter weich zu machen.
How long should I use a hairdryer for?
I used it until it was hot to the touch but not too hot where you burn yourself.
gczarny -
Hey, I just took apart my first iPhone 7 plus today, and it was easier for me to use guitar picks and a magic glass tool. I did tear the home flex on the screen—now I know to be more careful of that on disassembly—-~Katrina of iPad Rehab Microsoldering
Get a T-shirt add heat to a lil corner of it, with either a hair straighter or an Iron , touch the T-shirt if it’s seems hot but doesn’t burn u hold that lil hot piece of T-shirt against the edge ur trying to pry open , if it’s still not opening add a I’ll more heat,
I took a hot water bottle and layed it on the display of the iPhone for a minute, because I did not have an iOpener. That worked for me perfect.
How can I get all this tools
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Setze einen Saugnapf auf die untere Hälfte des Displays, knapp über dem Home-Button.
Hi! My suction cup doesn’t work. It won’t strongly suck on my screen. Does anyone have any advice?
Heat it up just a little with a hair dryer make sure it’s flat , let it coo a bit now try it??
The suction cup you provide sucks. In that it doesn’t hold. Luckily I had a set of heavy duty suction cups from when I worked on my iMac.
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Ziehe den Saugnapf mit festem und konstantem Druck nach oben, bis sich eine kleine Lücke zwischen der Displayeinheit und dem Rückgehäuse bildet.
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Führe die flache Seite eines Spudgers in diese Lücke ein.
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Drehe den Spudger, während du den Saugnapf weiter nach oben ziehst, um die Lücke zwischen Display und Rückgehäuse zu vergrößern.
Be very careful not to pull up with too much force. My screen just shattered while I was pulling up with my suction cup. (There were no previous cracks or chips or anything).
I’m stuck on this part. I’ve heated the bottom up and attached the suction cup right above the home button, but I can’t pull it apart. I feel like I’m going to break the glass display. Tips?
Someone mentioned above, using strong tape helps .
My first 7 Plus opening. I pulled up the screen just enough to insert a thin guitar pick at the bottom of the phone to break the adhesive. I didn’t even create a gap as such. I then ran the pick along the sides to continue to detach the adhesive, just like iFixIt show in Step 10 for the top of the phone.
My screen already had a crack at the bottom, near the home button, so I was nervous about pulling too hard on the screen. It had a screen protector fitted so maybe that helped keep it all together.
iFixIt’s use of a spudger at the bottom of the phone looked hazardous to me, especially with my damaged screen.
This must be a joke. I’ve been trying for days to pull open the iphone like this. Doesn’t work. I bent the ring on the suction cup trying to pull it off, but nothing happens, no gap, not remote possibility of a pick or spudger getting in there.
Ended up using a blowdryer and a razor blade. Bottom got scratched up, but there was no way that fat plastic spudger was going to fit. I got the razor under the corner, from there worked to middle and twisted with repeatedly adding heat. Lots of heat.
Be aware that there is a small connector, under the home button.
I found that the edge of the spudger was too thick, so I sanded it down to almost a knife edge. This made it much easier to insert into the gap.
Use the Opener and a razor blade to cut through the adhesive. It takes about 45 seconds to heat up the Opener in a 1000 watt microwave. Be careful not to damage the thin display ribbon cables on the right side iphone. After you use the razor blade to cut the adhesive on the two sides and bottom you should be able to use the spudger to remove the display screen.
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Führe die flache Seite des Spudgers zwischen dem Front Panel und dem Rückgehäuse an die untere linke Ecke des iPhone.
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Ziehe das Werkzeug von der unteren Ecke die linke Seite hinauf zu den Lautstärketasten und dem Stumm-Schalter und löse so den Kleber, der das Display hält.
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Entferne das Werkzeug von der linken Seite des iPhones und setze das flache Ende in die Ecke rechts unten ein.
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Ziehe die flache Seite des Werkzeugs entlang der rechten Seite nach oben, um den Klebestreifen zu lösen, der das Display fixiert.
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Ziehe am Saugnapf, um das Display anzuheben und das iPhone zu öffnen.
