Introduction

We've been saying it for years: Any product that can have embedded electronics, will (eventually) have embedded electronics. Today we have a new cyborg hitting the teardown table: the Xiaomi MiJia QiCycle Folding Electric Bike. This is the first vehicle on our chopping block, so we’re excited to dive into a whole new class of device. Has Xiaomi managed to make the ever-repairable bicycle smarter, without making it a nightmare for DIY tinkering? Let's get rolling on this teardown and find out!

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This teardown is not a repair guide. To repair your MiJia QiCycle Folding Electric Bike, use our service manual.

Look at you, little mobile friend. Quite stylish from the outside we take a look at the specs: 250 W, 36 V high-speed motor M108RL from Ananda 0.21 kWh battery (with 20 NCR18650PF Li-ion cells)
  • Look at you, little mobile friend. Quite stylish from the outside we take a look at the specs:

    • 250 W, 36 V high-speed motor M108RL from Ananda

    • 0.21 kWh battery (with 20 NCR18650PF Li-ion cells)

    • 45 km of biking power on a single charge

    • Shimano Nexus 3-speed gear hub

    • Torque measurement sensor adjusts power based on your pedaling

    • Trip computer combined with controller to provide real-time stats for speed, distance, power etc.

Für Europa mit nur 75kg Traglast nicht zu verkaufen.

Gerhard Hallermayer - Reply

  • Before we get started. Did we mention that this thing is foldable?

  • With a few simple movements it can be folded from ready-to-ride to compact-for-transport.

    • Even with a hub motor and battery, the QiCycle masses only 14.5 kg. That's about two dachshunds, or three cats.

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For those of you not familiar with foldable electric bikes, here's another, the classic, yet analogue Brompton folding bicycle,  for comparison. (It's a bit more macro than our usual comparisons.) The QiCycle has a smaller wheelbase (870 mm) with smaller tires (16"). The fixed handlebar and saddle max out lower too (bad news, riders over 5'6"/170 cm). The built-in bike computer can switch between four power modes and monitors real-time riding data. (And a smartphone app has a ton of info, too).
  • For those of you not familiar with foldable electric bikes, here's another, the classic, yet analogue Brompton folding bicycle, for comparison. (It's a bit more macro than our usual comparisons.)

    • The QiCycle has a smaller wheelbase (870 mm) with smaller tires (16"). The fixed handlebar and saddle max out lower too (bad news, riders over 5'6"/170 cm).

  • The built-in bike computer can switch between four power modes and monitors real-time riding data. (And a smartphone app has a ton of info, too).

I bought one of this but how can i change LCD language from chinese to english?

parhamsameni - Reply

Stessa domanda come si aggiorna a inflese

. Dolcclod - Reply

Enough talk, lets strip this vehicle down starting with the easiest part: the saddle. Two quick-release clamps later it's free! The seat post locks the rear rocker arm in place, so once removed the bike can fold up. The post is labeled with min and max height options, and has a groove along the back. The groove serves to align the post and keeps it from twisting, all bikes should have it!
  • Enough talk, lets strip this vehicle down starting with the easiest part: the saddle. Two quick-release clamps later it's free!

  • The seat post locks the rear rocker arm in place, so once removed the bike can fold up.

    • The post is labeled with min and max height options, and has a groove along the back. The groove serves to align the post and keeps it from twisting, all bikes should have it!

  • Next unscrew the fancy folding pedals. This mechanism reduces the overall width of the bike when folded.

    • Brompton bikes have had (even fancier) folding pedals for awhile now. Xiaomi may have sought some inspiration there.

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The chain runs outside the rear rocker swing, and has a handy rear chain stretcher, making removal pretty simple. The chainring has 52 sprockets whereas the rear hub gear counts 14 sprockets. That gives us a ratio of 1:2.7 in first gear, 1:3.7 in second gear and 1:5 in third gear. The chain itself has 96 links. There's no master link for opening the chain but a standard chain tool can pop out any link.
  • The chain runs outside the rear rocker swing, and has a handy rear chain stretcher, making removal pretty simple.

  • The chainring has 52 sprockets whereas the rear hub gear counts 14 sprockets. That gives us a ratio of 1:2.7 in first gear, 1:3.7 in second gear and 1:5 in third gear.

  • The chain itself has 96 links. There's no master link for opening the chain but a standard chain tool can pop out any link.

