Just clarifying whether you reinserted each fuse before removing the next one when testing for the current or you left each one of them out until the current dropped to zero?
If you left them out then that explains the current drop to zero.
If you reinserted each one, every time before removing the next fuse, then it is unusual that the current dropped to zero with only the backup fuse removed. Normally there's 50-80mA being drawn from the battery when a car's not in use. This current is for the clock, immobilizer, keyless entry functions etc
Here's an image from the 2006 Honda Odyssey service manual, showing the backup light circuit that may help.
Also here's a [link|https://fuse-box.info/honda/honda-odyssey-rl3-rl4-2005-2010-fuses|link] showing the location of the backup relay (#15) in the ''engine compartment primary fuse box'' for a 2005 model.
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If the ignition switch is in the off position, there shouldn't be any current flow through the fuse to the relay and backup lights. It should only be there with the switch in the Start and On position
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If the ignition switch is in the off position, there shouldn't be any current flow through the fuse to the relay and backup lights. It should only be there with the switch in the Start and On position and the transmission range switch set for reverse gear
Perhaps check the ignition switch.
Do the backup lights work when required and if so, are they dimmer than normal?
Just clarifying whether you reinserted each fuse before removing the next one when testing for the current or you left each one of them out until the current dropped to zero?
If you left them out then that explains the current drop to zero.
-
If you reinserted each one, every time before removing the next fuse, then it is unusual that the current dropped to zero. Normally there's 50-80mA being drawn from the battery when a car's not in use. This current is for the clock, immobilizer, keyless entry functions etc
+
If you reinserted each one, every time before removing the next fuse, then it is unusual that the current dropped to zero with only the backup fuse removed. Normally there's 50-80mA being drawn from the battery when a car's not in use. This current is for the clock, immobilizer, keyless entry functions etc
Here's an image from the 2006 Honda Odyssey service manual, showing the backup light circuit that may help.
Also here's a [link|https://fuse-box.info/honda/honda-odyssey-rl3-rl4-2005-2010-fuses|link] showing the location of the backup relay (#15) in the ''engine compartment primary fuse box'' for a 2005 model.
If the ignition switch is in the off position, there shouldn't be any current flow through the fuse to the relay and backup lights. It should only be there with the switch in the Start and On position
Perhaps check the ignition switch.
Do the backup lights work when required and if so, are they dimmer than normal?
Just clarifying whether you reinserted each fuse before removing the next one when testing for the current or you left each one of them out until the current dropped to zero?
If you left them out then that explains the current drop to zero.
If you reinserted each one, every time before removing the next fuse, then it is unusual that the current dropped to zero. Normally there's 50-80mA being drawn from the battery when a car's not in use. This current is for the clock, immobilizer, keyless entry functions etc
Here's an image from the 2006 Honda Odyssey service manual, showing the backup light circuit that may help.
Also here's a [link|https://fuse-box.info/honda/honda-odyssey-rl3-rl4-2005-2010-fuses|link] showing the location of the backup relay (#15) in the ''engine compartment primary fuse box'' for a 2005 model.
If the ignition switch is in the off position, there shouldn't be any current flow through the fuse to the relay and backup lights. It should only be there with the switch in the Start and On position
Perhaps check the ignition switch.
-
Do the backup lights work when required and are they dimmer than normal?
+
Do the backup lights work when required and if so, are they dimmer than normal?
Just clarifying whether you reinserted each fuse before removing the next one when testing for the current or you left each one of them out until the current dropped to zero?
If you left them out then that explains the current drop to zero.
-
If you reinserted each one, every time before removing the next fuse, then it is unusual that the current dropped to zero. Normally there's 50-80mA being drawn from the battery when the car's not in use. This current is for the clock, immobilizer, keyless entry functions etc
+
If you reinserted each one, every time before removing the next fuse, then it is unusual that the current dropped to zero. Normally there's 50-80mA being drawn from the battery when a car's not in use. This current is for the clock, immobilizer, keyless entry functions etc
Here's an image from the 2006 Honda Odyssey service manual, showing the backup light circuit that may help.
Also here's a [link|https://fuse-box.info/honda/honda-odyssey-rl3-rl4-2005-2010-fuses|link] showing the location of the backup relay (#15) in the ''engine compartment primary fuse box'' for a 2005 model.
If the ignition switch is in the off position, there shouldn't be any current flow through the fuse to the relay and backup lights. It should only be there with the switch in the Start and On position
Perhaps check the ignition switch.
Do the backup lights work when required and are they dimmer than normal?
Just clarifying whether you reinserted each fuse before removing the next one when testing for the current or you left each one of them out until the current dropped to zero?
+
+
If you left them out then that explains the current drop to zero.
+
+
If you reinserted each one, every time before removing the next fuse, then it is unusual that the current dropped to zero. Normally there's 50-80mA being drawn from the battery when the car's not in use. This current is for the clock, immobilizer, keyless entry functions etc
Here's an image from the 2006 Honda Odyssey service manual, showing the backup light circuit that may help.
Also here's a [link|https://fuse-box.info/honda/honda-odyssey-rl3-rl4-2005-2010-fuses|link] showing the location of the backup relay (#15) in the ''engine compartment primary fuse box'' for a 2005 model.
If the ignition switch is in the off position, there shouldn't be any current flow through the fuse to the relay and backup lights. It should only be there with the switch in the Start and On position
Perhaps check the ignition switch.
+
Do the backup lights work when required and are they dimmer than normal?
Here's an image from the 2006 Honda Odyssey service manual, showing the backup light circuit that may help.
-
Also here's a [https://fuse-box.info/honda/honda-odyssey-rl3-rl4-2005-2010-fuses|link] showing the location of the backup relay (#15) in the ''engine compartment primary fuse box'' for a 2005 model.
+
Also here's a [link|https://fuse-box.info/honda/honda-odyssey-rl3-rl4-2005-2010-fuses|link] showing the location of the backup relay (#15) in the ''engine compartment primary fuse box'' for a 2005 model.
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If the backup lights aren't lit (relay not operated or sticking contacts?) when they shouldn't be, i.e. ignition switch in the off position, there shouldn't be any current flow through the fuse to the relay and backup lights. It should only be there with the switch in the Start and On position
+
If the ignition switch is in the off position, there shouldn't be any current flow through the fuse to the relay and backup lights. It should only be there with the switch in the Start and On position
Hi @jakski
Here's an image from the 2006 Honda Odyssey service manual, showing the backup light circuit that may help.
Also here's a [https://fuse-box.info/honda/honda-odyssey-rl3-rl4-2005-2010-fuses|link] showing the location of the backup relay (#15) in the ''engine compartment primary fuse box'' for a 2005 model.
If the backup lights aren't lit (relay not operated or sticking contacts?) when they shouldn't be, i.e. ignition switch in the off position, there shouldn't be any current flow through the fuse to the relay and backup lights. It should only be there with the switch in the Start and On position
Perhaps check the ignition switch.
[image|3188571]
(click on image)