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Fahre mit einem Opening Pick unter dem Display am oberen Rand des iPhones entlang, um den restlichen Klebstoff zu lösen.
I couldn't find the pick in the tool set, so made my own. Then I found the original in the battery box. %#*@.
Same thing for me
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Ziehe die Displayeinheit etwas von der oberen Kante des Telefons weg, um die Clips zu lösen, die sie am Rückgehäuse halten.
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Öffne das iPhone, indem du das Display von der linken Seite her aufklappst, wie die Rückseite eines Buches.
So if I broke the cable that connects the display to the logic board. What replacement part would I need to order now?
Probably the screen
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Entferne die folgenden Dreipunkt Y000-Schrauben, die die Blende des unteren Displaykabels am Logic Board fixieren:
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Drei 1,2mm Schrauben
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Eine 2,6mm Schraube
Is it really safe to lay the device fully open like a book? The cable leading to the LCD gets stretched across the sharp edge of the aluminum edge of the back cover.
Generally I'd say no, it's not safe. In reality I've seen a bit of variance in the cable length, and sometimes it'll be fine—but mostly I'd be prepared to prop the display up or hold it in place at a slight angle so it doesn't put too much stress on the cables. On prior iPhones it was easy to rubberband the display to a box or a can of soda, and something like that would probably work well here too. Use your own judgment.
You could stick the suction cup back on, near the right side of the phone, with the blue hook oriented in such a way that it becomes a stand for the screen. That way it won’t open much more than 90 degrees, and leaves both your hands free.
Mark -
The tri wing screws are so hard to remove. What's the trick?
I cannot remove one of the corner screws in this step and i have used the tweezers and the y000 tri tip and i am afraid that it is stripping it. is there a work around for this step?
@katmonday1 No workaround unfortunately. Make sure the driver tip is in good condition and fits the screw correctly. Seat it in the screw, hold the driver perfectly vertical, press down hard (and maintain it), and turn. It’ll come out. If it’s really stripped you’ll have to get more aggressive—try one or more of the techniques in this guide or get some help. Good luck!
A tip to remember which screw is which as the differences are pretty tiny: I used different colored sharpie fine-points and made a mark on the top of the screws before removing. I thought about having strips of tape that I stuck similar sizes to, but the coloring seemed to work more easily. I only did this for step 11 and it saved me down the road when trying to differentiate the 1.2 and the 1.3mm screws!
STOP! Before you remove Any screws, be sure to create several bins to hold the various sizes in… or mark them like Trey suggested. I failed to pay attention because I thought they were all the same… they are not. It is very hard to figure out the sizes if you remove them all and store them in a single location.
i had a piece of paper with the steps numbered that involved screws. I had double sided tape on the paper and the number of screws and thier position marked. This was so helpful in removing and then finding and installing the tiniest screws on earth. And i have TINY hands. I can’t imagine someone with large paws being able to accomplish any of this.
there is one screw thats 1.2 mm but its bigger than the others and will fit in no hole of the entire phone. i got it out bot now i have no idea where it has to go i tried every hole. can somebody help me?
what do i do if one of the screws dont want to come off
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Entferne die Blende des unteren Displaykabels.
I am confused, please help. LOL the bracket, the very first one being removed. I see it has three screws the same size and one a different size? I've been trying to fix my daughter's phone and ordered a 0.6 mm Tri Wing screwdriver for iPhone 7 plus /Apple watch. It seems to fit the screws and it seems to be turning them although I can't see that well but they're not coming out. However when I used it on a smaller bracket with two screws they came right out so I'm thinking I don't have the right screwdriver I am at my Wit's End!! I have been working on this phone or attempting to for a while now. I cannot find a list anywhere of the exact size screwdrivers needed to Take apart an iPhone 7 plus. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
If your tri-wing screwdriver worked for other tri-point screws in the phone, then it should work for the screws you are struggling with! If it feels like the screws are spinning but not coming out, try to use tweezers to pull them out. I often struggle with tri-point screws, and need to apply some downward pressure to remove them. This can be risky though, as you do not want to strip the screw or damage components underneath the bracket. If you continue to struggle, you can give this driver and this bit a try.