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Taking the crank arms off takes a little preparation, a cover must be removed before you can fit the crank puller on. But after that it pops out like any other bike's crank. The next piece of the power conveyance puzzle is the bottom bracket. Again we need a standard bike tool—the cartridge bottom bracket tool—to loosen this piece of hardware.
  • Taking the crank arms off takes a little preparation, a cover must be removed before you can fit the crank puller on. But after that it pops out like any other bike's crank.

  • The next piece of the power conveyance puzzle is the bottom bracket.

  • Again we need a standard bike tool—the cartridge bottom bracket tool—to loosen this piece of hardware.

    • These tools may sound unusual, but they are very common for bike repair and maintenance. Good choice to stay standard, Xiaomi!

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A nice feature for the QiCycle is this Shimano Nexus 3-speed hub. We easily dismount the bellcrank and take out the bolt which runs to the inside of the hub. When dismantling the hub, the bike should be in 3rd gear. To adjust it, 2nd gear is the right one. At the opposite end of the bike, we pull off the rubber handle and remove the shifter grip.
  • A nice feature for the QiCycle is this Shimano Nexus 3-speed hub. We easily dismount the bellcrank and take out the bolt which runs to the inside of the hub.

    • When dismantling the hub, the bike should be in 3rd gear. To adjust it, 2nd gear is the right one.

  • At the opposite end of the bike, we pull off the rubber handle and remove the shifter grip.

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The rear wheel has a hub roller brake, a style of drum brake. It is operated by hand brake lever so you can backpedal freely. This is an interesting choice, while it keeps the brakes protected from the elements, they are more likely to skid and overheat on long downhills. In the long run, these brakes should be nearly maintenance-free and only require some lubrication from time to time. We start to fish out the brake cable, but it looks like it's riveted to the hub assembly, and will stay attached at that end.
  • The rear wheel has a hub roller brake, a style of drum brake. It is operated by hand brake lever so you can backpedal freely.

    • This is an interesting choice, while it keeps the brakes protected from the elements, they are more likely to skid and overheat on long downhills. In the long run, these brakes should be nearly maintenance-free and only require some lubrication from time to time.

  • We start to fish out the brake cable, but it looks like it's riveted to the hub assembly, and will stay attached at that end.

  • So we loosen the bolt holding the hub to the frame and lift out the 16" wheel with its 28 spokes, 3-gear hub and roller brake, and its trailing brake cable...

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Of course we wouldn't be tearing this bike down if it weren't a smart bike. So it's about time we check out the speed sensor. The cable connects under the seat then runs along the frame to the (modular) dropout. We're able to peel the cable out, and free the sensor assembly.
  • Of course we wouldn't be tearing this bike down if it weren't a smart bike. So it's about time we check out the speed sensor.

  • The cable connects under the seat then runs along the frame to the (modular) dropout.

  • We're able to peel the cable out, and free the sensor assembly.

    • The sensor system package that measures the crank torque of the cyclist is either the IDbike TMM4 or something very similar.

The TMM4 sensor is used JUST to measure crank torque and NOT to detect speed that is measured directly from the sensors inside the motor

diego - Reply

Black Friday
Broken doesn't stand a chance.
Pushing out the small circuit board, we get to the meat of this miracle measurer: A 1820A programmable linear hall sensor This takes advantage of the Hall effect to track the wheel as it turns, using that to determine how fast you're traveling (and how hard you're working).
  • Pushing out the small circuit board, we get to the meat of this miracle measurer:

  • The three wire system is connected with a simple JST connector, not solder. Now that's what we call modular.

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Back to something more mechanical we unmount the front brake—a standard dual-pivot side-pull caliper brake. To find more electronic components we aim for the front wheel with its hub gear motor. A simple tug disconnects the hub motor cable so we can finally take out the front wheel.
  • Back to something more mechanical we unmount the front brake—a standard dual-pivot side-pull caliper brake.

  • To find more electronic components we aim for the front wheel with its hub gear motor.

  • A simple tug disconnects the hub motor cable so we can finally take out the front wheel.

    • All told, it weighs 2.65 kg, that's nearly 20% of the bike's entire weight.

