Verwende diese Anleitung, um die Komponenten des Rückgehäuses deines iPhone 5 zu entfernen.

Video Übersicht

Image 1/3: Lege sich überlagernde Streifen von durchsichtigem Paketband über das iPhone Display, bis die gesamte Frontseite bedeckt ist. Image 2/3: Dies hält Glasscherben zusammen und erzeugt eine glattere Oberfläche für mehr Haftung. So lässt sich das Display besser vom Rückgehäuse lösen. Image 3/3: Trage eine Schutzbrille, um deine Augen vor Splittern, die sich während des Reparaturvorgangs lösen können, zu schützen.
  • Falls dein Displayglas gesprungen ist, halte die Bruchstelle zusammen und vermeide Verletzungen, indem du das Glas mit Tape versiehst.

  • Lege sich überlagernde Streifen von durchsichtigem Paketband über das iPhone Display, bis die gesamte Frontseite bedeckt ist.

    • Dies hält Glasscherben zusammen und erzeugt eine glattere Oberfläche für mehr Haftung. So lässt sich das Display besser vom Rückgehäuse lösen.

  • Trage eine Schutzbrille, um deine Augen vor Splittern, die sich während des Reparaturvorgangs lösen können, zu schützen.

Having completed this repair using the rear camera part from Ifixit I have to comment that the camera is noticeably lower quality. Its not huge - You don't notice it looking at the photos scaled down to fit but viewing one for one there is significant detail lost. My staff member has an Iphone 5 bough at exactly the same time as mine so I was able to take a photo side by side on his and mine after my repair and when you view 1 for 1 pixel in product boxes on mine the text was just a colored blur where on his although you couldn't read the text it was more obviously text. Overall though its still better than having a camera that wouldn't focus at all and being that Apple seem to refuse to supply genuine spare parts (Which there has to be a low against??? - Imagine if a car manufacturer did that) its still good buying one from someone who gives good support. At the end of the day its a phone camera not an SLR and its still better than the older Iphone 4 camera.

matt - Antwort

The majority of product manufacturers are not required to provide parts, and apple will fix items under the various warranties it offers. Car manufacturers on the other hand are required to make parts available by law. It is part of the regulation of their industry. They get a lot of protection for their business model, but have some obligations too. It's why the EV1 was pulled, they didn't want to have to make the parts, and why there are so many Delorian parts.

William Leeper -

This is a great guide. However, I'm having a hard time popping the screen back into place. Everything works but I'm afraid of putting too much pressure least I crack it again. Any advice?

amciotola - Antwort

To avoid broken screens during reassembling:

Put the hooks of the screen in the right place in the housing, then close it loose, don't press it. Turn your phone upside down with the screen on a very flat surface (e.g. table). Now press the housing on the screen -> no more risk for braking the screen because of inhomogeneous force applied on the glass!

mondbewohner -

I hope folks read this comment before proceeding to attempt a Sleep/Wake button repair on the iPhone 5! Apple has an iPhone 5 Sleep/Wake button replacement program, free, for iPhone 5 devices manufactured through March 2013. See program details at https://www.apple.com/support/iphone5-sl.... Don't do this yourself if you don't need to. It's a difficult repair.

Mark Luscher - Antwort

I was willing to add the following important remark on top of this guide but, strangely, it has been refused! Here it is:


*Check if your Iphone 5 is eligible to the Apple special program for a free battery replacement (devices sold between September 2012 and January 2013, within a limited serial number range).

* If not, watch the video and use this guide [video|https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6ogE8USs...]


And thus, as my Iphone 5 was eligible, I went to the Apple store of Le Louvre in Paris and the battery has been changed for free instead of 65 euros. Thanks to Mark!

revher -

Hi every one i drop my iphone5s 16gb

I replace 10!new screen but cant back to live i see on the "logic board" where u conect the screen i se damage HOW CANT FIX THAT WHITOUT LOST MA DATA ??? Thaks for anny hellp!!!!!

aliroberto01 - Antwort

Image 1/1: Schalte dein iPhone aus, bevor du mit der Demontage beginnst.
  • Entleere deinen Akku auf unter 25% Ladung, bevor du weitermachst. Das minimiert das Risiko eines gefährlichen Thermischen Durchgehens (Selbstentzündung) für den Fall, dass du den Akku beschädigst.

  • Schalte dein iPhone aus, bevor du mit der Demontage beginnst.

  • Entferne die zwei 3,6 mm Pentalobe Schrauben neben dem Lightning Connector.

I would recommend keeping multiple pieces of double-sided tape for each step that requires removing screws. Also perhaps label them, or take notes, so you know which piece of tape (and the screws attached to it) go with which step number. It's easy to confuse screws, especially if you go past these instructions to remove everything required to replace the ribbon cable that is necessary for the buttons.

irwin fletcher - Antwort

To avoid misplacing screws or other elements, printout the instructions, apply transparent tape onto the print wherever you have colored circles marking different screws. Then, as you start removing screws, tape each one on top of its image on the instructions. At the end, to reinstall everything, proceed from the end of the instructions, removing each taped screw from its image, to return it to its original position. I have done this with many iFixit repair instructions, never losing or misplacing any screw!

bduault -

Ordered and received the Phillips #00 Screwdriver ($5.95 · 50+ In stock). It is a tiny Philips screwdriver. The screws next to the lightning port have tiny star-shaped holes. I will have to find a different screwdriver.

jacklingwood - Antwort

Unfortunately, the kit I ordered that was to come with a suction cup didn't include one; thanks for quality control, ifixit. Tape doesn't work. Now what?

btarver - Antwort

I'm sorry to hear that. I have a suction cup being sent out today (Tue 3/11/14) and it will be there tomorrow for you.

Scott Dingle -

I've managed to replace the battery successfully in my iPhone5, but something went wrong with a friend's (battery status is stuck, sometimes the phone reboots for no reason).

So, i decided to open it up again and reseat the ribbon cables in case they came loose.

I can't open it now. The Pentalobe screwdriver is worn out! I can't open these screws no matter what. I don't know what to do now as I can't be sure I haven't worn out the actual screws themselves, too. Any ideas?

Saltank - Antwort

I seem to be having a similar situation. Attempting to open the phone again and either the pentalobe screws or the screwdriver itself is stripped. Any suggestion is welcome for removing the screws.

Battery replacement went well and works great. But I must have a loose (hopefully not damaged) display ribbon.

pwarkolla -

Saltank, thanks to your comment I didn't overtighten those little screws! I would try to get a better quality driver from a local hardware store to see that helps, the one ifixit sent are not very good quality. If that doesn't work, you may have stripped the screws.


Wish I ordered a back case as well with my repair being so easy!

Daniel Hatton - Antwort

my phones screen displays the dead battery sign and the plug below it sign too, when your phones battery is dead. Bought a new battery and charged overnight...... any ideas?

Steve Freed - Antwort

Hi Steve! I'm experiencing the same issue. Were you able to fix it? Please let me know

Brittany Hutchinson -

Steve. Please contact me asap re: the issue on your phone. Thank you.

Brittany Hutchinson -

Now here's an issue that would seem to apply to many users doing this repair: if the screen is nonfunctional, how do you power-off the device? When I dropped my iPhone, the screen went almost completely dark, midnight blue, actually. I can use the power button at the top of the phone to turn the display on and off, but I can't get the phone to power off. Seems the only way to do it is to wait until the battery is exhausted.

dwhyink - Antwort

Protip: take all the soda out of a case of pop and complete the repair in the empty cardboard tray. That way if you drop a screw it won't go flying off the table.

John Penfold - Antwort

Image 1/3: Unabhängig vom verwendeten Werkzeug musst du darauf achten das ganze Display auf einmal abzuheben. Image 2/3: Wenn sich der Bildschirm vom Rahmen löst, wie es im ersten Bild zu erkennen ist, schiebe ein Plastik Opening Tool zwischen den Plastikrahmen und den unteren Teil des Gehäuses, um die Metallklammern zu lösen. Image 3/3: Wenn der Rahmen sich bei deinem Display abgelöst hat könnte es hilfreich sein, diesen vor dem Zusammenbau mit einem dünnen Streifen doppelseitigem Klebeband zu befestigen.
  • In den folgenden Schritten hebst du das Display vom restlichen Teil des Gehäuses ab. Das Display setzt sich zusammen aus dem Bildschirm und einem Plastikrahmen mit Metallklammern.

  • Unabhängig vom verwendeten Werkzeug musst du darauf achten das ganze Display auf einmal abzuheben.

  • Wenn sich der Bildschirm vom Rahmen löst, wie es im ersten Bild zu erkennen ist, schiebe ein Plastik Opening Tool zwischen den Plastikrahmen und den unteren Teil des Gehäuses, um die Metallklammern zu lösen.

  • Wenn der Rahmen sich bei deinem Display abgelöst hat könnte es hilfreich sein, diesen vor dem Zusammenbau mit einem dünnen Streifen doppelseitigem Klebeband zu befestigen.

Kommentar hinzufügen

  • Die nächsten zwei Schritte zeigen, wie man den iSclack, verwendet. Ein großartiges Werkzeug, um das iPhone 5 sicher zu öffnen, das wir für jeden empfehlen, der mehr als eine Reparatur durchführen will. Wenn du den iSclack nicht verwendest, gehe weiter zu Schritt 6.

  • Schließe den Handgriff des iSclacks, wodurch sich die Saugnäpfehalter öffnen.

  • Platziere das Unterteil deines iPhone zwischen den Saugnäpfen gegen den Tiefenbegrenzer aus Kunststoff.

    • Der obere Saugnapf sollte sich gerade über dem Home Button befinden.

  • Öffne den Handgriff, um die Halter des iSclacks zu schließen. Platziere die Saugnäpfe mittig und drücke sie fest gegen die Ober- und Unterseite des iPhones.

The iSclack is a marvel. I've had it in my toolkit for a while but this was its first use. I recommend this tool.

jlwilliams03 - Antwort

Image 1/2: Der iSclack öffnet dein iPhone gerade soweit, dass die Teile voneinander getrennt werden, aber nicht weit genug, um die Kabel zu beschädigen. Image 2/2: Löse die beiden Saugnäpfe von deinem iPhone.
  • Umfasse dein iPhone mit festem Griff und schließe den Handgriff deines iSclacks, um die Saugnäpfe voneinander zu trennen und dadurch die Display Einheit vom hinteren Gehäuse zu lösen.

  • Der iSclack öffnet dein iPhone gerade soweit, dass die Teile voneinander getrennt werden, aber nicht weit genug, um die Kabel zu beschädigen.

  • Löse die beiden Saugnäpfe von deinem iPhone.

  • Überspringe die nächsten drei Schritte und fahre mit Schritt 9 fort.

Step 4 is a bit dangerous, as the Display is pulled out very fast and (depending on the position, the suction cups are placed at) it could stress the cabels connecting display and mainboard. So, please, hold the phone with finger and thumb at the top, to avoid the display is pulled out to fast.

Guido Dampf - Antwort

I sure wish they did a better job showing in the video how hard it is to take of the front screen without the iSclack tool!


I had to position the suction cup _over_ the home button in order to get the screen far enough away from the frame to slide my trim tool in there. Putting it down above the home button just wasn't working at all...

tparkinson - Antwort

Was someone able to answer this question? I have the same issue

Brittany Hutchinson - Antwort

without this suction cup clamp thing, removing (and replacing) the screen was the hardest part of this job. Especially when the screen is cracked badly as the suction cup loses suction due to air leaking through the cracks. In this case, use tape over the screen to create a smooth surface. ***Also, the screens have rubber running along the side, so use a heat gun or hair dryer to make the rubber softer for removal of cracked screen and installation of replacement screen

fakik0240 - Antwort

Image 1/1: Vergewissere dich, dass der Saugnapf vollständig auf dem Bildschirm aufliegt, um einen dichten Abschluss zu haben.
  • Presse einen Saugnapf auf den Bildschirm, direkt über dem Home Button.