Also be aware that the battery connector might stick to the bottom of the steel bracket. This part had me a bit puzzled at first. lol
Just gently pry the connector off the steel bracket to release it and be sure the connector isn’t allowed to accidentally reconnect to the board.
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Mit der Spitze eines Spudgers kannst du den Batterieanschluss aus seinem Stecker auf dem Logic Board heben.
on reassembly, make sure that the connector cable is back in place, along side the battery, and not up, or on top in any way.
I slipped a small piece of paper under the flap.
After this step it is worth jumping to step 36 and disconnecting the lighting connector assembly (indicated with the orange rectangle) and connecting the new cable to test it out. After attaching the new lightning connector assembly, reattach the battery, and try plugging it in to see if the new assembly works correctly. If it does, then power down the phone, disconnect the battery, and disconnect the new lightning connector assembly. Then continue. If it doesn’t work, this check will save you a couple of hours of work.
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Nutze das flache Ende eines Sprudgers oder einen Fingernagel, um die beiden unteren Displaystecker aus ihren Buchsen auf dem Logic Board zu hebeln.
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Wenn du nach dem Zusammenbau kein Bild hast, das Display nur weiße Zeilen zeigt oder die Touchfunktion teilweise oder ganz ausgefallen ist, dann löse noch einmal diese beiden Kabel und verbinde sie neu. Achte darauf, dass sie gut sitzen.
What can happen if the battery is not disconnected before the two lower display connectors?
Hello, by my expierence and what i have learned iphone repair videos you can ‘blow up’ capacitors which one in logic board, screen is sensetive with voltages and etc….
When I removed the lower display cable bracket in step 12, the top connector stuck to the bracket and became disconnected.
My replacement screen wouldn't sit in the display connector properly, (wouldn't clip in both sides at same time) so I made sure it sat on one and it was lined up and got a thin piece of dense sponge and placed that over the connector, then proceeded to install the connector shield and screen works perfectly fine without a hitch. Very good tutorial just earnt me £25 lol
have the same issue, sometimes it doesn’t sit on the left side, other time not on the other, the difference is iphone not starting at all or looping with apple logo reboot…
ibisiki -
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Entferne die drei Dreipunkt Y000 Schrauben, mit denen die Abdeckung über der Buchse für den Sensor des Front Panels befestigt ist.
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Eine 1,3mm Schraube
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Zwei 1,0mm Schraube
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Entferne die Abdeckung.
Posted a comment above on the first step. The screwdriver that I ordered Works taking out these two screens shown in the picture. However it does not work on the first bracket that needs to be removed. It seems that all screw sizes are somewhat different but I'm not finding a list showing different screwdriver sizes needed. Does this make sense? Could anybody please give me some advice on this thank you much.
What happens if you break “tear in half” the black tape stuff?
Unfortunately if you tear the black cable you will need to replace it !!!
Chris West the screwdriver that probably came with the kit was pentalobe to get the first two screws out to open the case. you need a .6mm Y tip driver for internal. its deceptively Phillips looking but is not it only has three blades in a Y, not 4 in a +
I called the y tip a triangle tip until I read these comments. Thanks for the correction
Hello is it if I put wrong screw can damage the board?
Care should be taken while removing the last 1.0mm screw, on the far right in the picture. This screw is screwed into another screw (or standoff) beneath the bracket. This standoff may come unscrewed and upon removing the bracket you may find the screw and standoff are still attached to the bracket. Do not lose this part if you decide to separate them , the standoff is not a normal phillips, and may require a special driver to reinstall. I used the phillips to start it back in, and relied on the screw to tighten it upon reassembly.
I know this is late bit a trick I use to put the standoffs in (had to do 2 cause someone lost the screws I was replacing) is to take the screw that goes in it srew them together loosely to give it a fake phillips head then gently screw both into the spot the standoff goes in. you can then take the phillips out (may need to put a spudger between the screw and standoff to keep the standoff down then use a tiny flathead to gently tighten the standoff down. its a few steps but makes life easier if you need to replace it quickly.
