Einleitung
Wenn du ein defektes Display reparieren willst, aber dein Ersatzteil schon mit der dünnen LCD-Metallabschirmung versehen ist, solltest du dieser einfacheren Anleitung folgen. Wenn dagegen die Metallabschirmung fehlt, dann lies weiter — in dieser Anleitung erfährst du, wie das Display ersetzt und die alte Metallabschirmung weiter verwendet wird.
Die Baugruppe aus Ohrhörer-Lautsprecher und Sensoren, die sich auf der Rückseite des Displays befindet, ist ab Werk mit deinem individuellem iPhone gekoppelt. Du musst sie daher bei jedem Displaywechsel vom alten Display auf das neue übertragen. Die Einheit enthält auch den "flood illuminator", - ein Infrarotblitzlicht - welches zum biometrischen Face ID Sicherheitssystem gehört. Wenn die Einheit beschädigt oder ausgetauscht wird, funktioniert die FaceID nicht mehr. Sei deswegen besonders vorsichtig und beschädige bei der Reparatur keines dieser Bauteile. Im Schadensfall kann nur Apple selbst FaceID wiederherstellen.
Hinweis: Die True Tone funktioniert nach einem Austausch des Displays nicht mehr, selbst wenn original Apple Ersatzteile verwendet werden.
Was du brauchst
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Schalte dein iPhone aus, bevor du anfängst.
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Entferne die beiden 6,7 mm langen Pentalobe Schrauben an der Unterkante des iPhones.
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Wenn das Display deines iPhones gesprungen ist, kannst du es mit Klebeband abkleben, damit es nicht weiter zersplittert und du dich nicht daran verletzt.
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Platziere Klebestreifen überlappend über die gesamte Oberfläche des Displays.
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Falls der Saugheber in den nächsten Schritten durch das gesplitterte Glas nicht gut anhaftet, empfiehlt es sich, ein Stück starkes Klebeband so zu falten, dass es als Griff benutzt werden kann, um das Display anzuheben.
How to detect my Iphone what screen it is, OLED or LCD?
It’s OLED. You can find the specs here, https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201296
When you find your phone, at the bottom of the description click on, See the tech specs…
mcr4u2 -
The included suction cups were stiff and worthless. They would not lift the screen. Also, I tried every type of tape on the screen to help the suction cups stick without success. Heavy duty suction cups were for my bathroom also failed. However, I had an old GoPro mount with some preapplied double sided 3M VSB tape and stuck that on the screen near the bottom. Magic! This method had the added bonus of being able to use a GoPro attachment as a handle to lift the screen, and propped up the screen like a kickstand in step 12.
Very cool! Thanks
Antonio -
My screen was pretty stuck… would not budge. Heated, super glued the suction cup, tried gorilla tape. Ended up doing the GoPro mount with 3M VSB tape method mentioned. Worked great. That 3M tape is the bomb.
If you have flat feeler gauges (for adjusting engine valve tappet clearance, ignition points … old school) the .003 thick goes right in. Work your way up until you can get the pick or supplied pry tool in.
where can I buy 3M VSB plis!!
3M VHB tape is at auto stores and other big box stores, or online.
nicO -
I used the tweezers that came with the replacement screen and jammed one of them into the glass and that eventually worked. Heating with a blow dryer is also important. The suction cup was helpful in loosening the adhesive for sure, but just not enough to get the display to come out.
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Überdecke die Glasscheibe des Displays komplett mit überlappenden Streifen von durchsichtigem Paketband.
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Wenn das Glas so stark zerbrochen ist, dass der Saugheber in den nächsten Schritten nicht gut haftet, dann versuche ein starkes Klebeband ("Panzerband") zu einem Griff zu falten und so auf die Scheibe zu kleben, dass du sie damit hochziehen kannst.
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Drücke den blauen Griff zurück, damit die Arme der Anti-Clamp frei beweglich werden.
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Schiebe die Arme über die linke Kante des iPhones.
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Bringe die Saugheber nahe an der Unterkante des Displays an, einen auf der Vorderseite, den anderen auf der Rückseite.