  • Vergewissere dich, dass der Saugnapf vollständig auf dem Bildschirm aufliegt, um einen dichten Abschluss zu haben.

  • Wenn du ein iPhone mit einem gesprungenen Glas öffnet, lege sauber einige Streifen Tape über die Vorderseite und drücke so viele Luftblasen wie möglich heraus. Dies schafft für den Saugnapf eine greifbare Oberfläche und minimiert die Verbreitung von gesprungenem Glas.

I found it was easier to start opening from the top left of the display and working straight down towards the home button as there are no clips in this particular area. I realize there are cables on the right side right next to the area, however, this way requires less force as a starting point. Let me know what you think.

boxerbc - Antwort

I think that's not a good idea as the top of the display is held in place with plastic tabs.

If you apply to much force they can break.

Johnny - Antwort

This part was the most frustrating part of the guide, granted I didn't do the whole thing. I was expecting to slip the plastic separator tool in-between the case and the display. This did not happen and I ate away at the tool in the process. For me after much pushing on the top edge of the case and pulling the screen away it released all of a sudden. I managed to make a dead stop at 90 degrees, but felt like I almost ripped off the ribbon cables(I didn't).

maxturkewitz - Antwort

No matter how hard I tried, I could not get the screen to separate far enough to where the pry tool could get it. Reading through some of the other comments, I followed 2 other people's advice to work the bottom left corner above the headphone input and then use a pushpin at the same time. (this is not recommended, but it worked!) I made a couple of hard to see marks in the corner but was finally able to get the screen off. I also did NOT take off the connectors to the screen and skipped the next few steps all the way down to step 14. Looks like a lot of people damaged their phones that disconnected the top screen.


I'd recommend to use packaging tape to attach the upper edge of the display to the back of the phone so you won't rip off the ribbon cables if the display suddenly comes loose.

Cupper Chopper - Antwort

I took the suction cup off of an old navigation Tom Tom and it worked great!

fijisomeday - Antwort

My battery needed replacement because the battery had swollen and was warping the glass. Looking at it from the side it looks like gasket that was partly sticking to glass and partly to the case. This is actually part of the glass frame and you need to make sure to separate it from the case not the glass. I did it wrong and ended up removing the glass but there was a metal case covering the inside. I eventually got the rest of the top off but now I'll have replace it all because I can't find a good way to glue the glass to plastic.

Wade Whitaker - Antwort

I initially had trouble, but focusing on the area of the faceplate right above the headphone jack worked for me. There's a slight divot that allows you to slip in the prying tool earlier than in other places around the faceplate. Once I got the prying tool in there, I was able to pop out the bottom, and then continue up the sides.

Stuart Nelson - Antwort

IMPORTANT TO NOTE: The top of the screen is attached to delicate cables inside the phone! Pull up carefully and keep a hand on the top of the screen so it doesn't pop up.

gobluethunder - Antwort

Image 1/1: Während du das iPhone mit einer Hand unten hältst, ziehe an dem Saugnapf, um die Display Einheit etwas von dem hinteren Gehäuse zu entfernen.
  • Vergewissere dich, dass der Saugnapf fest auf der Display Einheit aufsitzt.

  • Während du das iPhone mit einer Hand unten hältst, ziehe an dem Saugnapf, um die Display Einheit etwas von dem hinteren Gehäuse zu entfernen.

  • Nimm dir Zeit und übe einen konstant kräftigen Zug aus. Die Display Einheit ist um einiges fester eingepasst, als bei den meisten Geräten.

  • Heble mithilfe eines Plastik Opening Tools die Kanten des hinteren Gehäuses vorsichtig nach unten, weg von der Display Einheit, während du mit dem Saugnapf nach oben ziehst.

  • Die Display Einheit ist mit einiges Clips am hinteren Gehäuse angebracht, deshalb wirst du möglicherweise sowohl Saugnapf als auch Plastik Opening Tool gebrauchen müssen, um die Display Einheit zu lösen.

The suction cup didn't work, because of my destroyed front glass.

So i take "tesa powers trips".

With that help, i had enough force to pull up the front display from the rear case.

ulrichstumm - Antwort

Suction cup didn't work for me. I tried for half hour with my nerd biceps. In the end, I inserted an xacto blade below the home button to create a gap big enough for me to put in a guitar pick and finally able to pry it open. In the process I scratched the frame so you have to be very careful if you decide to take this approach.

Meng - Antwort

Where can you buy "Tesa Powerstrips?

latraelmayo - Antwort

The glass on my phone was completely destroyed, making the suction cup entirely useless. I was pretty close to giving up when i tried putting a strip of clear packing tape on the screen and squishing out all the bubbles. Put the suction cup on this and it worked perfectly.

chriscopass - Antwort

Thank you. I broke the front glass with this technique..

Olivier S - Antwort

Used a suction cup from my Garmin Navi. The one you use to stick it to your windshield. It has a nice plastic "handle" and made things a lot easier... almost too easy that I nearly pulled the screen off the cables. Go easy on this step.

michaelychien - Antwort

I'd Advise Against The Suction Cup Here As It Will Separate The Glass From The Black/White Framing That You're Actually Supposed To Pry Under. I Found When Using The Suction Cup, The Glass Came Up, But The Framing Stayed Stuck. If You're Replacing The Entire Display It's Not As Much Of A Problem, But If You're Installing Any Other Part Or A Custom Housing, You'll Notice Your Screen Has A Bit Of "Play" When Pressing Down.

Mitch - Antwort

While holding down on the lower sides of the iPhone, I found inserting the plastic separator just to the right of the audio jack while gently applying pressure down and back from the edge popped the bottom of the display assembly up. Keep in mind to do this while pulling back on the suction cup ring, like the guide says constant, but gentle force at the same time. Another note is to have the suction cup ring vertical to align with the length of the display, that made the process much easier.

Canis Lupis - Antwort

You rock! I was having trouble getting the thing to budge, but the moment I put the plastic tool near the audio jack, the screen immediately popped up.

Justin -

This should be in the guide. The front panel is actually recessed a bit here making it much easier to get a tool in at this point. No way I would have opened it without this tip. Thanks!

dave -

Thank you so much! This should DEFINITELY be added to the main guide.

After struggling for half an hour and nearly giving up, I was able to easily lift up the screen once I tried to wedge it near the headphone jack!

Thanks so much!

diegoholt -

I've been using a metal flat opening tool along with the suction cup to pop these bad boys open - remember the tape on the screen trick if you have a smashed screen - so the suction cup can grip and stops the glass going everywhere!

Ben Watkins - Antwort

Definitely a difficult step. Make sure not to pry the screen from framing. Also, I kept pushing the power button on while attempting separate the frame. Keep your fingers clear from the top of the phone because having it turn on while the casing is popped is a little nerve racking!

Andrew - Antwort

I had trouble with this step too, since I had to apply quite a lot of force on the suction cup when pulling up on the screen while holding down on the frame with my fingernails. Eventually it popped free, but came almost to 90 degrees before I was able to stop it. No damage, but nerve-wracking, and if there was a better technique, it would be good to figure it out and share the information here.

Adam Engst - Antwort

Be very gentle! I overdid it and, though the repair was successful, there's now a bit of play when pressing on the top right quadrant of the screen.

plasticpool - Antwort

When i was reassembling, the screen broke form the pressure. I recommend putting the screen towards your working surface and press your phone downwards. That way your screen is always straight.

Kenichi Haramoto - Antwort

My front panel flew right off after some puling on the suction cup - no prying was necessary.

Fortunately, no cables got damaged. Take care.

Leonid - Antwort

I can confirm, the Garmin sucker cup worked like a charm. Within 5 seconds it popped open.

Nolan - Antwort

everything worked but i got a problem i hope anybody can help me very fast !

when i lift the screen up it just lift the glass up not the whole display ....

what should i do ??

thanks in advance

edis - Antwort

Need extra careful while pulling the screen.

Once there is a gap between the screen and the frame, insert the plastic opening tools and move it around the screen. But don't use it for top area (near to power button) as there is a location for flexible ribbon cable.

Once the bottom part is free, the screen will pop out easily.

Ardi Purwalaksana - Antwort

Suction cup is very difficult with a cracked screen. Stick something in the ear jack and carefully push it and the edge of the screen will pop up. Use the plastic stick to open it.

Julie To - Antwort

I had trouble opening the screen due to a warped suction cup that was bent up at one spot and also due to my cracked screen. My solution: used double sided tape between the suction cup and the glass. I had some command strips, but I think any double-sided tape could work.

earthhasassri - Antwort

Use needle its a best way

imran - Antwort

I could never even get the case open. Waste of $30.

dpetronis - Antwort

The suction cup will hold if you put a piece of tape over the cracked screen.

prattdesign1 - Antwort


-The repair went horribly wrong during this step, for me. I pulled-up on the suction cup, gradually increasing force. Instead of just opening a gap to get the plastic prying tool into, the whole thing gave way at once. This damaged the connection between the display assembly and the rest of the iPhone.

-During this step, I would recommend placing a rubber band around the phone, over the home button and one near the top of the iPhone for good measure. Even better, invest in the "iSclack". In my case, it would have saved me about fifty bucks and three days without a functional iPhone.

-When I reassembled, The screen was blank, but I could still sync with iTunes. I may have been able to replace only the cables, but I wasn't sure how extensive the damage was and I was done messing around with it. I replaced the whole display assembly, and now it works just fine.

-This was STILL cheaper than buying a new phone, and I learned a lot. Overall, it was a good experience.

peterthemick - Antwort

my phones screen displays the dead battery sign and the plug below it sign too, when your phones battery is dead. Bought a new battery and charged overnight...... any ideas?

Was someone able to answer this question? I have the same issue

Brittany Hutchinson - Antwort

1. This is very difficult, you have to use much more strength than it appears and it's very easy to rip out the connector cords. Mine did not rip, thankfully.

2. Upon replacing the screen, I had to do this 3 times, I would not recommend putting the screws back in but turning on the phone and testing all screens before putting the panel back.

3. When I finally managed to ensure all displays were working, I was pushing the screen back in and cracked the glass just below the home button. This part is very sensitive as it is the thinnest portion of the glass so be careful and ensure you push from the top and go all the way around. I also had to do this twice because after cracking the glass on the first try, I also realised the top was not fully pushed back.

kkwang18 - Antwort

We highly recommend using the iSclack tool for opening the phone up. It simply pops it up with very little effort, and you won't risk damaging your screen or device.

Matt Gordon - Antwort

My older phone had a swollen battery, it turns out it had distorted the display assembly enough that the suction cup only separated the screen from the display assembly. Not good.

robin - Antwort

I was in no mood to pay for the special tool and wait for it. Took the "right of headphone jack" suggestion and pushed down vertically at the edge of the frame with a "ice pick" sharp tool, " I had two of them. Who cares if you scratch the frame a little, I usually have my phone in a protective case anyhow. I kept working with this until the corner was up, and then the rest of the display was loose without any further work.

primaljoy - Antwort

My phone is in pristine condition for a 5 year old phone, I have no cracks to speak of on the glass and the suction cup that ifixit sent me doesn't stick to the glass.

Mary Ellen Cammilleri - Antwort

Holding the other side (top of the phone) down with another hand is extremely important. Plenty of people have damaged their screens by pulling the panel right off, ripping all the cables.

Eugueny Kontsevoy - Antwort

Image 1/1:
  • Heble weiter an den Seiten der Display Einheit und löse die Clips entlang der linken und rechten Seite.

while opening the front panel, i lose control and it gone so fast. And now, after putting it back, the screen is not working. What am I supposed to do? I dont have any other phone in hand and I need to repair it immediately.

yakbu - Antwort

as I wanted to close the display again, the sealing ring wasn't attached to the edge of the glass anymore. did someone have the same issue? thx for help!

luc - Antwort

Image 1/3: Sobald die Clips unten und an den Seiten der Display Einheit gelöst sind, ziehe den unteren Teil der Einheit weg vom hinteren Gehäuse. Image 2/3: Hebe die Display Einheit langsam bis zu 90° vom hinteren Gehäuse an, und lehne es gegen eine Halterung, während du am Telefon arbeitest. Image 3/3: Fixiere das Display mit einem Gummiband, um es während dem Arbeiten sicher in Position zu halten und Spannung auf den Displaykabeln zu verhindern.
  • Versuche nicht, die Display Einheit vollständig vom hinteren Gehäuse zu lösen, da immer noch mehrere Flachbandkabel oben am iPhone befestigt sind.

