Hier wird der Austausch des Akkus gezeigt. Achtung: Du musst bei dieser Anleitung löten können.

  1. Die Frontscheibe des iPod 4.Generation ist am Rückgehäuse festgeklebt. Es empfiehlt sich sehr, den Klebstoff mit einem Heißluftgebläse aufzuweichen.
    • Die Frontscheibe des iPod 4.Generation ist am Rückgehäuse festgeklebt. Es empfiehlt sich sehr, den Klebstoff mit einem Heißluftgebläse aufzuweichen.

    • Stelle das Heißluftgebläse auf niedrigste Stufe ein und beginne den unteren Bereich des iPod in der Nähe des Home Buttons zu erwärmen.

    • Es ist empfehlenswert, den gewünschten Bereich in kreisförmigen Bewegungen gleichmäßig zu erwärmen.

    do I have to use a heat gun

    Fabiola Winfield - Antwort

    yes it is crucial

    ben folks -

    but u can use a hair dryer on warm

    ben folks -

    I didn't use a heat gun but this was due to the glass being rather shattered and not just cracked in the corner. The rule of thumb might be to not use excessive force, if you see that you need to use the heat gun or a blow dryer as someone suggested. I also wanted to point out the the adhesive strip just around the edges was exposed and it is rather strong so I was able to pull it around part of the edge which actually helped the glass disengage.

    nirv -

    Hi, thanks to this tutorial achieves replace my iPod battery to 100%, it was difficult, so thanks iFixit!

    The only problem I had was with the iFixit screwdriver disappointed me greatly, as it can not remove the screws with the screwdriver.

    A tip for those who first make repairs before starting the disarmament carefully read through the tutorial to not make a mistake that could damage your iPod and do not forget to place pieces in a safe place so they are not lost.

    Greetings from Guatemala


    Alfonso Espinoza - Antwort

    well then u suck

    ben folks -

    Be careful with the heat gun!! Don`t use it too much. You can melt something inside, specially when you`re closing the iPod.

    Luiz R - Antwort

    No man you can use a blow dryer!

    Colton B - Antwort

    Would a heat bead bag be safer option to weaken the adhesive?

    Angus McLauchlan - Antwort

    I had success with as low as 80°C using a hair dryer to melt the adhesive, I kept track of it with a meat thermometer. The battery says it's rated only up to 60°C...

    micahvanderhill - Antwort

    I got through all the parts to take the wifi antenna out!! But, I'm having a hard time putting the stuff back!!

    ~Palm head~ But thank you ifixit for the great and awesome directions, I understand clearly!! Thank you very much

    Kaiden - Antwort

  2. Pass auf, der iPod wird sehr heiß. Es erleichtert die Arbeit, wenn du ihn mit einem Tuch anfasst.
    • Pass auf, der iPod wird sehr heiß. Es erleichtert die Arbeit, wenn du ihn mit einem Tuch anfasst.

    • Setze die Kante eines Plastiköffnungswerkzeugs zwischen Frontscheibe und Plastikrahmen in der Nähe des Home Buttons ein.

    • Versuche nicht zwischen Plastikrahmen und dem Rückgehäuse aus Stahl zu hebeln.

    • Hebele die Unterkante der Frontscheibe nach oben. Sei dabei vorsichtig und biege das Glas nicht zu stark.

    • Wenn es zu schwer geht, musst du die Scheibe erneut erwärmen und es wieder probieren.

    There should be (in general) better notes about the reassembly process. Getting the thing glued back in is WAY harder than just "reverse this step." Getting it to sit flush with any kind of adhesion is pretty difficult. No real advice other than make sure the edges of the metal thing at the top of the back of the digitizer are in the right slots and use judiciously placed pieces of 3M 300LSE adhesive.

    jonathan - Antwort

    I actually just figured it out. I had the ribbon cable for the digitizer running under the LCD and that wasn't allowing the LCD to sit down far enough. By re-folding the digitizer cable so it was triple-folded (when you do it you'll see what I mean) and only under the glass where there is no LCD, you'll get the glass to sit right.

    jonathan - Antwort

    I'm havin' problems with mine... hum, the front panel broke and i don't know where can i buy a new one. Can you help me?! Detail, the Touch screen still working... the external screen is broken, but the internal is ok...

    Nathan Bergmann - Antwort

    EBay mate sells plenty

    Greg W -

    Glue is under the black part of the glass, not under the clear part of the glass.

    The Glue is mostly around the top and bottom about 1/2 inch in or so, around both left and right edges the strip of glue is very thin about 1/8 inch or so.

    I had success with heat and sliding the tool or pick up and down the side where there is less glue until it started separating being careful that I was between front glass panel and the black plastic bezel.

    Evon Waters - Antwort

    Take a look at the post What parts to move from the broken screen?

    That will give you some advice as to what to move over from the broken screen, metal bracket, home button and small sponge spacer on the tip of the digitizer connector. Also how important it is to use new adhesive. If after assembling the screen bulges on one side (top or bottom) take the time to dissasemble and check that everything is in place (flat) and like jonathan writes, the digitizer cable is folded.

    asle - Antwort

    • Wenn genug Platz ist, dass du die Unterkante der Frontscheibe anfassen kannst, dann hebe sie weg vom Gehäuse des iPod und löse so die Klebeverbindung an den Seitenkanten.

