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The Kenmore Elite HE3 is 7.2 cu. ft. capacity electric dryer by Kenmore.

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Display turns on but wont start. Unable to choose setting.

Dryer will not Start. Display to my dryer turns on when depressing the “Control On” button. The minutes are displayed under the “Heavy duty cycle” but when depressing the “Start” button, the dryer will not start. Also unable to choose any other drying cycle or setting when turning the knob. Just a few weeks before the the dryer not wanting to start, the drum belt was looking pretty bad so I took the dryer apart and replaced the belt myself. It was after I replaced the drum belt and putting everything back together that I noticed that the light bulb inside my dryer would sometimes not want to turn on when opening the door. The light bulb would flicker on and off and sometimes just not turn on. Didn’t think it was a problem because the dryer continued to start without any problems. Again, even with the light bulb inside the dryer not always turning on, the dryer started up without any problems. A few weeks later the drum rollers were replaced because they were making noises when dryer would turn and tumble. The NO START issue began after replacing the drum rollers and putting the dryer back together. I replaced the door switch thinking that the light bulb not wanting to turn on might also be related to the dryer not wanting to start. Replacing the door switch did NOT correct the “No Start” issue. FYI, the light bulb was flickering on and off the other day after opening the door. It was intermittent and only flickered after opening the door all the way and only after applying forces from different angles to the door hinge. It seems like the door hinge area (not the door switch) allows me to apply bending force and some how affects the light bulb in the dryer. Its almost like something electrical is not making full contact. As of yesterday, the light bulb doesn’t turn on or flicker when applying force from different angles to the door hinge (door hinge/pivot). I don’t believe the light bulb flickering is related to the “no start issue”. Only other thing I can remember happening was the the dryer control board located at the top left of dryer, falling off the side after removing the DRUM. One of the wires to the board came off the rear top of the dryer connector. There is this small connector that is located at the top rear of dryer where it receives two wires from the control board. The wire did come off with force but I reconnected the wire and is not lose. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Update (03/22/2021)

Removed the two ribbons (P4, 1-6 and P3, 1-14) from the Machine Control Electronics. I used a safety pin on the actual ribbon connector to perform the test. I followed the steps on "Checking Functions of Buttons and Rotary Cycle Selector" on page 11. Inserted a safety pin on the corresponding testing # to the ribbon, placed the +lead on the pin and used the -lead on the corresponding # on the connector to the board. While both leads were on their correct areas to test, the corresponding buttons were depressed to see if an ohm reading would register on my multimeter. After going thru each button listed on the chart I got "0L" on my multimeter. Went to check the Rotary Cycle Selector and also got nothing. Then went to test#2 and went to check resistance between P1-3 to P1-4. I got confused with this test because I wasn't sure if I had to disconnect the connector from the "Machine Control Electronics" board. I left the connector on the board and back probed using the -lead and + lead from my multimeter. I got sound and 2 ohms here. I then disconnected the connector from the board and decided to check out the readings at p1-3 and p1-4 on the board and got a reading of "0L". Went to check the connector with the wires at p1-3 and p1-4 and got 2ohms. Not sure if I am doing this right. On the first test performed it clearly says to unplug the ribbons for checking the rotary and buttons. On the other test it doesn't mention to unplug P-1. I also performed the "more time-less time, more time-less time" and all of the lights on the control display lit up with a number 88 also appearing on the minutes left display. While in this mode I opened the door and it beeped like the test showed it would if functioning correctly. I also used the wet towel on the moisture sensor strips in the dryer and it also made a beep sound indicating that this was also working correctly. Also was confused on a different test that called for the +lead to remain on p1-14 all the time. I cannot find p1-14 anywhere on my board. Kind of stuck right now. any help is greatly appreciated.

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Hi @xalismex ,

What is the model number of the dryer?


@jayeff Model# GGW9250PW3


I removed the belt pulley switch to check for continuity.

So it is correct to say that the switch is normally closed so I would expect to have a reading (value)? I get 0.3 ohms with an audible sound and when I depress the button to the switch the sound goes away and get 0L on the multimeter display. Am I testing the switch correctly?


