i have had this happen on a iPhone 5 and a iPhone 5s now, the phone is completely dead and wont turn on. tried every cable...

first off we are a repair shop and have repaired thousand of i pads and i being the lead technician want answers ,this is...

you only need 3 things to get touch id to work 1. the orignal home button that the phone came with 2.a good cable (via home button and cable running from mobo to home button.) 3. good chip on mother board (because home button is paired with main chip from factory) i have seen the cables go bad most often, even new ones can be bad from factory, or manufacture, ie china's poor quality control. so i would try a couple new cables that run from the mother board to home button flex. also check home button as well some times the plastic connector breaks on the inside and will cause that issue too, but if you use the new itunes with new os download you should not get error 53 unless chip failure cause they have removed error 53 on new ios versions do to class action lawsuits. thanks apple lmao also if you have iphone 6s the cable is built into back-light housing and will cause this as well, only thing you can do on that is get another replacement screen, or swap back-light housings but that repair is expert only,...

yes after doing some more search i found same thing a faulty u2 ic charging circuit. i did a hot air reflow to the chip and it seems to be working so far. i may have to re do the reflow with some flux but i think it may be ok. it has started to charge normally and is now recognizing dead batteries and charging them. at about 1 amp charge witch is pretty normal. also for any one looking at this post the u2 chips on a iphone 5 is located on the top side under the metal service panel near sim card tray, and the 5s it is on the back side under the metal service panel near top left side of the lower mount hole of motherboard close to the mobo antenna, i was working with a 5s this time so i just cut a medium size hole in panel and reflowed the chip with hot air. i would recommend using flux if you have it, and to let it cool down all the way atleast 30 mins, also if you do use flux then clean it up to best u can. thanks guys

water damage is very tricky, you might consider a cleaning solution versus alcohol, also if it was salt water warm water mixed the the highest percentage alcohol works well. but i would also agree on replacing the battery with a oem battery and removing all service panels on mother board to access all of the board that could be water logged still.

it sounds like you checked everything right. i would do 2 more things. 1. make a hirens boot disk or windows disk or usb and boot to mini xp or boot from windows disk and see if the track pad works in there. if it does then you know that you have a software issue. 2, if not then i would order a replacement track pad and replace it cause that should point you towards a hardware issues. p.s. swollen batteries on macs usually cause the glass track pad to crack or be raised cause the battery is right under neath the track pad on most models and is completely unrelated to asus or other manf. designs. dont go out and by a battery cause it will not fix your issue

i too had the same issue. i replaced the glass and tore the wifi antenna and power flex by accident. after replacing everything and putting new glass on. no 2.4 ghz wifi or spotty at best. so i opened it back up and tried another antenna same thing. so i thought maybe the wifi logic board was bad like described in the post so i ordered another one and still no fix. after taking another look i soft reset the ipad and waited for it to boot up again and shut the ipad down again immediately. waited for it to turn off and took an exacto knife and cleaned the metal frame were the three contact points meet the frame on the wifi antenna and replaced the antenna again. after all was said and done ipad wifi working better then ever. hope this helps

as far as what i can tell it is located internally under the left lower side of the keyboard and track pad. the laptop will have to be opened to access the battery cable.

first off yes it will fix the issue if it is not hardware related to anything else in the phone. to answer the question of if it will happen again. that will depend on what is causing the boot loop, majority of the time boot loops can be fixed with out changing the whole mobo or motherboard. i personally have not had any boot loop issue with my unlocked att lg g4 and it is my daily user phone. can you give us more info? 1. any damage or drops? 2. any attempts at rooting or was it rooted? 3. any software mods? 4. any recent changes in temperature of the phone or any kind of changes, cases or battery swap, etc etc?

you have one of a couple things going on...... 1. check the speaker grill and see if there is anything blocking the speaker, aka dirt, lint, etc, etc 2. open the phone and check the speaker it self, if it looks damaged or is falling apart replace it. 3. possible software or mother\logic board issue, you can test this by ordering a replacement speaker and replacing it. if the issue still priests after replacing the speaker, you may have a larger issue like a software or mother\logic board. if you live or use the phone in high humidity area it is very possible that your speaker is bad we see it all the time.