  • Sobald die Clips unten und an den Seiten der Display Einheit gelöst sind, ziehe den unteren Teil der Einheit weg vom hinteren Gehäuse.

  • Hebe die Display Einheit langsam bis zu 90° vom hinteren Gehäuse an, und lehne es gegen eine Halterung, während du am Telefon arbeitest.

    • Fixiere das Display mit einem Gummiband, um es während dem Arbeiten sicher in Position zu halten und Spannung auf den Displaykabeln zu verhindern.

When reinserting the screen, be sure to start from the top and insert the plastic tabs on the screen into the case before advancing the rest of the screen into place, finishing at the bottom. The screen will snap into place once lined up to complete the insertion.

jeff - Antwort

This is actually very important, I was having trouble getting the front panel to go on by starting at the top. I started from the bottom instead and the bottom ended up secure, but not the top. I then tried to take the front panel back off, but because the top portion was already loose the force required to pull off the bottom led to one of the ribbon cables at the top of phone breaking.

jjensik11 -

When reattaching the screen, please start from the top. BEFORE you try to push the bottom of the screen down and snap it in, use some pressure from the bottom edge to push the screen towards the top of the phone. I suggest that by the time you get to the middle of the phone (starting from the top), you do this. It will allow for getting the clips at the bottom by the sync cable clipped in and will sit nicely and allow for you to use overall pressure to make sure the whole screen is secured. I didn't do this and I damaged the seal on the right side of the phone and almost separated my screen from the digitizer trying to reseparate it to reattach the screen. Be very carefull to follow these steps I listed. If you do this while reattaching the screen, you'll have no problem.

zhunterzz - Antwort

I also agree with it being not necessary to remove the complete front panel. I just kept it attached and kept it at an angle as I pulled with gentle, continuous force (at a 45 degree angle as suggested) on the battery pull tab. It eventually came loose, I set the new battery in and everything works perfectly.

Jen Robinson - Antwort

That's the way I did it too. I put a piece of packing tape from the screen, over the top of the phone, and onto the back. That kept me from putting any pressure on the ribbon cable should the phone slip and the whole screen try to lift away from the backing.

Ed Chapman -

Be careful taking the front panel off. I tried to pull it very careful but it ripped. One of the cables was damaged but luckily, it was the cable that goes out with the old front panel. It also ripped 4.1 mm Phillips screw from step 13 and it jumped to the floor. I was lucky and recovered it from the floor.

In the end everything was fine and phone works great. But remember to be super careful.

drummerMarkku - Antwort

BE VERY CAREFUL!! While trying to open the phone, I was must've tried a little too much and the screen came off in one shot, and it damaged the ribbon cables. Screen didn't turn on, and it cost 100$ to repair. BE VERY CAREFUL.

Marc - Antwort

Hello guys, I would like to first thank iFixit for these amazing repair guides they have always worked for me! Thank you!.

When reassembling the phone make sure to put the screen from top to bottom, but be aware there are 2 small flaps on the top left side of the screen (you can notice them using another iphone as a flashlight) if you don't put these 2 flaps first then you are going to have a little space between the top part of the screen and the aluminum frame, at least this happened to me and then I inspected the screen using a flashlight and then I found these 2 tiny flaps behind the screen near the top left corner.

I hope it helps!

Cesar Valenzuela - Antwort

Was it just me or did anyone else discover a ribbon cable (or something like it) on the bottom end of the phone (under the home button)? It kept me from opening the front panel more than 30 degrees or so, making the replacement impossible. Thoughts?

Curt Jones - Antwort

It looks like you might actually have an iPhone 5s, that is probably the Touch ID cable, check out the iPhone 5s Display Assembly replacement here!

Sam Lionheart -

Thank you, Sam!

Curt Jones -

What the heck only the top part of the lcd came off, NOT together with the shield plate. I used the stupid islack opener but only the very top layer came up. I don't see the battery or anything underneath because the shield plate is still in there. I can't even put it back closed and resuction it open because the shield plate is solidly stuck in and there is a cable at the top not settling properly. I have an open lcd top part of this phone. IDK man, PLEASE ADVISE.


Gabrielle Rivera - Antwort

Hi Gabrielle, sorry you're having trouble! This frame step was meant to show you how to avoid that issue, however, you should be able to use it to pry up the frame and shield plate. You'll need to carefully pry the frame itself up. Insert a thin prying tool between the black or white plastic display frame, and the metal phone case, to lift the frame assembly out of the phone body. If you continue to have trouble, try posting a question in our forum for faster feedback!

Sam Lionheart -

Hello, I've changed the earphone piece on my iPhone5 following this guide but I've skipped from step 9 directly to step 17 without problem, just shutting down first. Once opened I've tied the iPhone's body vertically to a small box with an elastic ring, the display assembly resting horizontal at some 90 degrees allows enough place to unscrew and replace the earpiece.

Cesar Martin - Antwort

So easy! My biggest problem is my eyesight. LOL! Had to wear glasses and use a magnifying glass. Battery took about 20 minutes. Re-installing the cover for the screen ribbons was the toughest for me. If you cant see...have someone hold the screen while you gently wrestle the screws, while holding the plate, back in.

James Bridges - Antwort

Worth adding to the main tutorial that the screen re-install must start from the top.

donaldboscoe - Antwort

I found the suction cup to be very effective in removing the front glass. Didn't take that much force to start to see the glass separate from the frame. It's a lot easier if you have a fingernail you can insert when you start to see the glass separate from the frame so that you can let go of the suction cup ring and grab a spudger to pry down one side and then the other.

Eclectica - Antwort

Image 1/1: Eine 1,8 mm Kreuzschlitz Schraube
  • Entferne die beiden folgenden Schrauben, die die Metallabdeckung über dem Akkuanschluss auf dem Logic Board befestigen:

    • Eine 1,8 mm Kreuzschlitz Schraube

    • Eine 1,6 mm Kreuzschlitz Schraube

When reassembling, note the black jumper cable that runs next to the battery ribbon cable. Sometimes this jumper comes off its little groove and can make seating the battery ribbon cable tricky. The black jumper should travel up that little ramp and then curve to the right.


A note about screw management: ALWAYS remove screws from left to right if you are just putting them in order of removal on a magnetic trey, it helps with re-assembly. If you can, I recommend getting a magnetic white board and writing the size of the screws on it and categorizing by that, it makes it way easier and you won't ever have to worry about putting the wrong size screw in anywhere ever again.

Addison Rasmussen - Antwort

What length are these screws?

Alberto Anaya - Antwort

You actually need a Phillips #0000 not #000.

Dan - Antwort

Any risk if I put wrong screw?

syidan - Antwort

So without ph#0000, i'm screwed, right?

Osjua Newton - Antwort

I managed to remove all the internal screws with PH000 that came with the ifixit battery replacement kit

Gavin - Antwort

It helps if you have fine pointed forceps to remove the thin delicate plate after removing the screws. long pointed forceps also help in placing the screws into their holes when you're putting everything back together at the end.

Eclectica - Antwort

Image 1/1:
  • Entferne die Metallabdeckung aus deinem iPhone.

When I did this strep the battery connector (step 12) came with it. There seemed to be a bit of adhesive but it wasn't hard to separate them after the fact.

davidmeyers - Antwort

Note the long, thin forceps in the photo. These aren't included in every vendor's tool set that ships with the replacement battery and I found it a necessary tool not only for removing this particular plate, but also for positioning the screws back into their holes when you're putting the thing back together. If your replacement kit doesn't include that tool, they're only a couple of bucks and you can get them at any computer geek shop like Micro Center.

Eclectica - Antwort

Image 1/1: Heble vorsichtig nur an dem Akkustecker und '''nicht''' am Anschluss auf dem Logic Board. Wenn du an der Logic Board Buchse hebelst, kannst du den Anschluss irreparabel beschädigen.
  • Heble den Akkustecker vorsichtig mit einem Plastik Opening Tool von seinem Anschluss auf dem Logic Board.

  • Heble vorsichtig nur an dem Akkustecker und nicht am Anschluss auf dem Logic Board. Wenn du an der Logic Board Buchse hebelst, kannst du den Anschluss irreparabel beschädigen.

Oh my God.

When prying, make sure you do it from the TOP or far TOP RIGHT corner using ONLY a spudger, and NOT like it is shown here on the picture.

There is a component next to the battery connector that is easily torn off the board if you're not careful. It's a common mistake made by somebody who have never done the repair before. This will make it so the phone looks like it's charging but only ever discharges. The component is the filter for the gas gauge line which is directly to the right of the battery connector and is extremely hard to see. They look like a tiny-tiny silver cylinders and you would need a microscope to actually be able to distinguish them.

Hope this helps.

Haytham Alexander - Antwort

The replacement battery out of the ifixit box: The connector may not fit immediately to the contact on the logic board. I needed to bend the stiff (metal-like?) cable quite a bit to find a shape of the cable that allows the connector to fit to the contact.

Salta SMR SAS - Antwort

Ditto the comments by Salta. I compared the iFixit battery cable to the battery cable of the one I had removed and found that I needed to kind of crimp the cable a bit where it needs to fit between the battery and the connector. It's all quite stiff. Make sure the connector snaps into place!

gobluethunder - Antwort

Image 1/1: Zwei 1,2 mm Kreuzschlitz Schrauben
  • Entferne die folgenden Schrauben, die die Kabelabdeckung der Display Einheit am Logic Board befestigen:

    • Zwei 1,2 mm Kreuzschlitz Schrauben

    • Eine 1,6 mm Kreuzschlitz Schraube

      • Diese Schraube wird in der Regel nicht von einem magnetisierten Schraubenzieher angezogen. Passe auf, dass du sie beim Entfernen nicht verlierst – eine magnetisierte Schraube könnte mit dem Kompass interferieren.

Anyone have any idea why the 1.6mm screw is not magnetic? Just wondering why this screw seems to be made of aluminum, its the first screw of its kind as far as iphones go.

crevz - Antwort

The compass is right next to it.

Tom Chai -

I'd recommend if they made that clearer in the guide, luckily I put them back in right, its the one with the little bit of blue on it if i recall that isn't magnetic

Matt -

is it necessary to disconnect the front panel assembly cables fore removing the battery ?

or can you leave it on wile replacing the battery ?

aardappel - Antwort

I just finished this process using the battery replacement kit from ifixit and it went easily. I did NOT remove the entire screen but rather just had someone hold it at less than a 90 degree angle until I got the battery out. I found it took a while to slowly pry the battery out. Take your time and alternate between gently using the plastic tool and pulling on the plastic pull tab that says "for authorized use only" or something like that. It was MUCH easier than disconnecting the entire screen for the process. Hope this helps.

david -

Rule #1 on electronics repair methodology: to prevent damage to the electronics, power should be the first thing to be removed and the last to be restored. I'd disconnect the battery before touching anything else, a slip of the screwdriver or a loose screw could cause a fatal short circuit.

andrewcilia - Antwort

It's no need to remove front panel to change battery. I just skip to Step 10 and successfully changed battery, and it works well. And THANKS TO ifixit.com, IT IS AWESOME!

sorrowboy - Antwort

I skipped steps 6-9. leaving the screen attached to the phone makes it that much easier and quicker to repair

Frank - Antwort

Mon téléphone a pris l'humidité et présente un fond d'écran d'aspect granuleux. Du coup l'éclairage n'est plus uniforme, nuisible pour une bonne lecture de l'écran.

J'ai démonté l'écran, une pellicule grasse et collante entre le LCD et la plaque métallique. J'ai nettoyé à l'alcool. Tout remonter avec la crainte que le téléphone ne fonctionne plus.