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Drücke die Saugheber zusammen, so dass sie auf den Oberflächen haften.
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Drücke den blauen Griff vorwärts, damit die Arme wieder fest sind.
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Drehe den Griff eine volle Umdrehung im Uhrzeigersinn, oder bis du merkst, dass sich die Saugheber dehnen.
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Erwärme einen iOpener und führe ihn durch die Arme der Anti-Clamp.
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Forme den iOpener so, dass er auf der Unterkante des iPhones liegt.
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Warte eine Minute, damit sich der Kleber allmählich ablösen und sich ein Spalt bilden kann.
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Wenn die Anti-Clamp einen ausreichend breiten Spalt erzeugt hat, setze ein Plektrum unter das Display ein.
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Überspringe die nächsten drei Schritte.
Please UPDATE THIS STEP to say 'insert the opening pick underneath the PLASTIC FRAME OF THE SCREEN' and not the screen. Way too many people are taking this as the way to do it then posting their screen looks different when it's open when they've actually removed the screen leaving the frame in place. It's not rocket science.
Thanks for the suggestion! We updated this step to clarify that.
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Benutze einen Fön oder eine Heißluftpistole oder bereite einen iOpener vor und erwärme damit etwa eine Minute lang die Unterkante des iPhones, um den Kleber darunter aufzuweichen.
An alternative to the Iopener or heat gun is to heat water to EXACTLY 80 degrees F (cooking thermometer is great for this) and pour into a reinforced ziplock type bag. Leave the bag on the screen, but be sure that none of the hot water rests on the zipper portion, as the water is hot enough to soften that seal and leak out on to your device! This meat had is my personal favorite as the heat is distributed very equally and precisely as compared to a heat gun, but is more accessible than the Iopener.
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Wenn du einen einzelnen Saugheber verwendest, setzte ihn an der unteren Kante des iPhones auf, aber nicht im gebogenen Bereich des Glases ganz unten.
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Ziehe fest und gleichmäßig am Saugheber und erzeuge dadurch einen kleinen Spalt zwischen Frontpanel und Rückgehäuse.
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Setze ein Plektrum in den Spalt unter dem Display und der Kunstoffblende ein, nicht am Display selbst.
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Schiebe das Plektrum um die untere linke Ecke und die linke Kante des iPhones nach oben, und durchtrenne so den Kleber, mit dem das Display befestigt ist.
I think it's important to note that depending on how a screen was damaged, make sure to insert the pic under the black bezel directly under the actual screen. This bezel is a frame around the digitizer. I unknowingly inserted the pic between the bezel and the screen, and separated them both. I did this all the way around the phone. So I basically had to struggle to keep together two different sections of the display assembly because of this mishap, until I removed all the ribbon connectors. It made things much more difficult.
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Setze dein Plektrum wieder an der Unterkante des iPhones ein und schiebe es an der rechten Seite nach oben, um den Kleber durchzutrennen.
My replacement screen for the XR has a black rim but it looks pink. Is that normal?
Step 11 says not to insert your pick around the right side to avoid damaging cables, then Step 12 says to insert it on the right side. Help, I'm confused!
Hi there!
Thank you for the feedback! The wording in step 11 was definitely ambiguous, so we have changed it! You only need to avoid the marked spots rather than the right edge.
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Schiebe das Plektrum um die obere Ecke des Displays und ziehe das Display gleichzeitig, eventuell mit einer leicht wackelnden Bewegung, nach unten in Richtung Lightning Anschluss.
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Schiebe das Plektrum zur gegenüberliegenden Ecke und durchtrenne den gesamten restlichen Kleber, mit dem das Display noch befestigt ist.
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Öffne das iPhone, indem du das Display von der linken Seite her hochklappst, wie einen Buchdeckel.
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Lehne das Display gegen einen Gegenstand, damit es abgestützt ist, während du daran arbeitest.
sure looks like the "hinge" is on the right hand side to me.. not left...!
If you leave the suction cup attached to the screen during the “hinging” process, it makes for a very handy holder for the screen until it’s completely detached.
