Einleitung
Ich habe einen Liftmaster-8500 und als ich eines Tages nach Hause kam öffnete derÖffner die Tür nicht. Ich hörte einen schwachen Piepton, also ging ich in die Garage und stellte fest, dass der verdrahtete Öffner (888LM) beide Lichter (rot/gelb) blinkten und es ständig piepte. In der Anleitung zur Fehlerbehebung hieß es, die Hauptplatine des Öffners ist defekt. Ich bestellte die Platine und tauschte sie aus (hat viel gekostet), aber das Problem blieb bestehen. Also entschied ich, den Öffner auseinanderzunehmen und mir das genauer anzuschauen. Die ausgebeultne Kappen waren sofort zu sehen. Ich dachte mir, Teile für 2$ sind einen Versuch wert. Der Ersatz-Öffner kostet circa 45$ Einzelhandel.
Was du brauchst
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Das hier ist der Toröffner, 88LM. Die rote und die gelbe LED blinken ständig und er piepst. Es hat nichts gebracht, die Hauptplatine auszutauschen.
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Öffne den Abdeckung und entferne die Schraube. Drehe das Gerät um und du wirst einen Draht sehen, der an zwei Schrauben befestigt ist. Entferne diese Schrauben und ziehe das Papier von der Rückseite ab. Du musst die Platine von oben aufhebeln und dann nach oben herausziehen.
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Ich habe kein Foto gemacht, aber die alten Kondensatoren waren oben leicht ausgebeult. Ich bestellte zwei von digikey, 1F 2.7V JUWT1105MCD. Die alten waren 1F 2,7V, stelle einfach sicher, dass sie in die Löcher passen, da sie eng beieinander sind.
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Im Bild siehst du die ersetzten Kappen. Biege sie leicht nach vorne, damit sie in das Gehäuse des Öffners passen. Und baue alles in umgekehrter Reihenfolge wieder ein.
Awesome repair and spot on!
My capacitors weren’t bulged either but after replacement it is operational once again.
Thank You for writing this repair up
Paul
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Nach dem Austausch der Kappen habe ich den Liftmaster wieder installiert und jetzt funktioniert mein Garagentor wie es sollte! Ich habe einige Bewertungen auf der Website von Liftmaster für das 888LM gelesen und viele beschweren sich über seine kurze Lebensdauer und den komplizierten Austausch.
Nach dem Austausch der Kappen habe ich den Liftmaster wieder installiert und jetzt funktioniert mein Garagentor wie es sollte! Ich habe einige Bewertungen auf der Website von Liftmaster für das 888LM gelesen und viele beschweren sich über seine kurze Lebensdauer und den komplizierten Austausch.
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32 Kommentare
My caps were not bulging, but both openers were flashing red & yellow. Bought them in 2014… guess I should count myself lucky they lasted this long! Super easy fix—Nichicon cap’s mentioned above from Digikey work a treat.
Side-note to newbees: make sure you get the polarity right! The cap has a grey stripe on one side—that’s the negative side. The PCB has +’s and -’s printed on the silk-screen (somewhat covered up since it’s 2 caps next to each other). Also, the cap outline on the PCB has one side with a thicker line—that’s the negative side. The pic in the guide has everything correct—follow this if you’re unsure.
Thx for the details!
Oh good catch on Polarity!
Parnell -
Replaced caps and it has been a week with no weird red and yellow blinking or beeping episodes. My caps we're not bulging.
-Nick
I’m so glad I found your posting! Thank you so much! I have the exact same model installed in 2016. A few days ago, the control panel also started beeping and flashing red light every 5-10 seconds. My garage door still opens though. The beeping sound was driving everyone nuts. I called the garage door company and they called LiftMaster and told me I need to buy a replacement control panel (~$85). After pressing for the cause, they finally told me the capacitors went bad. I then followed your recommendations and bought the parts from DigiKey. Everything worked like a charm! So happy I’m not adding to the electronic waste land! Thank you so much!