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With the cover lid unscrewed we can push out the source of rotary motion and discover a small circular board behind the rear cover of the motor. Besides distributing power it also has three sensors (every fourth coil) for measuring the speed. 12 coils on the outer ring  make the 10 magnets on the center spindle go round and round–260 times per minute. The motor has a continuous output power of 180W and 7.3 Nm of torque.
  • With the cover lid unscrewed we can push out the source of rotary motion and discover a small circular board behind the rear cover of the motor.

  • Besides distributing power it also has three sensors (every fourth coil) for measuring the speed.

    • 12 coils on the outer ring make the 10 magnets on the center spindle go round and round–260 times per minute. The motor has a continuous output power of 180W and 7.3 Nm of torque.

  • The three gears on the flip side are made of plastic to keep abrasion to a minimum.

Ist der Hersteller des Motors bekannt bzw. nach dem Öffnen zu Erkennen ?

Kann es sein, dass der Motor hergestellt wird von:

Changzhou Huayu Xinfeng Motor Co.ltd ?

Joerg Bucher - Reply

Hallo Joerg, den Hersteller des Motors konnten wir bislang noch nicht herausfinden. Die Aufgedruckte Nummer am Motor gab auch keinen Aufschluss über die genaue Herkunft (MV8536VN2C5AN16GF2648). Huayu Xinfeng Motor Co.ltd stellt einige verschiedene Motoren her, jedoch habe ich auf den ersten Blick diesen Motor nicht darunter entdeckt.

Tobias Isakeit -

我想去除电机的耗电和前轮电机产生的摩擦阻力,只使用电池来显示时间、速度以及车灯的使用,这个怎么操作?

I want to remove the power consumption of the motor and the friction resistance of the front wheel motor. I only use batteries to show time, speed and the use of lights. How does this work?

MainRoad - Reply

Please I'm not quite get how to open the hub motor, I've already unscrew 3 screw on the cover lid, still the hub not open, please help.

Bayu Oktaviantino - Reply

Please I'm not quite get how to open the hub motor, I've already unscrew 3 screw on the cover lid, still the hub not open, please help.

MainRoad - Reply

And now, welcome to the middle of the teardown. We stripped the QiCycle of most of its bike parts. The aluminum skeleton we are left with weighs 5.5 kg which is over a third of the overall weight. We go ahead and pull the main plug from the top tube, enabling us to extract the nervous system linking all the electronic components.
  • And now, welcome to the middle of the teardown.

  • We stripped the QiCycle of most of its bike parts. The aluminum skeleton we are left with weighs 5.5 kg which is over a third of the overall weight.

  • We go ahead and pull the main plug from the top tube, enabling us to extract the nervous system linking all the electronic components.

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Only 4 Torx screws hold the cover of the bike computer and the 160×128 pixel TFT screen is attached with a simple ZIF connector. On the flip side of the board we find the following chips: MediaTek MT6261A ARM processor
  • Only 4 Torx screws hold the cover of the bike computer and the 160×128 pixel TFT screen is attached with a simple ZIF connector.

  • On the flip side of the board we find the following chips:

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We saved the best, or at least the most power-ful, for last—the battery tube! The tube can be removed single-handedly, with just the push of a button, and can be charged in 3 hours with the 5-pin connection on the side. A good amount of the bike's weight is this battery—it weighs 1.46 kg, fully charged of course. ;)
  • We saved the best, or at least the most power-ful, for last—the battery tube!

  • The tube can be removed single-handedly, with just the push of a button, and can be charged in 3 hours with the 5-pin connection on the side.

  • A good amount of the bike's weight is this battery—it weighs 1.46 kg, fully charged of course. ;)

  • The bike's battery capacity measures in at 5800mAh (208.8Wh). For your pointless comparison of the day, that's more than 5 iPad Pro 12.9"!

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We begin to pry out the rear light, a cable keeps it in place, but it does give us access to some hidden screws. This in turn grants us access to the internals. This massive umbilical leads from the charging port to the batteries and the BMS (Battery Management System) at the other end, and an LED board behind the rear light. We peel out said circuit board and discover some secrets. This guy controls the rear LED array, as well as some status LEDs along the top of the tube (probably to indicate battery activity).
  • We begin to pry out the rear light, a cable keeps it in place, but it does give us access to some hidden screws. This in turn grants us access to the internals.

  • This massive umbilical leads from the charging port to the batteries and the BMS (Battery Management System) at the other end, and an LED board behind the rear light.