    • Wenn sich der Kleber nicht leicht lösen lässt, musst du erneut das Heißluftgebläse anwenden und den Klebstoff aufweichen.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Der iPod 4. Generation ist so konstruiert, dass sich das Kabel zum Digitizer nicht lösen lässt, bevor das Logic Board ausgebaut ist. Sei deswegen sehr vorsichtig beim Hantieren der Fronteinheit, da sie immer noch mit dem Rest des iPod über das sehr empfindliche Touchscreen Kabel angeschlossen ist.

    • Dieses Kabel ist auch sehr kurz und ist am Logic Board oben an der Fronteinheit angeschlossen. Wenn es sich nicht löst, während du die Oberkante der Fronteinheit löst, dann musst du es mit einem iPod-Öffnungswerkzeug auslösen, bevor du die Fronteinheit vom iPod herausdrehen kannst.

    • Ziehe vorsichtig die Fronteinheit oben weg von der Klebeverbindung, die es am iPod befestigt. Denke dabei an das kurze Touchscreen Kabel, welches die beiden Bauteile verbindet.

    The LCD cable which attaches to the logic board, is, indeed, very short. When reassembling the iPod, you may only be able to leave a small crack between the glass and the body to allow for enough space to reattach this cable. A plastic opening tool works well, but be warned: it takes quite a bit of patience.

    reidbauer - Antwort

    Indeed the LCD cable which attaches to the logic board is short and I spent a good 30 minutes trying to get it to seat. When I finally did I realized I broke the right side and that is why my display is not working now. When they say difficult, they mean difficult - I have experience with electronics and I recommend you first practice on an older unit if you can.

    kitlammers - Antwort

    Most guides recommend simply cutting the digitizer cable once you have disconnected the data cable. This makes things much simpler for subsequent steps rather than having the front panel dangling there.

    bowlingb - Antwort

    Before i do this repair, does my screen have to be all together. Because my iPod got cracked a while ago, so do i have to buy a new screen so i can put the jack in? Also what goes first in the process when doing both of those things ?

    Diondre Jordan - Antwort

    Reconnecting the data cable is actually pretty easy. Just hold your screen at a 90 degree angle and put it on your underlying surface (and not on the back part of your ipod). Then just use the opening tool to reconnect the cable. The cable is long enough. If you connected it properly try pushing the home button on the back part (not the actual button). If done properly, your screen should light up. (if not try again to connect the cable) Then just fold the screen onto the back part without lifting it. The cable disconnects very easily.

    12cw47 - Antwort

    Maybe if you could show an image pointing out the the digitizer and display cable. I missed the part that the display cable pops off, and didn't get to it until almost the end.

    jimjty - Antwort

    • Entferne folgende acht Kreuzschlitzschrauben #00:

      • Eine 3,5 mm Schraube

      • Zwei 3,0 mm Schrauben

      • Eine 2,3 mm Schraube

      • Eine 2,4 mm Schraube

      • Drei 2,0 mm Schrauben

    The antenna cable will almost always stick to the digitzer and often the glass is broken there. You can use a knife to pick out broken glass around the edges elsewhere but use ONLY PLASTIC tool to separate the antenna cable from the old digitzer. This cable is very thin and a metal tool can easily cut the cable which you cannot then repair but must buy a replacement.

    asle - Antwort

    If you are removing broken glass be sure to recover the steel plate glued to the top of glass as well as the home button at the bottom of the assembly.

    Mark - Antwort

    This steel plate or bracket has been discussed many times here. My best experience is to NOT move it to a new screen. Without the bracket and using enough adhesive in fact brings the new screen closer to the chassis and a snugger fit. Read more here: What parts to move from the broken screen?

    asle -

    Notice, in the image the switch for the home button has a tiny sub-1mm dot in the center of it. When I reassembled the home button did not work. That tiny cylinder of material had been knocked off the switch. A rounded probe could still activate the switch, but the flat metal plate on the home button could not. Fortunately, I was working on a white cloth, and a careful search turned up the tiny cylinder. I was able to reattach it and repair the home button.

    ciradrak - Antwort

    I would like to add that the tiny cylinder is 0.65mm in diameter and 0.20mm high. I was able to successfully reattach it using a thick cyanoacrylate. You must be careful not to foul the switch's membrane with too much glue. I would suggest using fine point tweezers and a metal probe to apply the tiny dot of glue. You need a steady hand for this.

    ciradrak -

    • Hebele mit einem iPod Öffnungswerkzeug die dünne Stahlabdeckung von der Rückkamera hoch.

    • Achte auf die kleine Feder in der Blende in der Nähe der Kamera. (gelb markiert)

    • Entferne die Stahlabdeckung vom iPod.

    Be sure to get the tool down deep when removing the rear camera. If not, you can accidentally snag the mid-section of the camera and it will come apart -- and you'll end up buying a replacement.

    Country Computer Service - Antwort

    I have snagged that part of the camera several times. Easy to fix with super-glue along the edges of the cover. Works great. Sometimes no matter how carefully you pry up it falls apart.

    asle -

    This metal plate fits under plastic near RHS edge, and other side drops between the camera and a circuit board - to refit, you may need to loosen a nearby screw to allow you to move the circuit board a little to let this metal plate clip onto the side of the camera.

    I had to press down hard with a plastic tool to get this metal plate to clip on.

    Don't forget to re-tighten it later (I forgot).

    phil colbourn - Antwort

    A strip metallic cover, glued to display isn't mentioned in this guide.

    Note that most new front panels are going without this part and you would need to remount it.