I was able to remove the first 1.0 mm three tri-point Y000 screw from the bracket but I cannot for the life of me get the other 1.0 mm screw undone or the one 1.3 mm screw undone. Any tips?
I tried pressing down a bit harder and I even put the first screw back in to see if it helped me loosen the other two but it did not work.
My screwdriver was doing the job up until this point, and I’m worried I’ll strip the screw if I keep trying.
Would appreciate any advice!
Dear IFixit: First, I want You to know I love your repair guides. I consider You to be the absolute best repair manuals available. But, hopefully as your friend I am going to point out once the bracked is removed a 2.0 mm Standoff screw should appear. It’s 1 of 2 screws holding the Antena Flex Cable in place. Rob
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Ziehe den Stecker der Front Panel Sensoreinheit aus der entsprechenden Buchse auf dem Logic Board.
Make sure that the orientation of the cable when you attach is correct! See the picture for the correct orientation. If it gets installed 180 degrees out(i.e., the ribbon goes up instead of down, then the earphone, front camera, and Home button will be inoperative. Ask me how I know!?! Worked great when installed correctly!
Thanks Kevin. I would be stuck if I hadn't read your comment!?! Great input.
That's save my life!thanks god!
neg -
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Entferne die Displayeinheit.
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Unterbrich hier während des Zusammenbaus wenn du den Klebstoff um die Kanten des Displays ersetzen willst.
When removing the old adhesive from the edges, duct tape can be useful. Simply use small strips of duct tape and your spudger to press the tape’s adhesive side carefully into the edges of the phone’s display and slowly peel the duct tape away from the display. The duct tape should pick up the remaining adhesive and carry it away from the edges. use the tip of the spudger to gently scrape away any remaining dirt or film from the crease around the edge and repeat the action with a new strip of tape to pick up any dirt, adhesive or grime from the surface. This should save considerable time.
Thank you for including a link to the iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement guide, this was very helpful!
is it really necessary to remove the display? the screen connectors are delicate and I fear re-assembly errors. I changed the battery and did not remove any screen connectors. no problems.
Due to the fact that THIS is the repair guide for replacing the DISPLAY it IS necessary to remove the display connectors. There is another guide for changing the battery -- you might want to follow that one.
Hannes -
I did not remove the display and ended up ripping one of the lower display cable ribbons when I turned the phone to remove one of the connectors. Be careful. I had to get a new display and move the Touch ID button.
I think that moving the replacement of the seal lower in the chain of events would be more beneficial. I'm replacing the battery, and stretching the adhesive tabs that held the battery in at a low angle kept sticking themselves to the newly-installed adhesive seal.
In the end, I wound up having to just remove the section of the seal along the bottom of the case :-/
If I'd been looking at the bigger picture, I'd have wanted to put the seal on right before reattaching the screen cables.
This guide does not show you the removal process for the top camera assembly. My screen looks like the one pictured but my replacement doesn't have the top connector or any of the front facing camera components and since the ribbon for the connectors looks like its coming out from underneath the display I can't see how to swap it over to the new display.
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Benutze ein dünnes Hebelwerkzeug oder eine Pinzette, um vorsichtig das obere Koaxialkabel vom Logic Board abzulösen.
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Ziehe das eben gelöste Kabel sorgfältig aus der kleinen Metallklammer, mit der es am Logic Board befestigt ist.
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Benutze eine Pinzette oder die Spudgerspitze, um beide Koaxialkabel aus der Metallklammer zu lösen, mit der sie an der Seite des Lautsprechers befestigt sind.
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Entferne die fünf Kreuzschlitzschrauben, die den Lautsprecher befestigen:
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Drei 1,3 mm Schrauben
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Eine 2,3 mm Schraube
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Eine 3,3 mm Schraube
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Erwärme den Bereich um den unteren Lautsprecher, wo die Antenne angebracht ist, mit einem iOpener, einem Haartrockner oder einem Heißluftgebläse, bis du ihn grade nicht mehr anfassen kannst.
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Schiebe ein Plektrum an der rechten Seite zwischen die Antenne und den Lautsprecher und löse vorsichtig den Kleber darunter.