  • We peel out said circuit board and discover some secrets. This guy controls the rear LED array, as well as some status LEDs along the top of the tube (probably to indicate battery activity).

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The main battery compartment is a tough nut to crack. Five screws (hidden by some hard to pry off covers) aren't all that hold this case together. As we finally succeed with some gentle heating and "good vibrations" we snap open the case, breaking one-time-use clips in the process. Bad news for battery cell replacements. We finally reach the prize: 20 Panasonic NCR18650PF Li-Ion batteries! Panasonic is a good (safe) brand, so recharging should be a breeze, even if individual replacement won't be.
  • The main battery compartment is a tough nut to crack. Five screws (hidden by some hard to pry off covers) aren't all that hold this case together.

  • As we finally succeed with some gentle heating and "good vibrations" we snap open the case, breaking one-time-use clips in the process. Bad news for battery cell replacements.

  • We finally reach the prize: 20 Panasonic NCR18650PF Li-Ion batteries! Panasonic is a good (safe) brand, so recharging should be a breeze, even if individual replacement won't be.

    • The battery pack also has a battery management system (BMS) circuit board.

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The board is packed with lots of resistors. What sticks out are these components: An ATMEL MEGA 328P Battery Management MCU
  • The board is packed with lots of resistors. What sticks out are these components:

    • An ATMEL MEGA 328P Battery Management MCU

    • S11428 33TVF

    • FL12.000 12 MHz quartz crystal oscillator

  • On the flip side we find these:

    • Magnachip MDU1931 single n-channel trench MOSFET (x4)

    • RS2M rectifier

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We return to the bike's body to do a bit more disassembly before tackling the final electronics. The bike's main hinge—the rear swing fork—is held to the top tube with a simple Allen bolt. When detached from the frame we can clearly see the tilted asymmetric hinge.
  • We return to the bike's body to do a bit more disassembly before tackling the final electronics.

  • The bike's main hinge—the rear swing fork—is held to the top tube with a simple Allen bolt.

  • When detached from the frame we can clearly see the tilted asymmetric hinge.

    • This unique shape allows it to stay in line with the bike when riding, but swing right next to the front wheel when folded.

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The second important compact-ifier is the foldable handle bar and stem. The mechanism itself is cool, and comes easily apart with the pull of a pin. To take the front fork off the hinge, we make use of the uncommon, but essential, 10 mm allen key, an essential for bike repairs. The front fork is cast as one single part of aluminum and weighs just 0.71 kg, that's not much more than a soccer ball!
  • The second important compact-ifier is the foldable handle bar and stem. The mechanism itself is cool, and comes easily apart with the pull of a pin.

  • To take the front fork off the hinge, we make use of the uncommon, but essential, 10 mm allen key, an essential for bike repairs.

    • The front fork is cast as one single part of aluminum and weighs just 0.71 kg, that's not much more than a soccer ball!

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What's left is the top tube, complete with the headlight and the brain (more on that later). This aluminum center piece weighs only 1.36 kg! With a firm twist of the hand we can unlock the headlight and take it out of its recess.
  • What's left is the top tube, complete with the headlight and the brain (more on that later).

    • This aluminum center piece weighs only 1.36 kg!

  • With a firm twist of the hand we can unlock the headlight and take it out of its recess.

  • A single cable with a simple connector keeps this high-powered LED well... powered.

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The brain control unit is mounted to a handy handle that attaches to the frame with two simple screws. Having removed the screws,  we can grab the controller unit by the guide rail and slide it right out. This bike's brain is a single unit electric bike controller by Ananda, a manufacturer of many electric bike components.
  • The brain control unit is mounted to a handy handle that attaches to the frame with two simple screws.

  • Having removed the screws, we can grab the controller unit by the guide rail and slide it right out.

  • This bike's brain is a single unit electric bike controller by Ananda, a manufacturer of many electric bike components.

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  • Of course "single unit" doesn't mean much to us, we dive in past some standard Phillips screws, and work on prying the stubborn casing open.

    • We grab a Jimmy and iFixit Opening Tools and try to negotiate–without any success, even when heated.

  • We turn our efforts to the side panel, and what we found inside will shock you (people always fall for that, right?)

  • Three boards—bridged by an army of pins—are drowned in gobs of yellowish transparent rubber.

