Meine Vermutung ist, dass die Verriegelung der Karte im Slot sich gelöst hat (die Karte wird auch nicht von der Logo erkannt), und die Karte jetzt in die Seite vom Schacht gedrückt wird und sich deswegen verhakt hat.

Hat jemand eine Idee wie ich das Ding wieder rausbekommen könnte?

⟐ Answer accepted November 24, 2023 at 7:16 GMT-7

https://www.ebay.de/itm/120W-Universal-H...

Bei der ersten Benutzung gab es wohl einen Kurzschluss und das Ding hat das Rauchen angefangen. Seitdem ist es defekt.

Das Innere des Geräts mit der verkohlten Stelle:

Das angeschwärzte Teil sieht für mich aus wie ein Widerstand. Leider konnte ich die Farbcodierung nicht zweifelsfrei zuordnen.

Gibt es so etwas wie Schmelzwiderstände als Sicherheitsbauteile? Ich kenne das sonst aus dem Stromkasten und Auto, das sehen die aber anders aus…

⟐ Answer deleted März 11, 2020 at 10:55 GMT-7

⟐ Commented Februar 17, 2024 at 18:00 GMT-7

⟐ Commented März 05, 2022 at 10:13 GMT-7

Now, a few years later, the battery dies after just 10–20 minutes. Unfortunately, the company does not offer a battery replacement service for the built-in rechargeable battery.

Has anyone successfully replaced the battery in an Ember mug? How did you do it? Where did you get a replacement from?

⟐ Commented November 11, 2025 at 12:59 GMT-7

⟐ Commented März 23, 2026 at 19:07 GMT-7

⟐ Answered Januar 22, 2021 at 18:37 GMT-7

⟐ Answered November 08, 2024 at 23:27 GMT-7

BTW, I have two of em shot. The company is classic mute on the subject.

⟐ Answered Dezember 04, 2025 at 10:42 GMT-7

⟐ Answered Juli 03, 2025 at 9:32 GMT-7

⟐ Commented Januar 30, 2025 at 11:20 GMT-7

⟐ Commented Januar 08, 2023 at 10:32 GMT-7

⟐ Answer accepted März 04, 2016 at 15:01 GMT-7

For approximately a minute the tape played properly but then the tape stopped playing. When I opened the tape door, a lot of tape had come out of the cassette. On studying what was causing it, I realized only the supply spindle is turning which just keeps pushing the tape out of the cassette and it is not being taken up by the other reel.

Would that be caused by a stretched drive belt under the motherboard? Thanks if you can help.

⟐ Commented August 24, 2021 at 6:33 GMT-7

The gypsy machine is made by Provo Craft and used for arts and crafts. I have one that I am trying to fix because the power light comes on, but the screen stays black. The company no longer makes or repairs this product. I took the device apart and see that a wire is broken that is part of the orange component that connects the screen to the mother board. I have uploaded images of the motherboard and the picture with the arrow shows where the wire is broken.

I do not know how to replace or remove this part or any other part. Please take a look and see if there is anything else that looks broken, I am very new at this. I really want to repair this because I have a lot of cartridges linked to this machine and they can’t be linked to another machine

Thanks so much!!!

i tried calling computer repair stores locally and contacted provocraft. No help thus far.

I cant find an item number for this device.

⟐ Answered Juli 24, 2025 at 9:39 GMT-7

⟐ Commented Januar 31, 2025 at 7:53 GMT-7

I was given a Philips PhotoFrame

Model No.:8FF2FPW/37

When I plug the digital photoframe into the outlet and push the power button it does not turn on, the screen remains black.

⟐ Commented Mai 02, 2020 at 20:44 GMT-7

Does can anyone help me? I need to know which pins to provide power and which pins to connect to the line. And also which power specification to provide to it.

Thank you very much

⟐ Answered Mai 29, 2017 at 23:44 GMT-7

TOP

BACK, also rotated 180 deg so "Photo Bottom" of the circuit board is the same on each photo.

So looks like some water/snow/ice got in and fried the circuit board. The location is indicated on the TOP image by the screwdriver. It look like the Capacitor traces jumped across to the next and caused a short. Well, those traces are now completely dead. Also, the Capacitors I believe to be fried, because the whole unit won't function. The other trace that is fried, runs to a test port on the right side, and otherwise through a series of Resistors and Transistors, they all seem fine; also visually nothing else looks "shiny" or singed.

So I think it is just the Capacitors that I need to replace. Since they are surface mounted, I am looking for alternative ways to achieve this.

• TOP photo you can see 3 THRU holes in the board, I figure I could solder the Cathode through these. (on the BACK photo, these are a little "Upwards" from the screwdriver)
• However, looking for the Anode connection point, and the current traces don't run very far. Would it be advisable to drill through where the screwdriver is on TOP photo, and remove (scratch/sand away) any of the trace on the BACK of the unit?

This got cut by a razor blade (maybe by me, maybe not), and wondering what a good way to go about reattaching the leads in the most permanent way. It's a surface button, under a sticker and you can see the housing. Ideally I'd like to retain the Ribbon style, as if the button part of the label cracks open (due to over use) it will prevent water from entering the unit. (These units are used outside).

• I was thinking just use some sandpaper to expose the leads on each part, then carefully lay some super glue on the non-contact parts and press together. Then case in Clear Nail polish.

EDIT: Re-uploaded images for full clarity

⟐ Commented Februar 28, 2025 at 11:33 GMT-7

⟐ Comment deleted Oktober 16, 2021 at 11:21 GMT-7