Le téléphone s'est rallumé, tout fonctionne normalement mais j'ai toujours ses traces sur le fond d'écran. Il faut le changer!

Mes difficultés étaient de remettre les petites vis aimantés, difficiles à remettre!

Merci à IFIXIT pour ce tutoriel très explicite.

Patrick Rosa, june 23 2014

pkrosa - Antwort

So, of COURSE I dropped the screw that you are not supposed to lose. I was being careful, but as I did not want to lose track of it, I attempted to put it back ing the phone FIRST. Bad idea. This makes the plate kind of springy, and my screwdirver slipped, and the screw popped up, spun in the air, fell between my legs, bounced off my padded chair, and clattered around on the floor. I searched for an hour, and could not locate it. BE IT KNOWN, at least in MY CASE, the screw WAS INDEED attracted to my magnet (I keep a powerful round magnet stuck to the shaft of my drivers to provite the magnetism, far more powerful than a regular magnetic screwdriver. This being the case, I WAS able to provide a substitute fron a bag of iphone 4 screws, and my compass calibrated flawlessly upon power-up. YOUR MILEAGE MAY VARY, but I thought I'd add my experience.

stevesontheroad - Antwort

Be warned, the 1.6mm screw is exceptionally easy to strip. I haven't been able to get it out yet (already tried rubber band trick and a few others) and am on the verge of giving up. The #00 screwdriver that comes with the set did not do a very good job of catching.

joseparra947 - Antwort

Were you ever able to get it out? Mine seemed stripped from the get go, rendering my attempt to troubleshoot my blank screen fruitless. Rubber band, glue, flat-head all did not work for me. Buying a soldering iron tomorrow to try that.

randypalmerjr -

I did the repair without disconnecting the screen. I skipped down to step 13 and carefully held the screen while removing the battery. Adds a small element difficulty, but helps prevent all the issues others are having when reconnecting the screen.


The non-magnetized screw was very difficult to install. This is how I ultimately succeeded:

Install the two magnetized screws first. They are easy because the magnetized screws will stick to then end of the screwdriver. They will hold the cable bracket in place.

Place the third, non-magnetized, screw on the center of the cable bracket. Take a toothpick and nudge the screw toward the screw hole. The threaded part of the screw (the shaft) has enough weight that it will fall into the hole, and the head of the screw will be pointed upward. You will then be able to use the screwdriver.

alsmith1928 - Antwort

Put a piece of tape on the table sticky side up. Set the screw on the tape head down. lift the tape and guide the screw in place. drive the head of your screw driver through the tape and tighten screw. lift off tape. throw away. :)

rdgentry -

The tape trick works well. Another way is to dip the screwdriver in alcohol (isopropanol, do NOT use water) and put the screw on its tip. It will be held there until the liquid is evaporated, which should be sufficient to put it in place.

Kater_S -

One of the screw is completely stuck and I cannot remove it! What can I do?

stefanoclearmounth - Antwort

When putting it back together, I replugged in all three of the ribbon cables and powered on the phone to test before putting everything back together. All was OK except for the Home button, it had no effect when pressed. I ended up unplugging and replugging the 3 ribbon cables a few times and retrying. I then cleaned the connectors using a can of compressed air, screwed the little silver cover back on and snapped the whole phone back together, hoping everything would be fine. It was. I don't know if the problem was a dirty connector, or if you need to close the phone to make the home button work again.

I recommend wiping the plastic prying tool after lifting the screen off, it gets dirty from the gunk build up and some of that could eventually fall inside the phone.

My battery was really stuck, so much that the plastic tab broke when pulling. I followed someones advice to heat the back of the phone with a hair dryer, still wasn't super easy but I managed to get the battery out, only deforming it slightly.

grosstua - Antwort

The contacts for the home button are on the phone base so the screen needs to be in place for the button to work..

Liam Carson -

Step 9-12 are totally unnecessary unless you need to replace a broken screen. All you need is to keep the front panel in a vertical position once the front is open. The battery can be removed without taken out the 3 connectors which by the way the screws are very very tiny and difficult to put back.

rich1812 - Antwort

I completely agree. These are unnecessary steps. Might be a little easier to pry the battery out with the display completely off, but not enough to make it worthwhile IMHO.

davidmeyers -

Is the 1.2mm a #000 or #0000? I have a small set and can't get one of these out. The instructions say a 1.2mm, the tools list shows #000, but my set says #000 = 1.5mm.

Kevin - Antwort

1.2 mm refers to the length of the screw (from head to end), the screw head size is compatible with a Phillips #000 driver. So as long as you have a #000 you should be set! Good luck =)

Sam Lionheart -

Invest in and use some colored Sharpie Pens... I color the tops of the screws orange and red etc. to match the colors of the circles in this guide. Then when I go to put them back in there's no doubt as to which screw is the correct size.

Pete H - Antwort

What an idea, lol.

bigfnevil -

frustrated...screws to battery holder is stripped, now what?

Martin Gonzalez - Antwort

Maybe a small amount of loctite. I noticed the P2 screws holding the display down had a small amount on my iPhone 5.

Steve Heigh -

Como se ha comentado más arriba, no es necesario desmontar la pantalla, yo he sustituido la batería aplicando calor con el iOpener y siguiendo atentamente la guía. Resultado óptimo.

Cesar Martin - Antwort

Yes, right! I, too, do not see the need to remove the LCD display at all; except, when one is replacing a broken display. The battery is ready for replacement once you had removed its bracket.

valuesphilippines - Antwort

I found that it wasn't at all necessary to remove the front glass. I did need to use a hair dryer to soften the glue holding the battery, but I simply laid the phone down on the face glass and blew the hot dryer on the back for a couple of minutes at almost point blank range. Then I simply held the phone open with one hand, making sure the front glass never went back more than about 80 degrees (no need to stretch it all the way to 90 degrees), and used my other hand to work the spudger around the battery, making sure not to touch any delicate electronics in the area. The top right corner gave away first and then I worked it down from there and the battery came out pretty easily. The trick is to use the hair dryer for a few minutes beyond the phone being too hot to hold in your hand! (you might need to use a towel to pick it up when you pry the battery out.)

Eclectica - Antwort

Image 1/2: Für eine korrekte Installation stelle sicher, dass die  Abdeckung unter dem Logic Board eingehakt ist und schließe die Kabelabdeckung dann Richtung Rand des iPhones. Image 2/2: Für eine korrekte Installation stelle sicher, dass die  Abdeckung unter dem Logic Board eingehakt ist und schließe die Kabelabdeckung dann Richtung Rand des iPhones.
  • Hebe die Kabelabdeckung der Display Einheit Richtung Akku vom Logic Board und entferne ihn.

  • Für eine korrekte Installation stelle sicher, dass die Abdeckung unter dem Logic Board eingehakt ist und schließe die Kabelabdeckung dann Richtung Rand des iPhones.

My iPhone 5 (1428) model don't has this bracket and replacing the earpiece don't fix my problem (don't hear anyone).

plyhell - Antwort

Great Guide, Any idea what else could be wrong if Ive replaced the screen with a working 1 and the phone still has no display?

Thanks for any insight in advance.

Raistlin - Antwort

When you reverse step 7, make sure you clip the little hooks of the bracket under and then lower towards the outside of the phone. If you don't, the phone won't snap back together properly.

Dirk - Antwort

I've misplaced this metal plate AND the three screws and two pentalobe screws. I think my wife threw out the ziplock I had them in. Any chance you can tell me where to get them? thx

Don - Antwort

Don't forget to clip this in flush, my phone couldn't get a cell signal when it was slightly out-of-place.

julian - Antwort

Remember to put this plate back such that it's sitting evenly. The side towards the battery some times tends to stick up a bit, this in turn will put pressure on the backplate of the screen. After putting everything back together, you see a small yellow smear just to the left of the battery % indicator, you have not put that plate on correctly. Open up the phone, remove that retention plate and put it back such that it sits properly!

AGS - Antwort

Opened my iPhone 5 etc. When reassembling, I notice the screen doesn't stay clipped into the back tray and is raised a couple of mils.

There is also a new brighter spot on the screen. Any ideas anyone?

Ian Campbell -

I really wonder about the wisdom, and risk, of removing this upper plate in step 14 - unless I missed it, those three cables are NOT connected to the battery in anyway - and the chances for stuffing up said cables re-assembly are moderate to high! I can see that one would have to be careful taking that bracket and disconnecting those three cables ( I certainly was), but it looks to me like there's a case for just undoing the battery bracket & screws and carefully - very carefully - with great patience and some good spudgers, esp the black ones we use in desktop iMacs, - flat one end; pointy the other - plus the usual blue plastic ones and even a guitar pick - prying the battery out from its hideyhole! Much less stress regarding the upper bracket and the three cables while only a bit more stress over releasing the battery from its sticky grip! Anywho, I might have to stand corrected - but next time I'll go for this abreviated method. :)

amicuset - Antwort

please do not do this part....after you remove the bracket over the battery don't mess with the 3 cables at the top or remove its bracket. Just carefully remove the battery and insert the new one. the idea of using the rubber band helped a lot with the entire procedure and i did it in one very easily. thank you ifixit and most importantly the comments. Make sure to read all the comments before doing each step even when you r reassembling.

Anderson Ashby - Antwort

Image 1/3: Frontkamera und Sensorkabel Image 2/3: LCD Kabel Image 3/3: Digitizer Kabel
  • Benutze ein Plastik Opening Tool, um die drei Kabel an der Display Einheit zu lösen:

    • Frontkamera und Sensorkabel

    • LCD Kabel

    • Digitizer Kabel

      • Beim Wiederzusammenbau kann sich das LCD Kabel wieder vom Anschluss lösen. Das kann weiße Linien verursachen oder der Bildschirm bleibt beim Anschalten des iPhones schwarz. Wenn das passiert, verbinde das Kabel einfach erneut und führe einen Power Cycle Vorgang durch. Am besten ist es, den Akku zu trennen und wieder zu verbinden.

The part itfixit sent only has two cables: the digitizer and LCD are combined into a single cable. (And the guide is great! Thanks!)

baileyswanson - Antwort

After replacing the screen I was presented with a no image screen (but backlight was ok), so I refited the shartered one, same issue, no image, but backlight. thinking I might damage the pcb, I just did a power cycle (disconnecting the battery) and now it's fine.

so... always powercycle :)

poseido - Antwort

Be very careful here, at this point the phone power is live! a slip of the connectors or a loose screw could let the magic smoke out of the chips (chips won't work without their magic smoke, you know :-)

I'd disconnect the battery before messing with the connectors.

andrewcilia - Antwort

This is a troublesome step, since the LCD connector is particularly difficult to reconnect, and know that you've gotten it on. And thanks to the note claiming that if it's disconnected, if you might just get a black screen, you're left with having to disassemble the entire unit again, without knowing if it's powered off (since you presumably tried to power on). That's also nerve-wracking. I had this problem and disassembled and reassembled the entire phone, only to have the problem again. On the second try, I plugged the phone into power, and after a little bit, got the dead battery screen showing. So the problem was that the battery was discharged, not that I'd biffed the LCD connector.

Adam Engst - Antwort

The hint to disconnect the battery was very useful for my successful repair. After rebooting the phone everything was working just fine. Thanks!

benjaminjrichter - Antwort


Take a good look at that camera loosely sitting there. It is possible that it will be slightly offset when shutting the assembly back into place. This causes it to not properly focus on closeups. If you don't move it around you will probably be okay.

Also, look at the display assembly, it has three small locking tabs that can bend easily if not pushed in at the right angle into the iPhone frame. Be careful not to be too forceful. Good luck.

info - Antwort

I am having issues removing the white lines on my screen. I made sure to connect the digitiizer connector was seated all the way and I also power cycled my phone several times. Anyone else having this issue?

eric51redding - Antwort

When I was reassembling this the front facing camera cable was a bit longer than the previous one. I had to kink the ribbon cable a bit to get the connection to line up. Everything seems to be working but I wanted to note that the part might be slightly off spec.

