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Bosch Dishwasher won't cycle or spray water. Any ideas?

Hi everyone, first time posting here. My Bosch shu43c05uc/17 dishwasher isn’t spraying water or cycling through. The spray arms are clean and the filter is clean, so I don’t believe that’s the problem. I’ll start it, hot water gets pumped in, and there’s a loud hum sound. It’ll run for the duration of the cycle, but it won’t cycle through the different modes. It’s a sound that isn’t typical. And sometimes it will sit on the last minute until I cancel the cycle. It is able to drain.

I’ve reset it via turning power off. I’ve run the diagnostic, but I don’t believe that’s working properly (only showing the number “2” which isn’t an option online). The Bosch manual is terrible and provides zero information on this. Bosch told me to reach out to an authorized service tech.

What are some options causing the problem? I’m not finding much information online and before I call the handy man, I’d like to narrow down my options because their troubleshooting gets quite costly. And I’d even do the repair myself if it was reasonable.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, thanks so much!

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@bigdchi #2 could be a heating fault. How did you run the diagnostics? Checked your circulation pump yet?

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I ran diagnostics by pressing normal and rinse/hold then the power button. It took a number of times to get it right. When it entered, it showed "2" immediately, which seemed odd for the test to start out showing an error, that's why I wrote it off. The test ran for about 5 minutes and it wasn't clear when it ended.

Where is the circulation pump located? Not being a technician, if I'm able to access the circulation pump, how would I know there's something wrong with it?

As for the heating element, forgive me if my comment is stupid here, but the water is getting heated, when it runs I can feel the heat when I open and cancel the cycle. I'm assuming there's another heating element that may play a role in this?

My gut tells me it's pump related (despite it being able to be drained) since water isn't being pushed up into the spray arms. Plus, the noise, which isn't terrible, just not normal, sounds like something isn't functioning properly. Are pumps a big repair?

Thanks for the help!

von

I have a bosch with the same problem, goes through the cycles but never washes with the sprayer. Inlet valve, drain motor, heater all seem to be working correctly, even spits out the soap when it should. I have tried a new circulation pump and control panel but no change. Mine is older so no fault codes. What was the fix for your washer?

von

bosch sgv56a13gb My Model No.

I have a bosch with the same problem, goes through the cycles but never washes with the sprayer. Inlet valve, drain motor, heater all seem to be working correctly, even spits out the soap when it should.

I had to clean out the inlet pipe below the pressure chamber leading into the machine as it was full of gunge.

Prior to cleaning this the Machine wasn't filling. It's now filling but similar probles to above. Incidentally the Pressure chamber Water Lever Control System looks a bit full of gunge also, so I'm wondering if this is my overriding issue?

Like the guys any help Greatly appreciated. As No Technician will come to my house now with the current lockdown situation.

Jim

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@bigdchi actually the digit #2 does make some sense:

DISHWASHER TEST PROGRAM ERROR CODES (on 2 & 3-digit digital displays):

0 –No faults

1 –Aqua Sensor (Sensotronic) fault

2 –Heating system fault (heater, Hi-Limit, flow switch, NTC, control heater relay)

4 –Water filling fault

8 –NTC (temperature sensor) fault

16 –Water switch fault

This should work for your model as well

Block Image

not sure where this different sound may come from but I wonder if this is not related to the flow switch

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Hi @oldturkey03 ,

Wondering if it is not the flow switch but perhaps something in the heater circuit, although you'd think since it passes through the cycle up to the drain point that perhaps the circulation pump is the problem.

Just fixed my Bosch dishwasher (different model I know) and it failed to start washing due to a faulty flow meter switch.

Works out that it checks that the washer is filling by signal coming from the flow meter switch, not because a float switch has operated when enough water has entered in a given time

$59AUD for a magnetic reed switch on a purpose designed pcb. Turns out the reed switch contacts were o/c when making contact. Couldn't find a glass encapsulated reed switch of the correct size or connection to fit correctly on the pcb. Oh well ;-)

von

@jayeff that is definitely a possibility worthwhile to be checked out. Trying to find the proper schematic for this model that might shed more light on this. Sure possible that the heater circuit pops up as a secondary fault.

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Hi @bigdchi ,

According to this link the dishwasher has a circulation pump (and also a replacement circulation pump impeller and seal kit - interesting that there is a replacement for this - does it fail often enough to have a spare!) as well as a drain pump.

This link also has the parts but also shows the parts diagrams (use the slider down the right side of the diagrams to see more), which may be of some help, e.g. the pump impeller kit part #424 is in the Component assembly diagram

Regarding the hot water. I was confused when you originally said that “….. the hot water gets pumped in…”. I took this to mean that you were supplying hot water to the dishwasher. If this was the case it may still require a heating element to increase the temp to the set wash temp if this was higher than what was supplied.