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Drehe den Lautsprecher und setze das Plektrum auf der gegenüberliegenden Seite ein.
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Trenne alle restlichen Klebeverbindungen auf, welche noch die Antenne festhalten.
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Erwärme, falls nötig, den Kleber, damit er sich leichter lösen lässt.
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Entferne die Wi-Fi Diversity Antenne vom Lautsprecher.
hey broo i need help through my phone is week to connect to the wifi bluetooth even normal network it want me to be near router au very close with bluetooth device whats should i do please…..?
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Vergleiche dein Ersatzteil mit dem Originalteil. Möglicherweise musst du fehlende Komponenten übertragen oder Schutzfolien vom Neuteil abziehen, bevor du es einbauen kannst.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Entsorgen deinen Elektroabfall fachgerecht.
Die Reparatur hat nicht den gewünschten Erfolg gebracht? Dann schaue mal in unseren Antwortforen, da kannst du Hilfe finden.
Vergleiche dein Ersatzteil mit dem Originalteil. Möglicherweise musst du fehlende Komponenten übertragen oder Schutzfolien vom Neuteil abziehen, bevor du es einbauen kannst.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Entsorgen deinen Elektroabfall fachgerecht.
Die Reparatur hat nicht den gewünschten Erfolg gebracht? Dann schaue mal in unseren Antwortforen, da kannst du Hilfe finden.
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6 Kommentare
Hi, I have completed this but the speaker option is still not available and am not able to record videos, and basically not able to hear anything when placing a call. should i replace the earpiece speaker as well?
Thank you Jeff! I followed this guide and everything went smoothly. Used this to fix my friend’s iPhone when her phone went silent. She says everything is working as it should be. Thanks again from her and I.
People still can’t hear me when I call. However, if I switch to loudspeaker they can. Did I miss a connection or do I need another part?
The recommendation of discharging the battery is completely unnecessary. Even a 25% charged battery can explode. Completely ridiculous suggestion.
pargoff - Antwort
The risk of thermal runaway on these batteries decreases with the battery's SOC (state of charge). Below 50% charge the risk is fairly low, and at 25% charge the risk of a thermal event is near zero. If I recall correctly, the same suggestion appears in Apple's official (non-public) service manuals for the iPhone.
Jeff Suovanen -
@jeffsu Yes, that is correct. Apple does require all certified staff to discharge the battery below 25%. This is an industry standard for all LiION batteries. If you don’t want to do this, just make sure to not puncture the battery and disconnect it first thing.
iHelpU.Tech - Antwort
Hang on a second here, doesn’t the Ifixit part I ordered come with the seals? The display assembly? It doesn’t. Now I have to wait another week?!
Vanessa Pinter - Antwort
How do you turn off if the screen isn’t responding to touch?
adam - Antwort
The replacement battery came with the seal—but how do you put it on???
lkollar - Antwort
Instructions for replacing the seal are here: Austausch der iPhone Display Klebestreifen
bester - Antwort
I just found the instructions on how to install the seals AFTER I was completed and had to figure it out. Maybe, just maybe you should link this somewhere on the guild instead of buried in a comment. Just a thought.
Charles Meitin - Antwort
Step 1 is: Read through all the steps and comments or the method prior to starting on this Step 1. There's a lot of much needed information and experience that you can learn from which will reduce the chance of struggling, wasting time or even breaking your device.
My favourites are:
Use a hot water bottle.
Label all screws you remove with their size and location on a piece of paper with double sided sticky tape.
Test the lightning assembly at step 13
There is a Standoff driver bit in the box, don't use a screwdriver.
etc...
Neil Eriksen - Antwort
A tip for looking out for all those little screws. I used an ice block tray, for all the little screws etc. I numbered each with the step number, as in the instructions, but not all steps have bits to look out for. Where two different size screws are used I had a tray for each size and marked step a and step b. For this I coloured each tray sticker with the colour of the screw as shown in the instructions. All this worked a treat with no confusion or using the wrong part.
Herb
Herb Adler - Antwort
The screw size for those with a screw set is P2.
Gareth Flandro - Antwort