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Das März 2015 Update von Apples 13" MacBook Pro Retina Display, Modell A1502, bietet fifth-generation Intel Core i5 und i7 Prozessoren der 5. Generation und führt den Force Touch Trackpad ein.

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Hall Effect Sensor Questions

Hey guys,

I’ve got an early 2015 Macbook Pro 13” that is randomly going to sleep. I took it to the Apple store in Syracuse NY and after installing a clean version of Catalina they did a display and LCD replacement for free (the guy working with me is really chill and I think that he did it for the kicks for a free screen.).

They told me that the next step would be to replace the top case. I really have no idea how that is suppose to help but they said it would cost $475 so I walked on that deal.

I did a good amount of research and I have good reason to believe that it is the hall sensor going bad or something. So I took it to a local repair shop and they said they would look at it and tell me how much it would cost. After a whole work week they finally got back to me telling me that it was soldered onto the board and they couldn’t do anything for me besides replace the logic board.

I went to the store while they had it open to see what it looked like. Turns out they never actually took the logic board out so they never actually saw the hall sensor and they refused to take the logic board out because they said that to get it out they would have to take everything else out, like the battery, fan, and what ever else, which I’m going to hit X to doubt that.

So I took it home and I’m thinking I’ll just do the repair myself. I’ve been working on computers since I was 12 so it’s not completely out of my league. Through all of my research it seems to me that it cannot be that hard to replace because it does not look to me like it is soldered to the board, granted as of writing this I have not seen it in person.

That is all to say, is the hall sensor soldered to the board or just connected to it?

EDIT:

Here’s the screen shots from Coconutbattery the first one is with charger the second is without.

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EDIT 2:

So I took it do a guy who happened to have a 2015 MacBook Pro 13” around that he could take apart and confirmed that the PCB is glued to the logic board and that the only way to repair it is to unsolder the IC itself and to replace that. I think that I’ll go to iPad Rehab who happens to be actually pretty close to where I live. Here are the photos I took, little did you guys know i’m actually a photographer.

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@oldturkey03 @danj Hey guys, I updated the original post with photos of it.

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@waspenatorjr always good to let somebody else take a look at it. Again, according to the schematic there should be a connector under the sensor. Good repair shop will of course figure out how to replace it.

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@oldturkey03 Where on the board are you looking on the schematic? I thought I had the hall sensor pinned to be what is pictured but it definitely does not come off without being desoldered. The board that was photographed was also a 2015 13" MBP but was a dead board so the guy actually pried at it with tweezers and it definitely was glued to the main board.

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I am looking at the schematic which refers to it as the J5250 connector. Not saying that it isn't glued into it. Soldering that beast would definitely be a tough job even for Apple. So, if it is not plugged in, it will be glued but most likely not glued directly to the board.

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@waspenatorjr it should just be connected to it. Take a good look at your I/O board (both sides but focus on the side that faces the lid) since that would be the perfect place for it.

If you cannot find it there check the logic board on the area that I marked as J5250 for the sensor. I currently do not have a board available for better picture so if you decide to check yours take some good clear pictures and post those with your question. I marked U3310 since that is the IC that is part of that the circuitry as well. Probably not relevant yet :-)

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Thank you so much. What I'm thinking I'll do at this point is get a broken board as a donor and take its hall sensor off to replace mine, so when you say it should do you mean that you have taken one off before? I'd like to confirm that it does come off easily because the donor board could cost up to $100 or more.

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I removed one from an I/O board which was tougher. This one looks like it is "plugged" in to J5250. Take a really close look at it first before trying to pry etc. Let us know what you find out. you can always check the Hall Sensor Chip by holding a magnet over it and seeing if the voltage on SMC_Lid goes low.

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Alright thank you for the help. I'll let you know with photos and all.

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@waspenatorjr - I would do some testing here to see if the hall switch is working as it should. Take a magnet and slide it along the edge where the ports are the display should wink out when you hit the sensor. Slide it off and the display should turn back on. If it is then I don’t think your issue is the sensor.

You might want to check your systems battery. Run this gem of an app CoconutBattery post a snapshot of the main window here for us to see, one with the charger connected charging and a second off battery only. Depending on what you discover your battery may need replacing.

Last thing is see if resetting the SMC help things here How to reset the System Management Controller (SMC) on your Mac

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Alright I'll do that. that's interesting you said about it working with running a magnet near the sensor because that's exactly what it does. Seems to work perfectly fine if I run a magnet near the sensor. There was only one time, last night actually, that it did not respond to a magnet but otherwise it always goes off with a magnet. I'll post the screen shots as soon as they're ready. Thank you.

P.S. The first thing I tried was a SMC reset.

P.S. 2 I was just thinking about it. I used the machine last night and this morning and it worked almost perfectly, only trying to sleep maybe once every hour or so, but when I plugged it in to charge and it got up past 80% it started to be way more frequent. Would that indicate that it is the battery?

@danj

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If you can notice if it is trying to shut off when the fan comes on or when it feels much warmer or hot? If so it may be going in to save energy mode. After some time of charging past 80% it may be much warmer by this time.

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@Duane Donaldson - Battery still looks good! Double check your disconnected snapshot you may have taken the snapshot a bit early as it is implying the battery is under charge. It should be under discharge.

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@danj Updated. Does it look good?

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Yes better! The load is normal.

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William Ewart wird auf ewig dankbar sein.
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