I had the two blinking lights as described, but no beeping. My garage door was going up and down by itself endlessly until I unplugged it. My caps were not bulging, but one of them leaked fluid onto the pc board. I bought the recommended 1F 2.7V caps, replaced them on the pc board, and now it works perfectly! It appears that Liftmaster bought a bad lot of capacitors. Or, the circuit was poorly engineered and these new caps are doomed to fail again like their predecessors.
Thanks a million for posting this fix!!!
I have this exact same behavior with one of mine now. I’ll be trying the same. Assuming I’ll need to get a soldering iron too. Thanks!
Neighbors just called me and td me my garage was up…. Saw the blinking lights. Guess im having the same issue. This is the first post I saw…Will be fixing tomorrow morning.
had the same issue, blinking and beeping. Got the recommended capacitors and replaced. Works fine now!
One note, when I reinstalled the MyQ opener after soldering in the new caps, the red and yellow lights were still blinking (slow, then fast, then slow), but no beeping. I thought my fix didn’t work. After a few minutes it beeped and went to normal and has been that way and working fine since.
Ah yes, it takes 30 seconds to a minute for the wall opener to charge up and become ready. This is normal, but yes, can make you think it didn’t work!
Parnell -
Super grateful for this post. I have a question. I’m trying to install the new capacitors and don’t know anything about circuit boards. Do I need to pull out the four wire prongs that connect the capacitor with the circuit board? Or do those stay installed and pop off the capacitors only? If I do need to pull out the wire prongs from the circuit board, any suggestions on how to do that safely? My only experience with a solder Iron is doing car speakers in high school :) Thx everyone so much!!! -Mike
Hey Mike,
You will want to unsolder/desolder the capacitors, and the legs will come with the caps. If you would like, just look up some videos on YT for desoldering through hole components.
Parnell -
Greatest ifixit ever! I ordered the same caps and they’re actually smaller diameter than factory. Only one of mine had poofed, but I replaced both. I’m so grateful to improve on the factory product…buying a new one does not solve the longer term problem with those factory caps! Hopefully the new ones last and it’s not a circuit design problem by Liftmaster. But I bought an extra, just in case! Thanks so much!
Update: The opener has returned to the beeping after a couple of days.. I replaced one of the two capacitors but the beeping returned for a second time. I’m going to replace both one more time and if it fails again, I assume it’s something else in the circuit.
Ah, man sorry to hear it broke again. I would bet there is another voltage issue on the board like you said.
Parnell -
Update 2: apparently Liftmaster has acknowledged the problem and is offering a free replacement. The problem now is they are out of stock with not waiting list. Here’s the link. https://cloud.info.liftmaster.com/888LMR...
I read Christian’s comment and called Liftmaster and explained my symptoms and that my understanding was the capacitors failed. He took my info and is sending me a new unit. He said it’ll go out today or tomorrow. That said, I ordered the new caps as above and at some point may try to salvage the old wall control.
The button would still open/close the door but the timed auto closing no longer worked. When the time was up both LEDs on the pad would just blink rapidly and it didn’t make the warning beep. My caps weren’t bulging yet but there was seepage on the bottom of one and an oily residue underneath. Works like new now. Thanks so much for posting this!
Thanks for showing the problem. Control Panels are covered under a free replacement free shipping extended warranty until September 2023. Visit the Liftmaster website for the warranty alert on the 888LM Control Panels.
Which is great for them to do. However many members have signed up for that replacement and it has been 6 months or more, and no replacement has been sent from the manufacture.
Parnell -
Aces! But I recommend checking your specific control panel model first.
The cosmetically-identical control panel for my RJO20 started behaving erratically two weeks ago. Blindly following this thread, I ordered the two capacitors mentioned in Step 3. Upon disassembling my control panel, I found (a) my control panel’s model number (041A7928-3, 10/19) was not the 888LM, and (b) my circuitboard had larger 3.0V 1F caps. I shrugged my shoulders and installed the 2.8V caps anyways. The opener hasn’t misfired in 3 days—success! (If I were to do it again I would order the apples-to-apples 3.0V caps.)
Thanks so much for the post!
Thank you for this guide.
Free replacement through 2023 / Recall Info for the 888LM to get a free 889LM (form link halfway down page):
https://learngaragedoors.com/liftmaster-...
