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The McCulloch MC1275 is a heavy-duty canister steam cleaner that uses ordinary water heated to over 200 degrees Fahrenheit to clean and sanitize a wide variety of surfaces.

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My machine starts to warm up then it shuts off? It is tripping the GFI

My machine is starting to warm up and then before it is ready to start steaming it trips the GFI. I have only used the machine twice. It worked fine the first two times.

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Now, I can't get it to turn on at all and it is cooled down. The GFI keeps tripping and the first outlet I used is not working at all(that will need to be repaired).

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Ok this unit will draw about 13amps (if your supply voltage is 120v) so it's worth checking your outlet can supply that amount of current in the first instance, it sounds like your first outlet couldn't and you now have a break in that circuit and the heat from the current draw has melted the supply cable, if the unit has lights and is plugged into an outlet which can handle the power draw and the lights don't illuminate then check the fuse. If you replace the fuse and it blows again or the unit simply won't heat then the element is busted

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If OP is in the USA, unless living in a very old house with original wiring the circuit should be able to handle 13A easily. GFCI outlets are 15A, unless you've got the beefier 20A ones, which most people don't. With modern wiring most circuits with outlets in them are wired using wire that derated still is listed at handling ~20A, so I doubt the supply cable melted. Barring a malfunction, the breaker would have tripped. Now, if it IS drawing too much power, that can certainly kill the GFCI outlet. To the OP, find an outlet that looks just like a normal outlet, only one side of the plug has a little - slot attached to it. Like a sideways T. If you have one, that outlet is rated at 20A. Really need to test amperage of the unit to see what is going on. But, follow @thedarkweeally's instructions for the fuse and such. It sounds like he's headed in the right direction. If you've killed an outlet and aren't working on a second, there's an internal failure.

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@brandon_k Amy stated the GFI keeps tripping and that the original outlet she used no longer has power, she alludes to the fact she’s used more than one outlet but that only one is now dead.

So I’d sure love to hear your explanation on why Amy has an outlet which is no longer supplying power since you believe that in the scenario she’s described, a break in the wiring is unlikely – maybe the electricity just went for a nap huh?

Amy already alluded to the fact she can reset a breaker, and stated that the outlet is dead, so we have to assume she’s confirmed that.

The only other explanation for the dead outlet would be a main breaker trip at a consumer unit (fusebox) but then if that were true then more than one outlet would be dead right?

For me Amy has two issues, the first is that the appliance element has broken down and shorted or the thermostat is open.

The second is a break in the outlet circuit caused by heat due to high current.

Go you with the "internal failure" *facepalm*

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@brandon_k There are many reasons why the outlet couldn’t handle the current of this appliance.

It could be because someone has taken a spur from another outlet and used the wrong grade of cable or the cable itself is just 30 year old and can no longer handle the current it was originally designated for because that outlet has been used again and again for high power appliances, which over time, degrade the circuit.

Outlets may well be rated at 15 or 20 amp but that doesn’t mean that the cable supplying it is. The cable SHOULD BE a few amperes higher rated than the breaker protection, but there’s no guarantee that’s the case. Even if it was originally, the age and condition and previous use of the cable will affect that rating – even clamping the cable to a wooden stud or letting it hang free in the air will effects it current carrying capacity with those deviations downwards, increasing with age.

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@brandon_k And a 15amp rating IS NOT certification to say “it should be able to handle 13A easily” – the fact you seem unaware of that is concerning. An appliance drawing 13amp continually will degrade that circuit (and outlet) over time, and due to the heat, that circuit and/or outlet will fail even though it’s working within parameters and it’s more common than you’d think and it happens in “low power” circuits too.

Two years ago I had a friend who had an approved electrician install 4 spotlights outside the sliding doors of her walk-in wardrobe. Now given the age of the wiring installation in her home (place hadn’t been re-wired since the 80s) he should have spurred those lights off the ring main with a FCU to control the switching of the new spots or installed a new complete radial, but instead he decided to add them to the existing upstairs radial for the lighting circuit, so he cut-in and extended.

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@brandon_k That circuit was protected by a 5amp breaker. The cable supplying that circuit is rated at 7.5 amp. The draw of all the bulbs on that circuit was 4.5 amps, the length was also well within reg. Now according to the math, the protection was fine and the supply cable was well within rating – however as I said, the electrician didn’t account for 40-plus years of degradation to the insulation and the conductors.

The upstairs lighting circuit failed after 6 months and on inspection I found that the conductors had melted in the loft about a meter before the electrician’s break in and right next to the bag of Christmas decorations – extremely lucky there wasn’t a fire - but they’d also melted at the supply to the switch for the upstairs bathroom which was 6 meters away from the break in.

Now that was all within regs and limits and yet still two breaks due to heat. So again if you have another idea why Amy has a dead socket then I’d love to hear it.

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amylangleymitchell wird auf ewig dankbar sein.
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