Aaron Martina - Antwort

I am very satisfied with the replacement display assembly (including FaceTime camera and Home button) iFixit sent. It arrived a day early, fit perfectly, and has fixed the color banding, cracked screen, and scratched edges very well. In addition, the home button now has a much crisper "click" to it, more like the new MacBook's keys vs those of an older MacBook Pro.

Nathan Jones - Antwort

This step is not needed to remove the battery and complicates the process by having to reconnect the sensors.

nicholaskan - Antwort

if my lcd metal plate is scratched can i replace it to remove the lines or do i need a new lcd

brittany stapleton - Antwort

When I started the phone again, there was a grid pattern and touch was not working consistently. It turns out there were two separate problems. (1) We had over-handled the cables and a quick swab of alcohol helped remove the oil from the connections. (2) The first connection is really tricky to get right and comes undone easily during the final reassembly.

Jeannie Crowley - Antwort

I had this problem too (not the oil though). When I first restarted the phone, I had white crosses over the display, and the digitiser didn't work. The only way to shut down the phone was to hold the home key & power key for 8 seconds until the display went black. Reseating the LCD & Digitiser connectors, and power cycling by reconnecting the battery fixed the problem. Hope this info helps others.

Tom Hannen -

In the image you can see the camera has lifted out a bit. Mine did this too, because the old screen had levered it out. To push the camera back into position you need to insert a fine tool behind a small metal spring contact because it catches on the camera's casing otherwise. This little spring is to the left of the metal case, between the camera and ribbon.

pauldevans - Antwort

Great pics too. Pls confirm if the three photos in Step 15 only show removal of 2 of the 3 connectors mentioned in the instruction (and colored bullets). I could not tell which was the third one to remove in the three photos. Thanks!

gandarlmg - Antwort

So I keep getting the "white lines on the LCD" bit with no resolution. I've tried reconnecting the connector like 6 times and power cycling and I get the exact same thing every time? Is it possible that the replacement screen has an issue?

Jared Spencer - Antwort

May I ask what the 4th little connector is that comes from under your battery and connects to the board mine came undone during repair and won't go back in

Cameron - Antwort

Watch the soft pad between the rear camera enclosing and the top side of the frame, especially when reassembling. After replacing the battery, my camera pictures gradually showed lots of dust spots. I opened the device again and discovered that the pad had been displaced. However, I am not fully sure if that is the reason for the spots.

Kater_S - Antwort

On reinstall, I can't get the connectors to line up and the replacement screen has 3 connectors where as my busted screen had only 2. The cables on the replacement screen are too short? Is that even possible?

maryann miller - Antwort

Image 1/1:
  • Entferne die Display Einheit vom hinteren Gehäuse.

My display was not turning on and my home button was not working (I verified this by trying to activate siri which didn't work). When I replaced the display assembly everything works except for the home button. Since this assembly comes with the button and the ribbon cable, I'm not sure what else can be wrong. I checked the contacts on the phone and I see the little copper 'pins' sticking out. I can't tell if they are making contact since the display has to be closed, but it appears they are lined up correctly. Does anyone have any suggestions or ways to test the contact pins? Could the home button on my replacement be defective? I've already emailed support, but just curious if anyone has any suggestions I could try while waiting to hear back from them. Thanks! By the way, SUPER grateful the rest of the display works. I can now back up my phone and can probably deal with a broken home button if I need to. Woohoo!

jhagerman - Antwort

I'm having issues where the screen jumps around when you get a finger near it. I'm reading it might be grounding but no idea where any tape could be applied. Replaced the screen twice thinking it was a bad part. Now, I just don't know.

Ana Van Meter - Antwort

My front camera does not work. I took apart and ensured the connection several, several , several times.... no front camera... anyone else have this issue?

Patricia Young - Antwort

Try replacing the camera and flex assembly.

Greg M -

Image 1/1: Wenn du Probleme hast den Akku zu entfernen, erhitze die Rückseite des iPhones mit einem iOpener oder Fön, um den Kleber weicher zu machen.
  • Ziehe an der freigelegten Plastiklasche, um den Akku vom Kleber zu lösen, der ihn im Gehäuse befestigt.

    • Wenn du Probleme hast den Akku zu entfernen, erhitze die Rückseite des iPhones mit einem iOpener oder Fön, um den Kleber weicher zu machen.

    • Die Plastikziehlasche ist sehr zerbrechlich und kann leicht reißen. Wenn deine Lasche reißt, bevor der Akku entfernt ist, vollführe die folgenden Schritte.

The Guide misses the Point, where the Battery is disconnected, between steps 12 and 13 (German version).

Max Next - Antwort

After struggling for awhile, I followed the hair-dryer tip and prying in the empty space on the case side of the battery just below the volume buttons as suggested in one of tips in step 19. Don't understand the advice in the video about the only safe places to pry. They completely contradict step 19!

davidmeyers - Antwort

Agreed on the note about the contradiction. Didn't understand that either, but makes more sense to pry along the outside of the case where you're less likely to damage any internal components.

TheJB -

I didn't need to remove the battery to complete the steps after.

Kenny Evitt - Antwort

That tab broke pretty easy on me. Use some heat. Seems like I am taking a lot apart to get to the lightning connector.

Joe Wasser - Antwort

I was very surprised by how much heat I needed to apply to loosen the glue. I used a blow dryer and then heated up a rice-filled pillow-thing I use for sore muscles. I put that inside a plastic bag to avoid the moisture and pried while phone sat on that. It was hotter than I would normally make it for muscles! But that did the trick. Still had to pry pretty hard and it finally let go with a bit of a snap. I just pried with a spudger at the open space along the left side of the battery, about mid-way up.

gobluethunder - Antwort

Image 1/1: Das weicht den Kleber des Akkus auf, was das Entfernen aus dem Gehäuse vereinfacht.
  • Wenn die Lasche abreißt und der Akku an der Rückseite kleben bleibt, bereite einen iOpener vor oder benutze einen Haartrockner, um die Rückseite direkt hinter dem Akku zu erhitzen.

    • Das weicht den Kleber des Akkus auf, was das Entfernen aus dem Gehäuse vereinfacht.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Image 1/2: Wenn sich der Akku nicht aus dem Gehäuse entfernen lässt, erhitze den iOpener erneut und versuche es noch einmal. Image 2/2: Heble vorsichtig und gleichmäßig, um den Akku nicht zu verformen. Ein verbogener Akku kann sich selbst entzünden.
  • Heble mit einem Plastic Opening Tool den Akku vorsichtig nach oben, aber nur an der äußeren Kante des Telefons. Hebelst du irgendwo anders, besonders beim Logic Board, kann dieses beschädigt werden.

  • Wenn sich der Akku nicht aus dem Gehäuse entfernen lässt, erhitze den iOpener erneut und versuche es noch einmal.

  • Heble vorsichtig und gleichmäßig, um den Akku nicht zu verformen. Ein verbogener Akku kann sich selbst entzünden.

  • Heble nicht an der Oberkante des Akkus oder du riskierst, die Lautstärkekontrollkabel durchzutrennen.

Just wanted to add to these comments, the clear plastic tab (says Authorized Service Provider Only on it) is the way to go. The plastic for this tab goes under the battery and around and through the adhesive, if you pull it at a 45° angle the battery comes off without the need to pry on it at all. You will want to pull with a constant force, as the adhesive is very strong, but it starts fairly easily, and comes up evenly-- you'll be able to see the glue releasing as you pull.

Scott Denowh - Antwort

Depending on exactly where your battery is glued, you will (or you won't) have enough room for the plastic opening tool. I didn't and had to leverage off the other side. Unlike the front cover which required surprisingly little force to remove it (almost ripped the flex cords joining the front and the back), the battery required superhuman strength to remove, destroying the two spodgers (parts yet to be found they flew off with such force) and deforming the battery (which personally I would have no use for reusing in any case).

oz - Antwort

Reading other comments of how applying too much force caused breaking of components I was too timid and the battery removal process was very time consuming. I recommend watching the video in the battery replacement guide. I was able to see how much force was being applied to remove the battery. I found that the opposite end of the plastic removal tool was bitting into my hand, which was more sensitive to the required pressure than that applied to the components. The adhesive was quite strong and I used the point end of a spudger to gradually pry up the battery where it was most stuck at the bottom right. As useful as the comment about using the plastic tab was, mine was slightly cut by the edge of a flat cable, it split and the tab came off, making prying the battery necessary. Being mindful of the balance of force is what makes the removal successful.

Canis Lupis - Antwort

I use credit card and put wider side to pry battery this make batter not deform easily

christmas - Antwort

do not pry on the logic board side pry for the volume keys side this

con - Antwort

I can confirm with con (mar 4). The adhesive was pretty firmly holding my battery down. So I used a metal screwdriver to help leverage the battery out from the top of the battery. Not knowing that the ribbon for the volume button and switch from the left side of the phone were under there. I severed the ribbon and now those buttons don't work anymore. But I was able to replace the battery and everything else works fine. I just have to learn how to live without those buttons anymore...

mknight - Antwort

*My plastic tag ripped while trying to pull the battery out.

*I then used a spudger type tool to GENTLY pry the battery out from the LEFT side of the case in the middle of the battery.

*Turns out all the adhesive is on the plastic tab side underneath the battery, so it is MUCH easier to leverage the battery out that way without causing damage. There is nothing you can really hurt on the left middle side either so I recommend this way if your plastic tab does not work to pull the battery up.

kjfolgner - Antwort

I couldn't pull the battery out after pulling on that tab for over 10 minutes. I used a knife on the left side where it seemed nothing was and luckily the battery slid right out no problem.

sleepycali07 - Antwort

Try heating the phone at the back where the battery is with a heat gun or hair dryer (what I used) and then pull the tab, and if you still can't get the battery to start coming of give it a little nudge with a prying tool at the top.

jeru - Antwort

The battery was really glued down tight, and pulling the plastic tab eventually ripped the tab off and I could no longer use it. After 15 minutes of gently lifting with the plastic opening tool and getting nowhere, I followed the suggestion about using a hair dryer to soften the glue. I blew heat on the back of the phone where the battery is for about 30 seconds, and then used the plastic tool on the side of the phone with the volume buttons, and it lifted out with very little resistance.

I want to stress that it was not a ton of heat--I held the phone in my hand while using the hair dryer, and it was hot on my hand but never so hot that it burned me. The point isn't to cook the phone, just to warm up the glue so it gives a little.

Prying from the volume side will also reduce the chance that you dislodge the GPS connector.

bill - Antwort

Well, the battery was really giving me problems when trying to remove it. I had no chance just using the plastic tag so I had to pry it loose. I would not recommend prying the upper side of the battery as shown in the pictures due to the audio control and power button cable running just under the upper edge of the battery. I was not aware of this cable and ended up damaging it when the plastic removal tool slipped under the cable when prying. I believe this cable supplies power to the vibrator as well since that's what ended up not working when everything was back in its place. Fortunately this cable can be replaced but it looks like a bit of a hassle but i'll try. Try using the hair dryer before prying too much would be my recommendation.

Anders Fagerstedt - Antwort

I put a bowl of water in the microwave with a plate on top. Once the plate was mildly hot, I took it out and placed my iphone on it to heat up the adhesive. I tried pulling the plastic tab, but nothing would happen. I noticed that there is an ideal prying point on the opposite side of the battery from the plastic tab (an inch below the volume buttons). There are no ribbon cables or circuits there, and there is a cutout large enough to fit the plastic pry tool. Pry gently there against the case (once the phone is warmed up on the plate) and the battery comes out very easily. It really seems like that cutout is there just for that reason.

flyingsherpa - Antwort

Wish I'd read your comment before I did this step! :-)

Nicholas Bestevaar -

The word "pry" should not appear anywhere in the this section as the damage others have experienced witness. LIFT instead with the end of the tool. hairdryer really helped with softening and loosening the glue.

gdomnick - Antwort

Just an advice:

I think it is needless to remove the battery at this stepp. I have remove the battery at last.

