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Whirlpool Gold not using water after soap is dispensed

I have the WDF760SADM2 and it sometimes runs any cycle normally with no problem.

But often (with increasing frequency) it runs the cycle but doesn’t use any water after dumping the soap. At the end of the 2.5 hours (or whatever the normal cycle time is) the soap still lays in the bottom. If it wasn’t for the soap and mostly dirty dishes, there would be no indication the cycle was faulty. It runs the time down like it normally does.

This happens in all programs (sensor, normal, heavy 1-hour etc.)

Now that I pay attention I also hear that there is no water sloshing around. I also hear (a relay?) clicking, like it wants to start the pump or something. (but i’m not sure if it also clicks when it actually washes with water). I then open the door and see it steaming (I assume from the pre-wash before it opens the soap door) and the soap at the bottom and no water flowing. I then close the door and hit resume. SOMETIMES it then start using water. but sometimes i have to cancel, unplug the dishwasher and start over. Sometimes it works then (like with actually using water for the full 2.5 hours).

I made it a habit to unplug power for a minute before starting, which seemed to help. but not all the time.

Once the washer works, it works perfectly. If i open the door, i can tell that it is showering the dishes and hear the water sloshing around and the soap is dissolved and the dishes are clean.

No error codes. I also tested the soap dispenser door (that was my first guess thinking the door opens very late in the cycle). I also cleaned what I could.

Whirlpool Dishwasher stops after filling with water with similar symptoms, making it look like it could be the door latch ($18) or the pump-assembly ($150). But it also could be the door being bent and not making the lach switch close.

Is there a way to narrow down what it could be? If it is the latch switch, I wonder why the washer runs the cycle like it has water (i have the suspicion the heater also works, since it is steamy). I could measure wash motor resistance - the manual talks about 5-15 Ohm. but if the motor is bad, why would it work sometimes?

  1. rinse (with soap door closed) for about 5 minutes
  2. open the soap door
  3. wash with water
  4. probably a rinse cycle

The problem here it runs the normal sequence, but doesn’t use any water for 3. and 4.

I wanna take it apart more, but if someone could tell me what to look for or what to measure, that would be great.

Other suspects are the water valve (unlikely, since water always fails at the same time) or the control board.

Beantwortet! View the answer Ich habe das gleiche Problem

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The tests on this dishwasher CAN’T be done by checking voltage. The unit must be UNPLUGGED and all tests are done by measuring the ohms with a multimeter.

Troubleshootibg this would start with the float switch to ensure that it can manually be moved up and down and test the switch during moving it to see if the contacts open and close. If so, the next would be to check for a siphoning issue since you said this only happens towards the middle of the cycle. Since the d/w has filled several times so far, it’s possible that the home drain could be restricted and backing up after the d/w has filled and drained this many times. This would cause it to fill and drain at the same time and never allowing the d/w to hold the water needed to wash.

It could also be the drain pump stuck in a constant drain position. You should be able to hold the drain hose to determine if it’s draining. If you can see or hear the water drawing into the disposal and at the same time it’s filling, then it’s not a plumbing problem because If you hear the water splashing in the disposal then it has an air break. You would want to check the drain pump for debris keeping it in a drain position.

If it’s not filling at all, and the water inlet valve tests with ohms are good, it could still be an intermittent problem in the water inlet valve

There is no voltage test to be done to check the water valve. Simply unplug d/w or turn off at the breaker box. Turn off the water at the cut off valve under your sink. Remove the kick plate at the bottom of the d/w to view the fill valve on the left. You can then disconnect the water line to the valve and remove the 1/4” screw securing the valve and remove the rubber fill hose from the valve.

The tricky part is flushing you water line. This is the lowest water line in your home and sediment will collect in it. It needs to be flushed out. You might need to pull your d/w out to do this. You need to be able to open the cutoff under the sink all the way to allow a few gallons of water to flush out the line. The water pressure should be at least 60psi, that’s a good, strong stream of water. Then you are ready to replace the water valve.

The reason for not testing the water valve for voltage is that this sediment will work it’s way inside the valve. There is a rubber diaphragm that the sediment will build up on and cause the diaphragm to stick. It can stick open and cause the water to constantly flow into d/w, flooding your house. Or, it will stick shut, not allowing water to flow at all. It’s usually intermittent at first. It sticks sometimes and other times it’s fine. A voltage test won’t show this. It would test good because your only able to test the motor windings and not the moving parts.