    • We suppose this is to dampen vibration and help dissipate heat to the aluminum casing.

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Most of the important components live on the battery pin board, we spy: STM32100C8 micro controller with an ARM Cortex-M3 32-bit RISC core MCP2003 LIN J2602 Transceiver
  • Most of the important components live on the battery pin board, we spy:

  • The rest of the goop-covered boards mostly carry capacitors and other passive components.

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And with that, this bike has been folded, unfolded, and torn totally down.
  • And with that, this bike has been folded, unfolded, and torn totally down.

    • Except for the boring bike bits—we're only here for the "electric" parts after all.

  • This layout might be a bit bigger than usual, feel free to take a closer look.

Nice job, I've just received one of these and am much happier with my purchase after learning about the inside of this sweet ride. Thanks!

Del Riordan - Reply

Final Thoughts
  • Standard bicycle components and tools are used throughout, making repair more accessible.
  • The battery assembly can be removed and replaced with ease.
  • The electronic components can be removed without compromising the bike, extending its life and making recycling easier.
  • The seatpost, frame, and front hub motor are nonstandard, making a replacement a bit more difficult when the manufacturer does not offer them.
  • The battery pack is a complex assembly that makes for wasteful replacement when individual components fail.
Repairability Score
6
Repairability 6 out of 10
(10 is easiest to repair)

37 Comments

My axiomi qicycle seat post keeps slipping down despite locking d 2 release clamps tightly. Caused a fall from d bike as d seat post slipped and hit d ground jamming d moving bike. How to tighten d 2 clamps to ensure no slippage especially cycling at a higher speed?

Thanks

Zho - Reply

The quick release clamps can be adjusted by using the bolt on the opposite side of the handle and tightened by closing the handle. The QiCycle is constructed for max 100kg weight. You may also try cleaning the seat post for a better grip (maybe it got a little greasy during the assembly).

Tobias Isakeit -

I am wondering if the two saddle clamps can be replaced. And if so where to find them? Help very much appreciated :).

Jannes - Reply

The saddle clamps should be replaceable with standard quick release clamps of the correct size. Depending on the design the handle might not be curved like the original one and therefore stand off a little bit.

Tobias Isakeit -

Thank you for all the pictures. Unfortunately after a drop of the battery my taillight is not switching on anymore. Do you have detailed pictures of the disassembly of the taillight. Maybe it is only a connector that is loose... Thank you :)

Montie - Reply

Hi Montie, we don't have a separate guide for the back light yet. But to get it off, you need to grab it very tight and turn it counter-clockwise. The rest can be seen on the pictures in step 16 (four screws and the cables inside).

Tobias Isakeit -

Hi Tobias, thanks for the fast reply. I know how to get to the connectors (thanks to your good illustration) but I need to get *into* the light because the connectors which are visible seem to be okay. Obviously I have to peel the red plastic off which is not clipped but sealed. The back (black part) of the light is one single plastic part if I see this right. Any further help would be nice. Should I use a knife? I don"t want to destroy anything...

Montie - Reply

Hi Montie, getting into the light itself without "destroying" it looks quite impossible I guess (we haven't tried it). The light looks as if it is sealed from both sides, front and back.

Tobias Isakeit -

Hi!

My Charger seems to be dead. Even LED Indicator wont light up and it doesnt charge the bike. Do u have any advice or guide to open it up, or to work the batteryside connector onto another fitting charger?!

Thx

Andreas P - Reply

Hi Andreas, unfortunately we haven’t torn down the charger itself. Charging the battery via other means sounds like an experiment I would not recommend unless you know what you are doing.

Tobias Isakeit -

Someone knows how to bypass/remove/change 20km/h speed limit ?

Thanks in advance

Diego

diego - Reply

There is a firmware update. It came automatically to me via the app. I mean I was asked within the app whether I wanted to upgrade the firmware that would lead to 25km/h.

bill depo -

Just FYI: firmware update seems to be possible only by using an Android device, not iOS.

Andrew S. -

I didn’t get any update firmware . what’s the last software version indicated in bicycle info in the app?

Ali Titan -

What does the Max speed mean?

If I'm pedaling quicker than 20km/h then the engine will not help me to reach 30?

Is there mode how can I ride 20km/h without pedaling?

dannique XXII -

Hello,

I just get this bike and I’m very happy with the quality of the model! Your tutorial is great and very clear, I will not hesitate to consult it if needed.