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Entferne die drei 1,2 mm Y000 Schrauben, mit denen die Abdeckung des Akkusteckers befestigt ist.
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Entferne die Halterung.
Definitely make sure all three lobes of your tool are aligned before use (it’s a little harder to tell with this style of bit) and apply even and adequate pressure to ensure it grabs as you spin the driver to prevent disfiguring the lobes/slot of the screw head.
Unfortunately my Y000 tool was perhaps not the best fit (tolerance a bit off) in these screws and I ended up stripping out the heads of all three of these. I started to panic but after I sanded the tip of my Y000 bit down a little with super fine grit (1000CW-C) sand paper to flatten the domed tip (visible with macro lens) and give it a bit more bite I was able to remove and reinstall without issue—in fact I had to remove and install them twice since I forgot my adhesive tape during reassembly, so the screws survived and the sanded bit worked.
+1 to above comment. I bought a cheap kit from Amazon and the Y000 screw driver is not good for this job. I’m concerned that I may have disfigured the heads and i type this comment in the midst of my fix :D Be gentle and assess if you can remove at least one screw with your driver before rummaging through all three and other similar screws holding display connector as well.
Update to above comment. I got hold of a Y0.8 screw driver bit (lucky to find an ORIA screw driver kit in my office) and it works like wonders :) Now back to work…
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Heble den Akkustecker mit der Spudgerspitze aus seinem Anschluss.
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Biege den Stecker leicht vom Logic Board weg, um zu vermeiden, dass er sich versehentlich wieder mit dem Anschluss verbindet und so dein iPhone während der Reparatur mit Strom versorgt.
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Entferne die beiden 1,2 mm Y000 Schrauben, mit denen die Halterung des Displaysteckers befestigt ist.
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Entferne die Halterung.
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Heble das Touchscreenkabel mit der Spudgerspitze hoch und löse es ab.
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Trenne den Stecker des Displaykabels mit der Spudgerspitze.
The new display cable isn’t snapping in but I was just able to snap in the old one. Did I break the new one somehow?
Same it is really frustrating, just keeps slipping up and its bound to get damaged
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Entferne die fünf Schrauben, mit denen die Halterung des Logic Board Steckers am Rückgehäuse befestigt ist:
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Eine 1,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube #000
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Eine 1,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube #000
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Drei 1,2 mm Y000 Schraube
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Entferne die Halterung.
I’m not sure it makes much if any difference, but we went ahead and swapped the order for you guys. Thanks for your comments!
I just repaired another XR, and you are right! It doesn’t make any differnerce in the order these screws come out. I still damaged this fragile piece. As I work on more of these, I’ll figure out a way to remove this screw without damaging the clip. For now everyone, just use extra caution when removing the 1.3mm phillips screw! Thanks Jeff
I’ve now done at least 6 of these so far and I have fairly consistent good results by taking the 2 Philips head screws out first, then doing the Y screws.
Stow -
Is this piece important for the repair if broken? I have broken it on a home repair. What is it used for? Is it a grounding connection or is it completely unimportant. More information needed please
I’m wondering that too. Is this piece important?
I can confirm that taking out the 1.3 mm screw first then the 1.5 mm screw works the best. If done correctly, you should be able to to remove the rest of the screws and pull the panel off with the clip still attached to the panel. For reassembly, start with the 1.5 mm screw then the 1.3 mm screw.
I don’t remove the small screw at all. I just slide out the metal cover plate and slide back in to reassemble.
this is what i have done as well. Care is still needed to avoid damaging this part. However, it is seemingly far less prone to damage or loss and thus less risky for this repair process.
I too broke this shield. In looking over this problem I believe it’s best to loosen, but not remove, either screw first then the other. To be clear, loosen the red or yellow screw but only just to break it free, then the second screw. Then remove both and the others and the shield should remain in one piece. I put it back with the broken part (on the red screw) and made sure the two are in contact so there’s conductivity as these shields serve a purpose other than just holding in connectors. My phone works fine with this fix.
Is this small bracket important if broken??
