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Die Xbox 360 ist die zweite Spielekonsole der Firma Microsoft und erschien in Europa am 2. Dezember 2005.

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Xbox 360 inflated capacitor?

Hi everyone,

I'm working on a white 1st gen xbox 360, which freezes soon after start-up. From other answers I've seen, I'm guessing I am seeing pre-RROD signs.

I opened it up and cleaned out alot of dust, which helped a little (system froze on home screen rather than after Xbox logo.), and noticed a inflated capacitor at C6C2.

Is the capacitor worth replacing, and can it help fix the freeze problem?

Here is a picture. (Third from left) From reading it I can tell its a 2200uf 6.3v. Other than that, is there a specific variant of the capacitor I need to look for?

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I do not have a schematic handy, but if it is one of the large(ish) electrolytic capacitors, and its top has bulged or split, replace it.

These capacitors are part of the circuits that supply power to the processor unit(s), and when they go bad they can indeed cause the processor(s) to "hang" or overheat. My personal experience is that in about half of cases where computers are acting up, the cause is bad power supply capacitors.

It would be a good idea to check the other capacitors too. When one goes, the others usually are not far behind. Keep in mind that a capacitor may be bad even if it has not (yet) bulged or leaked. The only way to be sure if a capacitor has gone bad is to test its ESR (Equivalent Series Resistance). While standard multimeters cannot measure this parameter, you can build a simple but effective ESR meter yourself for a few bucks. I highly recommend it, this little instrument will save you a lot of time and trouble if you regularly work on any type of switching power supply circuit.

Caveat: replacing electrolytic capacitors on a motherboard is not an easy task. Getting them out without damaging the motherboard being the major problem.

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I updated the question with a picture of the capacitor. If I go for the capacitor solution, is there a particular variant of 2200uf 6.3v I should look out for? Thanks.


Use a premium quality capacitor, brands such as Nichicon, Rubycon, Panasonic, Elna.

The original part may have labelling indicating the max. operating temperature (not visible in the photograph), this is either 85°C or 105°C. The latter tend to have longer life than the former, so a cap specced for 105°C is preferred.

Also, some types are specced as "Low ESR", these are preferred for use in any type of switching power supply.

Using a 10V part instead of 6.3V doesn't hurt.

Obviously, the replacement should have similar dimensions as the original part, diameter and lead pitch being the most critical.

Reputable suppliers will have datasheets available for download, peruse and compare specs such as ESR (the lower the better), max. ripple current (the higher the better) and lifetime (the longer the better).

A quick search at Farnell brings up Rubycon XYG series and Panasonic FM series, both are rated 5000 hrs @ 105°C with ESR less than 0.1 ohms and max. ripple current in excess of 2A, but availability may depend on where you are located.


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Ben Eccles wird auf ewig dankbar sein.
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