    Daniel Filatov - Antwort

    what exactly is the copper tape for that sits over the backplate that covers the rear camera? it gives me trouble every time.

    yhwhelrey0 - Antwort

    The copper is important for heat dispensing. It has nothing to do with grounding or signal. In worst case if it is torn the Touch could get hotter but should work. If it is torn I usually just lift up one part and move it so it is in contact with the other copper part.

    asle -

    I just replaced the screen and rear cam on my 4th gen. The camera does not work??? Any ideas????????

    mark - Antwort

    Maybe the rear camera connection got loose when you lifted up the logic board in top to replace the digitizer. I would open it again and check the connection to the rear camera. Hope you fix it!

    asle -

    • Setze die Kante eines iPod-Öffnungswerkzeugs unter die Zwischenplatte aus Stahl in der Nähe der unteren linken Ecke des iPod.

    • Heble nach oben, um die Platte aus der Klebeverbindung, welche sie am inneren Kunststoffgehäuse befestigt, zu befreien.

    • Wenn die Platte trotzdem noch am Logic Board festhängt, dann erwärme den Bereich erneut, um den Klebstoff aufzuweichen, löse dann die Platte mit dem Öffnungswerkzeug ab.

    • Sei dabei sehr vorsichtig. Unter dem im Foto gezeigten Bereich befindet sich der Lautsprecher. Dieser ist mit kurzen und sehr dünnen Kabeln angeschlossen.

    • Hier ist ein sehr dünnes Flachbandkabel, welches die Lautstärkeregler und die Einschalttaste mit dem Logic Board verbindet. Arbeite um diesen Bereich herum und beschädige nicht das Kabel. Achte darauf, das Kabel nach unten zu drücken, wenn du die Platte hochhebst. Das sehr empfindliche Kabel kann auch noch an der Platte mit Klebereste festhängen.

      • Dieses Kabel zerreißt leicht, wenn du nicht aufpasst.

      • Unter dem rot markierten Bereich ist Klebstoff.

    I couldn't get a spudger in-between this space, so I went to the side where the three screws were on the left hand side and worked my way towards the bottom to separate the glue...

    Kevin Hulett - Antwort

    The power and volume wire on the logic board were covered with adhesive. Be careful! While trying to remove the steel mid plane I found that the adhesive will rip the ribbon!

    Chris Boenitz - Antwort

    Here is where you take it easy. Two things can be broken here.

    -Use time to carefully separate the bottom left part of the midplane. It sticks to the speaker which you tear the speaker leads if you are to hasty to lift it up. And remember the mid plane must not be bended up here since it needs to be 100% aligned so the new digitizer does not bulge here when in place.

    - The second picture. The black visible adhesive sticks to the volume cable. Use time to carefully separate the mid plane here so the cable is not ripped when you lift up the midplane. Pry a plastic tool like the picture or/and a spudger slowly in until you see/feel the midplane loosening. A broken volume cable is no fun.

    asle - Antwort

    as stated before, be very careful with the part at the speaker.

    the speaker actually sticks to the mid plane and i accidentally lifted it with the plane and separated one cable from the board!

    stan - Antwort

    That small ribbon cable ripped, be sure to really watch this - look at the second picture in this step and try to make sure you understand where it is on the board under it.

    kitlammers - Antwort

    This was difficult during both disassembly and reassembly. I used a thin guitar pick to separate the ribbon cable by the volume buttons from the steel midplane. Reassembly was tough because I didn't have the ipod dock connector seated correctly, AND more importantly, the speaker has a part that needs to be inserted into a black part on TOP of the dock connector-- it looks almost like a tiny air duct that has a foam gasket around it.

    Nik - Antwort

    I was able to replace the home button ribbon cable without having to fully remove the steel mid plane. It lifted up enough from the iPod's body that I was able to slip the ribbon in around the support it sticks to and hold it in place until the adhesive set.

    Much simpler, and didn't cause any problems -- the mid plane didn't deform, and snapped right back into place.

    Thanks for the guide.

    jon - Antwort

    • Kippe die Zwischenplatte aus Stahl leicht, um sie vom Rückgehäuse zu lösen.

    • Sei vorsichtig und zerreiße nicht das Stückchen Kupferband, welches die Rückkamera mit der Zwischenplatte aus Stahl verbindet.

    • Hebe die Zwischenplatte aus Stahl aus dem Rückgehäuse hoch. Löse das Stück Kupferband ab, welches an der Rückkamera festklebt.

    I was able to stop at step 8 for the battery replacement.

    Once you remove the metal shield, desolder the 3 leads. Then use your heat gun to warm the battery. Use plastic pry tool between copper backing and battery and separate them (two adhesive strips on the sides of the battery). Once done with this, you can snake the battery ribbon cable from between the logic board and aluminum casing. Not as easily, but still very doable, snake the new battery ribbon back through the same slot; solder 3 points and reassemble. Much easier than removing the entire board. Good luck!

    Oh also, not mentioned in this guide - there is a plastic/silicon substance covering the 3 leads. Prior to desoldering remove this as much as possible with metal or plastic spudger (if metal, be sure not to bridge the connections).

    Syl2us - Antwort

    I stopped dismantling here as well and was able to replace the battery and everything works on the ipod. tricky parts for me were the copper adhesive on the rear camera and getting the data display cable reconnected

    I used plenty of heat first heating the ipod in an industrial oven to about 150 F and then as needed heating a heat gun.

    dhawke -

    what do you do if you break the copper connector to the camera?

    justinallison1 - Antwort

    The copper tape is mainly for heat dispersion. Without the copper tape it should work anyway but I would just lift up and move one part of the tape so that it is in contact with the other part when you put it together.

    asle -

    justinallison1, From what I understand, it is ok if that copper tape rips. In fact, I have seen people remove it completely. If it rips, just try and have the 2 pieces touching. (This is what I have researched and done myself with no negative results.