Mine is broken
Mine is broken and my apple pay doesn’t work. Something to do with NFC antenna this little clip??
I'm guessing so. I replaced a screen on a phone I bought from a friend. I noticed this bracket was broken when I disassembled the phone but didn't think much of it. When I reassembled it my NFC also does not work. Bummer. A lot of people in these comments have asked if it is crucial that this bracket be connected. Can someone from iFixit or other please reply to those comments?
Kyaw-Zin is right because the shield contains of two tin parts. But there is another option:
1. Unscrew the yellow and orange screws first.
2. Lift the shield gently that it can turn about 20° anticlockwise.
3. Open the red screw and let the shield turn with it the first degrees.
The first time I did this repair, I didn’t see the comments ahead of time and broke the bracket, even removing the 1.3mm screws first. The second time I did the repair, I was prepared and being extra careful, but the simple act of turning the 1.3mm screw head was enough to break it. If I ever have to do this repair again, I’ll just leave the screw in and try to slide the plate out with the screw (and bracket, hopefully) still in tact, as per Kyaw-Zin Win.
None of the screw driver bits I got fits the 1.3mm and 1.5mm screws. How do I remove them?
Same issue as above. The bits provided in the kit do not work with the 1.3mm and 1.5mm screws
Further to above comment about bit not working. Had to go and purchase another PH000 from Home Depot and that worked
I’ve broken that little bracket attached to the red screw. Is it important and can I get a replacement????? Thanks all
Broken the clip. Is this important??
Don't remove the 1.3 Phillips screw! Twisting this screw will break the smaller bracket that is clipped to the larger. Remove all the other screws. Block the smaller bracket from moving as you gently slide the larger bracket horizontally toward the battery until free. The smaller bracket can stay in place while the screen is replaced. When reassembling, support the small bracket by backing with a spudger or similar tool.
I just broke the smaller bracket also :( I didn´t notice these comments until now :(
It looks like part of the antenna for NFC, as all except NFC works on my iPhone now.
It should be repairable using some wire wrap wire, either twisted around the two screws that connected that part of the bracket (or soldered in place). I will try and report back if it works.
Success!! I managed to re-construct the small arm of the bracket by screwing the 1.3mm screw back in with some 0.3mm enamel wire soldered into what was left of the small bracket arm on the screw, then the other end of the enamel wire I wrapped under the 1.5 wire screw's head (enamel exposed to bare metal), then screwed both screws down. also I lifted up the small metal arm with a screw driver (to make sure it reconnects with the display grounding square) ..and NFC worked again (slightly different antenna pattern mind (need to place cards slightly higher up the rear of the phone). Anyway works again :)
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Heble den Stecker der Frontsensorgruppe mit der Spudgerspitze aus seinem Anschluss.
During testing, make sure your proximity sensor is not on upside down, as it’s easy to connect upside down. Your phone will boot loop if it’s on incorrectly.
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Entferne die Displayeinheit.
unclear if this is where screen removal ends
I had the same question, but the answer is yes. Steps 21-30 are removing parts from the original screen that need to be reattached onto the new screen. You are no longer working inside the frame, but on the back of the screen itself.
I apologize for missing these comments initially, but yes that’s correct, the screen is removed now and the rest of the guide goes on to other parts, either in the phone or on the back of the screen. Good luck with the repair!
The alternate method of removing the battery should be highlighted as a standard option. There is so much more work and potential to damage the parts than if you left them in place and carefully with plenty of heat remove the battery. I so wish I had seen this before!
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Entferne die vier Schrauben, mit denen die Lautsprecher/Sensor-Einheit auf der Rückseite des Displays befestigt ist:
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Zwei 1,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben
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Eine 2,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube
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Eine 1,2 mm Y000 Schraube
Do you really need to do step 21-30, because it says to replace, do it in reverse. Which means you are taking the components off and putting them back on without touching the screen? sorry if this is a dumb question, i’ve never done this before.
Good question! It depends on which guide you are completing. If you are replacing the screen, you do need to complete steps 21-30, in order to remove the front assembly and transfer it to your replacement screen. The front assembly contains the Face ID hardware, which is biometrically linked to the logic board.