I have one question for you :

I’m 1,85m tall and I have to put the seat at its maximum position in height but that’s fine. The problem comes from the handle which is a bit low.

Do you know if it could be replaced by a foldable adjustable handlebar ? I’ve seen some on the market, and it would solve this issue.

Thanks for your amazing work.

Léo

Mourey Leonard - Reply

Yes, it is possible, something like https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Aluminum...

Although the original stem has much better quality, so I ended up just adding this adapter to make the stem longer: https://www.amazon.com/TranzX-Alloy-Twin...

Andrew S. -

I have another important concern :

My electric motor is not working on my Qicycle.

When I use the different modes with the pushbutton, I’m not feeling any help from the assistance of the motor. The battery works properly, as well as the on-board computer that displays correctly : the battery level, the current speed, the power in Watt and the assistant mode.

The application shows the message : "One issue found : please check the motor line on the left of the front wheel”

I don’t know how to proceed to fix this. Can you help ?

Thank you

Mourey Leonard - Reply

You may want to check the cable on the left hand side of the fork if it is connected properly (see second picture in step 11).

Regarding the height problem in your other comment I’m sorry to tell you that the bike is designed for people under 170cm. The seat post and handle bar post are non-standard components and don’t look like they can be replaced with longer versions.

Tobias Isakeit -

This is not true, there are 3 options:

1) Replace the stem with telescopic one

2) Add the stem adapter https://www.amazon.com/TranzX-Alloy-Twin...

3) Replace the handlebar with curved one

Andrew S. -

Please I'm not quite get how to open the hub motor, I've already unscrew 3 screw on the cover lid, still the hub not open, please help.

Bayu Oktaviantino - Reply

у меня такая же проблема. кажется, что корпус является монолитным. это не так, как там покрыть возможные отвинтите.

Leonid Kazarin -

The lid sits very tight. Try to get a grip through the three holes (for example with two allen wrenches) and turn counterclockwise. (Caution: the lids edge is very sharp)

Tobias Isakeit -

What did you use to open the lid Tobi?

Are you using three allen wrench?

Bayu Oktaviantino -

I used two allen wrenches (short part in the holes long part along the axis) and used the axis as pivot point.

Tobias Isakeit -

Is there a way to buy a battery pack for this bike ? I need one desperately …

Miguel Fonseca - Reply

La bici mi é arrivata con il display del computer di bordo scheggiato,infranto il display una volta acceso non é leggibile.

Come posso ovviare a questo? È sostituibile con un nuovo display?Dove posso trovarlo?

Grazie

Agostino - Reply

The chain jumped down while I went uphill and only low engine support. How can I avoid this in the future?

Jürgen Weißmann (7ii) - Reply

Hi Jürgen, check the spring on the rear chain stretcher (see step 5). This should provide enough tension for the chain to not jump.

Tobias Isakeit -

Hello,

What kind of axel and nuts does the front fork have ?

Is it M10 nuts ?

Thank you

Mourey Leonard - Reply

Hi Mourey, I used a size 19 wrench, so its probably M12.

Tobias Isakeit -

hi! great teardown! do you know the dimensions and weight of the batterypack? i'm planning to buy the bike in china and then send the pack in mail, since its not allowed to take the battery in your suitcase or carry-on in airplane.

maurits irizarri van suchtelen - Reply

Hi maurits, the battery pack itself is 46 x 7 x 7 cm (±0.5cm ;) ), weight is 1.46 kg.

Tobias Isakeit -

Thanks! If its not too much trouble, do you know the size of the bike when folded and the saddle removed? To See if i can fit it in a suitcase without completely taking it apart.

maurits irizarri van suchtelen -

Spiegazione al di sopra di ogni aspettativa. Una pecca, manca la spiegazione su come installare la lingua inglese essendo tutto in cinese.

. Dolcclod - Reply

help: I update the firmware with android and now the qicycle go fast to 26 km/h, but the led light rear don’t works more!, instead before it’s ok, also the computer on board don’t read the status of the battery, plase help me!! also other peaple have the same problem…

francesco Villeggia - Reply

I have a problem.

When my bike is off, suddenly the engine on for a second and the wheel turns.

This happens more time for a day. Where is the problem? In the controller or in the computer?

Thank you.

Fabio - Reply

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