    Katie Kousoulos - Antwort

    after removed the steel mid plate, does anybody measure the battery voltage? I measured the battery voltage is only 0.3V. is it normal? I de-soldered the battery three points and measured the battery voltage 3.8V. So It looks like battery is OK. The logic board has problem. So I connected external power source 3.7V and maximum current 50mA to the battery B+ and B-. I found the power source dropped to only 1.65V and 50mA. Could I say logic board has problem?

    William - Antwort

    • Heble den Stecker zur Kopfhörerbuchse mit einem iPod-Öffnungswerkzeug hoch und aus seinem Sockel auf dem Logic Board.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Entferne die einzelne 2,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, welche di Kopfhörerbuchseneinheit am Rückgehäuse befestigt.

    • Die Schraube steht in einem Winkel von 90°. Entferne sie auch unter diesem Winkel.

    Be sure to note the way the ribbon cable bends between the connector and the rest of the jack assembly. Bending your new one in the same manner while hooking up the connector should make it a lot easier make the connection.

    matthew r - Antwort

    That "90 degrees screw" doesn't come out! What I have to do? Die Kacke ist am dampfen!

    0815Hater - Antwort

    It came out! Thank you for nothing! Die Kacke ehat aufgehört zu dampfen! Sorry for my english!

    0815Hater - Antwort

  3. Frohes Fest, frohes Tüfteln
    Pack's ein, pack's aus, pack's an: Erhalte 12 € Rabatt auf deinen Einkauf ab 50 € mit dem Code FIXMAS12
    Frohes Fest, frohes Tüfteln
    Pack's ein, pack's aus, pack's an: Erhalte 12 € Rabatt auf deinen Einkauf ab 50 € mit dem Code FIXMAS12
    • Hebe vorsichtig mit einem iPod-Öffnungswerkzeug die Kante der Kopfhörerbuchse, die dem Akku am nächsten ist, aus ihrer Vertiefung.

    • Entferne die Kopfhörerbuchse aus ihrer Fassung im Rückgehäuse.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Entferne die folgenden drei Kreuzschlitzschrauben nahe der Oberkante des Logic Boards:

      • Eine 2,0 mm Schraube

      • Zwei 2,3 mm Schrauben

    Can you use the same colour coding as with The above sizes? [HvL]

    Hugo van Leeuwen - Antwort

    These colors are too close together.. One red, two yellow.. Please.

    playpets106 - Antwort

    Thanks for the comment! I adjusted that step, should be much easier to see now.

    If you're ever having trouble seeing screw markers or other small details on a step, you can always view a larger version of the image with the "View Huge" link on the top left corner of the image.

    Andrew Optimus Goldberg -

    Can someone explain what the copper/ribbon is that the lower yellow marked screw goes through is for? Perhaps only heat dissipation? The ipod I have was given to me with much of the glass smashed and picked out, so some of this is just missing. Obviously I can't put it back...

    hutchwilco - Antwort

    • Hebele die Rückkamera mit der Kante eines iPod-Öffnungswerkzeugs weg vom Rückgehäuse, entferne sie aber nicht.

    • Versuche noch nicht die Rückkamera zu entfernen.

    When you insert your tool to remove the rear camera make sure you have the tip all the way in. You can accidentally grab the middle of the camera assembly and it will come apart - and you'll have to replace the entire camera.

    Country Computer Service - Antwort

    hi! i accidentally cut the copper adhesive on rear camera, and now it doesn't work: i start the app "camera" and it opens but still close the lens... can i fix it ? if yes, how? thanks

    simone usala - Antwort

    • Hebe die Kante des Logic Boards nahe am Akku mit einem iPod-Öffnungswerkzeug etwas an, so dasss du sie mit der Hand fassen kannst.

    • Biege dabei das Logic Board nicht zu stark, es ist sehr dünn und zerbrechlich.

    • Sei sehr vorsichtig und hebe nicht zu stark an. Das Flachbandkabel zu den Lautstärkereglern ist noch angeschlossen und zerreißt sehr leicht.

    • Hebe das Logic Board weiterhin mit einer Hand hoch und benutze ein iPod-Öffnungswerkzeug, um das Logic Board in der Nähe des Kupferbands an der Oberkante des Logic Boards anzuheben.

    • Das Logic Board lässt sich gleichmäßig hochheben, wenn der letzte Stecker der Displayeinheit von der Oberkante des Rückgehäuses freigekommen ist.

    Use extreme caution when lifting the board. There are 2 ribbon cables that are extremely fragile, 1 connecting the rear facing camera and another connects the volume controller flex on the logic board.

    Evon Waters - Antwort

    Adding to Evon's comment:


    Use your plastic pry tool and make sure the flex cable, between the board and power button is not on top of the board. Take your time because even the slightest snag can tear that flex cable which leads to de-soldering/soldering the battery & flex cable.

    Once the board is lifted the first time I usually put a piece of Kapton tape over that area of the cable in case it has to be pulled up again.

    Country Computer Service - Antwort

    Can you explain this in a little more detail?

    I have done a dozen or more iPod screens without any issue. I have one here now that does nothing. Just a black screen. It won't even take a charge.