Now, if you are completing other guides, you may not need to remove the front assembly. Guides should have the steps slotted in only if they are pertinent to the procedure.
I had the same question, but the answer is yes. Steps 21-30 are removing parts from the original screen that need to be reattached onto the new screen. You are no longer working inside the frame, but on the back of the screen itself.
Im reassembling and notice there are no threaded screw holes to secure the speaker/sensor assembly on the new display. no way to secure it at all. Do i not need to secure it?
Hi Ashley,
There should definitely be screw holes to secure the assembly to the new display. If you purchased the part from iFixit, please contact our customer support, and we will sort things out for you!
Please contact our customer support and we will get the issue resolved!
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Klappe die Lautsprecher-Einheit vorsichtig mit einer Pinzette um - nach unten und weg von der Oberkante des Displays.
I don’t understand. It clearly appears that one should stop disassembling after this step. Peeling off the tape here should provide access to the solder connections. Why remove a bunch of other adhered parts? ESD concerns?
Of course, taking care not to transmit heat to the screen assembly below would be prudent. But it’s unlikely much if any heat would conduct even without using any sort of insulating spacer, assuming one’s soldering technique is acceptable. With a thermal mass that small, overheating the connection is the big concern. Especially since it is lead-free solder.
(It has a high melting point. If you didn’t already know that, this is definitely not the best project to develop your soldering skills! You can still do it, but should def practice on similar connections until you feel proficient. Lifting a pad or overheating a nearby component are both dangers. Yet, the cost of the part is low enough you could buy two (just in case) and still come out ahead of Apple’s fee. Use flux or you’ll struggle!)
Hey Ryan,
You are right in that after this step, you could de-solder and replace the earpiece individually, if you choose to do some careful de-soldering and soldering. Alas, not everyone has the background and skill to do so! By instructing users to replace the complete assembly, we bypass the need to solder, and allow a wider audience to successfully complete the repair.
When reassembling or placing the whole sensor module on a replacement screen, make sure to gently rock the speaker back into place. There is a rubber gasket lip around the speaker that must be seated all of the way against the screen and speaker grill to function properly. You should feel a gentle click when is goes in. If is not seated correctly it still easily can be screwed in making it difficult to tell if the speaker is in correctly.
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Benutze einen Fön, eine Heißluftpistole oder einen erwärmten iOpener, um die obere Vorderseite des Displays etwa eine Minute lang zu erwärmen, damit der Kleber, mit dem die Sensoren befestigt sind, weich wird.
Review steps 24-29 prior to doing this. Step 27 shows removing ambient sensor. It is attached….barely…to the rest of this assembly. I thought I was being overly cautions, and it still broke. Don’t be afraid to use heat. Do not force. Any resistance, do not force it.. Heat it up and then try. Other than that, sound and camera works fine, and it appears that FaceID works. Not my phone, so I can’t test that part without unlocking customer’s phone. No error messages appeared, so Im assuming all is good. With the touch home button on older models, if touch wouldn’t work, you’d receive a message as soon as you booted the phone up. OK.. That’s enough. Just be careful over the next 5 steps..
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Schiebe vorsichtig das flache Ende eines Spudgers unter das Flachbandkabel unterhalb des Mikrofons.
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Drehe ihn leicht, um das Mikrofon abzulösen, achte dabei aber darauf, das Flachbandkabel nicht zu spannen oder zu beschädigen.
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Benutze falls nötig die Spudgerspitze, um das Mikrofon ganz aus seiner Vertiefung im Frontpanel herauszulösen. Falls sich das Mikrofon nur schwer entfernen lässt, erwärme die Klebeverbindung erneut.
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Schiebe ein Plektrum unter das Flachbandkabel und unter das Modul mit dem Näherungssensor und dem Flood-Illuminator, arbeite dich dabei von links nach rechts vor.
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Wackle vorsichtig mit dem Plektrum und hebe es an, um das Modul aus seiner Vertiefung im Front Panel herauszulösen.
what happens if the metal plate from the sensor separates from the flood illuminator module?
