Einleitung
Um den Akku auszutauschen benötigst du einen Lötkolben mit sehr feiner Spitze.
Was du brauchst
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Benutze iPod Öffnungswerkzeuge und Metallspatel, um die Rückabdeckung vom Shuffle abzuhebeln. Fange an der Naht in der Nähe des ON/OFF-Schalters an.
I managed to open mine using no tools at all so without damage. Maybe the glue also weakened over time so might need to use some heat. I didn’t but then again it’s a second hand, old device in my case.
I used the clip on the back as a leverage to (ever so slightly) bend the back piece in the center. Having that bend is enough for the very small clips on the power switch side to detach. Once that side is removed you can slide the complete back out towards the direction of the power switch. I checked on a flat surface and the piece isn’t damaged, still straight. Just don’t keep it bend too long and don’t over bend it. It really shouldn’t take much since those notches are really small.
To close it again just slide the back side in again and then snap the power switch side back in place by lightly pressing it on top. Since the clips aren’t damaged this way it will close up nicely. If the notches got damaged you’ll have to use glue instead (hot glue will do and is easily removable again).
what do you mean by bend the back piece in the center?! How do you do that exactly? Did you stick something in between the back piece and the clip and press in?
I completely agree with Ha ns' comment. I really cannot understand how the author managed to open this device as described. There must be something like a 0.1mm gap between the housing and the cover, impossible to enter a spudger or pry tool. Use a lever on the hinged side of the clip to lift the cover, insert a 0.2mm plastic film or a thin plectrum or spudger on the bent center of the cover. Avoid to push the spudger down, as there are electronic components underneath, only lift the cover, without overbending. Move over to the side of the on/off switch, and release the 3 clips. On the other end an 8mm long nose will avoid lifting off the cover. You will have to slide it out horizontally. Clearly: you have to be very very careful and gifted...
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Entferne die einzelne 2,1 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, mit der das Logic Board am vorderen Gehäuse befestigt ist.
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Klappe den Sicherungsbügel am ZIF Verbinder der Steuerungstaste mit der Kante eines iPod Öffnungswerkzeugs hoch.
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Ziehe das Flachbandkabel zur Steuerungstaste mit einer Pinzette aus seinem Anschluss heraus.
I could not get the ribbon cable out with a pair of tweezers. Instead I inserted a needle below the cable, and gently pulled it out by pressing with the finger on the cable (and against the needle). Very difficult!
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Heble behutsam den Akku mit einem iPod Öffnungswerkzeug aus der Klebeverbindung zum vorderen Gehäuse heraus.
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Hebe den Akku aus dem vorderen Gehäuse, achte dabei daruf, dass du seine empfindlichen Leitungen nicht zu stark belastest.
Why not simplifying this delicate step by just cutting the wires and soldering the (also cutted) new battery’s wires onto them (without creating a short circuit of course!)
I was going to refer to my comment on step 10, where I am essentially saying this same thing and how to do it.
If you don’t like the prospect of soldering to the logic board if you are new to it this is an easier way to get this job done without the risk of bricking the logic board, and you also wont have to disassemble the iPod any more than the guide has shown up to this point.
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Setze die Spitze einer Metallsonde in die Öffnung, die im Halter des Logic Boards nahe am Logic Board eingeformt ist.
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Heble den Halter zuerst von der Vorderseite des vorderen Gehäuses, dann von der Seite des vorderen Gehäuses weg.
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Entferne den Halter des Logic Boards vom Shuffle.
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Drücke die Kopfhörerbuchse mit der Kante eines iPod Öffnungswerkzeugs nach unten zur Mitte des Shuffles hin.
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Drücke das Logic Board weiter nach unten von der Oberkante des Shuffles weg.
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Ziehe das Logic Board an der Seite nahe der ON/OFF-Taste aus dem vorderen Gehäuse und hole die Kopfhörerbuchse vorsichtig aus ihrer Vertiefung im vorderen Gehäuse heraus.
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Entferne die Logic Board Einheit vom Shuffle.
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Schabe mit der scharfen Spitze einer Metallsonde den Kleber nahe an den ZIF-Anschlüssen der Steuertasten von den Akkuanschlüssen.
If you cut the wires before desoldering you won't risk shorting the (non connected) battery. Just remember to cut them one at a time.
Also, if you are going to have to solder, why bother disassembling it fully? Might as well - instead of taking the logic board out - just cut the cable and solder the new battery directly to the old cable and tape the joint. It’s a bit janky but easier than soldering to the small logic board with the risk of bricking it for someone inexperienced with board repair.
It might be more cosmetically appealing and ‘theoretically’ more stable to solder to the board.