    Should I simply desolder those pads and then resolder? Sort of like unplugging and replugging to reset something?



    Rene Jeddore -

    Ciao dopo aver seguito il tuo aiuto per come cambiare la batteria io ho rimontato tutto ma la barra di sblocco non scorre più o i comandi in quella altezza del touch , tutto il resto funziona perfettamente.Dove potrei aver sbagliato?

    Potete aiutarmi grazie

    salvatore sagone - Antwort

    I placed a penny between the battery and board and it held it in place at just the right height.

    gcroley - Antwort

    I was so so so so careful when lifting the logic board past the flex cable on the power button. Before final assembly, plugged it all in to test and it booted OK. LCD and Digitizer worked. Went to power it off and found the power button wouldn't work. Sure enough, the tiny (<0.5mm) strip of copper in that power flex cable had torn right through. About to pitch this rotten, stinking thing across the back yard into the trees. I've spent 5 hours of my life fixing this today! Aaargh!!!!!

    Squonky - Antwort

    • Hebele den Lautsprecher des iPods vorsichtig mit einem Plastiköffnungswerkzeug aus seiner Vertiefung im äußeren Gehäuse.

    • Versuche nicht den Lautsprecher ganz zu entfernen. Er ist noch mit der Unterseite des Logic Boards verlötet.

    • Lasse den Lautsprecher über dem Akku stehen, so dass du mit dem Einbau des Akkus weitermachen kannst.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • In den nächsten Schritten wirst du den Kleber unter dem Akku, dem Logic Board und dem Rahmen unter dem Akku lösen. Arbeite langsam, sorgfältig und gleichmäßig. Achte darauf, dass du weder den Akku beschädigst noch das Logic Board verbiegst.

    • Heble den Kleber an den drei offen liegenden Kanten des Akkus mit einem Plastiköffnungswerkzeug hoch.

    • Hebe den Akku noch nicht heraus, fange nur damit an, den Kleber zu lösen.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Wenn die Kanten des Akkus gelöst sind, kannst du anfangen, die Kante des Logic Boards hochhebeln. Beginne oben und arbeite dich an der Seite des Boards nach unten.

    • Damit das Logic Board sich nicht verbiegt oder bricht, darfst du es jetzt noch nicht entfernen. Der Dockanschluss ist immer noch im Rahmen eingebettet. Auch jetzt sollst du nur noch mehr Kleber lösen.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Drücke vorsichtig mit einem Plastiköffnungswerkzeug den Dockanschluss aus seiner Vertiefung im äußeren Gehäuses. Drücke gleichmäßig jede Ecke heraus, bis der Anschluss frei wird.

    • Der Dockanschluss ist am Logic Board angebracht, deswegen kann sich das Logic Board beim Ausdrücken des Anschlusses aus dem Gehäuse verbiegen. Sei sehr vorsichtig, dass sich das Board nicht dauerhaft verzieht.

    This was the hardest step for me. I ended up snapping the mother board at the corner because the adhesive just suddenly released. I wish there were a few more pictures and pointers on how to remove the charging port. Does anyone know a good place to get a cheap 32 GB mother board??

    Damon - Antwort

    Existe cola embaixo do conector, por isso, a dificuldade em retirá-lo. Eu aconselho, um pequeno aquecimento com a pistola de calor, na parte traseira da carcaça, antes de tentar a remoção do conector.

    mpcellmendes - Antwort

    For Step 17, just slip a length of waxed dental floss under the top left and right corners of the battery, slowly slide down the back of the battery with a sawing motion. All the adhesive will be seperated w/out any risk of bending the board or puncturing the battery. Charging port will now be easily removed.

    carol - Antwort

    Well Done! Nice to see extra ideas for Steps as it can make the process much better. Thank u!

    Vicki - Antwort

    • Wenn der ganze Kleber unter der Einheit aus Logic Board/Akku gelöst ist, dann kannst du die Einheit an der Seite hochheben und sorgfältig herumdrehen, um Zugang zur Unterseite des Akkus zu erhalten.

    • Das Logic Board ist immer noch am Rückgehäuse befestigt. Versuche nicht, die Einheit ganz zu entfernen, sonst wirst du dieses Flachbandkabel zerreißen.

    At this step there should be indicated much clearer in BOLD YELLOW RED what ever to turn the logic board instead of removing, since it VERY easily will break the ribbon.

    Fboecom - Antwort

    • Fasse die Kupferabschirmung auf der Unterseite des Akkus mit einer Hand an und halte den Akku gut mit der anderen Hand fest.

    • Ziehe die Kupferabschirmung vom Akku ab.

    • Ziehe die Abschirmung nicht schnell ab. Das könnte den Akku dauerhaft beschädigen.

    • Beim Einbau eines neuen Akkus muss die Kupferabschirmung so flach wie möglich sein. Ein verknittertes Blech erhöht sonst die Dicke von Akku und LCD zu stark.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Löse, falls nötig, das Stück gelben Kaptonbands unten am Akku mit dem Plastiköffnungswerkzeug ab.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Jetzt sollte der Akku nur noch durch ein einziges Kabel mit dem Logic Board verbunden sein.

    • Drehe den Akku nach oben und weg vom Logic Board.

    • Drehe die Einheit um , so dass die Lötstellen am Akku sichtbar werden.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • In den nächsten Schritten wirst du die drei Akku Lötstellen auf dem Logic Board entlöten.