At this point I thought looking at the image that I was lifting the speaker away and tore off the thin cable completely unaware. Please read and view the next two instruction stages before doing this one and then come back and ensure you keep the speaker very close to the screen as you do it.
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Schiebe die kleine Halteklammer mit einer Pinzette gerade nach oben und vom Umgebungslichtsensor weg.
I tore the ribbon cable that connects to the light sensor, what do I do? will the phone work even if the sensor doesn’t?
I gave up trying to get the clip back on. Appears to function properly without it.
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Hebe den Umgebungslichtsensor mit einer Pinzette aus seiner Vertiefung im Display.
On picture two, the thin transparent thread between the sensor and the display is not the “very thin flex cable” they are talking about but just some glue remains. In my case this thread of glue was sticking onto the sensor in the exact same way which made me suspicious at first.
The top part of the ambient light sensor easily breaks off from the bottom part. In that case do not despair. Pry the stuck part from the old display and transfer it to the new display. Put the assembly back together without glue. It should hold together just fine. Usually the auto brightness feature will still work.
I broke the flex cable from the light sensor that connects to the rest. Anything I can do?
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Wenn du erfolgreich den gesamten Umgebungslichtsensor entfernen konntest, so wie auf dem ersten Foto zu sehen ist, dann mache mit dem nächsten Schritt weiter.
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Falls der weiße Verteilerstreifen abgelöst und im Display verblieben ist, wie auf dem zweiten Foto zu sehen, musst du ihn vorsichtig entlang der Oberkante mit einer dünne Klinge oder einem Hebelwerkzeug herausholen. Unter Umständen ist es hilfreich, den Bereich erneut zu erwärmen.
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Entferne die Baugruppe aus Ohrhörer-Lautsprecher und Frontsensor-Einheit.
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Näherungssensor
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Flood-Illuminator
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Dieses Modul muss so ausgerichtet sein, dass diese Komponenten nicht durch irgendwelchen Kleber blockiert werden.
To replace just the earspeaker, you will have to re-use the the flex assembly which is soldered to the earspeaker…….
the 2 solder connection are hidden under a tiny piece of thin black tape, on the underside of the speaker.
Before attaching the sensor module to your replacement screen, ensure there is nothing blocking the earpiece screen on the new screen part. Mine had a mfg defect or something where there was a black foam like film on the outside of the speaker grill that I couldn’t remove with tape or sticky putty. I had to blow through the back of the grill with a computer duster compressed air can. Otherwise the call volume via the earpiece is extremely low, even when turned to max volume.
Hey there, if I have an iPhone bit damage and I remove the top speaker and sensor and put it on my other iPhone XR. Will it work? It is original iPhone XR and please let me know
The Face ID hardware is paired to the logic board and will not work if you transfer the front sensor assembly. Everything else should work.
super gemacht , danke der olli
The iPhone XR Screen Replacement Kit comes with an adhesive replacement on a blue plastic sheet. I didn’t know what this was and thought it was just protection for the screen during shipping.
Don’t throw it out - At this step 29 remove the old adhesive using this guide -> Austausch der iPhone Display Klebestreifen
Don’t be dumb like me.
I would definitely add a step at the end –
30) Replace the adhesive seal -> iPhone Display Adhesive Replacement.You need to use an EEPROM programmer. This will read code from the old screen to the new screen (assuming the replacement screen is of decent quality and supports True Tone programming). Check out YouTube and you will find plenty of information on how to do this. It really should be mentioned in screen replacement guides/videos, that if you just replace the screen without this specialist equipment, the True Tone function is not available. This is the same for all iPhones that have True Tone.
Add a comment: remove blue protective covers from back of screen when installing
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Entferne folgende 1,1 mm Y000 Schrauben, mit denen die LCD Abschirmung befestigt ist:
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Drei Schrauben an der Seite nahe der Displaykabel
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Zwei weitere Schrauben auf der gegenüberliegenden Seite
L’appui sur les vis est réellement important, au risque de foirer celles-ci. N’hésitez donc pas à appuyer, en faisant contre-poids du côté opposé bien évidemment.