But to me it seems like it would be easier, faster and less risk to just cut the battery wire as soon as you get into the iPod, cut the new batteries wires to an appropriate length so that it will all fit and solder the new battery wires to the old wires still attached to the board.
And - super tiny shrink tubing if you have, electrical tape, hot glue… Something non conductive to cover the joints on the cable so they wont short of course.
I don’t even have an iPod I just googled this repair to see if it was possible because I saw an iPod on TV. Why am I here?
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Erhitze nacheinander die rot markierten Akkuanschlüsse mit einer feinen Lötspitze, während du gleichzeitig das zugehörige Kabel auf der anderen Seite des Logic Boards wegziehst.
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Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.
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19 Kommentare
I have a question. Why can't the leads to the old battery be cut without pulling the board, then just solder new battery leads to the old. Seems it might even be possible to add snap in connectors at this point to facilitate future changes.
i have the same q.
imhockey -
Sure that’s a good plan also. Just make sure not to short the wires in any way and detach the negative wire first on disconnect & negative last on connecting again.
For a connector you’ll really need a very small connection then cause the space is very limited inside.
Ha ns -
I'm gonna try to remove the back cover with minimal prying to reduce cosmetic defects. The plan is to somehow remove the spring loaded clip by pushing out the lever pin, then drilling holes along the edge of the over wherre the 3 little hooks are (In this image, where the right thumb is touching. https://d3nevzfk7ii3be.cloudfront.net/ig...).
It would be great if someone could provide a closer look at where exactly the hooks are so I can position my 1.5mm drill bit better. Also, if you can to figure out how to remove the spring loaded clip mechanism without going through the 4 screws, that'd be awesome! I suspect the pin is held in place by just adhesive, but don't want to risk pushing too hard and causing defects. :(
Check my comment in the article on that specific step. You don’t have to drill out anything. You can use the clip on the shuffle itself to slightly force the back plate to bend giving enough room for the clips to snap off.
Ha ns -
I can't seem to find a replacement battery to purchase. Do they still sell them and can you provide a link? Thanks!
Me too! Where do we get the batteries?
you can use any same style/type 3.7v li-ion battery, but main thing is the battery must fit in without any injury :)
martin -
@martin Are you sure about this? I was thinking of doing that and again thought if there's any difference battery protection circuitries and cause issues.
I have the same issue sourcing batteries. You can find some on eBay but so pricey you can often get another used shuffle. And other sources for lipo batteries are often offering 150 mAh as the smallest capacity which is still way too big (original is 50 mAh).
Also I noticed the original has a protective circuitry built in. So just any lipo won’t do unless you transplant that very small board. Normally lipo’s rely on their chargers to be balanced and protected, hence having balancing leads (for multi cell configurations).
I though I had a good idea to buy this very cheap mp3 player (for < 3 EUR) and extract the battery from it but even that battery is way too big. I’ll keep looking in that direction though. Other electronics with very small batteries. https://www.benl.ebay.be/itm/Mp3-Player-...
https://i.ibb.co/BTQZFGK/mp3-player-lipo...
Ha ns -
where can you buy the battery, can not find anywhere ?
Friend i am looking for in ali ecpress or inside bluetooth fones...
I found inside bluetooth fones have battery in dimension is next 11mm x22 mm 3 mm
Is hard to find or in ebay site you can find too
In ali express ebay site ..
Or inside bluetooth phone ..
Ear bluetooth i found
Next 11mmx 22mm 'x 3mm
The dimensions..
3.7 voltas.. can use the board in battery only changing the cell polimer..
And test if is good about space inside
what glue to use to fix it?
This was a huge pain. I successfully got the battery replaced and it works again, but the back will never be the same. I’m going to try super glue and clamping force to see if I can get it to close all the way. I will probably not do this again in the future, maybe a custom enclosure for the parts?
I’m still looking for reasonably priced batteries for these too. A trick I’ve used to open the backs of these is to slide a nickel or other coin that almost fills the space between the body and the clip on the short side of the hinge (the side of the apple with the bite). When the hinge is pretty much locked in a closed position you can use the leverage of the clip to gently rock and pry the back open. The damage done this way will be pretty minimal and should be an easy fix if it even needs it.
Australia - Tried mine today in 2022 and it worked without damage to the internals. The back cover though is bent even after heating up the device, using the steam from a cup of boiling water to soften the adhesive. There are some clips on the inside which appear to bend slightly when you pry the back open. In the reassemble, the back won’t fit perfectly due to in a slightly warped backside, unless you’re able to flatten it out with force before putting it back in(which should be possible). I’m stoked coz the device is alive again. Now just to assess whether this eBay battery(which cost will crank out the 15 hour capacity it advertise (probably closer to 5-10, which would still be better than the old battery which could only hold a 15minute charge nowadays).