    • Möglicherweise bedeckt etwas Silikon oder Kleber die drei Lötstellen. Bevor du lötest, musst du erst soviel wie möglich davon entfernen, bevor du mit der Lötspitze daran arbeiten kannst. Benutze dazu einen Kunststoff- oder Metallspatel. ( Wenn du Metall verwendest, musst du sehr aufpassen, dass du an den Kontakten keinen Kurzschluss herstellst).

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Der Akku am iPod Touch der 4. Generation ist mit Lötpunkten mit kleinen Löchern angeschlossen. Diese gehen durch das Flachbandkabel des Akkus durch und finden Kontakt an flachen Lötstellen an der Oberfläche des Logic Boards. Bei diesem Schritt wirst du jede einzelne Lötstelle erwärmen und sie gleichzeitig mit einem Metallspatel hochheben.

    • Überbrücke dabei nicht den Kontakt zwischen den Lötstellen sowohl auf dem Board als auch am Flachbandkabel mit dem Metallspatel. Kurzschlüsse können das Logic Board zerstören.

    • Überhitze nicht das Kabel und das Board. Halte die Spitze des Lötkolbens nur so lange auf die Lötstellen, bis das Lötzinn schmilzt. Zuviel Hitze kann das Logic Board zerstören oder das Flachbandkabel schmelzen lassen.

    • Beginne außen am Flachbandkabel des Akkus. Erwärme die äußerste Lötstelle und hebele gleichzeitig vorsichtig unter dem Flachbandkabel nach oben, damit es sich vom Board löst. Wiederhole den Vorgang von außen nach innen für die anderen Lötstellen.

    Make sure to use plenty of flux to avoid lifting pads

    Craig - Antwort


    1. Do NOT use a metal spudger for this.

    2. Cover surrounding components with Kapton tape.

    3. Optional (if you found this tutorial and are replacing the volume/power flex cable and your battery is good) Cover two of the three leads with Kapton tape to avoid shorting a good battery.

    6. Set your temperature on your soldering iron with a flat chisel tip.

    7. Apply a little flux to a copper soldering braid.

    8. Place the copper braid on the contact that you want to de-solder - you may need to lightly hold it steady with your thumb in place.

    9. From the bottom of the cable very gently push up with your index finger.

    10. With your other hand, the one with your iron, gently press down to melt the solder, as soon as the solder melts use your index finger to gently push the cable up so as to disconnect the cable from the solder pad. Wait about 15 seconds for the solder to cool.

    11. Insert a piece of kapton tape between the cable and solder pad.

    12. Repeat steps 7-12 for the remaining two contacts.

    Country Computer Service - Antwort


    If using flux, be sure to use 94%+ alcohol (once the battery is disconnected completely) to clean off any remaining flux. Don't try cleaning flux off until the battery is removed to avoid pushing debris between contacts and onto other components that will cause a short.

    Rule of thumb, if power is flowing through a logic board don't apply alcohol or try to clean it. Always remove the power source then thoroughly clean. Pushing around small metal particles in alcohol while a device is "hot" is the fastest way to cause a short or electrical arching.

    Country Computer Service - Antwort

    Bonjour, j'Ai un gros problème, en enlevant la nappe, chaque connecteur a un morceau de nappe qui ne veux pas s'enlever, j'ai beau chauffé le métal mais je ne suis pas capable de les enlever, si quelqu'un pourrai m'aidé s.v.p.

    Merci !

    jonono2 - Antwort

    I followed what another user had suggested and didn't remove the logic board - it worked well and I managed to do it easily enough. However, when trying to remove the solder and cable from the battery terminals (it was really tricky) I think I may have pulled the pad off. I put my iPod back together anyway but now it won't boot, show up in iTunes when it's plugged in or (in fact) do anything. Could the possible loss of the middle terminal be the root of these problems?

    Dan - Antwort

    In this step DON’T USE A METAL SPUDGER!!! Use the plastic/nylon one from ifixit. Then there will be no chance of bridging the contacts on either the battery or the logic board.

    Lawrence - Antwort

    • Jetzt sollte der Akku frei vom Logic Board sein.

    • Entferne den alten Akku vom Logic Board und lege ihn zur Seite.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Benutze die Spitze eines Lötkolbens, um das Lötzinn auf den Lötstellen auf dem Logic Board schön flach zu formen. Die Fotos zeigen eine vorher und nachher Aufnahme.

    • Denke dran, die Lötstellen nicht zu stark zu erwärmen.

    Hello, I have pulled the middle pad off my iPod 4th Generation how can i repair this?

    Karl - Antwort

    I did the same thing and accidentally pulled the middle battery pad from the logic board. I know that I am supposed to gently remove the 'laquer' or 'shellac' covering around the area of the pad in order to expose the copper circuit underneath. I am just not sure which circuit I should be working with. A good closeup of the area to work on would be greatly apreciated.

    ALF -

    Best plan is to take it to Apple store.

    delriesenhuber - Antwort

    • Lege den neuen Akku an die richtige Stelle und richte den äußersten Kontakte mit der äußeren Lötstelle aus. Klebe das Kabel mit einem kleinen Streifen Isolierband so fest, dass das Kabel auf den Lötstellen gehalten wird.

    • Wenn du den Akku mit der Unterseite nach oben einbaust, ( dann zeigt das Kabel nach oben) wird das Logic Board zerstört.

    • Klebe das Isolierband über das Ende des Flachbandkabels zum Akku, so dass zwei der Lötstellen bedeckt sind und die Kontakte am Logic Board festgehalten werden.