Hunt3rDe - Antwort

It would have been helpful if the notes for step 16 (prying out the battery) had mentioned that the Audio Control and Power Button Cable is fragile and behind the top of the battery! I was gently prying out my battery from the top when I tore the power button ribbon that I could not see.

Titus - Antwort

This step is the toughest one. My old battery glued on the board stubbornly and refuses to come out. It took me half hour or so to pry it out. It has deformed and way beyond usable state. The key here is to pry from all allowed angles (refer to the pictures and video), and pry patiently. Mine starts to come out after prying from the top.

wengkeeteh - Antwort

When prying the battery off at the first battery position shown in the picture (the gap between battery socket the battery itself), a small rounded metal spudger (like the one that comes with the iFixit Pro Tech Toolkit) is recommended if you break your plastic prying tool (like happens to me) during this step. Just make sure that when prying up, you are not touching either the battery socket nor any other logic board component.

I also recommend to use a tool like the iOpener and put it on top of the battery for few minutes to reheat the battery and soften the battery adhesive during this step.

dcode - Antwort

I just wanted to mention that the battery can be VERY DIFFICULT to pull out. I used the plastic tab, but it broke off. I was forced to pry it out, but like I said, it didn't come out easily and the battery was all mangled by the time I pulled it free from the adhesive. This guide tells you where to pull and where to be careful, but it still made me very nervous! Just keep working at it if yours is also stubborn.

jhagerman - Antwort

I would suggest using both the clear tab and the plastic opening tool simultaneously to be able to remove the battery.

darcyearle - Antwort

Easy does it on this step. The adhesive is very strong. I though my battery wasn't going to come out. But even prying from all three indicated locations does it eventually.

jlwilliams03 - Antwort

Love how the battery changed to an iFixit branded battery, in the phone!!!!

Mac Daddy - Antwort

I was able to remove the battery after applying the iOpener twice for about 10 minutes. I pulled at the plastic tab and used the plastic opening toll together. The battery lifted while applying permanent strong force.

Stefan Begerad - Antwort

How about using a suction cup on the battery, along with a pry tool?

twentyclockshigh - Antwort

Image 1/1: Achte beim Wiederzusammenbau darauf, dass der Akku fest am hinteren Gehäuse anliegt. Das verhindert Schäden an anderen Komponenten, wenn du die Display Einheit wiedereinsetzt.
  • Entferne den Akku.

  • Achte beim Wiederzusammenbau darauf, dass der Akku fest am hinteren Gehäuse anliegt. Das verhindert Schäden an anderen Komponenten, wenn du die Display Einheit wiedereinsetzt.

  • Führe nach dem Austausch einen Hard Reset durch. Dieser hilft diverse Probleme zu vermeiden und eventuell trotzdem nötige Fehlersuche zu vereinfachen.

I have removed the battery in many iphone 5 phones to repair other issues and never had a problem with reusing the battery.

dlash - Antwort

Hello from Cyprus there ...i have a problem when i open my iphone white lines appear on the screen so i disconnected the battery and then connect it again and the screen got black i mean black 'light ' no image appear at anyway ... Anyway i listen the sound when the phone open or change ... Any help to get reed of it?

Stelios - Antwort

Charge *. .

Stelios - Antwort

I can't recommend changing the battery, I did everything as shown but my iPhone doesn't work anymore. If I connect it to itunes it wants it to restore and when I do that. It sets itself back in recovery mode. I did not break anything and used only plastic tools to remove the parts. Even after I put the old battery back in it still shows the "connect to iTunes"

Does anyone have an idea what to do?

Patrick - Antwort

Have the same problem... Have you found any solutions?

Tadas Berlinskas -

Hi, I thought that when I prised the battery out, I'd knocked 2 chips off the logic board, chances are this is what's happened to you too... They need to change this tutorial to use the plastic tab to remove the battery as I've seen several people with this issue. The only way to fix this is to get 2 jumpers soldered onto the logic board. For now, I used tinyumbrella to get it out of recovery mode & I have enable to assistive touch options.

Lewis Spears -

Any luck finding a solution to this? I replaced my battery and the repair went relatively smoothly... but now it's stuck in an endless loop trying to restore the firmware. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

nathan domeij -

Quick tip: Don't completely peel away the plastic from the base of the phone. The plastic has a mechanical (but not electrical) purpose and should not be removed. The step directions make it seem that you can peel away the plastic, but don't do that. Peel and pry the battery out but leave the plastic in place. I made this mistake and Apple wouldn't repair my iPhone because the plastic was missing. The guy said that the plastic holds the circuitry in place and away from the battery. Do not remove the plastic.

tedgarey1 - Antwort

My iphone 5 keeps switching from vibrate to ring randomly on its own. Do you think this would solve the problem"

dconnelly15 - Antwort

Well, I followed all the instructions...took some time/muscle to get both the cover off and the battery out. I followed all the instructions and when I put it back together, all I get are white lines on the screen. shoulda paid the extra $50 for apple to do the battery replacement.

notlad1974 - Antwort


After replacing my battery on iPhone 5, my GPS was shotty and couldn't pinpoint my exact location. Opened it back up and realized that that longer thiner cable running the length of the battery on the circuit board side wasn't clipped in its spot. WORKS LIKE A CHARM NOW!

Dan Hohlfeld - Antwort

Be careful to make sure your replacement battery gets put in the case seated at the bottom, if not when you close up the front facing camera will be on the battery and if you force it (not realizing) you will damage the front camera

Mike Hebert - Antwort

Hi Mike Hebert. Thanks for the suggestion. I went ahead and added a warning on step 16.

Walter Galan -


The first time I put the phone back together, I turned it on but had a black screen. I took it back apart and put it back together again, same thing. I thought that I must had torn something but kept tinkering with it. I discovered that some of the foam adhesive strip that goes on top of one of the wiring harnesses that snaps the screen back to the phone had come off and was actually on the receiving side of the wiring connector bracket (probably not using proper terms here). I used the plastic tool that came with the kit and removed it (I was careful not to touch with my fingers for fear or oil getting on the harness). Tried again still nothing.. thankfully I did not give up as it turns out that connector on the far right of the screen connection harness is tricky. I thought I had heard it click before, but I really looked at this time and realized I had to turn it slightly inward to get it perfectly straight, and then it clicked. Success! Hope this helps someone.

clongjax - Antwort


I have done everything correct, but I have 2 problems, the power button and the home button is not working anymore. Can somebody help. Thanks

Roberto - Antwort

have u fixed maine also not working stuck in recovery mode and home power button not working

blero -

I have the same problem. I need help

Juan Fernando Escamilla -

The recovery mode problem as ive found so far is unfixable apple geeks said its toast as well as att. Ive tryed redsn0w and tinyumbrella to kick it out of recovery mode and it does but restarts right back into it. Itunes fails to update or restore. This is a significant risk to be sure, i had no problems changing the battery no clips broken no unnecessary prying and its well powered brick now.on the plus side im gonna leave it plugged in cause im hoping the added power drain will end the zombie apoc sooner.

knave3b -

I thought I'd done something wrong because my phone would not turn on.... even after a few hours. I finally charged it overnight and then did a hard restart (holding the power button and home button at the same time) and it worked! I have no experience doing this sort of thing and it was a little intimidating, but the video really helped, and it was manageable... not easy, but if you have the motivation and steady hands you should be able to pull it off.

Carol White - Antwort

I thought I did everything correctly but my phone didn't power on as I thought it should. I went back and double checked that everything was connected correctly (which I hope it is and I didn't damage anything in the process) I figure maybe the battery has to charge but usually once it plugs in after a few minutes it shows that its charging and in this case it is not charging. Also, I received a liberation kit with a small piece on it. Can you tell what this is for?

Rina Andrade - Antwort

This is hard. Tab broke pretty easy and a hair dryer did nothing. I put a plat in the microwave with a large bowl of water under it. Heated it till I could barely touch it and then laid the phone on it. Make sure the plate is big enough for the whole back of the phone to touch it. Leave it on a few minutes and the phone should get pretty hot but still touchable. I GENTLY pried at the top and on the outside edge and it came out fine. Patience is a huge virtue on this step.

Joe Wasser - Antwort

I can't get the new battery connector to snap into the port. This doesn't seem to be mentioned as a problem step for other people. Any hints?

Tanya Stewart - Antwort

oops, figured it out, battery was for 5s, not 5

Tanya Stewart - Antwort

When you install the new battery, if the compartment is a bit larger than the battery, push the battery over to the side wall and leave about 1mm space between the battery and the electronics. This will give you more room to place the battery cable with the proper twist.

Eclectica - Antwort

By the way, it's easier if you first plug the battery connector into the board on the phone and THEN position the battery into the battery compartment. This way you'll have the greatest degree of freedom to position the connector for proper insertion.

Eclectica - Antwort

Image 1/1:
  • Heble mit der Spitze eines Spudgers den Antennenkabelanschluss für mobilen Daten aus seiner Fassung auf dem Logic Board über dem Lautsprechergehäuse.

REMOVING THE LOGIC BOARD ASSEMBLY IS COMPLETELY UNNECCESSARY FOR THIS REPAIR!!!! The dock connector flex cable can be slid under the board wihtout removing it. I just did it myself without a problem.

Stages 16-27 need to be removed from this guide!!!


That's true... no need to remove the MLB. The cable slides out easily.

ozarkana - Antwort

Agreed - steps 15-27 can be skipped if one is just replacing the speaker. I completed mine today with these very helpful pictures and descriptions.

tsc70 - Antwort

Actually, you can skip 16-19 and 23-27 -- I found the others to be necessary.

I also think you can probably skip removing the battery altogether - I removed it just to be safe, but do not think it was necessary. That said, removing the battery gave me more room to work with (or seemed to, at least).

chrismartinphd - Antwort

Image 1/1: Eine 1,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube
  • Entferne die folgenden zwei Schrauben, welche den oberen Bügel des Logic Boards befestigen:

    • Eine 1,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube

    • Eine 2,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube

Kommentar hinzufügen

Image 1/2: Pass auf, dass du den kleinen Erdungswinkel nicht abbrichst, der über den Bügel neben der hinteren Kamera hinaussteht. Image 2/2: Bei neueren Modellen kann der Bügel am Kameragehäuse festgemacht sein und nicht vollständig herauskommen.
  • Entferne den Bügel oben am Logic Board.

  • Pass auf, dass du den kleinen Erdungswinkel nicht abbrichst, der über den Bügel neben der hinteren Kamera hinaussteht.

  • Bei neueren Modellen kann der Bügel am Kameragehäuse festgemacht sein und nicht vollständig herauskommen.

Retirar esta platina, es un trabajo fácil, pero la platina queda adherida a la rear cam, se debe retirar con cuidado de la camara, pues tiene un patica que se acopla de forma mecánica a la camara.

Se debe retirar con cuidado , para luego utilizar la misma platina en la nueva camara de reemplazo.

De toda la guía en nuestro caso , este fue el paso mas engorroso.

Superado esto todo fué normal.

Nota: Perdimos 2 tornillos de esta guía:

Un tornillo de la platina en el paso 17

Otro tornillo en el paso 10, el tornillo central que asegura las 2 platinas .



Gonzalo Gabriel Gonzalez Cano - Antwort

Je fajn, ze tu pises vo svojej reci, tak isto ako ja. Rozumiet ti bude presne tolko ludi co mne, tak nabuduce tu pis v anglictine a neotravuj ostatnych svojou domorodou skomoleninou.

Lukas Franko -

My phone had the bracket attached to the camera and snapped off. When I put everything back together my bottom mic stopped working. Could this top logic board bracket not being attached anymore cause this?

scotty7676 - Antwort

What if I broke the tiny grounding tab next to the rear camera that he warns against? Is it possible to find this replacement part?

Raquel Aviles - Antwort

Image 1/3: Oberes Interconnect-Kabel Image 2/3: Tastenkabel Image 3/3: Unteres Interconnect-Kabel
  • Benutze das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um die folgenden drei Kabel vom Logic Board zu lösen:

    • Oberes Interconnect-Kabel

    • Tastenkabel

    • Unteres Interconnect-Kabel

This is important and left out.