This is the bit that was difficult. The tri'point screwdriver y0000 barely fits this tricky size. It could have been the cheap screwdriver that came with the screen replacement kit. Stripped 2 screws, drilled out with an appropriate size drill bit ' frame still intact. I had more success using a size 0.7mm flathead screwdriver.
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Entferne die restlichen 1,1 mm Y000 Schrauben von der Ober- und der Unterkante der LCD Abschirmung:
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Zwei Schrauben nahe an den Ausschnitten für die Kameras
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Zwei Schrauben an den unteren Ecken
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Erwärme die Rückseite des Displays mithilfe eines iOpeners (oder eines Föns/einer Heißluftpistole), um den Kleber aufzuweichen, mit dem die Displaykabel an der LCD Abschirmung befestigt sind.
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Setze ein Plektrum zwischen die Displaykabel und die LCD Abschirmung.
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Schiebe es zur Unterkante des Displays und beginne, die Kabel abzulösen.
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Halte an, sobald du das Ende des ersten Kabels erreicht hast.
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Setze dein Plektrum erneut ein, und zwar dieses Mal zwischen die beiden Kabel.
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Schiebe das Plektrum zur Unterkante des Displays, um die beiden Kabel voneinander zu trennen.
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Löse das gesamte Touchscreen-Kabel von der LCD Abschirmung ab und falte es zur Seite.
IPhone XS copy phone ka folder
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Setze ein Plektrum unter die Oberkante der LCD Abschirmung und verdrehe es, um die Abschirmung vom Display abzulösen.
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Fasse die LCD Abschirmung an der Oberkante und klappe sie leicht hoch.
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Drücke mit deinem Spudger leicht auf den unteren Teil des Displaykabels und schiebe es durch den Ausschnitt in der LCD Abschirmung.
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Hebe die Oberkante der LCD Abschirmung etwas weiter an und führe das restliche Displaykabel durch den Ausschnitt in der Abschirmung.
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Hebe die LCD Abschirmung noch weiter an, bis du das restliche Displaykabel, das auf der Rückseite festgeklebt ist, sehen kannst.
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Schiebe einen Spudger zwischen die LCD Abschirmung und das Displaykabel und löse sie ganz voneinander ab.
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Beim Anheben der LCD Abschirmung sind an der Unterkante Metallstifte zu sehen.
hello whaty if one of the golden contact pins ( i guess it is) to be exact right one has freyed up a bit and looks messy. could it cause harm or it is not very important?
On reassembly leave the adhesive cover on the digitizer cable so that it doesn’t get caught on the LCD shield while working the other cable in place and positioning the shield on the frame. When you are ready to stick the digitizer cable to the shield remove the protective plastic.
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Nur das LCD und der Touchscreen bleiben übrig.
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Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Entsorge deinen Elektromüll sachgerecht.
Hat die Reparatur nicht ganz geklappt? Versuche es mit ein paar grundständigen Lösungen, ansonsten findest du in unserem Forum Hilfe bei der Fehlersuche.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzubauen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Entsorge deinen Elektromüll sachgerecht.
Hat die Reparatur nicht ganz geklappt? Versuche es mit ein paar grundständigen Lösungen, ansonsten findest du in unserem Forum Hilfe bei der Fehlersuche.
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15 Kommentare
So it’s like the X had a baby with an 8
Hello everyone! Hoping I can get some feedbacks on a problem I’m having. I’m doing a screen replacement on an XR but the bottom half of the screen is unresponsive to touch. The replacement screen is from another XR with original Apple screen. When I put the replacement screen back, it works fine so it can’t be anything that’s damaged on the replacement screen. Also this replacement screen does the same thing to any iphone XR I put in so I know it means there’s no problems with the logic board. The replacement screen only works with its original but not on any other XR.
i have same problem. Need Help
RNS -
Did you find a way Around this ??im experiencing the same thing
What if I just needed to replace the front outer glass only, what steps are needed? Do you have to disassemble the phone?