    • Erwärme den Kontakt ganz rechts, bis das Lötzinn darunter schmilzt, bringe dann etwas Lötzinn am Kontakt an, so dass es durch die beiden Löcher im Kabel zum Logic Board durchfließt.

    • Bringe nicht zu viel Lötzinn an. Eine winzige Menge ist völlig ausreichend für eine gute Verbindung.

    • Wenn das Lötzinn die Verbindung hergestellt hat, musst du sofort den Lötkolben und den Lötdraht entfernen.

    Kommentar hinzufügen

    • Bewege das Stück Isolierband weg, so dass es nicht mehr die beiden restlichen Lötstellen bedeckt. Wenn du mit der Position der Kabel zu den Pads auf dem Logic Board zufrieden bist, kannst du weiter arbeiten. Wenn nicht, musst du die erste Verbindung entlöten und es nochmal probieren.

    • Löte die beiden restlichen Pads auf das Logic Board. Achte darauf, dabei weder das Kabel noch das Board zu überhitzen.

    Kommentar hinzufügen


Um dein Gerät wieder zusammenzusetzen, folge den Schritten in umgekehrter Reihenfolge.

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Jake Devincenzi

Mitglied seit 18.04.2011

106.624 Reputation

57 Anleitungen geschrieben

Where do i get the best quality battery?

Dave - Antwort

Did it! Now screen is a bit funky when I press on the sides of the iPod. Although all seems good :)

Thanks iFixit!

Philipp Boulanov - Antwort

I had a similar problem when pressing on the center button. Turns out it was too much solder on the battery connector. I had to disassemble again and used some solder wick to lower the solder blobs. I suspect that the back plate must not be completely flat for you.

Joshua Belcher -

I followed this guide to the letter but the new battery only has half a charge and will not take a charge when plugged in. Any thoughts?

Bill Lee - Antwort

To clarify, does the battery show as charging when plugged in? If so, will it go from no/low charge back up to half charge? If this is the case, I would contact whoever sold you the battery and ask for a replacement.

Joshua Belcher -

For those using rework stations, what temperatures are recommended for the iron & hot air blower?

Daniel Lott - Antwort

The following temperatures worked well for me:

150ºC hot air for softening adhesives.

290ºC for removing old solder.

Make sure to add liquid flux before removing all traces of old solder, & clean all surfaces.

Apply new flux to both sides of Kapton cables as well as the board. Set your iron temperature acording to the recommended setting for your ROHS electronics solder.

*DO NOT USE NON ROHS or lead bearing solder*

*DO NOT USE plumbing or acid core solder as this will destroy your electronics*

Daniel Lott -

To anybody who gets a white screen when trying to power on the device, all that is needed is a forced restart, just hold the home and power buttons until you get the apple logo

Hugh Powell - Antwort

Invaluable. especially re screw lengths-though how you tell a 2.3mm screw from a 2.4mm screw is a bit of a poser. Unsoldering the battery before folding the logic board out of the way worked for me. Unsoldering the old battery connections was difficult, though, as the battery fitted had the connections apparently covered in plastic. Didn't find any problems using leaded solder - certainly in UK it is allowed for repair work.

Steve - Antwort

Just to say, Thank you! :)

Marc - Antwort

I was a complete and total newbie. I replaced the battery and the screen with this tutorial. I accidentally missed a screw and I think that is why my volume down button didn't make it out alive but that was my only casualty. As I have never soldered before I watched a youtube video on soldering tips first and that helped my confidence. Overall it was very stressful but I have kids too which added to that, but it was a success! Thanks for this very detailed awesome guide!

Aimee Gordon - Antwort

Although these are very nice, detailed instructions, I ruined my Ipod on Step 19. If you do not lift the assembly carefully at this step, the FPC cable attached between the logic board and the case will tear VERY EASILY!

Carlos - Antwort

I just did this with (relative) ease, but I turned it back on yesterday and have had it plugged in the whole time, and it WILL NOT charge! It being my first ipod repair there were a number of casualties, but nothing I considered to be life or death...

1) internal speaker wire got sliced somehow, not even sure how...

2) ribbon cable to volume control completely separated (again, not even sure how)

How does the battery even get power? It's just soldered to the logic board....does electricity just go through the soldering/ribbon cable into/out of the battery?

Chris - Antwort

Hello, first of all, congratulations on the great guide!

I`d like to give a hint. You don`t NEED to go through all the steps to change the battery. You can skip STEPS 16 to 23. You don`t need to actually remove the logic board to change the battery. Just desolder the connections and pass the riboon below the board. That`ll save some time.

Another hint is BE CAREFUL with the heat gun. I used it too much and I think that I`ve damaged something. But it was my fault =[

Great guide, thanks!!

Luiz R - Antwort

after i have change a battery a have lost touch on the corner of the screen, tyhere is a way to fixc that or i have to change the sreen and lcd.

piergagne1 - Antwort

I did the same thing and accidentally pulled the middle battery pad from the logic board. I know that I am supposed to gently remove the 'laquer' or 'shellac' covering around the area of the pad in order to expose the copper circuit underneath. I am just not sure which circuit I should be working with. A good closeup of the area to work on would be greatly apreciated.

ALF - Antwort

I skipped steps 6 and 9-23 and it worked perfect. Pulled the battery out without removing the logic board after snipping the bad battery flex cable fed the new battery flex carefully between the logic board. Beware... tons of adhesive between battery and copper tape below

trevor - Antwort

I broke unfortunately my iPod touch when I tried to replace the battery. I didn't have the specific tools to open it so I damaged it when opening it. I bought Samsung phone next week to replace my iPod, it's easy to change battery to it.. no more integrated batteries!

mikkoharkonen2 - Antwort

My battery is to small. It didn't work and my iPod won't work for ever. All in all it was more difficult than I thought. DIE KACKE IST SO RICHTIG AM DAMPFEN!!!!