How I got here:
I have the 888LM from 2013, and it has gone bad, but in a slightly different way around the capacitors. No bulging, but there is what looks like a short around the base of the capacitor that overlaps a bit with the surrounding circuit - it is blackened and slightly ruffled in texture. That explains the sound as it slowly sizzled out.
Originally randomly got red/yellow lights violently flashing non-stop, then this time it happened, I was cleaning safety sensors and noticed the panel lights now just showed dimly flickering red light accompanied by a sizzle sound." Yikes. With this guide to give me heart, opened to find the short. Great that the recall gives me a new circuit board as swapping the capacitors wouldn't have fixed the damaged board.
Hey guys! Just found your post i have one lm888 installed in 2014 and one of the caps is bugling so i just ordered the caps that you mentioned. But i already i bought an lm889 but the problem is still there with the brand new controller. Can someone help me?
Thank you for this guide, I had exactly the same problem, and after replacing the 2 caps everything works again. The only thing that I would add is that I ordered the JUMT1105MPD Nichicon caps (rather than JUWT1105MCD as stated above) because my original caps had a 3.5mm hole spacing, 8mm diameter and 13mm length, which is an exact match for the JUMT1105MPD from Digikey.
Hey all,
I am having this exact issue. Replacing the caps seems to be one solution, and might be the faster solution.
The other solution as smellduumpster shared is to work through the replacement program through Liftmaster/Chamberlain.
I'm in Canada so filling out the form in the link provided above didnt work (its a USA form).
However, I called Chamberlain directly at 1-800-528-5880 and within 5 minutes of being on the call, the customer service rep had confirmed a replacement unit will be getting shipped out to me in Vancouver, Canada shortly. She was extremely helpful so this is definitely another option.
Thought I would share in case other folks in Canada come across this issue.
Husband and I just did the same fix, ordering the recommended parts from digikey. It worked for us as well. We did not have a soldering workstation, just a soldering gun, so had to get creative. We melted the old capacitor wires loose, then heated up the holes and shoved pins in them, wiggling so the solder wouldn’t seal them. We then had nice holes to mount the new capacitors through. Soldered in place, trimmed back wires and reassembled. Side note: lift master is now sending free replacement 888LM wall mount openers until 2023. I went ahead and ordered one to have on hand.
This is exactly what was wrong with my garage door opener. Mine was beeping and flash red light on MyQ for several months. If I unplugged it, then plugged back in, it would stop beeping and flashing, but would start again after using the opener. I was constantly unplugging it to reset it. Eventually it got worse and door started opening on its own. Found this post…One of my caps was clearly bulging. My garage door was installed in 2015. It cost me only $33 to buy a soldering iron from Home Depot and 2 capacitors from DigiKey. Now it works perfectly again. Thank you for posting this!
I have a self-installed Liftmaster opener (with a janky but functional short chain and sprocket system to mate with an incompatible spring tube system), so i don't really want to have to rely on a pro to come fix things. I had the same issue as mentioned in this article. As with others, i opened up the control box and found that there was some goo under the caps. After desoldering, one of the caps actually lost a leg - indicating it had separated internally. Replaced those caps with ones from digikey (49 cents each), and after the momentary scare of the unit still blinking red and yellow, it eventually went back to normal. I'm on day 4 of it working fine again.
The hardest part of many repairs is the diagnosis - i'm super happy i found this article to guide me to what needed to be done. Thanks for posting this!
I am having the same issue. After hours of research I did discover the capacitor fix but I also discovered that for the 8500W, the compatible wall mount controller is the 880LMW. This is because of the frequency level. So I’m trying to now sort out if I should fix the capacitor issue or buy the 880LMW. Anyone have recommendations or experience with this. Note, I am also using the MyQ system with my opener.
Red and yellow lights are flashing the no pause for a few seconds start flashing again. It has a beep about every 10 seconds I replaced the capacitors. I put a whole new control pad on it still will not open or close. It’s just like it’s not charging. I watch a few videos on this and they say when the red and yellow is flashing that it is charging and should only last about 5 minutes or so. I had replace the mother board about 2 years ago.
