No backlight, fuse blown? Works fine except backlight! A1398

Question

MacBook Pro (15 Zoll, Anfang 2013, Retina Display)

2.4GHz, 2.7GHz, oder 2.8GHz quad-core Intel Core i7 Prozessor (mit Turbo Boost bis zu 3,8GHz) mit 6MB geteiltem L3 Cache.

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viffviff @viffviff

Rep: 69

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Veröffentlicht: 5. Jan 2017

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No backlight, fuse blown? Works fine except backlight! A1398

Hi! I will add a picture of the damaged area

Just bought this MacBook Pro 15' Retina from 2013, previous owner thought the screen was bad, but when i looked i could still see the display if i used a lamp.

I took of the back cover, it looks completely fine except for one small area, which i think has to do with the backlight?

There are absolutely no signs of water damage, but i guess that the fuse has broke because of water.

Now the question, is there any easy way to fix this without using a hot air station, which i dont have.

Can it be fixed with a soldering iron only?

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Gewählte Lösung

Reece @reecee

Rep: 34,8 Tsd.

eFix Ltd (UK)

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The backlight fuse is in the area to the right of the keyboard connector, brown with a little "P" on it. With the battery disconnected, measure continuity on the fuse, if it beeps it is good.

You can replace this with just a soldering iron. Touch one side of the fuse, and make a ball of solder, until it surrounds the fuse. Depending on how good your iron is at putting power down, it will eventually pull the fuse off.

Before soldering a new one on, check continuity to ground on both fuse pads by putting one probe on a screw hole and the other on a pad. If there is a short (beep) on one side, there is something shorting that side to ground, which is why the fuse blew. If this is the case, you will have to find out what is causing this to happen (will get into this if this is the case).

If there is no short, put fresh solder on the pads (not too much, since you are not using hot air, you want to keep it fairly even) and then solder both sides of the new one on, using tweezers to hold the fuse.

Before powering on, check the LCD connector and cable to see if there are any burnt pins or melted plastic, this will likely blow the fuse.

Add a picture of the damaged area, and I'll help out :)

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Now when i looked closer, i can see that fuse is blown, half of the fuse is missing haha...

There are no signs of damage on ANY of the other components that i can SEE, Can you link a replacement fuse? :)

I will add a gyazo link with a picture of the area, and as you will see it doesnt look very good.

5. Jan 2017 von viffviff

https://gyazo.com/bb68f74c0c289a793105f9...

Link with the picture, if i put the both probes of a multimeter on both sides of the fuse, then put it to measure amps, would this make the backlight work, just to test before i order a replacement fuse?

5. Jan 2017 von viffviff

Clean the scorch marks (using isopropyl) and since half the fuse is missing, measure for a short to ground on both sides for a short to ground. If none is present, order a new one from farnell/mouser/digikey, it is a 3A 32V 603 fuse.

Don't bridge the pads with solder, just order some fuses, since these are meant to blow to prevent damage to the circuit (so you just have to replace a fuse instead of a backlight driver and some capacitors).

There is no way to check if a fuse will resolve the issue, without trying one. If you are getting around 12.6V on the bottom pad, it should work fine if the rest of the backlight circuit is fine.

5. Jan 2017 von Reece

Ok i will test these, if i get it open again... One of the back screw are totally stripped now and wont come out... XD

5. Jan 2017 von viffviff

Yes, the multimeter does give a sound when i have the probe on of the sides of the fuse, not on the other side though.

Does this mean that there will be a !&&* of alot job to get it to work?

5. Jan 2017 von viffviff

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Now when i looked closer, i can see that fuse is blown, half of the fuse is missing haha...

There are no signs of damage on ANY of the other components that i can SEE, Can you link a replacement fuse? :)

I will add a gyazo link with a picture of the area, and as you will see it doesnt look very good. — viffviff
https://gyazo.com/bb68f74c0c289a793105f9...

Link with the picture, if i put the both probes of a multimeter on both sides of the fuse, then put it to measure amps, would this make the backlight work, just to test before i order a replacement fuse? — viffviff
Clean the scorch marks (using isopropyl) and since half the fuse is missing, measure for a short to ground on both sides for a short to ground. If none is present, order a new one from farnell/mouser/digikey, it is a 3A 32V 603 fuse.

Don't bridge the pads with solder, just order some fuses, since these are meant to blow to prevent damage to the circuit (so you just have to replace a fuse instead of a backlight driver and some capacitors).

There is no way to check if a fuse will resolve the issue, without trying one. If you are getting around 12.6V on the bottom pad, it should work fine if the rest of the backlight circuit is fine. — Reece
Ok i will test these, if i get it open again... One of the back screw are totally stripped now and wont come out... XD — viffviff
Yes, the multimeter does give a sound when i have the probe on of the sides of the fuse, not on the other side though.

Does this mean that there will be a !&&* of alot job to get it to work? — viffviff