0815Hater - Antwort

ok so i dont know if i need to replace my battery or what to do?!?! because my ipod is getting really slow and crashes alot! and i need to charge my ipod 4 alot!

isaiah75 - Antwort

Completed battery replacement over two days. Everything is working. The carefully worded procedure, although sufficient, is not for the faint of heart! Patience is paramount. Adhesive, 'foam rubber' seals, silicone over battery pads, and odd-shaped speaker and other components provided added challenge for me. I made good use of additional items: 7X fine tip tweezers, Exacto knife, plastic dental pick, additional tiny screwdriver, solder wick, Kapton tape to provide extra layer of insulation over new battery pads, and OptiVisor to accommodate my 66 yr old eyesight. Without these instructions, the battery replacement would have been near impossible. Thanks.

Alan Hutchenreuther - Antwort

I replace the battery and it worked but a few days later it stopped working, open it up and I messed up the FTC connector, now need to replace FTC connector and the flex cable, help please how to do it?


Thank you for the guide!

My ipod ran through the washing machine and the dryer, the battery appeared to be unable to charge. So I changed it with the guide.

I was able to change the battery at the step 17, I skipped the step 13 and 15, and I could have skipped 9 to 11 with the headphone jack.

It was not easy to pry the different parts and to seat back the LCD cable at the end, be patient!

Ludovic Fontaine - Antwort

Well I amimpressed even a begginers hands and a good mind can build and repair there own once you have the tools and in some cases the right tools are the right wrong tools improvise and thismi pod pid pods pide pode poa pia ND THANK YOU ON MY NEW JOB I NOW REPAIR AND IX ALL KINDS OF EQUIPMENT

is the best tutorial on subjects on these

jspataro420 - Antwort

Wow, that was hard. However the ipod survived and is fully functional. Thanks for the guide!

jimjty - Antwort

Yes I accomplished this but it was difficult. Really wish Apple was a bit nicer about designing these things. I found that using a heating pad worked really well a loosening up the adhesive. I felt it was a bit safer than the heat gun approach less likely to have overheating issues.

Brian Lenz - Antwort

I follow the guide to replace battery and it work. Had some what of a time removing the battery because the adhesive was adhering strongly, but finally it separated from the housing. Desoldering and resoldering and the reassembling went well.

So now I have my ipod back . Thanks for the wonderful guide.

Maggie - Antwort

Hi ,

My ipod touch wasn't working and when I charge my ipod touch it wasn't working for a long time. can you please help me, Thanks

Angela - Antwort

This did not help.

Maddie c - Antwort

This did not help. Maybe I need to throw my iPod out.

Maddie c - Antwort

Hello, I have a 4 gen iPod touch 32 GB, I need to repair BUT I dropped three screws in the vent by my desk and can NOT find them. FAT Fingers VERY SMALL screws. Where can you find these ? They are

One 2.3 mm Phillips screw

One 2.4 mm Phillips screw

One 2.0 mm Phillips screw

Thank you for your valuable time and Info. Have A Blessed Day. Regards'

jeanyondervich - Antwort

Hello, I have a 4 gen iPod touch 32 gb, I need to repair BUT I dropped three screws in the vent by my desk and can NOT find them. FAT Finger's Very SMALL Screws!!!!!!! Very Old House! They are

One 2.3 mm Phillips screw

One 2.4 mm Phillips screw

One 2.0 mm Phillips screw

Where can I find these? Do these come in a pack? Thank you for your valuable time. Have A Blessed Day. Regards'

jeanyondervich - Antwort

I ended up breaking the board at 18... I think this step could be skipped... I think one could unsolder the ports after 17. Remove the battery, install, the battery en resolder after that point... Thanks anyways...

Charles Brillon - Antwort

Hi, I have replaced the battery, at first, the spare shiiii...ty battery was weird and only charged to 50% then it never charged until it ran out of any charge.

then after detaching the shiiii...ty battery, in the middle of the process I accidentally broke the "volume" and "touch screen" flat cable, and lost all the mini screws.

fortunately, the main board was intact and i connected it to a very ordinary 3.7 V-4000 mAh lipo battery and it work perfect!! (naturally it does not fit in the casing anymore!)

sometime i detach the LCD panel and I use it only as a very powerful and compact music player!

My advice ~ {{{{{{{{{ Don't waste your money on the "Original" shiiii...ty spare batteries, you can buy an ion-battery as cheap as a few bucks in any capacity }}}}}}}}}}}}}

farhad sedri - Antwort

Nerve wracking but successful, thanks to your step by step picture perfect explanation.

valman - Antwort

Thanks! I replaced the battery successfully- Great instructions-

However- Can anyone tell me how I killed Wifi?


david brien - Antwort

Who ever thought integrated batteries were a good idea should be punched.

Wes InIowa - Antwort

Good, it is called very complicate !!! Apple does all to make it nearly impossible to change the battery. But I did it !!! I am happy. It took me about 6 hours an d at the end I missed the instruction how to glue all together again.? I fortunately bought the set for it together with the battery. But cleaning all from the old glue took half of the time. Thank you for the good step by step instruction.

Dieter Rozowski - Antwort

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