First Connector - Lift from the top of the phone to the bottom.

Second Connector - From the top right corner of the connector lift straight up. It will go to the left.

Third Connector - Hold the second cable back and again lift from the top right corner of the connector and it will go to the left.

Joe Wasser - Antwort

Despite being VERY careful I managed to split the upper connector head from the cable. Strangely, after reassembling the device I cannot find any malfunction. I wonder what the connector is for…

Kater_S - Antwort

Image 1/1:
  • Entferne die zwei 1,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben oben innen im hinteren Gehäuses.

I had to remove the battery to get the correct angle for these screws.

Richard Adleta - Antwort

What exactly do wedisconnect?This is not adishnetwork?And whatif oneconnectordivorced?Will thenetwork?I have a problem.iPhone5looking for a networkand can not find.

Alexey - Antwort

What is this used for ? I broke the one at the left (because the screw was impossible to remove...) but my phone seems to work fine after reassembled :o

Arnold - Antwort

I was unable to remove the screw on the left. Consequently, I ended up tearing the cable right where it is attached to the left screw, but as far as I can tell, everything on my iPhone is working properly.

dtmcquade - Antwort

Turns out this is the GPS antenna.

dtmcquade -

Whey did we take these screws out? Removal doesn't seem a pre-requisite for any other steps. In trying to put the phone back together, I can't get these screws back in - they don't seem to grab. But I also have this miscellaneous part that I don't know where it came from - it has one hole in the center and looks a bit like a wing. Anyone know what this is and whether it has anything to do with these two screws?

mbrooks - Antwort

I just watched the video and this step wasn't included. So why is it here?

mbrooks -

OK, I got the screws back in, but it still looks like an unnecessary step. And I still have that little wing thing. But the phone is working and charging!

mbrooks -

Hi mbrooks! These screws secure some thin cables with contacts on the end of the logic board. If you don't remove the screws, you'll end up tearing the cables (Sorry Arnold and dtmcquade =C).

Sam Lionheart -

What are these two cords are for? I broke one on the right because, I couldnt open the screw.

Sriram Bobba - Antwort

Some here states they are hard to remove. I used one of my Philips screw drivers. I'm not sure what type, but it removed the two screws easily. In the years that have past, doing repairs, I have got a lot of different equipments. Just be sure to use exatly the right screwdriver.

Kenneth Hilstan - Antwort

Image 1/1:
  • Entferne die einzelne 1,2 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, die in der Mitte des Logic Board Bügels übrig ist.

When putting this back together, you may find this bracket gets in the way of clipping the battery connection back on. If you do, losses the screw and swivel the bracket out of the way.

carllangton - Antwort

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Entferne den Bügel der mittleren Sektion vom Logic Board.

When I did this the ribbon cable beneath the plate stuck to the plate, and this guide makes no mention of this cable at all. Be aware that it has to be re routed and re attached to its positions on the logic board or your phone will not work, as i looks like some kind of RF cable.

stevesontheroad - Antwort

Image 1/2: Ziehe das Kabel vorsichtig zurück und weg, so dass das Logic Board gut erreichbar ist. Image 2/2: Ziehe das Kabel vorsichtig zurück und weg, so dass das Logic Board gut erreichbar ist.
  • Heble mit einem Spudger die Kabelverbindung des Lightning Anschlusses hoch aus seiner Fassung auf dem Logic Board.

  • Ziehe das Kabel vorsichtig zurück und weg, so dass das Logic Board gut erreichbar ist.

In my opinion spudger form the left side lifting to the right.

Joe Wasser - Antwort

Image 1/3: Entferne das SIM Card Fach vom iPhone. Image 2/3: Entferne das SIM Card Fach vom iPhone. Image 3/3: Entferne das SIM Card Fach vom iPhone.
  • Drücke das SIM Card Entriegelung auf der rechten Seite des iPhones mit einem SIM Card Eject Tool oder einer gebogenen Büroklammer, um das SIM Card Fach auszuwerfen.

  • Entferne das SIM Card Fach vom iPhone.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Image 1/1: Zwei 2,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben
  • Entferne die folgenden Schrauben, die das Logic Board am hinteren Gehäuse befestigen:

    • Zwei 2,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben

    • Zwei 2,7 mm Abstandshalter

      • Diese Schrauben haben einen Kreuzschlitzkopf, aber wir finden das beste Werkzeug zum Entfernen ist ein 2,5 mm Schlitzschraubendreher.

    • Ein nicht-magnetischer 2,7 mm Abstandshalter

      • Gehe sicher, dass du diese Schraube zurück in ihre ursprüngliche Position oben auf dem Logic Board setzt. Eine magnetisierte Schraube kann mit dem digitalen Kompass interferieren.

      • Hinweis zum Zusammenbau: wenn du die Abstandshalter wieder einsetzt, benutze zu Beginn die Spitze eines Spudgers wie einen Schraubendreher.

Before continuing to step 24, ifixit forgot one step !! you should peel carefully the ribbon flex cable of the dock and then remove the snap-on connector, then bend them down as already shown in step 24 - otherwise you can damage the main board !!!

rrryyy1 - Antwort

Using a flathead driver for the standoff screws is actually very irritating. Funny thing, if you just use the pentalobe driver you used to take out the first two screws for the iphone, the standoff screws come out very easily (I think this was by design, since the pentalobe driver fits snuggly into the opening of the standoff screw).

Nikolai Shkurkin - Antwort

The top/right standoff 2.7mm screw us made from aluminum. It is not equivalent to the remaining two 2.7mm standoffs. It should be kept apart and put back in its exact place.

If you happen to mix it with the other 2 screws, it is easy to differentiate: since it is made from aluminum, it will not stick to the tip of the magnetized screwdriver or the magnetized mat.

Rany - Antwort

The "2.7" mm screws are not phillips screws. The center hole is threaded to receive other screws. If you look at the previous steps, you can see the screws that screw into each one. While the instructions talk about a flat-head bit, I suspect there is a special bit for these, a "+" shaped bit, possibly with a recessed center (hard to tell without more magnification than I had.) Without that tool, the best alternate is a flathead. I would avoid using a bit in the center hole, since it may damage the threads.

jsharris - Antwort

- pentalob - did not work for me

- metal splunger flat side - did not work

- flat head that came with the ifixit kit, no size worked

- what did work was another set of nice miro-screwdrivers. The flate heat second from the biggest fit in the slots good enough. The little bastards are on there tight!!

mamerten - Antwort

The 2.5mm flathead doesn't fit the standoff screw. I used a 2mm flathead, but I had to be very carefully because it may be easy to slip.

Nicola Centrone - Antwort

A little sad that I don't have any flathead tips and missed that they were needed! Bah. Anyhow to make this standout even more? I have the iOpener with a decent assortment of tips so my overconfidence made me miss the requirement. Thanks.

Ian Deshotels - Antwort

Image 1/3: Versuche noch nicht die Logic Board Einheit vom hinteren Gehäuse zu entfernen; ein Kabel ist noch mit der Unterseite des Logic Boards verbunden. Image 2/3: Die Blitz-Einfassung ist am Blitz und am hinteren Gehäuse angebracht. Wenn sie am dem hinteren Gehäuse hängenbleibt, entferne sie mit einer Pinzette und setze sie zurück auf den Blitz. Image 3/3: ''Anmerkung: Wenn du dein Gerät wieder zusammenbaust, gehe sicher, dass das untere Interconnect-Kabel nicht unter dem Logic Board versteckt ist.''
  • Drehe die Logic Board Einheit Richtung der Akkuseite des hinteres Gehäuses.

  • Versuche noch nicht die Logic Board Einheit vom hinteren Gehäuse zu entfernen; ein Kabel ist noch mit der Unterseite des Logic Boards verbunden.

  • Die Blitz-Einfassung ist am Blitz und am hinteren Gehäuse angebracht. Wenn sie am dem hinteren Gehäuse hängenbleibt, entferne sie mit einer Pinzette und setze sie zurück auf den Blitz.

  • Anmerkung: Wenn du dein Gerät wieder zusammenbaust, gehe sicher, dass das untere Interconnect-Kabel nicht unter dem Logic Board versteckt ist.

When reassembling the logic board in the case make sure the logic board connector for the Power/Volume cable is not under the logic board.

John Mihalko - Antwort

I second John Mihalko's comment - when reassembling the logic board in the case, make sure the button assembly cable (from step 18) is not under the logic board. It was a bit annoying to almost get to the end of this repair only to find I had to go back and take the logic board back out again. Argh.

kmschlutow - Antwort

I've had to open this phone twice at distant intervals and I made this mistake both times. This should be included as a note, because it seems to be a common error.

joshuatobiasz - Antwort

Note: when reassembling your device, be sure that the lower interconnect cable is not tucked underneath the logic board.

Ohh yes. I made that mistake too. None of your buttons will work if it's tucked under.

cptrene - Antwort

See the yellow/orange circles? I thought I already remove it but it turns out I only remove the top screw. There's actually "another" screw in the "same" position, which is in disguise because it looks like a hole. It needs a rather small flat screw head to remove. I kept pulling the circuit board out but couldn't because I didn't know it. Be careful!

Hlung - Antwort

Lors du remontage il faut être vigilant à ce que le câble d'interconnexion inférieur ET !!! le câble d'ensemble de bouton (celui de l'étape 24) ne soient pas insérés en-dessous de la carte mère.

STCO - Antwort

Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Heble mit der Spitze eines Spudgers die Wi-Fi Antennen Kabelverbindung aus der Fassung auf der Unterseite des Logic Boards.

I didn't bother taking the antenna cable off the board. I just had it flexed back and worked on removing the camera with the cable still on. It's only two screws and one connector to swap the camera out. Found it a little fiddly disconnecting it so if you have trouble just leave it on and work with the slack.

matt - Antwort

  • Entferne die Logic Board Einheit vom hinteren Gehäuse.

  • Während sich das Logic Board außerhalb des Smartphones befindet, bewahre es auf einer geerdeten anti-statischen Matte auf, um jeglichen Schaden an der Schalttechnik zu vermeiden.

I believe there are three washers on the case side of the logic board that can come loose at this point.

Chris Dotson - Antwort

A note when putting it back together make sure that the antenna cable does not get stuck under the logic board.

anonymous 8623 - Antwort

what happens when the new logic board replaced?

phelunk - Antwort

Guys, there is no need to remove the logic board at all. Just disconnect battery, remove loudspeaker, and remove charge port. Boom.

Josh Bacon - Antwort

i agree with josh, if speaker seems to tight to get out then loosen a few of the bottom board screws...

Johnnyfixit - Antwort

Image 1/1: Eine 2,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube
  • Entferne die folgenden Schrauben, die den Lightning Anschluss und das Lautsprechergehäuse am hinteren Gehäuse befestigen:

    • Eine 2,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube

    • Zwei 3,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben

    • Eine 2,9 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube

    • Zwei 1,5 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben

    • Eine 2,8 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube

Every step after this one is vague and hard to understand. Seems to be a lot missing. Proceed with extreme caution!

Joe Wasser - Antwort

Image 1/3: Achte darauf, dass du mit dem Spudger unter das breite Flachbandkabel, das an der Einheit befestigt ist. Wenn du den Rest der Einheit weg vom Kabel hebelst, kann dieses reißen. Image 2/3: Achte darauf, dass du mit dem Spudger unter das breite Flachbandkabel, das an der Einheit befestigt ist. Wenn du den Rest der Einheit weg vom Kabel hebelst, kann dieses reißen. Image 3/3: Achte darauf, dass du mit dem Spudger unter das breite Flachbandkabel, das an der Einheit befestigt ist. Wenn du den Rest der Einheit weg vom Kabel hebelst, kann dieses reißen.
  • Benutze das flache Ende eines Spudgers, um vorsichtig den Lightning Anschluss und die Kabel des Lautsprechergehäuses vom hinteren Gehäuse nach oben zu hebeln.

