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I use a small flat screw driver to move the paste around. I use a thermal paste that is inside a tube (same as a tooth paste one) and with the edge of the screw driver's flat end I take a small amount and place it in the middle of the CPU. Then with the the same flat screw driver I move the paste around as if I would mix it on a pancake...and ensure I don't cross the square...sort of creating a circle and have enough thickness for it to communicate.
I use this screw driver only for thermal paste. Then at the end I clean it with a paper towel. Nobody ever got messy from it: neither I nor my employees
Any 70% or up Isopropyl alcohol will do the trick in removing the paste.
I use those cotton ear sticks to clean the paste off. You can find this bottle in pretty much any dollar or drug/pharmacy store.
I don't use ArctiClean Thermal Material Remover because is way too expensive and is hard to get it shipped (simply put: too much hassle). Go with whats available in your country and what is effective: alcohol.
70% is enough and does the trick for me. I used the entire bottler for the whole year. you can tell after when the platter is shining or not. you can use 90% or 99%. My dollar store did not have that at the time. But I agree, the higher the %, the faster the removal. It doesnt leave behind residue, it is the humans that leave the residue because they forgot to clean it all out. usually you apply a bit of pressure (as if you were painting). With 70% it never ever left any residue…but i did however wasted 1-2 more minutes as the job is longer to clean it due to the less amount of alcohol.
You can use any solvent you want as long as it has non-toxic or corrosive elements to damage the platter or circuit of the processor. The idea is to take away and clean off the old thermal paste…NOT TO DISSOLVE IT. You cannot dissolve it in the air. You need to firstly take it out/off the processor’s platter. Usually the reason behind a thermal paste removal is either because it is very old and is dry or sticky, or it was tested and added new thermal paste and now it needs another round of thermal paste added. And…yes, it is hard to find. Maybe $5USD is not expensvive for you, but mine costed 1$ Canadian…way cheaper than 5$ US. With 5$USD I can buy 5 bottles of 70%-99% isopropyl. Whats the point in throwing out 4$ for.
1) This macbook model is usually (Retina, Early 2015) and is 12” in size.
2) when connecting to the low-voltage power, I suggest you to test the power before starting the repair and see if it powers ok from the small 5v adapter (if your screen display is not completely shattered or black and/or see anything at all)
3) Follow one more step: Step 36 (optional)
Ensure at the very end to swap the cable adapter from the original (broken) display assembly to the new display assembly. If it did not come with it. Mine did not. You may need use a double-sided tape (additionally) in order hold onto the cable’s side portion and clean off the old adhesive underneath it. This is a very tiny portion…like the size of a bean. If you don’t have any thin double-sided tape is not the end of the world. however it is ideal for the cable to stay fit and not to get tangled during other movements.
There are 3 not 2 flat-top connectors for the 3rd step/picture. The 3rd connector is actually right underneath the 2nd one.
I don't use ArctiClean Thermal Material Remover because is way too expensive and is hard to get it shipped (simply put: too much hassle).
He is talking about spring between the end of the screw. You could break those if you tighten them. So he is right...from the factory or not...it is us the humans that will tighten them not the factory anymore.
So he wanted to say: when you tighten screws with springs be careful not to break the springs due tou pressure between the aluminum heat sink and the screw
this is a NO step. This should be removed and not to confuse people. There is no need in removing this cable. If you do, the fan will be loud and will have side-effects. I am warning everyone to stay away from this step and jump to or replace this step with STEP 20 instead.
Also steps 18 and 19 should not exist either. There should be only STEP 20...remove the entire lock plastic piece that holds together the cable sensor and the sponge with it. That is all you need to and takes you 10 seconds...even using a flat screw driver will do the trick as long as you are not aggressive type and pinch hard on the surface of the hard drive but to the plastic lock piece.
Good luck...you can do it if I did it.
you dont need step 18 and 19. if you remove that sponge then you will need adhesive to put it back after. Just take the whole thing out...no need to remove the thermal sensor cable from the lock piece. Don't complicate things and waste your time. remove the lock piece at once and it will hold both the cable and the sponge that is glued on the top. 5-10 seconds...job done.
Also...refrain from removing the thermal cable at the other end's socket. leave it in there...again...guys...we are just changing a hard drive....don't complicate things because then the sensor will not detect properly and the fan will spin very loud and will not stop.
its up to you...if you have time and want to do the job twice, then you know what to do.
found out that taking the 2 inverter cables (top right corner underneath LCD) and mixing them will not work. I got beeping sound. So...you really need to mark the 2 white sockets with P (pink) and B (for light blue-gray color). Then everything will come out smoothly. Again... inserting the 2 inverter cable sets into the right socket DOES MATTER.
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