@emika491 Glass-only repairs are possible for pros, but it’s not a DIY. It takes practice to perfect, and the equipment alone costs about as much as a new phone. I’d stick to replacing the whole display. ;)
Hi
The last 2 cables connected to the LCD digitizer is cut and is there a way to remove then?
Hallo, i have same problem, Can you help me, please?
These instructions are amazing! I followed them and they worked to a T. Every detail was good, the pictures were good. My iPhone XR has a new screen, reused the old LCD metal panel, and put in a new waterproof seal. Thank you for posting this.
Hi,
So I did a screen replacement on an xr and I wanted to activate true tone, but the flex cable broke on the original screen. Now I think if I use the cover board number for activation that could work too., but I noticed that the number printed on the back of the old lcd looks very similar to it, now is that the screens serial and could I use that number too?
Finito senza alcun problema. Il display funziona alla perfezione. Grazie.
There are 3 types of LCD screen manufacturers that Apple use for their mobile devices – Sharp, Toshiba and LG. The Sharp and Toshiba LCD screens are cross-compatible and you can use either of these screens on each handset, however, when you have an iPhone with an LG screen then you would only be able to use an LG screen replacement for these LG coded devices. Again, you might be wondering why. Well, if you fit a Toshiba or Sharp LCD to an iPhone that had an LG screen previously then the chances are you will either have no touch function or intermittent touch issues, so you must identify the screen manufacturer of your iPhone before ordering a premium replacement.
See more at: https://www.iparts-4u.co.uk/blog/how-to-...
@jeffsu With all due respect, responding to someone’s post inquiring different options for repairing their iPhone XR screen with rebuttal about how hard it is and not at least pointing them in the direction of resources should they still want to try is unproductive and seemingly maligned with ifixit’s philosophy regarding user’s retaining the right to fix their own devices, unless I’m misunderstanding something here?
Isn’t it possible to advice of the technical difficulty/ potential issues AND celebrate their desire to take on such a project by equipping them with some info and pointing them in the direction of a great tool kit to get them started , whatever they decide?
Wether it should be left to a Pro or not is ultimately the consumer’s decision and border’s the same rhetoric Apple uses to justify all of its proprietary tech guides and components. And before we refute the premise of what I’m saying with the “liability” argument, remember that this is what disclosures are for.
Happy Fixing!
Thanks for your concern. I’m sorry if my comment came across as flippant or dismissive. By way of background: There are a lot of companies deceiving customers by selling “glass-only” screen repair kits for $10-20 that are in reality a waste of money—the repair requires expensive equipment and a fair bit of practice/skill. Most professional repair shops won’t attempt it, and those that do usually destroy quite a few displays getting the hang of it, even after investing in all the equipment. Few can do it consistently and with good results. Meanwhile, we’ve seen plenty of readers fall for the “glass-only” repair kit scam and then complain after being ripped off because we didn’t warn them away strongly enough. Bottom line, it doesn’t make any sense to attempt this unless you’re planning to make a business out of it. Just bite the bullet and replace the whole display. It’s cheaper, faster, and the only approach with a reasonable chance of success for a DIYer.
One of my gaskets was as shown in your second photo, the other had been worked into the threads (as if smeared) probably from the factory and was completely unusable.
In place of replacements (unsure of where to purchase) I just used a clear silicone caulking on both screws upon reassembly to offer at least some water seal. I wish these gaskets were included with the gasket waterproofing sealant kit!
Erica - Antwort
Is there any place to buy these screw gaskets? I haven’t seen it mentioned anywhere but one of mine was pretty much chewed up. Silicone should work but I’d prefer the oem solution.
Chilinh Nguyen - Antwort
I found a place on Amazon that sells them. It's cheapest to get a full set of screws than to get just these. $5-$6 USD.
J Olin -
Can it be dead?
Lulu navarro - Antwort
If I transfer the data from the old to the new battery with an icopy, don't I get an error message?
David Julian Krause - Antwort
how am i supposed to know if the battery is below 25% if the screen won't turn on?
Beth Jackson - Antwort