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Modell von 2011, A1278 / 2,4 GHz i5 oder 2.8 GHz i7 Prozessor.

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Logic board not seeing battery according to diagnostic at repair shop

Would really like a go at fixing this myself if repair shop guys are going to just give excuses why they can’t do it. The serial number is C1MHJ7BLDV13

is this possible or am I dreaming?

Update (04/08/2021)

I just did a search on here and a lot says about the MagSafe DC, I ordered one and the tools and will give it a try. If not that I will have to replace the logic board and try to find one somewhere, I’m determined not to give up on this thing as I put a bunch of RAM in and a new battery recently.

Basically, when I pull out the power cable it stops working. It sat in a puddle but the only issue is not holding charge from what I can tell, battery is pretty new, do the I fix it guys have logic boards for late 2011 13” MacBook Pro?

I’ll try the new mag safe part first.

having trouble running the D as nothing is happening but i did download a coconut battery for older OS

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Diese Frage beantworten Ich habe das gleiche Problem

Ist dies eine gute Frage?

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I'm thinking of a number what is it?

Same issue here I have no clue without any info.

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Throwing darts hoping to fix it that way wastes time and money!

How about first diagnosing things first, your update gave us a clue! The system is working, it’s just not able to run on battery. OK, how about running the onboard diagnostics, restart your system and press the D key. Let us know what you got for an error.

I would also  install this gem of an app! CoconutBattery take a snapshot of the apps main window and post it here for us to see Bilder zu einer vorhandenen Frage hinzufügen

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I’ve got the hardware test going now I’ll screen shot when complete, coconut app is posted above

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Just posted results of hardware test

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Well, the bad news is you've got two problems! The battery is defective! You'll need to exchange it for a replacement. The micro controller within it is not communicating to SMC.

You also appear to have a bad fan the (MOT error) make sure the fan blades and heat sink fin area are clean of dust buildup.

You'll want this tool to dig deeper TG Pro post a snapshot showing all of the sensors (you may need to slide the window down to get the lower ones)

von

Is it possible the people at the repair shop didn’t bother plugging it back in? It’s two years old. Also where do you recommend I buy a new one? The guy at the shop said they tried a new one and same problem.

Thanks for all your help, very much appreciated.

Also I was told I can’t go above Mavericks with this model, do I need to upgrade to an SSD?

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@chopperhal - Here's your systems specs: 13" MacBook Pro 2.4GHz Core i5 (Late 2011)

As we can see your system can support macOS High Sierra (10.13.6) so I don't know why they told you that Mavericks was as hight as you could go.

If you want you can replace your 2.5" HDD with a 2.5" SSD I would go with a Samsung 870 EVO SSD. You will want to replace the HD SATA cable as your system has a SATA II cable and the SSD will require a SATA III cable MacBook Pro 13" Unibody (Mid 2012) Hard Drive Cable make sure you don't damage it in the process of installing it.

And here's a good battery MacBook Pro 13" Unibody (Mid 2009-Mid 2012) Battery

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@chopperhal - Lets start this from the beginning again as too much time and your changes make it hard to diagnose things.

Forget everything we've done to this point. So here we go!

1 - What is the color of the MagSafe cord LED? Amber, Green or not lit

2 - If you can run the system lets get a fresh copy of CoconutBattery Post it as a new answer as I don't want to get it confused with the older stuff

3 - Is this a new battery or the original battery?

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Hello Dan, I had to wait for a part to arrive before I posted this.

Apparently one of the most common overlooked parts to get damaged during a spill is the battery light indicator. This will pull the whole data line down if damaged. A simple check after installing a new battery is to unscrew the back of the laptop, disconnect the battery indicator tab from the logic board, put it back together and see if the computer sees the battery. This was the problem for me all along, pretty sure I didn’t need to buy a new logic board, it is an upgrade to an i7 so I’m not too upset, however the overall fix could’ve been done with a $10 part from e bay ( I looked you guys don’t sell them).

All the I fix it guides on taking apart the computer have been instrumental in helping make this super computer.

i7 core

16gig

Solid state drive

Lightening fast.

Thanks again

von

Thunk! "damaged during a spill" Well if we only knew I would have suggested it at the beginning. This is where the completeness of the question becomes important. One loose thread can unravel on us going down the wrong pathway.

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Ben hallett wird auf ewig dankbar sein.
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