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Hi @xalismex

Seems as though it may be OK as you get a short circuit when closed and an open circuit when it is operated. See switch on the wiring diagram (on p.2) in the tech sheet I linked below. The switch is designated as 4M Belt switch

Here’s the Instruction Sheet - 8558723

According to the troubleshooting guide on p.3 for Won’t start cycle when start button is depressed it says to check Test #2 on p.5 and test #6 on p.10.

Maybe that’s a good place to start.

Update (03/23/2021)


The P1-3 to P1-4 test seems OK as the reading is within the range of 1-6 Ohms. It doesn't mention that the cable has to be disconnected only that the power is disconnected.

With the button test did you allow enough time for the meter to change from OL to a reading as shown on the charts on p.11 or try using the diode test mode of the digital meter, as indicated in the text, you didn't mention if you did? It shouldn't have taken that long in any case perhaps a few seconds for the reading to start dropping from OL (infinity) to the nominated resistance

How did you do the rotary cycle selector test if the meter lead was not on P1-14?

Maybe I linked the wrong tech sheet.

According to this supplier and also this supplier the manufacturer’s “tech sheet” part number is 8558723 which is seen on the bottom of every page on the document that I linked. (search for “tech sheet” in the parts search box on the links I provided if you wish to verify this)

Sometimes there is a tech sheet enclosed in a plastic bag attached to the machine between the drum and the front on the inside of the cabinet. If you haven’t dis-assembled it this far maybe check if one is there as it may be different to what I linked

If there is none there then I wonder if it is a typo on the tech sheet and that the meter should be on P3-14, as you are measuring the controls on the user interface?

Figure 13 on p.12 shows that P1 only has 5 connections which is verified by the wiring diagram on p.2 which also only shows P1-1 to P1-5 connections and no more.

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My last post was too long and wouldn't fit so I had to post it under an updated post (3/22/2021)


I am using the trouble shooting schematic that came with my dryer (part no. 8558723). Maybe my trouble shooting manual is not the right or like you said, there might be a typo but the guide was in a plastic package that was affixed to the inside of bottom dryer cover. Test #2 (Motor Circuit Test, Step 2 says to measure the resistance across P1-3 and P1-4. It continues to say “if the resistance across P1-3 and P1-4 is in the range of 1-6 ohms, replace the machine control electronics”. Yes, I did hold the buttons long enough to try to get a reading. What’s confusing is the information for trouble shooting on page 11. Some of the info appears not not be applicable to my dryer. I do not see P1-14 anywhere on my control board that sits on the top and left side of the dryer. Could it be that P1-14 is behind the display control? On the chart I see that I have to test at P1-11, P1-10, P1-9, P1-8. I don’t see those numbers on my dryer board. Your guide on page 12 also mentions testing with P1-14.



Maybe it means that you disconnect the cable on the "control board" and then test at the end of the cable which is still connected to the interface board i.e. the control panel

What are the connector numbers shown on the "user interface" i.e. the control panel, is it P1 and P2? Perhaps you can't see as maybe the cables just come out of a sealed control panel and plug into the control board

Looking at the wiring diagram on p.2 of the tech sheet the cables from P3 and P4 on the Control board go to connectors on the "user interface" board (maybe this is actually the control panel).

I think that the cable should be disconnected from the user interface and then you test "into" the user interface as described and not test into the control board.

I don't know the machine but I think that the user interface would be where the buttons are


Is the “interface” the front display panel where the buttons and rotary are located? Will try looking into the interface to see if I can test from there. Will report back. Thanks!



I think that the interface is the front display so as I said if you can't access the 'board" in the front display connect your meter to the cable coming out from there.

You have to disconnect it from the control board and connect your meter as best that you can to the ends of the cable itself.

If your meter has probes then try not to "bridge" between two adjacent wires on the cable.

As I stated earlier perhaps P3 on the control board = P1 on the interface board in the display panel


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Gil Ramirez wird auf ewig dankbar sein.

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