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@csaab ,

What is the model number of the dishwasher?

Have you checked that the spray arms are moving or have moved?

Try placing both spray arms in a position that you remember and then turn on the dishwasher. After it has filled and started to "wash" open the door and check the position of the spray arms.

It is the water pressure from the circulation pump that causes the arms to rotate, dispensing water.

If they haven't moved then you need to check if power is getting to the circulation pump or if both spray arms dispensing holes are all blocked which would seem unusual. If only the top spray arm hasn't moved then it may be a blocked pipe from the circulation pump to the spray arm as usually the lower spray arm is connected nearly at the pump housing

Since you have changed the pump and the control panel but not the control board first try using an Ohmmeter to check the continuity of the pump power supply wires from the control board to the pump. Do this with the power totally disconnected from the dishwasher.

If you know how to safely test for lethal voltages you could use a Voltmeter and check that voltage is being applied to the pump when it is in the wash cycle. Depending on your location it could either be 120V AC or 240V AC

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The model number of the dishwasher is Bosch SHX46A05UC/14. I have checked voltage with a meter, the circulation pump is getting 120v at the pump when it is supposed to be spinning but just sits and hums. The pump came with a new capacitor. Both pumps do the same thing as well as the control boards. Nothing sprays. It will go through a complete cycle , fill, etc, even the soap pops out of the dispenser when it should. Everything else seems to work as normal except the circulation pump. I have take apart the sump further to make sure there aren't any blockages. The aqua sensor looks ok, no build up of anything. It has to be something simple but not sure what else to look at. Any help would be awesome!

von

@csaab ,

I think that you may be correct.

The impeller in the sump may be jammed causing the motor not to turn

von

Both pumps do the same thing, no spinning and just humming, one is brand new. I took the pump cover off the old one thinking that was the problem to start with- something stuck in it, since the motor wasn't spinning and just humming. Nothing inside and the impeller moves /spins with the motor shaft, so I know the impeller is ok too and no blockage inside the old motor. Any ideas? I really appreciate the help.

von

Hi @csaab

It may be that there is only current flowing through the pump motor's run winding which is not enough to turn the motor from a stopped position.

The rationale here is that when power is applied to the motor, current flows through the capacitor to the start winding as well as through the run winding and when the motor is up to speed the motor's internal centrifugal switch operates and disconnects the start winding circuit i.e. no current flow through the capacitor.

Since the capacitor has been replaced check the wires to the capacitor to ensure that it (they?) have solid connections (both ends, all wires) and use an Ohmmeter to ensure continuity of the wires from end to end (that ones you can access anyway). The wire from the capacitor to the motor should have hopefully been checked in the factory since you said that the motor came already supplied with the capacitor

The spare parts diagram shows the capacitor has only two terminals so it is only a single capacitor and not a dual capacitor i.e.. start capacitor only, not dual cap start and run

The motor might be humming because there is no connection to the start capacitor and therefore the start winding of the motor.

The voltage that you are seeing across the motor terminals may be correct but if the start circuit is open circuit the motor won't start as it can't overcome the inertia on the run winding alone therefore the humming

If you could spin the motor by hand once the power was applied it most probably would keep running - don't try this though, too dangerous given the lack of good access

By secure connections I mean that if a wire goes into a plastic plug connector try to gently pull the wire out of the back of the connector or check how loose it seems in the connector when plugged in.

Obviously if you pull too strongly it might come out but normally it is crimped very tightly and won't budge

If you had a dressmaker's pin (with the bead on the end) you could pierce the wire insulation on one side of a connector to touch the wire with the pin and then connect an Ohmmeter to the pin and also to the connector inside the plastic at the front end and check for continuity. As always when using an Ohmmeter, disconnect the power from the machine

If there was enough slack in the wiring you may be even able to have a smell of the connector(s) to see if it smells burnt, (or even looks black when viewed where the wire connects at the front of the plug) indicating a loose connection therefore voltage being dropped across the connection therefore heat

von

I've looked at the wiring of the machine a little more closely now. The pump capacitor wiring is part of the motor assembly, no poor connections or bad wires for either pump. The capacitor wires bridge into the terminals of the motor. The only wires from the washer connect directly to the motor. A ground, hot, and neutral. The hot (black, I believe) after turning to white through a connector goes directly to the control panel. The neutral (purple, I believe), goes directly to the door switch. The door switch is a three pole switch, the purple from the motor, a brown that goes to the control panel, and a white from the power switch bridged to a brown that goes to the control panel- all in this order.

I suspect the door switch is bad on the motor circuit portion and not sending the pulsing power to the motor/ capacitor? I will do some ohms checking of the switch to see what I find but I think this has to be the problem. Your thoughts?

von

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Dan wird auf ewig dankbar sein.
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