The door switch will not cause this problem and since you said your hearing the motor running and it runs through all the cycles without error codes, then we know that it’s not an electrical issue. Error codes only show electric issues. More than likely, you have a failing water inlet valve.

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Thanks, LadyTech. Sorry for not responding for so long. I was postponing this till i had some time at home to take the washer apart to measure everything.

So far I have cleaned out the drain line donwstream of the air-gap. There was quite some grease/dirt after 14 years. i laos find some sort of 3” long metal needle in the P-trap.

BTW, the air-gap drains into the sink that doesn’t have the waste grinder. But i noticed when i drained the sink with the grinder and it had a lot of water in it, some of that water would come out in the other sink.

Then I flushed the water supply line. BTW, the water line is not the lowest in our house. the basement is under the kitchen. I didn’t notice any dirt coming out, though. so far i haven’t opened up the drain line (from washer to the air gap) since i feared putting it back on and getting sealed may be a problem. i also planned to just replace it at the time since over the years it may become brittle.

Well, after these measures it seems to work. It just starts and completes the cycle with water and i don’t have to unplug the washer. this has been good for over a week now. so i didn’t see a need to open up the washer to measure all the resistances.

So my best guess at this point is that the partially plugged drain somewhat prevented the washer from emptying, which prevented it from using new water. the only thing i don’t understand is that the plugged part was downstream of the air gap. I would think if there is not enough flow out of the air-gap, it would just spill over the counter.

Anyway, it works now. and cleaning out the kitchen drain every few years is a good idea.

Thanks for your help.


@karlmay I’m glad you got it working. I don’t understand why it wouldn’t back up in the sink via the air gap, unless it was clogged.

I live in South Texas and no one has basements here. LoL I forget that there are basements and many different and exciting things outside of Texas. Haha.

The 3” pin that you found, could it have been a tyne from one of the racks?

We might never know what the issue was, but cleaning the grease trap more often is a good idea.


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Hi @karlmay ,

I’m wondering if the problem is the water float valve that may be intermittently sticking or stuck operated.

This switch signals to the control board to turn off the water to the dishwasher.

If it is stuck operated no water will enter and the control board thinks that there is enough water in there to wash with.

Worth a look anyway.

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thanks for the response. I had neglected to mention that I tested the float (for dirt or being stuck) and the switch. I wasn’t able to find an actual bare wire of the lead to measure if the switch actually makes contact, I just clicked and move the lever. Let me know if there is a more definitive way to test (or where there is a good way to measure resistance). I didn’t want to remove wires from a terminal fearing it would be hard to re-connect.


@karlmay ,

Unless you can find a wiring diagram (I couldn't) to show where the float switch connects to the control board as you say it may be difficult.

Have you checked if you can "feel" the water entering the dishwasher for the wash cycle by holding the water inlet hose?

If you can't feel the water flowing then either the valve hasn't operated or the flow is blocked.

Have you checked if power is being supplied to the water inlet valve ?

Be safety aware when you try this as it is mains voltage that is being applied to the solenoid


jayeff: i have the wiring diagram. I’ll try to measure that again. but the wires terminate on the controller without really some bare metal to measure well. and the wires don’t look like i can remove them easily. At least I’m afraid to not be able to reconnect them easily (I don’t want to break more .. lol). Is there a trick how those wires can be re-moved and re-connected? I guess if I end up replacing parts I need to find that out.

Those terminals look like one can only terminate wires once (in the factory).

As for water flowing in, I can hear the water flowing in at the beginning (pre-rinse, before the soap dumps).

I didn’t measure voltage while operating. One, for lack of good points to measure. Two, when removing the door one disconnects the door controller, so one would have to McGyver to make it work then. Or is there some trick? i guess if i found safe ways to measure voltage i could narrow this down a bit more. If someone could give me a hint how to do SAFELY measure voltages while operating the washers it would help. i probably can rig something, but rather do it the right way (I sometimes end up breaking finicky plastic parts…)


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karlmay wird auf ewig dankbar sein.
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