  • Achte darauf, dass du mit dem Spudger unter das breite Flachbandkabel, das an der Einheit befestigt ist. Wenn du den Rest der Einheit weg vom Kabel hebelst, kann dieses reißen.

this is NOT the right way to remove the speaker, anyone following this guide will do unnecessary damage to the phone.

Speaker is one of the "official" serviceable part of iPhone 5. Which means you don't have to remove the logic board and the battery. Skip straight to step 27, peel up the home button contact flex, remove the red, blue, yellow and the green screw, peel loose the grounding flex stuck around the headphone jack, then remove the flex and the speaker as one part. NEVER remove the lightning connector flex unless you really need to.

Tom Chai - Antwort

I agree, there is no need to remove the battery or the main board, simply remove the two screws on the right hand side of the buzzer (the larger one on the right and smaller one by dock) and remove the screw next to the home button contact, the buzzer simply slides out, 5 minute job.

g4tch - Antwort

Heyi successfully took out this speaker and jack but i found 4 small rings and i dont know where they were placed

Shaiz Qadri - Antwort

Image 1/3: Achte darauf, die kleine metallene Dichtung am Lautsprechergehäuse und die vier kleinen metallenen Dichtungen unter den Schrauben des Lightning Anschlusses nicht zu verlieren. Image 2/3: Achte darauf, die kleine metallene Dichtung am Lautsprechergehäuse und die vier kleinen metallenen Dichtungen unter den Schrauben des Lightning Anschlusses nicht zu verlieren. Image 3/3: Achte darauf, die kleine metallene Dichtung am Lautsprechergehäuse und die vier kleinen metallenen Dichtungen unter den Schrauben des Lightning Anschlusses nicht zu verlieren.
  • Entferne den Lightning Anschluss und Lautsprechergehäuse vom hinteren Gehäuse.

  • Achte darauf, die kleine metallene Dichtung am Lautsprechergehäuse und die vier kleinen metallenen Dichtungen unter den Schrauben des Lightning Anschlusses nicht zu verlieren.

At this point I ended up with four (4) washers. I put back 3 under the two 1.5mm and the one 2.9mm screw but have no idea where the 4th should go.

Dirk - Antwort

What are the metal washers for?

Whatever - Antwort

Make sure to clean any bits of golden glue left on the phone case

andrewcilia - Antwort

i noticed that i broke tip of the loudspeaker cover flex under washer, and now my iphone won't turn on :(

mate - Antwort

Do you know where I can get these washers? I lost one in the disassembly process.

Scott - Antwort

The metal washers appear to have come from the bottom side of the lightning connector. Underneath the four screws. Two of mine were stuck on the old part that I had removed. I noticed this after installing the parts.

Rene Jeddore - Antwort

Any idea what is the strip which is stuck on the speaker, which helps connect the two screws? does it have any specific functionality or is it just to keep the speaker in place?

I see that it just connects two end points to the iphone body.

madhucherla - Antwort

That part is the cellular antenna. iPhone 5 Cellular Antenna

slessard -

After Removing Speaker and Lightning Assembly , please take care to remove plastic washers glued to case. Those are important because gives protection and some isolation from outside around the connectors and between bare speaker and case

luis - Antwort

I am trying to find these washers that go under the lightning connector as to where I can find an extra one of these for a repair and also need some help figuring out after replacing power cable, LCD and screen, lightning connector and both flex cables on the motherboard, the back case and the battery why the iPhone 5 is not charging or powering on... If you can help me figure out this issue I would greatly appreciate it.

Could one missing washer cause this to be the issue.

jweika - Antwort

Hi, I proceeded to the replacement of the microphone iphone 5 but now the voice is distant and muffled and the metal whaser I did not understand where I have to relocate. Can you help me?

Thank you

Fabio - Antwort

Image 1/2: Eine 2,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube Image 2/2: Eine 1,7 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube
  • Entferne die folgenden Schrauben, welche die Vibrationsbügel und den -motor am hinteren Gehäuse befestigen:

    • Eine 2,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube

    • Eine 1,7 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube

    • Eine 1,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube oben im hinteren Gehäuse

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Image 1/1:
  • Entferne den Vibratorbügel und den -motor vom hinteren Gehäuse.

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Image 1/2: Image 2/2:
  • Entferne die acht 1,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben, welche die Front Panel Clips an den Innenseiten des hinteren Gehäuses befestigen.

Don't accidentally remove the volume switch screws here. That comes later, and two of those screws are different from these and it's hard to tell them apart.

Chris Dotson - Antwort

hello guys,

i have recently encountered a problem with my iphone 5. the front panel is lifting away from the body of the phone and i can see the backlight assembly behind it. i figured the problem is from the front panel clips not holding the screen in place thus it is popping up. please if i have diagnosed it incorrectly and there is another cause for my problem, let me know.

for the time being, i am considering purchasing a used rear case on ifixit grade C as i only need the clips holding the screen in place. i want to make sure that the clips indeed come with the rear case when you purchase it, if not can someone please tell me where i can get them?

thanks in advance

sally96 - Antwort

Image 1/1:
  • Entferne die vier Front Panel Clips vom hinteren Gehäuse.

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Image 1/2: Ein 2,9 mm Abstandshalter Image 2/2: Diese Schraube hat ein  Phillips Bitmuster, aber wir finden, dass das beste Werkzeug dafür ein 2,5 mm Flachkopf-Schraubenzieher ist.
  • Entferne die folgenden Schrauben von der Metallklammer des Netzschalters zwischen dem hineren Blitz und den Kamerafenstern:

    • Ein 2,9 mm Abstandshalter

      • Diese Schraube hat ein Phillips Bitmuster, aber wir finden, dass das beste Werkzeug dafür ein 2,5 mm Flachkopf-Schraubenzieher ist.

    • Eine 1,6 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube

  • Entferne die metallene Klammer des Netzschalters.

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Image 1/2: Drehe die Abedeckung des Power Buttons mit der Spitze eines Spudgers an seinem Scharnier nach unten. Image 2/2: Drehe die Abedeckung des Power Buttons mit der Spitze eines Spudgers an seinem Scharnier nach unten.
  • Entferne die einzelne 1,9 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, welche die Klammer des Power Buttons an der inneren oberen Seite des hinteren Gehäuses festmacht.

  • Drehe die Abedeckung des Power Buttons mit der Spitze eines Spudgers an seinem Scharnier nach unten.

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Image 1/1:
  • Entferne den Power Button aus seiner Abdeckung im hinteren Gehäuse.

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Image 1/1:
  • Durücke die Power Button Abdeckung mit der Spitze eines Spudgers hinunter und hole sie aus ihrem Scharnier im hinteren Gehäuse.

How do you get the hinge out? the back housing i purchase does not have one. is it defected?

Henry T - Antwort

I have a fix for the missing Hinge. Obviously it was missing on my case too:)

Usually, with the kits you get a Sim Tray removal tool. The diameter was exactly right, so just break of about 4mm of the front part and use ist as hinge!

elbastito -

^^^That's what I did too!

isaac kovalyov -

You forgot the rubber bumper removal step before step 41:

iPhone 5 Power Button Replacement

Erez Carmel - Antwort

I have the same problem. The new back housing doesn't have a hinge. How can you remove the hinge from the old unit-any ideas??

Damian - Antwort

Okay, I managed to get it out. Used a hammer claw to pry out the housing around the pin. That got me about half-way there. Then carefully chisled a bit more away with hammer & nail. Finally was able to yank out the pin with tweezers. It was ugly, but the pin was undamaged and I could drop it right into new housing.

Damian - Antwort

my power bit want come off the hinge what can i do o solve this

Emily Bennett - Antwort

with a paper clip it can be fixed!

Eli “mochuELIn” E. T. - Antwort

Image 1/1: Eine 1,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube
  • Entferne folgende Schrauben, welchen den Lautstärkeregler und den Stummschalter an der Seite des hinteren Gehäuses befestigen:

    • Eine 1,3 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube

    • Zwei 1,8 mm Kreuzschlitzschrauben

Kommentar hinzufügen

Image 1/3: Entferne den Stummschalter und den Lautstärkeregler vom hinteren Gehäuse. Image 2/3: Entferne den Stummschalter und den Lautstärkeregler vom hinteren Gehäuse. Image 3/3: Entferne den Stummschalter und den Lautstärkeregler vom hinteren Gehäuse.
  • Heble das Tasten-Kabel von der Seitenwand des hinteren Gehäuses weg, um den Stummschalter und den Lautstärkeregler freizulegen.

  • Entferne den Stummschalter und den Lautstärkeregler vom hinteren Gehäuse.

On reassembly, test the slider switch to make sure it works properly before putting the whole thing back together. If the external switch doesn't fit on top of the actual switch, it looks right but won't move.

Chris Dotson - Antwort

Image 1/2: Entferne das Tasten-Kabel vom hinteren Gehäuse. Image 2/2: Entferne das Tasten-Kabel vom hinteren Gehäuse.
  • Heble das Tasten-Kabel mit dem flachen Ende eines Spudgers vom hinteren Gehäuse hoch.

  • Entferne das Tasten-Kabel vom hinteren Gehäuse.

Kommentar hinzufügen

Image 1/2: Entferne den SIM Karten Auswurfhebel. Image 2/2: Entferne den SIM Karten Auswurfhebel.
  • Entferne die einzelne 2,0 mm Kreuzschlitzschraube, die den SIM Karten Auswurfhebel am hinteren Gehäuse festmacht.

  • Entferne den SIM Karten Auswurfhebel.

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Image 1/1:
  • Das hintere Gehäuse bleibt übrig.

Phew that was long, but well done! Thanks!

Michael Payton - Antwort

Goodevening, I tried to turn on the iphone but would not turn on.

I tried to attach the charger and the iphone is turned on in recovery mode.

To start it I have to attach it to iTunes, and force the boot.

After the home button is the power button does not work.

What could have happened?

Emanuele Auriemma - Antwort

hello a lot of things could be your problem ( dead battery oxydation dock anything else ) try to take it out from recovery mode via tiny umbrella and come back

and dfu mode to restore your iphone

Sisyphe -

Hi Sisyphe, but the dock works very well. In order to boot the phone I had to force the boot with a small software who I had downloaded.

I don't know, because after to enter in the Iphone, the power and home buttons don't work.

I try to bring it in a assistance shop but they have not been able to fix it.

They hypothesized some problem in the motherboard (???)

I haven't idea...

Emanuele Auriemma - Antwort

The small plastic clips that sit around the charger and phone jack and over the speakers are still attached though! They are tricky to remove, but for the sake of completeness - could you add another step? The bottom of my phone looks weird now as I didn't notice until I'd completed the job!

Excellent instructions as always though - I'm really happy with the result!

chrisjbower - Antwort

When disassembling my iPhone5 I found a lever under the SIM card slot which is not mentioned or shown in any of the repair guides. Without the lever installed the SIM card slot will not open. I found this out when taking the phone about the lever and screw fell out of the device. I did not realize where it went back. Once I reassembled the device and could not get the SIM card to open I understood the significance of the part. Be sure to replace on reassembly.

mserleth - Antwort

What about the power button pin?!?!?!?!

joshuabuffington - Antwort

i just used a staple. I cut it down to the correct size and it is perfect. another thread said they cost around $20!

Send me your $20 ill make you one! lol

Krazy Kat - Antwort


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This guide does not describe removal of the wifi-antenna which seems to have taken place between step 32 and 34. For people new to electronics repair, such as myself, I feel this should be included in order to have a complete guide. I did a swap of the back casing yesterday myself, including the antenna and all went well (just a bit more nerve-wrecking removing parts not stated in the guide).

arvegrinden - Antwort

You're so right!

isaac kovalyov -

Replaced my rear case yesterday according to this guide, everything works :) just the power button pin was stuck on the old case and I had to make one from a paperclip, but still worked :)

robertscottyoravec - Antwort

can you fix an iPhone 5 into an iPhone 5 c Housing

stabme99 - Antwort

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